NOTE TO ALL DIY: If you stop any screw before it is completely into its final position, when you come back to fully set it, back the screw out slightly then drive it “home”, completely into its final position. The reason this fellow broke off 2 Tapcon screws is due to over torquing the screw. This usually only occurs if you start…stop….then start again.
On the broken tapcons - they usually don't just break for their own sense of fun. I would guess either your hole wasn't quite deep enough, or enough of the drilled out concrete dust stayed in the hole that it the screw got into it and hung up. Concrete dust cut by the screw threads can also fill up the bottom of the hole as the screw goes in. Unlike into wood or most other materials, the concrete has _no_ give, so if you don't have space for the screw, it'll bind up and shear off. I believe tapcon recommends overdrilling by at least 1/2", and also blowing out the holes with compressed air. For next time :)
Thanks! I agree I probably wasn't deep enough to accomodate for any dust that may not have been cleaned out by the bit. I'll use air for larger holes but didn't for these small guys, also could have been an improvement although I believe it's actually not part of the instructions on these smaller screws
Tapcons are great, when you can install them properly. Yes, the holes need to be deeper than the penetration of the screw. Set your driver to low speed for torque. Don't stop until the the head pulls down and then come off the heard quickly and decisively. Not too late and not too early. It takes practice.
It is serious existential grounding to know that every time you take a dump, you built every inch of the waste system. Really, it makes going to the bathroom kind of fun and meaningful. You take care of your own shit.
always fun to see your progress Alex. My preferred way to put in toilets is to run 4" PVC up through the floor (3x4 closet bend common fitting everywhere). That way you can grout/fit tight to the floor then get flange that glues inside the 4" pipe,. Also, I guess no tile or other flooring down there? If so would be best to set flange after floor in, or shim it up so it will sit onto of final floor. Thanks for sharing your work.
Thanks for the tips! Considered the 4" and closet bend, I think I went 3" + storm pipe collar just because I had everything on hand and wanted to avoid buying any pricey 4" pipe. The first floor is all garage/utility space, it will get epoxy flooring that will run up to the flange.
Excellent video. You encourage people to pay attention to detail that matters. I suggest that people alway uses a quality angle stop, quarter turn shut-off valve. Do not buy cheap shut-off valves. As for the the supply rough-in, as you say, a drop ear 90 is best, with a brass nipple extending horizontally for the shut-off valve. My preference for wall covering around a toilet is tile. So use cement backer board instead of drywall.
Thanks! Definitely would have been more hidden here with the wall on the other side, 20/20 hindsight. On the upstairs bathroom it's 6 of one, half dozen of the other, but will certainly keep in mind for the future addition
Definitely don’t use black iron for a stub out! Or galvanized…They make copper stub outs that adapt to PEX from Sioux Chief that sweet onto a hero bar or the new hot items being installed are called MODA boxes from Oatey.
Thanks! I've seen the copper bullet 90s, those would probably be what I go with in the future. I still like not having a joint behind the wall though, so it's a tossup for me. The little white pipe sleeve really isn't noticeable unless you're a plumber staring at it 😆
I’ve always heard to keep radiant infloor pex away from the toilet drain to reduce the chance of the wax ring getting warm and potentially leaking. If you do try a wax ring, please let us know what happens.
a hub saver will drill out the pipe,, and will drill out the flange.. its essentially a giant PVC drill bit just for what you are doing come in all the PVC sizes
I've seen those, very cool tools but having a hard time picturing how well it would work in this application though. I guess it would drill the flange out to a 4" diameter for a 3" flange to drop into. I hope to God I never have to conduct that repair 😆
Curious why you set the toilet onto the concreate instead of tiling your floor first, then setting the toilet on top of the tile? Are you going to tile around the toilet? If you ever swap out toilets, that will be an issue because your tile is matched to your existing toilet? Just curious and not sure if you covered that in the video. Thanks
This is a garage/shop bathroom, no tile. Epoxy will be applied to the floor around the flange. Upstairs the toilet flange is set on a 1/2" plywood spacer where there will be tiled around it.
