That butterfly knot is very nifty, so often your sling isn't quite long enough to do an overhand. Obviously not ideal as there's still a risk of shock loading but the next best thing!
Clear communication by means of storytelling or tugs can still be optimized by means of walkie-talkies attached to your pack at mouth level. Saying 'Joe, I'm safe. Over' as if Joe is standing next to you is enough. Same with the next rope commands. Tried and tested in wind and weather.
Time stamp 3:06 Maybe. But if you know you're safe, and you know there's a moment when you are not clipped in it's a calculated risk to save a bit of time. It's down to the individual and what they are comfortable with.
NB holding the dead rope while belaying Joe the way you do nullifies the braking function of your belay device! The braking hand should be moving all the way back to your hip to let it brake in the event of a fall. That's why I use a half hitch while belaying from above (associated rope tangling can be avoided).
Bit unnecessary. Assuming you are experienced there's always time to pull the dead rope into the locked position if the live rope goes right. The additional effort of braking with each pull of the rope would be a waste.
Amazing video a very clean lesson.
This lady gives me much confidence like I would summit Everest with her 😅 she knows what she's doing.
Cracking series of vids, thank you.She is also my hero.
This is an awesome instruction video!!
A great set of instructional videos. Excellent.
Outstanding series from BMC. definitely ex military 👍
Really good video and entire series. Thank you for doing this.
and it’s crazy that it’s free! i luv the internet
Thanks for sharing !
That butterfly knot is very nifty, so often your sling isn't quite long enough to do an overhand. Obviously not ideal as there's still a risk of shock loading but the next best thing!
I just found out about that one recently....some people call it the shelf without a master point or SWAMP for short.
That knot is a hero! Just make sure that the knot is not facing the rock side, it might damaged if it's rubbing against the rock.
Great video! Who's the guide? She's my hero!!
Second that question.
Thanks
Great video!
"go home for tea and medals" Love it!!
Great stuff, many thanks
someone should do this in one of those Masterclass series, that would be awesome
The knot bit spun my brain
Good stuff.
What happens if you’re toward the top and your belay partner gets snapped away when Thanos snaps his fingers?
Clear communication by means of storytelling or tugs can still be optimized by means of walkie-talkies attached to your pack at mouth level. Saying 'Joe, I'm safe. Over' as if Joe is standing next to you is enough. Same with the next rope commands. Tried and tested in wind and weather.
and if they run out of battery in the cold?
it's better to learn without.
what model Rab gloves are these please?
Why not use ice tool for belay at the top? Is it Scottish thing?
Look at the depth and quality of the neve up on the plateau, there's never even close to enough for a buried axe.
She should have clipped in before unclipping in the beginning
Time stamp 3:06
Maybe. But if you know you're safe, and you know there's a moment when you are not clipped in it's a calculated risk to save a bit of time.
It's down to the individual and what they are comfortable with.
NB holding the dead rope while belaying Joe the way you do nullifies the braking function of your belay device! The braking hand should be moving all the way back to your hip to let it brake in the event of a fall. That's why I use a half hitch while belaying from above (associated rope tangling can be avoided).
Bit unnecessary.
Assuming you are experienced there's always time to pull the dead rope into the locked position if the live rope goes right.
The additional effort of braking with each pull of the rope would be a waste.