Something to know about CrMoly / 4130 for those at home. The material isn't lighter per volume, it is stronger allowing one to move to a thinner wall saving weight.
Excellent video on a great topic! I have a spreadsheet of upgrades and I sort them on a $/lb reduced to guide me on paid upgrades. Very helpful to gauge effectiveness of parts. One $300 kirkey vs 2 oem buckets saved 90lbs in an A body.
I had a 70 Chevy station wagon I bought it for the motor and Trans, but after a marriage ending argument , I know we were over but life moves forward , I took out my issues gutting the wagon it went from 5800 lbs to 2850 with me in it for super Chevy, I did race it as well , I became known for huge burnouts , people from the track started giving me tires to melt. All of this allowed me to calm down , as I was dismantling my life , I sold everything I owned and was left with tools and a Chevy pickup, tough to do but it saved my life. My 2nd wife passed in 2020. Life is strange as I'm now getting that pickup ready to race this season , with my second wife's daughter as driver,
BoostedBoiz Kyle found this out. He stripped down his Tesla Plaid and ended up taking out so much weight that traction became VERY difficult to find at lower speeds. His car went from about 4,600 pounds down to around 3,900 pounds. Then, because he took out body panels too, his aero got horribly worse so his 1/4 mile times didn’t really get much faster. You can’t decrease weight AND make aero worse and think that you are going to go faster. The location the weight comes off of matters as well. If you have a rear wheel drive vehicle, if you take off a lot of weight in the back then it could negatively affect traction. Sorry if you covered all of this in the video. I’m typing this while listening to it.
Yeah. We didn't really cover traction. I'm most cases, losing weight in the car won't be a factor to traction. Kyle's problem is he can't get a decent tire on the car, as well as the factory traction control wrecking havoc.
If you're looking for more information/research on DI engines in general, maybe start looking into the VW/Audi area. They started with DI engine tuning in 2005? and figured out a lot of the basics.
It's been awhile but back in the 80's & 90's I was helping a couple guys with their cars. One a 72 Vega with a 12 bolt GM 4.88 rear, a 383 SBC around 500+ HP, turbo 400, full cage. (home built by somebody else) He still had the stock steel hood and hinges with a velocity stack sticking through it. I could never get the guy to let me gut out the factory doors or install plexiglass windows, rear quarter windows, maybe even the back hatch window or make both pieces of the front bumper out of fiberglass & lose the factory brackets. The car ended up running 10.80's but still he would not lighten anything. He couldn't see the forest for the trees I guess. He finally did put a fiberglass hood on the car before a pint job but that was pretty much it.
Really enjoyed this one. I too have a heavy car (74 cutlass) and it’s amazing how much weight you can pull out of a car, don’t forget about the radiator support too, a lot of weight there.
hey just giving you a heads up, if you're going to wheels of time tomorrow, there's a guy toward quakertown getting rid of a whole lot of all kinds of stuff.
I had missed this build previously (busy summer). We have the same thinking/ideas when it comes to things. L83 or l86, same cylinder heads/cam etc with about 14-1 compression in a budget 2000lbs. Ready to race s10. The goal was 9sec and 600-650hp n/a. In a light, very well set-up vehicle 8s might be achievable. Are you guys going th350 or 400 trans?
I've got a Fox body, it hooks well and works. I'm now putting a pair of 66s in the front of it. It has an iron block 6 liter, I'm thinking for it to work as well with the weight of the turbos up front I'm going to have to switch to a 5.3 aluminum block
You guys are awesome. I’m on the same build path with an NA LT 1 swapped into a ‘67 Chevelle. I have 9 second aspirations. Can’t wait to see what you show us next.👍
Don't forget the steering column weight. Those things are heavy. I built mine from a piece of 1 7/8" aluminum tubing with a 3/4" hollow shaft and a circle track aluminum steering wheel.
I haven't gone too fast yet because I still don't have much power. But my weight reduction theory is that the best weight reduction is to start with a lighter car. For example, I have a few Subarus, famously hard to make power without blowing. The outback makes 250whp and runs a 14.2, my '86 GL weighs 2300lbs, with that power it'd run a 12. The plan is to make more than that 250 wheel in that car.
@@Calvin-Nelson I guess I better be careful then haha. I'm thinking 350-400hp from the turbo I have, should put me somewhere in the 11s or 10s at that weight, which is way faster than I've ever been.
The old head myth Ive always heard was a 100lbs was good for a 10th. Its interesting to me the faster the car the lower weight effects it more. I would have thought it would have been the other way around. Wishing i would have put more effort in math class..id love to hear more about that.