The toilet I'm installing has the same weird plastic piece to hook the toilet to the drain. Would you recommend silicone on the seal to help prevent leaks?
Very surprised you don’t have Half flush/Full flush buttons on the water tank .In Australia this is compulsory. Half flush is 3 litres and Full flush 4.5 litres( sometimes 5 litres). Saves a lot of water with the 2 buttons over a year even.
Used them before, never really thought about getting one for this shop bath to be honest. Definitely a good option in areas where water conservation is paramount
I'm working in a bathroom that is directly above an old cistern. Good news is I have access to the plumbing from below in the cistern. The customer wants to swap the location of the sink and toilet. I have never installed a complete toilet and drain. Just replaced toilets. Can I set the flange and secure it before running the drain to it? I don't have the tool you had to cut below the floor surface. What fasteners would you recommend so I don't run into the issue you had with them breaking. Any advice would greatly help and thank you. Great video.
NOTE TO ALL DIY: If you stop any screw before it is completely into its final position, when you come back to fully set it, back the screw out slightly then drive it “home”, completely into its final position. The reason this fellow broke off 2 Tapcon screws is due to over torquing the screw. This usually only occurs if you start…stop….then start again.
Flushable toilet looks great. Everything is coming together well. Great inspiration
On the broken tapcons - they usually don't just break for their own sense of fun. I would guess either your hole wasn't quite deep enough, or enough of the drilled out concrete dust stayed in the hole that it the screw got into it and hung up. Concrete dust cut by the screw threads can also fill up the bottom of the hole as the screw goes in. Unlike into wood or most other materials, the concrete has _no_ give, so if you don't have space for the screw, it'll bind up and shear off. I believe tapcon recommends overdrilling by at least 1/2", and also blowing out the holes with compressed air. For next time :)
Thanks! I agree I probably wasn't deep enough to accomodate for any dust that may not have been cleaned out by the bit. I'll use air for larger holes but didn't for these small guys, also could have been an improvement although I believe it's actually not part of the instructions on these smaller screws
Tapcons are great, when you can install them properly. Yes, the holes need to be deeper than the penetration of the screw. Set your driver to low speed for torque. Don't stop until the the head pulls down and then come off the heard quickly and decisively. Not too late and not too early. It takes practice.
Tapcons are a PITA. They love breaking.
Well I wasn't expecting the end, but it bloody cracked me up 🤣
Nice job on the toilet and don't forget to wipe!!🤣
hahah just a little easter egg for those who watch till the end 🤣
It is serious existential grounding to know that every time you take a dump, you built every inch of the waste system. Really, it makes going to the bathroom kind of fun and meaningful. You take care of your own shit.
always fun to see your progress Alex. My preferred way to put in toilets is to run 4" PVC up through the floor (3x4 closet bend common fitting everywhere). That way you can grout/fit tight to the floor then get flange that glues inside the 4" pipe,. Also, I guess no tile or other flooring down there? If so would be best to set flange after floor in, or shim it up so it will sit onto of final floor. Thanks for sharing your work.
Thanks for the tips! Considered the 4" and closet bend, I think I went 3" + storm pipe collar just because I had everything on hand and wanted to avoid buying any pricey 4" pipe. The first floor is all garage/utility space, it will get epoxy flooring that will run up to the flange.
Good advice.
Excellent video. You encourage people to pay attention to detail that matters. I suggest that people alway uses a quality angle stop, quarter turn shut-off valve. Do not buy cheap shut-off valves. As for the the supply rough-in, as you say, a drop ear 90 is best, with a brass nipple extending horizontally for the shut-off valve. My preference for wall covering around a toilet is tile. So use cement backer board instead of drywall.
