This is the third time you’ve posted a video within a hour of me looking for the exact answers. The effort, passion and commitment you’re putting into sharing your knowledge is much, much appreciated. Thank you! I’m a much better archer because of you.
It's essentially the same regardless of your method of aiming. The thing to keep in mind, however, is that your tune changes as you stringwalk. If you're a target archer only, it's simple - just tune for your particular crawl for the distance you shoot (18 metres indoors, 50 metres outdoors). However, if you're shooting field and 3D as well, you'll want to find a tune that will work over a wide range of distances. Most of my barebow pals swear by tuning at 30 metres, which makes sense since it's somewhere in the middle between your maximum and minimum distances at a field competition. Your mileage may, as always, vary, but it should at least get you somewhere in the ballpark.
Wish I could send you a pic of the 90's tech we used. It was made by Saunders and called a "Pressure button checker". If you needed to remove your button to clean or replace spring, this tool would measure pressure and the length out of the riser. Pretty nice for back in the day..
Thank you. You answered question on different tensions for aluminum and carbon, I thought something was wrong when my carbon needed high tension actually significantly higher.
Thank you for another straight forward simplifying, desacralizing video Jake! The amount of work you have been doing in the last months is just amazing! I know you already have your (busy) schedule of videos to produce, and I would like to share with you a topic to develop if you can: Training Strategies: How to design your training plan for over 1 year, or 1 month, and how to organize your training sessions (warm-up, distances, drills etc... ) My club doesn't have the structure and resources for offering such support. It gets a bit tricky to know how to organize your training to be able to perform well during tournaments at various distances when you don't know how to prioritise. Mixing Field, Indoor, 70/720, short-range 900, FITA 1440, etc makes me feel like I have no structure... Is it something you thought about ??
Timely set of videos here since plungers are currently occupying my interest. Since recovering from a quite serious illness the only way I could access a lesser draw weight was to bring out my original bow. To do that I felt I should upgrade a bit so I bought an actual plunger, and an Arrow rest. Next, I'm no fool I have no tools, a bow vise, Etc.so I took it to my local shop and for $15 done. Now I'm like a kid at Christmas Eve awaiting tomorrow and the opportunity to shoot it. Actually just to shoot after being ill most of the month will be a gift. I don't know when I've been away from archery for such a. Since I discovered it just after returning from being in my First solar eclipse Ever in Aug 2017. That was cool but the archery is lasted longer LOL
Another great video Jake! Plungers are one of the most confusing things on a bow and this video makes it so simple. Just by fluke more than good judgement, my Beiter plunger is exactly where you said it should be. Many thanks for all of the great video's!
As Marcos has written, you haven’t answered the question of how to set up the plunger. Also I can only pull 26-28lbs and use low cost xx75 arrows. Should I use a light spring?
Just got my first plunger and this has been very helpful. Just a little annoying not having the time or access to a range to do any kind of tuning as my club only shoots once a week. Tuning on the fly is not ideal for good scores :)
Thank you so much for the content your the only one going in depth on this stuff! Do you absolutely need a plunger just got my first recurve 6 months ago and absolutely addicted I’m hunting whitetail with it not competitive shooting at all how do people get away with shooting without plungers on tradition bows without threaded holes to put this stuff and I wanna get a plunger for the accuracy but I’m left handed and having the hardest time ever finding a plunger and rest that’s not a stick on rest I’ve been threw a couple of those already just wanna get a bolt on rest
Your bare shaft tuning video is great, I just got done reading your book as well. They both go hand in hand and you did a great job with both. Thanks for sharing and Keep up the great work sir. Dale
I've been learning step by step; it is quite technical to make bare shaft tuning. At my first time, I tune my arrows, but it took me a long time almost 1 hour before I was able to see the best result. As usual, 3 fletches, 3 unfletches, and after getting that optimum tuning, 6 arrows were grouping tightly. after taking almost an hour.
