A tip for everyone I saw on another video you can jack the car up remove the tire and just lower it to level it instead of jacking it and putting it on ramps or stands saves you a lot of time!
Great video with no filler. Thanks! You are lucky to the have the 1.5. I have the 2.0EB and the solid metal pipes that go into the transmission fluid cooler are directly above the vent cap which makes taking it off and putting it back on a lot harder! I added a full bottle of Lucas transmission fix along with the Mercon. The Lucas makes it thicker which might help with that 2-3 gear hesitation that is very common on the 6F35. Mine definitely has it but it's never been a real problem. Hopefully this will reduce it. One tip that I can share is I used empty windshield washer fluid jugs to make sure I was putting in the exact same amount of fluid that came out. I put the old fluid in a jug and then rinsed out another jug to put the new fluid in. I put them side by side and poured the same amount of new fluid in the other jug. I added a bit extra of the new fluid to account for any lost in the oil drain pan or funnel. Since this was my first time doing it, I also did the level check method you did and no fluid came out when I removed the bolt. I put in a bit more of the new fluid in the vent hole and it immediately came out the level hole. So my method of just putting in the same amount of fluid as what came out worked perfectly. For this reason I probably won't do the level check method for future changes.
Thanks for the feedback! As long as it’s not leaking, the method you outlined does seem to also work. I actually changed it exactly as you said the first time I did it. The way I outlined is what is in the Haynes manual, so I figured that was worth showing.
Yep, I call that extra 3-4oz the “stick around Amount”. When I do my oil changes, in my Jeep Wranglers, I suck out and replace 2 quarts of ATF+4 with every other oil change (no drain plug), to keep the ATF fresh, and avoid the “shock” to the transmission of complete fluid replacement in one shot. For ATF, I always use only OEM.
Good video...I have a Gen 1 6F35 and use Valvoline Max Life fully synthetic fluid. It's an LV type fluid that comes in 1 gallon containers ($20 at Walmart). I drain 1 gallon, and replace it with 1 gallon every 10K miles. The dry capacity of the 6F35 is 9 quarts, so replacing 1 gallon every 10K miles ensures that the fluid stays fresh and the internal filter stays clean.
i have been using valvoline lv fluild for the past 5 years// every other oil change ( 6000 mile oil change on my 2014 2.0 vel engine )i drop 4 quarts of fluid and replace it... its not expensive to do it this way... and my car shifts quite well
After draining the fluid remove the side plug so you know exactly when it’s full without losing 1+ quart like the guy in the video. It itself is a vent
It is supposed to be up to temp (driving to get to temp) and running (in park) when you vent it to get the proper fill level. You’ve got to have the fluid in the trans to do this, so will need some overfill.
@@thegreatecb A lot of cars now come with “lifetime” transmission fluid, claim never change it. They do this for the sales aspects, so new customers think less maintenance required. It may last the 150k but it will be well out of warranty and no longer the manufactures problem, but the customers, and in many cases no longer the original owner
@@thegreatecbthen don't change it. I have been changing my transmission fluid and filter every 60k miles. Truck is at 365k. I don't follow my manual.
Great video. Mercon LV is a type not a brand. Motocraft is the brand which is formulated by another company and private labeled for Ford. I use Castrol Transmax Full Synthetic that specifies “Mercon LV”. I do believe it is superior to Motocraft
Clean workspace. Simple, yet thorough explanation. I appreciate the time you took for this. Excellent job 👍 Sending you some nitrile gloves for Christmas!
Just a suggestion, if you remove the fill level plug it will vent that way while refilling. Also you’ll know when it’s full and not waste expensive fluid. It’s faster filling and you won’t have fluid splashing back at you and all over the car. Or just back the funnel out a smidge so it can draw air from around the neck of the funnel.
Great video I love how you explain everything I have a Ford fusion SE 2018 and for reason my gears will not allow the vehicle to move at first I thought it was the automatic transmission problem they is no indicator light that comes on so I will check the fluids thanks alot for your help. Great video 😊
Thanks and god luck with your car! Checking your fluid level and replacing the fluid is a great place to start. Just changing the fluid can make a big difference in how it shifts.
@@AlsGarageRestorations the ford's have bad transmissions in 2017 2018 fusions, I see lots of problems. Buy Lucas oil stabilizer and add it to transmission, it's magic in a bottle for slipping gears.
