Just subscribed. Came across your video by chance as amateur DIY'er. Excellent video, very informative, great number of helpful tips, especially using packers on the floor to easily check visually that the levels are correct. Great detailed but concise in depth explanations
Wow, incredible detail for the job. Thats a trait thats very hard to find my friend. Thank you for the great video and i am sure that customer was super impressed with your work!!
From America ... this was a fabulous video. Yes I learned quite a bit, and your embedding into the video situations on tongue and groove, standard butt joint flooring, different level, ... all of it was terrific. Thank you.
Truly brilliant video and so very well explained even for total novices. The skills you have are amazing. How fast you can achieve everything. Wow! That floor is perfection. Thankyou for the video.
Hi we are in Ireland, I think you are back home but if you were here I would ask you to do this work. Question please? Can we use a 20mm backer board to increase insulation on a wooden suspended floor like the one you show? (we don't want to take up floorboards as too messy). Then we intend to put carpet over it in living rooms. Lino floor covering in the Kitchen. PS if you are interested in doing this job and more jobs, let me know.
Hi . Thank you for your offer and for your message. Unfortunately i will not travel this year as I have a lot going on here. This insulation is for a solid cover ( tiles , flooring). I don’t think to be a good idea to use it for carpet and linoleum. So maybe use laminate flooring in stead otherwise you need to use different backer boards, or plywood.
can you tell me the names of that that material you were using bicoz I was to tile on top of the wood as well and we're can I get those boards (names please)
Thank you. It is a primer for wood . SBR bond primer for Ball is one of the best . Primer G from Mapei is also good. Need to be applied from the can without any water mix .
Hi Valentino! Great video, one question: I have many tubes running through the wooden floor. What do I use to close these gaps so I can use the selfleveling compound? It is the bathroom so should be watertight…
I am tiling my new bathroom floor tomorrow. My first time tiling over wood, and I was dubious about how flexible the adhesive would be. I happened to have bought the same Dunlop adhesive you used and am now reassured it won't end in failure, well, not because of the adhesive anyway! :o)
Hi can this be applied to bathroom? Do we still use the same chemicals? I was thinking also maybe on top of the backerboard using membrane? So questions can be listed like this: -Cement boards or backer boards? -6m or 12 mm? -Im assuming i will still use primer that you used. No PVA?(on floorboards) -Do i need membrane on top of the cement/backer board? -the spactula. There are different size of gaps. do i use the small tooths or big ones?
Hi -cement board as it is more rigid. -12mm is better then 6mm if you an use . -you still need to use primer on the wood. -there is no need to install membrane over the cement board.
@@valentinointeriors3023 If you dont mind few more questions come to my mind. 1- Why 12 mm ? I guess i can make it 12 but its gonna make things go higher ofc. I have floorboards so i cannot remove them. instead of making 12 if i make 6 would i regret it? 2-Do i need to put some sort of water resistance chemical on top of the cement board? 3-As the door will be on the way, i guess i will have to shave from the bottom of the door correct? Thanks a lot
Hi , thanks for your feedback For a walk in shower you definitely need a backer board if you have floor boards. If there is tongue and groove boards ( chipboard or osb ) you can use Ditra mats. Very important to waterproof the shower area. Walls , floor and corners.
@@valentinointeriors3023 Thank you, I will have a look at that, just planning now and preparing budget and strategy 😊 I want to install the floor heating as well. I subscribed to your channel and will check other videos. Keep up the good work with videos here. You are a lot of help for people like me 😊
Thank you so much, I am renovating my kitchen and have tongue and groove boards and I though I will have to rip everything up and install OSB to level the floor. You save my life. 👍
Thanks for this step by step tutorial. I've followed your instructions/guidance and made a mistake with the floor levelling compound. The floor slopes! Would you recommend adding more levelling compound to the shallow end or make it up with a thicker layer of tile adhesive?
Hi , thank you for your message Depends how much it is . If is a small area and is not higher then 2cm you can make this with tile adhesive. Just make sure you have full coverage under the tile .
Hi’ Good work. I want to do the same work in the bathroom on the first floor. The floor is made of wood, and I want to use 1200mm/600mm tiles on the wall and floor. What adhesive for wall and floor tile's I use? Thank you in advance.
Hi . Depending where about you are. If you are in Uk you can use adhesives from Ball , Topos tiles , or Mapei . The adhesive has to be flexible and is very important to use a primer before. Any of this adhesives will do the job . Thank you for your appreciation.
thank you for your last response, I would like to ask you if SBR bond is good for primer and for BAL flex ONE tile adhesive to glue the tile boards and or even to glue the 1200mm / 600 mm tiles thank you for your response advice in advance yes I in UK
@@benzrom5096 Hi . Yes , you use the SBR for priming and the adhesive to glue the boards and tiles . Bal flex one is a good adhesive. If you are priming a wood surface do not dilute the primer.
thank you very much for your quick response I have another question because you are in the construction field, there are people who say when they cover a wood floor with vinyl or tiles that the wood floor will rot because the steam water cannot escape it is true or false thank you and good luck.
