The Rat Rig v-core 3 build gets serious! Part 3: Wiring, Klipper setup and first print
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 มิ.ย. 2024
- I’ve wanted to build a top shelf 3D printer kit for a while, and now I present part 3 of the Rat Rig V-core 3 series. This appears to be an outstanding design: rigid, high quality, modular and containing amazing features such as a three point kinematic tool plate bed. My patrons helped me choose this and so far I’m very happy with it.
In the third episode, we cover questions and comments from part 2, wiring, what Klipper is and why I chose it, Klipper setup and checks. We also demonstrate the kinematic bed and produce our first print.
Next episode will feature detailed calibration, such as using an ADXL accelerometer to find resonant frequencies and eliminate vibrations during high speed printing.
This kit was purchased with my own money, apart from the shipping which was provided free of charge by Rat Rig. All opinions expressed are my own. Please pay attention to the safety warnings if you are attempting your own mains wiring. Consult a professional to ensure your safety.
Order the Rat Rig V-core 3: www.ratrig.com/3d-printing-cn...
0:00 Introduction
Rat Rig build playlist: • Rat Rig V-core 3 build
Rat Rig V-core 3 project page: v-core.ratrig.com/
Rat Rig V-core 3 GitHub: github.com/Rat-Rig/V-core-3
1:00 Electronics and Wiring
My previous video on crimp connectors and links to everything you need: • Guide to crimp connect...
Smash Gadgets (Australian store): Link removed, site seems to be having issues
Rat Rig V-core 3 electronics page: v-core.ratrig.com/electronics/
My electronics panel and other custom parts: www.thingiverse.com/thing:487...
Mains input switch: amzn.to/3aeRNSy
Mains wiring diagram: imgur.com/a/bludKNp
SuperSniffles' XY Cable Chain Mod: contrib.eva-3d.page/cable_cha...
3030 cable clips: www.thingiverse.com/thing:349...
8:08 Klipper: what and why?
Klipper: www.klipper3d.org/
Fluidd: github.com/cadriel/fluidd
Mainsail: github.com/meteyou/mainsail
Previous Klipper video 1: • Using a 32 bit Raspber...
Previous Klipper video 2: • Klipper guide part 2: ...
11:13 Kliper setup
Rat Rig V-core 3 firmware page: v-core.ratrig.com/firmware/
sourceforge.net/projects/win3...
14:22 Klipper tweaks to suit your spec machine
15:17 Klipper checks before printing
Klipper configuration checklist: www.klipper3d.org/Config_chec...
17:19 Kinematic bed Q&A
18:08 Kinematic self levelling bed demonstration
19:33 Slicer setup and first print
21:20 Conclusion/What’s to come
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One part that was left out of the edit by mistake is how to reverse a stepper direction. You don't want to edit the linked files such as 'steppers.cfg', so instead you copy any lines you need to change to your main configuration file and change them there, as this will take preference. For example, to reverse X I copied:
[stepper_x]
dir_pin: !PF1
and then changed it to: (exclamation mark removed)
[stepper_x]
dir_pin: PF1
Can you give us an update of the Xchange tool head please 🥺🥺🥺
Hrm, I've been wondering.
Is the near million stepper steps across all attached stepper motors or per motor?
I'm asking because the serial connection between the Pi and the control board is an emulated USB serial link which tend to not even get close to the 1.5-2Mbps a full hardware link can achieve and if the proposed step count is per motor, you wouldn't even be able to get a fraction of the maximum over a serial link.
Are we at a point where if we have Computer(Pi in this case)+Controller, we are starting to need to look into higher bandwidth reliable connectivity between the two?
Bought a Ratrig bc of your excellent videos. A recent Fluidd update (10AP23) turned my printer into a paperweight. I'm getting the error
"No moonraker connection. Please check moonraker status and / or refresh."
I am a simple user who is clueless on how to solve this. An internet search renders instructions that might as well have been written in hieroglyphics.
