If you follow our Amazon link: amzn.to/3crMXRZ anything you buy there doesn't raise your prices or anything, but pays us a royalty for sending you there. Thank you for everyone that has been buying things, we appreciate it!!!
I think the 2032 isn't rechargeable, is it? Basically the thing will take about anything, you just have to make sure not to charge one that won't charge, and add the diode... but if it's rechargeable you could just wire it right up. Anything anywhere like 3volts will work.
You got it right. Silver solder coating tends to go black when it tarnishes. The tin type coatings tend to stay clean, unless you get battery damage. It was definitely a good idea to remove the battery and replace it. Tantalums are used because (when not shorted) they have extremely low leakage. Replacing with an Electrolytic is appropriate as long as it is a low leakage, high quality electrolytic. In this situation, I don't think it makes much difference though. Love your work. It is always great to see someone who actually enjoys bringing these back to life working on them.
Love love love watching your videos on Rock Ola 445 and Rock Ola jukeboxes as I am an avid music fan and loved using these as a youngster. Watching from Cazenovia NY (outside Syracuse NY) Wonderful to see people who still keep up with fixing these classic machines!
That was an awesome fix. it's amazing how many things you can fix by simply replacing the caps that are known to go bad, and systematically testing them the way you did. Great job Ron. - Brant
Thanks Brant, we appreciate you watching... yes, most things if they're a few years old can be repaired pretty simply. The newer they are though the harder it's getting :)
Watching From Newport, Wales, United Kingdom. Really enjoy your videos. I used to be a field service engineer for video games, fruitmachines, jukeboxes, anything that was out in service. Left that job in 2003.
Hi Dale! Thanks for watching, glad to see a field service engineer jump in and watch with us. I did that for a little while, back around 2006-2009 or so. Lots of people watching in the UK I'll have to come visit some day!
Wow! After watching several of your videos I bought a 496-1 for $100. I pick it up Sunday. Cant wait. Have wanted a jukebox for 50 years. I just love their mechanical complexity. Keep up the good work. I just subscribed!
Great to see another jukebox fix on the channel! I have a 474 in the shop awaiting a new logic IC for the profit setter board, must get round to sorting that - this video has motivated me to get on with it!
Very cool Kentucky! I'm hoping more people save the ones that are out there, it's a shame so many have been destroyed. You can get them up and running again for sure!
You might want to consider Big Clive's camera setup for working on boards on the bench. Think it'll save you both the headache of the tripod and free your hands up to use your nice new leads.
At the company where I work for I always use a FLIR heat camera to find a component which is short. A couple of years ago I had a Samsung Plasma TV with a short +3,3V on the mainboard and it was impossible to find the short component because there were 50 or more SMD-components connected to that 3.3V-line. With the FLIR I had found the short component within 5 seconds without removing the other components.
Hi Ron, I've always heard that oxidation on silver (aka tarnish) is conductive. That's generally considered a good thing with things like switch contacts. That way a bit of oxidation doesn't create a problem. You may not need to go out of your way to clean them if you know they are silver. High end telegraph keys always used silver contacts :)
I'd never heard that but it's good to know... I guess the next thing would be identifying if you know for sure it's silver or not :) Thanks for watching Mike, we appreciate it as always!
Any chance of fixing the other controller board while you have this machine out and a working board to test against, or is that one well and truly dead. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Dord we appreciate you watching, I've never heard of Shropshire but everytime I Hear a 'shire' I assume it's the UK :) See you on the next video!
Joe's Classic Video Games Shropshire is a large countryside county roughly in the middle of the U.K. with lots of beautiful rolling hills and rivers, very picturesque 😀
Hey ron,did they cut the sound on the record,as it went deadly quiet ? Great video,and as always thank you for taking the time to film this,the repairs paid off in the end !! :) x
They demonetized it unless I let them mute the song , what I typically do is make a separate video with it playing a song so they can do whatever they want to just that video and all the other content is left alone.
Hey Ron, thank you for this video! It was very entertaining to watch and very informative. I've been working on replacing tants with electrolytics as much as I can! Also, I watch from Illinois
Very cool, thank you Douglas for watching :) Those Tantalums are horrible, I had to work on a pinball machine today and rebuild the reset section, it has a tantalum in it and the kit had a replacement tantalum so I went ahead and put it in :)
On these machines there are two springloaded tabs you can push in on the back side of the selection panel that drops it down so you can see it while you cycle through the settings and make selections while the door is up.