@@benzrom5096 Hi . That is false. The steam , moisture should never escape through ceilings, floors or walls. The humidity should escape through windows or extractor fans. I will not be worried about this at all. Thank you
Thank you for your work, it is really helpful. I would have an unusual question: How easy to remove that you installed? Can I get back the "original" raw floorboard without damage? Or it is impossible and "next time" you have to break up, and remove everything with the floorboard?
@@fchris82 Hi . Thank you for your appreciation. It will be a job and half to remove the tiles, backer board and tile adhesive without damaging the floorboards. Maybe not completely ruined but definitely you cannot sand them and put some lacquer on and have a finished floor . If you don’t stuck the backer board probably to the floorboards you may have a problem with the tiles .
@@valentinointeriors3023 Thank you for your answer. And what if I add cement boards first, without any glue? Or because of the levelling I need gluead backboards first? Or do you have any idea how to make a "floating" tile floor? Eg: MLV/other "softer" material + cement board + glued things... Let's pretend we have vertical space for this.
@ You can use a cement board (12-15mm) and secure this with screws directly into your floorboards without any tile adhesive. Then you can tile on top of the cement boards . I seen this done in the past with success and I seen this done without success. So there is no insurance that things cannot go wrong . I guess it all about how good is your subfloor( movement, balance, etc). In addition you can use some expanding glue between the cement board and floorboards. This can be removed if needed in future and it will make the bond stronger. Once again this is not the best method but it can work .
Excellent video mate, im about to do my bathroom floor, but i was wondering.. could i put tiles onto backboard without sticking backboard onto the floorboards? Maybe just only screws? Just incase i need to do any future maintenance to paperwork underneath
Hi , thank you for your message. Difficult to say yes to this . If I will do this I will definitely stick this with adhesive. If the floor is good and doesn’t have much movement you may be ok . I think this way . If I have a leak and I can’t get to it from underneath ( ceiling) I will have to remove and dispose the tiles . Doesn’t matter if I have to remove the backer board as is not expensive.
If you lived in Sourh Australia, I’d hire you without hesitation! Question: I have polished pine floorboards - can most primers just simply be applied to just a clean surface or should it be sanded?
Thank you soooo much for this video! You are awesome! I have been looking for a video on how to tile over my t&g structural flooring. I have Laticrete Next Level Plus self leveler. I'm thinking I'll need to add fiber to it.
Hi , thank you for your message. If the self levelling compound is flexible ( this should be written on the bag ) there is no need to add any additional fibres.
I have the same type of subfloor in my entryway, but it has layers of old paint that can't be sanded off - can the same process of adhering the backer board be done in my situation?
Hi . Ideally you want to scratch the paint off. Use very rough sand paper ( 40 grit ), or an electric planer if possible. A very good wood primer for tiling and then the steps from the video .
What makes you decide to not use the standard silicone flexible membrane backing for hardwood floors in this application? I can’t think of the exact name of what I’m referring to but it’s usually orange silicone type backing that goes on I see sometimes after the thin set which I presume would be used to partially level it out where it is close to that anyway. I guess I’m asking in part why no membrane here or you just prefer that first material you mentioned (insulating board?)?
Hi . The membrane is called Uncoupling membrane from Schluter . That membrane is not suitable for floorboards. It is only for ply, OSB and chipboard. For floorboards you need to use this one or cement boards, or other tile backer boards , no membranes.
Sorry I'm late to this party, but for a bathroom application, would it be fine to paint a waterproof membrane over the self-leveling compound before laying the tiles?
gonna need to redo the floor in my bathroom on first story cuz its vinyl from the 60's starting to look and smell like a trap house. do you think the very heavy cast iron bath with 4 legs will work on such tiling? i'm scared it might break the tiles given the high weight applied on a soft/flexible base layer between tiling and wood.
Great work. I learn much better way from you. Can you write down all the things you used please? The first "blue" glue name and the one after till the end please. Thank you.
