13:11 Never adjust a laser pot with a bad quality CD-R. Because, if you do that, the laser is gonna to be too powerful for an original disc, creating reading problem. Use always original disc, put the laser on the middle rail and try to obtain a RF signal of 0.95/1.35v p-p. (Tested with my 7002 using an analog scope)
I'm using a Hantek DSO2000 series, and it simply cannot trigger onto the eye pattern like my 40 year old Tektronix 2236 could before the PSU literally well, exploded. I do plan to fix the old scope with the new one, but I'm shocked you are getting a clear eye pattern out of your Rigol, and I'm set up basically the same way as you are, but the Hantek refuses to trigger on the eye pattern. Unforutnately the Hantek was all I could afford right now, so I hope it is possible to do. I am seeing the peak to peaks however, but I noticed if I even went near 1.2v peak to peak, the top of the RF output would flatten and the laser hisses. I'd assume since it can go "up to 1.35v" this shouldn't be. My 5501 is using the 440-BAM laser as it was a new laser out of my PSone (a PlayStation that got used only for a few months then put away, then capacitors killed it and my 5501 survived, but had an ADM laser which was very weak).
Oooh, I got no oscilloscope. I have no idea how one could adjust potenciometer to get a better result. Got 2 pieces that arrived today, but they simply won't spin the disc any further. Originak and press copy wouldn't work. After trying out different values, it started spinning, but game's won't play. Stuck on PS screen and some struggle to read it.
Hi, Just wondered something if you up the laser voltage to read CDR media, what affect does that have when using pressed originals? If you are going to use both pressed originals and burned media is there an in between voltage you would use or just get it to read the worst discs and leave it at that?Regards,Chris.
Great stuff =D Nice covering the issue about disc wobble - that's something I forgot to mention when following on from RetroGameModz video, but tbh provided you test audio tracks on inner and outer edges of the disc it should be OK. That's also where the tracking and focus gain adjustments usually can come into play (wobble and tracking) - thankfully I've not had to touch those yet. One thing I would say though, it's better to reduce the voltage where possible, rather than increase it. Typically people increase the voltage when CD-R won't work etc, but often the media makes a difference. For example, on my Saturn it won't read the discs you showed there (Maxell etc), but it reads perfectly the Taiyo Yuden discs even after reducing the laser voltage. The other benefit in reducing rather than increasing (if you can, and if it still reads CD-R) is that the laser will last longer. From the systems I've checked so far I've found that at manufacture they set them according to quite a large tolerance. eg. on PS1 I read in the service manualy up to 1.35v is OK, and mine was set to over 1.1v. But it works fine at 1v, and can go as low as 800mV. This is also the reason that some PS1's and other consoles die before others - if the laser was set quite high at factory it won't last as long. I am sure you've seen the same thing with LED's - if you drive them bright, they last half as long. Great video though, lovely scope, lovely video =D
Your right about the laser power, I don't like pushing a laser over 1.1 v-pp even for CD-R's it why I was happy to see this laser comfortable reading these crappy discs at around 900mV, it should be fine at that voltage and last a very long time as its well under the 1v-pp mark and should be no problem for a CD laser to cope with and will also read a lot of different manufacturers CD-R's on the market as well because I just know my friend will ignore my advice to use good quality discs and buy rubbish ones instead. Bloody cheapskate, ha-ha. As for your CD-R reading problems on the Sega Saturn, it's common. I also have these issues it because the Sega Saturn utilizes an older style \ method of reading the disc compared to the Playstation. The Playstation's optical system (apart from some early models) was way more advance than the Sega Saturn's, if you look at the Sega Saturn. hell, not just the Saturn but many other consoles from before and around that time period there are manual adjustment for optical adjustments like FEG, TEG, FEB, TEB, were on the Playstation most of them are gone and are taken care of by custom chips like the (IC-723 CXA-2575N \ RF AMP and IC-722 BAS-977FP-E2 \ FOCUS/TRACKING COIL DRIVE MOTOR DRIVE) these in conjunction with other custom chips can monitors and adjusts these adjustments on the fly for optimum disc reading while the system is running. Yes, way more advance than most other console from before and around its time period. The only real adjustment you can do on the Playstation is to the laser power (and bias I think on earlier models, but don't quote me on that) it's why the Playstation can read so many crappy quality discs and other systems from before and around that time period like the Sega Saturn and alike that use the older style \ methods struggle reading those very same discs. You see this quit a lot on modern optical systems today, there are no adjustment for FEG, TEG, FEB, TEB as the optical system inside the system does it itself on the fly. its self aware. Yes, were getting closer to Sky Net every day, there will be terminators walking down our streets in the very near future. Ha-ha. The Playstation's optical system was pioneering in its day. Yes they did have teething problems but that turned out to be the laser itself causing the problems and having it to close to the PSU (heat). As for tracking, I like you stay away from this. It's one of those if it's not broke, well you know the rest, and should only be considered if the laser unit has been completely replaced for another and even then because most lasers for a system are made to a spec the truth is it will probably never need to be adjust anyway from its original factory setting. Thanks for the feedback by the way, it's always great to hear from you on my tiny little channel. Ha-ha. Yes my scope, it’s a Rigol DS1054Z. Worth every penny of the £350 I spent on it, I'm thinking of hacking it to unlock the extra features but I'll probably wait until the warranty runs out before I do so.
