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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Tips on belaying with the rope on the plateau when out in the winter hills.
So you've reached the summit plateau. Success! Now you need to bring your partner up. Belaying on a wind-swept and snow-covered plateau poses some tricky challenges.
This short video shows you things to look out for and how to set up a safe and solid belay.
This is one of a series of instructional films produced exclusively for BMC TV in association with AMI (the Association of Mountaineering Instructors), Lowe Alpine and DMM.
www.ami.org.uk/
lowealpine.com/
dmmclimbing.com/
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You're very lucky if you find this perfect rock to make belay. Most of the time if you find one the rope won't slide well around the rock and you'll need to use a sling or something. Very often there is simply no good rock and you'll need to find another solution
big up da big si dog
The boulder might be strong enough, but I doubt there's enough friction on the snow surrounding it to help you hold your mate of he slips/falls. How about pretending that boulder is your rucksack and proceed as with a bucket seat (video 2.7) without the bucket? Extra friction around your arm, boulder will hold you in place.
That depends on the angle of the slope though, a lower angle slope will require less friction to halt a fall, as there will be less force generated by the falling climber when compared to steep slope.
You can easily hold someone's weight wrapping the rope around a snowy rock.
Dude, carry more than one sling. They don't weigh that much