Wish I would have had you for Industrial arts class in high school, then maybe the equipment that our school had would not have sat idle and then got scrapped after I graduated. Always wanted to learn machinery operations, and your one hell of a good instructor. Well done sir!
Mr Pete, Thanks again for another great video, I'm sure the rest of the series will be just as interesting. You have a gift of taking something that looks complicated and breaking it down into a series of relatively simple steps that make it very clear.
Mr. PETE your videos are very informative especially this one. Your use of my dad's machinist rule #1 "If you don't have it or can't get it MAKE IT" philosophy is wonderful to see! I recieved a 1948 Craftsman table saw with a rack type of saw guide slide which is broken at both ends unfortunately. I may have to have a replacement made by a local machine shop if I can't find another saw like it for parts! Great job!
A++++ mrpete I still think that one of the slickest gadget or improvised tool is the one you did with the 100 tooth saw blade I will never forget that one!!!! to make a Improvised Dividing head when you did the video on marking the new hand wheels for your lathe I can't what to try that as well as all the other Great Ideas that you have so kindly shared with ALL of us!!!!
Hi Mr Pete, I think this is the best video series you've ever done. You have explained gear cutting so well, just the right amount of information for the youtube audience. I personally would like more information, but I know that would bring out the Trolls. LOL Looking forward to the rest of the videos. Thanks for doing your videos. Dale d
Great series!!! I know I'am going to enjoy this and I know many others will also. This will be a wonderful learning and clarification of gear work! Thanks, Dick
Great video. I will never cut a rack but you have me curious enough to dig out my machinery handbook from 1967. Yup an old woodworker has a machinery handbook, in fact I have two. When I graduated from high school I trained as a mechanical draftsman and we used that book constantly. But I never spent much time looking at the gear section and after your detailed explanation in this two part video I am curious enough to do a bit of reading. Imagine if you will me trying to cut a rack on my table saw, big toothy grin here...
Hi mrpete, Fun video on how to make a short rack gear showing everything from A to Z. One thing that could be done to make a longer rack on a Bridgeport, if the machine allows tilting the head 90 degrees laterally you could make a much longer rack, playing with the quill and the cutter holder's length. Just a suggestion... Thanks for sharing, Pierre
interesting pair of videos on making that little rack. I've always been fascinated with gears and gear cutting. I have to admit I have a habit of cheating when repairing stuff and to make my job easier I would have just heated the original part in the forge to a cherry red and dropped it into sand or vermiculite and let it cool slowly .then chucked it in the lathe and drilled out the broken end and installed the drill bit as you did. reassembled it on the dividing head and went and had a nap.
My comment is not relevant to the gear cutting but pertains to the direct indexing pin being an undersized drill bit and having no taper. At its best, direct indexing has its built in inaccuracies. Having the index pin of uniform diameter and small enough for an easy engagement into the index plate increases the inaccuracy between any two holes by the slop between the index pin and the index hole. Following Pete's method otherwise for the repair, I'd recommend selecting a drill a bit that is too large and then turning (grinding) a self-releasing taper on the pin (drill bit) to achieve an easy entry diameter at its tip. The tapered pin ensures full contact with the diameter of the straight holes in the index plate taking out as much of the inherent slop as one moves from one index hole to the next before locking the rotation in place.
+Joe Blumber yes, I thought the same thing with the pin being tapered to insure no backlash in the hole, thus probably the reason it was designed with such a strong internal spring, to hold a small concentric contact area between the pin and hole very tightly. I commend the work however and always learn something every time, you're a great instructor mrpete222!
Very nice, I hope you are planning to do a bit more on gears. Would love to see a bit more making a pinion and spur gear. Perfect combination of theory, math and practical application! Thanks
Greetings from Australia I've enjoyed all your video's that I have watched so far on gear cutting. If you cut the hole deeper for the spring you will relieve the pressure on the indexer. Regards Paul
Lyle, I am not familiar with dividing heads and you are doing a great job showing the features and demonstrating how they work. I am looking for a reasonably priced dividing head and when I find one I suspect I will be watching this series again. Thank you, Harvey from Nebraska
A+ mrpete222, I got to tip the hat to you after finding these videos and following just a few years this is the first ever that I have commented on. good job. I enjoy this more than 100 channels of cable garbage. being a tool & die guy for 19 years out of 30 in the plant. Tom from MI. I like the foundry stuff also .so cool I want to build a furnace to melt some aluminum.
It looks like your original index pin was broken off when someone tried to unscrew the chuck relying on the pin to stop rotation.A very nice demonstration.
Another excellent tutorial video! I am sure you would have had a taper at the end of the original indexing pin to eliminate any "backlash" in the system when the pin was fully engaged, this could have been achieved by making the pin slightly larger diameter and turning down the front 3/16" to give easier register.