Both you and the Nelsons are right. It does take less weight to equal 1 horsepower the faster you're going, but, at higher speed, it takes exponentially more horsepower to further speed up.
^ What he said. Power requirements increase exponentially, the faster you go. That said, my project car isn't fast (yet). So removing 400 lb actually improved 1/4 mile ET by about 0.8 second.
That’s great info, I’ve always known the weight penalty, but I didn’t know the math associated with it, I would have thought you would get rid of that factory subframe, they are pretty heavy, same as the one in me trans am
I love your Dad…loved the joke at the beginning 😂. He’s the kind of guy that, if he wants to….he can convey more with a look than words. Keep these kind of videos coming. I enjoyed it!
Mama Bear cooks good..... that and being idle for this long has not been good... definitely used to being active. Better days ahead. Just have to be slow until I recover.
@@andrewnelson3733I commented right at the beginning of the video-old car racing joke, not directed at you sir-good to see you, you’re looking great, love you guys.
I have a sawzall usage tip for you guys. That heavy duty rectangular bracket that the blade sticks through needs to be pushed hard against the metal that is being cut. This will cause the saw to be stationary and the blade to be doing the maximum travel thereby cutting the metal much faster. If the saw body is moving that movement is taken away from blade movement and very little sawing is being done. Sometimes the access is bad and the bracket can’t be up against the metal so you have to concentrate on holding the saw as strongly as possible to keep it from moving to excess and reducing blade travel.
Yeah. Sometimes that is how we use it, but you'll run into the problem where you totally wear out that one part of the blade closest to the guard. We like to use as much of the blade as possible.
If it doesn't make your car faster, it's making your car slower, it starts with easy to remove comfort items and decorative trim and can easily manifest in to a minor mental health issue from there, when you start counting grams and trying to lose weight yourself, you know.... one of the best places to spend a lot of money is on things that turn, rotational weight is a big deal, that's where you want the high dolar lightweight shiny parts
@@Calvin-Nelson yes, certainly these Gen 5, LT have cast aluminium blocks, along with the previous versions. Also, these factory ECU-ECM have "Flex-Fuel" within their designs, and certainly private ECU-ECM as FuelTech, HalTech, Moec, Holley, etc. thus allowing form more power gains with using any ethanol combination fuel from standard fuel station E-85 [40-55%], gaining 40 HP, to proper E-85/C-85, 85% ethanol, -88, -90, 95 + gaining 100 + HP, increasing from C-85, with more ethanol. also what limitations with aerodynamics improvements are per the class rules ? certainly many vehicles can have improved undercarriage [many factory, newer vehicles have], front dam, air diffusers, rear diffusers, wing Also how much of the vehicle must retain factory frame rails, glass ?
@troymecey I worked for a motorsports company, IMSA prototype cars and the amount of time and effort we put into removing weight was incredible. As a machinist I was oftentimes giving various components and told ...tune it up. Removing weight took time but I was told a pound of weight off the car could cost upwards of 10k $ And worth every penny
I changed the tires and wheels to shave 23# per tire/wheel. The response in the vehicle is instantaneous. What’s next? Finding a 120# driver to save weight?
Dad seems to be moving around a bit better. I'm glad to see him getting back to himself
Yep. Me too
Something to know about CrMoly / 4130 for those at home. The material isn't lighter per volume, it is stronger allowing one to move to a thinner wall saving weight.
As a weight saving addict i really enjoyed this video. My mustang used to weigh 3200 and i got it down to 2150 race weight. Lightweight baby!
i am really liking these builds! cant wait to see dyno and more
Thanks bud. Hoping the DI works well.
It's awesome to see your dad getting around so well I love it and head be back soon
i like your dad's sense of humor. great to see him up and at it again.
Excellent video on a great topic!
I have a spreadsheet of upgrades and I sort them on a $/lb reduced to guide me on paid upgrades. Very helpful to gauge effectiveness of parts. One $300 kirkey vs 2 oem buckets saved 90lbs in an A body.
Good to see Big Stan out in the shop! This will definitely be exciting!
A Disco Nova! ❤ Great video guys
Great video also glad to see pops doing so well A Men.
I had a 70 Chevy station wagon I bought it for the motor and Trans, but after a marriage ending argument , I know we were over but life moves forward , I took out my issues gutting the wagon it went from 5800 lbs to 2850 with me in it for super Chevy, I did race it as well , I became known for huge burnouts , people from the track started giving me tires to melt. All of this allowed me to calm down , as I was dismantling my life , I sold everything I owned and was left with tools and a Chevy pickup, tough to do but it saved my life. My 2nd wife passed in 2020. Life is strange as I'm now getting that pickup ready to race this season , with my second wife's daughter as driver,
I like the play on Clifford's 6=8 mantra 😅
Very informative video. Lots of good weight cuts. Love you guys builds. Can't wait to see how it goes.
