Check the relays (I think 30 and 167?) and also the wiring from the ignition switch. I’ve also seen problems from bad earths. You may want to run a +be 12v feed shunt to temporarily see if it solves your issue.
Great video! I've just ran these tests after a breakdown and all checks out. I'm still not getting a spark though, cranking but no spark. I'm thinking pulse sensor on the distributor needs replacing. Is there anything else to check before I order one? 1991 Mk1 Golf GTI Cabriolet.
If the ignition amp checks out and all the voltages are right then it could well be your signal from the distributor. It’s the hall sensor within it that you need to order. Or alternatively look for an entire new / second hand / recon distributor.
Hi I have question, so was driving today, when the car felt it was in the wrong gear, was OK driving unto when driving slow I had the issue, once at traffic the car cut out, then it would start but cut out when going to move off. If left for 30 minutes or so, the car would run normally for 10 minutes, then the same issues would happen. The AA thinks it is the ignition module?
@@mick9419 there is an idle speed adjustment on the back of the throttle body facing the bulkhead. I’d check that the brake booster pipe isn’t brittle and leaking air first. Generally if the car runs, it won’t be the ignition amp as it tends to be pretty fatal. It could be the coil itself though.
The video was very helpful thanks.But unfortunately I still have a problem.I have replaced both the coil and the module but still the car doesn't start which led me to this video.I have done the tests from the video but when doing the test at the coil to register 5v my coil doesn't read that and both the module and coil is Brand New.Can you please help me out as to why the tests are not working and theres no spark? I'm kinda confused
It could be that there is a problem with the hall sendor module inside the body of the distributor so it isn’t sending out the pulse with each revolution. These are available fairly cheaply or swap to a known good distributor?
Hi there , watched your video, but i also have a problem. :( First test with 2 and 4 pin is ok . It shoves a value. But secon test with ignition coil and turning on is not showing anything. Third test is not showing 6v, and final test with both end of distributor is showing voltage. (So i have a problem in this domain) 50/50 . What is your sugestion ? To pursue unit or ingnition coli? Thanks -golf mk 2 -Ez1.6 petrol.
I had this the other day on a GTI and it turned out to be a problem with the negative (earthing) lead. I’m assuming you’re talking about pins 2 and 4? It could be a faulty ignition switch.
You ought to have battery voltage at 2, it earths via pin 4. So probes on pins 2 and 4 ought to register 12 volts. Our issue on the GTI was the earth lead wasn’t earthed, if that makes sense.
I’m getting low voltage at the 3 pin that goes to the hall sender. Wiring looks good but water did get to my fuse box at one point so I think it’s something there. Car cranks and gets fuel no spark. 12v at coil
It could be the hall sender; the trigger within the distributor it’s self. It could also be a missing / failed earth strap or a bad coil. Don’t discount HT leads either.
John Daly there ought to be 12v at the positive low tension terminal of the coil from the ignition switch. You could try jumping this with a shunt to the positive terminal of the battery.
This is all very well, however to replace the various components that the manuals and you say are faulty costs a fortune and you find yourself going around in circles, so I have devised a test to segregate and diagnose where the fault actually is and which unit is faulty.
@@pentagrammotorsport no it doesn't, the fault I have only occurs when the engine is hot, the engine cuts out and by the time you get to testing the system its working again; coil checks out OK Hall OK ecu OK. So you start again. and so on.
@@pentagrammotorsport I think you have hit the nail on the head, I notice the tachometer fall directly to zero when all this is going on, By the way the test that I have worked out is :- remove the middle contact from the distributor and put a spark plug on it, put a wire into the centre contact in the hall socket so you can earth the ecu, put the ignition on , as you earth the ecu you should get a heathy spark if not you have cut the possibilities down to a u/s coil, ecu or supply. Simple huh?
Where was the relay located? The ignition relays ought to be in the fusebox. What symptoms do you have? I'm guessing no ignition? Does the starter turn? This seems like a semi-useful link; vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=electrics_2%2Fstarter-ignition-relay
@@pentagrammotorsport it was located in my scuttle. i think its the same one i see in your video at the 3:10 mark. the starter still turns.cheers for getting back to me man. never saw that you had replied sorry for my late reply. will give the link a look thanks man.
hi, thanks for the video. I have a question because I don't know and cant find out why. In the video, after the first 12v test on the module plug, when you measured access the coil when you switched the ignition on. why does it register 5v then drop? what are you testing for there? you said you replaced it and registered fine with the spare module. im asking because my module does not read 5v -0v at all. I have replaced it with a new module and still does not read. All of the other tests in the video works except for that one, please help. the car starts and drives but it feels down on power and fuel consumption is very high. its a carburetor and its fine( been checked etc
alastair bennett The 5v dropping to zero, from what I can tell, is the coil taking on its charge. If any of the parts tested in this video are not working, the car will not start. Your poor economy and lack of power may be down to the ignition timing or it may be (more likely) the carburettor. This user; th-cam.com/channels/gML6wb3LitkO7QQs-37wOg.html has some fantastic videos covering the carburettor setup on these cars. Good luck! :-)
i swapped my ignition module for new one and it started first time drove it a day, next day it cuts out after driving it for 15 minutes even if left om my drive, it has nee coil and leads would it be the module again? What could cause it to fail.again?