Thanks again. I just buy a Cincinnati dividing head like that one. That part is missing, not only the rack but all the group. I will now have a fun job do. Make one...
The original pin had a radius on it, do you guess that the radius self centered in the hole, so the rotation was the same each time? The straight pin will have a little play in the hole, so to keep the position from hole to hole rotation the same you could always rotate the plate against the side of the pin, or is this over kill. Thank you for the detail and well explained videos I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to make the, HH
Hi mrpete, Great videos. You also could have cut a rack on your Rhodes shaper for fun. Also one little point on the index pin, the ones I've seen on my dividing head and spin indexer are tapered on the end. Of course it may not matter much if the fit is close enough and you could always change it since you loctited it in.
I know it must have been mentioned and it i bet was fun to make and you did of course a superb job as usual but could you not have just faced and drilled the old one for the drill bit pin?... I am sure i answered my own question but the lesson was to make a rack and pinion demonstration I imagine....again i enjoyed your presentation and again learned something new.......Thanks and cheers.
great job man! thanks for sharing the video, I really enjoyed watching it, I just want to mention one thing! letting that click jump itself is not so good idea, it looks to me just like a little hammer hitting that indexing wheel every time. the power of the spring can make marks on the indexing wheel after sometime, and it can also affect the gear that you made or the pinion that is intact with it, and maybe the pin that you made can come out after sometime. so I think it is better to hold the click handle until the lock pin is in place. I think that´s the best for the safety of the gears, indexing wheel and the indexing pin also. I am not a professional machinist but I just want to mention this. I love your videos and again thanks for sharing them with us, and keep doing the great job!!!
Another great series of videos! I took copious notes & stuck them in my Boston Gear catalog. Comment: I can see the chatter improves as you go down on the rack and there is more support/rigidity to your setup. Thanks for the inspiration to do this at home!
+bentontool ; I would think if the rack were to be used in constant motion on a tool of some sort, a more accurate ( stiffer ) setup and possibly a rough cut followed by a shallow finish cut, in a climb milling direction for a smoother finish on the teeth... might be an improvement.
Another great pair of instructional videos. I'm still trying to figure out if the length of the tool hanging out is relivant. As long as the profile of the tool is correct, the circular cutter's diameter was determined by the number of cutters (in my humble opinion).
I don't have very much experience with dividing heads I have only used two I think one was a Harding that I used one time it was not mine it was my brother-in-law's and I have my Chinese one that it was all that I could afford at the time and both of them for direct indexing that pin has a between one and two degree taper on it. It's not a straight pin! It actually gets kind of stuck in that hole where it takes a little bit of a pull to get it out. I noticed it on the Hardinge as well
Also wonder if that radius on the original pin, and the slight chamfer of the holes on the plate allowed it to really self center better than a straight sided pin?
rrangana11 I totally agree with this, as the pin clips within the hole, this chamfer makes it fit exactly at the same relative position from the center of the timing wheel hole. Tightening the nut on the side should only prevent it from getting out. mrpete222 should have turned the whole piece and then hardened it for better precision. Anyway, there should be a rough 1/200" backlash with the piece made here.
Hi Mr. Pete, I was wondering about compounding errors by resetting the z axis to 0 after every move, wouldn't it be more accurate to just keep adding the .131 each time? I understand the reduction of errors in your method. Just wondering.
Great video, gear cutting can be a lot of fun. It's amazing the precision we can accomplish if we pay attention to details. One suggestion I have is that when you make vertical movements with the knee, don't reset to zero each time. Instead, write down a list of way points. This eliminates accumulated error. Actually, the same goes when even using a DRO. For instance, rather then moving 0.500" then reset and move another 0.500", start at 0.500, then 1.000, then 1.500 and so on. I'm I making sense?
You milled .012" off the round stock and then used the full calculated depth of tooth. When making a rack do you always start from a flat surface on round stock and does this in anyway effect the depth of tooth?
It seems as though the original pin had a radius on it's base so that it could hold the center of the position. Is there any "play" in the new pin when it's engaged?
I see that you came across one of those elusive unexplained oil holes. Usually some one quickly stamps the table or what not with the word oil after accidently drilling into the table or such.
Might the oil holes on top just be input for the oil, and you fill it untill the oil starts coming out from the side oiling hole (next to the worm gear disengage'ing levers)?