I might need to do another video as I am not sure I made it clear that when you adjust the laser voltage, the RF pattern doesn't show the actual laser voltage - it's just the voltage of the RF signal picked up by the pickup. What I mean by this is, say for example a CD-R gives 1.1v pp, with a pressed disc you will see over 1.1v pp, maybe 1.2v or 1.3v. The laser will obviously be set higher voltage to get that 1.1v pp with a CD-R, and as a result it will last a shorter amount of time - not neccessarily by a linear amount either. But what you see on the RF signal isn't actually the laser voltage. So despite only seeing less peak to peak RF level, the laser is working just as hard as it is (if not harder) when reading a CD-R vs a pressed disc, despite the RF level being lower for a CD-R. In the service manual Sony set the RF level with a pressed disc between 900mV and up to 1.35v - which is a crazy tolerance window to set them by imo - it's probably to accommodate tolerances due quality difference between lasers. All that said, its probably best to start at 900mV and test with pressed media, and if that works then test with a CD-R. With the right type of media, CD-R can work as low as 700mV pp on the RF signal on the Saturn, and it might be similar on the PS1. I guess the point I am trying to make is lower is better, and perhaps I didn't emphasise that enough in my previous videos. I take it that CD-R discs weren't working before you had to increase it? It's kind of like the point people make where they say 'my system wasn't reading discs, so I just tweaked the laser up a bit and now its ok' - They are right, but it will not last because the laser had already got to the point here it has lost output so much that the associated RF signal had dropped out of the range where it was sufficient. So all they are doing there is just getting that last bit of life out of the laser, but it will continue to drop with use. (Annoys the hell out of me because lots of people do that on eBay...) In summary, if you can reduce from 1.1v (or over, as set by Sony), you can often still read the 'right type' of CD-R (eg. Taiyo Yuden), and will extend the life of the laser. Personally I would say if you need to increase the laser to work with a type of CD-R, either change the CD-R media for another, or increase the voltage but expect less life from the laser. I hope that makes sense, I am not trying to knock your approach, just trying to be clear on things I perhaps wasn't clear on in my previous videos.
No need to go out of your way to make another video, I think I understand you Basically, if you Increase the power for reading CD-R's it 's also increased for the factory pressed CD as well, they're not both fixed at the same value, increasing one will also affects the other and over time because of this increase in power the lasers life is shortened. Yes. I know this. There are many differing was to approach this problem of reading CD-R's. One other way of approaching this but I find it's very problematic when using differing manufactured CD-Rs is to. Ignore the factory pressed CD all together and jump straight in with the CD-R, start lowering the power of the laser while monitoring the eye pattern on your Scope for signs of distress as you'll see this on your scope before you see any signs else ware. Then at that point adjust the power just a little above where you first saw the first signs of distress. What you'll find is the power level will be somewhere in the region of 700mV-pp to 800mV-pp and the factory pressed CD will also be very happy at this power level. However. Like I've mentioned this can be a little hit and miss when it comes to the system reading differing manufactured CD-R's but it's the best option if your only intention is extending the life of the laser while still being able to read some CD-R's. I suppose the real lesson here for anyone who is reading this is. There is more than one way to skin a cat and if you want your system to be able to read differing manufactured CD-R's, well sadly you're going to have to make a sacrifice. Ha-ha, No bud I don’t feel as if you're knocking my approach, far from it. I always appreciate your input and your input will always be greatly welcome here on my channel my friend.
@@Four_X I know that your comment is old but all the Saturns manufactured around mid 96 (some model 1 and many model 2) already had newer JVC CD drives without all those potentiometers that you mention. Nice video by the way, I'm looking for a super cheap oscilloscope and TH-cam brought me here : )
resistor calibration is between 750 ohm and 800 for cd-r. the cd´s must be clean and been recorded at 2x-4x speed, cd´s carbon positive makes a great copy and green pad label cds are trustable. not use verbatin, sony and other cds when the light passes very free. use cd´s grade A to make copy.
Hi! I bought a PS1 console. It looks like someone tampered with the rb703 pot. Is that for voltage adjustment? Can I adjust it to the right place using only a multimeter? Thank you.
FourX2k3 , ____ Very much appreciating the direct, concise content of your vid using the oscilloscope ( over DMM ) method and zoomed visual still images! ____ Beyond the console model numbering system here in North America, are the laser assemblies themselves the same part number across all regions or are they also following a region-specific numbering system? If so, I'd be interested in any direction / link you could share. ____ Just as / more important I suppose : Would the laser ( and other reference ) voltages be the same for North American consoles tracing back to the outputs of the power supply? ____ If these points were already covered in the video's on-screen text ( i.e., at 11:47 ) , I only wish that I could read them as it's on the borderline of legible for my smaller phone screen - the only device I have with me while in the thick of my repairs. Any chance the vid's on-screen text can be made bigger or included in the description with corresponding timestamps? ___ Keep sharing this concise and direct instruction!! It's so informative, non-assuming and to the points! Thank you!!