I bought the Beiter Plunger. It did exactly what you said..left marks on 5 of my arrows. Can you tell me which video it is that you show the difference of the Beiter and the AAE Gold Series please? Thank you
Thanks for the great video, one thing that you could address is how much is it worth spending on a plunger? There is a big range in price! Also: If I do a basic tune with the plunger very stiff then I get my bareshafts to group with the limb weight adjustment; walk-back centre-shot with the plunger collar adjustment and sight aligned to the edge of the string. Then my group will be to the left of the gold (for a right handed archer). Then all I have to do is reduce the plunger stiffness to bring the the group into the middle. This works fine for me and means that the arrows are leaving the bow in the plane of the bow. My form is not consistent enough to make the kind of fine tune you're talking about where you effectively de-tune to match your form, realistic.
Plunger tension and brace height basically alter "timing" ie the position of the 2 nodal points of the arrow relative to the button - this affect clearance as they alter the timing the rear node as it passes the plunger . Plunger tension also alters how long the front 2-3" of the arrow and front node are in contact with the button. I don't understand the reference to "frequency" as there are only 2 nodal points on the shaft . Grouping is impacted by the timing of how long the arrows stays in contact. Ultra high speed video has shown that slightly stiff tension is better than weak which gives clearance issues at the nock end
Are the plunger tips pretty much universal? I noticed that the Teflon tip on my Decut ZX229 is wearing down quickly. Is it likely that Beiter tips, which might be easier to find, will fit other plungers?
i Am trying to not become tuning obsessive. I now shoot at 34- 35 pounds and tuning the bow is insane. with 730 arrows my spine should be simple and Easton charts indicate the correct arrow choice at 28.75 shafts but bare shafts will not get close to fletched, showing stiff. I tried the bolt adjustment and have reached the max for 32 pound limbs. If i try the plunger the spring tension gets so low as to be nearly full out on the medium spring. there seems to be a harmonic point where i can get great groups and a good bare shaft but it does not hold and literally 1 click in or out makes the bare shaft go left like it is too stiff a spine with my groups collapsing . Yes adding a click out shows a stiff arrow too. Change to the light spring and there is no place the bow is tuned. Going out to 55 meters and nothing shoots like a well tuned bow at 30, notwithstanding the value of practice. logically a 730 would need less tension than a 500 but trying a 600 got the same result. a real good tune at one place with 0 forgiveness and changing with distance or the weather. Sorry but even after your video and lots of arrows the setting of a plunger and lighter weights seem to garner very different results can't anyone tell us 32 pound limbs with an xxx arrow is a medium spring between 4.8 and 5 .5 or similar? 3 years and the only consistency is change.
how does this work with someone who has a short draw? (22-1/4" at center of plunger). I have set my plunger to 5.6 with the weak spring. When I used the medium spring, my arrows would not group :(
Hi Jake, when you say 4.5 on the AAE Gold plunger is that 4 full winds out on the macro barrel thread and .5 on the micro adjust? Or, do you always wind the AAE in all the way on the macro barrel thread and set 4.5 on the micro collar?
So if I want to increase plunger tension, i.e., resistance to pressure, is it as logical as simply increasing the number setting and vice versa to decrease pressure?
Excuse me, Jake, but I couldn't see what you mean with you title: "How to setup your plunger". You didn't definetly show how to setup the plunger. Unfortunetly.
I have to agree. I came looking for help with setting up my plunger and left empty handed after a 14 minute video. Jake's videos are absolutely stellar in general, but this one - not so much.
I guess the setup is about screwing and unscrewing it and make the spring more tight of loose, I have no idea if I’m right but if I am I think what he means is that everyone can have a different preference on how bouncy the spring gets and probably u need to do some shootings to test out how u like it
To clarify: you said in general your optimal spring tension seems to be lighter with lighter draw weights? Even after controlling for arrow spine? Also, do you recommend doing stiff plunger testing to check draw weight?
We are having a hard time getting my arrows tuned properly. I have a short draw length my arrows are like 26" shooting Victory VAPs elite 800 spine 90 grain points only pulling at full draw between 25-26.5#. Arrows are shooting to the left when aiming at the X at 18 meters. Everything has been checked on my bow limb alignment and everything. We started messing with the plunger and I'm using the Beiter as well. The only difference we have seen is we took my clicker off and it started shooting better groups. But we also put the weaker spring in. Should I have left the medium spring in? Im a new archer anyway so not sure what to do and I am the only recurve shooter in my shop unfortunately.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery yes RH and no usually left eye is slightly closed. I had at one point the scope housing has far to the left as I could go. I was having to shoot 3:00 in the 3 Ring just to get it to hit in the 5 ring. A indoor target. Now we have recenter the scope housing to try and figure what else it could be.
