I will be detailed. In fact I'm having a separate wire crimping video to make more room in the next Rat Rig video to focus on firmware. The input shaping will be getting it's own video to cover it in enough detail.
Honestly, this has become my goal for what I want for my next printer. The fact that depending on how I set up the kit, I could get a 400×400×400 printer for under $1000 is amazing
@@duck0star huh, interesting. I was only thinking 400³ because the RatRig site offered that (along with 500³) but knowing that, I might just stick with the 300³ model
So cool! I have built the version 2 with the Orbiter/V6 combo, but this one seems to have improved in all the right places. So I'm green with envy... 😉 Thanks by the way for introducing me to the Orbiter, best 50 bucks I've invested into the printer so far.
That was really easy to watch, and more importantly follow. I like the screen text with extra explanations. Your delivery is much more loose, than when you started and that’s good. Says a lot really. 🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🇦🇺🍀🍀🍀🤓
Gonna be a hard choice, I am considering getting into one of these systems. Voron is top of my list, but I must admit the sourcing does seem to be the most daunting part. This kit system an the printer over all looks cool.
Sourcing a Voron isn’t as bad as it seems. Yeah there are a lot of parts and links, but I think I was able to source from a total of 4 different places (US). Also, there are a few community members that have set up stores to help source quality parts easily. I recommend stopping by the discord to check out the vendors section. Also, vendor section! You can chat with vendors directly, and if you have questions about an order, a product feature or setting, or if you have a problem, you can chat with a person and get actual helpful answers.
I want to echo what Dave said. I've built four different Voron's and the sourcing is not an issue in my experience. The guide is a great starting point and the Discord can help you if you get into a jam.
I’m with you, Nick- tossing up between a RR and a Voron, the latter seems cheaper all up but don’t know if the convenience of a (nearly) complete kit is worth the money. Thanks for the comments of support/advice also, guys.
YES! I just saw the ending where you mentioned the SKR 1.2 pro. I've got one of those I'll be using in my diy 330 x 600mm Corexy I'm building at the moment. Having a tutorial on the SKR 1.2 will be very handy
thanks for this Michael, I have had my rr vcore pro 2 for almost a year now I absolutely love it. Aussie buyers should be aware for the gst/import fees which can really jack up the price. The vcore is absolutely a beast of a printer!
Very cool video series truly appreciate your effort and willingness to share. I am so wanting to build a printer. I also see the techniques used in assembly and interlocking shapes etc. As I want to design and build model Trains chassis and bodies i can see things to reuse in those components as well. I just went to the Older style Micro Swiss Direct Drive, I am locked in to that design on my 10S Pro. I lightened it up by moving to the pancake fan and minimalist Fan shroud design from Victor Bared, It looks nice and tidy. The bed on this machine is magical, thinking of my robotic days the Delta Platform was the fasted and most accurate frame, so the bed on three pivots makes perfect sense. I want to skip ahead and see the results but fun to see how to control this baby too. All the best Great Series, Dennis
this is great and I also had a look at the options on the rat rig page and to be honest, it isnt as price as I thought. Even with the biggest build volume and all parts needed, direct drive hemera etc, I land at around 1,4k which is absolutely fine in my opinion for such a high quality model with a huge build volume!
Its the compact design i liked and modular plus idex Best order a hotend that fits it and get messing just got klipper running properly still got input shaper to set up etc
I've been day dreaming of a 500x500 printer that is also my first core-x-y with .6 or .8 nozzle with the purpose of printing cosplay helmets, RC airplanes, and the parts to build a full scale R2-D2 droid. With a build volume that size the helmets/body armor could be a single piece then the R2-D2 dome could be 1 part instead of the printing of multiple parts that have to be glued and finished when using a smaller bed size printer.
Michael...hurry up I cant wait to see it finished and running. Really impressed with your videos on this assembly. The wait times for the kits are getting longer and I want to see your impressions before I hit the button to order to sepnd 1100Euro....ok too late just bit the bullet and ordered one. No use procrastinating :)
Your content is the best quality i know on the subject . thx ! I can't wait to see if the kinematic bed could be used kind of as a 4th axis ! Might just be "combinable" with the non planar 3D printing thing in slic3r !
i like this more than the voron. a friend of mine was looking to buy one so I cam here :O BLV-mgn cube is also intresting but there's no info on it online, the community is very hidden/close and doesn't like discussing it properly or sharing what speeds they can achieve.
I added the Orbiter V1.5 to my Ender 5 Plus modified with an ExoSlide system and the MicroSwiss hotend. It works great but I have yet to formulate a cooling solution. I downloaded the EVA STLs to see if I can mod the blower mount and duct to suit. I do have a left over Slice Mosquito Magnum and am thinking of a future mod to replace the MicroSwiss maybe with the EVA design... Just Plain Fun!
I'm working on my 300x300x400. Waiting for several parts, but my frame is very good. I'm working in a different bed, with 127V in a 3 mm aluminium plate with a 1.5 mm cork layer and the hotbed over it all.
you can lubricate the Rails from within the trolley, as they should have a hole for this purpose. There are even detailed instructions, how to clean and relubricate the trolleys.
Orbiter looks ok for a extruder deffently a top 3 pick and fits this build very nicely. It also covers your easy build motto as a kit purchase. Other good choices is a sherpa mini and hextravort. The sherpa mini i think is the best and comes as a kit bit weather there is a mount to fit this printer who knows. The hextravort is nice but mostly only fits HevORT printer designs so not really a option for other 3d printers.
@@joshua43214 Hextravort + nova was printing 5min benchies which is 300mm/s and 20k acc. Its based on the nema 14 and bmg hardware this would be its limit i think though. I am making a HevORT HD9 with a v6 volcano and hextravort extruder. It has very nice weight distrabution hotend. I have modded the x carriage to be a mgn9 rail from a mgn12 and using a simplified z axis.
It almost akes me want to build one too ... Well, I'll probably do in some time. :) Unsure if you really need some insulation and "secure" the silicone pad. Adhesive on these are usually really strong. Never had any issue on mine (on a bedslinger style), even when heating it past 120°C and enclosed. Better safe than sorry, though. Btw, that kinematic bed looks sick !
Voron kits can be bought in total from legit online sellers these days. That said the V core has got my attention for its larger size and ability to option better extruder and hot end parts.
@@TeachingTech Fair point. Good mindset to keep as well. One step at a time. I'm definitely looking forward to the rest of this series and building one myself.