Yeah, those caps going bad causes shorts to ground, very common problem. You have the best job, you get to play with this gear and make money in the process!
Greetings from Madison, WI! A couple of nit-picky type questions, just because... - I noticed what appeared to be burn marks (discoloration) on the bottom of the unit cage. Any speculation as to the cause, and is this cause for concern? - I saw that one of the EPROMs was exposed (no label covering the window). I realize that the chip is covered by the metal cover of the unit, but is it cause for concern that the chip is unlabeled?
The eprom probably had a sticker on it at some time that fell off.... It's one of those things where technically the light in the cabinet might be able to erase it, but it takes a ton of time and a ton of light, I had a friend leave an eprom on his dashboard for a month and the thing still verified so I don't think it's that big of a problem. If I remember to though usually I cover them back up with a sticker. The burn marks are heat from the power supply directly beneath it, there are large heat sinks just under it.
@@LyonsArcade Those Bastards! Honestly, they get a little carried away with removing audio from videos. Anything that was said during that section was also censored.
I have been watching your videos for a while now. I have a Super Sound 2 watch I just started to have some problems with. First the display went out & now I cannot make any selection. Just watch the videos that I think may help. The Machine is in Ocean City NJ. I will test this weekend & let you Know how I make out.
Enjoying the Jukin', thanks! Is that battery powering the 6116 RAM right above it? I wonder if you can get rid of that battery completely by using one of these 6116 NV RAMs that are around in the pinball market? I mean, it doesn't matter to the RAM if it operates in a pinball or a juke box, right? I replaced the 6116 in my Pole Position with a NV version and it works like a charm. No more leaking or empty batteries, I love it.
I read a suggestion to change the tantalum capacitor with non-polarized capacitors. What do you think? The capacitor I think is usually .1 or 1 micro-farad.
I have a Rock Ola 490-2 and it looks like the tantalums were replaced with more tantalums. Hard to know when. I'm guessing it didn't work as the +25V light STILL doesn't go on. Looks like the guy actually changed everything and finally gave up so now I have it. I've figured out a way to get it to work with one deftly placed zip tie on one of the mechanisms but now the carousel is always moving unless there's a record playing. Kind of annoying. I may look to replace those same tantalums that you did. I have a parts catalog that says they are 35V, but I don't have the originals and can't tell the uF. Shall I assume they're the same as yours and look for 10uF 35V ceramic caps?
Yes they should be 10uf 35v... If the carousel is moving non stop, it may be searching for a record, does it pick up selected records reliably? These things keep memory of selections, so if it's running non stop it may be scanning trying to find records it thinks it is supposed to play.
@@LyonsArcade yeah it finds records and as long as you have more in the cue it will scan, find them and play them. But as soon as it runs out of records to search it'll just spin and spin until you input another number. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be at rest when awaiting a number. It must have something to do with the circuit being shorted. Just ordered a replacement for each tantalum and I'll give it a shot though with no more corner RadioShack stores all caps need to be bought online and everything is taking at least a week to ship. I'm so impatient! Thanks for the videos, these really help to educate and pass the time!
Wow!!! Great job on this. I have a friend that has this exact same control unit that has failed. Any idea where to find the values of the new caps you put In?
So, I've only got the two outer lights illuminating on my 490-2 (24 VAC and 5.7 VDC) and my jukebox powers up/plays just fine. It is currently stuck on default pricing and is giving me the PASS 0 as seen in your other videos, but I just use free-play anyway so it's no big deal. Any idea what would work differently (or better?) if I was able to get those other two lights (+26 VDC and -28 VDC to come on? I do have a 120hz buzz that I'm trying to troubleshoot. Don't know if those two things are related or not. Thanks!
The machine must have those voltages if it's working so the LED's have probably just burned out, I've heard of that before.... the buzz is probably caps in the power supply or amp but it might be something in the pickup too, i'm not really an audio guy because the buzz never bothers me so I never really look too far into fixing that...