1) The lasers are the same across all regions, all you need to worry about is the correct model for your system. 2) The voltages used by a particular Playstation's motherboard are the same across all regions; the only difference is the power board inside for that model differ for the different mains inputs across regions. Let me elaborate more. If for example, I imported a NTSC system from the states to the UK I would normally need to use a 240v to 120v step down converter to power the system from UK mains, however. If I fitted the NTSC system with the equivalent PAL power board from the same model it would work perfectly fine without the need now for the 240v to 120v step down converter as the voltages are the same coming out of the power board that powers the motherboard. The only things that would differ from the original NTSC System would be the power board inside. The video out is still NTSC, the bios is still NTSC, The Master crystal, System and GPU clocks are still running at NTSC frequencies. However the power board inside is now PAL aka 240v input. If you watch my video here th-cam.com/video/MSBVti01mL8/w-d-xo.html I go into detail into what voltage rails are used on a PU-18 motherboard Playstation, the only difference you will see in the case of an NTSC equivalent system will be the video standard, clock frequencies and bios, the output voltages from the power board are the same inc the fuses on the motherboard. The video is in 4K by the way so hopefully it should be nice and clear on your mobile device. 3) I wouldn't try to match the vpp in my video as each laser will differ from one to the next, there's an old saying. No two lasers are the same. You should setup each laser on its own merit, if you try to match someone else's laser output you could easily burn the laser out. Thanks for your kind words by the way, always welcome. I hope I've helped you out somehow.
FourX2k3 , Might this adjustment by waveform (over digits-only) also work for PS2 LASERs? There's some i-Link system linking discs I'm wanting to read: GT3 (not sure the barrier it puts up as it relates to this disc's properties but a couple units freeze / stagger menu background with no/glitchy sound w/ inability to iLink) as well as the purple discs which include Unreal Tournament between 4 PS2s, Time Crisis 2 & 3 and Silent Scope 2: Dark Silhouette between a linked pair. Is minimal voltage best or is there a better voltage just above "minimal" to keep the LASER assemblies from going back into a median state of working too hard anytime soon?
Have to disagree on the 750X. You can't mod those with SPDIF output due to the integrated sound processor. I believe 7000 is the highest you can go and still mod for digital audio output.
Can you help me, I'm trying to do the calibration like in your video, and I'm not getting results, my oscilloscope is a hantek DSO2D15, I set it to 200mv for 500ns AC coupling, and I don't get the waveform that is in the service manual and As you show in the video, could you clarify where I'm going wrong? I have an original audio CD for testing
Got the same scope, it really has issues with CD eye patterns and is borderline unusable for this job. My old 2236 Tek had zero issues with this. Basically remember, this DSO is triggering horizontally in the middle, not the left, so your eye pattern starts in the center. Also yes persist needs to be on, at least 5 seconds. But it will appear messy, because triggering on this DSO is software driven, not hardware, so it's just an all around mess. I also am not sure I trust it's peak to peak voltage, because my laser sure is hissing loudly at apparently 920mV PP. (1.1v it rolls over at the top and starts skipping).
I have a scph-5502. What ohm do i need to set my poti? It only plays burned games normal when in a 45° angle.. Some games start but the FMVs are skipping when in normal position...
One of the best informative videos I've watched for tweaking a PSX laser potentiometer. Thank you! We all don't have scopes though ☺ What's the maximum you can adjust a very old and tired laser before risk of damage using a multimeter?
You could us a multimeter but you're putting the laser at high risk when doing this way. One of the main reasons for using a scope over a multimeter is a laser will have a limit to how much power you can push through it before you start to damage it. When you use a scope you can monitor and see in real time signs of distress from the laser by monitoring the eye pattern and you can see on the scope if the laser is being pushed too hard and can indeed handle the increase in power before you go on to do any irreversible damage to the laser. However, if you use a multimeter you cannot see those signs of distress and before you know it you can easily pushed it that little bit too far and then it's too late and your burning or have burnt out the laser and it will need to be completely replaced. If you know anyone with a scope and they have the knowledge of working with optical systems it will take them less than 20 minutes to cal your Playstation's laser for high quality CD-R's, you may think you don’t know anyone who can do this for you but you'll be surprised. If you live near any kind of TV, Video repair shop someone in there will no dough have the knowledge to do this for you as they'd probably been working on CD, DVD even blu-Ray players built into TVs for many years now and it shouldn’t be a problem for them to cal your Playstation's laser for CD-R's if you ask them nicely. They will probably charge a small fee but you can always shop around right. Hay, look at it like this. I'd rather pay a guy a little cash and get it done properly than to try and do it myself and burn out the laser and give myself an even bigger headache. OK, if you still think you can handle this yourself with a multimeter and are still interested in giving it a go, here's how. The technique is similar with a multimeter as it is on a scope, however like I mentioned before you have no way of knowing if you're pushing the laser too hard. OK, pop in a genuine disc and boot. start by measuring the laser power adjustment pot using your multimeter with a genuine disc in the drive (TIP. try to do this while the system is playing FMV or an audio track as the voltage shouldn’t be bouncing all over the place at this time). OK, let's say you do this and the voltage reads on your multimeter as 700mV Now, make a backup copy of the genuine disc using High Quality CD-R's and pop the CD-R backup in the Playstation drive and boot. Now Do the same again but this time with the high quality CD-R. Measure the laser power adjustment pot using the CD-R (TIP. for best result try and measure at the same point or position you did with the genuine disc), OK, let's say this time the voltage reads on your multimeter as 600mV Well, what's the difference (offset) between the two readings, well its 700 - 600 = 100. Right. That’s a + 100mV (offset) difference from the genuine disc to the CD-R. Final step, while the CD-R backup is still in the Playstation drive (TIP. and is reading the same point as before) add the + 100mV to the laser power adjustment pot using your multimeter to bring it up to the same voltage as what the genuine disc was "remember 700mV". Those CD-R's should now read as good as the genuine disc did (in theory) if you use high quality CD-Rs. Again please make sure you only use high quality CD-R discs. (I can't emphasise this enough) most people cheep out when it comes to CD-R's and blame the Playstation's laser when it can't read them, I see guys cheep out and complain on forums all the time. They go out and buy 100 Maxell CD-R's for £8 and expect the Playstation to read them. It's quite comical at times. My personal CD-R of choice is. Verbatim (43343) 700MB 52x CD-R AZO Crystal 50 Pack Spindle. Their around £12 for a Spindle of 50 and yes their very good CD-R's. I hope this help you out, personally I would still get a repair guy to do the adjustments for me. Oh, and I'm sorry if this is a bit long winded.
