I have to replace my axle too as I accidentally burned a hole in my CV boot whilst replacing lower control arm. Thank you for the specs and detailed instructions. I have confidence to perform the work myself (as long as a torch is not involved lol)
I was barely able to slip the axle splines out of the hub WITHOUT undoing the steering tie-rod. I only unbolted the strut. One less thing to have to undo and re-attach. Your mileage may vary. Great video and great channel!!!
Another great video Mr. Subaru! 2months ago I upgraded from an 05 to an 11...just in time for you to get yours. You taught me a lot on my 05 can’t wait to learn more.
Such a great video. Some comments from just finishing the job: buy a Subaru axle, the one I got on Amazon for $95 would not insert all the way into the transaxle, the $300 one from local Subaru dealer snapped right in; vid makes it look easy to remove rotor for me had to work back and forth pulling it would move just a smidge just keep going eventually comes off; drop the ball joint out of the way and twist the hub assembly hard right turn to get the axle out of the hub and keep the loose axle to the rear of the hub for the next removal step; it wasn’t easy to line up the caliper when reinstalling bolts vid makes it look easy. Axle nut was another $10 from Sub dealer not included with new axle.
always a good idea to pull off wheel speed sensor for good cause. great. thanks for the video. wasn't sure if the 2014 had the same axle design as the 2006
It seems there is a lack of innovations related to the suspension of these cars. I am driving a 2005 Outback and the suspension and the brake calipers are absolutely the same. What to say... Perfection doesn't need improvement :x
Brady Hancock, took me about 40 minutes and everything went straight forward. The video covers all the steps necessary. The only issue I have now is the remanufactured axle from Subaru has the classic knocking noise of a bad CV joint. So now I get to deal with that and do this all over again!
So as a follow up... Make sure you triple check everything is tight when it goes back together. 3 weeks later I'm driving in a town with shitty roads and my car starts clunking. I thought it was a suspension problem but couldn't see anything wrong. Turns out the top 17mm bolt fell out on the highway! Luckily it was the top so I was ok going forwards. I only figured it out when I tried to reverse and it was binding up. The caliper was swinging out and catching on the inside of the wheel. No damage that I can see. Gonna have a good look tomorrow lol
Awesome video! I plan to change my front axle (both sides) because I hear a clunking noise when I turn. Do you recommend I do both sides? Also is this the same process for a 2015 Outback 2.5 cvt ? Please keep making more videos! These are absolutely brilliant! I just wish I could do it nearly as quickly ... no power tools and of course no lift.
I just did my 2010 2.5 front right cv shaft and i still get a slight clunk when turning. It was an oem unit and i took my time to do it properly could it be the ball joint or steering arm joint and if so how do i check it do you have a video on this? Any ither spot that can do it. I just had whole front end done by suspension specialist with shock and strut bearings etc and many rubbers replaced too.
i want to thank you for the info. it helped to visualize once i was getting ready to fix the axles of my 02 subaru outback H6 3.0 ll bean i'm having an issue i wish you could check my post and tell me what you think. i didn't post the forum link because i didn't want my post to not get through. if you would like to see my post let me know ill send my link
I have a question on regards when I removed the outer tie rod off the spindle. I used ball joint remover and accidental squeezed out a little grease from the outer tie rod ball joint. The boot is still fine on the ball joint is still fine. Did I break the seal for the ball joint on the tie rod? or is that a normal loose fitting on the top of the bolt area. If it's not normal. Then should I replace the outer tie rod? Anyway, I got the CV axle replaced fine.
I have a 5th gen 2018 3.6r outback. I put on a 2 inch lift from ADF and now while making right turns it makes a clicking noise. How do I tell which axel needs replacement?
@MrSubaru1387 I am stuck getting the axle off with the pry bar. I have been prying at it for about an hour now and no luck. Any ideas why it isn’t disconnecting?