Anybody have a similar problem?
Phew! Glad to hear your V-CoreOS first impressions were "stupidly easy". You just made my year!
Thanks Mikkel for your awesome work on this!
@@liamventer my pleasure 🙏! I had some duet guys to prove wrong! 😂
A support for toolboard with integrated accelerometer will do your century. Planning to do a interchangeable electronics support to "easily" switch electronics in order to try RPi+SKR and Rpi+Duet (Klipper and RRF) mainly for the fun of learning it. And that's your fault, because of you fantastic job on VCore/Klipper.
About Michael Law: for me is a reference. A few months ago I done my first ever build of a Spanish kit not so good i3 clone, starting from absolute zero. I learn out to configure and compile Marlin for a SKR 1.4 also from complete zero thanks to the amazing Michael's teaching videos.
@@isaactavares1767 There is already the HUVUD toolboard, but it does not have an ADXL345 built in. Support for the 1LC will prolly come at some point, but they use the LIS3DH accelerometer which is not supported either, so still a bit of work there. However, since klipper supports multiple MCU's, you could just find a tiny control board with a free SPI bus and a capable MCU and run a USB wire + power to your carriage :)
Mikkel probably just learned that he can hold his breath for 22 minutes and 33 seconds 😂 Good, info-packed vid, Michael. Loved it
Yup, still shaking a little bit 😂 Of course all i can focus on is that he had to invert some stepper directions. Ugh, i need to quadruple check for the fourth time! 😂
I forgot to edit in the process for that but for me I had to invert X , Z, Z1, Z2 and the extruder. Ignore the extruder however because I had to cut and solder. Hopefully you can see in the pic but my stepper wiring seems to match the diagram.
@@TeachingTech I will go over it again, and figure out how to not break the setup for people who already have their printers working 😅 Thanks!
@@miklschmidt Seems that now you know what the NASA's engineers feel during the EDL at Mars. But they are the lucky ones. EDL only takes 7 minutes, the get hypoxia to a leaser extension than you :-))
"Stupidly easy to get going" I think I can put that to the test. Another excellent clear, concise and simple video thanks, I am almost beginning to feel confident about the part that was worring me.
I'm super excited, I decided to get a rat rig myself after starting this series! Thanks for the great content!
This is exactly what I needed, I'm 7 weeks in to my 500mm RR order and bought the same components as you. This made me feel much more confident in the build. Will be watching the next as well for fine tuning and the accelerometer work which I also have ready for my package... whenever it arrives...
I’m beggining my vídeos of RatRig V-Core too! It’s a wonderful machine!
My first video with V-Core 3: th-cam.com/video/zrEKA7i02L0/w-d-xo.html
Michael, your videos add so much to my enjoyment of 3D printing. Keep it up. Thanks.
I've never built a printer but I have been wanting to try a voron for a while. The simplicity in sourcing these parts from one place has made up my mind now I'm going to build one of these. thankyou for this little series
Excellent series Michael, you've gone a long way to helping us decide on our 2nd printer. Thank you for everything and your usual thoroughness, detail and careful attention. Now onto Klipper !
When this is all finished I'd love to see a comparison of a few prints with a well set up Ender 3 or similar 'beginner' printer. I'm enjoying this build and want one as much as the next person (especially because that bed is sooooo cool!), but I'm wondering how pronounced the differences are to the final print?
If both are well tunes (both machines clipperized with optimal profiles), there shouldnt be any print quality Difference.. What does change is printing speed with input shaper and other firmware bonuses.
Edit: spelling
Thank you! I've been looking for a someone to confirm how the bed heater is wired up on the V-core;
Rat Rig provide no documentation on this. Knowing this is how you've done it gives me a sensible wiring diagram I can follow. Many thanks!
Great series of videos. I have had my 400mm Rat Rig for a while and am now getting serious about building it. Your videos are a great overview - I realized that I did not have an electronics panel, so have ordered one. In the meantime, I'm inventorying all of the kit parts and printing the 3D parts. Thanks for all of the work you put into this.