I like that EVA design, I might have to take a go at adapting that for my project. Is there anyway you could tell me the X and Y size? I have 60x52mm in front of the rail to work with.
@@TeachingTech I did look before I asked, and I couldnt find anything that said how big the fully assembled EVA design was. I found a PDF file that has some good measurements on it, maybe I missed something.
@@joshua43214 I grabbed the cad files, there still isnt a fully assembled model though. There is a half assembled model, dont worry about it though. I'll assemble the model in cad and figure it out myself.......
I'm a complete noob at 3D printing unless you count the Makeblock that I purchased. The assembly was almost instant, easy to use but died after 26 hours, I get a refund tomorrow. Sooooo, technically I have already spent the money, adding a few more NZ Pesos to move up maybe is in my ability. Hmm ability. Assembly looks like a project in its self, I went to the 'Sam Prentice channel' his enthusiasm, fast talking and technical terms maybe a year or so down the track, might make sense but today it seemed like a car salesman trying to teach me astrophysics. I particularly liked your clip on non planar technique, the comments about the requirement for longer reach hotend clearance and best if the head could tilt. Could the tilt on the Rat Rig V-core 3 bed emulate head tilt? As I know nothing about hotends and nozzles, I did wonder how valid the comment was that mentioned MIG copper nozzles being 25mm long and same thread as a nozzle. If so it would be easy to bang it in a lathe and taper the end down from 9mm to say 3mm over the 25mm at the business end, especially at 10 NZ$ for 5 of them. OK Noobieness over, I like you style on this channel, I can watch and learn without having to google jargon.
Can you explain pro and cons of kinematic bed? And can you post your configuration of this printer? Like, what you have choose in the order page on their site
My configuration is shown in part 1 if you want to follow exactly. For firmware, I'll be using their pre-made Klipper setup but if for some reason I deviate from that I am happy to post it.
Yes, still PETG. Apart from a fan duct, I'm used PLA on printhead parts for other machines. Unless you have a really hot extruder stepper or are printing in a warm enclosure it's generally not a problem.
I think it's cool, that you didn't build a voron. That way I can see cnc kitchen with his voron and you, with your printer and see two different machines, and not the same
If you're going to be printing fast, you might want to consider a different part cooling solution; there's a really good video from the creator of the HeVORT that gives a couple ideas.
Since that video, he’s also mentioned that he has to pump TONS of cooling to cool a 5 or 6 minute benchy. He’s got that crazy fan duct setup, plus a berd air nozzle hooked up to a shop compressor, and he still throws extra fans at it. But that’s for a sub 6 min benchy. For more realistic “fast” speeds, I can’t see why a dual 5015 wouldn’t be sufficient?
@@Crazyates11 Yeah, it's more of a suggestion than a requirement. In my experience, if you print even reasonably fast (≈100 mm/s), two main aspects will suffer if you do not have enough cooling: overhangs over 45˚ (edges/corners will curl and the nozzle can crash into them) and smaller details (high speed + fine detail = less time for the fan to cool that piece). But if you don't really care about those two things, I absolutely agree; a 5015 fan will do just fine for 90% of those faster prints.
The biggest thing pulling me more to the Voron 2.4 for a large printer is that the Bed is stationary and the printhead moves up, if one prints a few kilos in one print, even with linear rails and stable parts, wouldn't wanna risk the bed giving way. And makes temperature stabilization easier since you have a fixed printvolume, with the bed moving down, all of it is lost under the bed.
Bed giving way? Not gonna happen. I designed a filtered recirculation duct for mine to distribute the heat in the printer. Not necessary though since heat rises to the top.
This is still a better design IMO. They did change to a milder pitch on the lead screw, even with the motor unplugged it wont creep down. The Voron design has issues, not the least of which is sacrificing the rigidity of the gantry. Input shaper can alleviate this, but it is a software band aide to fix a pretty major design flaw.
@@joshua43214 At the last Formnext i did see both approaches, fully enclosed big half or one qubic meter volumes with a static Bed at the bottom and also one cubic meter with a moving bed, i think it's a bigger strain lifting the bed including the big aluminum slab and the print , but i guess with anti backlash nuts the strain on the steppers isn't as high and you need less holding torque
@@miklschmidt well i guess i shall get myself 3030 or even 4040 profiles and see how large i can build it, I'm aiming for 1 qubic meter but might go for wide base, since belt printers save space but aren't to my liking yet
1) Unconstrained mounting points - bed plates expand as they heat up. If their mounting points are unmovable, the bed will have no room to expand to the sides, and it will be forced to bow (either upwards or downwards). The V-Core 3 bed plate is not rigidly connected to the machine's frame. Instead, 3 steel balls connected to the bed sit on low friction dowel pins. The pins act like a pair of rails for the steel balls, guiding their movement as the bed expands and ensuring that only radial movement is possible - there's zero margin for lateral movement. This means that while your plate is firmly in place, it can still remain perfectly flat as it expands. The weight of the bed would be enough to ensure that the bed can't move in non-radial directions, but for extra sturdiness, magnets mounted on the Z arms provide additional resistance, to make sure the bed never moves from the intended position. 2) Automatic bed-levelling - forget about having to manually level your bed. Since the bed only has 3 mounting points, which are connected to 3 independently driven Z motors, bed-levelling is exclusively determined by motor position and can be done 100% electronically - simple and instantaneous.
Having to source all the parts separately for a Voron is also what's holding me off. Great choice to review a Rat rig kit, these are not inferior to a Voron in any way.
The bed leveling system is sort of inferior. It uses 3 z motors to level the bed to the gantry, while the Voron 2.4 uses 4. Since the bed isn’t 100% flat, 3 point leveling is inferior. Also, this printer isn’t as easy to enclose which means worse performance for higher temp materials.
@@TeachingTech That’s what i meant. They use something called quad gantry leveling to probe each corner and get an accurate level of the gantry to the bed on all 4 corners with the 4 motors. This is because it’s unique in that the gantry is floating. They also do normal mesh bed leveling subsequently. You should check em out! its a great community.
@@GRuizMedia doesn't the bed of the RR heat up your enclosure faster because it's high up? I would think it would take ages for the V2.4 to heat up the enclosure with it sitting in the bottom... are there any reports on this? That's the only thing pushing me to the RR, looking for good PC and Nylon printing performance. Reason why so many like the V0 is because the enclosure is so small it heats up fast. RR should also heat up fast..