Thank you for video. I would probably leave splash shield off until after I started car and check for leaks. Also. If you place a small screwdriver in the fill hole with the funnel, the fluid will run much quicker and keep from overflowing. Tha ks again
Might I offer a different method? You’ve drained four quarts and end up with 11 qts dirty fluid still in the transmission. Here’s the method I use with the purchase of 10 qts fluid: 1) Drain old oil so you can capture it and measure it usually around 3.5-4 qts. 2. Install plug and install same amount drained using new fluid. 3. Do test drive to mix new and old oil usually out and back ten minutes. 4. Let car sit for ten minutes and drain again capturing all that drains and note quantity again will be 3.5-4 qts. 5. Once more do the drive out and back. 6. Pull level check plug thru wheel well and add if needed. You’ve successfully circulated eight qts fresh fluid thru your transmission and fluid will appear cleaner than with single drain. My Edge sits with enuff clearance to reach drain plug and do the drain without ramps. It is tight but is doable.
Thanks for this comment. That’s a great way to do it, showing there’s definitely more than one way to get to the end goal. I wish I had more clearance like with the Edge - that would definitely save getting this on ramps.
I'm considering doing this method. I just don't want to go for a drive and have to little fluid in the trans case. Just want to make sure I understand completely
@@AlsGarageRestorations There are differing opinions out there on complete transmission fluid flushes. If you do it every 30k miles from new probably fine. But on transmissions that have gone a lot longer some of the residue from the clutches actually help with the friction during the clutch engagement, because of the wear caused by the old fluid. A complete flush will eliminate all of this and can cause the transmission to slip in some cases. Many reputable mechanics only recommend a drain and fill if it has gone for well over the interval for this reason. To leave some of old fluid/residue in, but add some new to renew the fluid properties. Kind of a balancing act. Some mechanics on certain transmissions recommend never changing it if you’ve let it go to long (like 100k miles). Basically understanding it’s not an ideal situation. But weigh both risks. If you change the fluid, the risk of slipping becomes much greater once the clutches are worn to the point they need the residue for proper friction.
I've seen some people reaching the bolt behind the wheel to drain and level without jacking the car, using a long extension. it's definitely easier, but not sure if it's possible for all models or not
My ‘14 Fusion with the 2.0 EB / 6 speed automatic has the filler cap on top and the fill check plug in front of the CV axle. My ‘17 Escape with the same 2.0 and 6 speed automatic does not have a filler cap at all and the plug on the side (which has to serve as both the fill and oil level check port) is behind the CV axle.
When I changed mine today the drain plug was out like 1/3. I couldn't believe it. I'm the 2nd owner and the car only had 13,xxx on it when I purchased it.
Nice job! My thoughts are if you accurately measure what you drained out (cold). Can't you just install the same amount of new fluid (cold) and not go though any additional steps?
do not ever believe what is the schedule maintenance from the manufacturer, it all lies, if a person wants to keep their vehicle for over ten years, change oil at least twice a year, transmission and coolant once a year......... especially for daily driving vehicles and the people that think their cars are race cars......
@@ndgolibertyactually…. I have the 2.5L Fusion S and i followed the book on mine and did it at 150,000 miles and then again at about 270,000 miles and it was fine until my trans went bad at 308,000 miles ….got a used one with only 11,000 miles on it and is at about 358,000 miles right now and I’m gonna do the 60,000 miles recommended intervals now and see how long I can get out of this one 🎉
Thanks for the info but, has anybody ever measured the fluid level after doing all this work with a wooden dowel or anything so that they don't have to go through all this crap a second time in the future just to check the fluid? After all, how hard would that be?
I did the fluid change ... But the manual said 8.5 Lts, that is 8 quarter I fill the trasmission but inmedtly all was ejected by the lateral screw, I was scared ... But now with your video ... I must Let the oil exit, AND I close the srew, when the oil stop correct ?
While the engine is idling and the oil is warm/hot open the "lateral" plug and let the excess drain out. I believe the entire capacity of the transmission is 8.5 lts - but you can only get about half of it without dropping the transmission and splitting it. If it was correctly filled before you started you'll get 4-5 quarts to drain out the bottom. Measure what came out and then refill with a little more. When the engine hits operating temperature pull the "lateral" plug and let it drain down to the correct level. You will want to over fill a little because if you don't get enough in (pull the lateral plug and nothing comes out) you have to set up the funnel and pull the top plug again and add some transmission fluid. A real PITA - especially if you don't have someone handy to watch the lateral plug to tell you when the oil is coming out.
