3D Printed Action Figures!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ม.ค. 2025
- This is officially a dream project come true. Attempting to 3D Print articulating action figures + Resin Stacking!
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Jessy the technique to tighten up ball joints is called Sueding. Its common among ball jointed doll makers. You use moleskin inside the cup part of the ball joint to provide friction, you can buy it with a self adhesive backing. Alternatively you can even use hot glue and spread it around the cup, let it set then insert the ball part and achieve the same result!
This would look stellar if you printed the helmets out of the clear red!
@@iRiselyTech You might get away with using a little bit of poster tac in the joint?
@@iRiselyTech Heck yeah! I remember watching a video a few years back on how to tighten up an old action figure joint but couldnt remember what material they used. I bet it was the moleskin! Thanks for the tip! Going to try both out
@@FSDraconis gah damnit... now I gotta go and do that
Anybody else thinking how awesome fully articulated D&D minis would be?
🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯
That was my first thought!
I see both the amazing and the horrors immediately. This could be awesome and allow better things as far as actionable poses in combat that fit the 3d terrain like climbing actions. I also see that one player or a group of players trying to be perfectly posed at all times and the hours spent watching that too.
If you could print out a full supply of interchangeable parts for various poses...
*imagines mass army setup for stop action movie...
I just wanna use the figs i already have but im also sadly to add for dnd
7:10 - An easy way to thicken a joint for a tighter pose on the 200% model is simple enough - thin layers of superglue. Just let it harden on the ball part of the joint before attaching the figure together if you don't want them in a pose permanently. If still loose, apply another thin layer of glue. Works on Gundam kits so it should work here :3
Floor polish is another one I've seen used on Gundam, Transfromers, etc.
I just printed these up the other day and was having this same issue. I’ll have to try the super glue method.
Clear nail polish also works well - at least for FDM printing - which, pro tip, is also good for creating a bit of a seal over the surface before painting, as paint can seep in between layers and spread out below the surface.
I've heard applying a top coat onto the joint can also work but I haven't tried it myself
@@xianfilm Did you by anychance tried it ? im interested in hearing results.
Honestly this combined with the silicone molding techniques is where I think the idea really shines.
Very cool to see how far 3d printing tech has come. I'm definitely going to have to try and make some of these whenever I get a resin printer!
Still blows my mind how quick the tech is advancing and the prices keep coming down
A old trick used in the action figure scene to tighten up joints is to use Pledge acrylic floor gloss. It used to be sold under the "Future" line. People in the hobby use it for applying a primer, or clear coats to paint or mixing them to get a semi-glossy color. And as stated, it can be brushed into joints and left to cure, It will give the joint some added friction so the joint is tighter.
That is a cool project! Thank you for the video Uncle Jessy!
Thanks for checking it out! Loving that peacemaker helmet!
Tip: Run the prints under the hot tap right before pulling off the supports. Makes it a lot easier.
A good advice is to print the figures without articulations, and then add kaiyodo revoltech or figma joints (ball joints) that comes in different colors. This would make the process easier for printing and will give the figures a high quality articulation.
May be you can print the articulation (ball joints) yourself?
remember when you scale something up the joint relief distance scales up as well! if, for example, the relief distance was 1 mm then scaled up it is 2 mm! which puts it out of tight tolerance. Same thing will happen if scaled down you won't be able to assemble.
The first thing I ever resin printed was a articulated head I models for a custom Halo Mege Construx figure. It's kinda the reason I got into resin printing so I love seeing that a community is starting to form around articulated figures :D
This is exactly the sort of thing I want more of from resin 3D printing! Detailed, highly articulated models! I'd design my own, but I'm simply not a skilled enough modeler... 😑
I would love to see some more articulating gunpla (gundam) models
If this happens with gunpla that be crazy 👀
I’m all in on resin printing gunpla! I’m learning hard surface modeling for that same reason
I’m currently hunting for files
@@Eldurz bandai may respond by adding more ms joint and diecast metal to compete. Using this for custom armor for mg gunpla frames would be good (could make stuff like resin kits be put out of business)
Saw the thumbnail and thought "why is Uncle Jessy playing with casting resin??" it is basically that same purple! Great prints, love those cards, really nice system. Those colored backdrops look SICK!