@@karoo_bushman6880 actually that shouldn't make a big difference at all. but if you really care about it heating up fast, there is a mod in the Voron community called the nevermore. It's basically a fan unit that goes under the bed on a V2.4 that redistributes the hot air. This way, the chamber heats up like 4x faster. It's a real game-changer. Also, you can add a carbon filter to it so that it can filter out any toxic fumes that come from ABS.
Is the magnetic sticker able to withstand temperatures above 80 degrees? Another thing that worries me a bit....when heating up de bed to 100 degrees or up for printing ABS, PC....is the heat from the bed transferred to the ball joints able to damage the printed arms carrying the hotbed? Or won't that be a potential problem?
the flex plate system rat rig sells is rated for 130c if i remember correctly. If you're enclosing and / or printing high temp filaments, it's a good idea to print at least the arms and the EVA carriage out of a material with better thermal resistance. Haven't seen issues with the arms yet, but better safe than sorry.
How is their linear rail quality? I recently bought some linear rails from china and man were they rough, I had to stone the rails and replace the ball bearings to get something I was comfortable with using on my printer.
When I built the Seckit it was the first one in the wild and things were a work in progress. These instructions are better but I'm not sure how the Seckit instructions have progressed. Nothing to stop you comparing both side by side.
The Lowrider2 was intended to have a laser originally, but the laser I had lined up for it was no where near as effective as advertised. Look up my Endurance laser review and have a gander at the description too.
This build is starting to grow on me and I am looking forward to the next part. Is there any objection to print the parts needed for this build in ASA/ABS or even nylon in stead of PETG? For precision and quality freaks....as I understood the Linear rails and blocks or no genuine HiWins. Is there the option to order this kit with genuine HiWin linear rails or the option to order this kit without the rails and blocks and source them yourself? What are the lengths of the rails used for a 300mm build and which blocks are used (12C or 12H)?? Thanks for the video's and keep up the good work.
For the filament choice, I don't see any problem with any selection. All of your other questions can be answered by following the link to the website. The whole printer is open source and you also have a CAD model linked you can take measurements from.
Possible at some point to do a Core-XY where the bed is stationary? Seen a similar design, but where the carriage for the X and Y drives is what moves in Z (also on 4 lead screws and allowing for adjustment in level), while the bed is just hard bolted to the base frame. Kinematically, it seems best to have all your movement being in the head, and eliminating any movement of the bed. But if the bed is going to move, best for it to just be in Z.
Yes, that’s what a Voron 2.4 is known for. The whole XY gantry moves along the z axis and the bed is completely stationary, bolted to the frame. The XY gantry even self levels itself to the flat bed. A Voron 1.8 is a more traditional corexy where the xy are stationary and the z moves. The Voron 0 is similar to a 1.8, but just mini.
It perfectly accommodates thermal expansion which results in less warping of the bed plate over time as it goes through heat cycles. It also allows for automatic true bed leveling.
Cant wait for the next part , I wish to buy one myself one thing holds me back ,in your opinion can you switch the nozzle to a 0.6 for extra fast prints ,and is it suitable for series production ? Thanks 🙂🖐️
@@liamventer 🙂Thanks ! , what kind of extruder heat block hotend combo is suitable for ,like an Asa, or Abs prints at 300-400mm/s or even higher ? ,since there is a lot of material flow that has to heated at a very high speed
The Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum I have going on has one handed nozzle changes, which I'm keen to try. It's also designed to melt and flow a lot of plastic. They have a plus version too but it's not available yet.
You can most definitely use an inductive probe (my preference as well) EVA supports m8, m12 and m18 cylindrical probes :) You can check it out on the EVA page.
@@eva-3d948 Oh, I see. So, there's possibility to build the bed with 4 points if I want very rigid bed and no play on XZ/YZ plane but it will be redundant, right ?
Awesome content. Would it be possible that you could print some "large" objects for us with it like large vase-mode models etc. I'm considering it for printing molds for ceramics and I'd like to see how it behaves when you print large thin walled objects etc...
This is a realy expensive 3d printer , on Brazil the price without shipping is R$ 7400,00 , its equivalent of a 3 years of saving money spending the minimum possible (the average wage in Brazil is R$ 1000,00 about US$ 186,96 , and €152,97)
I think the problem with that it isn't necessarily how the bed moves thats the problem, but moreso the clearance that the nozzle will need to follow all the contours
Mostly. I think software support for that would be difficult given the complexity of the physical setup. Another thing limiting the process is the clearance angle of the hotend. Something like a super volcano might help.
So any reason why you choose BL Touch instead of EZABL? I want to order a Rat Rig too. Right now I print mostly on Glas (ABS) and FR4 and BL Touch. As I ruined my BL already once as it had a collision with a part, I think about moving to the EZABL for the RatRig. Would be nice to hear your opinion. I am also not sure if I should go for the 400 or 500mm Version? I guess for a CoreXY Printer a big bed size which only moves down is not that big of a problem compared with a Bed that moves in Y direction? So my thoughts are, quality wise there should no big downside to go big with the CoreXY?
What are your thoughts on the BTT Octopus or the Fysetc Spider? They both look like very capable boards with some great features and very reasonably priced. I'm thinking of ordering one to use the Core 3.
Provided you run Klipper, the board only needs to have sufficient drivers and other assorted connectors. I believe the Spider has all the connectivity, but delivery time might be greater than that of the V-Core itself. I went with the 1.2pro for that reason. Cost was about the same iir
@@joshua43214 Good point. I ordered my V-Core 3 yesterday and a Fystec Spyder from Aliexpress. I has more drivers than I need. Got it with 8 - 2209 drivers and a mini display for $70. I think it should arrive about the same time as the Rat Rig
@@woodwaker1 I ordered my 1.2pro with 2209 drivers from the BTT store on Amazon, cost about $82.00. It was worth the extra to know that the item actually exists, and arrived a couple days later. The Spiders I believe are still being backordered in batches.
@@joshua43214 Thanks for the update. I'll keep that as a backup. I should have checked other sources. I was looking at the $121 price on the Rat Rig configuration page.