@@LyonsArcade Thanks as always for the reply! That makes sense about the LEDs being burned out. Upon further inspection, the +26 light is just BARELY lit. I pulled the cover off of the power supply and the largest of the capacitors is puffy at the top and quite crusty, so hopefully that's our culprit for the buzzing. Also, when I remove the power supply plug from the amp, it makes a loud popping sound thru the speakers when I plug it back in. I'm going to order replacements for all 3 of those large capacitors from Newark, as you suggested. I noticed there is a blue tantalum one on that board as well. It's rated 1uf, but I'm not sure on the voltage and the schematics don't specify. Looks like my options are 35 or 50. Do I just go with the largest???
Removed my PCB to check if the previous owner had replaced the battery and they had not. I was lucky as there was only a little corrosion on the negative side, which had not leaked onto the board. Phew. Anyway, I'd like to do what you did with a coin battery, but there are SO many coin batteries to choose from and the holders are all based on "size". I know I need a 3 volt, but do you remember which number you went with and what size holder? Also, as far as the diode goes, are there any specifications for it? Thank you!
I used a CR2032, which is a really common one... the battery holders should specify that battery... and the diode I used was a 1n4007 the most common diode you can get, you place it where the banded side is away from the positive side of the battery, so that voltage can leave the battery on the positive line, go through the diode, and into the board. Voltage can't go into the diode from the board, because the banded side of the diode blocks it.
@@LyonsArcade Thanks so much! I got my buzz to go away somehow. Replaced the caps in the power supply...still buzzed. Took out the amp and PCB to document the caps I needed to order and when I put all of that back in, the buzz disappeared. Kills me that I don't know what was causing it, but glad that's its gone! I did clean the contacts at the top of the PCB and a few of the others in the amp, but maybe it was just a loose ground that I secured when I put it all together 🤷♂️
Do you get your electronic components (capacitors) from amazon too?.. Quite happy to get them from there to help you out? Gearing up to repair my STD3 jukebox.
We get ours in bulk from Newark.com but we buy a ton of each and keep them in stock. So when we start getting low we order 200 1uf50v capacitors, or 200 47uf160v capacitors, etc. We have a little bin we keep them all sorted in. you could probably get some on amazon but I don't know if you'd be able to get the particular ones you might need! Thanks for watching, good luck on that STD3!
Ah rats, watched the video after the Tube muted the music. But another great video. I'm really thinking of picking the one that I keep seeing in CL near me in Denver. Thanks again.
@@LyonsArcade Shit, I'm not a good fit in WA! Sadly the toxic environment that's been created in the puget sound region has made our state famous for all the wrong reasons. The puget sound region is a tiny part of WA. The vast majority of WA doesn't agree with how the relatively small region chooses to handle things. It's sickening.
I think you read the wrong address number. (the record was sitting between the 1-11 and 1-21 labels, so it could easily be that it uses 'below shelve' addressing ... for comparison, my nearest grocery store puts the product information tags above the shelve, whereas the second closest puts them below the shelve)
In this instance it was an adjustment and a piece that had broken, we're going to do another video Friday that shows what we found. there's a little arrow on the sticker that shows which way the number goes...
Back in the day, that song "Roll to Me" by Del Amitri got played all the time on the radio because it was shorter than all the other songs. = More commercial time. So yeah, they know all about speed runs :)
Silver coating, not a good idea. They coated the j-wires on some vintage organs and keyboards with silver and they go black. I opened a Yamaha DX7 and some of the custom chips have gold legs, now that's quality.
Did you know we have a second channel? It's called "My Brother Donnie" and follows me and my brother fixing up an old mobile home (at the moment)... check it out! th-cam.com/channels/uDDNTFs-BLcNYq4DO-BYYA.html
Why would the jukebox need a battery? It shouldn't be saving the high score right. One can't play a game of jukebox and defeat the end boss and get the high score. It's not possible.
It was to save the settings, and the statistics.... it was very important when the operator went in to know which records people were playing and more importantly which records they weren't playing, so they could remove the ones that weren't making any money and put in brand new records that might earn something.... so the battery saved all that information.
Well that makes sense. But still have yearning to defeat the jukeboxes high score? Can you give any Insider information? I can perform g18 under 2 seconds. How do that under 1 second?