Hi mrpete, have a bit of a tricky question: my bridgeport (J-head, vintage 1964) has metric dials on it. would i need to change the lead screws if i were to swap out the metric dials for imperial? someday it will be retrofitted with a DRO but that's a little off in the in future, for now the quick & dirty would be to swap the dials
Here's how to determine if the lead screws are english. On mine, one full turn of the crank is .200". That makes the screws 5 threads per inch. Use an indicator to determine if one tunn on yours i s moving the table .200. Also look under the table with a light. Using a ruler, count the threads in one inch. Should be 5 tpi if english. pete
Great Video (as usual) and thanks. Quick question (not related to this video). A while back you did a video on something which also included the use of a 'push' oiler which looked like a push grease gun. I have looked back over dozens of your videos but couldn't find the one in question. Would you happen to know which one it was? Thanks again Rod
Can I ask why you made the new rack, when you could maybe have just faced the old broken one, drilled it and lock tighted the drill into the original rack? Don’t get me wrong, it was the most informative video I’ve ever seen & just totally riveting to watch.
I don't know if you would care to answer this question or not, but here goes. I have always been fascinated by machining of things and now that I'm retired I intend to learn. What brand name and or model would be a good lathe to have, to learn the old style machining? I've been looking around on line and see that there are tons of types and brand names. I see you're using a Cincinnati and since I live with in driving distance of Cincinnati, a Cincinnati may be more likely to be found around here. When I but tools I'm of the type to rather not buy a tool and turn around and have to repeat the process for an additional function. I really enjoyed your trip to Detroit, I lived in Chicago as a youth for a while and went there myself. Thanks
hi Julian, i concur with mrpetes recommendation for brands on lathes. craigslist is a good place to start looking as you can come across deals locally you won't find in ebay, although ebay can also be a good place to get a good used lathe as well if you don't mind driving a distance to pick up your machine. i would stay away from the chinese imports since they require a higher degree of skill in the set up since the quality of the machines leaves a lot to be desired. even experienced machinists have their share of problems with setting up on these machines and getting consistent results. US and british manufacturers operate to much more exacting specs than do the hobbyist machine manufacturers of china and taiwan such as grizzly and jet. there will be some guys out there who disagree, who have had good luck with their machines. but these are the lucky guys who either got a good tuesday machine or overhauled it to make it work. if you do decide to buy a cheapy you should consider throwing away the chuck and buying a good american made or german (Röhm or Forqhardt) chuck. same thing on the live center. another consideration would be to replace the spindle bearings with either timken, SKF or FAG brand bearings. the chinese ones are usually junk and often run out of round. this can get to be quite a spendy little hobby and to be frank about it you would be best served buying a decent used domestic machine. the lathe i have is a clausing and my experience with it has been very good, they are very good machine, other guys doing these videos in youtube are working off of south bend lathes and you can see for yourself the quality of what they are turning out. it speaks for itself. hope that helps you and happy machining!
What you would then need to do is go back and measure that outside diameter again. Any deviation from a whole number is due to, or a reflection of, a measurement error or wear. The 'outside' diameter is used in the formula because the 'pitch' diameter can't be measured, and adding the constant '2' makes up the difference.
I'm trying to find a fly cutter like the one in the video and all I find are the kind used for surface milling or those adjustable boring head thingys which are very expensive. I don't have a lathe I could use to make one. Any suggestions?
mrpete222 I've been enjoying your videos for a while now. I've been setting up a mini mill I got from harbor freight to produce a prototype of some inventions I've had in mind for quite a while. It's a lot slower going than I expected. Lots and lots to learn! Sheesh.
Thank you for reminding me why I would want to cut a rack. This may seem silly but started to watch this video thinking I would never need to cut a rack I'll just watch and learn 😁 At least until you reminded me of a project that I had forgotten about due to my thinking I would never find a suitable rack or have the equipment to cut a rack and now thanks to you I am going to build a good strong and correctly geared pillar drill as I can't find a new one that runs slow enough and with enough torque to use a hole saw or a large drill. I am planning to use a motorcycle gearbox and a high and low speed belt pulley. So thank you for your valuable education from myself and anyone else who didn't get to learn shop engineering at school due to the health and safety squad removing metal work from all public schools in northern Ireland 😭 And I would like to thank you for your videos on TH-cam. you are changing lives for the better world wide. 👍 Keep it up 👍
The factory shot pin looked tapered, no doubt to get a tight fit in the holes and provide precise indexing. The drill shank does not fit as snugly in the holes and therefore there is some lash in the indexing mechanism. I assume the outside holes could be used to hold the backplate fixed while you are unscrewing the chuck, the shot pin probably was broken as a result of someone using it to hold the backplate while they wrenched on the chuck.
Howdy do Tubalcain, I've had some good luck with some cheap import involute gear cutters. You can get full sets for around $70-80, granted they're not the best in the world, but they do the job well enough. They go for about $10 individually, if you'd like I can post up the site I've purchased a couple from.
If you had to cut a dovetail for a fixture and didnt have DT cutter /want to spend the $150 for one, could you use the same concept and shape a tool bit to cut it out the same as you did for the gear rack? Obviously multiple passes and size might matter.
Thanks for the lesson Mr. Pete! If you were only going to make the repair (and not an educational video), I suppose you could have faced off the broken piece, drilled the hole, and inserted your pin. Correct?
