Be advised all people with Ultra torque (UT) super record cranks: The super record UT crank use a reversed thread, and not the direction illustrated in this video. I learned the hard way after watching this. Now my crank bolt is rounded and I have to hand it in to a bike shop. Who nows if they can fix it.
Good info - I didn't know! I'll pin your comment so other people can see it. You might be able to get it out with the back side of the Park Tool t-handle hex keys - they have a rounded bolt extractor.
Same as in this and every other video! And yes, it will be very, very tight and you’ll probably need a block of wood or something to jamb under a crank while you loosen it.
Addition tip, if I may suggest.. Use a cable tie or string on each of the small loop for the clip, and voila just pull both sides at the same time. To reinstall the clip, place it on the cup, and adjust near the anchoring holes before installing the crank. Push in the clip onto the two holes, no need for pliers. Done.
Good news is that you don’t need the expensive bearing puller or seating tool! I just went to a mate’s place who had a bearing puller. Turned out it was massive as he uses it on trucks. It got the non-drive bearing off with no problem but on the drive side the inside cupping of the crank spider meant it wouldn’t fit. We just removed the chain rings (they needed a good clean anyway!) and then pried the bearing off with a pry (like a large screwdriver with a bent shaft) and paddle with some rubber sheet so we didn’t damage the inside of the spider. Then I used a short length of electrical conduit with a 26mm interior diameter cut straight (important) just a few millimeters longer than necessary to tap the new bearings in. Really simple!
Great clear video on this topic. Enjoyed the summary of pro and con for Campa systems. I am all Campa based and happily so. Every system has quirks. I can work with that. Plus the other brands are quite fugly, which is too high a price to pay on a nice ride.
Glad you enjoyed it! Yeah, I think the Campag stuff is definitely better looking and I really enjoy the shifting performance. Working on it isn't any harder than any other system, although I do notice it being a bit more picky about how clean it is. Shimano can handle being really neglected and gunked up and it'll still shift ok, but I find my Campag prefers being nice and clean.
Great video - can I just check that this procedure is the same for a Campagnolo Ekar where the retaining bolt is on the non drive side. I’m assuming that you still turn the wrench anti clockwise!
The reason why Campagnolo press-fit the bearings onto the crank spindles is to make the cups sacrificial instead of the crank spindle. If you examine other systems with bearings press-fit on the external cups, there's always going to be either a (creaky) plastic sleeve to protect the crank spindle, or the crank spindle (particularly aluminum ones) will show wear marks. I'm not sure about you, but I prefer replacing inexpensive cups than spindles.
Great video, however Campagnolo attached. a sticker to the back of the crank spider that specifically states " Use No Grease Under Bolt of Washer". They also recommend torque of 45 Inch pounds . Just FYI.
Even when Hollowtech or similar system is basically in the point of breaking, it can be taken apart more easily. Working with these is a total pita when those bearings are seized on to the spindle. Also bearing life is shorter on these for some reason. Dunno if their bearings or seals are just bad or is it the design thing. Makes me think of an Italian car manufacturer where there's a lot of expensive proprietary parts and technologies.
I am riding my current set of bearings well into 10K and they still spin smooth. Cups are outboard BSA threaded, bike is ridden in all weather. I reckon you simply have no experience with anything Campgnolo.
I think you're right about this - Shimano is definitely more tolerant of abuse, but I do think Campag in the hands of a mechanic that knows what they are doing is a more enjoyable shifting experience.
@@UmunhumCycleworks Yea, Campag is made for riders and made to be serviced (if done regularly with proper tools) and Shimano is more of a fit and forget, buy a new one if it breaks.
Unless I’m mistaken, the bolt for all Ultra Torque cranks below Super Record are clockwise/tighten, whereas the Super Record version tightens in a counterclockwise direction.
Campy used to be cool, now they are so far off that they are no longer used. Back in the late 80's and early 90's Campy was the sh!t. Nothing compared to it. No one wants to run it any longer and it is not even going to be in the Tour this year for the first time since it was created. Quirky non standards, as you just showed, and the costs keep the normal consumer away. None of my riding friends use it. Everyone is going DI2 or Etap. OK I am done with my rant. Old Campy is still bad azz. It is beautiful and works great.
Be advised all people with Ultra torque (UT) super record cranks: The super record UT crank use a reversed thread, and not the direction illustrated in this video. I learned the hard way after watching this. Now my crank bolt is rounded and I have to hand it in to a bike shop. Who nows if they can fix it.
Good info - I didn't know! I'll pin your comment so other people can see it.
You might be able to get it out with the back side of the Park Tool t-handle hex keys - they have a rounded bolt extractor.
Not on mine! Mine is righty tighty!
Same as in this and every other video! And yes, it will be very, very tight and you’ll probably need a block of wood or something to jamb under a crank while you loosen it.
