As ever another fantastic video. I love your philosophy of keeping things simple and your standards of maintenance are simply awe inspiring. Although I try, I'm afraid I'm not nearly so good. It's maybe a good job that I'm just a coastal sailor. Thanks for the inspiration. Phil.😊
Thank you for the video! may I ask what percentage your Genoa, and working jib is. Do you still like hanks vs roller furler? Do you use a down haul with the jibs, staysail? Your working jib has quite a high clew would you call it a yankee? It seems one has more choices with hank on sails as opposed to a big 135% on a furler, just some more work with the hank ones. Sorry for the stream of questions, thanks again for the real sailing videos.
Hi James. The jib in this video is my working jib. It has a 6' zip-on lower bonnet to turn it into a genoa. Configured as genoa it's 100 percent. About 400 sq feet. About 300 sq as working jib. Not overlapping. I did not want an overlapping jib. Much easier and quicker to tack. We have a taller mast and longer bow sprit than a stock CD36 so lots of sail area. Yes. Jib downhaul. Very important with hank-on headsail. Not a Yankee. I can reach the clew from the deck which was my requirement to the sailmaker.
That's a great question. Thanks for commenting and for asking. It's a vang/preventer. Because I have a dinghy on the cabin top I don't have a way to rig a boom vang to control leech tension. So I rigged my vang much further aft--more than half the length of the boom or about 9'6" aft of the gooseneck. The bail is set into a slot in the underside of the boom but is further bolted into a solid rod of T6061 aluminum bar stock about 1.5"x1.25"x3ft long inside the boom to reinforce the boom so the boom is very robust. I use a strop loop on the end of the vang preventer looped around the bulwarks which are secured by 1/4" silicon bronze brackets through bolted with 5/16" bolts using G10 backing plates. The bulwarks are 7/8" thick. Sometimes I add a second vang preventer as well. Plenty of videos posed with both vangs rigged. I always rig the strop next to the bulwark bracket. If you look closely I also have a pad eye installed on each side of the boom on the far aft end. I rigged those to serve as an end boom preventer attachment point. But, the reality is the vang/preventer works very well. And I never sail off the wind without it rigged because it is so quick and easy to use especially singlehanded. I have experienced a couple unintentional gybes downwind in the trades at night when the windvane disengaged due to sargassum loading up on the servo blade. It's pretty exciting (scary as hell). The boat gybes and rounds up. But no issues. The boom is very secure and it's simple to sort out and get back under way. In heavy-air down wind I have the main double reefed and often I drop it entirely then lash it down to the boom gallows and carry on downwind under single reefed or double reefed stays'l. That's the safest way down wind. If one were to rely on a single boom vang rigged close the the gooseneck in the traditional way then it would be dangerous. The lever arm of the long boom would overpower the vang and rip it out of the boom or break the boom. In such a set up an end boom preventer is the best set up. How is that for an answer?
@FarReachVoyages Thanks for this. I did notice the double vang. It sounds like you have a robust solution with the boom reinforced and the vang attachments well outboard. That makes complete sense. I recently did some simple minded calculations of the load you might see on a end-boom preventer for my Bristol 35.5 -- similar size boat to yours -- if you dipped the end of the boom in the water when rolled by a wave while sailing downwind. If you have a square meter of of your sail and the boom drop in the water when you're making 6.5 knots, the load is something like 1500 lbs. The shock load would be higher of course. The tension in the end-of-boom preventer is more (cosine of the preventer line angle) and in my case would be 1850 lbs. That is some serious shock torque on the boom if your main is mid-boom sheeted. I'm with you on dropping the main for downwind in heavy air. We saw 40+ knots coming back from Bermuda earlier this summer and and managed this with a mostly furled genoa. Great videos. Thanks. @FarReachVoyages
As ever another fantastic video. I love your philosophy of keeping things simple and your standards of maintenance are simply awe inspiring. Although I try, I'm afraid I'm not nearly so good. It's maybe a good job that I'm just a coastal sailor. Thanks for the inspiration. Phil.😊
Thanks for kind comments. Glad you liked the video. No one kind of sailing is better than another as long as it brings you joy.
What a fab passage!
Glad you liked it. Thanks for engaging.
Thanks for another superb video of your adventures. No one does it better.
I don't know about that! But I appreciate the comments. Thanks for engaging.
