Very informative, it is very nice to have a set of tool like that to do a specific job, most particularly you have a bike shop or a cycling team. However, for personal use with 2 on-road bikes, it might not be an economical option to keep such expensive tools where you will only replace a bottom bracket/bearing (specific for this tool) once every 2, 3, or 4 years. I considered getting a kit but my decision steered me to take another direction. Great video !
If you want nitpicky: 1) You don't need to break the chain to remove it from a 1x drvetrain. 2) You don't need to remove the cups from the frame to replace the bearings. And 3) Yes, you should almost always grease or otherwise appropriately treat the surfaces of press-fit bearings and other press-fit fittings to minimize galvanic corrosion and allow future removal without undue force. . . regardless of the internet's failing to adequately educate people in this regard.
Just came to comment on the press fitting - in the machine shops I've worked in / designed parts for, lube was a requirement after one too many had to be chisled out of bores, not for galvanic reasons, but for galling / galling related misalignment causing fractures during insertion. I'm not 100% on galling being an issue on bottom brackets but assuming the housing is aluminum, and the outer race of bearings are steel... that can be a bad time. Professionals can do it without and have no problem, setup being key, but I've seen too many use rubber malets to 'walk the rim' to get them in.
Good video. Very informative on the specific tools. one thing I'd like to mention, did your try to insert the bearing extractor on from the back side first? That makes the most sense to me. Unless of course the closed end of the extractor is to wide to fit through the bearing.
I will have to double check when I get home. I remember thinking the same thing, but I saw in a different video someone assembling it the way I did in this video, so I went with it that way. I will make sure though and report back!
Thanks for the overview, would you suggest any grease or similar when pressing the bearings in ? And what are your thoughts on the lower end ceramic enduro bearings(~$50) ?
Pretty much everything I've found online says to press them in dry - no grease. As for the cheap ceramic bearings, my research seems to point to them being inferior to high quality stainless bearings like NSK and can also last less.
@@UmunhumCycleworks Thanks for clarifying! I just saw that BBInfinite is using retention compound for bearing replacement (in one of their posts) - this might be an outlier however! I will give the amazon tool kit a try soon, and share any experiences here!
Everybody should have learnt meanwhile that ceramic bearings are extremely expensive and extremely stupid in a bike. They are designed for high rev applications in industrial machines (pharmaceutical and food processing machines), not for bikes
Purchased the same Essential Kit. However, for the life of me, I can not get one of the handles to thread on all the way. Did you have a similar experience? Suggestions? Thanks!
So basically I can put super quality bearings into my 17.00 SHimano Deore BB. Spending much less money then upgrading to Chris King BB. Curious, where did you purchase your bearings from?
Yup, 100%! As long as they are the correct size, you can put whatever bearings you want. I got mine from a reputable seller on eBay, but I've had good luck with orders from Roda Victoria if you're in the USA.
หลายเดือนก่อน +1
I have never, ever in my life, cursed at a lifeless video or been this mad at a TH-cam video to write a bad comment. Bro, you're making it too long to say something. Just say it, do it. Oh my God. 20 freaking minutes. TWENTY!
@@UmunhumCycleworks The same and meaningless response you get after entering a restaurant, wanting to eat, and waiting for 2 hours before leaving a bad comment, is: 'If you don't like the restaurant, you can leave.' The purpose of the comments section isn't always to tell you what you want to hear. I hope you learn how to learn. Have a good day.
Don't go ceramic bearing on your bottom bracket. They are not an upgrade. The ceramic balls will dink the races of the bearing very quickly due to lack of elasticity in them and will run rough rather quickly. Ceramic bearings where invented for high rotational speeds and not for irregular loads.
Very informative, it is very nice to have a set of tool like that to do a specific job, most particularly you have a bike shop or a cycling team. However, for personal use with 2 on-road bikes, it might not be an economical option to keep such expensive tools where you will only replace a bottom bracket/bearing (specific for this tool) once every 2, 3, or 4 years. I considered getting a kit but my decision steered me to take another direction. Great video !
Very helpful. Thanks.
I'm glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
If you want nitpicky: 1) You don't need to break the chain to remove it from a 1x drvetrain. 2) You don't need to remove the cups from the frame to replace the bearings. And 3) Yes, you should almost always grease or otherwise appropriately treat the surfaces of press-fit bearings and other press-fit fittings to minimize galvanic corrosion and allow future removal without undue force. . . regardless of the internet's failing to adequately educate people in this regard.