16:27 If u repeat the process the next days, won't that ditch the new fluid u just put. This is so confusing 😅 Uh I get it, so the other half is distributed inside the gearbox And mixes with the new one The first change flushed 50%, so the second change becomes 75% and so on, right? What if the manual says change it every X miles, does it mean flushing once or more XD Thanks for the video it was very helpful
With the change he just did the oil mix is 50% old dirty oil, 50% new oil. If he changes it again in a day or so its now 25% old oil and 75% new oil. Not perfect but getting most of the oil changed is good. If you change the oil on a regular basis it will stay fairly fresh. I have a Taurus with a similar setup - except it does have a dip stick. The first time I changed the fluid when I bought the car at 67K I started it while it was on the stand and let it idle for 20 minutes and changed the fluid a second time right on the spot. I use Valvoline Max Life Synthetic - much cheaper and a very high quality oil. It is compatible with Mercon LV and Dexron VI. It made draining out the oil for second change much cheaper. On a good day you can buy it in the gallon jugs for $20-$22 at Walmart. If you keep changing it at 30K miles after this the oil should stay fairly clean. I am a huge believer that oil is cheaper than overhauls. So much of the maintenance schedule is market driven rather than engineer driven. The sales guys want a low cost of ownership they can advertise. If they can show no transmission oil changes and only 5 or 6 engine oil changes in the first 50K miles they have a nice low cost of ownership they can brag to the customer about. As long as it gets the car out of the warranty period without a major break down Ford is happy too. But those long intervals between oil changes and other fluids greatly shorten the life of the car - the manufacturers don't care - they sell new cars - not used cars.
You may see recommendations of 60k miles or higher. That may work, but your chances are higher for serious issues. I recommend every 30k miles so the clean fluid won’t ruin the filter and wear the components. You need to pull the trans to clean/replace the filter on these cars, and more frequent changes reduces that possibility.
When fluid is changed in this manner, it only changes 50% of the fluid. If you immediately change again after a drive, it changes 50% of what you’ve done which is essentially now 75% new fluid.
Thanks for the video! I plan on changing the transmission fluid for my 2016 Ford Fusion. Do you repeat the process twice to make sure you're getting out all the dirt and debris from the transmission?
@@AlsGarageRestorations Gotcha! Also, what happens if you aren't able to check the fluid at a flat level? My hex head screw will not come off even with the wrench
@@meccabaker3941 if it doesn’t have the correct amount you could wear it out faster or it could leak faster. You really have to get the right amount of fluid. Make sure you are turning it the right way and use a six point wrench or socket on it for maximum grip and torque on it
@@bobomomo3764 because the transmission holds about 9 quarts and only 4 to 4 1/2 quarts drains out when you pull the plug. Half of the fluid is still sitting in various parts like the torque converter.
A power flush uses a machine they hook up to the transmission and they use a large amount of fluid to essentially replace all the fluid. This is a good way to go, but the way I showed here is a more traditional ‘DIY’ way. Each time I do it the non ‘power flush’ way only 50% of the fluid is changed. Which is why I say to do it twice which gets you 75% new fluid.
Thanks for the video! Hopefully you can respond back. I asked the dealership to do this. They want about 290 because I was told they have to update the modules after the transmission fluid change. Is this true? Or are they just performing a simple transmission reset that I can do with the ForScan Lite app?
I don't have a lot of experience with the ForScan Lite app, but I can say that having it would be a great way to diagnose any trouble codes and reset things yourself. I have not reset anything with my car when conducting transmission fluid changes. My thought is that I would attempt to reset the transmission if it's not shifting right or giving you trouble and a fluid change doesn't correct it or make a difference. From the standpoint of the dealership, a transmission module update would be a good way to send a car out the door with one less thing to come back with. But if it doesn't need to be reset why do it? A fluid change is a hardware job, not a software job. Hope this helps!
@@AlsGarageRestorations Thank you for the response! With what you said, it just sounds like the dealership might try to just charge me more. So I will do the change myself.
Is necessary to pull out all excess oil, I've put 5L and when I unplug the adjustment bolt the oil comes out with pressure but I don't think I've let it drain all
As long as the vehicle is level, it should drain out the excess fluid when you remove the plug. When it is no longer flowing out while the car is running, that should be “full”
@@AlsGarageRestorations when I tried after I put 5L oil, from the bolt came oil with pressure. I drain 200-300ml and put the bolt again. I was afraid to lose the oil
I cleaned the top of the engine bay before this vid. Didn’t clean underneath though. If yours is dirty it may be a slow leak somewhere. Might be good to clean your engine and see if anything is leaking.