Can you put a link to the oscilloscope model you have? I'm wanting to get one so I can start tinkering with this sort of stuff. Awesome video, thanks a bunch.
How do you get that good pattern? I keep trying to test the same point but all I get is a very small sine wave, with all my settings like yours as far as I can figure... its a DS203 oscilloscope and I am using the analog channel. EDIT; had to put it on 1x... now I get a bigger wave, but this oscilloscope confuses me. it looks like no matter how much i adjust the y axis voltage, it always stays between one division... huh? I've used other oscilloscopes, but this small one just intrigues me.
Thanks a bunch! I've been looking for cheap scope to be able to read eye diagram, but all internet is saying you need an analog oscilloscope, digital ones won't be able to do it, unless very expensive ones, so I started to believe them and started to look for at least 400mhz, and 1ns/div time base used analog scope... cheapest 400mhz on ebay coast as much as this one new.... what a f... relieve. Geez what shall I choose now, a new one with a warranty or a "guess whats in a box" type one.. wish I could say that now in their faces, for all the nonsense they "advised"... because my mom used to say that ebay is like a chocolate box... you now the rest, when buying used. I'm new to this, any insights what exact specs I should be looking for when getting oscilloscope to read eye diagrams? Because apparently it turns out I don't need a 400mhz 1ns/dive time base analog scope for that, thanks to your video, so what numbers play the role in terms of specs on oscilloscope to get it to show an eye diagram?
Anyone have a scope and would be willing to help me calibrate some PSone lasers and maybe a PS2 laser? I bought parts off eBay, plopped them into my consoles, but can't get them to read. Very frustrated with the whole process, but if anyone wants to help please send me a DM or comment here.
Imation CD-R is not very not good, pot tweaking laser optics while electricity running thru disassembled PS1 is dangerous not the same as doing on PSone. Good idea to use original pressed ps1 disc as test disc.
Be nice to at least show a better image of the point you're probing for people who want to adjust their aftermarket lasers to factory. Or to read bad CD-Rs, I guess.
Yes guys I say it quite a lot guys don't I guys, I suppose guys it's better than saying errrrr on the video guys, guys. Ha-ha. You and your friends should start a drinking contest, every time I say guys you have to down a beer, you'll all be drunk after 10 minutes. Ha-ha
13:11 Never adjust a laser pot with a bad quality CD-R.
Because, if you do that, the laser is gonna to be too powerful for an original disc, creating reading problem.
Use always original disc, put the laser on the middle rail and try to obtain a RF signal of 0.95/1.35v p-p.
(Tested with my 7002 using an analog scope)
Thanks a million! This is the explanation I needed for repairing my Sega CD Laser!
I've never seen a PSX with power and eject buttons like that. Very cool.
One of the later models, just another change along with removing the RCA outs, parallel port etc
Its a european PSX unit.
I'm using a Hantek DSO2000 series, and it simply cannot trigger onto the eye pattern like my 40 year old Tektronix 2236 could before the PSU literally well, exploded. I do plan to fix the old scope with the new one, but I'm shocked you are getting a clear eye pattern out of your Rigol, and I'm set up basically the same way as you are, but the Hantek refuses to trigger on the eye pattern. Unforutnately the Hantek was all I could afford right now, so I hope it is possible to do. I am seeing the peak to peaks however, but I noticed if I even went near 1.2v peak to peak, the top of the RF output would flatten and the laser hisses. I'd assume since it can go "up to 1.35v" this shouldn't be. My 5501 is using the 440-BAM laser as it was a new laser out of my PSone (a PlayStation that got used only for a few months then put away, then capacitors killed it and my 5501 survived, but had an ADM laser which was very weak).
