Crosskart Build #4: Steering
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- Added music because this seemed a little dry to me, maybe it is because it's my second run through of this. I tried to do this one to explain mounting a rack for any kart builder, not just this one, so I hope it helps a broader range. Thank you everyone.
-Kyle
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Videos are for entertainment only, work performed in the video should only be accomplished by a professional technician. KJ Raycing will not be held liable for ANY personal injuries. - บันเทิง
Very nice design and thought process that was well thought out with future adaptations planned for! Nice planning! Just a note about correct tie rod length. The outer end should also line up with the two pivot points of the ball joints to achieve zero bump steer. The toe is then adjusted with clevises you made for the end of the rack. That way it doesn't matter where the rack is located uo or down. You probably won't ever notice any darting with suspension compression with yours though as your tie rods are so close to being perfect. Again awesome job with this chassis design-smart man you are!
Recently found your channel, loving every second of this series! Planning my first kart build 😊
Thank your for very informative and fun to follow videos!
Heck yeah man!! So glad you will be joining in on the fun! And thank you very much!
Mantap bang... saya juga lagi proses bikin mini buggy...😊🙏👍
Awesome info, nicely explained. Thanks
What are you coming up with, for a track width hub to hub ?
Your thought process is always so smooth. I love the creative process.
Thank you very much 👍
Where can I get the plans
Links to everything in the description, I thought you were kidding the first time because the title of the video had “link to plans in the description”
Very good advice again KJ, you are explaining your technique and reasons so well. 😎
What kind of metal is it? And size? Thx
I don't think I heard you say how much travel it has. I bought your parts list, but I cannot find any listings for this Rack and Pinion that tell me the total travel. Do you know the total travel?
Edit: Found the info, here it is
Rack Pinion 14-Inch 5/8-36 Shaft Badlands Sand Mini Rail Dune Buggy ST0002
14-3/16" from eye to eye
3-1/3 lbs.
Pinion travels 3/4 of a turn from center to lock.
Rack travels 2-1/2" from center to lock.
Distance between inner mounting holes is 1-5/16"
Distance between outer mounting holes is 2-1/4".
Width of body is 1-1/4".
5/8" x 36 spline input pinion shaft
Well it has as much travel as you set it up for… the shocks I use and where I mount them on the arm give me the spring rate I’m after for a smooth ride and for jumping. Does the number matter if it works perfectly? No sarcasm intended, just stating my mindset when building these. Since they are secondhand shocks not purposely built for these machines I use math instead of travel goals. Buying custom shocks will get you the travel number you are looking for but get your wallet ready 😁. I’m glad you found the rack.
@@KJRaycing for competition, the number does not matter, as it will work well enough, but I am competing in BAJA SAE, and I need to give proof of it working and how well it works using math. Thanks for the insight!
Sorry man I thought you were talking about suspension travel! But the same mindset goes into the rack. Since I don’t build my own front knuckles there isn’t adjustment for how much radius I can get. I will tell that at low speeds because of the live axle the front end will push if you turn it too far, but when you are in a big drift the extra steering is magical.
Should of welded a nut on the back instead of the all-tread rod that way you can replace treaded rod length if needed to fine tune steering.
I’ve actually swapped to using graded bolts. Works out a lot better. Check out the newer budget build video if you want to know more.
Veri nice
Una pregunta amigo tus llantas más bien tu discos que trae dónde lo consigues por qué tras disco o como se llama esa masa con disco
Good stuff man. 👍 just a suggestion... all thread is typically grade ???-to-5. A grade 8 bolt with the head cut off would be much stronger. Also the 1.75" long (stud part) could be sleeved with a piece of tubing to really lock it in once bump steer was dialed out.
Definitely an option. I haven’t had any trouble with the ones i made before. A pretty good flip with my buddy at the wheel taco’d a front a arm, but no damage to the rod end (or my buddy 👍). Graded bolts may weld up better, next ones i’ll probably do that.
@@KJRaycing in my past builds I've designed the suspension pivot points to the rack width. (Usually a 14" Stiletto rack) but if i needed the rack to have a wider eye to eye width I would extend the rack shaft by making a threaded female coupling with the same o.d. and same threaded hole as the rack shaft itself. Without a lathe it still could be done in a drill press with a solid setup. Make a stud from a bolt and red locktite the new piece to the rack. Now you have a rack that is super solid what ever width you need. Another trick, leave the hiem joint on the rack and put your Clevis end on your tie rod. Depending on the quad A-arms you're using and how the stock bellcrank steering was setup the tie rods almost always has to be modified anyway. Love the channel man, keep up the good work 👍
grade bolts do not weld well they go brittle, steering pull should only be in tension and compression so shear should not be a problem
Thank you for that. Strength of the bolt did not seem crazy important and this explains it very well.