Nice job at this! I really learn a lot from these videos!
Great printer
Interesting project 👍
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
That bed, is nuts. love it.
I just bought a used vcore 3.0 off facebook that has been upgraded to 3.1 and these videos have been very useful as I have no clue how to use it. Ender 3 has been most of my experience and this beast is a whole different beast. Thank for video❤
Very Very ... Very professional Work! And enjoyable to watch done right.
Thank you very much! Although I still plan to tidy up my wiring some more.
That's nice that they finally have firmware support. Back when I built mine at work a year ago, I got stuck and ratrig told me they can not help at all for marlin. Was a crushing day to say the least.
As I'm taking notes and rewatching the video to setup my RatRig I was embarrassed to see I wasnt Subscribed. Had I ever even given a Thumbs Up over the past year? This video and many others are so packed with good stuff. Thank you man!
Really nice build.
I also have recently started to use Klipper on my Hypercubish 3d printer.
Looking forward too see your next videos in this series, especially InputShaper 😀
Never heard of Klipper before, thanks! Tablet control is awesome. I'd even consider buying a cheap tablet for this purpose! $100 for a really good touchscreen display is completely reasonable for this application IMO. Thanks for the video! Really excited to get my own no-compromises build going in a couple months. Will be coming back to this series for reference!
You can get use almost any screen with Klipper, there is a plug in for it. TFT screens are the most common, run under $60.00, connect to the Pi via a ribbon, and you never have to worry about your Android app going out of date.
this is becoming my fav trendy printer.. Considering building one.
Wow, what a machine, great
That's a very nice looking machine and using Klipper was an interesting choice. My upgraded Ender 3 is all the printer I think I'll ever *need*....but I'd certainly *like* one of these! I might play around with a Klipper setup on my Ender one day, just for the crack really. As always, thanks for an informative and interesting video Michael and congratulations to Mikkel & the team for creating an excellent product.
awesome presentation. Thank your sharing the knowledge.
Very useful - thanks for all your efforts.............
I have ordered a 500x500x500 Ratrig and eagerly awaiting each episode from you in preparation for it arriving. As a result of this, I have already changed my other printer over to a full Klipper install (without octoprint) to familiarise myself with the software, and I have to say although it required quite a bit of fiddling to get it going, now that it is working i'm more than impressed and will not be switching back to Marlin. I referred to your fantastic printer calibration page as its always my go to reference when troubleshooting and tuning. It would be great to update the pages to support both Marlin and Klipper configuration changes if possible.
Quality !
Great Info, Thank you.
Hi Michael! Great series of videos, that got me really interested in the Rat rig. However I like to print functional and higher temp. materials like ABS, ASA,NYLON,PMMA etc. and i would like to ask you to tell us more about the heated chamber setup in the firmware and if you have any info on potential additional heating hardware requirements. Thank you for the great content!!!
Hi Michael @Teaching Te and Mikkel @Mikkel Schmidt, I have the same question so it would be great if you could go into these questions! Cheers from Austria, Lukas
Same here! That's a big motivation for me to consider building this.
Thanks for the fantastic setup video. That will make life so much easier when mine arrives. I am glad I didnt wait for this video to get my order in. The whole thing is so well setup and thought through. Now just have to wait until it gets here. RR is going to need more staff :). OEM parts supply for RR hopefully wont delay their orders too much. I work for a company that manufactures a product and parts supply for us is getting more and more difficult and delayed. Europe maybe easier though than here is OZ
What a fantastic printer, I could easily do all the bolting together and maybe most of the electronics BUT I wouldn't have a hope in hell of doing any of the configuration! There needs to be a company that comes to your house and does all the set-up for you 🤔.
Klipper for the win!
And fluidd 👍🏻
You’re going to want to G28 Z after your Z_TILT_ADJUST to make sure your z offset is correct after all of the tilt adjustments.
