Good on you mate, glad you’re keeping her & loving her. I’ve had my ‘89 since ‘95 & can’t even think about letting her go. They are just so gorgeous. Keep up the great work & she looks fantastic… though I’m not happy with the gauge cluster…🤨
Coolant light will go off once the system cools down and coolant is sucked back in from the overflow. Once that is done, you may want to pop off the radiator cap and fill it in at that point. Just needs a couple of heat/cool cycles to purge the air. I know you've done a ton of mods, but I think I would set the minimum idle while replacing the IAC. Here are the instructions I always refer to (not sure if I can paste this whole thing!) Once you have everything put together and ready, you want to set the minimum idle speed first. If your car is virgin, you will need to knock out the plug covering the idle speed set screw (it's a Torx screw right by the throttle linkage). Chances are, someone has already messed with it and knocked it out: With the IAC connected and ignition off, stick the paper clip into the diagnostic connector from "A" to "B." This grounds the diagnostic lead. Turn the ignition on without starting the engine. Wait 30 seconds. Now, with the ignition still on, disconnect the IAC connector at the IAC by pulling the electrical connector off. Remove the paper clip from the diagnostic connector. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. By "normal operating temp" I mean, "where the computer starts doing all kinds of automated stuff.", a minimum of 120 degrees. This is also known as "closed loop." It is the mode where the ECM takes Oxygen Sensor data into consideration in its calculations, and starts once the engine has warmed up slightly. To be sure that you're really in "closed loop" mode, you need to reach "normal operating temp." This pretty much assures that you're in the right mode. Of course, if you want to "see" when you're closed loop or open loop, there is a "Field Service Mode" you can put the ECM in by manipulating the Diagnostic Terminal. The flashing "check engine light" will tell you, real-time, whether you're in open or closed modes. But for the purposes of setting up the idle & TPS, just get the engine warmed up, and you'll be in the right ECM mode. The idle speed will probably be really low, and you may have to coax it with the gas pedal to keep it running for a while. If it's an automatic, set the parking brake and put it in drive. If manual, leave it in neutral. Adjust the idle speed screw to obtain 400 rpm in drive or 450 in neutral. Shut the engine off and reconnect the IAC. That's it for idle speed. Now on to the TPS: There are 3 wires stacked vertically on the TPS. You need to be able to measure voltage between the two top wires. You can either buy a special harness connector that breaks these wires out, or gently pierce the insulation of the wires with the pointy prongs on your Volt meter leads. I do the latter: Turn the ignition to the "on" position without starting the engine. Loosen the TPS Torx set screws. Set your voltmeter to a low scale DC volt setting that will accurately read less than 1 volt. Measure the voltage between the two top TPS wires. Adjust the TPS to give a voltage reading of .54 volts. Then have someone in the car floor the gas pedal (engine off, ignition on) and adjust TPS reading to 4.49 volts. This is the correct adjustment for wide open throttle (WOT). You will need to go back and forth between closed and wide open throttle to get the adjustment that will give you both numbers. There's a tolerance margin of plus/minus .075 readings. If you can't get these figures then it is time to replace the TPS. The TPS is held in place by two Torx screws. These screws go through slotted holes in the TPS. You adjust the TPS by loosening the two screws and rotating the TPS in these slotted holes. Once your voltage reading is correct, you snug up the two screws and re-check the voltage (just in case the TPS position shifted when you snugged the screws up). On the back side of the TPS, there is a little lever arm that rests against a tang on the throttle shaft. Just make sure you get these tangs resting against each other correctly (it's pretty obvious how they have to be) when you install the TPS to the TB.
On the 92 to 94 hook up digital voltmeter to the black and the dark blue wire on TPS. Ignition on engine off voltage reading should be in the range of .33-.93 volts. (normal reading is .70-.72 at closed throttle. If reading is outside specifications loosen TPS screws with torx #25 and move sensor to adjust to specifications. Due to the 92 to 94 TPS being a mainly sealed unit, you will not be able to adjust it more then one tenth of a volt. Tighten screws and recheck reading. If reading is not within specs, replace the TPS. For about ~$12.00 Mid-America sells a TPS test harness for the 85-91 and the 92-96 Vette. Makes the adjustment much easier. A good indication that the TPS is out of adjustment is a 15 to 20 degree increase in coolant temp. Another indication that it is out is the cars exhaust sound. When the TPS is set up properly the exhaust sound seams to come from the rear of the car, when it is off base it seems to come from the front of the car. The car sounds like it has more power because there is more noise, but in reality it is slower. Tighten the Torx set screws and recheck the voltage. Turn ignition off. You should now be in perfect adjustment on idle speed and TPS output. Start the engine. It may take it a few seconds to "catch on" to its new settings. You will most likely notice an immediate improvement in idle quality and throttle response.