I have a K mfg dividing head. I can't seem to turn it 90 degree from it zero degrees. I've tried to lose the two nuts but it seem to be stuck. any suggestion?
At 7:50 you face off the end using a carbide insert, any reason for this over hss knowing that will be a semi interference cut as you reach the first gear tooth? Everything i know about machining is from you and Joe 🥧 on TH-cam!
@@mrpete222 good to know! I wasn't sure if it was because of the type of material you were cutting or just convenience thanks again! About to watch all your videos again to refresh my brain!
Joe M Mams. ok.....is that it? sure, why leave a useful comment when you can offer criticism, claim superiority but fail to offer anything of substance. way to be useless!
The oil holes go to the spindle. I just checked the drawings I have from mine. I could send you digital copies of the drawings from the manual and the brochure if you'd like for the Cin. 10-14" dividing heads.
If you drill a hole for the pin .. Wy not use the original part and drill a hole in that part. You can also unscruw the top nut en lift the part so it is not aligned with a hole. This release the pressure of the spring and there is no need to tighten the top screw
***** i had the same problem on mine and just made a new pin, drilled the plug and brazed the new pin in place. if the part is hardened it can be drawn back by heating it up to orange and inserting it into ashes to cool slowly.. then you can drill it easily with a cobalt alloyed drill or even an HSS. re-hardening is just as easy: just reheat to orange and quench it in oil.. on small pieces like that, cracking isn't too much of a problem. cracks usually develop if the process is repeated too many times
Wish I would have had you for Industrial arts class in high school, then maybe the equipment that our school had would not have sat idle and then got scrapped after I graduated. Always wanted to learn machinery operations, and your one hell of a good instructor. Well done sir!
Erik Trent Thanks very much for watching and for the nice complement
Mr Pete, Thanks again for another great video, I'm sure the rest of the series will be just as interesting. You have a gift of taking something that looks complicated and breaking it down into a series of relatively simple steps that make it very clear.
THANKS for watching
You certainly have not lost your touch. Instructive, entertaining and well made video series. Thank you again for sharing. It is much appreciated.
THANK YOU very much.
Mr. PETE your videos are very informative especially this one. Your use of my dad's machinist rule
#1 "If you don't have it or can't get it MAKE IT" philosophy is wonderful to see! I recieved a 1948 Craftsman table saw with a rack type of saw guide slide which is broken at both ends unfortunately. I may have to have a replacement made by a local machine shop if I can't find another saw like it for parts! Great job!
👍
Brilliant brilliant brilliant I was spellbound watching both of these videos. Thank you!!
THANKS for watching--didn't think I could spell bind anyone
Thank you for this series on cutting a gear rack. You have given me the confidence to do it myself by your clear explanation. Thank you.
THANKS for watching
A++++ mrpete I still think that one of the slickest gadget or improvised tool is the one you did with the 100 tooth saw blade I will never forget that one!!!! to make a Improvised Dividing head when you did the video on marking the new hand wheels for your lathe I can't what to try that as well as all the other Great Ideas that you have so kindly shared with ALL of us!!!!
THANKS for watching
mrpete222 ditto
Seeing how you ground the tool bit you used and watching you cut the teeth for the rack was Awesome to watch !!!
THANKS for watching
Amazing, Lyle. My homemade flycutter was in a one inch collet and STILL vibrated too much to do that. Amazing.
So far outstanding series Mr. Pete. Just the right amount of info. And if I may, no machine shop is complete without the Machinery's Handbook.
THANKS for watching. yes
Hi Mr Pete,
I think this is the best video series you've ever done. You have explained gear cutting so well, just the right amount of information for the youtube audience. I personally would like more information, but I know that would bring out the Trolls. LOL
Looking forward to the rest of the videos.
Thanks for doing your videos.
Dale d
THANKS for watching
That was a great video. I am looking forward to the next in this series!
THANKS for watching
Good job ,great to keep the old working as new!
Great series!!! I know I'am going to enjoy this and I know many others will also.
This will be a wonderful learning and clarification of gear work!
Thanks,
Dick
THANKS for watching
Even the vintage is great information, Thanks
Happy to say I actually learned a bit on this project.
THANKS!
***** THANKS
Very informative video. I will refer back to this in the event I want to cut a rack. Thanks for the video.
THANKS for watching
Great video. I will never cut a rack but you have me curious enough to dig out my machinery handbook from 1967. Yup an old woodworker has a machinery handbook, in fact I have two. When I graduated from high school I trained as a mechanical draftsman and we used that book constantly. But I never spent much time looking at the gear section and after your detailed explanation in this two part video I am curious enough to do a bit of reading. Imagine if you will me trying to cut a rack on my table saw, big toothy grin here...
👍👍
Hi mrpete,
Fun video on how to make a short rack gear showing everything from A to Z.