Oooh, I got no oscilloscope. I have no idea how one could adjust potenciometer to get a better result.
Got 2 pieces that arrived today, but they simply won't spin the disc any further. Originak and press copy wouldn't work. After trying out different values, it started spinning, but game's won't play. Stuck on PS screen and some struggle to read it.
Hi, Just wondered something if you up the laser voltage to read CDR media, what affect does that have when using pressed originals? If you are going to use both pressed originals and burned media is there an in between voltage you would use or just get it to read the worst discs and leave it at that?Regards,Chris.
I enjoyed your video :) Keep it up!
Thanks, glad you liked it.
@Four X
Hey can you make a video to adjust the laser for the SCPH 1000 series?
They have adjustment dials on the MB
Great stuff =D Nice covering the issue about disc wobble - that's something I forgot to mention when following on from RetroGameModz video, but tbh provided you test audio tracks on inner and outer edges of the disc it should be OK. That's also where the tracking and focus gain adjustments usually can come into play (wobble and tracking) - thankfully I've not had to touch those yet. One thing I would say though, it's better to reduce the voltage where possible, rather than increase it. Typically people increase the voltage when CD-R won't work etc, but often the media makes a difference. For example, on my Saturn it won't read the discs you showed there (Maxell etc), but it reads perfectly the Taiyo Yuden discs even after reducing the laser voltage.
The other benefit in reducing rather than increasing (if you can, and if it still reads CD-R) is that the laser will last longer. From the systems I've checked so far I've found that at manufacture they set them according to quite a large tolerance. eg. on PS1 I read in the service manualy up to 1.35v is OK, and mine was set to over 1.1v. But it works fine at 1v, and can go as low as 800mV. This is also the reason that some PS1's and other consoles die before others - if the laser was set quite high at factory it won't last as long.
I am sure you've seen the same thing with LED's - if you drive them bright, they last half as long. Great video though, lovely scope, lovely video =D
Your right about the laser power, I don't like pushing a laser over 1.1 v-pp even for CD-R's it why I was happy to see this laser comfortable reading these crappy discs at around 900mV, it should be fine at that voltage and last a very long time as its well under the 1v-pp mark and should be no problem for a CD laser to cope with and will also read a lot of different manufacturers CD-R's on the market as well because I just know my friend will ignore my advice to use good quality discs and buy rubbish ones instead. Bloody cheapskate, ha-ha.
As for your CD-R reading problems on the Sega Saturn, it's common. I also have these issues it because the Sega Saturn utilizes an older style \ method of reading the disc compared to the Playstation.
The Playstation's optical system (apart from some early models) was way more advance than the Sega Saturn's, if you look at the Sega Saturn. hell, not just the Saturn but many other consoles from before and around that time period there are manual adjustment for optical adjustments like FEG, TEG, FEB, TEB, were on the Playstation most of them are gone and are taken care of by custom chips like the (IC-723 CXA-2575N \ RF AMP and IC-722 BAS-977FP-E2 \ FOCUS/TRACKING COIL DRIVE MOTOR DRIVE) these in conjunction with other custom chips can monitors and adjusts these adjustments on the fly for optimum disc reading while the system is running. Yes, way more advance than most other console from before and around its time period.
The only real adjustment you can do on the Playstation is to the laser power (and bias I think on earlier models, but don't quote me on that) it's why the Playstation can read so many crappy quality discs and other systems from before and around that time period like the Sega Saturn and alike that use the older style \ methods struggle reading those very same discs.
You see this quit a lot on modern optical systems today, there are no adjustment for FEG, TEG, FEB, TEB as the optical system inside the system does it itself on the fly. its self aware. Yes, were getting closer to Sky Net every day, there will be terminators walking down our streets in the very near future. Ha-ha.
The Playstation's optical system was pioneering in its day. Yes they did have teething problems but that turned out to be the laser itself causing the problems and having it to close to the PSU (heat).
As for tracking, I like you stay away from this. It's one of those if it's not broke, well you know the rest, and should only be considered if the laser unit has been completely replaced for another and even then because most lasers for a system are made to a spec the truth is it will probably never need to be adjust anyway from its original factory setting.
Thanks for the feedback by the way, it's always great to hear from you on my tiny little channel. Ha-ha.
Yes my scope, it’s a Rigol DS1054Z. Worth every penny of the £350 I spent on it, I'm thinking of hacking it to unlock the extra features but I'll probably wait until the warranty runs out before I do so.
I might need to do another video as I am not sure I made it clear that when you adjust the laser voltage, the RF pattern doesn't show the actual laser voltage - it's just the voltage of the RF signal picked up by the pickup. What I mean by this is, say for example a CD-R gives 1.1v pp, with a pressed disc you will see over 1.1v pp, maybe 1.2v or 1.3v. The laser will obviously be set higher voltage to get that 1.1v pp with a CD-R, and as a result it will last a shorter amount of time - not neccessarily by a linear amount either. But what you see on the RF signal isn't actually the laser voltage. So despite only seeing less peak to peak RF level, the laser is working just as hard as it is (if not harder) when reading a CD-R vs a pressed disc, despite the RF level being lower for a CD-R.