Hello Hank, I had it made a few years ago by Tom Jasper out of Texas, he no longer makes them. Good news is, there's a post in the C4 Corvette Discussion section of the Corvette Forum about someone fabricating them again. Go have a look and see if you can have one made, Good luck and thank you!
What brand of headers are those? Oh damn!! That value is absolutely covered in there!!! Holyshit!!! Lol.... I definitely know how you feel! I have a 92 I've only had it for 2 years now but I'll die with this car!! I'll never get rid of it!!
@magoostoybox9643 did you put those in yourself? If so how bad was it? Lol I put some shorties on only because I didn't want to modify the exhaust system I just bought! But now I need some better headers!! And I want to ditch the cats! They are good cats actually they are secondary cats from a C7.
@@C4VETTELT1 I had an exhaust shop install them. They made a custom Y Pipe for them as well as the rest of my exhaust. The Hooker Y Pipe is junk and a lot of people had problems with them.
@@C4VETTELT1 OMG, You're right...I was thinking of my old exhaust set up before this Motor, D'oh! lol! There is no Y-Pipe on this, Just straight Duels off the Headers (3") out to MagnaFlow Mufflers.
Good on you mate, glad you’re keeping her & loving her. I’ve had my ‘89 since ‘95 & can’t even think about letting her go. They are just so gorgeous. Keep up the great work & she looks fantastic… though I’m not happy with the gauge cluster…🤨
Coolant light will go off once the system cools down and coolant is sucked back in from the overflow. Once that is done, you may want to pop off the radiator cap and fill it in at that point. Just needs a couple of heat/cool cycles to purge the air.
I know you've done a ton of mods, but I think I would set the minimum idle while replacing the IAC. Here are the instructions I always refer to (not sure if I can paste this whole thing!)
Once you have everything put together and ready, you want to set the minimum idle speed first. If your car is virgin, you will need to knock out the plug covering the idle speed set screw (it's a Torx screw right by the throttle linkage). Chances are, someone has already messed with it and knocked it out:
With the IAC connected and ignition off, stick the paper clip into the diagnostic connector from "A" to "B." This grounds the diagnostic lead.
Turn the ignition on without starting the engine. Wait 30 seconds. Now, with the ignition still on, disconnect the IAC connector at the IAC by pulling the electrical connector off.
Remove the paper clip from the diagnostic connector. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. By "normal operating temp" I mean, "where the computer starts doing all kinds of automated stuff.", a minimum of 120 degrees. This is also known as "closed loop." It is the mode where the ECM takes Oxygen Sensor data into consideration in its calculations, and starts once the engine has warmed up slightly. To be sure that you're really in "closed loop" mode, you need to reach "normal operating temp." This pretty much assures that you're in the right mode. Of course, if you want to "see" when you're closed loop or open loop, there is a "Field Service Mode" you can put the ECM in by manipulating the Diagnostic Terminal. The flashing "check engine light" will tell you, real-time, whether you're in open or closed modes. But for the purposes of setting up the idle & TPS, just get the engine warmed up, and you'll be in the right ECM mode. The idle speed will probably be really low, and you may have to coax it with the gas pedal to keep it running for a while.
If it's an automatic, set the parking brake and put it in drive. If manual, leave it in neutral.
Adjust the idle speed screw to obtain 400 rpm in drive or 450 in neutral.
Shut the engine off and reconnect the IAC.
That's it for idle speed. Now on to the TPS:
There are 3 wires stacked vertically on the TPS. You need to be able to measure voltage between the two top wires. You can either buy a special harness connector that breaks these wires out, or gently pierce the insulation of the wires with the pointy prongs on your Volt meter leads. I do the latter:
Turn the ignition to the "on" position without starting the engine.
Loosen the TPS Torx set screws.