Interesting tip on the backer board! Thanks Kevin
Very nice video thanks for sharing
Food for thought...rough in the water line on the other side of the toilet so the shut-off valve is hidden from view.
Thanks! Definitely would have been more hidden here with the wall on the other side, 20/20 hindsight. On the upstairs bathroom it's 6 of one, half dozen of the other, but will certainly keep in mind for the future addition
Very helpful, thanks.
Keep the water valve close to the wall. It doesn’t need to protrude that far and be so unsightly.
Left it out a bit in the case of a future replacement
Definitely don’t use black iron for a stub out! Or galvanized…They make copper stub outs that adapt to PEX from Sioux Chief that sweet onto a hero bar or the new hot items being installed are called MODA boxes from Oatey.
Thanks! I've seen the copper bullet 90s, those would probably be what I go with in the future. I still like not having a joint behind the wall though, so it's a tossup for me. The little white pipe sleeve really isn't noticeable unless you're a plumber staring at it 😆
I’ve always heard to keep radiant infloor pex away from the toilet drain to reduce the chance of the wax ring getting warm and potentially leaking. If you do try a wax ring, please let us know what happens.
It would be fine either way, the floor temp won't exceed 80F
Those metal flanges rust out over time. I'm guessing the concrete is the finished floor? Otherwise, the flange rests on the finished floor.
He knows everything.
The pose is 👌
To drill holes in concrete a hammer drill is used. Drills a lot easier and cleans out the hole better so the tapcons go in better and don’t snap..
The holes drilled easily since they were so small and shallow, I think I may not have gone deep enough on the ones that broke
Try "One and done". Flange bolts for a normal toilet.,, you can thank me later..
Never heard of them, interesting looking product. Surprised it's secure enough with just a hand tighten
a hub saver will drill out the pipe,, and will drill out the flange.. its essentially a giant PVC drill bit just for what you are doing come in all the PVC sizes
I've seen those, very cool tools but having a hard time picturing how well it would work in this application though. I guess it would drill the flange out to a 4" diameter for a 3" flange to drop into. I hope to God I never have to conduct that repair 😆
Curious why you set the toilet onto the concreate instead of tiling your floor first, then setting the toilet on top of the tile? Are you going to tile around the toilet? If you ever swap out toilets, that will be an issue because your tile is matched to your existing toilet? Just curious and not sure if you covered that in the video. Thanks
This is a garage/shop bathroom, no tile. Epoxy will be applied to the floor around the flange. Upstairs the toilet flange is set on a 1/2" plywood spacer where there will be tiled around it.
Last comment was funny. A man needs to mark his territory.
The toilet I'm installing has the same weird plastic piece to hook the toilet to the drain. Would you recommend silicone on the seal to help prevent leaks?
Very surprised you don’t have Half flush/Full flush buttons on the water tank .In Australia this is compulsory. Half flush is 3 litres and Full flush 4.5 litres( sometimes 5 litres). Saves a lot of water with the 2 buttons over a year even.
Used them before, never really thought about getting one for this shop bath to be honest. Definitely a good option in areas where water conservation is paramount
I'm working in a bathroom that is directly above an old cistern. Good news is I have access to the plumbing from below in the cistern. The customer wants to swap the location of the sink and toilet. I have never installed a complete toilet and drain. Just replaced toilets. Can I set the flange and secure it before running the drain to it? I don't have the tool you had to cut below the floor surface. What fasteners would you recommend so I don't run into the issue you had with them breaking. Any advice would greatly help and thank you. Great video.
I find it easier to set the flange first if you can run the drain below after
No, you should put the flange on top of finished tile, not on the concrete subfloor.
There is no tile, it's a shop bathroom
Copper is ok but black iron is a big NO for water. Is the concrete your finished floor?
True not sure why I said black iron. Only epoxy will go on the surface of the concrete
i remember.
Guess what. The closet flange is meant to sit directly on top of the finished floor surface. womp womp.
It is….
@@MasonDixonAcres stay classy.