It's already in the START_PRINT macro at the bottom of printer.cfg (i recommend people use that from their slicers, it makes switching slicers at will much easier).
I will try it and compare.
I built a Rat Rig using a very similar switch to the one you used in this video (Looks identical but the manufacturer name is different). I started having some issues with the printer turning off unexpectedly and discovered that one of the wires had blackened and the plastic around it had melted. Yours might be better made than mine, but it might be worth checking the connections on that thing to make sure they're holding up well to the current that's going through them.
now i want one
The bed is a nice feature that potentially can help with a subject that you talked on a previous video: nonlinear 3D printing!
Should be very interesting!
That question has come up in the series so I will talk about it briefly in the next video.
Dope machine, even though the cost of like $2k I might go for it.
I'm tired of my ender 3 and its warped bed, never ending levelling and crappy screen(upgraded to BTT LCD still crap).
I hope there is enclosed version of ratrig, I also want to print high temp materials.
Question about the 5A fuse on the Plug/Switch module. On my V-Core 3 the fuse pops as soon as the printer turns on the bed heating pad. I've wired everything without the switch and it works fine. Should I just try to replace the fuse with a 10A fuse? Or is that going to over heat and melt my switch?
I would recommend removing the battery from the tablet if you intend to use it for a long time, because a dead battery constantly being charged is somewhat of a fire hazard
Hi Michael, great video. Thinking about installing Klipper too. I like your display choice. Any chance you go more in depth about using a tablet please? I understand you can install/run Klipper from an Android device as well as having Mainsail or Fluidd monitoring display on the same Android device. That'd be a great tutorial ! Cheers !
Damn. And so ends the trend of the "good luck karate chop" in this series
WOOOOW
You don't have to use a tablet as Klipper screen. You can connect any HDMI screen to your Raspberry and use KlipperScreen as the interface. Also, if you have multiple raspberry PIs, one can be connected to the printer, the other to the HDMI screen and they can communicate over Wifi. You can even make the screen completely portable with some 18650 lithium battery shield.
I know I don't have to but this solution is effective and free for me because I already have it here doing nothing.
@@TeachingTech I use an old android phone as a touch screen and webcam server on one of my printers. I have it configured to auto turn on/boot on printer power, launch webcam server, and Duet Web Control for the interface, then power down when power is turned off. It works very well, no rooting is required, & uses standard apps from the apps store. Its a great way to re-use old phones/tablets. (My V Core 3 kit is 3 weeks away from shipping - so this series has been very useful! Thanks)
On the whole are you happy with the quality of the print and the proffesional outcome of your build and the way the unit is designed.
the big advantage klipper has is automating or streamlining all of the manual tuning and configuration that goes into a 3d printer, need to work out the best PID settings for your heater and bed, need to work out your bl touch offset & z heigh offset, all can be semi-automated in klipper with a single command. want to stay on the latest version of marlin? all the config occurs outside of the marlin binary in klipper no need to merge changes to update.
my only gripe with klipper is their obsession with changing a bit too much from the norm, klipper bl touch offset is how much higher is the nozzle (eg z= -0.54) while marlin uses (z= 0.54), klippers recent removal of rotation distance for gear ratios and teeth, which is a good thing itself and better than the old way which was just done due to limited processing power on 8bit mcus but removing of that config setting just breaks existing configs for those who didn't care about that
With regards to z-offset it's the other way around. I think we're all kind of biased here to whatever we're used to. I find klippers way much more sensible, your z_offset is the z_position your probe triggers at. So if it triggers 1mm before the nozzle, z_offset: 1. Seems logical to be, but YMMV :)
I believe mm_per_step is still just deprecated, isn't it? But yes, if you update, be sure to read the configuration changes, because klipper moves fast. That's a big reason i like it though. I get features today that Duet people only dream of tomorrow, and i gotta say it's been very reliable for me for the past 1,5-2 years even running on master :)
OK, the lack of an honorable mention for touch screens means I need to acquire a standard LCD for the Minion like is on my Ender 3.
