From your video I now can see that the problem with my K1000 is a mirror stick up now and then.The shutter is working. But unsure at the correct speeds Thanks for sharing👍
your video is literally the only one on the internet that showed me that the focusing screen assembly can be removed without that much hassle lol I have two K1000 and I want to swap the screen from one to the other
@@RompingBronco since there was a jumpcut, were it just screws around the assemby holding it in place? what was leaving the assembly attached to the camera after releasing it? I'm guessing it is the wires that lead to the light meter needle is there any way I could remove the focusing screen whilist keeping the old light meter needle? or do I have to replace and re-solder the wires? I might send it to you if I can get the light meter of the beat up body to work easily I would just use that camera for my upcoming trip, and I would get it professionaly fixed after the trip
@@yurikz9 I'll record a video in a minute here detailing the process and get it posted either later tonight or early tomorrow just walking through the process, but you should be able to keep the old needle and electronics intact!
From my limited understanding of the K 1000, it kinda seems like the Volkswagen Beetle of film cameras in a way. These were produced for a long time, were known for their ease of use and reliability and if taken care of well, they just don't quit!
This answered a very important question for me and the answer was "no." No, I don't want to try and use my shade tree mechanic skills on my camera. Thank you for showing it like it is.
Wonderful! This is amazing. I'm going to buy a broken one of these. I want to be able to repair Pentax cameras, so this seems like a great practice vessel. Excited to discover your channel!
Hows it going so far? Dont expect for your first time to work magically tho! I've fixed several things before and not all of them turn out well. I made alot of mistakes and you'll soon too.
I have one of these that I bought in the late 70’s - my first professional SLR - and stopped using it several decades ago because the light meter stopped working after it was dropped accidentally - still used it for a while after but would really like it to be fixed. Watching this I think I’ll leave it to professional camera repairers though.
Hi, I have Fujica ST 705. The light meter is connected to the battery, I’ve swap a new battery too, so the electricity is fine. But when I half push the trigger, the light meter needle jumps to the bottom as if it is under exposed. It happens even when I’m in the widest aperture and longest shutter speed. Do you have any idea what would be the problem?
Hello, I have not spend a lot of time with Fujica cameras so I can't speak with any authority to that issue. More generally though if the camera is showing underexposure there could be either an issue with power supply, the light resistors could be bad or the different contacts (ie Aperture, Shutter Speed and ASA inputs) could be faulty. Even if it's a fresh battery the older cameras typically have failing electronics and corroded wires. I'll see what I can find and get back to you with specifics. Thanks for watching!
@@RompingBronco That's unfortunate.. It was working just fine the other day, and in a sudden it only shows underexposure. I hope there's a way to fix this issue. Thanks for responding! Much appreciated👋
i have the needl up when incering the battry and even moving the rings they don't move down, cabling and CDS test are ok, but i have 0 value when i check 2 resistores , what is the value if i need to change them Thank you
I have an Spotmatic SP too, it works well except the light meter, it only reads well at the bulb position, i can adjust the needle with the aperture ring, but when i change the speeds it goes down, any idea or sugestion? Thanks in advance.
To know if the light meter work do you have to exposed to sunlight or does it not matter I'm new to using this camera and I don't see the light meter moving it's in the middle.
If the needle is sitting in the middle that likely means the galvanometer (Needle Housing) is not receiving power which is unfortunately common. If putting a new battery in doesn't work then the battery compartment wire likely needs to be resoldered
@@RompingBronco Hello! Thank You for the reply. My light meter wont give me any readings whenever I try to use it. I checked for false contact underneath the camera but from what I can see its all there. It has a new battery, also the self timer is stuck at a 90 degree angle for some reason. I thought about getting it serviced but it seems that would cost more than the actual camera.
@@cesarc6044 That is very interesting, the self timer mechanism can occasionally get gummed up the gears are super tiny and all that. The light meter could be a result of a faulty circuit board or potentially one of the contacts being bad. In all honesty they aren't the most valuable camera so whatever price estimate you receive will probably be more than the camera is worth but that doesn't mean it's still not worth trying to fix. If you live in the US you can shoot me an email and I'll get you a repair estimate. Besides that I'll see what I can find to help you trouble shoot as much as possible!