Awesome, this is one of the mysteries of archery that I'm still trying to figure out, so doesn't the plunger stiffness also affects the point of impact horizontally?i.e. stiffer plunger moves my POI to the left? (I'm RH) As always, the Archery community gives standing ovation to Jake!
If it is too stiff yes, but if it is tuned, the arrow will bend and straighten the arrow out(they bend while in flight, the plunger reduces it as much as possible)
Question for youth archers. My daughter shoots light limbs with very weak arrows (15lb limbs, Medallion XR 1500 spine, 60gr point). What are your thoughts for someone like that as far as plunger tension/set up etc? Thanks again for the great videos!
So I managed to get silver in men’s barebow in our Cheshire indoor championships last Sunday, was my first tournament and had equipment failures with my rest and I was moving my plunger tension constantly throughout the shoot (I have done a lot of tuning beforehand with neutral results as usual) yet I was still smacking it in the gold? It’s fucking me mentally which is a shame however I STILL can’t find ‘a spot’ in the plunger where they group more consistently- it’s really been such a confusing thing man honestly. *edit* shooting for 10 months or so (barebow) medium spring. (Just got a beiter so messing with that)
Hi Jake, I've heard Brady uses an AAE stem in a Beiter plunger.. Probably from you. How easy is this to do? I have a Beiter and would like to try it out. Thanks from UK.
I love your channel as it contains so much information. I checked out your apparel and I did like them but may main reason to not buy is that on the back you have your name in a really big size. That is really a commercial mistake as I am not you so why would I have your name so big on my back. Somewhere small on the sleeve would be more appropriate.
Jake, thanks for another great video. Am a newbie in archery, initially I was only using a Hoyt plastic super rest w/o plunger with a 32pounds draw weight 31ish inch in draw length, 800spine arrow. After I did my bow tuning thanks to your video, I decided to use a plunger. That's where the problem starts. All my arrows will only fly to the left. No matter what adjustment I did to the plunger. Or even heavier arrow point, still my arrows fly left. Hope u could help me
I'm also a newbie, but have just been through your problem recently. I was shooting perfectly straight until one day all of my arrows started impacting right (I'm LEFT handed). I started messing with all sorts of things including the arrows, centre shot and plunger and nothing worked. I even had my centre shot way on the inside of my string with no difference at all! The problem was me! My form had somehow changed without me noticing it. I went back to basics and "re-learned" My stance, setup, anchor, expansion and release. I paid particular attention to back tension. For the first time last week I felt proper back tension. When you feel it for the first time, you will know it! You can feel the back muscles working. Us newbies have to find these things. Not only did this fix my problem, but I now shoot the best groups I've ever done. I hope this is some help to you.
I forgot to add... I'm shooting 32# Uukha limbs which are actually 34# on my fingers due to a 29.5" draw length. I'm using 600 spine carbon arrows with 90 grain points.
Hi Chris, Thanks for sharing your experience. Really appreciate it. Yes I did scrutinized my form initially. Thinking my form changes... But had the assistant coach to watch my form... All was OK..... But what the hell will try to my form training from scratch.... Thanks again chris
Sorry to be a negative, but you still don't answer how to set up a plunger on an actual bow. You talk about how to adjust the plunger, not setting it up on a bow. Same with your arrow rest setup videos. You cover the most basic setups, but no details.
These are not needed. A waste if money. Just spend time with your bow and use the same arrows. Get an old bow and shoot off a basic shelf or from the back of your hand and practice will bring accuracy.
You didn’t do anything to tell or help me set up the plunger set up. Sorry but it was not helpful. I am pissed cause the suns gonna go down and I wasted how much time
This is the third time you’ve posted a video within a hour of me looking for the exact answers. The effort, passion and commitment you’re putting into sharing your knowledge is much, much appreciated. Thank you! I’m a much better archer because of you.
So, I still haven't seen this demonstrated on a bow.
