I'm so glad to see you use a block of wood on your jack. I see so many lift the car with the metal jack causing a higher risk of damage to any undercoat. When I reach a point like this on my restoration, I can at least think back on your trials and say "That's Mini Ownership"
That's wear mine went as well Keith. I drilled a couple 10mm holes in the boot floor above those areas for future waxoiling. I'm sure your be happy in the end as it will give you a chance to paint your rear floor etc.. Will keep my eye out for you tomorrow..
Sorry to hear, at least your doing the job properly rather than what someone has done in the past, I was lucky with mine as it had only just been replaced when I bought it but didn’t get powder coated so have had to protect it as best as I can so it doesn’t start rusting
Hi I've had a problem with my aftermarket subframe had to grind off captive nuts as they didn't line up with camber bracket looks lime I might have to buy a set of adjustable camber bracket now grr keep up the good work keep on chasing that rust lol
I welded up a few of my minis sub frames and they lasted years and never got failed in a MOT. the sub frames in minis and 1100/1300s used to rot out in no time at all from new. do not waste £400+ but take off repair patch and derust area and get the best welder where you live and have him put an exact patch in the rust hole and then you paint and waxoyl it. do not throw money at simple problems because they seem hard.
Thanks, I agree, the subframe could have been repaired and it wasn't a case that it was hard to do, it's simply because repairing things like subframes are generally frowned upon. For a budget restoration on a cheap Mini, fair enough, but this car is quite rare, one of only maybe 30 built so there is no point cutting corners. Skimping £400 on a car that is probably worth c. £15k makes no sense. Anyone looking underneath when they come to buy a Mini and seeing a patched up subframe would surely bring into doubt the standard of repairs on the rest of the car.
@@classicminiworkshop hi, you are missing my point what quality metal are used in after market sub frames today and a new subframe added means the car is not as it left the factory. I am not talking about slap dash job of welding a surface plate over the rust with the welds left rough. I am talking about a carefully cut out piece of metal welded id and the weld ground down flush with the sub frame and painted so nobody would know there had been a repair exactly to the same standards as if you got a body shop to do a rust hole in a wing or door panel thats on show.
@@doloresmyatt9737 I get your point and agree when using an after-market subframe. They are rubbish, I've fitted a few in the past. The subframe I used was a British Motor Heritage subframe which is built to original specification using the tooling Rover used and with arguably better metal. A BMH subframe is twice the price of an aftermarket one but they are as good quality as the OE part.
Mine came off without any issues what so ever, I was very very surprised. Frustrating I know but a new subframe will transform the underside, not to mention having one that doesn’t flex too 👍🏻👍🏻 great video Keith
What a bugga hey! Not what you needed. But a positive i feel was finding the previous patch ups and general condition, whilst it's guna cost (never a good thing) least you know a new one will safe and secure hey.
Its a bit of a blessing in disguise if the bolts for the radius arm had come out easily you would of left the sunframe in and not noticed the terminal rust at least the heel doesn't need any welding but it's still a ball ache forking out for a new subframe
I've just finished rebuilding my rear sub and I've had similar issues. I genuinely reckon that the original 5/16 bolts are 1/4 too long and hence when they rust you end up with this scenario. I have had to helicoil in two new threads and I have replaced the bolts with shorter ones. The one you snapped that goes into the panel...... drill it out and helicol it. Not a nice job I grant you but it will beat replacing the panel with the captives in it.
I'm so glad to see you use a block of wood on your jack. I see so many lift the car with the metal jack causing a higher risk of damage to any undercoat. When I reach a point like this on my restoration, I can at least think back on your trials and say "That's Mini Ownership"
Feeling with you. The moment you feel it will snap.... and things get worse. Small jobs becomes big ones!
That's wear mine went as well Keith. I drilled a couple 10mm holes in the boot floor above those areas for future waxoiling. I'm sure your be happy in the end as it will give you a chance to paint your rear floor etc.. Will keep my eye out for you tomorrow..
Sorry to hear, at least your doing the job properly rather than what someone has done in the past, I was lucky with mine as it had only just been replaced when I bought it but didn’t get powder coated so have had to protect it as best as I can so it doesn’t start rusting
Hi I've had a problem with my aftermarket subframe had to grind off captive nuts as they didn't line up with camber bracket looks lime I might have to buy a set of adjustable camber bracket now grr keep up the good work keep on chasing that rust lol
I welded up a few of my minis sub frames and they lasted years and never got failed in a MOT. the sub frames in minis and 1100/1300s used to rot out in no time at all from new. do not waste £400+ but take off repair patch and derust area and get the best welder where you live and have him put an exact patch in the rust hole and then you paint and waxoyl it. do not throw money at simple problems because they seem hard.
Thanks, I agree, the subframe could have been repaired and it wasn't a case that it was hard to do, it's simply because repairing things like subframes are generally frowned upon. For a budget restoration on a cheap Mini, fair enough, but this car is quite rare, one of only maybe 30 built so there is no point cutting corners. Skimping £400 on a car that is probably worth c. £15k makes no sense. Anyone looking underneath when they come to buy a Mini and seeing a patched up subframe would surely bring into doubt the standard of repairs on the rest of the car.
@@classicminiworkshop hi, you are missing my point what quality metal are used in after market sub frames today and a new subframe added means the car is not as it left the factory. I am not talking about slap dash job of welding a surface plate over the rust with the welds left rough. I am talking about a carefully cut out piece of metal welded id and the weld ground down flush with the sub frame and painted so nobody would know there had been a repair exactly to the same standards as if you got a body shop to do a rust hole in a wing or door panel thats on show.
@@doloresmyatt9737 I get your point and agree when using an after-market subframe. They are rubbish, I've fitted a few in the past. The subframe I used was a British Motor Heritage subframe which is built to original specification using the tooling Rover used and with arguably better metal. A BMH subframe is twice the price of an aftermarket one but they are as good quality as the OE part.
Mine came off without any issues what so ever, I was very very surprised. Frustrating I know but a new subframe will transform the underside, not to mention having one that doesn’t flex too 👍🏻👍🏻 great video Keith
What a bugga hey! Not what you needed. But a positive i feel was finding the previous patch ups and general condition, whilst it's guna cost (never a good thing) least you know a new one will safe and secure hey.
Keith, It‘s a horrible feeling you get in the pit of your stomach when you just know the bolts going to snap on you! Cheers Dave
Its a bit of a blessing in disguise if the bolts for the radius arm had come out easily you would of left the sunframe in and not noticed the terminal rust at least the heel doesn't need any welding but it's still a ball ache forking out for a new subframe
Gutting mate. If you need help up there with anything, just shout. It works both ways mate!
Its all part of owning a classic ! Little hiccups along the way !
I've just finished rebuilding my rear sub and I've had similar issues. I genuinely reckon that the original 5/16 bolts are 1/4 too long and hence when they rust you end up with this scenario. I have had to helicoil in two new threads and I have replaced the bolts with shorter ones. The one you snapped that goes into the panel...... drill it out and helicol it. Not a nice job I grant you but it will beat replacing the panel with the captives in it.
Shame about the subframe mate but just think your front end is done and rear end will be, good excuse to make its all shiny underneath 😉
Gutted for you Keith but I guess in the long term you wouldn't really want to be riding round with the subframe like that.
Spot on mate, rather find out now than find it crumples in a crash or something
Devastating that is keith. Welding a nut on the end of that stud might just give enough heat to help free it. Good luck keith