I have a 2013 fusion and my dealer wants to charge $250 to change the fluid. They say that my particular trans doesn't have a drain plug so they have to use a vacuum hose to suck the fluid out. Is that right? I haven't gotten under my car yet to look but I will soon. I wish I would have thought to check when the fluid needs to be changed because my car has 85k miles on it and has never been changed. I'm praying I don't have any major problems later. Also, how do I check what model of trans I have? Thanks for your help and the great video.
Negative…it does have a drain plug. If you trans is working well and no issues just go ahead do a drain and fill. You should be ok, and going forward reduce the interval to 30k.
@@professionalics Thanks for the reply. I did change the trans fluid after I got under the car and found the drain plug. I changed it twice because it was so black, like motor oil. I can't understand why the service guy told me it didn't have a drain plug! It was a Quick Lane service next door to the Ford dealer and the Ford service shop wanted to charge $250 for a transmission fluid change. I saved a lot of money doing it myself.
@@Keene88 LV breaks down pretty fast so keep a short maintenance schedule…not to mention the transmission you are working with does not exactly have a very good reputation. Good luck and happy wrenching!!
@@Keene88 The service guy wanted to make $200 off you. That's one of the reasons it good to know how these things work - even if you don't do it yourself. You'll know when someone is trying to cheat you.
Thanks! I started with 10, which was more than I needed. Changed it (4.5qts) then changed it again, and that left me with 1qt extra. Each change only replaces about 50% of the fluid.
It’s true - you can do this without removing the wheel. I did it with the wheel on the first time I changed the fluid. Removing the wheel gets you easier access, nice especially when the vehicle is hot.
The case doesn’t hold all of the fluid. The rest is in the lines and inside the torque converter. The only way to get every drop in one sitting is to fill while it is running while removing the old fluid through a transmission line that exits the transmission.
Amazing video ! This gives me confidence to change the atf fluid at homes itself .
A tip for everyone I saw on another video you can jack the car up remove the tire and just lower it to level it instead of jacking it and putting it on ramps or stands saves you a lot of time!
Great video with no filler. Thanks!
You are lucky to the have the 1.5. I have the 2.0EB and the solid metal pipes that go into the transmission fluid cooler are directly above the vent cap which makes taking it off and putting it back on a lot harder!
I added a full bottle of Lucas transmission fix along with the Mercon. The Lucas makes it thicker which might help with that 2-3 gear hesitation that is very common on the 6F35. Mine definitely has it but it's never been a real problem. Hopefully this will reduce it.
One tip that I can share is I used empty windshield washer fluid jugs to make sure I was putting in the exact same amount of fluid that came out. I put the old fluid in a jug and then rinsed out another jug to put the new fluid in. I put them side by side and poured the same amount of new fluid in the other jug. I added a bit extra of the new fluid to account for any lost in the oil drain pan or funnel.
Since this was my first time doing it, I also did the level check method you did and no fluid came out when I removed the bolt. I put in a bit more of the new fluid in the vent hole and it immediately came out the level hole. So my method of just putting in the same amount of fluid as what came out worked perfectly. For this reason I probably won't do the level check method for future changes.
Thanks for the feedback! As long as it’s not leaking, the method you outlined does seem to also work. I actually changed it exactly as you said the first time I did it. The way I outlined is what is in the Haynes manual, so I figured that was worth showing.
It’s better to fill to the line than to put the same amount in as the amount you need to add back could be different from what came out
Yep, I call that extra 3-4oz the “stick around Amount”. When I do my oil changes, in my Jeep Wranglers, I suck out and replace 2 quarts of ATF+4 with every other oil change (no drain plug), to keep the ATF fresh, and avoid the “shock” to the transmission of complete fluid replacement in one shot. For ATF, I always use only OEM.
Good video...I have a Gen 1 6F35 and use Valvoline Max Life fully synthetic fluid. It's an LV type fluid that comes in 1 gallon containers ($20 at Walmart). I drain 1 gallon, and replace it with 1 gallon every 10K miles. The dry capacity of the 6F35 is 9 quarts, so replacing 1 gallon every 10K miles ensures that the fluid stays fresh and the internal filter stays clean.
Thanks for sharing! Changing every 10k ensures everything stays clean for sure.
i have been using valvoline lv fluild for the past 5 years// every other oil change ( 6000 mile oil change on my 2014 2.0 vel engine )i drop 4 quarts of fluid and replace it... its not expensive to do it this way... and my car shifts quite well
Well! It's better have interchanges every 40.000 m that will save all the trouble doing it every 10.000 k?
@@randellgribben9772how expensive is per gallon or quart size you use ?