Hi @Teaching Tech , Super nice build serries. Decided to build my net printer as a Rat Rig due to you clips. I have 2 questions I hope you can share your experince with me; 1. I read some people have problems with the Orbitter Stepper overheating. How is your experience in this? 2. If you add the E3D V6 hotend to the weight, would you not be better off with a BiQu H2 extruder that has the hotend integrated and looks about the same All-Up-Weight? Hope you decide to share your experience with me/us! (ps. I LOVE your printer-tuning website!)
i wish someone comapred the v-slot version to the rail version. i'm gonna make my own printer once i'm out of iran. i wanna use cheap carbon fiber for the X axis to save like 100g. not my idea some other youtuber's idea :O i'm so hyped. I'm gonna do tilting hotends there
I wonder how this 3D printer is controlled? Where is that little LCD screen that every 3D printer has and through which all 3D printer settings are controlled?
He’s using a raspberry pi, and I’m assuming octopi into and kipper. The rpi connects to your WiFi, and you send the gcode to that via a web interface. Then the rpi tells the board what to do. Michael has other videos on octoprint and klipper, so maybe check those out?
@@Crazyates11 Thanks for the reply... Hmmm ... if I understand correctly, you always need a laptop or other external computer unit (PC, laptop, tablet pc, mobile phone, ...) to control a 3D printer? If this is true it is quite awkward to operate one or two printers. I assume that RatRig was created to connect a lot of printers to a farm where printers are much easier to control via Octoprint? But still ... is it possible and how difficult would it be to mount the LCD screen directly to the printer frame and connect it to the board....just like with the Voron 2.4?
@@pyrosnap4524 You can add any interface you want. Klipper has many. For web interfaces octoprint is definitely one of them but there are much nicer options such as Fluidd or Mainsail. You can absolutely add an LCD if you want, you can also add an HDMI touch screen (connected to the RPi) and run KlipperScreen on it for a much nicer touch interface.
@@marNL1970 No the SKR Pro 1.2 can do 6. The SKR 1.3 and 1.4 (there's no SKR Pro 1.3 or 1.4) can do 5. You can add an EXP MOT for 3 additional steppers though. V-CoreOS supports SKR Pro 1.2 out of the box, so almost no setup is required.
@@miklschmidt Thanks and Indeed....V1.4 (and I meant this one in my earlier post) supports standard 5 stepsticks, V1.2 Pro does 6 standard. I wonder, and this is another question: it happens to be I have 2 Fysetc S6 (ST32F446) controllers here on my desk. These support 6 stepsticks. Can they be used for the RatRig V-Core?
@@marNL1970 Absolutely, you'll just have to do the setup yourself, you can always use the V-CoreOS config files as inspiration :) We're working on adding support for more boards.
Please be detailed on part 3, this is where most people will need to be walked through.
Agree with Frank 104%.
he said, dont't follow the video. follow the guide
I will be detailed. In fact I'm having a separate wire crimping video to make more room in the next Rat Rig video to focus on firmware. The input shaping will be getting it's own video to cover it in enough detail.
Its pretty cool to see kinematic beds become something common on diy hobbyist printers
Has been a thing for years though
Honestly, this has become my goal for what I want for my next printer. The fact that depending on how I set up the kit, I could get a 400×400×400 printer for under $1000 is amazing
Do note that a 400^2 is pushing corexy to its limit in workable size. Personally I wouldn't go bigger then 350^2
@@duck0star why is that?
@@Thierry080 because of the way belts are working and also stress on systems
@@duck0star huh, interesting. I was only thinking 400³ because the RatRig site offered that (along with 500³) but knowing that, I might just stick with the 300³ model
Maybe jump on the Facebook group and see if the 400mm versions are meeting their user's expectations?
So cool! I have built the version 2 with the Orbiter/V6 combo, but this one seems to have improved in all the right places. So I'm green with envy... 😉 Thanks by the way for introducing me to the Orbiter, best 50 bucks I've invested into the printer so far.
I'm happy with mine too on the Seckit. Expecting it to be great on this too.
A kinematic bed seems well-suited to non-planar printing, since it could keep the nozzle normal to the part surface.
Yes, if only someone would come up with the programming
Imagine a kinematic bed coupled with the Vorons flying gantry for non planar printing
@@emanprime3679 question: what do function/movements did you have in mind should the bed do/have?
@@fearlyenrage For example for the roof of the Benchy, slant the bed so it does not need to be printed in steps but is just 1 smooth surface.
I think this is amazing and so innovative. Thank You for being on the leading edge of giving power to the people.
I'm just the messenger here, all credit to the designers.
@@TeachingTech where would the world be without messengers? Thanks again!
That was really easy to watch, and more importantly follow. I like the screen text with extra explanations.
Your delivery is much more loose, than when you started and that’s good.
Says a lot really.
🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🇦🇺🍀🍀🍀🤓
Gonna be a hard choice, I am considering getting into one of these systems. Voron is top of my list, but I must admit the sourcing does seem to be the most daunting part. This kit system an the printer over all looks cool.
Sourcing a Voron isn’t as bad as it seems. Yeah there are a lot of parts and links, but I think I was able to source from a total of 4 different places (US). Also, there are a few community members that have set up stores to help source quality parts easily. I recommend stopping by the discord to check out the vendors section. Also, vendor section! You can chat with vendors directly, and if you have questions about an order, a product feature or setting, or if you have a problem, you can chat with a person and get actual helpful answers.
I want to echo what Dave said. I've built four different Voron's and the sourcing is not an issue in my experience. The guide is a great starting point and the Discord can help you if you get into a jam.
I’m with you, Nick- tossing up between a RR and a Voron, the latter seems cheaper all up but don’t know if the convenience of a (nearly) complete kit is worth the money.
Thanks for the comments of support/advice also, guys.
YES! I just saw the ending where you mentioned the SKR 1.2 pro. I've got one of those I'll be using in my diy 330 x 600mm Corexy I'm building at the moment. Having a tutorial on the SKR 1.2 will be very handy
You made the right choice over the Voron, The Rig is far less complicated and the bed is second to none.
I've recently started adding the karate chop to the end of my projects. So far nothing has failed.
It's a proven pro technique!
thanks for this Michael,
I have had my rr vcore pro 2 for almost a year now I absolutely love it.
Aussie buyers should be aware for the gst/import fees which can really jack up the price.
The vcore is absolutely a beast of a printer!
Aussie potential buyer here, Thanks for the heads up!