Hey MrSubaru, is the CV Axle replacement on the REAR the same as the front on these Gen4 OutBacks ? I'm referring specifically to the removal/insertion into the REAR DIFF (vs. the Front on this Vid). Just gently use a PryBar to remove it from the Diff ? Is that Service Tool (in the FSM) essentially the same thing? But I have a 2.5 though, not the 3.6 that you used to have, does that matter either? Thanks !! Chris
Excellent video, the only problem I'm having is separating the wheel hub and the cv axle. I've tried a puller and a hammer, lots of pb blaster no luck whatsoever Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
i found a sitch with my subaru in january and a few thousand dollars later it works ok again, but i've had the wheel bearing replaced 3 or 4 times now. do you think its junk bearings from autozone or could my axle be bent? i've replaced my brakes and rotors about a thousand miles ago and at 60-80mph it vibrates very slightly, except when putting on the brakes the steering wheel shakes like crazy.
Shaking steering wheel when braking indicates warped brake rotors, most of the time. That said, it could be play in the tie rods, rack, or ball joints. Could also be bad struts.
I’m hearing a hum on the same wheel I just did a wheel bearing on, would the CV axle make a hm if it were also bad? I inspected it while I was down there, no cracks to be found. I am a little perplexed.
Another great demo!! Our 2017 3.6R Outback is still under the 100K mile warranty plan... :) BTW, what gloves are you wearing? Any of the 'rubber' gloves I try always fail almost immediately when actually using them.
Mark the orientation or rotation of the bolt with a paint marker or something so it is lined up the same going in as it came out. The camber is set with an offset cam so if the bolt is rotated it will mess up the wheels camber (leaning in and out).
Mr. Subaru, my 2008 legacy runs incredibly smooth on highway no vibration, or shaking of steering wheel. When I’m on a grooved road like the ones being prepped for paving, at 35-40 MPH my steering wheel starts to shake. It can’t be Tires or alignment, is that rack and pinion, tierod ends? Wouldn’t it do it at high speeds as well? I’m stumped.
The car itself does not shake just hums, it’s the steering wheel that wobbles like I’m getting some feedback of a tired suspension part. Thanks, I’ll keep an eye on it to see if there is something getting loose, car has 120,000. I just purchased it a couple of months ago and I’m using your videos to give myself a reference point of PM work done to the car. As always thank you for great videos.
My mechanic who does the bigger jobs, told me the rack and pinion will need to be replaced in about a years time, one of the lines has a small leak in it. I will bring it back to him and see what he says about that symptom. Manual transmission/differential fluid to be done tomorrow.
I have a 2012 Subaru Outback 3.6 limited . Has a vibration problem when accelerating at 40, 60 and 80. Vibration stops when I decelerate. I think it might be this.
Mr subaru thanks for your great videos. i just discovered cv boot broken and changed axle on my 2010 3.6r. 180k miles. had someone do it for me then did an alignment. well now when i turn right, i hear a slight clunk or play then the car drifts right. then i made a left u-turn and there is that slight clunk and the car drifts left slightly. i dont think it has anything to do with the axle. worried the front end wasnt bolted tightly to the chassis..! just this morning i took to mechanic to tighten and he found nothing wrong. have you heard of this? you have save me and my subaru cult buddies tons, thanks
Sounds like the axle is bad or not fully seated in the front differential. Usually a bad axle will click/clunk when turning tightly. Did they replace the axle or just put a new boot on it?
@@MrSubaru1387 whole new axle but not oem. mistake on my part to allow it but couldnt get new oem for a few days. tech said he tightened everything and could not id the clicking or trace it to the axle. clicking seems most prominent when i go forward, brake hard. go reverse, brake hard...vice versa. alternating forward backward creates the clicking most prominently, but when i made uturn last week it made a thunk and the steering continued to veer like there was friction returning to center. tech said it might be steering drag causing but insists not the axle and cant id the problem. did alignment right after axle- would and alignment ever add friction to the steering? i drove with windows down and dont hear noises from around the front new axle. does this make sense and is there a diy to adjust steering drag? my last question and thanks for your time
Hey have an 08 spec b in Utah my check engine light will come on, shut down cruise control and my option to switch between standard sport sharp and intelligent won't work also when it happens I've tried hooking up a obd tool and it just won't connect only when this happens anything you know of that I can just fix?