Sorry I was being a smart ass. My bad. I thought it was something technical. But rather make fun of it. Because why not. Respect for your channel. Never take anything I say seriously because I can make fun of it. But it's never serious.
I love how everyone gets strikes these days for playing a small audio clip.... Yes, TH-cam/record companies... I'm taking the audio with people talking over it and not even the full song... and burning it to a CD so I can get a partial low quality track and listen to it on loop FOR FREE!!!! You are losing so much money hahaha I WIN!!!!!
I have a Rock Ola Model 490 Super Sound Domestic and Export Wiring Diagram if you are interested in making a photo copy reach out to me. I live about 45 mins from your your store
@@LyonsArcade 490. I purchased one last week. It contained a packet inside labeled device Information. It has the letter of warranty, and all diagrams.
If you follow our Amazon link: amzn.to/3crMXRZ anything you buy there doesn't raise your prices or anything, but pays us a royalty for sending you there. Thank you for everyone that has been buying things, we appreciate it!!!
Depending on the charging cycles could a LM2032 be used instead of a Diode CR2032?
I think the 2032 isn't rechargeable, is it? Basically the thing will take about anything, you just have to make sure not to charge one that won't charge, and add the diode... but if it's rechargeable you could just wire it right up. Anything anywhere like 3volts will work.
You got it right. Silver solder coating tends to go black when it tarnishes. The tin type coatings tend to stay clean, unless you get battery damage. It was definitely a good idea to remove the battery and replace it.
Tantalums are used because (when not shorted) they have extremely low leakage. Replacing with an Electrolytic is appropriate as long as it is a low leakage, high quality electrolytic. In this situation, I don't think it makes much difference though.
Love your work. It is always great to see someone who actually enjoys bringing these back to life working on them.
Thank you Brendan we always appreciate your comments... see you on the next video!
Love love love watching your videos on Rock Ola 445 and Rock Ola jukeboxes as I am an avid music fan and loved using these as a youngster. Watching from Cazenovia NY (outside Syracuse NY) Wonderful to see people who still keep up with fixing these classic machines!
That was an awesome fix. it's amazing how many things you can fix by simply replacing the caps that are known to go bad, and systematically testing them the way you did. Great job Ron. - Brant
Thanks Brant, we appreciate you watching... yes, most things if they're a few years old can be repaired pretty simply. The newer they are though the harder it's getting :)
Ferndale, Michigan here. Love your videos.
Thanks Hope Remains we appreciate you hanging out with us!
Watching your repairs from France with the same enjoyment as usual . Great stuff. Thanks for posting such videos, much appreciated.
Thank you Tonero we appreciate you always tuning in!
@@LyonsArcade Always instructive with the circuitry and your analysis in the approach of a problem. Many thanks.
Watching From Newport, Wales, United Kingdom.
Really enjoy your videos. I used to be a field service engineer for video games, fruitmachines, jukeboxes, anything that was out in service. Left that job in 2003.
Hi Dale! Thanks for watching, glad to see a field service engineer jump in and watch with us. I did that for a little while, back around 2006-2009 or so. Lots of people watching in the UK I'll have to come visit some day!
Wow! After watching several of your videos I bought a 496-1 for $100. I pick it up Sunday. Cant wait. Have wanted a jukebox for 50 years. I just love their mechanical complexity. Keep up the good work. I just subscribed!
Great to see another jukebox fix on the channel! I have a 474 in the shop awaiting a new logic IC for the profit setter board, must get round to sorting that - this video has motivated me to get on with it!
I haven't done too much component level repair yet on these but I'm sure on the next one I'll have to! Hope you get that 474 up and going!
God Bless whoever sent those leads!
That was cool wasn’t it?
Kentucky is watching! I just picked up a Rockola 496 45 full of records yesterday along with a legend 7000 cd Hope to check them out today
Very cool Kentucky! I'm hoping more people save the ones that are out there, it's a shame so many have been destroyed. You can get them up and running again for sure!
@@LyonsArcade I have a 496 series myself. How do you adjust the volume? I see Volume Control on the inside but can not figure out how to adjust?
Hi Ron, your accent is perfectly understandable and I enjoy listening to you narration. Cheers.
Thank you grig2, we appreciate you watching! See you on the next video :)
You might want to consider Big Clive's camera setup for working on boards on the bench. Think it'll save you both the headache of the tripod and free your hands up to use your nice new leads.