@@peterfinlayson1348 Then you don't have super record - which all have lefty tighty titanium bolts.
Great video .
Been using Campagnolo products on my bikes for close to 50 years ,but not into electronic shifting or disc brakes.
I'm new to Campagnolo, but I absolutely love it so far. The shifting feel is second to none.
Addition tip, if I may suggest..
Use a cable tie or string on each of the small loop for the clip, and voila just pull both sides at the same time.
To reinstall the clip, place it on the cup, and adjust near the anchoring holes before installing the crank. Push in the clip onto the two holes, no need for pliers. Done.
This is why I love the internet - great tips from people who know what they are doing. Thanks for sharing!
Good news is that you don’t need the expensive bearing puller or seating tool! I just went to a mate’s place who had a bearing puller. Turned out it was massive as he uses it on trucks. It got the non-drive bearing off with no problem but on the drive side the inside cupping of the crank spider meant it wouldn’t fit. We just removed the chain rings (they needed a good clean anyway!) and then pried the bearing off with a pry (like a large screwdriver with a bent shaft) and paddle with some rubber sheet so we didn’t damage the inside of the spider. Then I used a short length of electrical conduit with a 26mm interior diameter cut straight (important) just a few millimeters longer than necessary to tap the new bearings in. Really simple!
Great clear video on this topic. Enjoyed the summary of pro and con for Campa systems. I am all Campa based and happily so. Every system has quirks. I can work with that. Plus the other brands are quite fugly, which is too high a price to pay on a nice ride.
Glad you enjoyed it! Yeah, I think the Campag stuff is definitely better looking and I really enjoy the shifting performance. Working on it isn't any harder than any other system, although I do notice it being a bit more picky about how clean it is. Shimano can handle being really neglected and gunked up and it'll still shift ok, but I find my Campag prefers being nice and clean.
Great video - can I just check that this procedure is the same for a Campagnolo Ekar where the retaining bolt is on the non drive side. I’m assuming that you still turn the wrench anti clockwise!
The reason why Campagnolo press-fit the bearings onto the crank spindles is to make the cups sacrificial instead of the crank spindle. If you examine other systems with bearings press-fit on the external cups, there's always going to be either a (creaky) plastic sleeve to protect the crank spindle, or the crank spindle (particularly aluminum ones) will show wear marks. I'm not sure about you, but I prefer replacing inexpensive cups than spindles.
"Umunhum"...San Jose? I'm over in Evergreen 👍💪
Campy all the way 🍻
Pretty sure UT came first, PT was a lower cost version that came later
Ah, you're right. My bad. Thanks for pointing out!
Great video, however Campagnolo attached. a sticker to the back of the crank spider that specifically states " Use No Grease Under Bolt of Washer". They also recommend torque of 45 Inch pounds . Just FYI.
Even when Hollowtech or similar system is basically in the point of breaking, it can be taken apart more easily. Working with these is a total pita when those bearings are seized on to the spindle. Also bearing life is shorter on these for some reason. Dunno if their bearings or seals are just bad or is it the design thing. Makes me think of an Italian car manufacturer where there's a lot of expensive proprietary parts and technologies.
I am riding my current set of bearings well into 10K and they still spin smooth. Cups are outboard BSA threaded, bike is ridden in all weather. I reckon you simply have no experience with anything Campgnolo.
@@l.d.t.6327 I have, thing is that our customers don't. Bikes are always in a bad shape when coming into the shop.
I think you're right about this - Shimano is definitely more tolerant of abuse, but I do think Campag in the hands of a mechanic that knows what they are doing is a more enjoyable shifting experience.
@@UmunhumCycleworks Yea, Campag is made for riders and made to be serviced (if done regularly with proper tools) and Shimano is more of a fit and forget, buy a new one if it breaks.
Unless I’m mistaken, the bolt for all Ultra Torque cranks below Super Record are clockwise/tighten, whereas the Super Record version tightens in a counterclockwise direction.
great thanks
You are welcome!
Now i understand why people call Ultratorque a bad design. Compared to Hollowtech this really is a nightmare.
Campy used to be cool, now they are so far off that they are no longer used. Back in the late 80's and early 90's Campy was the sh!t. Nothing compared to it. No one wants to run it any longer and it is not even going to be in the Tour this year for the first time since it was created. Quirky non standards, as you just showed, and the costs keep the normal consumer away. None of my riding friends use it. Everyone is going DI2 or Etap. OK I am done with my rant. Old Campy is still bad azz. It is beautiful and works great.
Everybody´s running Toyota these days, very few Lamborghinis. I believe Toyota is the better car?? Rgr
If I pay UAE enough, they will ride it in the Tour this year.
But not me, I love Campy. I have 6 bike, all of them are campy