Can't wait to see plunger and tuning for stringwalking;)
It's essentially the same regardless of your method of aiming. The thing to keep in mind, however, is that your tune changes as you stringwalk. If you're a target archer only, it's simple - just tune for your particular crawl for the distance you shoot (18 metres indoors, 50 metres outdoors). However, if you're shooting field and 3D as well, you'll want to find a tune that will work over a wide range of distances. Most of my barebow pals swear by tuning at 30 metres, which makes sense since it's somewhere in the middle between your maximum and minimum distances at a field competition. Your mileage may, as always, vary, but it should at least get you somewhere in the ballpark.
got my aae gold plunger. my draw weight is 28lbs and set on lightest spring and lightest setting. kinda happy with the product.
Wish I could send you a pic of the 90's tech we used. It was made by Saunders and called a "Pressure button checker". If you needed to remove your button to clean or replace spring, this tool would measure pressure and the length out of the riser. Pretty nice for back in the day..
Thank you. You answered question on different tensions for aluminum and carbon, I thought something was wrong when my carbon needed high tension actually significantly higher.
Thank you for another straight forward simplifying, desacralizing video Jake! The amount of work you have been doing in the last months is just amazing!
I know you already have your (busy) schedule of videos to produce, and I would like to share with you a topic to develop if you can: Training Strategies: How to design your training plan for over 1 year, or 1 month, and how to organize your training sessions (warm-up, distances, drills etc... ) My club doesn't have the structure and resources for offering such support. It gets a bit tricky to know how to organize your training to be able to perform well during tournaments at various distances when you don't know how to prioritise. Mixing Field, Indoor, 70/720, short-range 900, FITA 1440, etc makes me feel like I have no structure... Is it something you thought about ??
Audio is much improved with a lavaliere mic
Timely set of videos here since plungers are currently occupying my interest. Since recovering from a quite serious illness the only way I could access a lesser draw weight was to bring out my original bow. To do that I felt I should upgrade a bit so I bought an actual plunger, and an Arrow rest. Next, I'm no fool I have no tools, a bow vise, Etc.so I took it to my local shop and for $15 done.
Now I'm like a kid at Christmas Eve awaiting tomorrow and the opportunity to shoot it.
Actually just to shoot after being ill most of the month will be a gift. I don't know when I've been away from archery for such a. Since I discovered it just after returning from being in my First solar eclipse Ever in Aug 2017. That was cool but the archery is lasted longer LOL
Another great video Jake! Plungers are one of the most confusing things on a bow and this video makes it so simple. Just by fluke more than good judgement, my Beiter plunger is exactly where you said it should be. Many thanks for all of the great video's!
As Marcos has written, you haven’t answered the question of how to set up the plunger. Also I can only pull 26-28lbs and use low cost xx75 arrows. Should I use a light spring?
U r the best man, u changed my archery life lol
Jake
Have you thought of pushing the plunger on a scale, maybe same one as for doing points to get an actual reading for your set up ?
Just got my first plunger and this has been very helpful. Just a little annoying not having the time or access to a range to do any kind of tuning as my club only shoots once a week. Tuning on the fly is not ideal for good scores :)
As a newbie this video is way over my head.
Watched several of your vids. Shooting straight at the targets first shots.... Only thing I had to do was adjust my sight pins up or down for range. 😎
Thank you so much for the content your the only one going in depth on this stuff! Do you absolutely need a plunger just got my first recurve 6 months ago and absolutely addicted I’m hunting whitetail with it not competitive shooting at all how do people get away with shooting without plungers on tradition bows without threaded holes to put this stuff and I wanna get a plunger for the accuracy but I’m left handed and having the hardest time ever finding a plunger and rest that’s not a stick on rest I’ve been threw a couple of those already just wanna get a bolt on rest
Your bare shaft tuning video is great, I just got done reading your book as well. They both go hand in hand and you did a great job with both. Thanks for sharing and Keep up the great work sir.
Dale
I've been learning step by step; it is quite technical to make bare shaft tuning. At my first time, I tune my arrows, but it took me a long time almost 1 hour before I was able to see the best result. As usual, 3 fletches, 3 unfletches, and after getting that optimum tuning, 6 arrows were grouping tightly. after taking almost an hour.