Great video! Telling it like it is. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and also for engaging!
Still looking for that first boat. Great job. Great Video.
Glad you enjoyed the video. There are lots of boats out there. Keep your eye on the prize. Thanks for engaging.
Great video always look forward to the next one. Keep it downwind!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for commenting!
Another great video. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for commenting.
Hope all is well and a new set of videos come out soon. Like the other commenters, superb videos and my favorite channel.
Thanks Michael. Much appreciated. Been out Jeep camping in the south west. Lots more to come. I'll put out an update when I have a chance.
another great video
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for commenting.
@@FarReachVoyages do some short videos that will make people to engage like keel types, Maybe a Panama channel crossing,
Etc
@@FarReachVoyages do a walk around your marina and talk about the boats you see, that keep people engaged
Thank you for the video! may I ask what percentage your Genoa, and working jib is. Do you still like hanks vs roller furler? Do you use a down haul with the jibs, staysail? Your working jib has quite a high clew would you call it a yankee? It seems one has more choices with hank on sails as opposed to a big 135% on a furler, just some more work with the hank ones. Sorry for the stream of questions, thanks again for the real sailing videos.
Hi James. The jib in this video is my working jib. It has a 6' zip-on lower bonnet to turn it into a genoa. Configured as genoa it's 100 percent. About 400 sq feet. About 300 sq as working jib.
Not overlapping. I did not want an overlapping jib. Much easier and quicker to tack. We have a taller mast and longer bow sprit than a stock CD36 so lots of sail area.
Yes. Jib downhaul. Very important with hank-on headsail. Not a Yankee. I can reach the clew from the deck which was my requirement to the sailmaker.
Why do you have a mid-boom preventer rather than an end-boom preventer?
That's a great question. Thanks for commenting and for asking. It's a vang/preventer. Because I have a dinghy on the cabin top I don't have a way to rig a boom vang to control leech tension. So I rigged my vang much further aft--more than half the length of the boom or about 9'6" aft of the gooseneck. The bail is set into a slot in the underside of the boom but is further bolted into a solid rod of T6061 aluminum bar stock about 1.5"x1.25"x3ft long inside the boom to reinforce the boom so the boom is very robust. I use a strop loop on the end of the vang preventer looped around the bulwarks which are secured by 1/4" silicon bronze brackets through bolted with 5/16" bolts using G10 backing plates. The bulwarks are 7/8" thick. Sometimes I add a second vang preventer as well. Plenty of videos posed with both vangs rigged. I always rig the strop next to the bulwark bracket.
If you look closely I also have a pad eye installed on each side of the boom on the far aft end. I rigged those to serve as an end boom preventer attachment point. But, the reality is the vang/preventer works very well. And I never sail off the wind without it rigged because it is so quick and easy to use especially singlehanded. I have experienced a couple unintentional gybes downwind in the trades at night when the windvane disengaged due to sargassum loading up on the servo blade. It's pretty exciting (scary as hell). The boat gybes and rounds up. But no issues. The boom is very secure and it's simple to sort out and get back under way.
In heavy-air down wind I have the main double reefed and often I drop it entirely then lash it down to the boom gallows and carry on downwind under single reefed or double reefed stays'l. That's the safest way down wind.
If one were to rely on a single boom vang rigged close the the gooseneck in the traditional way then it would be dangerous. The lever arm of the long boom would overpower the vang and rip it out of the boom or break the boom. In such a set up an end boom preventer is the best set up.
How is that for an answer?
@FarReachVoyages Thanks for this. I did notice the double vang. It sounds like you have a robust solution with the boom reinforced and the vang attachments well outboard. That makes complete sense.
I recently did some simple minded calculations of the load you might see on a end-boom preventer for my Bristol 35.5 -- similar size boat to yours -- if you dipped the end of the boom in the water when rolled by a wave while sailing downwind. If you have a square meter of of your sail and the boom drop in the water when you're making 6.5 knots, the load is something like 1500 lbs. The shock load would be higher of course. The tension in the end-of-boom preventer is more (cosine of the preventer line angle) and in my case would be 1850 lbs. That is some serious shock torque on the boom if your main is mid-boom sheeted.
I'm with you on dropping the main for downwind in heavy air. We saw 40+ knots coming back from Bermuda earlier this summer and and managed this with a mostly furled genoa.
Great videos. Thanks.
@FarReachVoyages