After draining the fluid remove the side plug so you know exactly when it’s full without losing 1+ quart like the guy in the video. It itself is a vent
It is supposed to be up to temp (driving to get to temp) and running (in park) when you vent it to get the proper fill level.
You’ve got to have the fluid in the trans to do this, so will need some overfill.
@@thegreatecb
A lot of cars now come with “lifetime” transmission fluid, claim never change it.
They do this for the sales aspects, so new customers think less maintenance required.
It may last the 150k but it will be well out of warranty and no longer the manufactures problem, but the customers, and in many cases no longer the original owner
@@thegreatecbthen don't change it. I have been changing my transmission fluid and filter every 60k miles. Truck is at 365k. I don't follow my manual.
Great video. Mercon LV is a type not a brand. Motocraft is the brand which is formulated by another company and private labeled for Ford. I use Castrol Transmax Full Synthetic that specifies “Mercon LV”. I do believe it is superior to Motocraft
Thank you sir I’ve look at other videos here about this and they all don’t even come close on how well this video is put together
That fluid color looks great
The editing quality and knowledge was amazing please keep up these videos
Clean workspace. Simple, yet thorough explanation. I appreciate the time you took for this. Excellent job 👍
Sending you some nitrile gloves for Christmas!
Just a suggestion, if you remove the fill level plug it will vent that way while refilling. Also you’ll know when it’s full and not waste expensive fluid. It’s faster filling and you won’t have fluid splashing back at you and all over the car. Or just back the funnel out a smidge so it can draw air from around the neck of the funnel.
You should still drive it and then check because the fluid expands as it heats
Great video I love how you explain everything I have a Ford fusion SE 2018 and for reason my gears will not allow the vehicle to move at first I thought it was the automatic transmission problem they is no indicator light that comes on so I will check the fluids thanks alot for your help. Great video 😊
Thanks and god luck with your car! Checking your fluid level and replacing the fluid is a great place to start. Just changing the fluid can make a big difference in how it shifts.
@@AlsGarageRestorations the ford's have bad transmissions in 2017 2018 fusions, I see lots of problems. Buy Lucas oil stabilizer and add it to transmission, it's magic in a bottle for slipping gears.
Well done. Getting ready to do the full monty on a 8F35. Change the filter as well. First change at 55K. Bought 3K ago.
Good luck!
Thank you for video. I would probably leave splash shield off until after I started car and check for leaks. Also. If you place a small screwdriver in the fill hole with the funnel, the fluid will run much quicker and keep from overflowing. Tha ks again
Great video, thank you for helping me.
Might I offer a different method? You’ve drained four quarts and end up with 11 qts dirty fluid still in the transmission. Here’s the method I use with the purchase of 10 qts fluid:
1) Drain old oil so you can capture it and measure it usually around 3.5-4 qts.
2. Install plug and install same amount drained using new fluid.
3. Do test drive to mix new and old oil usually out and back ten minutes.
4. Let car sit for ten minutes and drain again capturing all that drains and note quantity again will be 3.5-4 qts.
5. Once more do the drive out and back.
6. Pull level check plug thru wheel well and add if needed.
You’ve successfully circulated eight qts fresh fluid thru your transmission and fluid will appear cleaner than with single drain.
My Edge sits with enuff clearance to reach drain plug and do the drain without ramps. It is tight but is doable.
Thanks for this comment. That’s a great way to do it, showing there’s definitely more than one way to get to the end goal. I wish I had more clearance like with the Edge - that would definitely save getting this on ramps.
So after step 4 should be, fill up again, then go drive?
@@Mr.Towboater87 No but if one could afford it that would not be a bad idea.
I'm considering doing this method. I just don't want to go for a drive and have to little fluid in the trans case. Just want to make sure I understand completely
@@AlsGarageRestorations
There are differing opinions out there on complete transmission fluid flushes.
If you do it every 30k miles from new probably fine.
But on transmissions that have gone a lot longer some of the residue from the clutches actually help with the friction during the clutch engagement, because of the wear caused by the old fluid.
A complete flush will eliminate all of this and can cause the transmission to slip in some cases.
Many reputable mechanics only recommend a drain and fill if it has gone for well over the interval for this reason.
To leave some of old fluid/residue in, but add some new to renew the fluid properties.
Kind of a balancing act.
Some mechanics on certain transmissions recommend never changing it if you’ve let it go to long (like 100k miles).
Basically understanding it’s not an ideal situation.
But weigh both risks.
If you change the fluid, the risk of slipping becomes much greater once the clutches are worn to the point they need the residue for proper friction.