That is 110% on the to do list for this year!
@@UncleJessy We use Siraya Tech Cast. Work's great! Pain to print as it is REALLY fragile. No vroooom for it, 50mm/min max pull speed I believe!
This makes me very happy! I need to get an Elegoo Mars printer.
This technology has a long way to go before action figure manufacturers even in a small scale need to start worrying. However Jesse DeStasio of Glyos and Toypizza has gone on record saying he’s going to be doing 3d printed figures this year to sell.
I really think it depends on the type and quality of figure. Imagine if places like hot toys sold STL files of the grunts, like the storm trooper, and to offset that, put more work into better and more awesome hero figures that you really only would have 1 of anyways.
@@TheAlexdodd its also about the design . i am a designer , so i bought a printer to bring it to reality. but , nowadays everybody buys printer to print models that somebody else made. it has no creativity in it
@@3dman563 I've been painting miniatures other people sculpted for 30 years, so it's quite the surprise to be browsing TH-cam today and discover that literal decades of creative output had "no creativity in it". 🙄
You can tighten the joints with floor polish. I've used Pledge Floor Gloss on action figure joints that are super loose. Works great, super easy and cheap! Sometimes you might need a couple layers (with drying time in between), but it does the trick. I first heard of the technique on TH-cam from other action figure enthusiasts.
I build gunpla model kits and when we have loose joints, we go over the joints with some cement and let it dry so the joint is a bit thicker. You might be able to do the same with resin.
varnish, sticky tack or a little bit of resin there are a lot of ways to fix loose joints, pretty much anyway you can thicken the ball joint or peg will work nicely
Post-cure you can make assembly easier by warming the parts with the female halves of the joints in front of a heater. Just makes the resin slightly softer!
The stacked models remind me of Kit Cards which were all the rage on r/3dprinting around Christmas 2021. And as a warhammer nerd, i do love me some on-sprue models. Though if a warhammer kit was crunching like at 6:20 I would be very concerned.
I'm kind of tempted to pass these around as little gifts at like halloween or in birthday cards and stuff
This is an AMAZING technique. Not for action figures, instead the designer could print posable minis on sprues. That would give us the option to create individual poses for every mini instead of being stuck with the couple poses that the current one piece mini model files come in. This is really an eye opener!
Peg systems, like Glyos are ideal for joints; some use Lego pins. If you can adapt the joints to a peg, you get more flexibility in printing, replaceability and repairability, as well as interchangeability. Also, you can both wax and / or oil the joints more readily with pegs.
My favorite part of your video is when you show the resin bottle with resin all over it, makes me feel better about my resin covered bottles! ;-)
haha aint no shame in the messy resin game ;) thanks for checking it out man! FYI we need to chat later this year! I need to make some lures
A technique i use to get stiffer joints on models if theyre to loose is simply dabbing a small amount of super glue into it and moving it around so that it doesnt glue em in place. That or i use plastic cement to do the same thing basically.
I really like this action figure idea with this pre support frames. I design most of the time on my channel anime figures and have sometimes "problems" to arrange my parts. At the moment I stick the parts just together, I think I should also do some research how I can do action figures like the figma's. Thank you for the video, this gave me more ideas how to design/ arrange my own figures XD
Those figures looks so FREAKING GOOD
Update coming soon!
@@UncleJessy now I need to get myself an elegoo mars, just to make dope action figures like these! Plus I need an upgrade from my Orange 10
I think the problem with 200% scaling is the tolerances between pieces are now doubled. It would take some modifications to keep them as tight as the 100% prints.
