An uncle's old £150 9 speed tiagra aluminium road bike. It was great until I bent the back wheel. That was 2 years ago and now I've got 4 bikes and had 2 old ones. Exactly spend as much or as little as you like, how much do you like the sport/lifestyle, is it your mode of transport or is it for fitness or your mental health, all valid reasons
Another Good thing to mention to beginners is to not use an old helmet. While the helmet that's been sitting in your garage for 15 years is cheap and seems tempting, it does not offer basically any safety benefits and is likely to break under impact. Please don't underplay your safety. Stay Safe out there :)
@miyui9269 no, it is not. This is a bad way to think about it. Think about what MIPS is. What Wavecell is, and the Smith equivalent to wavecell. These technologies are made to reduce the chances of concussion. But if you have a helmet that just breaks upon impact, it essentially just is protecting your skin. You will still receive just as much of a concussion as if you had no helmet.
@@diehardbikes no, because the force of the impact is then used, at least partially, yo deform/break the helmet rather than going straight to your scull. This is the primary safety function of most helmets in all areas of use, not just cycling.
@@zachrichardson7099 rotational force is very dangerous for the brain. MIPS etc are CRITICAL to lessen the damage (or avoid it completely) and a non-MIPS-helmet cannot provide that protection. Read more: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-directional_Impact_Protection_System
Yeah. Helmets do crush and/or break on impact, and that's fine, and part of how they work. Technologies like MIPS are to reduce certain types of concussion (rotational, as opposed to direct impacts), but in either case helmets are designed to crush sacrificially. The reason to not use the old helmet from 15 years ago, is that the foam has probably degraded, and could be shrunken, harder, or more brittle, and will not absorb the energy as smoothly in a crash, while it's crushing as intended.
I'd rather buy a used bike in really good condition that was an expensive, high-end bike from its day over a new base model for the same money. A badass bike from 2013 or even 2003 is still a badass bike today. For most riders, especially new ones, would perform exactly the same on a bike like this over a new one.
Good list. I'd add a simple multitool. It doesn't need to have a chainbreaker. The 6 most popular hex bolt sizes will do. But you nearly always need to tighten, loosen or adjust something on a ride. Cheers
Topeak Hexus X is the one I always recommend. Under £20, does include a chainbreaker and the sides are the tyre levers so it's a quality, cheap and very compact toolkit for the bike. Only thing it doesn't have that some budget bikes might need is spanners/wrenches.
@@cruachan1191 Sounds like a good choice. I have a Topeak Mini 9, which is great, but has one flaw -- the 8mm adaptor is almost guaranteed to get lost.
I think you can hold off on the shorts and jersey especially if you aren’t starting with a drop bar bike. Once you are doing longer rides it’s well worth getting, but plenty of people have fun biking on paths or to lunch and only go a few miles each way.
And Endura makes padded Boxer Briefs just for commuting and recreational riding. Wear them under whatever pants one is comfortable wearing, as an interim step to bibs. I’ve even used them on my trainer when Zwifting.
Yep, plenty of cyclists don't bother with that stuff. I have some jerseys, but I only really bother with them if I'm doing a particularly long ride, or racing at the velodrome, etc. Bike shorts seem totally unnecessary to me. I don't own anything with a chamois/padding. I'm not doing any ultra-endurance type riding, but have done several 100km rides, and my hands and neck are probably far more of a limiting factor than my butt. For my 10km commute, I just wear my normal clothes, and roll up my right pantleg, or tuck it into my sock, if it's not shorts weather. If I was going to recommend specialized gear, it would be rain gear, if you're going to be riding regularly in the rain. A good jacket, rain pants, and shoe covers of some sort.
yep. i believe for casual rider, normal pants is suffice. /Maybe its duathlete/triathlete thing (or ism/shortnose saddle), but i can ride my race bike in just running compression shorts (0 padding) for 0.5-1hr just fine lel
Good advice here. My first adult bike was an old steel hardtail mountain bike that I found at a thrift store for $75. I put a new chain and some road tires on it and rode it all over town for two years. You don't have to spend very much money at all to have fun on a bike (though it's obviously even more fun if you do). I do disagree with the part about bicycling-specific jerseys and shorts, though; many people do find them more comfortable, but you don't actually need those special clothes to ride a bike if you're not racing. In the past few years, I've pretty much switched to "normal" clothes full-time, even on very long rides, and I can't say that I notice much of a difference, other than the occasional odd look from other cyclists.
Honestly I would buy gloves and glasses before a rear light. Don't like having bugs in my eyes. And having grip with sweaty hands is really nice. And if you end up crashing your hands are a bit protected.
I've ridden gloveless for over a decade. Only time they're ever needed is in the cold. I'm not crazy at 20-45 degrees F. I used to ride glassless when I was a noob before I got bugs in the eyes. Screw that, glasses on every ride
@@Cuzzazbuzzyou don’t need a rear light to be on the road if you only ride in very good conditions. But should definitely use one if you intend to ride at night or when it’s raining or overcast
@@Cuzzazbuzz depends where and when you ride. In Belgium/Netherlands its feasable to ride hours without having to use a shared road with cars. From what I have seen and judging by your profile picture, its a lot harder in your country. Not everyone is in the same situation as yourself. And in mine I prefer having protection for myself before buying lights that I don't need in that riding context. ( I do have lights on my comuter, but that one is used in the dark and on roads)
If you started cycling and find your saddle uncomfortable, "DO NOT" change the saddle, in most cases (99%) the problem is with the your position or overall bike fit.
Dunno a lot of the time bike companies put on the cheapest , lowest weights saddle on their complete bikes knowing the customer will change it. I use the same saddle and always just move it onto my next bike when the time comes.
Not true. If the saddle that comes with the bike is missing a pressure relief channel, you would likely benefit from upgrading to a cheap saddle with one
@@Laranth1 yeah it also come down to the width of sit bones. Most stock saddles will be in an average width. But if you have narrow or wide sit bones, then stock will never be comfy regardless of bike fit / position.
I agree, but there's another common thing to look out for as well. It may actually be a good fit, and it just takes a few weeks of riding before your sit bones get used to it. A new rider (or anyone who's been off the bike for a significant amount of time) will feel like their sit bones are getting bruised, and that their seat is "too hard", etc, but you'll get used to that fairly quickly, and the answer is not more padding. If it's uncomfortable, think about _how_ it's uncomfortable. If it just feels hard, like your sit bones are bruised. Just stick with it for a while, and it'll likely go away after riding for a week or so. If there's significant pressure on things that aren't your sit bones, try adjusting the fit to get the weight onto the sit bones. This might mean a shorter/higher stem, or possibly just a slight tilt of the saddle. If all that fails, then you might still need a different saddle, and in choosing one, don't look at gimmicks like channels, or amount of padding, as much as just trying for a good fit that supports you properly. My favourite saddle is quite flat, thin, and hard, but I've done several 100km rides on it wearing un-padded shorts, and it's not a problem.
Never bloody mind carbon Ollie, get a bike with appropriate gearing for where you live and what level of fitness you are at.... a bike you can actually cycle up the hills is better than one a kilo lighter with silly high gearing you'll end up pushing up hills.... go 30/46 by 11-36 for starters...
For an absolute beginner you might be right, but getting a nice lower end frame with a mid-range groupset would make it easier to sell on and recoup spme money if they don't stick with it.
I’d add starting off with an endurance type bike with MTB flats. 90% of us are not going to be racing, just riding for fun, and a racing geometry bike is going to be too long and too low for most people to enjoy as much.
I bought three bike-shop brand "entry level" hybrid bikes this year, one for my daughter, one for my son-in-law, and one for me, now at their house 1000 miles away, for when I'm visiting. The guys' bikes were great deals (used but rarely ridden COVID era purchases) for $450 and $325. My daughter's was new at $800, since she wanted a specific color, grips and saddle. All the equipment you mentioned for three riders, plus quality mini-tool sets and a used double toddler trailer, minus clothing, was right at $2200. So if you shop around you can outfit a whole family with quality cycling equipment on a modest budget.
When starting out I’d advise to have a very good at second hand bikes, and don’t let anybody make you believe a carbon fiber frame is any better. I’d say that quite likely on the lower and mid tier bikes you’ll most likely even get a better alu or steel frame than a carbon costing about the same. There are absolute alu gems out there that can easily compete with carbon frames. I would advise not to save on a good saddle. Good doesn’t mean light, but well designed and comfortable. Decent tires with good puncture resistance and some multitool to carry out some saddle height/tilt/fwd-afd position changes as you start. Experiment with your position on the bike in small steps.