It could be one of a few things. I’d be tempted to change the ignition switch. I’d also check earths. They are quite fragile when it comes to heat, that’s why they have the heat sync attached. Is it possible that the replacement unit is faulty too? If I had to guess, I’d say ignition switch or possibly Relay 30 or 167 if it’s an injected car.
@pentagrammotorsport Thanks for reply, its non injected it's pierburg 2e2 1.6 , checked all earth's they read good batt voltage and the new module wasn't faulty because as soon as I put it on the car fired up, a couple of days later its back to square one with no spark
@@Aza912 It may be that the new module has failed early but unlikely. I'd probably check the voltages at the pins but I had similar with my MK3 GTI and it turned out to be the ignition switch.
@pentagrammotorsport So I did a coil resistance check on the new coil and it's failed (but only just) on the secondary and primary windings, maybe I burnt the coil out
After 2 years of this video today was the day i needed it and it help me sort out my problem thank you very very much im definitely subscribing
Great to hear :-)
On my three pin connector I only get 6v not the full 12v and I’m stuck trying to figure it out. Your code has helped so much!
Check the relays (I think 30 and 167?) and also the wiring from the ignition switch. I’ve also seen problems from bad earths. You may want to run a +be 12v feed shunt to temporarily see if it solves your issue.
Great video! I've just ran these tests after a breakdown and all checks out. I'm still not getting a spark though, cranking but no spark. I'm thinking pulse sensor on the distributor needs replacing. Is there anything else to check before I order one? 1991 Mk1 Golf GTI Cabriolet.
If the ignition amp checks out and all the voltages are right then it could well be your signal from the distributor. It’s the hall sensor within it that you need to order. Or alternatively look for an entire new / second hand / recon distributor.
Hi I have question, so was driving today, when the car felt it was in the wrong gear, was OK driving unto when driving slow I had the issue, once at traffic the car cut out, then it would start but cut out when going to move off. If left for 30 minutes or so, the car would run normally for 10 minutes, then the same issues would happen. The AA thinks it is the ignition module?
What car is it? Mk1 Golf? Is it carburettor or fuel injected?
@Pentagram Motorsport yes mk1 golf gti
@Pentagram Motorsport he said it was because it was overheating the module, when left for a while it works ok
@@pentagrammotorsport fuel injection
@@mick9419 there is an idle speed adjustment on the back of the throttle body facing the bulkhead. I’d check that the brake booster pipe isn’t brittle and leaking air first.
Generally if the car runs, it won’t be the ignition amp as it tends to be pretty fatal. It could be the coil itself though.
The video was very helpful thanks.But unfortunately I still have a problem.I have replaced both the coil and the module but still the car doesn't start which led me to this video.I have done the tests from the video but when doing the test at the coil to register 5v my coil doesn't read that and both the module and coil is Brand New.Can you please help me out as to why the tests are not working and theres no spark? I'm kinda confused
It could be that there is a problem with the hall sendor module inside the body of the distributor so it isn’t sending out the pulse with each revolution. These are available fairly cheaply or swap to a known good distributor?
Hi there , watched your video, but i also have a problem. :( First test with 2 and 4 pin is ok . It shoves a value. But secon test with ignition coil and turning on is not showing anything. Third test is not showing 6v, and final test with both end of distributor is showing voltage. (So i have a problem in this domain) 50/50 . What is your sugestion ? To pursue unit or ingnition coli? Thanks -golf mk 2 -Ez1.6 petrol.
Hi ,just to tell update, i have changed both the coil and the unit, and now car is running again. Thanks for this video .
Hi im only getting 1 volt to the tci unit ? What should I do ?
I had this the other day on a GTI and it turned out to be a problem with the negative (earthing) lead. I’m assuming you’re talking about pins 2 and 4? It could be a faulty ignition switch.
@@pentagrammotorsport thanks for the reply I seem to get voltage to 2 but thing to 4 I test across to the battery is 4 earth?
You ought to have battery voltage at 2, it earths via pin 4. So probes on pins 2 and 4 ought to register 12 volts. Our issue on the GTI was the earth lead wasn’t earthed, if that makes sense.