When my old GIjoe's joints got loose from use, and this was really a LOT easier on the legs, I would use Elmer's glue in the knees and bits of zip lock bags in the hips and shoulders to tighten them up. This did require dismantling the figure, which started a bout of kitbashing with me and my friends. This was back in the 1980s when I was a kid. Today I might still use Elmer's glue and ziplock bag bits, but if the joint ends are that robust you might try BLUE Treadlock and only a small dot of it.
I specified Elmer's glue, although any similar school or craft glue will work as well, because its drying results is a conveniently shaped plastic "wedge" that tightens the joint. If anything goes wrong, like the glue is too filling or strong, it can be removed, but it will require dismantling the joint. This is also why you do NOT use something like Gorilla Glue. It is simply TOO strong. Although if the joints happen to be metal on plastic or metal on metal, you can consider it. I have not tried sealants, like your typical window sealants from a hardware store, but maybe...?
I emphasis "Blue" threadlock because that is the less powerful formulation The RED is designed for use on Car engines and similar heavier metal screws or bolts into metal parts and structures and requires FIRE to melt and release the RED Threadlock. Do not use RED.
A smear of thin super glue on one half of a joint, and then allow to fully cure before assembly of the joint, will enlarge the ball, or shrink the socket, and will make a joint tighter. PTFE tape is also quite good, and is easy to remove if you use too much...
I can’t wait to eventually get to resin printing. Filament is a lot of fun so far but man that’s cool!
This is a much cooler example of resin stacking. I could see doing this for minis on a regular basis.
That crackling sound is so satisfying. Kinda like bubble wrap.
if your joints are loose, hit em with some clear nail polish or some floor polish. let em dry, reassemble and voila: tighter joints. i do it all the time on my transformers. you can also buy 'kiki - fix loose joints' on amazon or something, but that's basically floor polish as well.
This is so cool, the dream of any action figure collector
OMG the crunch. love it
Very cool, Uncle Jessy! This is very exciting, Nice video, man!
Hey Jessy! These are pretty bad ass. As for the joints. You can tighten them up with a bit of crazy glue. Lol I know this sounds crazy but it works like a charm. Add a lil glue to the joint and keep moving the joint until the glue is dry. This makes the joint tighter. Repeat until you get the desired motion in the joint
This is such a clever idea, I love it!
And checkout those ResinLapse clips 😬
for the loose joints on the 200% prints, you can try brushing on a thin layer of floor polish to tighten them up! the transformers community has been doing that for a long time with great results
You could possibly brush on uncured resin and then put them under the light
Could these be used by a 5 year old? I've printed some action figures using 30:70 Tenacious:Siraya ABS and found that even with the Tenacious they were still much too brittle for kid use, although just fine for putting on a shelf. One of my dreams has always been articulating action figures that my kids could actually use. And yeah I've considered a filament printer, but I always wanted the detail of resin. Great video Jessy! !!
Not in my experience. The tenacious has nothing on a 5 yr old playing. Did some thick minotaurs and witches that he managed to break within a few minutes.
Honestly, I'm thoroughly enthralled with resin stacking, and I can't wait to see more and try it myself. 😁
Whew. Was afraid I was overdoing it with more resin stacking content. I’m also sliiiigjtly obsessed. One more project in mind that I have for it that I want to try and tackle soon
@@UncleJessy I don't think you're overdoing it at all. I can't think of a reason why anyone *shouldn't* use vertical space. 🤷♂️
@@kalosprismatic 🤘🤘
@@kalosprismatic One reason I can think is if there's a defect...the rest will suffer. Still a neat concept though.
i print a lot of tabletop minis, and one designer i follow does these card style supports as well, so they essentially come on sprues like store bought warhammer minis
if you don't find a way to do fix the joint when they are printing, try this: after you've printed, cleaned and built the figure and if the joints are still loose, sip a bit of superglue on the joint and move it so it doesn't get stuck together. that should fix the joints to not be so loose and maybe weak if you put a lot of weight on them.
I checked out the mechs and my only thought was what it would take to upscale the mechs to have the larger figures fit the pilot seats.
definitely needs the siraya tech i printed a larger one without and the joints just snapped like twigs
The plastic modeling community can definitely help you out with those loose joints. My first suggestion is a drop of model glue or cement on the joint and then keep it moving until it dries.