It would seem a BTT would be overkill for a 180x180 Cartesian. I can run 150mm/s on an MKS w/ my Ender so maybe I'll stick with that as I know how Klipper behaves on it.
Last I checked, fluidd doesn't support plugins so I'll be sticking w/ Octoprint for now.
Your videos are always well produced and thought out. Great job.
Plenty of people have suggested a HDMI touch screen so far, so there are other options I'm sure. It is open source so if you're up for it you could fork it and customise to your heart's content.
@@TeachingTech coding is kryptonite to me. I was referring to a display for the BTT not the Pi. Sorry for not being clear.
I saw your videos and also purchaesed a Ratrig v core 3. Really love your contant and videos! One Question. Why you didnt use the new BTT Octopus instead of the SKR 1.2 Pro? The Octopus in an insane board with a lot of features. And the best thing is, you can directly power your rasp pi from the board without additional power supply.
Do you plan revisiting non planar 3D printing leveraging the kinematic bed capabilities this printer have?
Some people ask why only 3 point on the bed and not 4. Ive been asking the opposite, why do they always have 4 when 3 is better.
very nice video, as always. is the solid state relay included in the packaging from ratrig? ty
You can add it in the configurator when you order (together with the bed) :)
@@miklschmidt ty, glad I ordered the heating bed as well
Hi Michael,
Imam very much interested in installing a filament run-out sensor. The board you are using supports that. Could you advise or do a special on how to do this and what hardware to use?
Kind regards, Tobias
Is it possible to add a Tool Changer to this printer? Something like the E3d ToolChanger. Great set of videos.
Watching this again after building my own made me really think Ratrig needs to start including a mains power switch and a wiring diagram for the power. Someone like me who is fairly tech savvy but has never done something like this step before and might not know what the proper/best pieces to use are could easily make a mistake and either hurt themselves or damage the printer early on.
Great videos! Now i want a new printer! There is a disturbing lack of heatshrink on the end of your wire tubes xD
Thank you Michael, very nice. Now we need a budget version. Would you consider doing a video on 3 motor Z axis using Marlin's G34 Auto Z Leveling?. Some of us are on a budget and a BTT Octopus or Fysetc Spider with 8 drivers are less expensive to buy than a BIGTREETECH SKR PRO V1.2. Adding a third Z axis to my existing CoreXY printer is way less expensive than buying a complete Voron or Rat Rig. Using Marlin means only adding a control board, 2 more drivers, a stepper motor, a lead screw and nut and some printed parts and wiring. I have all the rest.
You already have all the hardware and electronics necessary, just show us how to do it in Marlin? Thank you very much for your zeal and fantastic teaching.
Can you share why you chose to stick with the classic end stops, instead of the new Sensorless homing mode ?
Hey, you should review the wanhao d12 230, it might be the new ender 3 considering the features it packs for it small price
Michael.. Love the Videos; could you post the full list of parts you purchased or had lying around in the Comments please..? those not sourced from RR..
I will own one of these printers. It's my 2022 background project.
Hello !
Great video ! I ordered it with a thermal fuse but was not able how to fix it under the bed and couldn't find as well how to cable it.
any link ?
Thanks again !
I want one already ! i will defenitly stop updrading my ender 3
Nice video! Thanks!
I was wondering if the SKR mini e3 v3 would work fine with the Ratrig?
Do you think it's possible to do planar printing on the kinematic bed?
Can you do a video on belt tensioning for the ratrig please?
HI! I would like to know why did you choose not to use sensorless homing? Thanks in advance!
I'd like to see you build the Rat Rig IDEX machine!