In the service manual Sony set the RF level with a pressed disc between 900mV and up to 1.35v - which is a crazy tolerance window to set them by imo - it's probably to accommodate tolerances due quality difference between lasers. All that said, its probably best to start at 900mV and test with pressed media, and if that works then test with a CD-R. With the right type of media, CD-R can work as low as 700mV pp on the RF signal on the Saturn, and it might be similar on the PS1.
I guess the point I am trying to make is lower is better, and perhaps I didn't emphasise that enough in my previous videos. I take it that CD-R discs weren't working before you had to increase it? It's kind of like the point people make where they say 'my system wasn't reading discs, so I just tweaked the laser up a bit and now its ok' - They are right, but it will not last because the laser had already got to the point here it has lost output so much that the associated RF signal had dropped out of the range where it was sufficient. So all they are doing there is just getting that last bit of life out of the laser, but it will continue to drop with use. (Annoys the hell out of me because lots of people do that on eBay...) In summary, if you can reduce from 1.1v (or over, as set by Sony), you can often still read the 'right type' of CD-R (eg. Taiyo Yuden), and will extend the life of the laser. Personally I would say if you need to increase the laser to work with a type of CD-R, either change the CD-R media for another, or increase the voltage but expect less life from the laser. I hope that makes sense, I am not trying to knock your approach, just trying to be clear on things I perhaps wasn't clear on in my previous videos.
No need to go out of your way to make another video, I think I understand you
Basically, if you Increase the power for reading CD-R's it 's also increased for the factory pressed CD as well, they're not both fixed at the same value, increasing one will also affects the other and over time because of this increase in power the lasers life is shortened.
Yes. I know this.
There are many differing was to approach this problem of reading CD-R's. One other way of approaching this but I find it's very problematic when using differing manufactured CD-Rs is to.
Ignore the factory pressed CD all together and jump straight in with the CD-R, start lowering the power of the laser while monitoring the eye pattern on your Scope for signs of distress as you'll see this on your scope before you see any signs else ware. Then at that point adjust the power just a little above where you first saw the first signs of distress.
What you'll find is the power level will be somewhere in the region of 700mV-pp to 800mV-pp and the factory pressed CD will also be very happy at this power level.
However. Like I've mentioned this can be a little hit and miss when it comes to the system reading differing manufactured CD-R's but it's the best option if your only intention is extending the life of the laser while still being able to read some CD-R's.
I suppose the real lesson here for anyone who is reading this is.
There is more than one way to skin a cat and if you want your system to be able to read differing manufactured CD-R's, well sadly you're going to have to make a sacrifice.
Ha-ha, No bud I don’t feel as if you're knocking my approach, far from it. I always appreciate your input and your input will always be greatly welcome here on my channel my friend.
@@Four_X I know that your comment is old but all the Saturns manufactured around mid 96 (some model 1 and many model 2) already had newer JVC CD drives without all those potentiometers that you mention. Nice video by the way, I'm looking for a super cheap oscilloscope and TH-cam brought me here : )
@Four X nice video, have you considered showing this process for the PS2?
resistor calibration is between 750 ohm and 800 for cd-r. the cd´s must be clean and been recorded at 2x-4x speed, cd´s carbon positive makes a great copy and green pad label cds are trustable.
not use verbatin, sony and other cds when the light passes very free. use cd´s grade A to make copy.
Where may I find the equivalent test point in a PS2 Slim 70004?
can you measure the resistance on the adjusting pin?
Very instructive video, thank you very much!
So it is possible to adjust the laser without an oscilloscope but with only a multimeter?
(No eye-pattern but still a voltage reading).
Hi! I bought a PS1 console. It looks like someone tampered with the rb703 pot. Is that for voltage adjustment? Can I adjust it to the right place using only a multimeter? Thank you.
Is it possible to adjust properly because of induction noise of metal screwdriver?
Very good job 👏🏻!
Thank you! 😃
FourX2k3 ,
____ Very much appreciating the direct, concise content of your vid using the oscilloscope ( over DMM ) method and zoomed visual still images!
____ Beyond the console model numbering system here in North America, are the laser assemblies themselves the same part number across all regions or are they also following a region-specific numbering system? If so, I'd be interested in any direction / link you could share.
____ Just as / more important I suppose : Would the laser ( and other reference ) voltages be the same for North American consoles tracing back to the outputs of the power supply?
____ If these points were already covered in the video's on-screen text ( i.e., at 11:47 ) , I only wish that I could read them as it's on the borderline of legible for my smaller phone screen - the only device I have with me while in the thick of my repairs. Any chance the vid's on-screen text can be made bigger or included in the description with corresponding timestamps?
___ Keep sharing this concise and direct instruction!! It's so informative, non-assuming and to the points! Thank you!!
1) The lasers are the same across all regions, all you need to worry about is the correct model for your system.
2) The voltages used by a particular Playstation's motherboard are the same across all regions; the only difference is the power board inside for that model differ for the different mains inputs across regions.
Let me elaborate more. If for example, I imported a NTSC system from the states to the UK I would normally need to use a 240v to 120v step down converter to power the system from UK mains, however. If I fitted the NTSC system with the equivalent PAL power board from the same model it would work perfectly fine without the need now for the 240v to 120v step down converter as the voltages are the same coming out of the power board that powers the motherboard.