My first bike going back to cycling was a road bike with a flat bar - so a hybrid. That and a helmet was it. In my first few months of riding, I purchased nothing else. Rode in street clothes and shoes. Experience teaches as you go so the first addition was a saddle that didn't hurt after 20 minutes, and would be good for at least two or three painless hours. Then came padded shorts, gloves, inner tubes, back pack, multi-tool, front and rear lights, a bell, chain lube, a mini pump but with a short flex hose connection. The pumps without the little hose are smaller and cheaper but they wreak havoc on the tire valve. Now, 13 years later I've accumulated more bikes, a variety of tools for taking them apart and re-assembling them, an old pot and blocks of wax for chains, cleaning brushes, various greases and yet more lubricating materials. The most indulgent thing I fell for was a bike computer and it's a lot of fun. I can put it on any bike I ride and download my day into my phone. The bike and cycling I think, is one answer to a great number of challenges we as a successful species are facing, like overcrowded, polluted cities. The impossible to control and curb use of fossil fuels. The awful amount of injury and death from speeding cars and trucks. The growing obesity in a large segment of the population together with subsequent health problems which are overwhelming our hospitals and health care systems. Cycling isn't the the only answer of course but it's a good start. Let's keep pedaling.
Nice idea to help people get into cycling : ) Maybe bring back some of your everyday people riders/commuters to see what they think about costs and real-world problems. Most commuters may need rain gear that protects work clothes, and they may not have anywhere to change in or out of bib shorts etc.
My first road bike was an aluminium, rim brake with claris groupset bike. If l have to go back in time, l would opt for a second hand bike with a better 105 groupset.
7:30 most phones will overheat, or “freeze” and turn off 3/4 of the year. Also, you’ll get flat battery relatively quick, not to mention putting an expensive&brittle phone at risk of damage.
Absolutely true. Use a dedicated GPS unit. I've used the same bike computers for many years. No GPS. They keep track of my mileage, max speed, average speed, cadence and, if need be, heart rate with the optional monitor. I know where I'm going and I can check my stats at any time. My phone stays stashed in my rear bike bag. If I crash, which hasn't happened in many years, it is safe and secure.
My first "proper" bike was a GT Tempest back in 1995... Cost something like £400 back then, and I replaced everything on that bike multiple times over, spent all my weekend job earnings on it! Today bikes are stupidly expensive, and all the gear you're told you need.... All the cycling fashion etc.... we just rode out in jeans and T Shirts, no £100 jerseys and special shoes! ....it's as expensive as you want it to be.... Most people are waaaaaay over biked these days, compared to most people being under biked in the 90s
When Alex mentions a "dreaded puncture" in the intro you can see Ollie's flashback to Mallorca and his anticipation of more comments. In all seriousness, get good quality stuff, but wait until it is on sale. End of season sales are great chance to save money and give you fresh kit when the seasons turn again.
Good to know tip: If you don't feel having a bike bag you can have secondary bottle cage and use a storage bottle. For water bottle recommendation CamelBak Podium is one of the best. Because it's insulated and the nozzle is not a top pull. Just squeeze the bottle and you're good to go.
I am going to throw a caveat for the rear lights - For night riding I use 2 lights, a cheap USB on solid, and a slightly pricier Cateye that uses 2x AAA batteries on flash. The Cateye batteries last (even running flash in daytime) for a year, they use a higher quality lower energy use LEDs and the max runtime on the USB is less than 20 hours flashing so there is more of a crossover there.
@@leonardhpls6 I'm just saying that similar USB options aren't always better. The AAA battery Cateye was still a fair amount cheaper than the top of the range USB rechargeable Cateyes which do have better battery life. Also cheaper USB lights don't always have a power indicator or only have a small additional light next to the port which flashes when the battery is almost dead because you overestimated how much power you had left. On longer rides it could stop working entirely and you're stuck. At least with my setup, if both lights fail (unlikely but not impossible) I can at least find a petrol station and grab a pack of batteries and be on my way.
love this beginner stuff, more videos like this. Uffff, just tell me. Purchased a Triban RC 120 flat bars street fighter style for long distances and to ride on my very hilly area, and I had to buy a few things to get started. First buy cost me 75€ (bike aside) and I got pumps (big at home, small to take with me), levers, helmet, multitool kit, butyl tubes, etc etc, and now I am looking into clothes for very rainy weather, and cold winter, and so on and so forth. Very happy though, cycling is like a therapy and synonymous of everything good
Something that amazed me years ago when starting out from scratch. I needed about £500 for all the kit, shoes, pedals, jacket, track pump, bottle cages etc. even the saddle bag was about £70 to buy and fill.
❤… Where does it end? First you buy a bike, then you buy a helmet, then fancy garb, clippless pedals, bike computer, bike specific tools (including but not limited to headset and bottom bracket bearing press and derailer alignment tools), over-“SI”zed sun glasses, power meter, light weight version of everything you bought before, AERO everything…. Another bike … and the N+1 rule constantly haunts you throughout your fitness endeavors. But don’t worry, you’ll always have GCN to encourage your every purchase along the way👍 Even if your partner disagrees.❤️
As a follow on from this video might be “my first upgrade”? Maybe GCN tech could talk us through what to spend money on after cycling for a year or so.
For those who aren’t ready to get Lycra yet, Endura, and I presume other companies, make padded boxer briefs to go under what pants you are comfortable wearing. For commuting or recreational riding, I’ve even used them on my trainer Zwifting when I did an easy, under 30min leg spin out after work.
There is no need to jump straight into lycra, there are so many great baggy options out there. Perhaps the GMBN kit could be the perfect fit 👉gmbn.eu/Jerseys
@@Cous1nJack I bought from my LBS to help them stay in business. But I’ve looked at the Decathlon site for their winter gloves that have a mitten shroud that flips over the fingers which seems like a brilliant design to me. Though they’ve always been out of stock since one of Katie Kookaburra’s riding mates mentioned them in one of her videos.
Despite spending much of the 90’s racing, these days on a ride I wear a pair of tracksuit bottoms over my bib shorts to avoid looking too much like a M.A.M.I.L 😂😂😂😂
Nice video. My one question is: What is wrong with a good, old fashioned frame pump? I have Zefal HPx frame pumps on my regular road bike and my tandem. They are inexpensive, last forever and will quickly pump a tire up to a good pressure. I'm not some Luddite who doesn't like new technology. Those mini-pumps are basically useless and take forever and even the CO2 cartridge inflation devices can be limited. I had the second flat that I've had in the last three or four years. Checked the tire, popped in the new tube and in no time I was on my way. No fuss, no muss. You also should have a front light. Traffic may not see you and turn in front of you or pull out from a side street. Reflective clothing is not enough if they aren't coming directly towards you. You may get stuck riding at night for one reason or another. A decent, rechargeable front light can be a life saver.
I would say if you starting in cycling, no matter if it's road, gravel or mtb, get a pair of mtb shoes, you have cheaper options and are more polyvalent than road shoes. Also mtb pedals are easier to use, since you can clip on both sides.
Lots of good advice here! I would add a few things only: the track pump is a must and you can buy ones at a pretty low cost and it certainly beats spending so much time and effort to use a minipump at home; I always ride with gloves as you never know when you might come off and graze your knuckles, which really hurts; after years of avoiding it I got tired of yelling at clueless pedestrians and broke down, equipping each of my bikes with a discreetly mounted bell (also cheap).
I suppose for me, i wouldnt cheap out on 3 things: helmet, bibs, or touchpoints on a bike. And good tires too. A helmet is the cheapest life insurance you can buy on a bike. By far. A GOOD SET of Bib shorts will keep you comfortable for longer, and touchpoints will too. Good saddle thats the right width and shape for you, (at the right tilt too), good bar tape, bars the right width, and stem the correct length. Good tires will keep you on the road for longer with plenty of grip, and performance to boot. Spend money in these places. And one thing that you dont need to spend any money on? Stretch. Stretch those legs out. And back. Pro cyclists do this EVERY day. And theres a reason for that.
Very good list. Speaking of tubes and tire levers, you should learn how to change your tire through practice. You do not need to have an actual flat to do this, rather learn how to do all of the activities. This will save you grief when it actually happens, which it will.
I started with a sensible road bike pre COVID, and through shutdown, figured out precisely what i wanted…now have a shed of multiple “garden tools”, racks of kit, and a separate pain cave. Falling off the cliff is an understatement.