I kind of like how I do it, just pick up the camera and film a bit as I go
I enjoyed seeing you do your magic with the control unit. I agree this is a very nice looking jukebox.
Thanks melanated prose, we appreciate you watching!
Another great video. Great repair job and good decision on replacing that battery.
Thank you for watching Robert!
At the company where I work for I always use a FLIR heat camera to find a component which is short. A couple of years ago I had a Samsung Plasma TV with a short +3,3V on the mainboard and it was impossible to find the short component because there were 50 or more SMD-components connected to that 3.3V-line. With the FLIR I had found the short component within 5 seconds without removing the other components.
Great video,always learn something from you. joe,bethlehem pa
Outstanding video. Very helpful!
Nice video, I just started to repair a 494.
Very cool Donald... they are very nice machines once they're working again!
Jukeboxes are such magnificent machines!
They are very cool!
Watching from the remote scottish highlands overlooking the railway bridge from harry potter films.... always enjoy your vids - relaxing....
Very cool, we appreciate you tuning in!
Watching from Naselle, WA. Thank you for the entertaining vids.
Thanks Chris, we appreciate you watching with us! See you on the next one....
Hi Ron, I've always heard that oxidation on silver (aka tarnish) is conductive. That's generally considered a good thing with things like switch contacts. That way a bit of oxidation doesn't create a problem. You may not need to go out of your way to clean them if you know they are silver. High end telegraph keys always used silver contacts :)
I'd never heard that but it's good to know... I guess the next thing would be identifying if you know for sure it's silver or not :) Thanks for watching Mike, we appreciate it as always!
Good work ron ive never been into jukeboxes but it was very interesting love your work 👍☺
Thank you for watching 43 Delta Bravo 666!
Any chance of fixing the other controller board while you have this machine out and a working board to test against, or is that one well and truly dead. Thanks for the video.
I believe it can be repaired! Luckily the chips are all socketed, too....
Watching from Shropshire in the mid UK love your vids
Thanks Dord we appreciate you watching, I've never heard of Shropshire but everytime I Hear a 'shire' I assume it's the UK :) See you on the next video!
Joe's Classic Video Games Shropshire is a large countryside county roughly in the middle of the U.K. with lots of beautiful rolling hills and rivers, very picturesque 😀
Hello excellent video! Were you able to find a schematic for the RockOla 490?
Unfortunately no. A lot of people have them, and I've had three people send them to me, but they're all for the newer machine the 490-1 or 490-2.
@@LyonsArcade I have the original 490 schematic. Do you happen to have or know who may have the CPU board 54370-1A.? Same as on your video here?
Hey ron,did they cut the sound on the record,as it went deadly quiet ? Great video,and as always thank you for taking the time to film this,the repairs paid off in the end !! :) x
Yes youtube gave me a copyright notice and muted the jerry reed song...
@ Joe's Classic Video Games so did they demonetize your video for that? i would take it down and edit it so that you can remove that song
@@LyonsArcade Dirty Barstewards :/ x
They demonetized it unless I let them mute the song , what I typically do is make a separate video with it playing a song so they can do whatever they want to just that video and all the other content is left alone.
Need to get a licence free test record.
Hey Ron, thank you for this video! It was very entertaining to watch and very informative. I've been working on replacing tants with electrolytics as much as I can!
Also, I watch from Illinois
Very cool, thank you Douglas for watching :) Those Tantalums are horrible, I had to work on a pinball machine today and rebuild the reset section, it has a tantalum in it and the kit had a replacement tantalum so I went ahead and put it in :)
On these machines there are two springloaded tabs you can push in on the back side of the selection panel that drops it down so you can see it while you cycle through the settings and make selections while the door is up.
Yeah, those caps going bad causes shorts to ground, very common problem. You have the best job, you get to play with this gear and make money in the process!
It’s a pain sometimes!
Greetings from Madison, WI!
A couple of nit-picky type questions, just because...
- I noticed what appeared to be burn marks (discoloration) on the bottom of the unit cage. Any speculation as to the cause, and is this cause for concern?
- I saw that one of the EPROMs was exposed (no label covering the window). I realize that the chip is covered by the metal cover of the unit, but is it cause for concern that the chip is unlabeled?