Hi Thanks for your feedback Please see below links for everything I have used or similar . Let me know if there is anything else you need me to help with. Primer: www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ultra-tile-fix-proprimer-advanced-polymer-primer?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI99iY5oPh_AIVWJBoCR01ZA7SEAQYESABEgJo9PD_BwE Backer board : totaltiles.co.uk/underfloor-heating-insulation-board-6mm.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqNWf5YTh_AIVEbrtCh3qgA_6EAQYBiABEgJc5fD_BwE Self levelling compound: www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ardex-k40-hb-high-build-fibre-reinforced-levelling-compound-22kg?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIneTjtobh_AIVRe7tCh30tAC7EAQYGCABEgLby_D_BwE Tile adhesive: www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ultra-tile-fix-pro-ss-flex-polymer-modified-standard-set-flexible-c2te-20kg-grey?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiKLmpoXh_AIVmcftCh3ILwdVEAQYBiABEgKb9vD_BwE Grout lilleytileandstone.co.uk/mapei-ultracolor-plus-flexible-wall-floor-grout-see-options.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMItdXT34Xh_AIV2YxoCR3MSg7_EAQYBSABEgLUwvD_BwE#93=74&138=323
Does this protect the floorboards? I'm buying a house and some have floorboards sunken, so I'll have to replace them, just wondering if tiling is more durable than carpet etc to protect floorboards (in terms of damp etc)
Hi . I will not cover the floorboards with tiles to protect them. Carpet or flooring will be just fine . The floorboards that are bad will have to be replaced with new ones.
@@valentinointeriors3023 thanks. Do you think it's possible the panels have sunk due to heavy furniture being on the top for many years and having no central heating so creating damp/cold spot in that corner?
@@hln1969 . Yes , definitely. We see this all the time . Specifically under the bathtub. If heavy items are on the floorboards or chipboard they can sunk a bit.
@@valentinointeriors3023 thanks, the survey mentioned so many 'could be's' but nothing specific. (Ie air vent brick too low, chimney leak, gutter leak, drains). All they did was a visual check... They didn't look under floorboards. Obviously, I'll try to have each area looked at when I can afford it, but it's difficult knowing where to start.
@@hln1969 . I would recommend to check every area that doesn’t look right when you’re doing the floors. I now is not easy specially after you bought the house . Most of the time there is no buget left for that . It was the same for us . So when the time comes make sure you are checking if everything is ok , don’t just cover it as it may get worse in time and you may have to do it again. Best of luck 🤞
I’ve just got my first fixing of plumbing in bathroom and I’m back to old boards. Do I lay 12mm ply down? Then would you need some sort of sheet or anything on top of that or can you tile straight on top. Thanks
Hi . I would install a 12 mm backer board instead of ply . The backer board should be glued with flexible tile adhesive and secured with screws. Then you can tile straight on top. Don’t forget to use primer prior the backer board install and before the tiles install
Excellent video. I am concerned about my floors because they are so squeeky and wobbly. So I will screw down the floorboard before proceeding and use a hard backer board regardless. Question: what is the best levelling compound for this type of job, if price wasn't an issue for the client? The absolute best of the best?
Hi . Levelling compound from Mapei and Ardex will do the job just fine . In my opinion the best levelling compound and adhesives are from Ball . Just remember you need a flexible one . Thank you
I like your method but what if the material(backer board) that you glue and screw over timber floor is not available do you think a 5mm fibrolite sheet could be used as a substitute?
Hi I don’t know what this board ( fibrolite ) is designed for so I can’t really tell you if this is going to work. I am pretty sure you can get cement boards I most of the countries, maybe by different names. To be honest if the tile can make a good and strong bond with this board you can use it. Maybe you can do some testing.
A great video! I do have a question for my project. I am buying a new build house and will do the tiling. In the bathrooms they already installed on the floor the backer board (baseboard), I can see the same screws you used, however I am not sure if they used any adhesive underneath. I was advised to remove the backer board and to install a decoupling mat, I also got advise just to tile over this already installed backer board. What is your thought on this? Would love your advise. Should I remove the backer board, should I prime it and then put the tile on it, or is it maybe possible to add the decoupling mat on top of the backer board, running out of ideas here. Your help would be much appreciated. Thank you
Hi There is no need to replace the backer board with decoupling membrane. Both of them are ok for tiling. In my house everything is tiled ( floors) over backer boards. I will check if the backer board is also glued down and if it’s not I will do this . Pretty easy as is already cut to size. Just remove the screws , and use a 5mm notched trowel and place the screws back. The subfloor needs to be primed and before the tiles installation I will prime the backer board as is been there for a while and it may be dusty . When you are checking the backer board this should be better 6-12mm. Any thicker then this may not work with small tiles. Any questions down the line please feel free to ask.
@@valentinointeriors3023 Thank you so much, this helps a lot. I didn’t check the tickness of the backer board, will do that also for sure once I visit the house again. And then when I get the keys the work can begin. At least I know now what to do, thank you once more.