Very cool video series truly appreciate your effort and willingness to share. I am so wanting to build a printer. I also see the techniques used in assembly and interlocking shapes etc. As I want to design and build model Trains chassis and bodies i can see things to reuse in those components as well. I just went to the Older style Micro Swiss Direct Drive, I am locked in to that design on my 10S Pro. I lightened it up by moving to the pancake fan and minimalist Fan shroud design from Victor Bared, It looks nice and tidy. The bed on this machine is magical, thinking of my robotic days the Delta Platform was the fasted and most accurate frame, so the bed on three pivots makes perfect sense. I want to skip ahead and see the results but fun to see how to control this baby too. All the best Great Series, Dennis
this is great and I also had a look at the options on the rat rig page and to be honest, it isnt as price as I thought. Even with the biggest build volume and all parts needed, direct drive hemera etc, I land at around 1,4k which is absolutely fine in my opinion for such a high quality model with a huge build volume!
ah, finally! The wait was becoming unbearable :D as always, good stuff ^^
Aww crap! I'm caught up with Micheal's videos. Now I have to wait till notifications come in.
this looks sooo good!.. it's more than 3 times above my budget but it really looks like a fun proyect for a 2nd or 3rd 3D printer..
Its the compact design i liked and modular plus idex
Best order a hotend that fits it and get messing just got klipper running properly still got input shaper to set up etc
I've been day dreaming of a 500x500 printer that is also my first core-x-y with .6 or .8 nozzle with the purpose of printing cosplay helmets, RC airplanes, and the parts to build a full scale R2-D2 droid. With a build volume that size the helmets/body armor could be a single piece then the R2-D2 dome could be 1 part instead of the printing of multiple parts that have to be glued and finished when using a smaller bed size printer.
That would be a good use for this printer. Check out Sam Prentice's channel linked in the description, you'll probably like what he makes.
Michael...hurry up I cant wait to see it finished and running. Really impressed with your videos on this assembly. The wait times for the kits are getting longer and I want to see your impressions before I hit the button to order to sepnd 1100Euro....ok too late just bit the bullet and ordered one. No use procrastinating :)
Your content is the best quality i know on the subject . thx ! I can't wait to see if the kinematic bed could be used kind of as a 4th axis ! Might just be "combinable" with the non planar 3D printing thing in slic3r !
i like this more than the voron. a friend of mine was looking to buy one so I cam here :O
BLV-mgn cube is also intresting but there's no info on it online, the community is very hidden/close and doesn't like discussing it properly or sharing what speeds they can achieve.
I got KillerBee from RatRig and yet to build one. But their quality is on point!
Thanks for the shout out dude :) - great video
Great video Michael , Always very detailed.
Great design
Great video and walkthrough
Thanks for sharing you experience to all of us👍😀
Exciting stuff. Can't wait to see this fella spitting filament.
I added the Orbiter V1.5 to my Ender 5 Plus modified with an ExoSlide system and the MicroSwiss hotend. It works great but I have yet to formulate a cooling solution. I downloaded the EVA STLs to see if I can mod the blower mount and duct to suit. I do have a left over Slice Mosquito Magnum and am thinking of a future mod to replace the MicroSwiss maybe with the EVA design... Just Plain Fun!
Amazing video. Very well done and well resumed. congrats!
After watching the first part, I ended up ordering one as well. Great video
I'm working on my 300x300x400. Waiting for several parts, but my frame is very good.
I'm working in a different bed, with 127V in a 3 mm aluminium plate with a 1.5 mm cork layer and the hotbed over it all.
3mm is too thin. 6-8mm is the best!
you can lubricate the Rails from within the trolley, as they should have a hole for this purpose. There are even detailed instructions, how to clean and relubricate the trolleys.
The good old twack.
As useful as ever.
Can't wait to see this beast running
Nice job, great printer design!!!
I love this series!!! Your best series.
finally part 2 been waiting for this ordered mine a week ago :D
Orbiter looks ok for a extruder deffently a top 3 pick and fits this build very nicely. It also covers your easy build motto as a kit purchase.
Other good choices is a sherpa mini and hextravort. The sherpa mini i think is the best and comes as a kit bit weather there is a mount to fit this printer who knows. The hextravort is nice but mostly only fits HevORT printer designs so not really a option for other 3d printers.
It's a big printer, only real choice IMO is the LGX + Volcano. The Orbiter does not really move much plastic
@@joshua43214 Hextravort + nova was printing 5min benchies which is 300mm/s and 20k acc. Its based on the nema 14 and bmg hardware this would be its limit i think though.
I am making a HevORT HD9 with a v6 volcano and hextravort extruder. It has very nice weight distrabution hotend. I have modded the x carriage to be a mgn9 rail from a mgn12 and using a simplified z axis.
It almost akes me want to build one too ... Well, I'll probably do in some time. :)
Unsure if you really need some insulation and "secure" the silicone pad. Adhesive on these are usually really strong. Never had any issue on mine (on a bedslinger style), even when heating it past 120°C and enclosed. Better safe than sorry, though.
Btw, that kinematic bed looks sick !
Very good video :-) just waiting to get my kit! :-)
I don't *_need_* a core XY printer.
...But that's not stopping me from trying to find a reason.
You are so calm.
the section starting at 9:15 has the word heartbreak instead of heatbreak (just a fyi)
Hahahaha good one
Whoops :D
"At least 2 million people asked why i didnt pick a Voron..."
I was at least 30 of those 2 million.
They are similar
The voron community is much bigger so you have more help
A 2.4 is very nice
2.4 is sexy but V-core is more of beefy yet somewhat affordable
With the angles that bed can achieve, I have to think it's only a matter of time until one of the 3D printing Illuminati implement true 5d printing.
If you're going to do a Voron, try the Trident.. it's really an under-rated printer!
Thanks for the shout out :)
That filament holder though!
Voron kits can be bought in total from legit online sellers these days. That said the V core has got my attention for its larger size and ability to option better extruder and hot end parts.
I'm highly intimidated to build one of these in the future, but...damn does this look fun.
Just a series of simple steps. Nothing yet I think is harder than putting together something like an Ender 3, just obviously a lot more steps.
@@TeachingTech Fair point. Good mindset to keep as well. One step at a time. I'm definitely looking forward to the rest of this series and building one myself.
Just a waiting game. my 500x500x500 will be huge.
I like that EVA design, I might have to take a go at adapting that for my project. Is there anyway you could tell me the X and Y size? I have 60x52mm in front of the rail to work with.
You can get the cad files and stl's from the EVA website.
Yes please refence the links in the description. Any possible information you want is there.