I bought the Beiter Plunger. It did exactly what you said..left marks on 5 of my arrows. Can you tell me which video it is that you show the difference of the Beiter and the AAE Gold Series please? Thank you
Thanks for the great video, one thing that you could address is how much is it worth spending on a plunger? There is a big range in price!
Also: If I do a basic tune with the plunger very stiff then I get my bareshafts to group with the limb weight adjustment; walk-back centre-shot with the plunger collar adjustment and sight aligned to the edge of the string. Then my group will be to the left of the gold (for a right handed archer). Then all I have to do is reduce the plunger stiffness to bring the the group into the middle. This works fine for me and means that the arrows are leaving the bow in the plane of the bow.
My form is not consistent enough to make the kind of fine tune you're talking about where you effectively de-tune to match your form, realistic.
So if you’re using a medium spring with a 40lbs bow, should I use a light spring for a 27lbs bow? Thanks for the video !
just so people know, beiters hard spring is medium, extra hard is stiff and soft is soft. It comes with medium as default.
Absolutely love your T-shirt! 🔥
Me too! I want one... NOW!!!
Plunger tension and brace height basically alter "timing" ie the position of the 2 nodal points of the arrow relative to the button - this affect clearance as they alter the timing the rear node as it passes the plunger . Plunger tension also alters how long the front 2-3" of the arrow and front node are in contact with the button. I don't understand the reference to "frequency" as there are only 2 nodal points on the shaft . Grouping is impacted by the timing of how long the arrows stays in contact. Ultra high speed video has shown that slightly stiff tension is better than weak which gives clearance issues at the nock end
Interesting..
What are your thoughts on the Wifler mp 1 barebow plunger? I now have a Gillo GYL bow. And I am getting a Zniper arrow rest. Thank you, Chief
Are the plunger tips pretty much universal? I noticed that the Teflon tip on my Decut ZX229 is wearing down quickly. Is it likely that Beiter tips, which might be easier to find, will fit other plungers?
One advantage of video is that you can also show what you are talking about.
What about plunger lengths? There are a few different options for the Beiters I see.
What do you think of magnetic plungers
i Am trying to not become tuning obsessive. I now shoot at 34- 35 pounds and tuning the bow is insane. with 730 arrows my spine should be simple and Easton charts indicate the correct arrow choice at 28.75 shafts but bare shafts will not get close to fletched, showing stiff. I tried the bolt adjustment and have reached the max for 32 pound limbs. If i try the plunger the spring tension gets so low as to be nearly full out on the medium spring. there seems to be a harmonic point where i can get great groups and a good bare shaft but it does not hold and literally 1 click in or out makes the bare shaft go left like it is too stiff a spine with my groups collapsing . Yes adding a click out shows a stiff arrow too. Change to the light spring and there is no place the bow is tuned. Going out to 55 meters and nothing shoots like a well tuned bow at 30, notwithstanding the value of practice. logically a 730 would need less tension than a 500 but trying a 600 got the same result. a real good tune at one place with 0 forgiveness and changing with distance or the weather. Sorry but even after your video and lots of arrows the setting of a plunger and lighter weights seem to garner very different results
can't anyone tell us 32 pound limbs with an xxx arrow is a medium spring between 4.8 and 5 .5 or similar? 3 years and the only consistency is change.
how does this work with someone who has a short draw? (22-1/4" at center of plunger). I have set my plunger to 5.6 with the weak spring. When I used the medium spring, my arrows would not group :(
i actually see all risers have two holes for plunger ... and what is the other holes for ? how and when to use two holes for plunger?
Hi Jake, when you say 4.5 on the AAE Gold plunger is that 4 full winds out on the macro barrel thread and .5 on the micro adjust? Or, do you always wind the AAE in all the way on the macro barrel thread and set 4.5 on the micro collar?
plz need more elebration about pluger spring tension...in 30 metere distance. wat will b tension of sring
Great thanks now what about woods with a Medium spring still be the go to ?
So if I want to increase plunger tension, i.e., resistance to pressure, is it as logical as simply increasing the number setting and vice versa to decrease pressure?
Is a medium spring okay shooting 35-36lbs on barebow?
Jake how would you set up a plunger for 25 # barebow ?
The best spring For 550numbr Easton arrows ? Medium lower hard ?
Fantastic Jake, thanks.