What size screw driver did you use to unscrew the tiny screw on the bottom? My liter meter is frozen despite changing the battery and I’m wanting to see if my battery is corroded
I use a set of Japanese Industrial Screwdrivers but if you have a small phillips it should work just as well. Another easy way to test it is to very gently tug at the exposed wire, if it doesn't budge the contact is in place and if the wire is removed then that is obviously an issue.
Check the battery first. If it sits for months the battery will probably die on its own. Then, I will open up the bottom or put it on the shelf as a historical piece of my 67 year old life, as it was my 1st camera I ever used back in 1973.
It's hard to say exactly what could be causing that. In all likelihood a previous user could have tried to glue the skin back on and got glue stuck on the latch, it's fairly common on OM-1's but I can't think off the top of my head what may be causing that. Shoot me an email with more info and I'll see what I can do to help.
I'm kinda new to film cameras and my dumbass decided to dissemble and clean a Nikon auto from the mid 60's hopefully I can put it back together and get it working good again
@@RompingBronco it's the Nikkorex auto 35 SLR with a 48mm lense overall it's not too bad so far the hardest thing was taking the leather of the front to remove the lense and shutter mechanism
Bought two of these online from a shop claiming "full working order", both knackered. Don't know how to do repairs on cameras at all. Got my money back on both. Off back to digital, so much easier. Film is dead, deal with it.
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
From your video I now can see that the problem with my K1000 is a mirror stick up now and then.The shutter is working. But unsure at the correct speeds Thanks for sharing👍
your video is literally the only one on the internet that showed me that the focusing screen assembly can be removed without that much hassle lol
I have two K1000 and I want to swap the screen from one to the other
Happy to help! It's not terribly difficult if you know what to do but if you need any help or guidance feel free to reach out, best of luck!
@@RompingBronco since there was a jumpcut, were it just screws around the assemby holding it in place?
what was leaving the assembly attached to the camera after releasing it? I'm guessing it is the wires that lead to the light meter needle
is there any way I could remove the focusing screen whilist keeping the old light meter needle? or do I have to replace and re-solder the wires?
I might send it to you if I can get the light meter of the beat up body to work easily
I would just use that camera for my upcoming trip, and I would get it professionaly fixed after the trip
@@yurikz9 I'll record a video in a minute here detailing the process and get it posted either later tonight or early tomorrow just walking through the process, but you should be able to keep the old needle and electronics intact!
@@RompingBronco oh wow that's awesome!! thank you so so much!
From my limited understanding of the K 1000, it kinda seems like the Volkswagen Beetle of film cameras in a way. These were produced for a long time, were known for their ease of use and reliability and if taken care of well, they just don't quit!
This answered a very important question for me and the answer was "no." No, I don't want to try and use my shade tree mechanic skills on my camera. Thank you for showing it like it is.
Always happy to help hahaha
Wonderful! This is amazing. I'm going to buy a broken one of these. I want to be able to repair Pentax cameras, so this seems like a great practice vessel. Excited to discover your channel!
Hows it going so far? Dont expect for your first time to work magically tho! I've fixed several things before and not all of them turn out well. I made alot of mistakes and you'll soon too.
This is excellent, thank you! I just had my K 1000 serviced and I was wondering what it looked like on the inside.
Glad you enjoyed it! They are great cameras and real easy to get apart and easier to use. Thanks for watching!
@@RompingBronco do you have a fix for black fuzz in the viewfinder
I have one of these that I bought in the late 70’s - my first professional SLR - and stopped using it several decades ago because the light meter stopped working after it was dropped accidentally - still used it for a while after but would really like it to be fixed.
Watching this I think I’ll leave it to professional camera repairers though.
Feel free to shoot me an email, I'd be happy to help you get that fixed so you can continue to use it!
man this was the fastest winding at the end of 4th minute that I’ve seen)
Fastest wind in the west
Thanks for this. On my K1000 the little metal piece that flips up on the winding knob broke off. Can I still use the camera without it?
Luckily mine was professionally serviced before I bought it. It has turned out great beginner photos.
Hi, I have Fujica ST 705. The light meter is connected to the battery, I’ve swap a new battery too, so the electricity is fine. But when I half push the trigger, the light meter needle jumps to the bottom as if it is under exposed. It happens even when I’m in the widest aperture and longest shutter speed. Do you have any idea what would be the problem?