The only things that would differ from the original NTSC System would be the power board inside. The video out is still NTSC, the bios is still NTSC, The Master crystal, System and GPU clocks are still running at NTSC frequencies. However the power board inside is now PAL aka 240v input.
If you watch my video here
th-cam.com/video/MSBVti01mL8/w-d-xo.html
I go into detail into what voltage rails are used on a PU-18 motherboard Playstation, the only difference you will see in the case of an NTSC equivalent system will be the video standard, clock frequencies and bios, the output voltages from the power board are the same inc the fuses on the motherboard.
The video is in 4K by the way so hopefully it should be nice and clear on your mobile device.
3) I wouldn't try to match the vpp in my video as each laser will differ from one to the next, there's an old saying. No two lasers are the same. You should setup each laser on its own merit, if you try to match someone else's laser output you could easily burn the laser out.
Thanks for your kind words by the way, always welcome. I hope I've helped you out somehow.
FourX2k3 ,
Might this adjustment by waveform (over digits-only) also work for PS2 LASERs? There's some i-Link system linking discs I'm wanting to read: GT3 (not sure the barrier it puts up as it relates to this disc's properties but a couple units freeze / stagger menu background with no/glitchy sound w/ inability to iLink) as well as the purple discs which include Unreal Tournament between 4 PS2s, Time Crisis 2 & 3 and Silent Scope 2: Dark Silhouette between a linked pair. Is minimal voltage best or is there a better voltage just above "minimal" to keep the LASER assemblies from going back into a median state of working too hard anytime soon?
Have to disagree on the 750X. You can't mod those with SPDIF output due to the integrated sound processor. I believe 7000 is the highest you can go and still mod for digital audio output.
Can you help me, I'm trying to do the calibration like in your video, and I'm not getting results, my oscilloscope is a hantek DSO2D15, I set it to 200mv for 500ns AC coupling, and I don't get the waveform that is in the service manual and As you show in the video, could you clarify where I'm going wrong? I have an original audio CD for testing
You may need to put your scope into Persistence Mode, It will be in the acquisitionn memu or in the triggering menu.
Got the same scope, it really has issues with CD eye patterns and is borderline unusable for this job. My old 2236 Tek had zero issues with this. Basically remember, this DSO is triggering horizontally in the middle, not the left, so your eye pattern starts in the center. Also yes persist needs to be on, at least 5 seconds. But it will appear messy, because triggering on this DSO is software driven, not hardware, so it's just an all around mess. I also am not sure I trust it's peak to peak voltage, because my laser sure is hissing loudly at apparently 920mV PP. (1.1v it rolls over at the top and starts skipping).
I have a scph-5502. What ohm do i need to set my poti? It only plays burned games normal when in a 45° angle.. Some games start but the FMVs are skipping when in normal position...
Subscribed, you taught me something new. thanks
if we increase laser power. will it make laser head short life ?
Hi how are you using a Digital Oscilloscope i thought you can only use Analog Oscilloscopes on the Playstation Consoles Thanks Jos
Nope, with analogue scopes it's simply easier to set up but with digital scopes you just have to remember to adjust a few extra things.
What features do you have to have a digital scope to see the fisheye signal?
One of the best informative videos I've watched for tweaking a PSX laser potentiometer. Thank you!
We all don't have scopes though ☺
What's the maximum you can adjust a very old and tired laser before risk of damage using a multimeter?
In my experience dont go below 600 on pot. A good value would be arround 800 ohm.
Where did u measure using ur scope?
RF Point, it's labeled in the service manual.
@@Four_X thnks so much rf point ok I'm gonna look for it ,
thank you very much brother :)
but if i didn't have osciloscope how i can calibrate lazer
You could us a multimeter but you're putting the laser at high risk when doing this way.
One of the main reasons for using a scope over a multimeter is a laser will have a limit to how much power you can push through it before you start to damage it. When you use a scope you can monitor and see in real time signs of distress from the laser by monitoring the eye pattern and you can see on the scope if the laser is being pushed too hard and can indeed handle the increase in power before you go on to do any irreversible damage to the laser.
However, if you use a multimeter you cannot see those signs of distress and before you know it you can easily pushed it that little bit too far and then it's too late and your burning or have burnt out the laser and it will need to be completely replaced.
If you know anyone with a scope and they have the knowledge of working with optical systems it will take them less than 20 minutes to cal your Playstation's laser for high quality CD-R's, you may think you don’t know anyone who can do this for you but you'll be surprised. If you live near any kind of TV, Video repair shop someone in there will no dough have the knowledge to do this for you as they'd probably been working on CD, DVD even blu-Ray players built into TVs for many years now and it shouldn’t be a problem for them to cal your Playstation's laser for CD-R's if you ask them nicely. They will probably charge a small fee but you can always shop around right. Hay, look at it like this. I'd rather pay a guy a little cash and get it done properly than to try and do it myself and burn out the laser and give myself an even bigger headache.
OK, if you still think you can handle this yourself with a multimeter and are still interested in giving it a go, here's how.