I've seen some people reaching the bolt behind the wheel to drain and level without jacking the car, using a long extension. it's definitely easier, but not sure if it's possible for all models or not
yes i just pull the wheel off and lower the jack to make the car level and its easy to get the plug out that way.
Hi, I never change the transmission fluid my car has 180,000 miles can I change it or no thank you
You should have said early on that when you removed the leveling plug that the car MUST be running in idle when checking the fluid level.
NICE WORK
My ‘14 Fusion with the 2.0 EB / 6 speed automatic has the filler cap on top and the fill check plug in front of the CV axle. My ‘17 Escape with the same 2.0 and 6 speed automatic does not have a filler cap at all and the plug on the side (which has to serve as both the fill and oil level check port) is behind the CV axle.
I would of gone with Amsoil ATF signature series Blue Cap. (Only if you plan to keep the car many many years)
When I changed mine today the drain plug was out like 1/3. I couldn't believe it. I'm the 2nd owner and the car only had 13,xxx on it when I purchased it.
Nice job! My thoughts are if you accurately measure what you drained out (cold). Can't you just install the same amount of new fluid (cold) and not go though any additional steps?
That’s what I am going to do.
Yes right
How much fluid came out when you leveled the car after putting in 4.5 quarts
I made the same mistake with the splash shield and made a terrible mess, but I got the job done.
You are usually safe at draining and then adding 4.5 quarts.
Is it not necessary to check the level if I've never changed the fluid? I don't wanna take the wheel off lmao
Cool, thanks
Thanks for the video! Who is the jerk that thought this leveling plug behind the wheel was a good idea instead of a dipstick? :)
Good question! Not how I would’ve designed it.
Where did you get your manual that says "change trans fluid every 60k miles"? Mine says every 150k miles
It won’t make it to 150k miles without a change
do not ever believe what is the schedule maintenance from the manufacturer, it all lies, if a person wants to keep their vehicle for over ten years, change oil at least twice a year, transmission and coolant once a year......... especially for daily driving vehicles and the people that think their cars are race cars......
@@ndgolibertyactually…. I have the 2.5L Fusion S and i followed the book on mine and did it at 150,000 miles and then again at about 270,000 miles and it was fine until my trans went bad at 308,000 miles ….got a used one with only 11,000 miles on it and is at about 358,000 miles right now and I’m gonna do the 60,000 miles recommended intervals now and see how long I can get out of this one 🎉
Usually for severe service it is 60,000. Most vehicles would actually be severe service.
I"ve got a 2020 Fusion, what do you suggest if a Ford Dealer does a fluid change, the Fusion only has about 35,000 miles on it.
thank you
Wait so you add fluid just to dump it out?
I own a 2016 and my Service Manual says to change it every 150k, but I will change it at 40k. That's crazy it says at 150k miles!
Oh no! My car is having all these issues… I followed the recommendations from the service manual…
Thanks for the info but, has anybody ever measured the fluid level after doing all this work with a wooden dowel or anything so that they don't have to go through all this crap a second time in the future just to check the fluid?
After all, how hard would that be?
is there no transmission filter.?
Correct
I did the fluid change ... But the manual said 8.5 Lts, that is 8 quarter I fill the trasmission but inmedtly all was ejected by the lateral screw, I was scared ... But now with your video ... I must Let the oil exit, AND I close the srew, when the oil stop correct ?
While the engine is idling and the oil is warm/hot open the "lateral" plug and let the excess drain out. I believe the entire capacity of the transmission is 8.5 lts - but you can only get about half of it without dropping the transmission and splitting it. If it was correctly filled before you started you'll get 4-5 quarts to drain out the bottom. Measure what came out and then refill with a little more. When the engine hits operating temperature pull the "lateral" plug and let it drain down to the correct level. You will want to over fill a little because if you don't get enough in (pull the lateral plug and nothing comes out) you have to set up the funnel and pull the top plug again and add some transmission fluid. A real PITA - especially if you don't have someone handy to watch the lateral plug to tell you when the oil is coming out.
Hello. Great video. How to now what transmision is 2017 ford fusion2.5? Gen1 or Gen2 6F35? Maybe is place where can check it? Thanks
Why did u change the filter . Was it needed ? Or it’s optional?
16:27
If u repeat the process the next days, won't that ditch the new fluid u just put. This is so confusing 😅
Uh I get it, so the other half is distributed inside the gearbox
And mixes with the new one
The first change flushed 50%, so the second change becomes 75% and so on, right?
