"Shiny!" Murasame L6 Blue Theme Katana
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Another returned non-Bainite L6 to look at, this one unfortunately with some serious patches of corrosion despite still having at least some of the original packing oil on it. Stay tuned for a video on corrosion prevention and mitigation for reproduction swords.
Link to the sword's Amazon page:
www.amazon.com...
Underrated channel
Thanks!
Great video, unfortunately L6 is very prone to corrosion. As far durability, they are very strong, you don't need bainite with it,and they'll be just fine. I work with steel everyday, the most they use bainite heat treatment is drive shafts for vehicles.
That's good to know. Hardness and durability so far on my two samples have been in acceptable ranges. I just got in a new set of hardness test files, so I'll post my results soon. So... Am I pronouncing bainite right? (Buy-night?) First time I saw it was related to Japanese swords so I automatically used a Japanese pronunciation (Buy-Nee-Tay).
@Michael Rizzo yeah you are pronouncing it right, in fact it's not even a japanese word it was given the name by its creator here in the states.
Which type of steel do you recommend? Also what kit do you prefer for blade upkeep to My knowledge is when it comes to these sword cleaning kits it's more of a gimmick sure you want to upkeep the blade but from my findings going back to the samurai such kits were never used. Plus swords that were hundreds of years old never showed any signs of oil within the scabbards.
I've had good luck with everything from 1055/1060 up to 1095/T10. I'd suggest a monosteel for a durable cutter, pattern welded and laminated steel for the aesthetics. Spring steels are especially tough, but not pretty. I haven't used traditional cleaning kits in a long time, and when I was using Choji oil I was always fighting corrosion. I've had much better results with modern gun oils, and most often use CLP for all my blades. No need to leave the blade "wet" with oil, just wipe it down and leave a protective film. Even resists some limited contact with my bare hands in training.
When he said sword condom I could just see the thought-bubble outlaw Samurai I'm talking about you lol 🤣🤣
Michael Rizzo doesn't abuse swords, Matthew Jensen abuses swords!
Just sayin'
Would using WD40 be great at removing corrosion marks?
Any oil is helpful. The problem with WD40 is it eventually dries into a sticky film, as it's not really oil, so wipe it all off and re-coat with something else. My go-to protectant has been CLP. Mild abrasives such as steel wool or 3-M pads are good, but I didn't want to risk wrecking the original polish, so I kept it to fine steel wool applied cautiously. Same reason I didn't use metal polishes such as Mother's or Blue Magic, which I otherwise use to polish blades.
Howard Clark makes the best L6 Katana .Which I am the proud owner of one ..
I have my eye on a Hanwei Howard Clark.
Very informative, I respect your knowledge when it comes to these swords.
Hell yeah your tests are valid. This is a quite pretty blade, especially for the price. I'm impressed with it.
Great video and thank you for sharing again!
Interested about L6 being more prone to corrosion over other steels like t10, maybe something scientific with the mixture of elements...your gonna have alot of murasame around with this deal my friend....
I'm going to have to come up with a suitable plan for re-homing some of these orphans or I'll have to borrow a dragon to make myself an unfriendly throne.
The blue sword it's really beautiful 😶 i love it
Would a Bohi help with the weight/balance? That Amazon page has a version of "Shiny" that has a Bohi.
Probably yes! Bohi tend to shave about 2oz or more off a blade. I tend to prefer them balance-wise.
Can anyone please explain the different between L6 and T10 steel, thank you.
I think you'd be best served entering "L6 Steel vs T10" into your favorite search engine. There's a lot of information and opinions on this subject.
Got this for under 200$ black Friday sale. Real nice
Looks like a katana fit for a samurai war lord
I have a few L6 and T10,comparatively speaking, L6 non bainite is stronger and more resistant. ( bay-a-nite) i think. As far as protecting the blade I stopped using choji oil long ago and now use Blue Magic metal polish. It leaves behind a light silicone coating that protects 10 times longer than oils. And its great for polishing also,lol.
The Blue Magic 400? I'll have to give it a try!
@@michaelrizzo5523 yeah,300,or 400
Be careful with metal polish all the time Byrd as it removes steel when it polishes
@@JoeSteel1 that is true,but the loss is beyond minute.
@@JoeSteel1 I use Mother's Mag pretty sparingly, because it definitely polishes away metal.
I guess my only question my first and only question would be. Why on heaven's Earth? Would you be getting a kitana from China? Katana is not a Chinese sword. It's a Japanese sort. Why are you buying katanas from china?
Because a traditional Nihonto costs as much as a car. I buy them to use hard so I don't damage my actual Japanese swords. It's also something the average (non-wealthy) martial artist can afford as a gateway into the arts. And Longquan and Dalian are quite good at making functional swords (if you know what to look for).
Thanks for your great videos! In terms of steel material what would be better/best for practice swords (unsharpened like Iaito) used for controlled sparring drills in e.g. Kenjutsu? (Blade contacts happen but not full force)
Check out the Weaponism channel. They are producing a functional steel sparring katana that they hope to have available soon on Amazon, but you can order direct. Otherwise through-hardened spring steel is probably your best best.
@@michaelrizzo5523 thanks very much! Will do!
That's a really pretty blade!
I've gotten most of the corrosion managed without wrecking the original finish.
Oil is still a liquid and will cause rust. Renaissance Wax is the best for carbon steel blades or just metal in general. Great stuff.
Hello Michael
Just loving your vids Mike!! I may have a remedy for that saya rub! Let me know if you want my 2 cents. It works for me anyhow lol!
The rub has improved a bit over time, possibly as it aired out/dried out, but I'd appreciate any advice, my friend!
@@michaelrizzo5523 first I will pit a light dusting of cornstarch on the blade and slide the blade gently in saya, pull blade out and find where powder is disturbed. I use a modified wooden meter stick that will slide down inside of saya. Apply padded 2 sided tape approx where the defect would be (on meter stick using the disturbed powder on blade as a guide) stick what ever grit u feel comfortable with of sand paper (120 works) to the padded tape, slide stick in. Just a few passes at a time as we know how malleable that wood is. I use cornstarch in case there is some moisture in the saya and don’t want bread dough in there lol. Also I use the padded 2 sided tape because it sticks much better and the padding helps with the sanding the contour of the saya. Man that was a lot of blabbing and I hope it made sense. Let me know if you are unsure about the tape I am talking about. It’s only about 1/16 inch thick and 3/4 inch wide.
@@aaronmatheson9730 The corn starch or other desiccant is a great idea! I'm now thinking of making a sword-blade-shaped tool to stick sandpaper to. Thanks!
Can you do an update on this video about the rust and possibly cutting? I’ve been looking at murasame katana’s and I really like them I’m considering buying a few
The rust didn't return, and the spot is barely noticeable now. A little character. I won't be cutting with this one as it's waiting for a forever home. Murasame has been consistently very conscientious about his quality.
Saya looks nice. I like the rattan around the koiguchi. There is something about that look that I really appreciate and the extra hand protection is a big plus.