16:38 Great list guys. I always try to consider any "extra" money I may spend as a small investment in the local cycling community. Always support a good LBS when you can! It's one way to help support better cycling advocacy in your local area as a good LBS is often one of the strongest voices or a common hub for cycling advocacy.
02:30 totally agree with this. Started on a £450 Specialised crosstail flat bar that I upgraded to Tiagra before going to Halfords of all places for a £1.5k Boardman carbon SLR with 105 and I've never looked back. Looking at the cost of going to Ultegra or Dura Ace you have to look at the cost of replacing components that are gonna wear out. 105 saw the biggest gains and how much are you going to notice further up. Groupset of the people...People. Great vid again guys
For lights with batteries though: you can get rechargeable batteries! So you don't have to burn through lots of batteries, you can just take them out and recharge them. Plus, you can bring a spare battery with you in case you run out and swap batteries during your ride.
You can also find inexpensive, rechargeable lights. My front headlight recharges with a mini-usb cable. Plug it in after a ride that you had to use it and it is ready to go fairly quickly. Mine stays charged for quite a long time and has an indicator to keep and eye on the charge.
Buy from your local bike shop, Always leave with something in addition that you'd not planned on, don't flash your cash but act like you need advice always.... eventually the team will be awesome next time you need a new bike and you're giving employment to bike needs and passionate bikers. Win, win
One time when I went grocery shopping, I've come to find that my bicycle was completely fine but that I was completely naked. Somehow those bike thieves managed to run off with $300 dollars' worth of threads without a trace. I'm going to have to invest on a better bicycle gear lock for myself.
💯💯💯Cycling is an EXPENSIVE sport 💯💯💯 Bike, Helmet, Cycling Kit, Bike Computer, Bike Pump, Bike Lights (front and rear), Inner Tubes or sealant, Tire Lever, Saddle Bag, Bottle and Bottle Cage, Pedals and cycling shoes, Cycling shades, and the list goes on and on and on... 😭😭😭
Middle isle (Lidl or Aldi) is a great place to get inexpensive but good quality cycling kit (including track pumps snd tools). In the South west of England we have a shop called Proper Job. They have good basic hand tools at good prices. I would recommend both for beginners.
It's definitely been covered by at least one of the channels. If not GCN Tech then maybe GMBN Tech. GCN mostly looks at drop bar bikes while I think CUES is only on flat bars for the moment.
There are a few points I respectfully disagree with in an otherwise very helpful video: Forgo a cheap carbon frame and go for a nice aluminum frame, they are cheaper and very well designed and frees up money for better group set and tires. I only use bike lights that have removeable batteries. Rechargeable batteries lose their charge over time and can corrode. Easily replace your batteries with Ikea rechargeable batteries ($4 a pair) instead of forking out another $40-$100 for a new light when batteries go bad. Get to know an avid cyclist that is your height and buy their old gear (except helmets and bib shorts, always buy new). They will also give you advice where you can shop for a great deal and help you shop used. Your friend will always give you a great deal and solid advice because it means they'll always have friend to ride with.
One more thing on the subject of your kit: I've gotten in the good habit of rinsing my kit directly to get all of the sweat and road dust out of it with just water before I hop into my postride shower. Like a prewash for your bike, this takes the dirt factor from "dear lord, what did you ride through?!" down to a more moderate level of soil. Then they tended to come much cleaner when washed with soap afterwards because they've been prewashed.
Right. 105 is good enough even for amateur but competitive racers! Some years ago GCN did a video with their guys blinded trying to tell the difference between 105, Ultegra and Dura Ace only by sound and feelings and they were hardly noticeable. But people think and feel using more expensive stuff make them fast and more flashy.
Just picked up my first gravel bike a Specialized Diverge E5 couple of years old second hand paid $1000 New Zealand dollars including freight from other end of the country (equivalent to $481 pounds sterling) got some new bbb spd pedals for $5 Nz and a pair of great bike shoes for $40 Nz from a thrift shop which were in as new condition …only thing I need to get now is some clothing…doing ok getting in the game so far
Great video and great advice. I’d say after a bike don’t stint on shorts. That took me to my third go to find good padding. I’d also add a front light (be seen, be safe) and I would recommend a track pump. They have a good enough gauge and stop any faffing pumping up your tyres and giving you an excuse to not get out on your bike.
Interesting. I will say, bibs are as varied as anything else, like a saddle. Some straps are soft, woven, others stiffer and tighter. My first chamois was with shorts, but I'm all for bibs nowadays
Great video guys and your timing is impeccable, just ordered my first bike in 40 years lol! Apparently things have changed since my BSA Javelin back in the 70’s. Classic case of the budget being no problem but the experience being at the bottom of the scale and a reality check of reigning in my enthusiasm. Bit nervous I have to say but really excited as well. Thanks again it’s been super helpful video.
What did you get? I’m in a similar situation though budget is important to me. I like the hype of the gravel bike but not sure about drop bars or groupsets.
@@deifor I bought a Trek fx3 in the end thinking the straight handle bars would be the best way to go. After three months my fitness has raised significantly and already done several 100k+ rides. Really improved my mental health as well. Just ordered a Fairlight Strael for my first drop handle bike, really fancied old school steel bike and really impressed with there philosophy and website. One thing is for certain returning to cycling, even at 62 has been a huge positive in my life. Good luck with whatever you choose
If your employer offers cycle to work that can be advantageous. Also you might find that MTB or Hybrid bikes offer better value or are cheaper than road bikes. If depends on whether you want to go fast or not and what you want to do on your bike. I have recently replaced and upgraded components, including tyres on my hybrid bike as I am looking to do bike touring/packing next year, and my local bike shop did the servicing and upgrade which was quick and good.
Thank you Alf and Dr O ...Pedro's tire levers. Multi tool , mini-pumps suck , in general . Get GOOD tools , AND , bring someone with you that rides where you will , so you get the right bike ? I had hand me down everything as a kid , first new one was at 40 yrs old .Hybrid cuz I was dumb !!!!
Mini-pumps are basically useless. You might as well take out the stem and blow into it. I've had my Zefal HPx frame pumps since the eighties and they still work fine. You can buy the internal parts for cheap if need be and replace them in a few minutes. I can pump-up my road tires in a couple of minutes from flat and I can count the flats that I've had in the last fifteen years or so on one hand.
An educated guess before watching the video. Around 2k for a half decent bike (it doesn't have to be super aero/light with a 12x drive train) and the kit to ride all year round
One other suggestion. Get a patch kit, and learn to patch your tubes. You can leave the patch kit at home. take a spare tube. When you get a flat, bring the punctured tube home, patch it, test it with a little bit of air to make sure it's sealed up well, and put it back in your bag as a spare for next time. a $5 patch kit will let you reuse the same $5 tube many times over.
Thanks guys. When I discovered GCN about 5 years ago, I immediately bought some GCN/Castelli kits. Though a bit more money, this was the best investment I ever made. I still have them, and have added to the collection from the GCN shop ever since. Super comfortable and worth every penny. Quality over quantity is the rule of the day.
I just got my first bike last month. Canyon CF7 with a Shimano 105 (group set of the people!) I’m using her indoors right now to train and avoid having to buy a lot of winter kit.
It's a good idea to also check local laws for some requirements e.g. there are light brightness requirements for front and rear lights when cycling at night here in Sydney
Good beginners lycra is out there from brands that do also sell things to upgrade to down the line but I say to everyone that asks me spend a real amount to begin with spend between £30-£60 on a pair of shorts and roughly the same on a Jersey
When I first bought a motorbike the protective clothing cost more than the 8th hand learner motorbike. Other pieces of kit I would add to the cycling list would be a front light just in case you get caught out in the dark also a bell if you are going to use a canal towpath.
Wish I'd had this vid 6 months ago when I went through this! Useful tip (if you're in the UK), a certain insurance price comparison website offers £20 vouchers to a certain large chain that sells bikes and accessories. I'm aware a lot of people hate this certain chain, but £20 or (£40 if you have both car and home insurance to renew) to spend on lights, bottles, cages, spares etc is useful to a beginner like me. Also the two budget supermarkets in the UK have promos periodically in their "middle aisles" (you can probably work out who they are!) and sell clothes, work stands, accessories and cleaning products. The quality varies on these but some are good IME. Lastly, I didn't go for bibs. I'm not going fast enough to worry about lycra, I chose Endura Hummvee cargo shorts and use running/gym wicking t-shirts as my jersey and wear trail runners for now. Had the running kit anyway (switch to cycling is due to old knees!) so saved some cash there.