One thing that could be done to make a longer rack on a Bridgeport, if the machine allows tilting the head 90 degrees laterally you could make a much longer rack, playing with the quill and the cutter holder's length. Just a suggestion...
Thanks for sharing,
Pierre
THANKS for watching--good idea
new thing like bicycle trike
Pierre's Garage sale
interesting pair of videos on making that little rack. I've always been fascinated with gears and gear cutting. I have to admit I have a habit of cheating when repairing stuff and to make my job easier I would have just heated the original part in the forge to a cherry red and dropped it into sand or vermiculite and let it cool slowly .then chucked it in the lathe and drilled out the broken end and installed the drill bit as you did. reassembled it on the dividing head and went and had a nap.
THANKS for watching
Excellent. Looking forward to the rest of the series. regards from the UK
THANKS for watching
Thanks for the time and effort to make this infromative video.
THANKS for watching
Loved the video and your teaching style you would make a good teacher
My comment is not relevant to the gear cutting but pertains to the direct indexing pin being an undersized drill bit and having no taper. At its best, direct indexing has its built in inaccuracies. Having the index pin of uniform diameter and small enough for an easy engagement into the index plate increases the inaccuracy between any two holes by the slop between the index pin and the index hole. Following Pete's method otherwise for the repair, I'd recommend selecting a drill a bit that is too large and then turning (grinding) a self-releasing taper on the pin (drill bit) to achieve an easy entry diameter at its tip. The tapered pin ensures full contact with the diameter of the straight holes in the index plate taking out as much of the inherent slop as one moves from one index hole to the next before locking the rotation in place.
+Joe Blumber yes, I thought the same thing with the pin being tapered to insure no backlash in the hole, thus probably the reason it was designed with such a strong internal spring, to hold a small concentric contact area between the pin and hole very tightly. I commend the work however and always learn something every time, you're a great instructor mrpete222!
Hello Mrpete, I am really enjoying this series. I am looking forward to the gears. Regards
Very nice, I hope you are planning to do a bit more on gears. Would love to see a bit more making a pinion and spur gear. Perfect combination of theory, math and practical application!
Thanks
THANKS for watching
Another great video. Thank you Mr. Pete.
THANKS for watching
Great video, a lot of good tips.
Greetings from Australia
I've enjoyed all your video's that I have watched so far on gear cutting.
If you cut the hole deeper for the spring you will relieve the pressure on the indexer.
Regards Paul
Lyle, I am not familiar with dividing heads and you are doing a great job showing the features and demonstrating how they work. I am looking for a reasonably priced dividing head and when I find one I suspect I will be watching this series again. Thank you, Harvey from Nebraska
THANKS-bought mine o craigs list for under 300
great video, great work, i like how you expain it and why. thanks for sharing..
Mr. Pete , Thank you once again for another educational video ! I would have loved to have been a student of yours in school ! Best Regards , Art
Thanks for watching.
With a 90 degree spindle attachment, you could cut a very long rack.
My thoughts exactly. Yeah I know they are a bit expensive but would allow it to be done.
A+ mrpete222, I got to tip the hat to you after finding these videos and following just a few years this is the first ever that I have commented on. good job. I enjoy this more than 100 channels of cable garbage. being a tool & die guy for 19 years out of 30 in the plant. Tom from MI. I like the foundry stuff also .so cool I want to build a furnace to melt some aluminum.
Excellent, keep em coming. Rob
THANKS for watching
Excellent, I really enjoyed this.
Thanks
It looks like your original index pin was broken off when someone tried to unscrew the chuck relying on the pin to stop rotation.A very nice demonstration.
Another excellent tutorial video! I am sure you would have had a taper at the end of the original indexing pin to eliminate any "backlash" in the system when the pin was fully engaged, this could have been achieved by making the pin slightly larger diameter and turning down the front 3/16" to give easier register.
Thanks again. I just buy a Cincinnati dividing head like that one. That part is missing, not only the rack but all the group. I will now have a fun job do. Make one...
a fantastic tutorial series of videos mr pete
THANKS for watching
i watch all your videos mr pete
The original pin had a radius on it, do you guess that the radius self centered in the hole, so the rotation was the same each time?
The straight pin will have a little play in the hole, so to keep the position from hole to hole rotation the same you could always rotate the plate against the side of the pin, or is this over kill.
Thank you for the detail and well explained videos I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to make the,
HH
THANKS for watching
I believe green lock-tite is the appropriate one to use for that pin
Good show Lyle ----- thanks
THANKS for watching
Hi mrpete,
Great videos. You also could have cut a rack on your Rhodes shaper for fun. Also one little point on the index pin, the ones I've seen on my dividing head and spin indexer are tapered on the end. Of course it may not matter much if the fit is close enough and you could always change it since you loctited it in.