It's good to see Andrew fully ambulatory. 👍
BoostedBoiz Kyle found this out. He stripped down his Tesla Plaid and ended up taking out so much weight that traction became VERY difficult to find at lower speeds. His car went from about 4,600 pounds down to around 3,900 pounds. Then, because he took out body panels too, his aero got horribly worse so his 1/4 mile times didn’t really get much faster.
You can’t decrease weight AND make aero worse and think that you are going to go faster.
The location the weight comes off of matters as well. If you have a rear wheel drive vehicle, if you take off a lot of weight in the back then it could negatively affect traction.
Sorry if you covered all of this in the video. I’m typing this while listening to it.
Yeah. We didn't really cover traction. I'm most cases, losing weight in the car won't be a factor to traction. Kyle's problem is he can't get a decent tire on the car, as well as the factory traction control wrecking havoc.
Great work, Calvin & Andrew. Looking forward to seeing this old gal scoot!
If you're looking for more information/research on DI engines in general, maybe start looking into the VW/Audi area.
They started with DI engine tuning in 2005? and figured out a lot of the basics.
It's been awhile but back in the 80's & 90's I was helping a couple guys with their cars. One a 72 Vega with a 12 bolt GM 4.88 rear, a 383 SBC around 500+ HP, turbo 400, full cage. (home built by somebody else) He still had the stock steel hood and hinges with a velocity stack sticking through it. I could never get the guy to let me gut out the factory doors or install plexiglass windows, rear quarter windows, maybe even the back hatch window or make both pieces of the front bumper out of fiberglass & lose the factory brackets. The car ended up running 10.80's but still he would not lighten anything. He couldn't see the forest for the trees I guess. He finally did put a fiberglass hood on the car before a pint job but that was pretty much it.
Cool! Cant wait for the next video!
Really enjoyed this one. I too have a heavy car (74 cutlass) and it’s amazing how much weight you can pull out of a car, don’t forget about the radiator support too, a lot of weight there.
Another benefit you get from weight reduction is improved drive line reliability. Transmission, U joints, ring and pinion, axles etc.
Great information. Thank you for breaking it down in such an easy to understand way.
people overlook this..great video
hey just giving you a heads up, if you're going to wheels of time tomorrow, there's a guy toward quakertown getting rid of a whole lot of all kinds of stuff.
Thanks
I had missed this build previously (busy summer). We have the same thinking/ideas when it comes to things. L83 or l86, same cylinder heads/cam etc with about 14-1 compression in a budget 2000lbs. Ready to race s10. The goal was 9sec and 600-650hp n/a. In a light, very well set-up vehicle 8s might be achievable.
Are you guys going th350 or 400 trans?
I've got a Fox body, it hooks well and works. I'm now putting a pair of 66s in the front of it. It has an iron block 6 liter, I'm thinking for it to work as well with the weight of the turbos up front I'm going to have to switch to a 5.3 aluminum block
It's possible. Depends on a lot of things. We ran a twin turbo iron block 6.0 in my Station Wagon. It hooked up just fine.
You guys are awesome. I’m on the same build path with an NA
LT 1 swapped into a ‘67 Chevelle. I have 9 second aspirations. Can’t wait to see what you show us next.👍
Don't forget the steering column weight. Those things are heavy. I built mine from a piece of 1 7/8" aluminum tubing with a 3/4" hollow shaft and a circle track aluminum steering wheel.
great info! Thanks for sharing!
I haven't gone too fast yet because I still don't have much power. But my weight reduction theory is that the best weight reduction is to start with a lighter car. For example, I have a few Subarus, famously hard to make power without blowing. The outback makes 250whp and runs a 14.2, my '86 GL weighs 2300lbs, with that power it'd run a 12. The plan is to make more than that 250 wheel in that car.
Nice. That's a great way to look at it. That was the whole theory with the Volvo we built.
@@Calvin-Nelson I guess I better be careful then haha. I'm thinking 350-400hp from the turbo I have, should put me somewhere in the 11s or 10s at that weight, which is way faster than I've ever been.
@@Levibetz yep. That will do that!
The old head myth Ive always heard was a 100lbs was good for a 10th. Its interesting to me the faster the car the lower weight effects it more. I would have thought it would have been the other way around. Wishing i would have put more effort in math class..id love to hear more about that.
Both you and the Nelsons are right. It does take less weight to equal 1 horsepower the faster you're going, but, at higher speed, it takes exponentially more horsepower to further speed up.