I had tons of issues trying to make some resin figure parts and add-ons. I just couldn't seem to get parts to fit and line up correctly. Whether that was just normal variances/shrinkage, or that also being increased with adding Tenacious, but I couldn't get stuff working with my Saturn. Had better luck with my Neptune, which I got after giving up on doing it in resin - lol.
I don't know if it would work for the resin mix you did, but for assembly you could probably use heat to make it easier to slide the joint in. It works for the 3D printed Godzilla accessories we do for my studio using resione's M58.
Yeah Resione ABS like resin is one of the best! Also another tips I learn from Jazwares Fortnite figures, put some Vaseline on the ball joints to have less brutal grinding friction with the socket. It's like greasing parts of the car when rigid grinding rigid parts.
@@Yuzrass yooo what????? I'ma have to try that!!!!! 👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
Try it dude!
you could brush the ball joint with a small amiunt of resin and cure it with a UV flashlight to make them a little less lose (if the ball joint is the issue that is)
Ild love to see this in a robotech mecha theme. Some of the most visually impressive mech suits ever
If you like the look of raw resin and dont plan to paint them you can get rid of (or hide) the white scratches on resin prints with a quick wipe with a cloth dabbed in mineral oil or clear chapstick. then wipe clean. though if it gets in the joints it might not hold poses as well.
WOW that is a cool tiny figure!
THIS IS SICK!!!!! I really want to try this for myself, but...BIGGER!!!
THANK YOU I have been looking for something like this for *ever*
Are the ones on the sprue hard to remove or rather when you clip it there's a chance for it to fly off etc being more brittle than your typical plastic sprues.. You can use nail polish to coat the joints .. that's what people generally use for their toys when joints get loose.
If the joint is loose, you could try dipping the ball of the joint in resin and curing. That should close the gap.
Try to brush on and UV flashlight cure the flexible resin onto the socket of the 200% print before popping in the ball joint for added tightness
Fantastic concept, also gotta love tat hobby asmr
As someone who really enjoys 3-D printing games workshops intellectual property is operating because he and he enjoys the game but hates the company I really get a kick out of how many times Uncle Jesse said the word space marine in this video even though they're not technically THAT kind of space marine.
More “space marines” coming up 🤣😂
@@UncleJessy 🤩🤩🤩
Glad to see that you have found the plastic sprue cutters more useful than first thought.
I just ordered some. Can’t wait to try these prints out
This is a great idea for custom Gundam parts! Time to break out the calipers and fire up Blender.
Bloody awesome mate can't wait to print these.
I make toys and joints are super hard to do with resin as the resin is always degrading with friction…. Personally I use magnets but one trick that tends to work is a light coat of superglue around the pop in joint…. Adds that acrylic flex and tightens the socket.
If you can't find an easy way to thicken the joints you can simply add superglue and let it dry to thicken the joint, although I don't know how it may work with resin
Okay that is some impressive packaging
You can always add layers to the joints your self like when you coated the fdm mask with resin. Add a layer of resin to the ball joint or socket and cure it then try how it feels. If not good try another layer.
Really cool prints Uncle Jessy. Just got my Mars 2 Pro and can't wait to try this out.
Heck yeah! Congrats that is a stellar machine!
So satisfying ☺️
im sort of baffled because every figure ive printed that had any kind of articulation, didn't fit well, or the joints would grind, or the joints wouldn't work at all because the resin is too rigid (or not pliable at all). I used sirayatech build with tenacious mixed in. I just don't understand how they "snap" together and move. why yours didn't break when putting the ball int he joint is baffling to me. really wish I had different experiences haha.
That's what's happened to me as well, so I wound up combining the files before printing since the joints broke otherwise.
it's using higher end resins that's the trick. Cheap standard resins will just snap.
I suggest to turn the sets 90° and readjust the supports for lowering print time again ;)
Watching this vid ... and my 5 yr old was watching over my shoulder. Yup ... gotta print them all now =)
Just purchased a bunch of them! Awesome!