The eprom probably had a sticker on it at some time that fell off.... It's one of those things where technically the light in the cabinet might be able to erase it, but it takes a ton of time and a ton of light, I had a friend leave an eprom on his dashboard for a month and the thing still verified so I don't think it's that big of a problem. If I remember to though usually I cover them back up with a sticker.
The burn marks are heat from the power supply directly beneath it, there are large heat sinks just under it.
@@LyonsArcade I suspected as much, now I know... And knowing is half the battle... :-)
Did TH-cam automatically remove the audio of the record starting at 23:50?
Yes, they did
@@LyonsArcade Those Bastards! Honestly, they get a little carried away with removing audio from videos. Anything that was said during that section was also censored.
I always worry when I see an EPROM with no mask over the window...
Great vid as ever! 😎
Thank you for watching Cliff, we appreciate you hanging out with us!
I have been watching your videos for a while now. I have a Super Sound 2 watch I just started to have some problems with. First the display went out & now I cannot make any selection. Just watch the videos that I think may help. The Machine is in Ocean City NJ. I will test this weekend & let you Know how I make out.
Enjoying the Jukin', thanks! Is that battery powering the 6116 RAM right above it? I wonder if you can get rid of that battery completely by using one of these 6116 NV RAMs that are around in the pinball market? I mean, it doesn't matter to the RAM if it operates in a pinball or a juke box, right? I replaced the 6116 in my Pole Position with a NV version and it works like a charm. No more leaking or empty batteries, I love it.
I think you could probably do that, yes, and it's in a socket so it might be a really easy update on these. Never tried it though.
Nice fix !
Thanks Andymouse!
I enjoy your videos; please don't use the tripod. I like your presentation, extreme patience and thorough description of what it is you are doing.
Thanks Tibor, I'm going to blame it on you if anybody complains :) Thanks for watching buddy we appreciate it!
@@LyonsArcade ROFL
I read a suggestion to change the tantalum capacitor with non-polarized capacitors. What do you think? The capacitor I think is usually .1 or 1 micro-farad.
shango066 likes those grabber-hook type test leads.
maybe he's the one that sent them, hmmm?????
I have a Rock Ola 490-2 and it looks like the tantalums were replaced with more tantalums. Hard to know when. I'm guessing it didn't work as the +25V light STILL doesn't go on. Looks like the guy actually changed everything and finally gave up so now I have it. I've figured out a way to get it to work with one deftly placed zip tie on one of the mechanisms but now the carousel is always moving unless there's a record playing. Kind of annoying. I may look to replace those same tantalums that you did. I have a parts catalog that says they are 35V, but I don't have the originals and can't tell the uF. Shall I assume they're the same as yours and look for 10uF 35V ceramic caps?
Yes they should be 10uf 35v... If the carousel is moving non stop, it may be searching for a record, does it pick up selected records reliably? These things keep memory of selections, so if it's running non stop it may be scanning trying to find records it thinks it is supposed to play.
@@LyonsArcade yeah it finds records and as long as you have more in the cue it will scan, find them and play them. But as soon as it runs out of records to search it'll just spin and spin until you input another number. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be at rest when awaiting a number. It must have something to do with the circuit being shorted. Just ordered a replacement for each tantalum and I'll give it a shot though with no more corner RadioShack stores all caps need to be bought online and everything is taking at least a week to ship. I'm so impatient! Thanks for the videos, these really help to educate and pass the time!
Wow!!! Great job on this. I have a friend that has this exact same control unit that has failed. Any idea where to find the values of the new caps you put In?
Jukebox attics got it.
Jukebox addicts 😀
So, I've only got the two outer lights illuminating on my 490-2 (24 VAC and 5.7 VDC) and my jukebox powers up/plays just fine. It is currently stuck on default pricing and is giving me the PASS 0 as seen in your other videos, but I just use free-play anyway so it's no big deal. Any idea what would work differently (or better?) if I was able to get those other two lights (+26 VDC and -28 VDC to come on? I do have a 120hz buzz that I'm trying to troubleshoot. Don't know if those two things are related or not. Thanks!