The technique is similar with a multimeter as it is on a scope, however like I mentioned before you have no way of knowing if you're pushing the laser too hard.
OK, pop in a genuine disc and boot. start by measuring the laser power adjustment pot using your multimeter with a genuine disc in the drive (TIP. try to do this while the system is playing FMV or an audio track as the voltage shouldn’t be bouncing all over the place at this time). OK, let's say you do this and the voltage reads on your multimeter as 700mV
Now, make a backup copy of the genuine disc using High Quality CD-R's and pop the CD-R backup in the Playstation drive and boot. Now
Do the same again but this time with the high quality CD-R. Measure the laser power adjustment pot using the CD-R (TIP. for best result try and measure at the same point or position you did with the genuine disc), OK, let's say this time the voltage reads on your multimeter as 600mV
Well, what's the difference (offset) between the two readings, well its 700 - 600 = 100. Right. That’s a + 100mV (offset) difference from the genuine disc to the CD-R.
Final step, while the CD-R backup is still in the Playstation drive (TIP. and is reading the same point as before) add the + 100mV to the laser power adjustment pot using your multimeter to bring it up to the same voltage as what the genuine disc was "remember 700mV". Those CD-R's should now read as good as the genuine disc did (in theory) if you use high quality CD-Rs.
Again please make sure you only use high quality CD-R discs. (I can't emphasise this enough) most people cheep out when it comes to CD-R's and blame the Playstation's laser when it can't read them, I see guys cheep out and complain on forums all the time. They go out and buy 100 Maxell CD-R's for £8 and expect the Playstation to read them. It's quite comical at times.
My personal CD-R of choice is.
Verbatim (43343) 700MB 52x CD-R AZO Crystal 50 Pack Spindle.
Their around £12 for a Spindle of 50 and yes their very good CD-R's.
I hope this help you out, personally I would still get a repair guy to do the adjustments for me. Oh, and I'm sorry if this is a bit long winded.
Good job
Can you put a link to the oscilloscope model you have? I'm wanting to get one so I can start tinkering with this sort of stuff. Awesome video, thanks a bunch.
I know you asked this almost 5 years ago (lol) but i just saw your comment. I believe he uses a Rigol DS1054Z
Currently $419 USD on amazon
Hey man, thanks for the vidéo. Is it possible to adjust thé laser without oscilo ? Thanks
You can’t or otherwise you could mess up your PS1.
@@Playvoodoo i did it, without any multimetre or oscillo, only with reference images christophe.mahe.free.free.fr/PSX/reglagepsx.htm
How do you get that good pattern? I keep trying to test the same point but all I get is a very small sine wave, with all my settings like yours as far as I can figure... its a DS203 oscilloscope and I am using the analog channel.
EDIT; had to put it on 1x... now I get a bigger wave, but this oscilloscope confuses me. it looks like no matter how much i adjust the y axis voltage, it always stays between one division... huh? I've used other oscilloscopes, but this small one just intrigues me.
I also would like to know, because i also get nowhere close to super clear picture as in this video.
I have broken RV703 trimmer pot in PSX SCPH 5502, what is value of resistance. Some one can helps me?
It's a 47kOhm trimmer :).
Thanks a bunch! I've been looking for cheap scope to be able to read eye diagram, but all internet is saying you need an analog oscilloscope, digital ones won't be able to do it, unless very expensive ones, so I started to believe them and started to look for at least 400mhz, and 1ns/div time base used analog scope... cheapest 400mhz on ebay coast as much as this one new.... what a f... relieve. Geez what shall I choose now, a new one with a warranty or a "guess whats in a box" type one.. wish I could say that now in their faces, for all the nonsense they "advised"... because my mom used to say that ebay is like a chocolate box... you now the rest, when buying used.
I'm new to this, any insights what exact specs I should be looking for when getting oscilloscope to read eye diagrams? Because apparently it turns out I don't need a 400mhz 1ns/dive time base analog scope for that, thanks to your video, so what numbers play the role in terms of specs on oscilloscope to get it to show an eye diagram?
@月 Do you have a scope?
@月 I know your comment was from 10 months ago, but do you mind if I ask for your help with some laser calibration?
A 50MHz Rigol 1054Z will do this easily.
Anyone have a scope and would be willing to help me calibrate some PSone lasers and maybe a PS2 laser? I bought parts off eBay, plopped them into my consoles, but can't get them to read. Very frustrated with the whole process, but if anyone wants to help please send me a DM or comment here.
Imation CD-R is not very not good, pot tweaking laser optics while electricity running thru disassembled PS1 is dangerous not the same as doing on PSone. Good idea to use original pressed ps1 disc as test disc.
Wtf! I always thought it would be a simple wave. How can a console extract an info out of such a mess?
that pattern is overlay of multiple waves in time. there is a simple wave with phase variations
Great
Be nice to at least show a better image of the point you're probing for people who want to adjust their aftermarket lasers to factory. Or to read bad CD-Rs, I guess.
guys
Yes guys I say it quite a lot guys don't I guys, I suppose guys it's better than saying errrrr on the video guys, guys. Ha-ha.
You and your friends should start a drinking contest, every time I say guys you have to down a beer, you'll all be drunk after 10 minutes. Ha-ha