@@TeachingTech I did look before I asked, and I couldnt find anything that said how big the fully assembled EVA design was. I found a PDF file that has some good measurements on it, maybe I missed something.
@@jon9947 get the cad files...
@@joshua43214 I grabbed the cad files, there still isnt a fully assembled model though. There is a half assembled model, dont worry about it though. I'll assemble the model in cad and figure it out myself.......
I'm a complete noob at 3D printing unless you count the Makeblock that I purchased.
The assembly was almost instant, easy to use but died after 26 hours, I get a refund tomorrow.
Sooooo, technically I have already spent the money, adding a few more NZ Pesos to move up maybe is in my ability.
Hmm ability.
Assembly looks like a project in its self, I went to the 'Sam Prentice channel' his enthusiasm, fast talking and technical terms maybe a year or so down the track, might make sense but today it seemed like a car salesman trying to teach me astrophysics.
I particularly liked your clip on non planar technique, the comments about the requirement for longer reach hotend clearance and best if the head could tilt.
Could the tilt on the Rat Rig V-core 3 bed emulate head tilt?
As I know nothing about hotends and nozzles, I did wonder how valid the comment was that mentioned MIG copper nozzles being 25mm long and same thread as a nozzle.
If so it would be easy to bang it in a lathe and taper the end down from 9mm to say 3mm over the 25mm at the business end, especially at 10 NZ$ for 5 of them.
OK Noobieness over, I like you style on this channel, I can watch and learn without having to google jargon.
In Part 1 you talked about the (Optional) inner frame panel and the dxf files. Will you release a dxf file with holes for skr pro 1.2?
Yes. Everything fits so they will be released with the video.
Can you explain pro and cons of kinematic bed? And can you post your configuration of this printer? Like, what you have choose in the order page on their site
My configuration is shown in part 1 if you want to follow exactly. For firmware, I'll be using their pre-made Klipper setup but if for some reason I deviate from that I am happy to post it.
Interested if you continued to print the parts in PETG? I'd have thought that ABS would have been much better for all your toolhead parts...
Yes, still PETG. Apart from a fan duct, I'm used PLA on printhead parts for other machines. Unless you have a really hot extruder stepper or are printing in a warm enclosure it's generally not a problem.
I think it's cool, that you didn't build a voron. That way I can see cnc kitchen with his voron and you, with your printer and see two different machines, and not the same
Variety is the spice of life.
If you're going to be printing fast, you might want to consider a different part cooling solution; there's a really good video from the creator of the HeVORT that gives a couple ideas.
Maybe post a link to the video you're referring to?
@@Graham_Wideman th-cam.com/video/65FVQ1jArME/w-d-xo.html
Since that video, he’s also mentioned that he has to pump TONS of cooling to cool a 5 or 6 minute benchy. He’s got that crazy fan duct setup, plus a berd air nozzle hooked up to a shop compressor, and he still throws extra fans at it.
But that’s for a sub 6 min benchy. For more realistic “fast” speeds, I can’t see why a dual 5015 wouldn’t be sufficient?
@@Crazyates11 Yeah, it's more of a suggestion than a requirement. In my experience, if you print even reasonably fast (≈100 mm/s), two main aspects will suffer if you do not have enough cooling: overhangs over 45˚ (edges/corners will curl and the nozzle can crash into them) and smaller details (high speed + fine detail = less time for the fan to cool that piece). But if you don't really care about those two things, I absolutely agree; a 5015 fan will do just fine for 90% of those faster prints.
The biggest thing pulling me more to the Voron 2.4 for a large printer is that the Bed is stationary and the printhead moves up, if one prints a few kilos in one print, even with linear rails and stable parts, wouldn't wanna risk the bed giving way. And makes temperature stabilization easier since you have a fixed printvolume, with the bed moving down, all of it is lost under the bed.
Bed giving way? Not gonna happen. I designed a filtered recirculation duct for mine to distribute the heat in the printer. Not necessary though since heat rises to the top.
This is still a better design IMO. They did change to a milder pitch on the lead screw, even with the motor unplugged it wont creep down. The Voron design has issues, not the least of which is sacrificing the rigidity of the gantry. Input shaper can alleviate this, but it is a software band aide to fix a pretty major design flaw.
@@joshua43214 At the last Formnext i did see both approaches, fully enclosed big half or one qubic meter volumes with a static Bed at the bottom and also one cubic meter with a moving bed, i think it's a bigger strain lifting the bed including the big aluminum slab and the print , but i guess with anti backlash nuts the strain on the steppers isn't as high and you need less holding torque
@@joshua43214 then again at bigger sizes i would probably start thinking about nema23
@@miklschmidt well i guess i shall get myself 3030 or even 4040 profiles and see how large i can build it, I'm aiming for 1 qubic meter but might go for wide base, since belt printers save space but aren't to my liking yet
What are the advantages of using a kinematic bed?
1) Unconstrained mounting points - bed plates expand as they heat up. If their mounting points are unmovable, the bed will have no room to expand to the sides, and it will be forced to bow (either upwards or downwards). The V-Core 3 bed plate is not rigidly connected to the machine's frame. Instead, 3 steel balls connected to the bed sit on low friction dowel pins. The pins act like a pair of rails for the steel balls, guiding their movement as the bed expands and ensuring that only radial movement is possible - there's zero margin for lateral movement. This means that while your plate is firmly in place, it can still remain perfectly flat as it expands. The weight of the bed would be enough to ensure that the bed can't move in non-radial directions, but for extra sturdiness, magnets mounted on the Z arms provide additional resistance, to make sure the bed never moves from the intended position. 2) Automatic bed-levelling - forget about having to manually level your bed. Since the bed only has 3 mounting points, which are connected to 3 independently driven Z motors, bed-levelling is exclusively determined by motor position and can be done 100% electronically - simple and instantaneous.
Having to source all the parts separately for a Voron is also what's holding me off.
Great choice to review a Rat rig kit, these are not inferior to a Voron in any way.
The bed leveling system is sort of inferior. It uses 3 z motors to level the bed to the gantry, while the Voron 2.4 uses 4. Since the bed isn’t 100% flat, 3 point leveling is inferior. Also, this printer isn’t as easy to enclose which means worse performance for higher temp materials.
4 stepper motors isn't going to fix a warped be either, unless you are using them for mesh compensation. But then a single Z stepper can do that.