Set your voltmeter to a low scale DC volt setting that will accurately read less than 1 volt.
Measure the voltage between the two top TPS wires.
Adjust the TPS to give a voltage reading of .54 volts. Then have someone in the car floor the gas pedal (engine off, ignition on) and adjust TPS reading to 4.49 volts. This is the correct adjustment for wide open throttle (WOT). You will need to go back and forth between closed and wide open throttle to get the adjustment that will give you both numbers. There's a tolerance margin of plus/minus .075 readings. If you can't get these figures then it is time to replace the TPS.
The TPS is held in place by two Torx screws. These screws go through slotted holes in the TPS. You adjust the TPS by loosening the two screws and rotating the TPS in these slotted holes. Once your voltage reading is correct, you snug up the two screws and re-check the voltage (just in case the TPS position shifted when you snugged the screws up). On the back side of the TPS, there is a little lever arm that rests against a tang on the throttle shaft. Just make sure you get these tangs resting against each
other correctly (it's pretty obvious how they have to be) when you install the TPS to the TB.
On the 92 to 94 hook up digital voltmeter to the black and the dark blue wire on TPS. Ignition on engine off voltage reading should be in the range of .33-.93 volts. (normal reading is .70-.72 at closed throttle. If reading is outside specifications loosen TPS screws with torx #25 and move sensor to adjust to specifications. Due to the 92 to 94 TPS being a mainly sealed unit, you will not be able to adjust it more then one tenth of a volt. Tighten screws and recheck reading. If reading is not within specs,
replace the TPS. For about ~$12.00 Mid-America sells a TPS test harness for the 85-91 and the 92-96 Vette. Makes the adjustment much easier.
A good indication that the TPS is out of adjustment is a 15 to 20 degree increase in coolant temp. Another indication that it is out is the cars exhaust sound. When the TPS is set up properly the exhaust sound seams to come from the rear of the car, when it is off base it seems to come from the front of the car. The car sounds like it has more power because there is more noise, but in reality it is slower.
Tighten the Torx set screws and recheck the voltage.
Turn ignition off.
You should now be in perfect adjustment on idle speed and TPS output. Start the engine. It may take it a few seconds to "catch on" to its new settings. You will most likely notice an immediate improvement in idle quality and throttle response.
@@larrybud WOW! Thank you for all this info, extremely helpful! 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
Is that Targa brace still available somewhere? Beautiful ride btw
Hello Hank, I had it made a few years ago by Tom Jasper out of Texas, he no longer makes them.
Good news is, there's a post in the C4 Corvette Discussion section of the Corvette Forum about someone fabricating them again.
Go have a look and see if you can have one made, Good luck and thank you!
I don't see a MAF sensor, how did you eliminate it to not throw a CEL.
What brand of headers are those? Oh damn!! That value is absolutely covered in there!!! Holyshit!!! Lol.... I definitely know how you feel! I have a 92 I've only had it for 2 years now but I'll die with this car!! I'll never get rid of it!!
Really appreciate the kind words!
The Headers are Hooker Long tubes, thanks again!
@magoostoybox9643 did you put those in yourself? If so how bad was it? Lol I put some shorties on only because I didn't want to modify the exhaust system I just bought! But now I need some better headers!! And I want to ditch the cats! They are good cats actually they are secondary cats from a C7.
@@C4VETTELT1 I had an exhaust shop install them. They made a custom Y Pipe for them as well as the rest of my exhaust.
The Hooker Y Pipe is junk and a lot of people had problems with them.
@@magoostoybox9643 I'm surprised you didn't go true duel.
@@C4VETTELT1 OMG, You're right...I was thinking of my old exhaust set up before this Motor, D'oh! lol!
There is no Y-Pipe on this, Just straight Duels off the Headers (3") out to MagnaFlow Mufflers.
I believe the IAC needs to be set at 1 1/8 of and inch from the threaded base to the bottom of the pinical. That's for a 86 stock TPI.
What wheels are those?? It looks great
I really like your instruments..where did you get them and how hard where they to install
Also, I see your MAF sensor isnt like stock. Did you do a MAF swap? Which MAF tube did you switch it to?
Very nice car need help with my 88 vett looking for a helo bar for my 88 I see you have one can you help Richard please let me know thanks.
What ecm are you using
BigStuff 3