The machine must have those voltages if it's working so the LED's have probably just burned out, I've heard of that before.... the buzz is probably caps in the power supply or amp but it might be something in the pickup too, i'm not really an audio guy because the buzz never bothers me so I never really look too far into fixing that...
@@LyonsArcade Thanks as always for the reply! That makes sense about the LEDs being burned out. Upon further inspection, the +26 light is just BARELY lit.
I pulled the cover off of the power supply and the largest of the capacitors is puffy at the top and quite crusty, so hopefully that's our culprit for the buzzing. Also, when I remove the power supply plug from the amp, it makes a loud popping sound thru the speakers when I plug it back in. I'm going to order replacements for all 3 of those large capacitors from Newark, as you suggested. I noticed there is a blue tantalum one on that board as well. It's rated 1uf, but I'm not sure on the voltage and the schematics don't specify. Looks like my options are 35 or 50. Do I just go with the largest???
Just rock-it already, Joe! :o)
I’ll do a separate video of it playing so youtube doesn’t delete the whole thing!
Removed my PCB to check if the previous owner had replaced the battery and they had not. I was lucky as there was only a little corrosion on the negative side, which had not leaked onto the board. Phew. Anyway, I'd like to do what you did with a coin battery, but there are SO many coin batteries to choose from and the holders are all based on "size". I know I need a 3 volt, but do you remember which number you went with and what size holder? Also, as far as the diode goes, are there any specifications for it? Thank you!
I used a CR2032, which is a really common one... the battery holders should specify that battery... and the diode I used was a 1n4007 the most common diode you can get, you place it where the banded side is away from the positive side of the battery, so that voltage can leave the battery on the positive line, go through the diode, and into the board. Voltage can't go into the diode from the board, because the banded side of the diode blocks it.
@@LyonsArcade Thanks so much! I got my buzz to go away somehow. Replaced the caps in the power supply...still buzzed. Took out the amp and PCB to document the caps I needed to order and when I put all of that back in, the buzz disappeared. Kills me that I don't know what was causing it, but glad that's its gone! I did clean the contacts at the top of the PCB and a few of the others in the amp, but maybe it was just a loose ground that I secured when I put it all together 🤷♂️
@@LyonsArcade Successfully did this mod yesterday. Working perfectly. Thanks for the help!!!
Howdy from Phoenix, AZ! Think I started watching just before LGR bought his Missile Command from you. :)
Thank you Brian, we appreciate you watching in Phoenix! See you on the next video :)
You got all kinds of different kung fu styles man! You know bally, rockola, williams... =)
haha yeah, 'Rockola' would be a hell of a fighting style!
+Joe's Classic Video Games I was wondering if you could confirm which CPU was used on this board? Was it a Z80?
Yes, it's a Z80, and the Z80 'ctc' or whatever it's called...
@@LyonsArcade Thanks for the reply.
The Z80 was/is an amazing CPU; it found it's way into a huge amount of products.
Do you get your electronic components (capacitors) from amazon too?.. Quite happy to get them from there to help you out? Gearing up to repair my STD3 jukebox.
We get ours in bulk from Newark.com but we buy a ton of each and keep them in stock. So when we start getting low we order 200 1uf50v capacitors, or 200 47uf160v capacitors, etc. We have a little bin we keep them all sorted in. you could probably get some on amazon but I don't know if you'd be able to get the particular ones you might need! Thanks for watching, good luck on that STD3!
more pinball and arcade repairs soon with schematics and logic probe
Coming soon!
sounds good
The color bands should probably be read in reverse order (brown, black, blue). That would make it 10uF, which is a pretty common value for tantalums.
That was the correct value in the schematics you’re right!
I have a rockola 490 that started blowing the power fuse. Can you fix it for me ?
Ah rats, watched the video after the Tube muted the music. But another great video. I'm really thinking of picking the one that I keep seeing in CL near me in Denver. Thanks again.
I'll do a video Friday of it playing one, youtube copyrights be damned :) If the one on craigslist is cheap, GET IT
Do you have another control center for sale
Are all your videos posted about 4 weeks afterwards? ;)
Sometimes even more :) We have a whole bunch of them in the can!
You guys should close up shop, move to Arlington, WA and open up shop so I can come hang out.
Let me know if you do.