^ What he said. Power requirements increase exponentially, the faster you go. That said, my project car isn't fast (yet). So removing 400 lb actually improved 1/4 mile ET by about 0.8 second.
@@Kincentc yes sir. And the weight penalty is on the whole drive train, the tires and the brakes. Weight is the enemy!
Priceless 6>8 shirt while standing next to the V8 that’s about to be built 😂😁
That’s great info, I’ve always known the weight penalty, but I didn’t know the math associated with it, I would have thought you would get rid of that factory subframe, they are pretty heavy, same as the one in me trans am
Class rules
I love your Dad…loved the joke at the beginning 😂. He’s the kind of guy that, if he wants to….he can convey more with a look than words. Keep these kind of videos coming. I enjoyed it!
What ever happened to the Studebaker. I'm very glad you dad is still here. But I love that old car
It's been on the back burner again. Needs some love.
Good content as usual the truth 😀
Please share with us as you learn manipulating the DI, and which computer you run.
Can't help myself but it sounds like your Dad describes all the benefits to equip the engine with some nitrous in the future. 😁
Or a SC....bwhahahaha.....but that would be after this is fully exercised and dialed.
Would love to see a 4200 put in an 05 impala and make an all American GTR
Seeing the math really drives home how important weight savings is!
Put down the donuts
Mama Bear cooks good..... that and being idle for this long has not been good... definitely used to being active. Better days ahead. Just have to be slow until I recover.
@@andrewnelson3733I commented right at the beginning of the video-old car racing joke, not directed at you sir-good to see you, you’re looking great, love you guys.
@@jasonandjenparks1523 I'm fat and need to loose about 18 HP.
I have a sawzall usage tip for you guys. That heavy duty rectangular bracket that the blade sticks through needs to be pushed hard against the metal that is being cut. This will cause the saw to be stationary and the blade to be doing the maximum travel thereby cutting the metal much faster. If the saw body is moving that movement is taken away from blade movement and very little sawing is being done.
Sometimes the access is bad and the bracket can’t be up against the metal so you have to concentrate on holding the saw as strongly as possible to keep it from moving to excess and reducing blade travel.
Yeah. Sometimes that is how we use it, but you'll run into the problem where you totally wear out that one part of the blade closest to the guard. We like to use as much of the blade as possible.
Are you allowed to ditch the glass and use polycarbonate or plexiglass? I know glass is heavy.
Unfortunately, no we can't.
If it doesn't make your car faster, it's making your car slower, it starts with easy to remove comfort items and decorative trim and can easily manifest in to a minor mental health issue from there, when you start counting grams and trying to lose weight yourself, you know.... one of the best places to spend a lot of money is on things that turn, rotational weight is a big deal, that's where you want the high dolar lightweight shiny parts
Guys, is that an aluminum block? I'm not familiar with Chevys...
It is. Almost all of the Gen LT stuff has aluminum blocks.
@@Calvin-Nelson Got it. Do you need special coolant to avoid galvanic corroson?
@@bvward we use the orange dexcool stuff.
@@Calvin-Nelson yes, certainly these Gen 5, LT have cast aluminium blocks, along with the previous versions.
Also, these factory ECU-ECM have "Flex-Fuel" within their designs, and certainly private ECU-ECM as FuelTech, HalTech, Moec, Holley, etc. thus allowing form more power gains with using any ethanol combination fuel from standard fuel station E-85 [40-55%], gaining 40 HP, to proper E-85/C-85, 85% ethanol, -88, -90, 95 + gaining 100 + HP, increasing from C-85, with more ethanol.
also what limitations with aerodynamics improvements are per the class rules ? certainly many vehicles can have improved undercarriage [many factory, newer vehicles have], front dam, air diffusers, rear diffusers, wing
Also how much of the vehicle must retain factory frame rails, glass ?
Is the engine block aluminum?
Yes!
👍
Double mini spares up front. Lol
Pounds per horsepower
...always
And ounces = pounds
@troymecey
I worked for a motorsports company, IMSA prototype cars and the amount of time and effort we put into removing weight was incredible.
As a machinist I was oftentimes giving various components and told ...tune it up.
Removing weight took time but I was told a pound of weight off the car could cost upwards of 10k $
And worth every penny
I changed the tires and wheels to shave 23# per tire/wheel. The response in the vehicle is instantaneous.
What’s next? Finding a 120# driver to save weight?
Nope. Dad deserves to drive this one. He's earned it.
remember, amputation is never a good plan
Ah!!!! Adding Lightness. The old addition by subtraction algorithm.
Edit: Tilton starter adapters?
They'll be coming soon.
You lost me at naturally aspirated
Ok. See ya!
A jockey as a driver 😅
Jenny Craig FTW!