I’m getting low voltage at the 3 pin that goes to the hall sender. Wiring looks good but water did get to my fuse box at one point so I think it’s something there. Car cranks and gets fuel no spark. 12v at coil
It could be the hall sender; the trigger within the distributor it’s self. It could also be a missing / failed earth strap or a bad coil. Don’t discount HT leads either.
Hey, what is the engine code ( gu or ex ?) And the year of your cab. I have some problems whitch mine so I would like to know if we have the same car
This was a 1984 EX engined car but they’re all very similar.
Amazing thank you....
Did you get round to part 2??👍
Thank you, I've not made part 2 yet but will be making and uploading more Mk1 Golf videos in the next couple of weeks.
My car is starting up but not switching off when I turn the key to off position
I suspect it’s to do with the ignition switch itself.
So was it the module??
It’s an ignition amplifier.
Hi I did the test I am getting 12v on the coil
Hi. Thanks for the video. Does the ignition amplifier supply power to the coil?
I have no 12v on the low volts side of the coil.
John Daly there ought to be 12v at the positive low tension terminal of the coil from the ignition switch. You could try jumping this with a shunt to the positive terminal of the battery.
@@pentagrammotorsport thanks. Will try and post results.
This is all very well, however to replace the various components that the manuals and you say are faulty costs a fortune and you find yourself going around in circles, so I have devised a test to segregate and diagnose where the fault actually is and which unit is faulty.
Not sure I follow you. Follow the steps in the manual and it will definitively point to just one part at fault.
@@pentagrammotorsport no it doesn't, the fault I have only occurs when the engine is hot, the engine cuts out and by the time you get to testing the system its working again; coil checks out OK Hall OK ecu OK. So you start again. and so on.
@@RichardForster-gu1ww Check the fuse board for any hair-line fractures. I've seen that behaviour before and it was the fuse board.
@@pentagrammotorsport I think you have hit the nail on the head, I notice the tachometer fall directly to zero when all this is going on, By the way the test that I have worked out is :- remove the middle contact from the distributor and put a spark plug on it, put a wire into the centre contact in the hall socket so you can earth the ecu, put the ignition on , as you earth the ecu you should get a heathy spark if not you have cut the possibilities down to a u/s coil, ecu or supply. Simple huh?
read that not as a contact but the central connector of the distributor cap.
Hi. What code engine?
This will be for all engines with solid state ignition so will include DX, EG, EW, etc...
Hey man I was chasing wires and opened up some tape and that wee yellow relay fell off and I don’t know how it was wired before. How is yours wired ?
Where was the relay located? The ignition relays ought to be in the fusebox. What symptoms do you have? I'm guessing no ignition? Does the starter turn? This seems like a semi-useful link; vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=electrics_2%2Fstarter-ignition-relay
@@pentagrammotorsport it was located in my scuttle. i think its the same one i see in your video at the 3:10 mark. the starter still turns.cheers for getting back to me man. never saw that you had replied sorry for my late reply. will give the link a look thanks man.
hi, thanks for the video. I have a question because I don't know and cant find out why. In the video, after the first 12v test on the module plug, when you measured access the coil when you switched the ignition on. why does it register 5v then drop? what are you testing for there? you said you replaced it and registered fine with the spare module. im asking because my module does not read 5v -0v at all. I have replaced it with a new module and still does not read. All of the other tests in the video works except for that one, please help. the car starts and drives but it feels down on power and fuel consumption is very high. its a carburetor and its fine( been checked etc
alastair bennett The 5v dropping to zero, from what I can tell, is the coil taking on its charge. If any of the parts tested in this video are not working, the car will not start.
Your poor economy and lack of power may be down to the ignition timing or it may be (more likely) the carburettor.
This user; th-cam.com/channels/gML6wb3LitkO7QQs-37wOg.html has some fantastic videos covering the carburettor setup on these cars.
Good luck! :-)
I just cant
i swapped my ignition module for new one and it started first time drove it a day, next day it cuts out after driving it for 15 minutes even if left om my drive, it has nee coil and leads would it be the module again? What could cause it to fail.again?
It could be one of a few things. I’d be tempted to change the ignition switch. I’d also check earths. They are quite fragile when it comes to heat, that’s why they have the heat sync attached. Is it possible that the replacement unit is faulty too?
If I had to guess, I’d say ignition switch or possibly Relay 30 or 167 if it’s an injected car.
@pentagrammotorsport Thanks for reply, its non injected it's pierburg 2e2 1.6 , checked all earth's they read good batt voltage and the new module wasn't faulty because as soon as I put it on the car fired up, a couple of days later its back to square one with no spark
@@Aza912 It may be that the new module has failed early but unlikely. I'd probably check the voltages at the pins but I had similar with my MK3 GTI and it turned out to be the ignition switch.
@pentagrammotorsport So I did a coil resistance check on the new coil and it's failed (but only just) on the secondary and primary windings, maybe I burnt the coil out