When the CEL is on, cruise deactivates, and the selectibility also deactivates. You need to scan the codes. If the scan tool isn't powering on or communicating, you probably have a blown fuse for the cigarette lighter/12v outlet. This fuse powers the diagnostic port.
Were your joints clicking? I noticed my cv boots have started flinging grease around but I cant find a split in the boot. Is it okay to just replace the boots and regrease if theres no clicking?
I've never re-booted an axle. Always just replaced it. The aggravation of re-booting and greasing isn't worth the hassle to me. Rather throw in an axle and ride.
Hey I had a little bit of oil from the transmission come out when I pulled the axle. Car was jacked up past level in the front. Is that ok or should I be worried about the transmission being low now? (Manual)
Great video! Also what is the name or tool number for the needle nose pliers you were using? I've tried to look it up on the website and couldn't find them :/.
So I'm replacing both front axles on my 14 legacy 2.5 and I noticed there are no front sway bar links on either side. Is this safe? I've been driving around since Nov 2019 like this and I always felt the car was, well swaying a bit in turns.
As much as I love my Subaru, it is pretty sad that the CV axles/boots fail prematurely. Obviously they aren’t sourcing the best parts and materials for the job. Toyota’s are objectively more reliable.
Does the Oil Seal between where the CV Axle and Rear Diff typically get replaced when doing this job? I know the FSM states to replace, but I always like to hear "real world" advice. The Oil Seal actually appears to resemble a cam/crank seal, is it difficult to remove and install? Thanks :)
The FB25B isn't known for headgasket issues. They are known for oil consumption issues though. A CV axle can last 10 miles or 200,000 miles. Impossible to estimate.
I have to replace my axle too as I accidentally burned a hole in my CV boot whilst replacing lower control arm. Thank you for the specs and detailed instructions. I have confidence to perform the work myself (as long as a torch is not involved lol)
Lol that’s funny I burned my boot taking off my front sway bar
I like the little tric with dal pin in the rotor vent to hold in place much better than the pry bar on the wheel studs. Good work
I was barely able to slip the axle splines out of the hub WITHOUT undoing the steering tie-rod. I only unbolted the strut. One less thing to have to undo and re-attach. Your mileage may vary. Great video and great channel!!!
Another great video Mr. Subaru! 2months ago I upgraded from an 05 to an 11...just in time for you to get yours. You taught me a lot on my 05 can’t wait to learn more.
Thank you. Glad you enjoy the videos. 👍🏻 Congrats on the upgrade.
Great video. Excellent detail. The bugs provide all the narration necessary.
Such a great video. Some comments from just finishing the job: buy a Subaru axle, the one I got on Amazon for $95 would not insert all the way into the transaxle, the $300 one from local Subaru dealer snapped right in; vid makes it look easy to remove rotor for me had to work back and forth pulling it would move just a smidge just keep going eventually comes off; drop the ball joint out of the way and twist the hub assembly hard right turn to get the axle out of the hub and keep the loose axle to the rear of the hub for the next removal step; it wasn’t easy to line up the caliper when reinstalling bolts vid makes it look easy. Axle nut was another $10 from Sub dealer not included with new axle.
Once again an awesome, to the point, no blah blah very useful repair video!
always a good idea to pull off wheel speed sensor for good cause. great. thanks for the video. wasn't sure if the 2014 had the same axle design as the 2006
You're welcome. 👍🏻
I'm so glad you came out with this video, I just found out I have to do it to mine. Thank you so much!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Brother, super helpful! Love the calm methodical method, keep on keeping on.