Dual Hemera
Dual mosquito liquids
Hi Michael. Awesome build series on what appears to be an awesome printer. Like you I also have the Seckit SKGO (running Klipper) which I'm really happy with but I'm really wanting to build the Rat Rig V-Core 3. I don't need it but I want it! I'm trying to justify it to myself (and my wife!). For me, building and tinkering with 3D printers is as much as a hobby as actually using them. So, the question is, should I sell my SKGO to help fund the cost of the Rat Rig? Or should I keep it at least until the Rat Rig is up & running? What do you reckon?
(Money permitting) the correct number of 3D printers to own is the current number plus one.
If you can afford to keep both, it's always handy as one can keep printing if the other is down. Plus you can specialise them for different types of filament (such as large vs small nozzles).
There is also an option to add plugins with Klipper like in Octoprint? Like PSU Control, Emergency Stop, Filament Management and Timelapse?
PSU control / Smart switch /etc is already supported in Moonraker (the klipper API), Emergency stop is already present in Fluidd (The webinterface) and KlipperScreen (Touch screen interface), With filament management i'm guessing you mean keeping track of individual rolls? in which case that's not a thing, yet. There's a timelapse plugin for Moonraker, but it's not as advanced as Octolapse. You can use Octoprint instead of you prefer, it's just significantly less responsive and uses more system resources, but you can use all the plugins. I'd recommend giving the Fluidd / Moonraker / Klipper combo a go first though.
Hi Michael. Do you know if rat rig works on a firmware for other boards? Intrested in fysetc spider.
I was going to build a hevort but after realising you have a video about ratrig this is my machine now. Going to order.
What was your postsge cost to Australia?
Can you show the settings of the internal temperature sensor of the skr pro board? Because it shows me a negative temperature :(
You left your Slicer on Cartesian so I wonder if Klipper or the Raspberry Pi calculates the kinematics while translating the gcode?
You've made this whole thing much less terrifying. One question I have is, using the web interface, would you always need a solid network connection (or network uptime) to control the printer? I had used octoprint before and had some odd network things happen that caused octoprint to restart and kill my prints mid job. I suppose if it is compatible with different LCDs there would be an SD slot built into that to control without the web interface? Thanks for the awesome build series!
Hi, Im using the BTT octopus main board, is the wiring for the heated bed the same?
Does the SKR, in this current configuration, support "Pressure Advance"? I'm assuming you're using the TMC 2208/2209 drivers? I was under the impression that TMC2208/2209 couldn't do Linear Advance or Pressure Advance. I'm confused
Hi Micheal. I have a question that I hope you can help me with, It doesn't have anything to do with this particular video but I wanted to get a quick reply so I chose the most recent upload. The question: I recently got a CR10s pro as a gift, but its second hand and the tools that were initially included are missing, I just want to know what the dimensions of the black X-axis spacer is so I can CAD one up and print it with one of my other printers. The big issue is the thickness, I could only find the length dimensions online. I hope you can help me, thank you in advance, and keep up the awesome videos.
How do you enclose that build-volume? Can the steppers remain outside the heated chamber? And it's a pity that Rat Rig doesn't provide the electronics back-panel and enclosure panels as part of the kit - not everyone has tooling to cut that himself ...
The printer is designed so it can be very easily enclosed by adding panels around it. A top lid and front door will be available soon for full enclosure. The steppers remain outside the heated chamber if you choose to use an electronics panel. We provide DXF files for all panels, so they can be easily sourced in a local laser shop, and we're also working on starting to supply the panels themselves very soon. You can read more at v-core.ratrig.com.
Marlin is the T-800, Klipper is the Rev-9 - only downside is it's not exactly user friendly, there are obvious complexities to using it but it shouldn't be too much for any experienced 3d printer veteran.
Please make a video on andriod kliperscreen.
Can you run a pair of these printers at the same time using the fluidd interface? I presume they would have different IP addresses on your home network, so use two tabs of fluidd in the browser?
Running an AC bed like this without a temperature fuse is not advised and I suggest you add one ASAP. Also when buying these heater mats they sometimes come with a temp fuse included, it is much better to go without and to attach one yourself because if it blows you can replace it
There's an option with an embedded 157 degree fuse in the heated bed when you buy the v-core :)
It has one included already. I have a spare too from a previous install so all good.