I don't have alot of money thanks to being underpaid for decades, so I started out in 2004 w/a 60 lb purple Magna I got on sale for $60 at Target. Did I have to get off and push it uphill? You bet, but then I got my weight-bearing exercise. Went all over LA w/it. Many of the Hispanic families in my area are living on less than $30,000/yr. Even a $300-$500 bike is too much if they have 3 kids. I say check for good second-hand bikes or watch for the sales.
Beginner bike wheels can come with Shrader sized valve holes. If this is the case you can go pump tyres up at petrol stations. Otherwise you can also use a Shrader/Presta adapter which costs around 2 euros.
Well I'm just going through that and I'm shocked how expensive some stuff are. Till now i bought: Giant TCR advanced 1 with 105 di2 - 2600 euros Shimano pedals - 80 euros NW shoes - 140 euros Bottle cages - 30 euros for pair Bottles - 30 euros for pair Specialized Propero 4 helmet - 200 euros Sportful bib shorts - 100 euros Decathlon bib shorts - 70 euros 3 Decathlon jerseys - 70 euros 2 pairs of Decathlon socks - 20 euros And just ordered Garmin 840 bundle and Garmin Varia which iz 670 euros combined - i have been using Suntoo race watch for "bike computer" but Varia is a must for safety and I soon realized bike computer is must also. So I am bare minimum in (without the pump, multitool and repare kit) with entry level bike and the cost is 4010 euros. Then in a year add powermeter for 700 euros, carbon wheelset+new tires for 1000 euros and smart trainer foe around 600 euros and u are in for around 6300 euros. And everyone I know that gets really into cycling buys those 3 things. Point of my post is don't expect to spend 1000 euros for entry level bike and you are done because that is definitely not the case.
yup, I ilve in a isolated mountainous area and there isn't a bike shop nearby. My new road bike was perfectly delivered but for instance the chain tension wasn't good so in the chainring, so the transition from the small 34T chainring to the 48T one wasn't smooth (it was okay the other way around), I had to press the lever twice instead of once. So I called the shop and they told about a little nut you can turn around on your lever and adjust the tension from there until you find the perfect tension. I managed to find the ideal spot and now the bike changes the front gears like a champ in a single touch
I have a 3T stem. The stem has a removable piece and you can install a Garmin 1000 mount. When I bought this part (not the stem) I paid 80-90 Euros + shipping. The Garmin 1000 Edge was another 500 Euros from a LBS. I bought the stem for just 400 Euros. I had a lot of disposable income then. The Sram 22 Red with hydraulic rim brakes groupset was another 3K. All thins back in 2016. The Specialized frame was 1K (used). I even purchased all the bolts in anodized red to match the frame color
Is cycling more formal and structured in the UK? My point is the commentary about cycling clothes. Should beginners be concerned about this? I envision beginners starting out on urban/hybrid/fitness style bikes for which specialty clothing is not needed. But ok, I guess you'll need to learn about clothing eventually.
On a road bike, cycling shorts are basically a requirement pretty quickly. Once you are riding over 20 km at a go, it's going to be uncomfortable. There are so many people who sit on a road bike and say, "This saddle is crap. Why is there no padding?" I think it's good to tell people up front that it's a cost you need to prepare for.
pfff, My first bike costed 45 euros and was so terrible (performance was for 45 euro too). But joy of riding the bike is no the cost of it. After 10 years I have 4 different bikes, for different roads I use to ride. And the joy is still here. Knowledge and understanding comes slow.
Most cheap bikes are fairly well-equipped nowadays. However, the saddles they come with are horrendous, padding in all the wrong places, and usually people wrongly assume padded means comfort which is far from the truth.
I'd strongly suggest decent shoes. A stiff sole with a cleat will be much comfier than trainers... TyreGlider is an excellent tyre lever, bit of a game changer!
What you need is a bike, helmet, F&R light to get started. Most people don't ride far from home to start with. Then you can add extra stuff to go further.
Making sure once you bought it your COMFORTABLE on it. If you can only ride for 30 minutes or 60 without pain you need to refit and retest your position. I never got this till about 20 years after riding. When I gave up work to ride 4000km rides I had to fix this issue good and proper. For new riders is probably a make or break so if any niggle is a niggle fix it.
Buy a regret bike - there are lots of hardly used big discount bikes for second hand sale for excellent low prices. Just make sure the bike frame is your size. Everything else can be modified later.
I think it should be said, that you can skip the cycling specific clothing if you're just starting out. For the saddlebag, get one that will fit your phone, wallet, keys, and a tube. Then you don't have all that junk rattling around in your pockets while you ride. For saddles, be concerned mostly with fit/shape, and how it supports you, and not what initially feels comfortable. The saddle should be holding you up primarily by your sit bones, and not be pushing up into your crotch. Moderately stiff/hard saddles are not as bad as they initially seem. You'll probably get sore sit bones for a little while when you get started, but you do get used to that, and it could be a good saddle once you're used to it. Lots of people go to a really big soft saddle to try and fix this, but they're generally too wide and will restrict your pedaling, and will distribute the weight off your sit bones, and only other parts less equipped to dealing with it longer-term. On the bike, stay away from department store bikes, unless you have a friend who's a good mechanic who can both direct you to a bike that's at least compatible with modern parts (for repairs, etc), and can basically pull it apart, and properly reassemble it with you to make sure it's safely/correctly assembled, and even then, the wheels are likely not great, and that's not a cheap thing to fix. From a cost perspective, most likely only the best few bikes they have will be any good, and the price difference between the highest-end department store bike, and the lowest end bike in a real bike shop isn't going to be huge, and it'll probably be a better bike, assembled by someone who knows what they're doing, and should be void of obsolete technologies that are hard to service (one piece cranks, threaded headsets, janky old super flimsy brakes, etc)
What was/is your first bike? 🚲
An uncle's old £150 9 speed tiagra aluminium road bike. It was great until I bent the back wheel. That was 2 years ago and now I've got 4 bikes and had 2 old ones. Exactly spend as much or as little as you like, how much do you like the sport/lifestyle, is it your mode of transport or is it for fitness or your mental health, all valid reasons
Raleigh Budgie
I guess I'm so old that there weren't bicycles back then 😁
Had a MTB bike as a kid then bought a second hand one while at uni and in my last year of uni got a gravel bike Cannondale topstone 1
Metallic blue Raleigh Grifter....
A pair of cycling glasses is a must to save your eyes from flying objects. It is as important as a helmet. A floor pump is a must.
Agree with glasses! Can't be without mine.
Another Good thing to mention to beginners is to not use an old helmet. While the helmet that's been sitting in your garage for 15 years is cheap and seems tempting, it does not offer basically any safety benefits and is likely to break under impact. Please don't underplay your safety. Stay Safe out there :)
breaking upon impact is how helmets work, is it not?
@miyui9269 no, it is not. This is a bad way to think about it. Think about what MIPS is. What Wavecell is, and the Smith equivalent to wavecell. These technologies are made to reduce the chances of concussion. But if you have a helmet that just breaks upon impact, it essentially just is protecting your skin. You will still receive just as much of a concussion as if you had no helmet.
@@diehardbikes no, because the force of the impact is then used, at least partially, yo deform/break the helmet rather than going straight to your scull. This is the primary safety function of most helmets in all areas of use, not just cycling.
@@zachrichardson7099 rotational force is very dangerous for the brain. MIPS etc are CRITICAL to lessen the damage (or avoid it completely) and a non-MIPS-helmet cannot provide that protection.
Read more:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-directional_Impact_Protection_System
Yeah. Helmets do crush and/or break on impact, and that's fine, and part of how they work. Technologies like MIPS are to reduce certain types of concussion (rotational, as opposed to direct impacts), but in either case helmets are designed to crush sacrificially.
The reason to not use the old helmet from 15 years ago, is that the foam has probably degraded, and could be shrunken, harder, or more brittle, and will not absorb the energy as smoothly in a crash, while it's crushing as intended.
I'd rather buy a used bike in really good condition that was an expensive, high-end bike from its day over a new base model for the same money. A badass bike from 2013 or even 2003 is still a badass bike today. For most riders, especially new ones, would perform exactly the same on a bike like this over a new one.
2010s bikes work just fine for most riders.