Found the problem, front right caliper was intermittently freezing.
Thanks again for your help.
Glad you figured it out.
Mr. Subaru is GOOD. I’m would hire him immediately.
changed the part today and it went smooth just like the video ! thnx again buddy!
Thanks for the great video- I just used it to change out my 2018 front axles and the process was the same
Thanks for this comment. I have to do a 2016 and was wondering…
It seems there is a lack of innovations related to the suspension of these cars. I am driving a 2005 Outback and the suspension and the brake calipers are absolutely the same. What to say... Perfection doesn't need improvement :x
AWESOME! thank you for sharing love that there's no bla bla bla ..
Awesome video, thanks! My front passenger side Axle is starting to grab when I turn, I will be doing this soon.
straight to the point, And very Detailed... Well Done!!!
Thanks for the video! Just switched out my front passenger side joint. Went swimmingly!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Thanks for the video! Just completed the axle swap on a 2014 Outback 2.5. Easy!
You're welcome 👍🏻
How long did it take you and did you run into any issues?
Brady Hancock, took me about 40 minutes and everything went straight forward. The video covers all the steps necessary. The only issue I have now is the remanufactured axle from Subaru has the classic knocking noise of a bad CV joint. So now I get to deal with that and do this all over again!
Great video! I'm doing this on my 2010 outback today, so this is perfect.
So as a follow up... Make sure you triple check everything is tight when it goes back together. 3 weeks later I'm driving in a town with shitty roads and my car starts clunking. I thought it was a suspension problem but couldn't see anything wrong. Turns out the top 17mm bolt fell out on the highway! Luckily it was the top so I was ok going forwards. I only figured it out when I tried to reverse and it was binding up. The caliper was swinging out and catching on the inside of the wheel. No damage that I can see. Gonna have a good look tomorrow lol
Thank You very much-wish me luck but with your video I think I can do it- Matt McCarty
You got lucky with that axel slipping out of the hub
Wow ! Clear, sharp and really good view. Thanks for the great video !
Thank you. You're welcome. 👍🏻
Excellent video. Thanks brother! 👍
Sweet and simple, I think I could do this myself. What tools were needed? While I’m doing this I have to do the control arm as well.
Very useful video 👍! Thank you very much for the lesson!
Awesome video! I plan to change my front axle (both sides) because I hear a clunking noise when I turn. Do you recommend I do both sides? Also is this the same process for a 2015 Outback 2.5 cvt ? Please keep making more videos! These are absolutely brilliant! I just wish I could do it nearly as quickly ... no power tools and of course no lift.
wow! You are like a surgeon!
I just did my 2010 2.5 front right cv shaft and i still get a slight clunk when turning. It was an oem unit and i took my time to do it properly could it be the ball joint or steering arm joint and if so how do i check it do you have a video on this? Any ither spot that can do it. I just had whole front end done by suspension specialist with shock and strut bearings etc and many rubbers replaced too.
Thanks, brother!
i want to thank you for the info. it helped to visualize once i was getting ready to fix the axles of my 02 subaru outback H6 3.0 ll bean i'm having an issue i wish you could check my post and tell me what you think. i didn't post the forum link because i didn't want my post to not get through. if you would like to see my post let me know ill send my link
Great video helped alot
Hey, what would you recommend if the axle is stuck in the hub possibly due to rust? Tried using a hammer but there was little or no movement.
I am suspecting a detailed front struts mount video in the near future 🤞🤘
Thank you, very helpful. Doug
Nice Video! keep em coming!
Thanks!
I have a question on regards when I removed the outer tie rod off the spindle. I used ball joint remover and accidental squeezed out a little grease from the outer tie rod ball joint. The boot is still fine on the ball joint is still fine. Did I break the seal for the ball joint on the tie rod? or is that a normal loose fitting on the top of the bolt area. If it's not normal. Then should I replace the outer tie rod? Anyway, I got the CV axle replaced fine.
