From what I've read, the letting it set step is a total myth. There are two reasons for this. One is that you want to abraid the wax so it gets impacted into the wood and not left atop of the wood. Next, waxes used in woodworking generally "dry" quite hard. They are only soft until the solvents evaporate. When it dries hard, it is more difficult to polish off, and while hard to see with the naked eye, too much wax will be left behind. Wax build up is susceptible to dirt accumulation, but for table tops, even worse, they can have a nasty ring for fron hot/cold items left on top of them. Therefore, it's best to scrub it in and remove the excess before it dries, just like with any finish. The key is to avoid heating the wax, which may leave streaks or may cause it to prematurely dry out. That is one reason why brushes and 0000 steel wool (od synthetics) are a common method of applying wax. They are a fine abrasive and they don't produce heat like sandpaper or a rag may. When using a cloth don't rub too much in the same place, but move around the surface and come back to avoid overheating.
I turned my first bowl last week and tried a few finishes on scrap portions of the timber. All the oils made the walnut too dark and I wanted the grain to show and make it only slightly darker. Bowling Alley wax, same a furnature wax, was the answer. Three coats hand rubbed over two days gave a nice slight satin gloss. Super shiny gloss was not wanted. The only thing that is supposed to be shinny is autos, silver, and chrome items in my opinion.
100% side with you, currently finishing a kitchen table with beeswax and its slowly starting to form a nice protective surface, satin sheen catches the grain so well!
thank you so much! stripped old tables and don't want polyurethane finish. What is the brand of wax you are using and secondly what is best way to remove and reapply if necessary?.
This might be a dumb question but if I use this wax to finish my bed frame, dining table, etc does the wax rub off and slowly stain my mattress/clothes/tablecloth? Or is it permanently solid or embedded in the wood?
Sherrie The softer the wax product the easier to apply but this also means a lot of solvent generally. However after the solvent evaporates the harness of the wax film will vary with the type of wax . Beeswax is softer than carnauba as an example. If you want to avoid the solvent all together then purchase pure wax and soften or melt in a double boiler. Hope this helps.
The lightest piece of cherry iv seen so far, iv just finished a project mainly cherry and I wanted it to be near as light as your piece there, a lot of it was previously stained and lacquered ( reclaimed from prev life and saved ) so iv sanded back those which face edge were used and which cut and planed. There is a difference in my planed to just sanded as the stain goes fairly deep but in all it was always dark compared to your bit.... in hindsight I wish I’d waited and just waxed it but then there is maple along side it anyway and I want a colour contrast, my cherry has gone red as it naturally will do and darken in time anyway... so the idea of staining cherry is kinda pointless, as the piece you have wherever it’s from should change colour quite quickly as it’s known for ?
Very informative, thank you. I'm looking into making my own frames for my photography images, I’m a bit pee'd off with people buying an archival print I’ve took great care mounting for it to end up in a Dunhelm Mill frame. Do you recommend using a sealer at all prior to waxing? Products such as Briwax Shellac Sanding Sealer?
This is not very helpful. Good of any useful information and the only thing it does show is done wrong. I’ve always been taught that the wax should be applied with steel wool, not a cloth. The comment below explains why. Thanks for teaching me something new @phantomcreamer!
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From what I've read, the letting it set step is a total myth. There are two reasons for this. One is that you want to abraid the wax so it gets impacted into the wood and not left atop of the wood. Next, waxes used in woodworking generally "dry" quite hard. They are only soft until the solvents evaporate. When it dries hard, it is more difficult to polish off, and while hard to see with the naked eye, too much wax will be left behind. Wax build up is susceptible to dirt accumulation, but for table tops, even worse, they can have a nasty ring for fron hot/cold items left on top of them. Therefore, it's best to scrub it in and remove the excess before it dries, just like with any finish. The key is to avoid heating the wax, which may leave streaks or may cause it to prematurely dry out. That is one reason why brushes and 0000 steel wool (od synthetics) are a common method of applying wax. They are a fine abrasive and they don't produce heat like sandpaper or a rag may. When using a cloth don't rub too much in the same place, but move around the surface and come back to avoid overheating.
Can you apply beeswax to stain finish?
I turned my first bowl last week and tried a few finishes on scrap portions of the timber. All the oils made the walnut too dark and I wanted the grain to show and make it only slightly darker.