@@TeachingTech That’s what i meant. They use something called quad gantry leveling to probe each corner and get an accurate level of the gantry to the bed on all 4 corners with the 4 motors. This is because it’s unique in that the gantry is floating. They also do normal mesh bed leveling subsequently. You should check em out! its a great community.
@@GRuizMedia doesn't the bed of the RR heat up your enclosure faster because it's high up? I would think it would take ages for the V2.4 to heat up the enclosure with it sitting in the bottom... are there any reports on this? That's the only thing pushing me to the RR, looking for good PC and Nylon printing performance. Reason why so many like the V0 is because the enclosure is so small it heats up fast. RR should also heat up fast..
@@karoo_bushman6880 actually that shouldn't make a big difference at all. but if you really care about it heating up fast, there is a mod in the Voron community called the nevermore. It's basically a fan unit that goes under the bed on a V2.4 that redistributes the hot air. This way, the chamber heats up like 4x faster. It's a real game-changer. Also, you can add a carbon filter to it so that it can filter out any toxic fumes that come from ABS.
Is the magnetic sticker able to withstand temperatures above 80 degrees? Another thing that worries me a bit....when heating up de bed to 100 degrees or up for printing ABS, PC....is the heat from the bed transferred to the ball joints able to damage the printed arms carrying the hotbed? Or won't that be a potential problem?
the flex plate system rat rig sells is rated for 130c if i remember correctly. If you're enclosing and / or printing high temp filaments, it's a good idea to print at least the arms and the EVA carriage out of a material with better thermal resistance. Haven't seen issues with the arms yet, but better safe than sorry.
How is their linear rail quality? I recently bought some linear rails from china and man were they rough, I had to stone the rails and replace the ball bearings to get something I was comfortable with using on my printer.
So far so good. No sticky points, everything slides nicely across the range of motion.
besides your amazing content. between the rat rig and the sekit go what has the better instructions to follow?
When I built the Seckit it was the first one in the wild and things were a work in progress. These instructions are better but I'm not sure how the Seckit instructions have progressed. Nothing to stop you comparing both side by side.
Why aren't you installing a thermal fuse on the bed, just in case the SSR fails?
The custom Keenovo Heat Pad sold with the printer already includes a thermal fuse.
Can you do a install video on your lowrider 2 laser mod? Awesome vids. Keep up the awesome work.
The Lowrider2 was intended to have a laser originally, but the laser I had lined up for it was no where near as effective as advertised. Look up my Endurance laser review and have a gander at the description too.
My guy is leaning into the karate chop thing, lol
Ordered a RatRig myself because of your series! Is there any concern of creeping and fatigue over time from the 3 printed bed mounts?
I've never had this on any other machines so I wouldn't expect it. Even if it does, the kinematic levelling should take care of it.
This build is starting to grow on me and I am looking forward to the next part. Is there any objection to print the parts needed for this build in ASA/ABS or even nylon in stead of PETG? For precision and quality freaks....as I understood the Linear rails and blocks or no genuine HiWins. Is there the option to order this kit with genuine HiWin linear rails or the option to order this kit without the rails and blocks and source them yourself? What are the lengths of the rails used for a 300mm build and which blocks are used (12C or 12H)?? Thanks for the video's and keep up the good work.
For the filament choice, I don't see any problem with any selection. All of your other questions can be answered by following the link to the website. The whole printer is open source and you also have a CAD model linked you can take measurements from.
Possible at some point to do a Core-XY where the bed is stationary? Seen a similar design, but where the carriage for the X and Y drives is what moves in Z (also on 4 lead screws and allowing for adjustment in level), while the bed is just hard bolted to the base frame. Kinematically, it seems best to have all your movement being in the head, and eliminating any movement of the bed. But if the bed is going to move, best for it to just be in Z.
Yes, that’s what a Voron 2.4 is known for. The whole XY gantry moves along the z axis and the bed is completely stationary, bolted to the frame. The XY gantry even self levels itself to the flat bed.
A Voron 1.8 is a more traditional corexy where the xy are stationary and the z moves. The Voron 0 is similar to a 1.8, but just mini.
Any particular reason why you didnt go for the new SKR Octopus for this build ? Also will you be reviewing this board soon Michael ?
What benefits does having a bed that can move like that have?
It perfectly accommodates thermal expansion which results in less warping of the bed plate over time as it goes through heat cycles. It also allows for automatic true bed leveling.
@@miklschmidt fascinating, thanks 😊
Tempted to ask why you’re not building a Voron😂. This also looks like a nice printer, enjoying the build series👍
Cant wait for the next part , I wish to buy one myself one thing holds me back ,in your opinion can you switch the nozzle to a 0.6 for extra fast prints ,and is it suitable for series production ? Thanks 🙂🖐️
Yes no problem switching nozzles.
@@liamventer 🙂Thanks ! , what kind of extruder heat block hotend combo is suitable for ,like an Asa, or Abs prints at 300-400mm/s or even higher ? ,since there is a lot of material flow that has to heated at a very high speed
The Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum I have going on has one handed nozzle changes, which I'm keen to try. It's also designed to melt and flow a lot of plastic. They have a plus version too but it's not available yet.
Thanks Michael ! I heard a lot of good thoughts about the Mosquito hotend now you convinced me that its worth the investment .🙂✌️
Master Class Video ‼️😃
I really do like your martial arts videos.
How much it cost you to build the whole build ? (including the filament as well)
I'll add it all up at the end once it's printing.
Can you use a Inductive Probe or do you need a BLTouch ?
You can most definitely use an inductive probe (my preference as well) EVA supports m8, m12 and m18 cylindrical probes :) You can check it out on the EVA page.
Do you have any info on doing dual extrusion with this printer? I still feel like for FDM to be super versatile we need to use soluble supports
Complete in the same page with you! Idex will cut print volume, maybe tool change with 2 independent heads?
I have question, why does the kinematic bed only need 3 points on z axis ? Isn't 4 points better than 3 points ?
@@eva-3d948 Oh, I see. So, there's possibility to build the bed with 4 points if I want very rigid bed and no play on XZ/YZ plane but it will be redundant, right ?
@@eva-3d948 Thank you, that helps a lot
Hello. What is the wall count that I should use for the EVA ?
Awesome content. Would it be possible that you could print some "large" objects for us with it like large vase-mode models etc. I'm considering it for printing molds for ceramics and I'd like to see how it behaves when you print large thin walled objects etc...