I have a 5th gen 2018 3.6r outback. I put on a 2 inch lift from ADF and now while making right turns it makes a clicking noise. How do I tell which axel needs replacement?
Thanks for the vid, convinced me to do my own now. Do you think this will be almost an identical process for a 2016 outback?
Should be the same process.
Great video sir, it was very helpful. I have a 2016 outback and it clicks clunks when turning. Is that sign of a bad cv axle? Thanks again
It is. Usually the only sign, aside from vibrations in motion.
Same here. 2016 with 104k and it started clicking a few days ago :(
Thanks!
Thank You!
great vid thank you!
Thx for the vid, quick question...thou... do we have to change to seal or do they rarely go out? Thx !
Hi, would this procedure work for a 2012 Impreza hatchback? Great video.
Nearly identical.
How badly affected are the CV axles on the Outback after a 2 in lift? Is there anyway to lessen the damage if so?
I have the LP adventure 2" on 2017 outback I can tell you 100% you will be replacing CV every 2 years
Just great
@MrSubaru1387 I am stuck getting the axle off with the pry bar. I have been prying at it for about an hour now and no luck. Any ideas why it isn’t disconnecting?
Did you ever resolve the issue? Dealing with the exact same thing on my car.
@@zanytv4356 I remember I got it out but don’t remember what I did different.
What size socket is that CV nut? Thanks and great videos!
Would the same process apply for the 2.5i models?
Is the procedure the same as this with a 2015 Outback? 2.5 if that matters.
Hey MrSubaru, is the CV Axle replacement on the REAR the same as the front on these Gen4 OutBacks ? I'm referring specifically to the removal/insertion into the REAR DIFF (vs. the Front on this Vid). Just gently use a PryBar to remove it from the Diff ? Is that Service Tool (in the FSM) essentially the same thing? But I have a 2.5 though, not the 3.6 that you used to have, does that matter either? Thanks !! Chris
Correct. Pops out of the diff with a prybar.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks !!!
I saw the box read "reman". Do you find a difference between reman and brand new assuming both are Subaru?
Is it normal for these to fail at 104k? One of mine is starting to click. Had a 95 Ssturn Sl2 and they last 265k when my daughter totalled it.
So I just pryed my axle out and dif fluid came out is that normal ?
@4:31 I'm not clear what is meant by Mark the upper camber bolt to the strut?
Same. Can anyone elucidate this? I have to do this repair soon myself
Would I need to perform a realignment after on a 2015 CV joint replacement?
Yes.
Excellent video, the only problem I'm having is separating the wheel hub and the cv axle. I've tried a puller and a hammer, lots of pb blaster no luck whatsoever Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I had to hammer and chisel to separate the 2.
Rotary hammer did not even break mine loose, too much rust in the midwest, I ended up replace entire steering knuckle.
i found a sitch with my subaru in january and a few thousand dollars later it works ok again, but i've had the wheel bearing replaced 3 or 4 times now. do you think its junk bearings from autozone or could my axle be bent? i've replaced my brakes and rotors about a thousand miles ago and at 60-80mph it vibrates very slightly, except when putting on the brakes the steering wheel shakes like crazy.
Shaking steering wheel when braking indicates warped brake rotors, most of the time. That said, it could be play in the tie rods, rack, or ball joints. Could also be bad struts.
I’m hearing a hum on the same wheel I just did a wheel bearing on, would the CV axle make a hm if it were also bad? I inspected it while I was down there, no cracks to be found. I am a little perplexed.
Rotate tires and see if it follows the tire
Another great demo!! Our 2017 3.6R Outback is still under the 100K mile warranty plan... :) BTW, what gloves are you wearing? Any of the 'rubber' gloves I try always fail almost immediately when actually using them.
These are AstroGrip powder free nitrile gloves. Made by SAS.