THANKS for watching
Thank you for the informative video.
Question, it seems the drill bit is quite undersized for the plate hole, won't the add significantly to error?
I know it must have been mentioned and it i bet was fun to make and you did of course a superb job as usual but could you not have just faced and drilled the old one for the drill bit pin?... I am sure i answered my own question but the lesson was to make a rack and pinion demonstration I imagine....again i enjoyed your presentation and again learned something new.......Thanks and cheers.
+Chuck Itall Thanks for watching
great job man! thanks for sharing the video, I really enjoyed watching it, I just want to mention one thing! letting that click jump itself is not so good idea, it looks to me just like a little hammer hitting that indexing wheel every time. the power of the spring can make marks on the indexing wheel after sometime, and it can also affect the gear that you made or the pinion that is intact with it, and maybe the pin that you made can come out after sometime. so I think it is better to hold the click handle until the lock pin is in place. I think that´s the best for the safety of the gears, indexing wheel and the indexing pin also. I am not a professional machinist but I just want to mention this. I love your videos and again thanks for sharing them with us, and keep doing the great job!!!
+Elhasane Elhafidy THANK you very much.
nice, thanks for posting
An other good series. I hope some of your students kept in contact with you through the years. Because you defiantly are a wonderful teacher!
THANKS for watching--some do
you are a wonderful teacher and I like the what is it series as well!
Another great series of videos! I took copious notes & stuck them in my Boston Gear catalog. Comment: I can see the chatter improves as you go down on the rack and there is more support/rigidity to your setup. Thanks for the inspiration to do this at home!
+bentontool ; I would think if the rack were to be used in constant motion on a tool of some sort, a more accurate ( stiffer ) setup and possibly a rough cut followed by a shallow finish cut, in a climb milling direction for a smoother finish on the teeth... might be an improvement.
Im a watchmaker so i might be a bit pendantic the biggest lathes we use are schaublin 102s haha, but drill bits are usually a few 100ths smaller
Another great pair of instructional videos. I'm still trying to figure out if the length of the tool hanging out is relivant. As long as the profile of the tool is correct, the circular cutter's diameter was determined by the number of cutters (in my humble opinion).
THANKS for watching
I don't have very much experience with dividing heads I have only used two I think one was a Harding that I used one time it was not mine it was my brother-in-law's and I have my Chinese one that it was all that I could afford at the time and both of them for direct indexing that pin has a between one and two degree taper on it. It's not a straight pin! It actually gets kind of stuck in that hole where it takes a little bit of a pull to get it out. I noticed it on the Hardinge as well
i like it keep up a good jobb
Also wonder if that radius on the original pin, and the slight chamfer of the holes on the plate allowed it to really self center better than a straight sided pin?
I also thought so.... with that radius it will take out the slack between the pin and the holes and it will be more accurate.
it probabli was a taper also. so is mine... to self center and to remove the slack.
it does! that's a critical factor when doing direct dividing.
Peter Owens I would agree and might explain the strength of the spring.
rrangana11
I totally agree with this, as the pin clips within the hole, this chamfer makes it fit exactly at the same relative position from the center of the timing wheel hole. Tightening the nut on the side should only prevent it from getting out. mrpete222 should have turned the whole piece and then hardened it for better precision. Anyway, there should be a rough 1/200" backlash with the piece made here.
Hi Mr. Pete, I was wondering about compounding errors by resetting the z axis to 0 after every move, wouldn't it be more accurate to just keep adding the .131 each time? I understand the reduction of errors in your method. Just wondering.
I'm sure it does. But easier this way. only a few teeth
Great video, gear cutting can be a lot of fun. It's amazing the precision we can accomplish if we pay attention to details. One suggestion I have is that when you make vertical movements with the knee, don't reset to zero each time. Instead, write down a list of way points. This eliminates accumulated error. Actually, the same goes when even using a DRO. For instance, rather then moving 0.500" then reset and move another 0.500", start at 0.500, then 1.000, then 1.500 and so on. I'm I making sense?
Thanks
You milled .012" off the round stock and then used the full calculated depth of tooth. When making a rack do you always start from a flat surface on round stock and does this in anyway effect the depth of tooth?
What is causing the work to get magnetized? Iron pieces rubbing instead of cutting?
It seems as though the original pin had a radius on it's base so that it could hold the center of the position. Is there any "play" in the new pin when it's engaged?
THANKS for watching---no
Impressive if that Loctite holds up to the impulse of the spring snapping the pin into the hole.
CLICK!
Lots of impulse there.
Mr. Pete. How about drilling a small dimple on the top of the rack where the thumb screw engages the shaft in the retracted position?
THANKS for watching--good idea
I see that you came across one of those elusive unexplained oil holes. Usually some one quickly stamps the table or what not with the word oil after accidently drilling into the table or such.
so nice
I wonder if those oil holes go internally somehow and oil the worm?