What if the manual says change it every X miles, does it mean flushing once or more XD
Thanks for the video it was very helpful
With the change he just did the oil mix is 50% old dirty oil, 50% new oil. If he changes it again in a day or so its now 25% old oil and 75% new oil. Not perfect but getting most of the oil changed is good. If you change the oil on a regular basis it will stay fairly fresh. I have a Taurus with a similar setup - except it does have a dip stick. The first time I changed the fluid when I bought the car at 67K I started it while it was on the stand and let it idle for 20 minutes and changed the fluid a second time right on the spot. I use Valvoline Max Life Synthetic - much cheaper and a very high quality oil. It is compatible with Mercon LV and Dexron VI. It made draining out the oil for second change much cheaper. On a good day you can buy it in the gallon jugs for $20-$22 at Walmart.
If you keep changing it at 30K miles after this the oil should stay fairly clean. I am a huge believer that oil is cheaper than overhauls. So much of the maintenance schedule is market driven rather than engineer driven. The sales guys want a low cost of ownership they can advertise. If they can show no transmission oil changes and only 5 or 6 engine oil changes in the first 50K miles they have a nice low cost of ownership they can brag to the customer about. As long as it gets the car out of the warranty period without a major break down Ford is happy too. But those long intervals between oil changes and other fluids greatly shorten the life of the car - the manufacturers don't care - they sell new cars - not used cars.
Thanks Doug! Great response - agreed with your statements here.
Ford Fusion 1.5 2018. At what mileage should the gearbox oil filter be changed?
You may see recommendations of 60k miles or higher. That may work, but your chances are higher for serious issues. I recommend every 30k miles so the clean fluid won’t ruin the filter and wear the components. You need to pull the trans to clean/replace the filter on these cars, and more frequent changes reduces that possibility.
How many QT of oil you put on your transmission in total?
why there is second time of dicharge
after a test drive?
When fluid is changed in this manner, it only changes 50% of the fluid. If you immediately change again after a drive, it changes 50% of what you’ve done which is essentially now 75% new fluid.
@@AlsGarageRestorations wait, i meant the discharge that you need to removed the tire and rim
you check level after fluid warms up.
When should the filter box be changed?
When its dirty
Does this transmission fluid work for the 2.0 turbo ford fusion?
Thanks for the video! I plan on changing the transmission fluid for my 2016 Ford Fusion. Do you repeat the process twice to make sure you're getting out all the dirt and debris from the transmission?
Yes! A fluid change like I did only replaces roughly 50% of the fluid in the transmission, so twice gets you pretty close to a full fluid change.
@@AlsGarageRestorations Gotcha! Also, what happens if you aren't able to check the fluid at a flat level? My hex head screw will not come off even with the wrench
@@meccabaker3941 if it doesn’t have the correct amount you could wear it out faster or it could leak faster. You really have to get the right amount of fluid. Make sure you are turning it the right way and use a six point wrench or socket on it for maximum grip and torque on it
I don't understand how it's only 50% changed when u drained it out until it stops completely 🤔🤷♂️
@@bobomomo3764 because the transmission holds about 9 quarts and only 4 to 4 1/2 quarts drains out when you pull the plug. Half of the fluid is still sitting in various parts like the torque converter.
Why did you take the tire off , that didn’t do anything .
I asked my local Ford dealer to replace the trans fluid and it will cost $250.
This is for a 'power flush'
A power flush uses a machine they hook up to the transmission and they use a large amount of fluid to essentially replace all the fluid. This is a good way to go, but the way I showed here is a more traditional ‘DIY’ way. Each time I do it the non ‘power flush’ way only 50% of the fluid is changed. Which is why I say to do it twice which gets you 75% new fluid.
Is there a filter in there you need to change as well?
No
Actually the owner's manual gives a 150 K Mile recommended Trans fluid change .. What's the real deal ?
Severe service is less. Most cars would be considered severe service. 60,000 is a good and cheap change interval
Thanks for the video! Hopefully you can respond back. I asked the dealership to do this. They want about 290 because I was told they have to update the modules after the transmission fluid change. Is this true? Or are they just performing a simple transmission reset that I can do with the ForScan Lite app?
I don't have a lot of experience with the ForScan Lite app, but I can say that having it would be a great way to diagnose any trouble codes and reset things yourself. I have not reset anything with my car when conducting transmission fluid changes. My thought is that I would attempt to reset the transmission if it's not shifting right or giving you trouble and a fluid change doesn't correct it or make a difference. From the standpoint of the dealership, a transmission module update would be a good way to send a car out the door with one less thing to come back with. But if it doesn't need to be reset why do it? A fluid change is a hardware job, not a software job. Hope this helps!