Valentino.. Why have you used these boards rather than the cement boards that most tilers use..? i am about to lay these type of boards prior to tiling over them but i have been told that cement boards are better...
Hi . I have used this boards as there was no flex in the floorboards. Also I did used self levelling compound over . This boards are better for self levelling compound and also they give you a little bit of insulation. Nothing wrong with the cement board. Cement board is better if there is any flex in the floor .
Hi thanks for your video. Can I ask some advice? I’m looking at doing my bathroom my house is a bungalow and I don’t want to tile all the hall way. How do you transition from tile to carpet or laminate without having a massive step at the door if say I had to use a cement board on the floor in the bathroom?
It is tile backer board www.fastwarm.com/fastwarmreg-6mm-tile-backer-insulation-board-11103-p.asp?gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIteuJmemQ_wIVCe3tCh2XtQ7yEAQYASABEgI1RvD_BwE
Hi . In our case the pipes are exposed. If there are any pipes under the floor you should inspect them and if any joints need repair/ replacement you should do this before. If you have to do it after you can imagine that it will not be very easy.
Hi . If the hardwood is glued down and is very stable you can. If its moving, floating, or not very stable I wouldn’t. Obviously is a better job to remove the hardwood floors then to install tiles on top of.
In some areas we have hardwood and in some areas we have existing tiles. Now we want to do all porcelain tiles over existing hardwood and tiles. Is this possible?
@@EswaraiahChalla You can tile over the existing tiles if they are well fitted and don’t show any damage damage. You can’t tile directly over the hardwood. Ditra mat or backing board need to be used before tiling depending on what type of subfloor you have.
im planning on doing my upstairs bathroom and i was wondering if theres anything i must do before going diy on the tiling. the floorboards are bit noisy and im pretty sure some of them "breathing" when stepping on it. dont really rant to replace floorboards cuz dont have that kinda funds available. would it be an issue that the boards breathe when stepping on it? obviously not a major movement in them but still some.. would the glue hold the tiles in place or would they start cracking and disconnecting after a little while?
Hi Peter You have to make sure that the floorboards don’t have any missing screws or nails. Prime the floorboards and then glue down a 6mm cement board with flexible tile adhesive and screws. Use small screws to fix the cement board into the floorboards. No need for long screws because you will have pipes, cables under .( if you can install a 12mm cement board is even better) After this you need to prime the cement board and you can install the tiles. I hope this makes sense, but don’t hesitate to ask any questions if you have.
Hi . The reason is because normal floorboards ( without tongue and groove) are moving separately from each other. By using a more rigid backer board ( no more ply , cement boards) you will reduce the chance to have cracks in the tiles. I never used 4mm boards. Always used 6mm or more.
@@valentinointeriors3023 thanks that makes sense. Would you still use adhesive to fix cement board down to floor boards? No More Ply seem to suggest their mega strength mastik is adequate.
@@871danwaters I am using adhesive all the time. I haven’t use no more ply . But if they are recommending something to stick down the board it should be ok . Just double check if this method works for your application.
Hello, I am currently in the process of levelling my floor in a 1900 tenement flat. I’ve figured out the biggest dip in the room is 41mm. To level this floor would I just follow this process or would you suggest any additional steps considering it is a significant dip in the middle of the room . Thanks
Hi , in this case I will use a different method. I will remove the floorboards and I will attach another timber (4”x2”) on the existing joist to bring them at the right height. The new timber will have to be screwed and if possible some expanding glue .
Hi It is called tile backer board. thisiswholesale.co.uk/next-day-building-material-supplies-uk-stock-wholesale-construction/tile-backer-insulation-cement-backing-hard-rigid-board-wall-floor-6mm-10mm-12mm-tile-adhesive-board?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-ZqgvPCv-wIVFpftCh1bbgTGEAQYASABEgKEWPD_BwE
Valentino, I would have used a continuous piece of backer board in the doorway as that is the tread area. You can raise the PVC door a little on its hinges, not too much but maybe enough to help. Very useful vid though as working on suspended wooden floors is full of complexity. Pity the customer was working to a budget as those radiator pipes needed to go under the floor! That may have given you the access to level the joists from underneath. It must be very frustrating for you to have to compromise. That said, these sort of vids where compromises have to be made are the most useful.
@@valentinointeriors3023 Top job and completely agree with a cement board over normal ply, it makes a big difference to even the sound when you walk on the tiles. Would love to see a video mosaic tile installation. Can we have your number?
Very informative video, I want to tile in my kitchen which has old floorboards and pretty sure it's not even, but I do not want to tile under all existing cabinets I just want to tile on the open floor and where the appliances sit oven, fridge, washing machine. How do I make the floor level and the leveling compound will end up going under the cabinets...