THANKS for watching--maybe
Might the oil holes on top just be input for the oil, and you fill it untill the oil starts coming out from the side oiling hole (next to the worm gear disengage'ing levers)?
THANKS for watching ???
Hi mrpete, have a bit of a tricky question:
my bridgeport (J-head, vintage 1964) has metric dials on it. would i need to change the lead screws if i were to swap out the metric dials for imperial? someday it will be retrofitted with a DRO but that's a little off in the in future, for now the quick & dirty would be to swap the dials
Here's how to determine if the lead screws are english. On mine, one full turn of the crank is .200". That makes the screws 5 threads per inch. Use an indicator to determine if one tunn on yours i s moving the table .200. Also look under the table with a light. Using a ruler, count the threads in one inch. Should be 5 tpi if english.
pete
Drill stock can be used as bearing material
Hello. Couldn’t you have drilled and tapped that v-block to give yourself the support you suggested?
Yeah springs always do the 1000 yard bounce when they hit the floor
Yes
Great Video (as usual) and thanks.
Quick question (not related to this video). A while back you did a video on something which also included the use of a 'push' oiler which looked like a push grease gun.
I have looked back over dozens of your videos but couldn't find the one in question. Would you happen to know which one it was?
Thanks again
Rod
THANKS for watching-don't remember, mighht be someone elses video
i would move the pin up out of trouble except when in use
that or make a latch that holds the lever positively
Can I ask why you made the new rack, when you could maybe have just faced the old broken one, drilled it and lock tighted the drill into the original rack?
Don’t get me wrong, it was the most informative video I’ve ever seen & just totally riveting to watch.
I don't know if you would care to answer this question or not, but here goes. I have always been fascinated by machining of things and now that I'm retired I intend to learn. What brand name and or model would be a good lathe to have, to learn the old style machining? I've been looking around on line and see that there are tons of types and brand names. I see you're using a Cincinnati and since I live with in driving distance of Cincinnati, a Cincinnati may be more likely to be found around here. When I but tools I'm of the type to rather not buy a tool and turn around and have to repeat the process for an additional function. I really enjoyed your trip to Detroit, I lived in Chicago as a youth for a while and went there myself. Thanks
south bend, logan, atlas, clausing
THANKS for watching
hi Julian, i concur with mrpetes recommendation for brands on lathes. craigslist is a good place to start looking as you can come across deals locally you won't find in ebay, although ebay can also be a good place to get a good used lathe as well if you don't mind driving a distance to pick up your machine.
i would stay away from the chinese imports since they require a higher degree of skill in the set up since the quality of the machines leaves a lot to be desired. even experienced machinists have their share of problems with setting up on these machines and getting consistent results.
US and british manufacturers operate to much more exacting specs than do the hobbyist machine manufacturers of china and taiwan such as grizzly and jet. there will be some guys out there who disagree, who have had good luck with their machines. but these are the lucky guys who either got a good tuesday machine or overhauled it to make it work.
if you do decide to buy a cheapy you should consider throwing away the chuck and buying a good american made or german (Röhm or Forqhardt) chuck. same thing on the live center. another consideration would be to replace the spindle bearings with either timken, SKF or FAG brand bearings. the chinese ones are usually junk and often run out of round.
this can get to be quite a spendy little hobby and to be frank about it you would be best served buying a decent used domestic machine. the lathe i have is a clausing and my experience with it has been very good, they are very good machine, other guys doing these videos in youtube are working off of south bend lathes and you can see for yourself the quality of what they are turning out. it speaks for itself.
hope that helps you and happy machining!
mmikeyy27
good advise
😇
nice job but i would just drill hole in the broken part and insert a pin with force or with permanent loctite
Best video on this subject!
What DP do you use if your calculations come to 24.5 dp? 24.6 dp? Do you round up or down?
What you would then need to do is go back and measure that outside diameter again. Any deviation from a whole number is due to, or a reflection of, a measurement error or wear. The 'outside' diameter is used in the formula because the 'pitch' diameter can't be measured, and adding the constant '2' makes up the difference.
(...forgot to add) therefore that remainder will always be a small fraction, Unless the measurement is really off.
Haha you really do love your red loctite. Lovely job on the piece!
I'm trying to find a fly cutter like the one in the video and all I find are the kind used for surface milling or those adjustable boring head thingys which are very expensive. I don't have a lathe I could use to make one. Any suggestions?
THANKS FOR WATCHING--I've never seen them for sale. This one looks home made, but noy by me. Check ebay
mrpete222 I've been enjoying your videos for a while now. I've been setting up a mini mill I got from harbor freight to produce a prototype of some inventions I've had in mind for quite a while. It's a lot slower going than I expected. Lots and lots to learn! Sheesh.
Thank you for reminding me why I would want to cut a rack.