Bowling Alley wax, same a furnature wax, was the answer. Three coats hand rubbed over two days gave a nice slight satin gloss. Super shiny gloss was not wanted. The only thing that is supposed to be shinny is autos, silver, and chrome items in my opinion.
100% side with you, currently finishing a kitchen table with beeswax and its slowly starting to form a nice protective surface, satin sheen catches the grain so well!
Great video sir very well presented thank you 👍👏
hi, thank you for your demonstration. Can we do waxing on bare wood for interior projects without using any penetrating oil ?
Yes.
Could I apply this to a hutch after it's already been stained it seems very dry and seems as if just stained was applied
thank you so much! stripped old tables and don't want polyurethane finish. What is the brand of wax you are using and secondly what is best way to remove and reapply if necessary?.
Can you put a wax finnish over danish oil ? Thanks
Yes that can be done.
Hi! would you advise using wax on ply? I am looking for a matt/ non yellow finish on birch plywood.
How did your birch plywood turn out?
This might be a dumb question but if I use this wax to finish my bed frame, dining table, etc does the wax rub off and slowly stain my mattress/clothes/tablecloth? Or is it permanently solid or embedded in the wood?
+Tony F the wood absorbs all the wax, it does not stain your clothes :D, greetings from Argentina.
What kind of wax though?
For how long will this finish last??
Will that go into the wood if you've sanded to high grits? (7000 in my case, doing epoxy inlay)
Very helpful video - just what I was looking for. Thanks!
That wax look awesome but it also seems to have a high solvent content. Anyone know for sure?
Sherrie The softer the wax product the easier to apply but this also means a lot of solvent generally. However after the solvent evaporates the harness of the wax film will vary with the type of wax . Beeswax is softer than carnauba as an example. If you want to avoid the solvent all together then purchase pure wax and soften or melt in a double boiler. Hope this helps.
The lightest piece of cherry iv seen so far, iv just finished a project mainly cherry and I wanted it to be near as light as your piece there, a lot of it was previously stained and lacquered ( reclaimed from prev life and saved ) so iv sanded back those which face edge were used and which cut and planed. There is a difference in my planed to just sanded as the stain goes fairly deep but in all it was always dark compared to your bit.... in hindsight I wish I’d waited and just waxed it but then there is maple along side it anyway and I want a colour contrast, my cherry has gone red as it naturally will do and darken in time anyway... so the idea of staining cherry is kinda pointless, as the piece you have wherever it’s from should change colour quite quickly as it’s known for ?
Great video. Well presented and very informative. Thanks.
cure time?
best simple explanation :)
So does this give a really smooth feel to the wood too and what do you prep the wood with before it? 180 grit sandpaper?
Try applying the wax with 0000 steel wool.
imo anything below 300 grit is not a finish!
Thanks Ed - B, Ireland. Clancy Borestero’s niece🙂
Informative video, but the shaky-cam was a bit distracting.
Very informative, thank you. I'm looking into making my own frames for my photography images, I’m a bit pee'd off with people buying an archival print I’ve took great care mounting for it to end up in a Dunhelm Mill frame. Do you recommend using a sealer at all prior to waxing? Products such as Briwax Shellac Sanding Sealer?
Hello sir M in india mumbai where will I get d wax polish in mumbai guide me
Here you go www.ebay.in/itm/Excel-Floor-and-Furniture-Wood-Surfaces-Wax-Polish-Paste-200gm-White-/152342991752?hash=item2378599388:g:TpkAAOSwFqJWnw6Z
Get wax and good oil, boil mix and e voila
thankyou
The background music is distracting.
pleas find the attached document is a India pent And paleesh
Summary: rub the wax in.
This is not very helpful. Good of any useful information and the only thing it does show is done wrong. I’ve always been taught that the wax should be applied with steel wool, not a cloth. The comment below explains why. Thanks for teaching me something new @phantomcreamer!
to makYou can use woodprix plans. The best handbooks and very detailed instructions. You can learn much from them and make it yourself.
Wax on wax off.
mostly wax off.
If you want to make your own woodworking yourself just look for woodprix website. There is all you need to make it :)
the video image is too poor, you need to fix it more
the video image is too poor, you need to fix it more