YES... start out at mid tier bikes, even low tier. These are mid and low in name only, they are high quality components!
Good list. I'd add a simple multitool.
It doesn't need to have a chainbreaker. The 6 most popular hex bolt sizes will do.
But you nearly always need to tighten, loosen or adjust something on a ride.
Cheers
Topeak Hexus X is the one I always recommend. Under £20, does include a chainbreaker and the sides are the tyre levers so it's a quality, cheap and very compact toolkit for the bike. Only thing it doesn't have that some budget bikes might need is spanners/wrenches.
Maybe tension your shit correctly 😂 "nearly always" behave
If you need to adjust something that often, I recommend a different mechanic.....
@@cruachan1191 Sounds like a good choice. I have a Topeak Mini 9, which is great, but has one flaw -- the 8mm adaptor is almost guaranteed to get lost.
Good shout! Having a couple of simple tools with you may be the difference between a good and bad ride 🙌
I think you can hold off on the shorts and jersey especially if you aren’t starting with a drop bar bike. Once you are doing longer rides it’s well worth getting, but plenty of people have fun biking on paths or to lunch and only go a few miles each way.
And Endura makes padded Boxer Briefs just for commuting and recreational riding. Wear them under whatever pants one is comfortable wearing, as an interim step to bibs. I’ve even used them on my trainer when Zwifting.
Yep, plenty of cyclists don't bother with that stuff. I have some jerseys, but I only really bother with them if I'm doing a particularly long ride, or racing at the velodrome, etc. Bike shorts seem totally unnecessary to me. I don't own anything with a chamois/padding. I'm not doing any ultra-endurance type riding, but have done several 100km rides, and my hands and neck are probably far more of a limiting factor than my butt.
For my 10km commute, I just wear my normal clothes, and roll up my right pantleg, or tuck it into my sock, if it's not shorts weather.
If I was going to recommend specialized gear, it would be rain gear, if you're going to be riding regularly in the rain. A good jacket, rain pants, and shoe covers of some sort.
yep. i believe for casual rider, normal pants is suffice.
/Maybe its duathlete/triathlete thing (or ism/shortnose saddle), but i can ride my race bike in just running compression shorts (0 padding) for 0.5-1hr just fine lel
I've never had those. Im on a single speed, rides up to 100 miles.
Good advice here. My first adult bike was an old steel hardtail mountain bike that I found at a thrift store for $75. I put a new chain and some road tires on it and rode it all over town for two years. You don't have to spend very much money at all to have fun on a bike (though it's obviously even more fun if you do).
I do disagree with the part about bicycling-specific jerseys and shorts, though; many people do find them more comfortable, but you don't actually need those special clothes to ride a bike if you're not racing. In the past few years, I've pretty much switched to "normal" clothes full-time, even on very long rides, and I can't say that I notice much of a difference, other than the occasional odd look from other cyclists.
Honestly I would buy gloves and glasses before a rear light. Don't like having bugs in my eyes. And having grip with sweaty hands is really nice. And if you end up crashing your hands are a bit protected.
I've ridden gloveless for over a decade. Only time they're ever needed is in the cold. I'm not crazy at 20-45 degrees F. I used to ride glassless when I was a noob before I got bugs in the eyes. Screw that, glasses on every ride
If you can’t afford a rear light to be safe then you’re better off off-road.
@@Cuzzazbuzzyou don’t need a rear light to be on the road if you only ride in very good conditions. But should definitely use one if you intend to ride at night or when it’s raining or overcast
@@Cuzzazbuzz depends where and when you ride. In Belgium/Netherlands its feasable to ride hours without having to use a shared road with cars. From what I have seen and judging by your profile picture, its a lot harder in your country. Not everyone is in the same situation as yourself. And in mine I prefer having protection for myself before buying lights that I don't need in that riding context. ( I do have lights on my comuter, but that one is used in the dark and on roads)
@@Cuzzazbuzz dunno, if it's not getting dark, I don't see a real need for lights
If you started cycling and find your saddle uncomfortable, "DO NOT" change the saddle, in most cases (99%) the problem is with the your position or overall bike fit.
Dunno a lot of the time bike companies put on the cheapest , lowest weights saddle on their complete bikes knowing the customer will change it. I use the same saddle and always just move it onto my next bike when the time comes.
Not true. If the saddle that comes with the bike is missing a pressure relief channel, you would likely benefit from upgrading to a cheap saddle with one
@@Laranth1 yeah it also come down to the width of sit bones. Most stock saddles will be in an average width. But if you have narrow or wide sit bones, then stock will never be comfy regardless of bike fit / position.
I agree, but there's another common thing to look out for as well. It may actually be a good fit, and it just takes a few weeks of riding before your sit bones get used to it. A new rider (or anyone who's been off the bike for a significant amount of time) will feel like their sit bones are getting bruised, and that their seat is "too hard", etc, but you'll get used to that fairly quickly, and the answer is not more padding.
If it's uncomfortable, think about _how_ it's uncomfortable. If it just feels hard, like your sit bones are bruised. Just stick with it for a while, and it'll likely go away after riding for a week or so. If there's significant pressure on things that aren't your sit bones, try adjusting the fit to get the weight onto the sit bones. This might mean a shorter/higher stem, or possibly just a slight tilt of the saddle.
If all that fails, then you might still need a different saddle, and in choosing one, don't look at gimmicks like channels, or amount of padding, as much as just trying for a good fit that supports you properly. My favourite saddle is quite flat, thin, and hard, but I've done several 100km rides on it wearing un-padded shorts, and it's not a problem.
Never bloody mind carbon Ollie, get a bike with appropriate gearing for where you live and what level of fitness you are at.... a bike you can actually cycle up the hills is better than one a kilo lighter with silly high gearing you'll end up pushing up hills.... go 30/46 by 11-36 for starters...
For an absolute beginner you might be right, but getting a nice lower end frame with a mid-range groupset would make it easier to sell on and recoup spme money if they don't stick with it.
I’d add starting off with an endurance type bike with MTB flats. 90% of us are not going to be racing, just riding for fun, and a racing geometry bike is going to be too long and too low for most people to enjoy as much.
I bought three bike-shop brand "entry level" hybrid bikes this year, one for my daughter, one for my son-in-law, and one for me, now at their house 1000 miles away, for when I'm visiting. The guys' bikes were great deals (used but rarely ridden COVID era purchases) for $450 and $325. My daughter's was new at $800, since she wanted a specific color, grips and saddle. All the equipment you mentioned for three riders, plus quality mini-tool sets and a used double toddler trailer, minus clothing, was right at $2200. So if you shop around you can outfit a whole family with quality cycling equipment on a modest budget.
When starting out I’d advise to have a very good at second hand bikes, and don’t let anybody make you believe a carbon fiber frame is any better. I’d say that quite likely on the lower and mid tier bikes you’ll most likely even get a better alu or steel frame than a carbon costing about the same. There are absolute alu gems out there that can easily compete with carbon frames. I would advise not to save on a good saddle. Good doesn’t mean light, but well designed and comfortable. Decent tires with good puncture resistance and some multitool to carry out some saddle height/tilt/fwd-afd position changes as you start. Experiment with your position on the bike in small steps.
My first bike going back to cycling was a road bike with a flat bar - so a hybrid. That and a helmet was it. In my first few months of riding, I purchased nothing else. Rode in street clothes and shoes. Experience teaches as you go so the first addition was a saddle that didn't hurt after 20 minutes, and would be good for at least two or three painless hours. Then came padded shorts, gloves, inner tubes, back pack, multi-tool, front and rear lights, a bell, chain lube, a mini pump but with a short flex hose connection. The pumps without the little hose are smaller and cheaper but they wreak havoc on the tire valve. Now, 13 years later I've accumulated more bikes, a variety of tools for taking them apart and re-assembling them, an old pot and blocks of wax for chains, cleaning brushes, various greases and yet more lubricating materials. The most indulgent thing I fell for was a bike computer and it's a lot of fun. I can put it on any bike I ride and download my day into my phone. The bike and cycling I think, is one answer to a great number of challenges we as a successful species are facing, like overcrowded, polluted cities. The impossible to control and curb use of fossil fuels. The awful amount of injury and death from speeding cars and trucks. The growing obesity in a large segment of the population together with subsequent health problems which are overwhelming our hospitals and health care systems. Cycling isn't the the only answer of course but it's a good start. Let's keep pedaling.
