I'm trying to understand how all of the components work together, because I'm wanting to incorporate this circuit into a board that I'm building. Also I'm wanting to explain this circuit for a school project. Is there any way you could make a video about how the current travels and how the components interact with one another?
I buy 2 of them . They work fine . They don't have problem . Only the problem that this unit connect and desconnect depends of the lamp ohm . So you need to modify your lamp
I like they relay type if I use electronic on something, but those might work fine too, wouldn't hear it either way if it's on a bike or anything louder than the inside of a vehicle, but the thermal ones usually don't get enough loud from those bulbs unless you have one somewhere that's atleast several watts still
I bought the version of this flasher without blink adjustment. I does not work on hazard with LEDs, incandescents or combination thereof. Does not work on turn signal with even one LED and blinks very slowly with two incandescents. (The solution seems to involve a 2 prong flasher with an added ground wire - such as the CEC EF32RL.)
@@CarlRecktenwaldJr I didn't indicate the vehicle is a 1978 F250. I should have just added about 6 ohms to left and right sides. (An 1157 bulb added would have worked ... flashing where no-one could see it)..
Trouble with electronic 2-wire units is the flash cycle starts with the 'off' condition. Old mechanicals start the cycle with the 'on' condition. This half second delay can be life and death on a bike. It's much easier to design electronically for 3-wire units to begin the cycle with the 'on' condition than 2-wire though I don't know if they all perform like this. Best to check out the units before slotting in if this is important to you. With a modicum of gumption It's easy enough wiring in a 3-wire -- some with load/speed adjusters have bulb failure fast-flash alert even with LEDs.
Carl. But thanks to you for taking the time to make the vid. Your tip of adding the load resistor in parallel is astute, could save people much frustration. It may be necessary with some LED bulbs but not with others, depending upon the arrangement of the LEDs -- how many are in series in each leg raising the conduction voltage too high for the flasher unit.
Hi mate, thanks for the video. I have a motorcycle with regular bulds (not led). It has a 2 prong old style flasher (not electronic) but I found out that when you activate the turn signals it delays almost a second until they start to flash because it is the time to heat the bimetallic contact. I wan't to eliminate this delay. Do you have the same delay with this type of electronic flasher or when you connect the battery it flashed inmediately? Thanks in advance
@@CarlRecktenwaldJr thanks for your reply... I am not much knowledgeable person as per electronics .. will IRF530 mosfet work with in this circuit?... I'll be so thankful for your help
Hi could u help me. I adjusted the potentiometer at lowest but the flashing is still too fast for me. How to make it slower? Do i need to change potentiometer? Bty thank you for your video.
@@CarlRecktenwaldJrI don't know what value this one is so don't know what to shoot for. Also, there are so many different types and sizes and this one is very small, like 1/4" in diameter with 3 legs (solder points). I don't know where to start in looking for one. I ordered a 200pc set of capacitors of multiple values from Amazon last night. Think I may try that first, as the capacitor that's on my flasher has it's value written on the side @ 100uf 25v. Thinking of trying a 200uf 25v and see what happens. If that doesn't work, how would I go about looking for a pot? I have a very similar flasher to the one you're working with in this video, but with only one 100uf cap. Do they go by diameter for physical size? Also, does 10k flash slower than 5k? Sorry for the newbie questions but I don't work with this stuff often.
Never mind, I just ordered a pot kit from Amazon with multiple values from 5k to 500k and will test each to see what works for me. They are larger than what is on the flasher now but I'm using a work box and have plenty of room to locate the pot elsewhere and run wires to the flasher board. Thanks again for your input.
Well both the caps and pots arrived today and I tried both a 220uf cap and a 10k pot and both gave me similar results, a longer blinking cycle. But, the problem is, they're not turning the LEDs on any longer, only making a longer pause between each power-up cycle. So, I think I will use the flasher to power a 12v relay instead and then power the LEDs through the normally closed circuit of the relay. This will reverse the power/pause cycle and power the LEDs on the pause of the flasher instead of the power.
Thanks for posting this information. I used it on a project for my wife and she loved it!
+oozamalak mi Your welcome. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks man, always wondered about those relays
You helped me a lot. Thank you so much.
I'm trying to understand how all of the components work together, because I'm wanting to incorporate this circuit into a board that I'm building. Also I'm wanting to explain this circuit for a school project. Is there any way you could make a video about how the current travels and how the components interact with one another?
Thanks a lot brother! Just wht i wanted.
Lucky Luciano.
thanx a lot man !!!! i relleay appreciate that !!
I buy 2 of them . They work fine . They don't have problem . Only the problem that this unit connect and desconnect depends of the lamp ohm . So you need to modify your lamp
Ok. Thanks for the update
I like they relay type if I use electronic on something, but those might work fine too, wouldn't hear it either way if it's on a bike or anything louder than the inside of a vehicle, but the thermal ones usually don't get enough loud from those bulbs unless you have one somewhere that's atleast several watts still
I do miss the clicking noise from the old school flasher units even when inside of a car.
I bought the version of this flasher without blink adjustment. I does not work on hazard with LEDs, incandescents or combination thereof. Does not work on turn signal with even one LED and blinks very slowly with two incandescents. (The solution seems to involve a 2 prong flasher with an added ground wire - such as the CEC EF32RL.)