:)
maybe :) Probably not :) From what I can see, I don't think I'd fit in very good in Washington :)
@@LyonsArcade Shit, I'm not a good fit in WA!
Sadly the toxic environment that's been created in the puget sound region has made our state famous for all the wrong reasons.
The puget sound region is a tiny part of WA. The vast majority of WA doesn't agree with how the relatively small region chooses to handle things.
It's sickening.
I think you read the wrong address number. (the record was sitting between the 1-11 and 1-21 labels, so it could easily be that it uses 'below shelve' addressing ... for comparison, my nearest grocery store puts the product information tags above the shelve, whereas the second closest puts them below the shelve)
In this instance it was an adjustment and a piece that had broken, we're going to do another video Friday that shows what we found. there's a little arrow on the sticker that shows which way the number goes...
Replace those tantalum capacitors!! Choose a generic ceramic cap or mlcc ones. Those things can catch fire easily!
Watch the video umk
@@LyonsArcade yeah I noticed after I posted the comment. Must remember to watch video, then comment!!!
Even though I am sure there should be a speed run on jukebox playing on twitch.
And 100% sure Billy Mitchell already has a high score on it.
Back in the day, that song "Roll to Me" by Del Amitri got played all the time on the radio because it was shorter than all the other songs. = More commercial time. So yeah, they know all about speed runs :)
Silver coating, not a good idea. They coated the j-wires on some vintage organs and keyboards with silver and they go black. I opened a Yamaha DX7 and some of the custom chips have gold legs, now that's quality.
We get eproms like that sometimes with gold plating, it's pretty cool... they're always still pretty clean!
Ace Rockola.
One section of the video is muted
They didn’t like me playing a song for free so youtube scrubbed Jerry Reed out of that part!
Its a shame you cant see the mechanism moving once its closed up.
At the time that was out of Vogue this thing was made in the mid 1980's....
Brad from Mass..
Hi Brad, thanks for watching, we appreciate it!
Did you know we have a second channel? It's called "My Brother Donnie" and follows me and my brother fixing up an old mobile home (at the moment)... check it out! th-cam.com/channels/uDDNTFs-BLcNYq4DO-BYYA.html
I have a rockola 490.the system 2 isn't working.im from kansas.like watching your videos.would you be interested in fixing my cpu unit
i am watching from Hickory NC can i get a shout out thanks guys love your videos
Hi James, thanks for tuning in, I need to do a shoutout video :)
Maybe to avoid Copyright issues, try to get a Classical Music Single, something like Beethoven or any other artist who is long dead.
I think most of those are copyrighted too because the performance has copyrights.... but yes I’m sure there’s some that would be ok 😀
Why would the jukebox need a battery?
It shouldn't be saving the high score right.
One can't play a game of jukebox and defeat the end boss and get the high score.
It's not possible.
It was to save the settings, and the statistics.... it was very important when the operator went in to know which records people were playing and more importantly which records they weren't playing, so they could remove the ones that weren't making any money and put in brand new records that might earn something.... so the battery saved all that information.
Well that makes sense.
But still have yearning to defeat the jukeboxes high score?
Can you give any Insider information?
I can perform g18 under 2 seconds.
How do that under 1 second?
Sorry I was being a smart ass.
My bad.
I thought it was something technical.
But rather make fun of it.
Because why not.
Respect for your channel.
Never take anything I say seriously because I can make fun of it.
But it's never serious.
I have no idea why but the statement.
Take out those chips and clean those legs.
Made me giggle a bit.
I love how everyone gets strikes these days for playing a small audio clip.... Yes, TH-cam/record companies... I'm taking the audio with people talking over it and not even the full song... and burning it to a CD so I can get a partial low quality track and listen to it on loop FOR FREE!!!! You are losing so much money hahaha I WIN!!!!!
I think they just do it so they don't get sued by the RIAA....
Where do you live? House call????
I have a Rock Ola Model 490 Super Sound Domestic and Export Wiring Diagram if you are interested in making a photo copy reach out to me. I live about 45 mins from your your store
Is it for the 490, the 490-1, or the 490-2?
@@LyonsArcade 490. I purchased one last week. It contained a packet inside labeled device Information. It has the letter of warranty, and all diagrams.
@@LyonsArcade I sent you an email to the store email address with photos
Joe call me I have 498 and have questions