Can someone explain what he means by marking the upper camber bolt. Where exactly am I marking this and why? Thank you for the help on this.
Mark the orientation or rotation of the bolt with a paint marker or something so it is lined up the same going in as it came out. The camber is set with an offset cam so if the bolt is rotated it will mess up the wheels camber (leaning in and out).
So would it be the same with a 2015 legacy 2.5?
Is it worth getting a new boot for the old axles for spares? Or can u get a core charge back?
Yea, Subaru charges a $45 core for the reman axle, so returned it. That said, I have a pile of Subaru axles in my shop. 12 or so last I counted. Haha.
Mr. Subaru, my 2008 legacy runs incredibly smooth on highway no vibration, or shaking of steering wheel.
When I’m on a grooved road like the ones being prepped for paving, at 35-40 MPH my steering wheel starts to shake.
It can’t be Tires or alignment, is that rack and pinion, tierod ends? Wouldn’t it do it at high speeds as well?
I’m stumped.
Ummmm. Kind of normal to get a shake when driving on a grooved up road I'd think.
The car itself does not shake just hums, it’s the steering wheel that wobbles like I’m getting some feedback of a tired suspension part. Thanks, I’ll keep an eye on it to see if there is something getting loose, car has 120,000. I just purchased it a couple of months ago and I’m using your videos to give myself a reference point of PM work done to the car.
As always thank you for great videos.
You're welcome. Hopefully it's nothing. Give the suspension/steering a once over though.
My mechanic who does the bigger jobs, told me the rack and pinion will need to be replaced in about a years time, one of the lines has a small leak in it. I will bring it back to him and see what he says about that symptom.
Manual transmission/differential fluid to be done tomorrow.
Hello me I have 2011 Subaru I changed cv axel to my car after the installed everything I drive my car in seend me code p0500 what I need to do
I have a 2012 Subaru Outback 3.6 limited . Has a vibration problem when accelerating at 40, 60 and 80. Vibration stops when I decelerate. I think it might be this.
Steven did you figure out that vibration problem? I have a similar problem with my 2010 Outback . Thanks!
@@thomasthomasino6157 I did a transmission fluid change and differential oil change. Ever since then I haven’t had any more vibration.
Mr subaru thanks for your great videos. i just discovered cv boot broken and changed axle on my 2010 3.6r. 180k miles. had someone do it for me then did an alignment. well now when i turn right, i hear a slight clunk or play then the car drifts right. then i made a left u-turn and there is that slight clunk and the car drifts left slightly. i dont think it has anything to do with the axle. worried the front end wasnt bolted tightly to the chassis..! just this morning i took to mechanic to tighten and he found nothing wrong. have you heard of this? you have save me and my subaru cult buddies tons, thanks
Sounds like the axle is bad or not fully seated in the front differential. Usually a bad axle will click/clunk when turning tightly. Did they replace the axle or just put a new boot on it?
@@MrSubaru1387 whole new axle but not oem. mistake on my part to allow it but couldnt get new oem for a few days. tech said he tightened everything and could not id the clicking or trace it to the axle. clicking seems most prominent when i go forward, brake hard. go reverse, brake hard...vice versa. alternating forward backward creates the clicking most prominently, but when i made uturn last week it made a thunk and the steering continued to veer like there was friction returning to center. tech said it might be steering drag causing but insists not the axle and cant id the problem. did alignment right after axle- would and alignment ever add friction to the steering? i drove with windows down and dont hear noises from around the front new axle. does this make sense and is there a diy to adjust steering drag? my last question and thanks for your time
@@macdean I've seen issues before with aftermarket axles. Either being too short, too long, or the range of movement being lesser/stiffer than oe.
Hey have an 08 spec b in Utah my check engine light will come on, shut down cruise control and my option to switch between standard sport sharp and intelligent won't work also when it happens I've tried hooking up a obd tool and it just won't connect only when this happens anything you know of that I can just fix?