Nice idea to help people get into cycling : ) Maybe bring back some of your everyday people riders/commuters to see what they think about costs and real-world problems. Most commuters may need rain gear that protects work clothes, and they may not have anywhere to change in or out of bib shorts etc.
Went on a recreational ride with my son yesterday and he made the observation that a pair of glasses should be a given 👌
My first road bike was an aluminium, rim brake with claris groupset bike. If l have to go back in time, l would opt for a second hand bike with a better 105 groupset.
7:30 most phones will overheat, or “freeze” and turn off 3/4 of the year. Also, you’ll get flat battery relatively quick, not to mention putting an expensive&brittle phone at risk of damage.
Absolutely true. Use a dedicated GPS unit. I've used the same bike computers for many years. No GPS. They keep track of my mileage, max speed, average speed, cadence and, if need be, heart rate with the optional monitor. I know where I'm going and I can check my stats at any time. My phone stays stashed in my rear bike bag. If I crash, which hasn't happened in many years, it is safe and secure.
My first "proper" bike was a GT Tempest back in 1995... Cost something like £400 back then, and I replaced everything on that bike multiple times over, spent all my weekend job earnings on it!
Today bikes are stupidly expensive, and all the gear you're told you need.... All the cycling fashion etc.... we just rode out in jeans and T Shirts, no £100 jerseys and special shoes! ....it's as expensive as you want it to be.... Most people are waaaaaay over biked these days, compared to most people being under biked in the 90s
When Alex mentions a "dreaded puncture" in the intro you can see Ollie's flashback to Mallorca and his anticipation of more comments. In all seriousness, get good quality stuff, but wait until it is on sale. End of season sales are great chance to save money and give you fresh kit when the seasons turn again.
Good to know tip: If you don't feel having a bike bag you can have secondary bottle cage and use a storage bottle. For water bottle recommendation CamelBak Podium is one of the best. Because it's insulated and the nozzle is not a top pull. Just squeeze the bottle and you're good to go.
I am going to throw a caveat for the rear lights - For night riding I use 2 lights, a cheap USB on solid, and a slightly pricier Cateye that uses 2x AAA batteries on flash. The Cateye batteries last (even running flash in daytime) for a year, they use a higher quality lower energy use LEDs and the max runtime on the USB is less than 20 hours flashing so there is more of a crossover there.
Whoop a dee do! What do you want a pat on the back?
@@leonardhpls6 I'm just saying that similar USB options aren't always better. The AAA battery Cateye was still a fair amount cheaper than the top of the range USB rechargeable Cateyes which do have better battery life. Also cheaper USB lights don't always have a power indicator or only have a small additional light next to the port which flashes when the battery is almost dead because you overestimated how much power you had left. On longer rides it could stop working entirely and you're stuck. At least with my setup, if both lights fail (unlikely but not impossible) I can at least find a petrol station and grab a pack of batteries and be on my way.
love this beginner stuff, more videos like this. Uffff, just tell me. Purchased a Triban RC 120 flat bars street fighter style for long distances and to ride on my very hilly area, and I had to buy a few things to get started. First buy cost me 75€ (bike aside) and I got pumps (big at home, small to take with me), levers, helmet, multitool kit, butyl tubes, etc etc, and now I am looking into clothes for very rainy weather, and cold winter, and so on and so forth. Very happy though, cycling is like a therapy and synonymous of everything good
Something that amazed me years ago when starting out from scratch. I needed about £500 for all the kit, shoes, pedals, jacket, track pump, bottle cages etc. even the saddle bag was about £70 to buy and fill.
I've definitely spent more on kit than my road bike cost (£500)
Well at least you’re not playing golf - the gear’s at least as much and you probably have to pay for the golf rounds
❤… Where does it end? First you buy a bike, then you buy a helmet, then fancy garb, clippless pedals, bike computer, bike specific tools (including but not limited to headset and bottom bracket bearing press and derailer alignment tools), over-“SI”zed sun glasses, power meter, light weight version of everything you bought before, AERO everything…. Another bike … and the N+1 rule constantly haunts you throughout your fitness endeavors.
But don’t worry, you’ll always have GCN to encourage your every purchase along the way👍 Even if your partner disagrees.❤️
As a follow on from this video might be “my first upgrade”? Maybe GCN tech could talk us through what to spend money on after cycling for a year or so.
Axel and Ollie have officially become the presenters of the people!!!
I think a track pump is essential. You'll never get 100psi in a tube with a mini pump. Then just carry CO2 for on road punctures.
Litteraly just got a €400 bike with new 11 speed 105 and some extra new wheels second hand for my gf. Now looking for her other kit .
For those who aren’t ready to get Lycra yet, Endura, and I presume other companies, make padded boxer briefs to go under what pants you are comfortable wearing. For commuting or recreational riding, I’ve even used them on my trainer Zwifting when I did an easy, under 30min leg spin out after work.
There is no need to jump straight into lycra, there are so many great baggy options out there. Perhaps the GMBN kit could be the perfect fit 👉gmbn.eu/Jerseys
Decathlon for useable under shorts.
@@Cous1nJack I bought from my LBS to help them stay in business. But I’ve looked at the Decathlon site for their winter gloves that have a mitten shroud that flips over the fingers which seems like a brilliant design to me. Though they’ve always been out of stock since one of Katie Kookaburra’s riding mates mentioned them in one of her videos.
Despite spending much of the 90’s racing, these days on a ride I wear a pair of tracksuit bottoms over my bib shorts to avoid looking too much like a M.A.M.I.L 😂😂😂😂
Chris Boardman 9.6 carbon. Great bike. 105 mechanical group set Great bike. I swapped to 28’s though great for speed and comfort.
Trek emonda alr . The tires I swapped out .but what a great bike .good old reliable 105 group set🍺
The 8.6 and 8.9 are very well reviewed and reasonably priced gravel bikes if that's your thing too.
Nice video. My one question is: What is wrong with a good, old fashioned frame pump? I have Zefal HPx frame pumps on my regular road bike and my tandem. They are inexpensive, last forever and will quickly pump a tire up to a good pressure. I'm not some Luddite who doesn't like new technology. Those mini-pumps are basically useless and take forever and even the CO2 cartridge inflation devices can be limited. I had the second flat that I've had in the last three or four years. Checked the tire, popped in the new tube and in no time I was on my way. No fuss, no muss. You also should have a front light. Traffic may not see you and turn in front of you or pull out from a side street. Reflective clothing is not enough if they aren't coming directly towards you. You may get stuck riding at night for one reason or another. A decent, rechargeable front light can be a life saver.
My Zefal frame pump from the mid 90’s is still going strong too!
I would say if you starting in cycling, no matter if it's road, gravel or mtb, get a pair of mtb shoes, you have cheaper options and are more polyvalent than road shoes. Also mtb pedals are easier to use, since you can clip on both sides.
I was going to bring that up, myself. I've been using Shimano off road pedals with Diadora Geko shoes forever. Easy to repair, also.
Lots of good advice here! I would add a few things only: the track pump is a must and you can buy ones at a pretty low cost and it certainly beats spending so much time and effort to use a minipump at home; I always ride with gloves as you never know when you might come off and graze your knuckles, which really hurts; after years of avoiding it I got tired of yelling at clueless pedestrians and broke down, equipping each of my bikes with a discreetly mounted bell (also cheap).
Almost 100% agree, I‘d only get the track pump before the saddle bag.
Great advices, but please add a front light. At night and rainy days is very hard for drivers to see cyclists without front light in the side mirrors.
I suppose for me, i wouldnt cheap out on 3 things: helmet, bibs, or touchpoints on a bike. And good tires too. A helmet is the cheapest life insurance you can buy on a bike. By far. A GOOD SET of Bib shorts will keep you comfortable for longer, and touchpoints will too. Good saddle thats the right width and shape for you, (at the right tilt too), good bar tape, bars the right width, and stem the correct length. Good tires will keep you on the road for longer with plenty of grip, and performance to boot. Spend money in these places. And one thing that you dont need to spend any money on? Stretch. Stretch those legs out. And back. Pro cyclists do this EVERY day. And theres a reason for that.
Chain cleaning kit is a must and learn that chains rarely lasts as long as one might have hoped for.
Very good list. Speaking of tubes and tire levers, you should learn how to change your tire through practice. You do not need to have an actual flat to do this, rather learn how to do all of the activities. This will save you grief when it actually happens, which it will.
Also, get a patch kit and learn how to patch a tube. In case you get another puncture😢. Cheers.