@@TeachingTech awesome! Couldn't see it in the video so I'm guessing it's inside the mat? A lot of people choose to have the fuse externally instead to just be able to remove it with a screw, mine goes through a WAGO for example. Hope that you enjoy your safe AC bed mate!
Thanks very much. I still plan to insulate it with cork so it has zero chance of peeling off (not that I'm expecting that).
I would not feel comfortable with a moving bed that is powered with mains voltage. There is a risk of cable breakage due to the constant movements and fire. I would therefore prefer the Voron 2.4 with a fixed bed.
Now that you've had experience with the Rat Rig, do you have any feelings regarding the pros versus the cons of Rat Rig versus Voron? Specifically concerning moving the head vertically versus moving the base. Prehaps the subject of a future video?
hello Teaching tech nice video !!! I have the vcore3 500mm but I have a big problem the printer makes a lot of noise when moving diagonally above 200mm/s if you have any idea of the problem. thanks
Just be careful using a tablet with a busted battery ... I've had the battery pouch bloat on an Ipad because it was always plugged in. Thanks for the great content!!!
I will monitor it, thanks :)
Dude, same here. My nephew's tablet died around 5 minutes after unplugging it, so he always had it plugged in. Last week he complained about oil spots on his screen. A day later, the screen actually separated from the body and popped off because the battery pouch was bloating.
Things could have been much worse.
You are not far off a fully automated system there ! Just need to sort out the auto filament loading . Wouldn't it be nice to be able to download a file , slice and send it to your printer from your phone and have it waiting for you when you get home .
So with klipper being the firmware on the pi do you still run Raspbian?
Being able to use the GPIO ports on the pi at the same time would be nice - maybe for smoke / fire detection .
A modified version of raspbian lite, yes. You can use the Pi as additional MCU with klipper as well if you want.
Im considering to make this exact build. Would you be willing to make the same backing for all the electronics for purchase?
Is the tablet used just as a Display? My question is if i need something more than a touchscreen to controll the 3d printer on the printer itself.
I guess that at 11:13, where the Klipper is shown on the Ratrig page, that as been superseded by RatOS?
id love to have a v core 3 but for that price no way, much rather over time build it. so with that in mind. is it possible to take lets say an ender 3 or sovol sv01 and use its parts to help reduce the cost of getting the vcore? im aware im gonna need to buy some motors, gonna need to get a new main board and their bed but is this doable?
I did not see where or how you set the nozzle tip to the BL Touch Tip X and Y offset. Z I get that is Z offset but I need X and Y for Klipper using Mainsail and Orca???
How loud is the printer at max/high speed?
Tried going the Smashed Gadgets and web site is gone! Maybe it's been removed?
What is the status of your DXF file? I tried downloading the ones on github, but they all come up with an error when trying to load them. What I need to find out is the size of panel that will be needed for the 500mm version.
Fixed the problem with downloading the DXF files. Will need a panel 710mm x 765mm. Do you think using hardboard or plywood would work?
What is the tickness and material of your electronic panel?
I want to order a 3D printer kit.... SK-GO essential, RatRig or Railcore? This is the question
Let me know your final choice. I think you couldn't go wrong with any of them, I'm more concerned with total cost and shipping.
Is it bad that I just got my first 3D printer, but now want to build one of these?
No but learn how to drive the one you have first !
@@ianbertenshaw4350 Yes because a lot of n00bs tend to underestimate the challenges to overcome when starting out.
you can use klipper and all its features with your printer as well, there are presets for a lot of printers and it’s not that hard to make your own
What model of Rasberry are you using? 2Gb; 4Gb; 8Gb. It is possible to print parts for 4040 aluminum? Thank you to FRANCE
if you enclose the printer, i'm not sure you can keep all those mounted electronics inside, because of the heat .