Hi We normally lay some 2x1 or some scrap timber against the units legs and duct tape. If the self levelling is not too thick you can use duct tape without timber.
I wouldn't put tiles straight onto floorboards. I would put some plywood on top of floorboards first and then put tiles on thus saving the floorboards from getting damaged if you have to take the tiles off.
There should not be a leak. I am trying not to have connections under the floor where are not accessible ( at least from the ceiling below) . If there is a leak you will have a bigger problem than removing the back board.
If I keep watching this I swear I'll start speaking with your accent. BTW, us Aussies can't readily buy the Ardex K40HB so get the sikafloor 4020 instead 👍
Why spoil floor boards with horrible tiles anyway? I prefer sanded and treated floor boards any day to tiling. To me, if a floor was meant to.have tiles then it would be concrete flooring already.
@@jasonward759 We did this type of jobs for more then 10 years. 0 problems so far. Just because someone did a job like this and its cracked doesn’t means the system is not working. You also need to follow some rules.
@@kawo666 Ok . I don’t know if you are a tiler , probably not. If you want to tile on plywood the plywood needs to be a very good quality. That will be more expensive than a backer board. So who is complicating things?
Thanks. We all have different tastes. If you ask me I can say that people are buying this tiles more often this days . I did quite few jobs with classic tiles in the past few years.
Wire-mesh and self leveling on top eliminates flimsy foam board you’re using and entire step and protects rubber seal on the bottom of the door that will scrape eventually! Method used for decades, before Schluter came up with its quazzy engineering of Ditra!
Just subscribed. Came across your video by chance as amateur DIY'er. Excellent video, very informative, great number of helpful tips, especially using packers on the floor to easily check visually that the levels are correct. Great detailed but concise in depth explanations
Thank you for your comment, really appreciated 🙏
Wow, incredible detail for the job. Thats a trait thats very hard to find my friend. Thank you for the great video and i am sure that customer was super impressed with your work!!
Thank you 🙏
From America ... this was a fabulous video. Yes I learned quite a bit, and your embedding into the video situations on tongue and groove, standard butt joint flooring, different level, ... all of it was terrific. Thank you.
Thank you for your appreciation 🙏
Truly brilliant video and so very well explained even for total novices. The skills you have are amazing. How fast you can achieve everything. Wow! That floor is perfection. Thankyou for the video.
Thank you for your appreciation 🙏
Excellent video, and excellent work, great to see!
Thank you 🙏
Hi we are in Ireland, I think you are back home but if you were here I would ask you
to do this work.
Question please? Can we use a 20mm backer board to increase insulation on a
wooden suspended floor like the one you show? (we don't want to take up floorboards as too messy).
Then we intend to put carpet over it in living rooms.
Lino floor covering in the Kitchen.
PS if you are interested in doing this job and more jobs, let me know.
Hi . Thank you for your offer and for your message. Unfortunately i will not travel this year as I have a lot going on here. This insulation is for a solid cover ( tiles , flooring). I don’t think to be a good idea to use it for carpet and linoleum. So maybe use laminate flooring in stead otherwise you need to use different backer boards, or plywood.
Very good video. One thing I would say is that your final notch should all run the same way this avoids trapped air. 👍
Yes , that is correct. I normally do that. I was probably paying to much attention to the camera 😁.
Thanks
What do you mean by this?
Is a notch a spacer?
@@HannadayFLO. No the notch is the gap on the trowel
I WILL TELL YOU WHAT MATE, YOU ARE A DIAMOND, NICE TO SEE REAL CRAFTMANSHIP!!!!
Thank you, really appreciated .
can you tell me the names of that that material you were using bicoz I was to tile on top of the wood as well and we're can I get those boards (names please)
Thank you very much for good explanation and for putting the links of things needed
Great video. I'll be tiling my foyer soon as well. What type of primer did you use first on the wood planks?
Thank you. It is a primer for wood . SBR bond primer for Ball is one of the best . Primer G from Mapei is also good. Need to be applied from the can without any water mix .
@@valentinointeriors3023 Thank you for the info!
Hi Valentino! Great video, one question: I have many tubes running through the wooden floor. What do I use to close these gaps so I can use the selfleveling compound? It is the bathroom so should be watertight…
Hi , thank you
You can use silicone or expanding foam . Depending how big the gaps are . Silicone for smaller gaps and expanding foam for bigger gaps.
Awesome thank you!
I am tiling my new bathroom floor tomorrow. My first time tiling over wood, and I was dubious about how flexible the adhesive would be. I happened to have bought the same Dunlop adhesive you used and am now reassured it won't end in failure, well, not because of the adhesive anyway! :o)
Hi . If you follow the steps I did you should not have a problem. We did it many times over the years with zero problems.