How did you install the grounding hardware since the magnetic bed partially covers the grounding hole?
What kind of filament was used on this build?
PETG. More details on that in part 1.
This is a realy expensive 3d printer , on Brazil the price without shipping is R$ 7400,00 , its equivalent of a 3 years of saving money spending the minimum possible (the average wage in Brazil is R$ 1000,00 about US$ 186,96 , and €152,97)
Can you move from 2.5D printing to real 3D printing with a moving table?
I think the problem with that it isn't necessarily how the bed moves thats the problem, but moreso the clearance that the nozzle will need to follow all the contours
Mostly. I think software support for that would be difficult given the complexity of the physical setup. Another thing limiting the process is the clearance angle of the hotend. Something like a super volcano might help.
@@jasonking7570 Do you mean CNC TCP?
@@Techknowdude it seems we all need to switch for x64 motherboards soon
@@SergeiPetrov CNC TCP? I'm not quite sure what that means
So any reason why you choose BL Touch instead of EZABL? I want to order a Rat Rig too. Right now I print mostly on Glas (ABS) and FR4 and BL Touch. As I ruined my BL already once as it had a collision with a part, I think about moving to the EZABL for the RatRig. Would be nice to hear your opinion. I am also not sure if I should go for the 400 or 500mm Version? I guess for a CoreXY Printer a big bed size which only moves down is not that big of a problem compared with a Bed that moves in Y direction? So my thoughts are, quality wise there should no big downside to go big with the CoreXY?
Michael, what matertial did you use to print the parts? PETG?
Yes. More details on the printing settings in part 1.
So... when you gonna build a K2 or K3 ?
+1
What are your thoughts on the BTT Octopus or the Fysetc Spider? They both look like very capable boards with some great features and very reasonably priced. I'm thinking of ordering one to use the Core 3.
Provided you run Klipper, the board only needs to have sufficient drivers and other assorted connectors. I believe the Spider has all the connectivity, but delivery time might be greater than that of the V-Core itself. I went with the 1.2pro for that reason. Cost was about the same iir
@@joshua43214 Good point. I ordered my V-Core 3 yesterday and a Fystec Spyder from Aliexpress. I has more drivers than I need. Got it with 8 - 2209 drivers and a mini display for $70. I think it should arrive about the same time as the Rat Rig
@@woodwaker1 I ordered my 1.2pro with 2209 drivers from the BTT store on Amazon, cost about $82.00.
It was worth the extra to know that the item actually exists, and arrived a couple days later. The Spiders I believe are still being backordered in batches.
@@joshua43214 Thanks for the update. I'll keep that as a backup. I should have checked other sources. I was looking at the $121 price on the Rat Rig configuration page.
@@woodwaker1 Ya, not only is stuff insanely expensive in Europe, they also add on the VAT.
Thank you.
Hi @Teaching Tech , Super nice build serries. Decided to build my net printer as a Rat Rig due to you clips. I have 2 questions I hope you can share your experince with me; 1. I read some people have problems with the Orbitter Stepper overheating. How is your experience in this? 2. If you add the E3D V6 hotend to the weight, would you not be better off with a BiQu H2 extruder that has the hotend integrated and looks about the same All-Up-Weight? Hope you decide to share your experience with me/us! (ps. I LOVE your printer-tuning website!)
Is just buying a whole, complete Hemera head an OK option? Seems like it elides a lot of this work for ~$100.
So.. What's the kinetic bed for again?
thermal expansion (minimizes warping over time) and automatic z tilt adjustment.
Klipper Vs. Marlin?
Why?
In part 4 the benefits of Klipper should become more apparent.
i wish someone comapred the v-slot version to the rail version.
i'm gonna make my own printer once i'm out of iran. i wanna use cheap carbon fiber for the X axis to save like 100g. not my idea some other youtuber's idea :O
i'm so hyped. I'm gonna do tilting hotends there
I wonder how this 3D printer is controlled? Where is that little LCD screen that every 3D printer has and through which all 3D printer settings are controlled?
He’s using a raspberry pi, and I’m assuming octopi into and kipper. The rpi connects to your WiFi, and you send the gcode to that via a web interface. Then the rpi tells the board what to do. Michael has other videos on octoprint and klipper, so maybe check those out?
@@Crazyates11 Thanks for the reply...
Hmmm ... if I understand correctly, you always need a laptop or other external computer unit (PC, laptop, tablet pc, mobile phone, ...) to control a 3D printer? If this is true it is quite awkward to operate one or two printers. I assume that RatRig was created to connect a lot of printers to a farm where printers are much easier to control via Octoprint?
But still ... is it possible and how difficult would it be to mount the LCD screen directly to the printer frame and connect it to the board....just like with the Voron 2.4?
@@pyrosnap4524 You can add any interface you want. Klipper has many. For web interfaces octoprint is definitely one of them but there are much nicer options such as Fluidd or Mainsail. You can absolutely add an LCD if you want, you can also add an HDMI touch screen (connected to the RPi) and run KlipperScreen on it for a much nicer touch interface.
As has been said you have a wide choice of screens. I am considering recycling an old Android tablet as a full featured touch interface.
Can the e6 keep up with the printer?
Will you be able to use non-planar slicing on this Rat Rig?
In theory, yes. There's no slicer that can do it yet (no firmware support either), and the carriage design would have to change.
Is there a reason why you are not using the skr pro 1.4 for this printer?
For the Rat Rig you need to control 6 steppermotors independently (3xZ, 2x XY, 1x Ext). SKR pro can do 5.
@@marNL1970 No the SKR Pro 1.2 can do 6. The SKR 1.3 and 1.4 (there's no SKR Pro 1.3 or 1.4) can do 5. You can add an EXP MOT for 3 additional steppers though. V-CoreOS supports SKR Pro 1.2 out of the box, so almost no setup is required.
@@miklschmidt Thanks and Indeed....V1.4 (and I meant this one in my earlier post) supports standard 5 stepsticks, V1.2 Pro does 6 standard. I wonder, and this is another question: it happens to be I have 2 Fysetc S6 (ST32F446) controllers here on my desk. These support 6 stepsticks. Can they be used for the RatRig V-Core?
@@marNL1970 Absolutely, you'll just have to do the setup yourself, you can always use the V-CoreOS config files as inspiration :) We're working on adding support for more boards.
Thanks Mikkel! As a Marlin junkie this is a nice opportunity to learn something about Klipper :-)