Just came to comment on the press fitting - in the machine shops I've worked in / designed parts for, lube was a requirement after one too many had to be chisled out of bores, not for galvanic reasons, but for galling / galling related misalignment causing fractures during insertion. I'm not 100% on galling being an issue on bottom brackets but assuming the housing is aluminum, and the outer race of bearings are steel... that can be a bad time. Professionals can do it without and have no problem, setup being key, but I've seen too many use rubber malets to 'walk the rim' to get them in.
Good video. Very informative on the specific tools. one thing I'd like to mention, did your try to insert the bearing extractor on from the back side first? That makes the most sense to me. Unless of course the closed end of the extractor is to wide to fit through the bearing.
I was thinking the exact same thing.
I will have to double check when I get home. I remember thinking the same thing, but I saw in a different video someone assembling it the way I did in this video, so I went with it that way. I will make sure though and report back!
Best tutorial video ever
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful!
9:30 bro you should put that puller from inside to the outside , just simple thing. No need of hammering
I spotted that aswell , I wouldnt have any confidence in anything he says after that.
I just lift the chain off of the ring with out breaking the chain much easier.
Fact👍🏻
Why do you look like Seth? Lol Very informative too!
Lol my videos are definitely not as good as his, but I'm glad it was informative!
Fantastic video!
Removing the chain is KEY!! Thanks for the video, just did this last week, i should found your video before, tho... :)
I'm glad it helped! Yeah, removing the chain definitely helps you isolate the noises!
I just lift it off of the ring and crank. On a 1x there is no need to separate it.
Thanks for the overview, would you suggest any grease or similar when pressing the bearings in ? And what are your thoughts on the lower end ceramic enduro bearings(~$50) ?
Pretty much everything I've found online says to press them in dry - no grease.
As for the cheap ceramic bearings, my research seems to point to them being inferior to high quality stainless bearings like NSK and can also last less.
@@UmunhumCycleworks Thanks for clarifying! I just saw that BBInfinite is using retention compound for bearing replacement (in one of their posts) - this might be an outlier however!
I will give the amazon tool kit a try soon, and share any experiences here!
can this be done on a pressfit bb? specifically sram dub BB92?
Recently bought a $12 BB from ebay just for the cups and put 6805 Acer racing Ceramics in. I have about $62 in a super fast smooth BB.
Everybody should have learnt meanwhile that ceramic bearings are extremely expensive and extremely stupid in a bike. They are designed for high rev applications in industrial machines (pharmaceutical and food processing machines), not for bikes
Thanks for the great video, do you have a link to the bearings? I want to try this but not sure which NSK bearings to use
These are the ones I used: amzn.to/4eSwsz7
@@UmunhumCycleworks Thanks, I found them in 6806 VV instead of DD. Not sure if there is a difference. Hope they work.
Purchased the same Essential Kit. However, for the life of me, I can not get one of the handles to thread on all the way. Did you have a similar experience? Suggestions? Thanks!
I would contact Wheels Mfg, they have great customer service. They probably just didn't thread something correctly.
So basically I can put super quality bearings into my 17.00 SHimano Deore BB. Spending much less money then upgrading to Chris King BB. Curious, where did you purchase your bearings from?
Yup, 100%! As long as they are the correct size, you can put whatever bearings you want. I got mine from a reputable seller on eBay, but I've had good luck with orders from Roda Victoria if you're in the USA.
I have never, ever in my life, cursed at a lifeless video or been this mad at a TH-cam video to write a bad comment. Bro, you're making it too long to say something. Just say it, do it. Oh my God. 20 freaking minutes. TWENTY!
Don't watch it then
@@UmunhumCycleworks The same and meaningless response you get after entering a restaurant, wanting to eat, and waiting for 2 hours before leaving a bad comment, is: 'If you don't like the restaurant, you can leave.' The purpose of the comments section isn't always to tell you what you want to hear. I hope you learn how to learn. Have a good day.
Great content. What are the bearing specs for Shimano BSA?
BSA is the type of thread and has nothing to do with the bearings. Shimano has a few bottombracket types: square taper, octalink and hollowtech 2.
Thumbs up for buying the press from an American company and not cheap Chinese crap. Sorry CCP, no money for you here!
Nobody tell him his chainring is wobbly. (joke).
Kids: DANGER: He's a pusher! Just say No.
to much tool for simple removing BB bearings, and as usuall preparation is most expensive
Don't go ceramic bearing on your bottom bracket. They are not an upgrade. The ceramic balls will dink the races of the bearing very quickly due to lack of elasticity in them and will run rough rather quickly. Ceramic bearings where invented for high rotational speeds and not for irregular loads.
Sadly road BBs are different and not easy to rebuild 🙁
I just drill a 2-3mm hole in the bloody cup and hammer 🔨 it out with a nail or a thin short rod. Then I glue the hole with a glue gun or silicone.
Ah, you've seen hambini at work then!