Hi can this be applied to bathroom? Do we still use the same chemicals? I was thinking also maybe on top of the backerboard using membrane?
So questions can be listed like this:
-Cement boards or backer boards?
-6m or 12 mm?
-Im assuming i will still use primer that you used. No PVA?(on floorboards)
-Do i need membrane on top of the cement/backer board?
-the spactula. There are different size of gaps. do i use the small tooths or big ones?
Hi
-cement board as it is more rigid.
-12mm is better then 6mm if you an use .
-you still need to use primer on the wood.
-there is no need to install membrane over the cement board.
I normally use a 6mm notched trowel
Thank you
@@ArtCraftBlackLight No problem.
You are welcome.
@@valentinointeriors3023 If you dont mind few more questions come to my mind.
1- Why 12 mm ? I guess i can make it 12 but its gonna make things go higher ofc. I have floorboards so i cannot remove them. instead of making 12 if i make 6 would i regret it?
2-Do i need to put some sort of water resistance chemical on top of the cement board?
3-As the door will be on the way, i guess i will have to shave from the bottom of the door correct?
Thanks a lot
Thank you so much mate. Exactly what I was looking for. Great job. Any advice for walk-in shower made with tiles. Thanks
Hi , thanks for your feedback
For a walk in shower you definitely need a backer board if you have floor boards. If there is tongue and groove boards ( chipboard or osb ) you can use Ditra mats. Very important to waterproof the shower area. Walls , floor and corners.
@@valentinointeriors3023 Thank you, I will have a look at that, just planning now and preparing budget and strategy 😊 I want to install the floor heating as well. I subscribed to your channel and will check other videos. Keep up the good work with videos here. You are a lot of help for people like me 😊
@@kentaczdys Thank you
Great advice. Thank you.
Thank you so much, I am renovating my kitchen and have tongue and groove boards and I though I will have to rip everything up and install OSB to level the floor. You save my life. 👍
Thank you 🙏
Thanks for this step by step tutorial. I've followed your instructions/guidance and made a mistake with the floor levelling compound. The floor slopes! Would you recommend adding more levelling compound to the shallow end or make it up with a thicker layer of tile adhesive?
Hi , thank you for your message
Depends how much it is . If is a small area and is not higher then 2cm you can make this with tile adhesive. Just make sure you have full coverage under the tile .
@@valentinointeriors3023 Hi, Thanks again. I'll give it a try.
@@corkandi no problem
Hi’
Good work. I want to do the same work in the bathroom on the first floor. The floor is made of wood, and I want to use 1200mm/600mm tiles on the wall and floor. What adhesive for wall and floor tile's I use? Thank you in advance.
Hi . Depending where about you are. If you are in Uk you can use adhesives from Ball , Topos tiles , or Mapei . The adhesive has to be flexible and is very important to use a primer before. Any of this adhesives will do the job . Thank you for your appreciation.
thank you for your last response, I would like to ask you if SBR bond is good for primer and for BAL flex ONE tile adhesive to glue the tile boards and or even to glue the 1200mm / 600 mm tiles thank you for your response advice in advance yes I in UK
@@benzrom5096 Hi . Yes , you use the SBR for priming and the adhesive to glue the boards and tiles . Bal flex one is a good adhesive. If you are priming a wood surface do not dilute the primer.
thank you very much for your quick response I have another question because you are in the construction field, there are people who say when they cover a wood floor with vinyl or tiles that the wood floor will rot because the steam water cannot escape it is true or false thank you and good luck.
@@benzrom5096 Hi . That is false. The steam , moisture should never escape through ceilings, floors or walls. The humidity should escape through windows or extractor fans. I will not be worried about this at all. Thank you
Thank you for your work, it is really helpful. I would have an unusual question: How easy to remove that you installed? Can I get back the "original" raw floorboard without damage? Or it is impossible and "next time" you have to break up, and remove everything with the floorboard?
@@fchris82 Hi . Thank you for your appreciation. It will be a job and half to remove the tiles, backer board and tile adhesive without damaging the floorboards. Maybe not completely ruined but definitely you cannot sand them and put some lacquer on and have a finished floor . If you don’t stuck the backer board probably to the floorboards you may have a problem with the tiles .
@@valentinointeriors3023 Thank you for your answer. And what if I add cement boards first, without any glue? Or because of the levelling I need gluead backboards first?
Or do you have any idea how to make a "floating" tile floor? Eg: MLV/other "softer" material + cement board + glued things...
Let's pretend we have vertical space for this.