Hello, I have not spend a lot of time with Fujica cameras so I can't speak with any authority to that issue. More generally though if the camera is showing underexposure there could be either an issue with power supply, the light resistors could be bad or the different contacts (ie Aperture, Shutter Speed and ASA inputs) could be faulty. Even if it's a fresh battery the older cameras typically have failing electronics and corroded wires. I'll see what I can find and get back to you with specifics. Thanks for watching!
@@RompingBronco That's unfortunate.. It was working just fine the other day, and in a sudden it only shows underexposure. I hope there's a way to fix this issue. Thanks for responding! Much appreciated👋
i have the needl up when incering the battry and even moving the rings they don't move down, cabling and CDS test are ok, but i have 0 value when i check 2 resistores , what is the value if i need to change them
Thank you
I have an Spotmatic SP too, it works well except the light meter, it only reads well at the bulb position, i can adjust the needle with the aperture ring, but when i change the speeds it goes down, any idea or sugestion? Thanks in advance.
does it also work with other pentax models ? like pentax KM ?
You dont show how to open the top, its speeds right through it and i cant get the top off
To know if the light meter work do you have to exposed to sunlight or does it not matter I'm new to using this camera and I don't see the light meter moving it's in the middle.
If the needle is sitting in the middle that likely means the galvanometer (Needle Housing) is not receiving power which is unfortunately common. If putting a new battery in doesn't work then the battery compartment wire likely needs to be resoldered
Do you think you could do a video repair on the Mamiya 1000 DTL, if you ever get your hands on it I would really appreciate it.
I repaired a 500DTL not too long ago, didn't record the repair though, what kind of issue are you having with it?
@@RompingBronco Hello! Thank You for the reply. My light meter wont give me any readings whenever I try to use it. I checked for false contact underneath the camera but from what I can see its all there. It has a new battery, also the self timer is stuck at a 90 degree angle for some reason. I thought about getting it serviced but it seems that would cost more than the actual camera.
@@cesarc6044 That is very interesting, the self timer mechanism can occasionally get gummed up the gears are super tiny and all that. The light meter could be a result of a faulty circuit board or potentially one of the contacts being bad. In all honesty they aren't the most valuable camera so whatever price estimate you receive will probably be more than the camera is worth but that doesn't mean it's still not worth trying to fix. If you live in the US you can shoot me an email and I'll get you a repair estimate. Besides that I'll see what I can find to help you trouble shoot as much as possible!
What size screw driver did you use to unscrew the tiny screw on the bottom? My liter meter is frozen despite changing the battery and I’m wanting to see if my battery is corroded
I use a set of Japanese Industrial Screwdrivers but if you have a small phillips it should work just as well. Another easy way to test it is to very gently tug at the exposed wire, if it doesn't budge the contact is in place and if the wire is removed then that is obviously an issue.
Check the battery first. If it sits for months the battery will probably die on its own. Then, I will open up the bottom or put it on the shelf as a historical piece of my 67 year old life, as it was my 1st camera I ever used back in 1973.
I,have one of these, & the door release, won't open please help me
How to fix my pentax K1000 camera.
Thank you
It's hard to say exactly what could be causing that. In all likelihood a previous user could have tried to glue the skin back on and got glue stuck on the latch, it's fairly common on OM-1's but I can't think off the top of my head what may be causing that. Shoot me an email with more info and I'll see what I can do to help.
You are a god send
Just doing what I can! Thanks for watching
@@RompingBronco Thanks for still working on old cameras, HOPE THIS FIX WORKS !!!!!! Aae you or will still fix cameras. Thanks !!!!!!!
Hi! wich oil is right to use for the interior of this camera?
I'll make a video soon detailing the gear and tools I use and will link the oil there!
What battery type do you install
LR44 1.5 volt battery!
@RompingBronco Thanks mate Aussie
I'm kinda new to film cameras and my dumbass decided to dissemble and clean a Nikon auto from the mid 60's hopefully I can put it back together and get it working good again
Best of luck to you, if you have more information on the model/issue I can see if there's any help I can provide!
@@RompingBronco it's the Nikkorex auto 35 SLR with a 48mm lense overall it's not too bad so far the hardest thing was taking the leather of the front to remove the lense and shutter mechanism
No classically trained camera repair technician would ever work on a camera with all that part clutter in his bench !
Good thing I never claimed to be classically trained
Guess what the mould isn’t a positive thing…..
Bought two of these online from a shop claiming "full working order", both knackered. Don't know how to do repairs on cameras at all. Got my money back on both. Off back to digital, so much easier. Film is dead, deal with it.