Would these files work for a non resin 3d printer
Taking the custom brand color resin idea with the figure stacking plates. Thanks!
You can use superglue to tighten the joints
th....they go IN the suits!?!?! amazing!!!
I know right!?!? 🤯🤯🤯🤯
I recommend u to try the Tobey Mcguire 3d printed figure or add something to the haslab sentinel that's a lot of fun
Whats better at printing? Resin printer or 3D printer
it depends, a resin printer will be far better at minitures and things like this in the video but a filament printer is better for big parts such as, pen holders, display stands, big model kits, RC stuff and loads of other things, I personally have both and I have to say i use my filament printer (ender 3 v2) way more than my resin printer (creality halot one)
Depends on what you need to print. I do love the fine detail you get with resin, but its messier, more expensive and toxic to handle without protection. PLA(plastic) is a lot safer to use but typically prints slower and produces less detail
@@UncleJessy thanks 🙏 I just wanted to know which one I should get for my first one
Resin printing model kits is elite
It’s about time
This could be an ASMR video. Peeling off the supports is SO SATISFYING! Ha ha!
Awesome stuff man! Thank you Jessy!
This is awesome! Nice prints, man!
Thanks for checking it out!
I like the idea of what this is and how they look but i have yet to have a single print that didn't break when trying to assemble it. I will definitely have to try putting them together BEFORE curing, just to see if it goes better. I love the details on these, though.
Hi Tim,
depending on the resin you use, it might be better to assemble them after post UV curing, since that way you'll experience less dusting/powdering when the surfaces rub together. The best trick is to submerge the parts in a cup of hot water for 20-30 seconds. This will soften the parts and make them nicely flexible. The assembly is then fairly easy. Make sure to let the parts dry and cool down after assembly.
The stacked version looks like some kind of scifi computer chip that an alien would be pulling out of their computer.
Idk if anybody else does this, but as soon as my resin prints are done I start the cleaning by spraying alcohol, then shake the excess, and then I either use a condensated air can or blow it myself until is perfectly dry. All this before letting any light touch the piece. Doing this I remove any moisture that might solidify inside crevices or small areas, thus retaining the sharpness of the details and all remains crisp. That's why many resin prints look puffy or rounded, with no sharp edges, cause moisture solidifies and ruins the detail.
Just a friendly tip for the 3d printing fellowship.
Great video! Any concern about trapping uncured resin inside the figure if you assemble it before post-processing?
Hey Uncle Jessy just wanted to thank you , ive had failure after failure using dozens of flashdrives , all crap......until I used the ones you suggested the SanDisk cruzer. I know I'm not Patreon I apologize for that , but when I need anything I always check with your Amazon listings , someday I hope to support you , but things are not great right now. Anyway thanks for all you do and even us little guys benefit from your awesome videos........thanks again
Those are dope!!!
I saw a guy that made Zip Tie action figures. Resin he says it was too brittle, but anyway he has TPU covers for the joints of the figures. Supposed to help keep them tight.
I use Elegoo's ABS Like resin. It isn't brittle and even has some flex. I think it would be perfect for these figures. I might have to get one or two to try out.
clear nail polish helps for joints
Oh wow this is really damn cool 👏👏
Is there any other creators that do stuff like this? Would love to see more stuff like this it's very cool
Nice one Jessica. I have recently purchased a resin 3d printer and I'm looking forward to printing these!
Reminds me of wondering how to model ball joints and sockets for this sort of thing, the clearances involved and such.
Looks great! Just got my first resinn printer today. Need to setup a full safety process and location to put the printer before i can even think about printing something like this. The inside doesn't cure right? Im worried someone with kids may try printing stuff like this and it gets into the kids hands and eventually mouth.
so would you rather recommend assemble them after or before curing? what type resin was it printed on? does it work with standard resin or ABS-like ones?
You always can put a coat of resin on the balljoints to fix that loose grip ;)