@ You can use a cement board (12-15mm) and secure this with screws directly into your floorboards without any tile adhesive. Then you can tile on top of the cement boards . I seen this done in the past with success and I seen this done without success. So there is no insurance that things cannot go wrong . I guess it all about how good is your subfloor( movement, balance, etc). In addition you can use some expanding glue between the cement board and floorboards. This can be removed if needed in future and it will make the bond stronger. Once again this is not the best method but it can work .
Excellent video mate, im about to do my bathroom floor, but i was wondering.. could i put tiles onto backboard without sticking backboard onto the floorboards? Maybe just only screws?
Just incase i need to do any future maintenance to paperwork underneath
Hi , thank you for your message. Difficult to say yes to this . If I will do this I will definitely stick this with adhesive. If the floor is good and doesn’t have much movement you may be ok . I think this way . If I have a leak and I can’t get to it from underneath ( ceiling) I will have to remove and dispose the tiles . Doesn’t matter if I have to remove the backer board as is not expensive.
Great video, how did you remove the tape around the outside on the floor after pouring self levelling compound?
Hi . You can cut the tape around or just pull it out. Just don’t use too much on the floor as the self levelling doesn’t stick very well on the tape.
If you lived in Sourh Australia, I’d hire you without hesitation! Question: I have polished pine floorboards - can most primers just simply be applied to just a clean surface or should it be sanded?
Great question because I've the same situation. Wish he would answer.
Hi . Thank you for your message. The floorboards need to be sanded, definitely. Tile adhesives don’t stick to lacquer , varnish or stain .
What is the difference between using cement board as base and the ceramic insulation board you use?
@@xingtutan626 It is easier to work with this insulation board and it gives you some insulation as well.
Thank you soooo much for this video! You are awesome! I have been looking for a video on how to tile over my t&g structural flooring. I have Laticrete Next Level Plus self leveler. I'm thinking I'll need to add fiber to it.
Hi , thank you for your message. If the self levelling compound is flexible ( this should be written on the bag ) there is no need to add any additional fibres.
I have the same type of subfloor in my entryway, but it has layers of old paint that can't be sanded off - can the same process of adhering the backer board be done in my situation?
Hi . Ideally you want to scratch the paint off. Use very rough sand paper ( 40 grit ), or an electric planer if possible. A very good wood primer for tiling and then the steps from the video .
@@valentinointeriors3023 Thank you!
What makes you decide to not use the standard silicone flexible membrane backing for hardwood floors in this application? I can’t think of the exact name of what I’m referring to but it’s usually orange silicone type backing that goes on I see sometimes after the thin set which I presume would be used to partially level it out where it is close to that anyway. I guess I’m asking in part why no membrane here or you just prefer that first material you mentioned (insulating board?)?
Hi . The membrane is called Uncoupling membrane from Schluter . That membrane is not suitable for floorboards. It is only for ply, OSB and chipboard. For floorboards you need to use this one or cement boards, or other tile backer boards , no membranes.
Sorry I'm late to this party, but for a bathroom application, would it be fine to paint a waterproof membrane over the self-leveling compound before laying the tiles?
gonna need to redo the floor in my bathroom on first story cuz its vinyl from the 60's starting to look and smell like a trap house. do you think the very heavy cast iron bath with 4 legs will work on such tiling? i'm scared it might break the tiles given the high weight applied on a soft/flexible base layer between tiling and wood.
Hi
In this case you have to use cement boards . They are more resistant to compression. Also your floor and joists have to be in good condition.
Great work. I learn much better way from you. Can you write down all the things you used please? The first "blue" glue name and the one after till the end please. Thank you.
Hi
Thanks for your feedback
Please see below links for everything I have used or similar .
Let me know if there is anything else you need me to help with.
Primer:
www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ultra-tile-fix-proprimer-advanced-polymer-primer?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI99iY5oPh_AIVWJBoCR01ZA7SEAQYESABEgJo9PD_BwE
Backer board :
totaltiles.co.uk/underfloor-heating-insulation-board-6mm.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqNWf5YTh_AIVEbrtCh3qgA_6EAQYBiABEgJc5fD_BwE
Self levelling compound:
www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ardex-k40-hb-high-build-fibre-reinforced-levelling-compound-22kg?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIneTjtobh_AIVRe7tCh30tAC7EAQYGCABEgLby_D_BwE
Tile adhesive:
www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ultra-tile-fix-pro-ss-flex-polymer-modified-standard-set-flexible-c2te-20kg-grey?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiKLmpoXh_AIVmcftCh3ILwdVEAQYBiABEgKb9vD_BwE
Grout
lilleytileandstone.co.uk/mapei-ultracolor-plus-flexible-wall-floor-grout-see-options.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMItdXT34Xh_AIV2YxoCR3MSg7_EAQYBSABEgLUwvD_BwE#93=74&138=323
@@valentinointeriors3023 Thank you, very much👍.
