I saw in one of your videos that you said that brass tube was hard to find. You can get it real cheap from hobby remote control stores, they use it for shafts and thing. Got a yard for about $5.
I am interested in your book of facts that you showed us. What would you need for a copy of that note book NOBOX7 ???? Thanks fella. Also, you could call this burner a upside-down whistle oil burner. Cause it looks just like one for sure.
OK, so it gets the burner red hot. Doesn't look like a very efficient flame. What is the oil consumption? How 'hot' does it get in the flame...i.e. what will it actually do? Seems like an overly complex experiment. Thanks for sharing.
Would it not be better to use something like firebrick in place of the steel that the burner is blowing against? Though the firebrick I have is rated at 2460*F, it's the surface that I use for all of my Oxy Acetylene cutting/welding, which is way over 2460. And it insulates incredibly well. My next foundry, which is going to use a waste oil + O2 (not just air, medical grade pure O2) will have this firebrick as it's primary insulation, and I anticipate completion this weekend. So I'll definitely have a better idea at that point just how well the bricks will hold up to a waste oil burner at that time
lol - I wish I could say. I've got a good dozen projects going all at once, have been waiting for the rest of the firebrick to come back in stock to get the rest that I need, and then had all sorts of stuff go to hell in my personal life that stole much of my time. This week I have a good chunk of free time though so I hope to finish this then. On paper I expect it should work out decent though
Its instantly visible when the flame stabilizes because it gets larger, and louder, as well as the dripping slows down. I am guessing that one piece serves 3 purposes? [1, supporting the nozzle tip, 2, deflecting the air in a circular cross flow and 3, reducing back-flash]
Guys i threw this together at midnight on a work to for a friend , yes yes yes , the editing is horrible, got to the end of the video for whats worth looking at
That flame needs be burning on the outside end of the burner. If the flame is burning inside the Beginning of the burner you are using the wrong configuration. In my video, the flame was burning 100% on the outside of the burner chamber end. The fuel you were using was not atomized to be carried to the end of the burner. It's th-cam.com/video/2BGm9ONIq-Y/w-d-xo.html
I saw in one of your videos that you said that brass tube was hard to find. You can get it real cheap from hobby remote control stores, they use it for shafts and thing. Got a yard for about $5.
Nice book at the beginning off the video would love to have a closer look at it
I love the way you can just see the heat distribution on the outside!
(also, looks like your flame is pulsing on the rear!)
yep its a puls jet on rich fuel settings , lean burns do not buffet
I am interested in your book of facts that you showed us. What would you need for a copy of that note book NOBOX7 ???? Thanks fella. Also, you could call this burner a upside-down whistle oil burner. Cause it looks just like one for sure.
OK, so it gets the burner red hot. Doesn't look like a very efficient flame. What is the oil consumption? How 'hot' does it get in the flame...i.e. what will it actually do? Seems like an overly complex experiment. Thanks for sharing.
Hello, have you tried in a forge to melt aluminum? very good. Thank you
What size is the oraface ?
What size is the little capillary tube?
How many litres oil in a hour?
How much air and on what pressure you need? for example oil/air flow ratio?
Would it not be better to use something like firebrick in place of the steel that the burner is blowing against? Though the firebrick I have is rated at 2460*F, it's the surface that I use for all of my Oxy Acetylene cutting/welding, which is way over 2460. And it insulates incredibly well. My next foundry, which is going to use a waste oil + O2 (not just air, medical grade pure O2) will have this firebrick as it's primary insulation, and I anticipate completion this weekend. So I'll definitely have a better idea at that point just how well the bricks will hold up to a waste oil burner at that time
so, how did it work out for you....
lol - I wish I could say. I've got a good dozen projects going all at once, have been waiting for the rest of the firebrick to come back in stock to get the rest that I need, and then had all sorts of stuff go to hell in my personal life that stole much of my time. This week I have a good chunk of free time though so I hope to finish this then. On paper I expect it should work out decent though
Great job, what pressure on the compressor did you set
Its instantly visible when the flame stabilizes because it gets larger, and louder, as well as the dripping slows down.
I am guessing that one piece serves 3 purposes? [1, supporting the nozzle tip, 2, deflecting the air in a circular cross flow and 3, reducing back-flash]
I regret leaving that nozzle so close to the intake .
Guys i threw this together at midnight on a work to for a friend , yes yes yes , the editing is horrible, got to the end of the video for whats worth looking at
its great! thanks for all your effort!i
Good day how can I contact you ?
Burns very cleanly, would make a good burner for a ceramics kiln?
yes
Neato, and can it be lined with a high temperature cement to increase its lifespan? Perhaps magnesium oxide with a water glass binder?
indeed . i sell these on my website if you dont wanna build one
That flame needs be burning on the outside end of the burner. If the flame is burning inside the Beginning of the burner you are using the wrong configuration. In my video, the flame was burning 100% on the outside of the burner chamber end. The fuel you were using was not atomized to be carried to the end of the burner. It's th-cam.com/video/2BGm9ONIq-Y/w-d-xo.html
HAHHAHAHAHA!! Sounds like a chipmunk is talking!
I think it would work better turned over. Put the belly on the bottom
Oil puddles can build up and foal out the unit that way
sweet