Excuse me, Jake, but I couldn't see what you mean with you title: "How to setup your plunger". You didn't definetly show how to setup the plunger. Unfortunetly.
I have to agree. I came looking for help with setting up my plunger and left empty handed after a 14 minute video. Jake's videos are absolutely stellar in general, but this one - not so much.
I guess the setup is about screwing and unscrewing it and make the spring more tight of loose, I have no idea if I’m right but if I am I think what he means is that everyone can have a different preference on how bouncy the spring gets and probably u need to do some shootings to test out how u like it
So if your arrow is to weak and you have reduced the pounds as much as possible how far can i go with the plunger ?
so, if am using 28lbs draw weight, should i still use the medium spring?
You forgot to mention why we need a plunger at all. Compound bows don't need them and some recurves do and some don't. It's a mystery!
To clarify: you said in general your optimal spring tension seems to be lighter with lighter draw weights? Even after controlling for arrow spine?
Also, do you recommend doing stiff plunger testing to check draw weight?
Liked and subscribed. Thanks so much...
We are having a hard time getting my arrows tuned properly. I have a short draw length my arrows are like 26" shooting Victory VAPs elite 800 spine 90 grain points only pulling at full draw between 25-26.5#. Arrows are shooting to the left when aiming at the X at 18 meters. Everything has been checked on my bow limb alignment and everything. We started messing with the plunger and I'm using the Beiter as well. The only difference we have seen is we took my clicker off and it started shooting better groups. But we also put the weaker spring in. Should I have left the medium spring in? Im a new archer anyway so not sure what to do and I am the only recurve shooter in my shop unfortunately.
And moving your sight won’t bring the groups in? Make sure you’re not aiming with your left eye. (Assuming you’re RH)
@@JakeKaminskiArchery yes RH and no usually left eye is slightly closed. I had at one point the scope housing has far to the left as I could go. I was having to shoot 3:00 in the 3 Ring just to get it to hit in the 5 ring. A indoor target. Now we have recenter the scope housing to try and figure what else it could be.
Sounds like your arrows are way too stiff.
After watching this video and your video to tighten grouping. I Robin Hood killed one of my arrows so perfectly.
Could you please do a video on "how to setup/adjust your plunger" for those of us who aren't silver medalists. Cheers
Archery Plunger - Adjustable Center Shot and Tune | Archery Basics Explained
th-cam.com/video/YgllbaWHKNQ/w-d-xo.html
@@JakeKaminskiArchery thanks!
Jake, what are your views on the Wifler plunger button as an option to the AAE?
imho the stem weight will kill forgiveness. More weight is less forgiving in my experience.
Awesome bro
I think I'm too stiff on one of my bows. The plunger tip is wearing very quickly and it leaves streaks/lines of the plunger material on the arrows.
Is there any reason for adjusting the plunger spring depending on weather conditions on a guben day? Thanks!
Imho no. Weather affects way more that has a larger affect then plunger tension.
Great Videos ... And cool TShirt 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
My arrows are not perpendicular to the target face. They are tailing to the right, is it because of weak plunger spring?
Do you shoot right or left handed. If you shoot righty, its stiff, if u shoot lefty, its soft
@@ferret1252I shoot right handed. Thanks
Check Jake's last videos. In one of them he talked about this
Awesome, this is one of the mysteries of archery that I'm still trying to figure out, so doesn't the plunger stiffness also affects the point of impact horizontally?i.e. stiffer plunger moves my POI to the left? (I'm RH) As always, the Archery community gives standing ovation to Jake!
If it is too stiff yes, but if it is tuned, the arrow will bend and straighten the arrow out(they bend while in flight, the plunger reduces it as much as possible)
Thanks for the great videos, and going metric ;-)
So what is the starting point if you draw 30lb on a 25 inch riser with medium legs?
I’d go med spring 6-8ish on a beiter. Med spring full loose on AAE
Thanks for this reply jake!
Question for youth archers. My daughter shoots light limbs with very weak arrows (15lb limbs, Medallion XR 1500 spine, 60gr point). What are your thoughts for someone like that as far as plunger tension/set up etc? Thanks again for the great videos!