@@AlsGarageRestorations Thank you for the response! With what you said, it just sounds like the dealership might try to just charge me more. So I will do the change myself.
How I find out the engine specs and what type of transmission? I’m going to buy used car 2015 SE. 108,000 miles for $5900
the VIN #
Is necessary to pull out all excess oil, I've put 5L and when I unplug the adjustment bolt the oil comes out with pressure but I don't think I've let it drain all
As long as the vehicle is level, it should drain out the excess fluid when you remove the plug. When it is no longer flowing out while the car is running, that should be “full”
@@AlsGarageRestorations when I tried after I put 5L oil, from the bolt came oil with pressure. I drain 200-300ml and put the bolt again. I was afraid to lose the oil
Was the car running when you checked it?
@@zzman5306 yes
Why is your engine bay so clean? My 2016 fusion is much more dirty. Have you cleaned yours or my engine leaks?
I cleaned the top of the engine bay before this vid. Didn’t clean underneath though. If yours is dirty it may be a slow leak somewhere. Might be good to clean your engine and see if anything is leaking.
@@AlsGarageRestorations Thanks!
I have a 2013 fusion and my dealer wants to charge $250 to change the fluid. They say that my particular trans doesn't have a drain plug so they have to use a vacuum hose to suck the fluid out. Is that right? I haven't gotten under my car yet to look but I will soon. I wish I would have thought to check when the fluid needs to be changed because my car has 85k miles on it and has never been changed. I'm praying I don't have any major problems later. Also, how do I check what model of trans I have? Thanks for your help and the great video.
Negative…it does have a drain plug. If you trans is working well and no issues just go ahead do a drain and fill. You should be ok, and going forward reduce the interval to 30k.
@@professionalics Thanks for the reply. I did change the trans fluid after I got under the car and found the drain plug. I changed it twice because it was so black, like motor oil. I can't understand why the service guy told me it didn't have a drain plug! It was a Quick Lane service next door to the Ford dealer and the Ford service shop wanted to charge $250 for a transmission fluid change. I saved a lot of money doing it myself.
@@Keene88 LV breaks down pretty fast so keep a short maintenance schedule…not to mention the transmission you are working with does not exactly have a very good reputation. Good luck and happy wrenching!!
@@Keene88 The service guy was wrong, the 2013 and newer Fusion doesn't have a dipstick/fill port.
@@Keene88 The service guy wanted to make $200 off you. That's one of the reasons it good to know how these things work - even if you don't do it yourself. You'll know when someone is trying to cheat you.
Why do u say 10 quarts them 4.5?
He said he was going to do the process again after about a day of driving, therefore why he bought twice the amount that it seemed he needed
Thanks! I started with 10, which was more than I needed. Changed it (4.5qts) then changed it again, and that left me with 1qt extra. Each change only replaces about 50% of the fluid.
A drain only gets about half the fluid out.
@@AlsGarageRestorations i heard you have to change it 3 to 3 times to fully change?
Can not having transmission fluid affect your acceleration pedal?
Yes. No transmission fluid the car doesn't move. Low transmission fluid and the car won't be moving for long.
@@HockeyGoon939 thank you so much!
What’s the point of doing that last step????
To make sure the transmission is not over filled
Make sure fluid level is correct.
How expensive is the fluid and filter?
No filter. Depends on Fluid used. Fluid between about $ 30-100.00.
So funny.. It's got the Ford 1.5 L but you want to keep this car for a long time... Worst of the poor Ford 4 cylinder engines!
Yeah, that’s real funny.
you don't have to remove the wheel, just turn full left, and you should be able to see that screw
On the 2013 and newer Fusion models, not the earlier cars.
It’s true - you can do this without removing the wheel. I did it with the wheel on the first time I changed the fluid. Removing the wheel gets you easier access, nice especially when the vehicle is hot.
You put 4.5 quarts in. You had car jacked up when removing level plug. Giving a inaccurate level. Then say it holds 9 quarts. You only put 4.5 in.
The case doesn’t hold all of the fluid. The rest is in the lines and inside the torque converter. The only way to get every drop in one sitting is to fill while it is running while removing the old fluid through a transmission line that exits the transmission.
Holds nine when the transmission is completely empty.
Drain only removes about half of fluid.
My manual says 150k.
Ok
For severe service 60,000 miles is normal. Most cars are severe service
You can’t see what ur doing. That sucks!