I started with a sensible road bike pre COVID, and through shutdown, figured out precisely what i wanted…now have a shed of multiple “garden tools”, racks of kit, and a separate pain cave. Falling off the cliff is an understatement.
16:38 Great list guys. I always try to consider any "extra" money I may spend as a small investment in the local cycling community. Always support a good LBS when you can! It's one way to help support better cycling advocacy in your local area as a good LBS is often one of the strongest voices or a common hub for cycling advocacy.
Always good to get more people into cycling .. it will give most people lots of fun. And good for fitness and wellbeing too
Really good helpful video for beginners contemplating getting into it. Thanks!
02:30 totally agree with this. Started on a £450 Specialised crosstail flat bar that I upgraded to Tiagra before going to Halfords of all places for a £1.5k Boardman carbon SLR with 105 and I've never looked back. Looking at the cost of going to Ultegra or Dura Ace you have to look at the cost of replacing components that are gonna wear out. 105 saw the biggest gains and how much are you going to notice further up. Groupset of the people...People. Great vid again guys
For lights with batteries though: you can get rechargeable batteries! So you don't have to burn through lots of batteries, you can just take them out and recharge them. Plus, you can bring a spare battery with you in case you run out and swap batteries during your ride.
You can also find inexpensive, rechargeable lights. My front headlight recharges with a mini-usb cable. Plug it in after a ride that you had to use it and it is ready to go fairly quickly. Mine stays charged for quite a long time and has an indicator to keep and eye on the charge.
Also, it's likely to be easier to buy new batteries while out riding than charge a USB light.
Buy from your local bike shop, Always leave with something in addition that you'd not planned on, don't flash your cash but act like you need advice always.... eventually the team will be awesome next time you need a new bike and you're giving employment to bike needs and passionate bikers. Win, win
One time when I went grocery shopping, I've come to find that my bicycle was completely fine but that I was completely naked. Somehow those bike thieves managed to run off with $300 dollars' worth of threads without a trace. I'm going to have to invest on a better bicycle gear lock for myself.
💯💯💯Cycling is an EXPENSIVE sport 💯💯💯 Bike, Helmet, Cycling Kit, Bike Computer, Bike Pump, Bike Lights (front and rear), Inner Tubes or sealant, Tire Lever, Saddle Bag, Bottle and Bottle Cage, Pedals and cycling shoes, Cycling shades, and the list goes on and on and on... 😭😭😭
Middle isle (Lidl or Aldi) is a great place to get inexpensive but good quality cycling kit (including track pumps snd tools). In the South west of England we have a shop called Proper Job. They have good basic hand tools at good prices. I would recommend both for beginners.
I wonder when GCN Tech will cover Shimano CUES, seems like a big game changer not to cover. :(
It's definitely been covered by at least one of the channels. If not GCN Tech then maybe GMBN Tech. GCN mostly looks at drop bar bikes while I think CUES is only on flat bars for the moment.
I checked the 20 or so other channels and nothing shows up.@@glenni249
It’s low end oem fitting below slx on mtb and 105 on road. It’s not an off the shelf upgrade
There are a few points I respectfully disagree with in an otherwise very helpful video:
Forgo a cheap carbon frame and go for a nice aluminum frame, they are cheaper and very well designed and frees up money for better group set and tires.
I only use bike lights that have removeable batteries. Rechargeable batteries lose their charge over time and can corrode. Easily replace your batteries with Ikea rechargeable batteries ($4 a pair) instead of forking out another $40-$100 for a new light when batteries go bad.
Get to know an avid cyclist that is your height and buy their old gear (except helmets and bib shorts, always buy new). They will also give you advice where you can shop for a great deal and help you shop used. Your friend will always give you a great deal and solid advice because it means they'll always have friend to ride with.
One more thing on the subject of your kit: I've gotten in the good habit of rinsing my kit directly to get all of the sweat and road dust out of it with just water before I hop into my postride shower. Like a prewash for your bike, this takes the dirt factor from "dear lord, what did you ride through?!" down to a more moderate level of soil. Then they tended to come much cleaner when washed with soap afterwards because they've been prewashed.
Wear triathlon kit and wash it in the shower.
Let’s be honest, nobody needs more than 105. Always had ultegra but shocked how good 105 is. Kinda wasted my money
105 is plenty. Shifts 90% as well as my dura ace
Right. 105 is good enough even for amateur but competitive racers! Some years ago GCN did a video with their guys blinded trying to tell the difference between 105, Ultegra and Dura Ace only by sound and feelings and they were hardly noticeable. But people think and feel using more expensive stuff make them fast and more flashy.
Just picked up my first gravel bike a Specialized Diverge E5 couple of years old second hand paid $1000 New Zealand dollars including freight from other end of the country (equivalent to $481 pounds sterling) got some new bbb spd pedals for $5 Nz and a pair of great bike shoes for $40 Nz from a thrift shop which were in as new condition …only thing I need to get now is some clothing…doing ok getting in the game so far
Great video and great advice. I’d say after a bike don’t stint on shorts. That took me to my third go to find good padding. I’d also add a front light (be seen, be safe) and I would recommend a track pump. They have a good enough gauge and stop any faffing pumping up your tyres and giving you an excuse to not get out on your bike.
A sign of a good and honest bike shop is that they refer you to their competitors if they don't have stock of whatever you need.
I never got on with bibs, so it’s either waist shorts, or in summer, a onesie, which is a game changer.
Interesting. I will say, bibs are as varied as anything else, like a saddle. Some straps are soft, woven, others stiffer and tighter. My first chamois was with shorts, but I'm all for bibs nowadays
Great video guys and your timing is impeccable, just ordered my first bike in 40 years lol! Apparently things have changed since my BSA Javelin back in the 70’s. Classic case of the budget being no problem but the experience being at the bottom of the scale and a reality check of reigning in my enthusiasm. Bit nervous I have to say but really excited as well. Thanks again it’s been super helpful video.
What did you get? I’m in a similar situation though budget is important to me. I like the hype of the gravel bike but not sure about drop bars or groupsets.
@@deifor I bought a Trek fx3 in the end thinking the straight handle bars would be the best way to go. After three months my fitness has raised significantly and already done several 100k+ rides. Really improved my mental health as well. Just ordered a Fairlight Strael for my first drop handle bike, really fancied old school steel bike and really impressed with there philosophy and website. One thing is for certain returning to cycling, even at 62 has been a huge positive in my life.
Good luck with whatever you choose
Really useful for beginners - I wish I got great advice like this when I started! 🤩
True story. Had I not let myself get sucked into road cycling marketing, I would have already bought a house.
If your employer offers cycle to work that can be advantageous. Also you might find that MTB or Hybrid bikes offer better value or are cheaper than road bikes. If depends on whether you want to go fast or not and what you want to do on your bike. I have recently replaced and upgraded components, including tyres on my hybrid bike as I am looking to do bike touring/packing next year, and my local bike shop did the servicing and upgrade which was quick and good.
I’ve been cycling since I was 12 I don’t know why I watched this whole video through 😂
Same here. I just watch them to see what advice that they offer.
Same here, but then I read the comments as well
Thank you Alf and Dr O ...Pedro's tire levers. Multi tool , mini-pumps suck , in general . Get GOOD tools , AND , bring someone with you that rides where you will , so you get the right bike ? I had hand me down everything as a kid , first new one was at 40 yrs old .Hybrid cuz I was dumb !!!!
Mini-pumps are basically useless. You might as well take out the stem and blow into it. I've had my Zefal HPx frame pumps since the eighties and they still work fine. You can buy the internal parts for cheap if need be and replace them in a few minutes. I can pump-up my road tires in a couple of minutes from flat and I can count the flats that I've had in the last fifteen years or so on one hand.
An educated guess before watching the video. Around 2k for a half decent bike (it doesn't have to be super aero/light with a 12x drive train) and the kit to ride all year round
One other suggestion. Get a patch kit, and learn to patch your tubes. You can leave the patch kit at home. take a spare tube. When you get a flat, bring the punctured tube home, patch it, test it with a little bit of air to make sure it's sealed up well, and put it back in your bag as a spare for next time. a $5 patch kit will let you reuse the same $5 tube many times over.
First bike was a used Specialized Allez Sprint. Sold it for same price I got it for after 4600 miles - upgraded to a Cervelo Caledonia :)
Thanks guys. When I discovered GCN about 5 years ago, I immediately bought some GCN/Castelli kits. Though a bit more money, this was the best investment I ever made. I still have them, and have added to the collection from the GCN shop ever since. Super comfortable and worth every penny. Quality over quantity is the rule of the day.