This may seem silly but started to watch this video thinking I would never need to cut a rack I'll just watch and learn 😁
At least until you reminded me of a project that I had forgotten about due to my thinking I would never find a suitable rack or have the equipment to cut a rack and now thanks to you I am going to build a good strong and correctly geared pillar drill as I can't find a new one that runs slow enough and with enough torque to use a hole saw or a large drill.
I am planning to use a motorcycle gearbox and a high and low speed belt pulley.
So thank you for your valuable education from myself and anyone else who didn't get to learn shop engineering at school due to the health and safety squad removing metal work from all public schools in northern Ireland 😭
And I would like to thank you for your videos on TH-cam.
you are changing lives for the better world wide. 👍 Keep it up 👍
👍👍
The factory shot pin looked tapered, no doubt to get a tight fit in the holes and provide precise indexing. The drill shank does not fit as snugly in the holes and therefore there is some lash in the indexing mechanism. I assume the outside holes could be used to hold the backplate fixed while you are unscrewing the chuck, the shot pin probably was broken as a result of someone using it to hold the backplate while they wrenched on the chuck.
"A hammer and chisel mechanic can break anything off."
Also the sell drill stock, and it’s affordable
Howdy do Tubalcain,
I've had some good luck with some cheap import involute gear cutters. You can get full sets for around $70-80, granted they're not the best in the world, but they do the job well enough. They go for about $10 individually, if you'd like I can post up the site I've purchased a couple from.
+Marc Banks Good to know-Thanks for watching
Great video -- at 5:30 it seems that you need to replace the belt on your drill press. Looks like it's about to come apart on you...
THANKS for watching. that little belt cost $25
If you had to cut a dovetail for a fixture and didnt have DT cutter /want to spend the $150 for one, could you use the same concept and shape a tool bit to cut it out the same as you did for the gear rack? Obviously multiple passes and size might matter.
THANKS for watching---yes
Thanks for the lesson Mr. Pete! If you were only going to make the repair (and not an educational video), I suppose you could have faced off the broken piece, drilled the hole, and inserted your pin. Correct?
yep
1:00 MrPete did you built your flycutter? or ..... gear cutter here? I did a search and didn't see any videos on you making one. Maybe I missed it.
No, I had it for many years
I have a K mfg dividing head. I can't seem to turn it 90 degree from it zero degrees.
I've tried to lose the two nuts but it seem to be stuck. any suggestion?
Thanks for watching. Are you sure there is not a lock someplace on the head? Otherwise, you may have to disassemble
thanks for your comment! and you we're right!
I have disassemble it, and set it up. thanks again. now for my next task!
My thought, not having that glue, drill the pin hole 0.001 under size utilizing a press fit.
How can ı buying this machine
Why were comments disabled on SHOP TIPS #193 ????
I liket
wouldn't it have been easier just to modify the old part? face it off and drill and tap for your new pin?
It"s OK How internal gears are cut?
+Pragadapaati Sreedhar how to calculate No:of teeth to cut on dividing head on varius Dia show the common fomula for all
+Pragadapaati Sreedhar ; probably with a shaper or similar type machine motion driving the tool.
At 7:50 you face off the end using a carbide insert, any reason for this over hss knowing that will be a semi interference cut as you reach the first gear tooth? Everything i know about machining is from you and Joe 🥧 on TH-cam!
No particular reason, I use both
@@mrpete222 good to know! I wasn't sure if it was because of the type of material you were cutting or just convenience thanks again! About to watch all your videos again to refresh my brain!
Why not just turn down the old one, drill the 9/64th hole and add the pin?
I use a horizontal machine (have vertical head) but still would not approach it this way...
Joe M Mams. ok.....is that it? sure, why leave a useful comment when you can offer criticism, claim superiority but fail to offer anything of substance.
way to be useless!
Very good. jh
THANKS for watching
The oil holes go to the spindle. I just checked the drawings I have from mine. I could send you digital copies of the drawings from the manual and the brochure if you'd like for the Cin. 10-14" dividing heads.
Rich Naples Thanks Rick.. I now have copies of the manual
If you drill a hole for the pin .. Wy not use the original part and drill a hole in that part.
You can also unscruw the top nut en lift the part so it is not aligned with a hole. This release the pressure of the spring and there is no need to tighten the top screw
I believe Mr. Pete was wanting to demonstrate how to cut a small rack. But I agree with your thought...
*****
i had the same problem on mine and just made a new pin, drilled the plug and brazed the new pin in place. if the part is hardened it can be drawn back by heating it up to orange and inserting it into ashes to cool slowly.. then you can drill it easily with a cobalt alloyed drill or even an HSS. re-hardening is just as easy: just reheat to orange and quench it in oil.. on small pieces like that, cracking isn't too much of a problem. cracks usually develop if the process is repeated too many times