@@autoboss2Grade 8 bolts do not go "brittle" after welding. They may in fact be annealed by the application of welding heat and slow cooling (never should be quenched as that is a hardening method). Low grade bolts are never used in steering assemblies as it is a safety issue. Grade 8 may not be necessary but for me a grade 5 at least would ease my conscience.
I just bought the plans and had intended on getting started this week. The end of this video make me nervous I won't fit. I'm 6'3" and about 275lbs, will I fit comfortably with a helmet on?
I’ve had buddies as tall and taller drive the black one with helmets on (required). It was tight but worked out for them, i added an additional 4 inches of headroom so i dont see it being a problem for you. There should be a video Wednesday of driver “fit-up” that will answer a lot of these questions. The crosskart dimensions video will give you a good overview of how much room there is. Thank you for getting on board with this, it’s going to be quite a ride!
Como conseguir um projeto deste mode de kart cross? 🙏
Your one smart man!!
I understood everything you were explaining. Great teacher.
Thank you
Dan
Thank you Dan, those are very nice compliments 👍
I was wandering how you set up the atv spindles for steering rack?Can't find video.
th-cam.com/video/mM64wCt9g1M/w-d-xo.html
What brand of steering rack did you use? Thanks!!
Empi or latest rage 14” rack.
Thank you KJ, for educating us 🤙. Greetings
Yes, sir. It is my pleasure!
Gauge and material of pipe you use in making of frame???
Details are in the plans and other videos of the build series… here is an overview of the plans and materials for the kart: th-cam.com/video/5OPYCRXcTis/w-d-xo.html
👍nicely done. You make it look easy. Thanks for another good one
!!!!!
Killing it brother!
you can modify akerman by moving the rack some inches forward or backwards
I know about that adjustment but, the arms off the hubs are facing the wrong direction. I’m stuck with reverse ackerman, i will use that to tune as much out as i can though.
@@KJRaycing yes, but even with that hubs, if you move the rack forward (dont know if possible on the chassis), you can get some akerman w/o using toe, dont think there will be any side effects except for a possible reduction on turn radius.
With that rack you need to be careful if you hit any rocks with the front tires you an brake the mounting holes and the rack can move and make your kart not steer I had it happen if the shell of it was steel it would probably be fine
I made that to kind of be a weak point of the steering. I can carry extra rod ends but not really an extra rack. I’ve hit a tree twice, once broke the welds on the end and the other bent the tie rod, I was able to still drive in both situations and it shows I have a pretty well designed setup. Thank you for the input 👍
@@KJRaycing your welcome I end up on my side and have a broken rack that's the only reason I said anything. Hope I didn't upset you with it
I try to look at comments objectively and learn from everywhere I can. It’s hard to do that if you are offended by everything 👍. Keep sending the suggestions, I read all of them and try to make my works better.
@@KJRaycing the bolt hole on the left side broke off of the rack it's self not the cart it sucked
How many feet of tube is in this buggy?
I can’t say for sure right now, i’m out with the fam. I’d say 80-100 feet if you make your own a arms. I like to get extra so i dont have to reorder if a piece gets a finicky.
It’s about 1000 bucks to make the chassis and a arms if that is what you are after.
super👍👍
Thanks!!!
When will the plans be sent out.
Did you buy plans? They are a digital download. The link is in the invoice e-mail if you did.
@@KJRaycing yes I did the day they became available
Jan 8th
Check your e-mail for for a message from dpd. There is a link to download the plans. Then you can print them and put them in a binder.
When I look at the frt spindle/knuckle at time 7.59 on video, it looks like the front end geometry is goofy, the snout that the hub rotates on is leading the centerline between the top and bottom ball joints. On an atv I'd guess that's built in castor, but swapped to frt steer it now positive castor. My question is, are you driving that kart in that configuration, and does it handle well? I'm not knocking at all, love the video series, just a question.
Thank you for the comment and the compliment. The castor is correct and built partly into the angle of the chassis. The steering geometry does make the ackerman incorrect. This is all covered and I talk about how I correct for it; and you can watch the driving videos to see that they perform really well with this setup.
Hey, Great job!....Was wondering, i'm interested in building one of these, however, I would like to know how tall you are? Can the cart be made "stretched" a little for us taller folk? I'm 6'3" and concerned about leg room and Head room with a helmet on....?
Thank you very much! I’m about 6’ tall, but I’ve had taller guys drive these and love it. I did design this to be stretched pretty easily. Check out the budget build series to see how I stretched the chassis…. th-cam.com/play/PL_0jaO0givVyoQZ5FVB1PrG3Dws37u6Yn.html