I just got my first bike last month. Canyon CF7 with a Shimano 105 (group set of the people!) I’m using her indoors right now to train and avoid having to buy a lot of winter kit.
It's a good idea to also check local laws for some requirements e.g. there are light brightness requirements for front and rear lights when cycling at night here in Sydney
Good beginners lycra is out there from brands that do also sell things to upgrade to down the line but I say to everyone that asks me spend a real amount to begin with spend between £30-£60 on a pair of shorts and roughly the same on a Jersey
Great topic! Getting people into cycling, what do you need to get going! Maybe do this again in march at the start of spring and better weather!
When I first bought a motorbike the protective clothing cost more than the 8th hand learner motorbike.
Other pieces of kit I would add to the cycling list would be a front light just in case you get caught out in the dark also a bell if you are going to use a canal towpath.
Wish I'd had this vid 6 months ago when I went through this!
Useful tip (if you're in the UK), a certain insurance price comparison website offers £20 vouchers to a certain large chain that sells bikes and accessories. I'm aware a lot of people hate this certain chain, but £20 or (£40 if you have both car and home insurance to renew) to spend on lights, bottles, cages, spares etc is useful to a beginner like me.
Also the two budget supermarkets in the UK have promos periodically in their "middle aisles" (you can probably work out who they are!) and sell clothes, work stands, accessories and cleaning products. The quality varies on these but some are good IME.
Lastly, I didn't go for bibs. I'm not going fast enough to worry about lycra, I chose Endura Hummvee cargo shorts and use running/gym wicking t-shirts as my jersey and wear trail runners for now. Had the running kit anyway (switch to cycling is due to old knees!) so saved some cash there.
Why be so vague? Why not mention Halfords, Aldi, Lidl? If people can't work it out your comment is pointless.
First rule of fight club
@@Cous1nJack 😅
I don't have alot of money thanks to being underpaid for decades, so I started out in 2004 w/a 60 lb purple Magna I got on sale for $60 at Target. Did I have to get off and push it uphill? You bet, but then I got my weight-bearing exercise. Went all over LA w/it. Many of the Hispanic families in my area are living on less than $30,000/yr. Even a $300-$500 bike is too much if they have 3 kids. I say check for good second-hand bikes or watch for the sales.
Beginner bike wheels can come with Shrader sized valve holes. If this is the case you can go pump tyres up at petrol stations. Otherwise you can also use a Shrader/Presta adapter which costs around 2 euros.
Well I'm just going through that and I'm shocked how expensive some stuff are.
Till now i bought:
Giant TCR advanced 1 with 105 di2 - 2600 euros
Shimano pedals - 80 euros
NW shoes - 140 euros
Bottle cages - 30 euros for pair
Bottles - 30 euros for pair
Specialized Propero 4 helmet - 200 euros
Sportful bib shorts - 100 euros
Decathlon bib shorts - 70 euros
3 Decathlon jerseys - 70 euros
2 pairs of Decathlon socks - 20 euros
And just ordered Garmin 840 bundle and Garmin Varia which iz 670 euros combined - i have been using Suntoo race watch for "bike computer" but Varia is a must for safety and I soon realized bike computer is must also.
So I am bare minimum in (without the pump, multitool and repare kit) with entry level bike and the cost is 4010 euros.
Then in a year add powermeter for 700 euros, carbon wheelset+new tires for 1000 euros and smart trainer foe around 600 euros and u are in for around 6300 euros. And everyone I know that gets really into cycling buys those 3 things.
Point of my post is don't expect to spend 1000 euros for entry level bike and you are done because that is definitely not the case.
I Agree I recently got a Specialized Allez Sport 2016 105 group set for £225 total bargain :-)
Sadly my local cycle shop closed 2 years ago so shop on line
yup, I ilve in a isolated mountainous area and there isn't a bike shop nearby. My new road bike was perfectly delivered but for instance the chain tension wasn't good so in the chainring, so the transition from the small 34T chainring to the 48T one wasn't smooth (it was okay the other way around), I had to press the lever twice instead of once. So I called the shop and they told about a little nut you can turn around on your lever and adjust the tension from there until you find the perfect tension. I managed to find the ideal spot and now the bike changes the front gears like a champ in a single touch
I got the Giro Aether black flash for a bit over $100 on Amazon.
GOOD RECOMMENDATIONS
Muy buen definido sobre las modernas bicicletas
Front light as well
I have a 3T stem. The stem has a removable piece and you can install a Garmin 1000 mount. When I bought this part (not the stem) I paid 80-90 Euros + shipping. The Garmin 1000 Edge was another 500 Euros from a LBS. I bought the stem for just 400 Euros. I had a lot of disposable income then. The Sram 22 Red with hydraulic rim brakes groupset was another 3K. All thins back in 2016. The Specialized frame was 1K (used). I even purchased all the bolts in anodized red to match the frame color
I got a Garmin 500 for five dollars. Even comes with the k edge aero mount. Plenty of battery, does everything I need
Is cycling more formal and structured in the UK? My point is the commentary about cycling clothes. Should beginners be concerned about this? I envision beginners starting out on urban/hybrid/fitness style bikes for which specialty clothing is not needed. But ok, I guess you'll need to learn about clothing eventually.
On a road bike, cycling shorts are basically a requirement pretty quickly. Once you are riding over 20 km at a go, it's going to be uncomfortable. There are so many people who sit on a road bike and say, "This saddle is crap. Why is there no padding?" I think it's good to tell people up front that it's a cost you need to prepare for.
pfff, My first bike costed 45 euros and was so terrible (performance was for 45 euro too). But joy of riding the bike is no the cost of it. After 10 years I have 4 different bikes, for different roads I use to ride. And the joy is still here. Knowledge and understanding comes slow.
Another gret vid guys😊
Most cheap bikes are fairly well-equipped nowadays. However, the saddles they come with are horrendous, padding in all the wrong places, and usually people wrongly assume padded means comfort which is far from the truth.
Excelente trabajo 👏
Another winner of a video lads, nice one. Halfords will do you a 750 ml bottle for £4 though.
I'd strongly suggest decent shoes. A stiff sole with a cleat will be much comfier than trainers...
TyreGlider is an excellent tyre lever, bit of a game changer!
What you need is a bike, helmet, F&R light to get started. Most people don't ride far from home to start with. Then you can add extra stuff to go further.
Making sure once you bought it your COMFORTABLE on it. If you can only ride for 30 minutes or 60 without pain you need to refit and retest your position. I never got this till about 20 years after riding. When I gave up work to ride 4000km rides I had to fix this issue good and proper.
For new riders is probably a make or break so if any niggle is a niggle fix it.
Buy a regret bike - there are lots of hardly used big discount bikes for second hand sale for excellent low prices. Just make sure the bike frame is your size. Everything else can be modified later.
El mundo del ciclismo es fascinante
Excelente trabajo
Excelente video genial 😁 👍
Saludos desde Perú
I think it should be said, that you can skip the cycling specific clothing if you're just starting out. For the saddlebag, get one that will fit your phone, wallet, keys, and a tube. Then you don't have all that junk rattling around in your pockets while you ride. For saddles, be concerned mostly with fit/shape, and how it supports you, and not what initially feels comfortable. The saddle should be holding you up primarily by your sit bones, and not be pushing up into your crotch. Moderately stiff/hard saddles are not as bad as they initially seem. You'll probably get sore sit bones for a little while when you get started, but you do get used to that, and it could be a good saddle once you're used to it. Lots of people go to a really big soft saddle to try and fix this, but they're generally too wide and will restrict your pedaling, and will distribute the weight off your sit bones, and only other parts less equipped to dealing with it longer-term.
On the bike, stay away from department store bikes, unless you have a friend who's a good mechanic who can both direct you to a bike that's at least compatible with modern parts (for repairs, etc), and can basically pull it apart, and properly reassemble it with you to make sure it's safely/correctly assembled, and even then, the wheels are likely not great, and that's not a cheap thing to fix. From a cost perspective, most likely only the best few bikes they have will be any good, and the price difference between the highest-end department store bike, and the lowest end bike in a real bike shop isn't going to be huge, and it'll probably be a better bike, assembled by someone who knows what they're doing, and should be void of obsolete technologies that are hard to service (one piece cranks, threaded headsets, janky old super flimsy brakes, etc)
Team rim brake have it much cheaper.... and better