Hmm. Ok. Did you try and leave the hazards on to have the ecm learn the new flash rate?
@@CarlRecktenwaldJr I didn't indicate the vehicle is a 1978 F250. I should have just added about 6 ohms to left and right sides. (An 1157 bulb added would have worked ... flashing where no-one could see it)..
Trouble with electronic 2-wire units is the flash cycle starts with the 'off' condition. Old mechanicals start the cycle with the 'on' condition. This half second delay can be life and death on a bike. It's much easier to design electronically for 3-wire units to begin the cycle with the 'on' condition than 2-wire though I don't know if they all perform like this. Best to check out the units before slotting in if this is important to you. With a modicum of gumption It's easy enough wiring in a 3-wire -- some with load/speed adjusters have bulb failure fast-flash alert even with LEDs.
Did not know that. Thanks for sharing.
Carl. But thanks to you for taking the time to make the vid. Your tip of adding the load resistor in parallel is astute, could save people much frustration. It may be necessary with some LED bulbs but not with others, depending upon the arrangement of the LEDs -- how many are in series in each leg raising the conduction voltage too high for the flasher unit.
The reason that it has such a big casing, is that this, inproves (Increases) the volume, of the sound, of the "Clicking".
Ah. That makes sense
It has no relay , so there's no clicking sound
Hi mate, thanks for the video. I have a motorcycle with regular bulds (not led). It has a 2 prong old style flasher (not electronic) but I found out that when you activate the turn signals it delays almost a second until they start to flash because it is the time to heat the bimetallic contact. I wan't to eliminate this delay. Do you have the same delay with this type of electronic flasher or when you connect the battery it flashed inmediately?
Thanks in advance
I don’t notice any delay.
@@CarlRecktenwaldJr Thank you
There nothing in the link for circuit diagram... which power transistor is used in this flasher ?
I just had to merge the site to the new google site. It is just a generic n channel mosfet. No specific model number was on it.
@@CarlRecktenwaldJr thanks for your reply... I am not much knowledgeable person as per electronics .. will IRF530 mosfet work with in this circuit?... I'll be so thankful for your help
Yes that should be fine.
@@CarlRecktenwaldJr thanks... Can you please direct me to your new location of circuit diagram of this flasher you made ....
Try here:
drive.google.com/file/d/1VsUGSnSNfeGerjGgdgLEipZW7FNoJZG1/view?usp=drivesdk
Can you make circuit clearer for understanding, with exact values of components?
They are so cheap why not just buy one?
u shoul adjust it veeeerrry slowly, and it has a very tiny visible working range
High quality content
Hi could u help me. I adjusted the potentiometer at lowest but the flashing is still too fast for me.
How to make it slower? Do i need to change potentiometer?
Bty thank you for your video.
Yes. If you change the pot that would give you more adjustable.
Thank you. What is a component driving a flashing light?
Is it Mosfet?
Yes. Could also use a transistor.
hello carl, that part labeled 2A is mmbt3906 p chanel mosfet! non smd version 2N3906
+justsomeguy ok awesome thanks
I want my turn signals to light up for 1 full second but even with the pot turned all the way, I cant get this flash rate. Can I mod this somehow?
You could change the pot out to a different value.
@@CarlRecktenwaldJrI don't know what value this one is so don't know what to shoot for. Also, there are so many different types and sizes and this one is very small, like 1/4" in diameter with 3 legs (solder points). I don't know where to start in looking for one. I ordered a 200pc set of capacitors of multiple values from Amazon last night. Think I may try that first, as the capacitor that's on my flasher has it's value written on the side @ 100uf 25v. Thinking of trying a 200uf 25v and see what happens. If that doesn't work, how would I go about looking for a pot? I have a very similar flasher to the one you're working with in this video, but with only one 100uf cap. Do they go by diameter for physical size? Also, does 10k flash slower than 5k? Sorry for the newbie questions but I don't work with this stuff often.
Never mind, I just ordered a pot kit from Amazon with multiple values from 5k to 500k and will test each to see what works for me. They are larger than what is on the flasher now but I'm using a work box and have plenty of room to locate the pot elsewhere and run wires to the flasher board. Thanks again for your input.
Ah. Good idea. Buying a various selection.
Well both the caps and pots arrived today and I tried both a 220uf cap and a 10k pot and both gave me similar results, a longer blinking cycle. But, the problem is, they're not turning the LEDs on any longer, only making a longer pause between each power-up cycle. So, I think I will use the flasher to power a 12v relay instead and then power the LEDs through the normally closed circuit of the relay. This will reverse the power/pause cycle and power the LEDs on the pause of the flasher instead of the power.
Will this or can it be modified to run on 6v systems ?
I don’t see why not. Might just blink a little slower because of the reduced voltage.
what is 2A and 502
+youraj badgujar 2A is a 2n3906 which is an npn transistor. Is 502 referring to the pot? I can't recall.
1k resistor👍
Pffft I see it has no clicking sound....
Ha. Nope.
google sites has no schematics
drive.google.com/file/d/1VsUGSnSNfeGerjGgdgLEipZW7FNoJZG1/view?usp=drivesdk