I’d go med spring 6-8ish on a beiter. Med spring full loose on AAE potentially go light spring on 5ish on beiter
So I managed to get silver in men’s barebow in our Cheshire indoor championships last Sunday, was my first tournament and had equipment failures with my rest and I was moving my plunger tension constantly throughout the shoot (I have done a lot of tuning beforehand with neutral results as usual) yet I was still smacking it in the gold? It’s fucking me mentally which is a shame however I STILL can’t find ‘a spot’ in the plunger where they group more consistently- it’s really been such a confusing thing man honestly. *edit* shooting for 10 months or so (barebow) medium spring. (Just got a beiter so messing with that)
i hope you figured out already , but it could be a bad plunger.
Represent!
Finally. The sacred text I'm looking for...
Para los que no somos ingleses, hablas demasiado rápido. Gracias por tu video
jianzd plunger how to set it up
Hi Jake, I've heard Brady uses an AAE stem in a Beiter plunger.. Probably from you. How easy is this to do? I have a Beiter and would like to try it out. Thanks from UK.
Heck yes!
Hope it helps!
I love your channel as it contains so much information. I checked out your apparel and I did like them but may main reason to not buy is that on the back you have your name in a really big size. That is really a commercial mistake as I am not you so why would I have your name so big on my back. Somewhere small on the sleeve would be more appropriate.
I’m making some smaller and or available without it. Thanks for the feedback. Keep posted
Jake, thanks for another great video. Am a newbie in archery, initially I was only using a Hoyt plastic super rest w/o plunger with a 32pounds draw weight 31ish inch in draw length, 800spine arrow. After I did my bow tuning thanks to your video, I decided to use a plunger. That's where the problem starts. All my arrows will only fly to the left. No matter what adjustment I did to the plunger. Or even heavier arrow point, still my arrows fly left. Hope u could help me
I'm also a newbie, but have just been through your problem recently. I was shooting perfectly straight until one day all of my arrows started impacting right (I'm LEFT handed). I started messing with all sorts of things including the arrows, centre shot and plunger and nothing worked. I even had my centre shot way on the inside of my string with no difference at all!
The problem was me! My form had somehow changed without me noticing it. I went back to basics and "re-learned" My stance, setup, anchor, expansion and release. I paid particular attention to back tension. For the first time last week I felt proper back tension. When you feel it for the first time, you will know it! You can feel the back muscles working. Us newbies have to find these things.
Not only did this fix my problem, but I now shoot the best groups I've ever done. I hope this is some help to you.
I forgot to add... I'm shooting 32# Uukha limbs which are actually 34# on my fingers due to a 29.5" draw length. I'm using 600 spine carbon arrows with 90 grain points.
Hi Chris,
Thanks for sharing your experience. Really appreciate it.
Yes I did scrutinized my form initially. Thinking my form changes... But had the assistant coach to watch my form... All was OK..... But what the hell will try to my form training from scratch.... Thanks again chris
A lot of talking but no setting up, little screw at the back and big ring both change tension, how do you start ?
I'm working on archery content for more beginner type setup and explaining a lot more in depth of the details you are requesting. Keep posted.
Can I have that t-shirt? Great video. Thanks, Jake.
You can get one at teespring.com/stores/jakekaminski
I just bought one! Couldn't resist!!!
Originally known as the “Berger Button,” named after it inventor, The White Knight, Vic Berger.
Sorry to be a negative, but you still don't answer how to set up a plunger on an actual bow. You talk about how to adjust the plunger, not setting it up on a bow. Same with your arrow rest setup videos. You cover the most basic setups, but no details.
You forgot to actually install it on the bow
These are not needed. A waste if money. Just spend time with your bow and use the same arrows. Get an old bow and shoot off a basic shelf or from the back of your hand and practice will bring accuracy.
this guide would be better if it actually guided you into assembling your plunger. bad click bait.
Wasted 14 minutes of my time only to realize that the title has nothing to do with the video
"Its easier than you think" spends most of the time talking in circles. Be direct my ghad
I like you and your videos. But sadly this video does not help me. Sorry :/
You didn’t do anything to tell or help me set up the plunger set up. Sorry but it was not helpful. I am pissed cause the suns gonna go down and I wasted how much time
th-cam.com/video/YgllbaWHKNQ/w-d-xo.html try this newer video
Too much talking less practical demo....which i need.