When the CEL is on, cruise deactivates, and the selectibility also deactivates. You need to scan the codes. If the scan tool isn't powering on or communicating, you probably have a blown fuse for the cigarette lighter/12v outlet. This fuse powers the diagnostic port.
MrSubaru1387 but it randomly shuts off the cel and Everything is good for a while again
Codes will still be saved in the history.
MrSubaru1387 will autozone be able to pull the history of codes or take it to a shop?
Code reader may or may not be able to. Depends on what they have really.
Were your joints clicking? I noticed my cv boots have started flinging grease around but I cant find a split in the boot. Is it okay to just replace the boots and regrease if theres no clicking?
I've never re-booted an axle. Always just replaced it. The aggravation of re-booting and greasing isn't worth the hassle to me. Rather throw in an axle and ride.
MrSubaru1387 I guess so. It's more just a boot and grease is like 10% the cost of an axle
Finding the boot is going to be the issue. Disassembling the axle is a bit of a pain as well.
Hey I had a little bit of oil from the transmission come out when I pulled the axle. Car was jacked up past level in the front. Is that ok or should I be worried about the transmission being low now? (Manual)
Just check the fluid level and top it up if needed. 75W-90 gear oil. Dipstick on the right side of the transmission.
Ok thank you!
Great video! Also what is the name or tool number for the needle nose pliers you were using? I've tried to look it up on the website and couldn't find them :/.
Snap-on 196ANCF store.snapon.com/Needle-Nose-Talon-Grip-trade-Long-Nose-Pliers-with-Cutter-and-Fastener-Turning-Jaw-P873228.aspx
MrSubaru1387 thanks!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
So I'm replacing both front axles on my 14 legacy 2.5 and I noticed there are no front sway bar links on either side. Is this safe? I've been driving around since Nov 2019 like this and I always felt the car was, well swaying a bit in turns.
That's... Concerning...
@@MrSubaru1387 thought as much. Overnighting some new ones now lol
Is it the same way as for 05 subie CV axle replacement..
Basically.
As much as I love my Subaru, it is pretty sad that the CV axles/boots fail prematurely. Obviously they aren’t sourcing the best parts and materials for the job. Toyota’s are objectively more reliable.
It didn't fail. It was punctured or cut by something.
Do you have to take off the caliper and rotor?
No. Showing on video.
Does the Oil Seal between where the CV Axle and Rear Diff typically get replaced when doing this job? I know the FSM states to replace, but I always like to hear "real world" advice. The Oil Seal actually appears to resemble a cam/crank seal, is it difficult to remove and install? Thanks :)
Will a 2012 Outback be similar??
Same procedure 2010-2014.
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you Mr. Subaru.
@@joesantos7196 you're welcome. 👍🏻
hey buddy, is there another way to contact you? im having a terrible time bleeding the air from cooling system.
MrSubaru1387@gmail.com
ok, thanks. i think i finally got it.
Does a 2012 Outback 2.5i CVT have the head gasket issue and what is the lifespan of a CV axle?
The FB25B isn't known for headgasket issues. They are known for oil consumption issues though. A CV axle can last 10 miles or 200,000 miles. Impossible to estimate.
MrSubaru1387 Yeah I just checked again I have the EJ253 in the Outback. I heard that early FB's had an oil consumption problem.
2012 Outback should be an FB. Thought 2011 was the last year of the EJ. Perhaps I'm wrong.
MrSubaru1387 It's okay 2010 to 2012 was last years for the EJ's. FB's are 2013 and newer.
Guess I was thinking about the Forester. They got the FB before the Outback.
Ok no narrations in the video is creepy! You should sing to ME or something
No more pin in the newer ones. Those are annoying.
*torques wheels to 107 ft lbs*
*trollface*
cottonzway where did you get that torque spec? Steel or aluminum wheel?
Thanks!
Thank You!