Does this protect the floorboards? I'm buying a house and some have floorboards sunken, so I'll have to replace them, just wondering if tiling is more durable than carpet etc to protect floorboards (in terms of damp etc)
Hi . I will not cover the floorboards with tiles to protect them. Carpet or flooring will be just fine . The floorboards that are bad will have to be replaced with new ones.
@@valentinointeriors3023 thanks. Do you think it's possible the panels have sunk due to heavy furniture being on the top for many years and having no central heating so creating damp/cold spot in that corner?
@@hln1969 . Yes , definitely. We see this all the time . Specifically under the bathtub. If heavy items are on the floorboards or chipboard they can sunk a bit.
@@valentinointeriors3023 thanks, the survey mentioned so many 'could be's' but nothing specific. (Ie air vent brick too low, chimney leak, gutter leak, drains). All they did was a visual check... They didn't look under floorboards. Obviously, I'll try to have each area looked at when I can afford it, but it's difficult knowing where to start.
@@hln1969 . I would recommend to check every area that doesn’t look right when you’re doing the floors. I now is not easy specially after you bought the house . Most of the time there is no buget left for that . It was the same for us . So when the time comes make sure you are checking if everything is ok , don’t just cover it as it may get worse in time and you may have to do it again. Best of luck 🤞
I’ve just got my first fixing of plumbing in bathroom and I’m back to old boards. Do I lay 12mm ply down? Then would you need some sort of sheet or anything on top of that or can you tile straight on top. Thanks
Hi . I would install a 12 mm backer board instead of ply . The backer board should be glued with flexible tile adhesive and secured with screws. Then you can tile straight on top. Don’t forget to use primer prior the backer board install and before the tiles install
Excellent video. I am concerned about my floors because they are so squeeky and wobbly. So I will screw down the floorboard before proceeding and use a hard backer board regardless. Question: what is the best levelling compound for this type of job, if price wasn't an issue for the client? The absolute best of the best?
Hi . Levelling compound from Mapei and Ardex will do the job just fine . In my opinion the best levelling compound and adhesives are from Ball . Just remember you need a flexible one . Thank you
I like your method but what if the material(backer board) that you glue and screw over timber floor is not available do you think a 5mm fibrolite sheet could be used as a substitute?
Hi
I don’t know what this board ( fibrolite ) is designed for so I can’t really tell you if this is going to work. I am pretty sure you can get cement boards I most of the countries, maybe by different names.
To be honest if the tile can make a good and strong bond with this board you can use it. Maybe you can do some testing.
This is the best video I've seen about levelling an uneven floor, top work, thanks 👍🏻
@@kevgreathead1886 Thank you 🙏
Nice job, I have a question what brand of primer did you use for the wood floor?
Hi
On this occasion we have used Dunlop
You can use Mapei or Ball as well. Just use one that is for wooden substrate.
Thanks
Thorough job.
Thank you
It would be interesting to see how long the grout lasts; floorboards create too much movement over time
It will last a life time if is done right. I have jobs done for more than 10 years and there are no problems.
Great job 👏
Thank you 🙏
A great video! I do have a question for my project. I am buying a new build house and will do the tiling. In the bathrooms they already installed on the floor the backer board (baseboard), I can see the same screws you used, however I am not sure if they used any adhesive underneath. I was advised to remove the backer board and to install a decoupling mat, I also got advise just to tile over this already installed backer board. What is your thought on this? Would love your advise. Should I remove the backer board, should I prime it and then put the tile on it, or is it maybe possible to add the decoupling mat on top of the backer board, running out of ideas here. Your help would be much appreciated. Thank you
Hi
There is no need to replace the backer board with decoupling membrane. Both of them are ok for tiling. In my house everything is tiled ( floors) over backer boards. I will check if the backer board is also glued down and if it’s not I will do this . Pretty easy as is already cut to size. Just remove the screws , and use a 5mm notched trowel and place the screws back. The subfloor needs to be primed and before the tiles installation I will prime the backer board as is been there for a while and it may be dusty . When you are checking the backer board this should be better 6-12mm. Any thicker then this may not work with small tiles.
Any questions down the line please feel free to ask.
@@valentinointeriors3023 Thank you so much, this helps a lot. I didn’t check the tickness of the backer board, will do that also for sure once I visit the house again. And then when I get the keys the work can begin. At least I know now what to do, thank you once more.
@@evelinduric3742You are very welcome.
Thanks
Thank you for a asone video even if you have broken English I can understand you very good!! ❤thank you for a professional points of view 😊🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Thank you 🙏
What was more or less the rise of the floor after you were done. ?
Hi
It was around 20mm and about 28mm in the middle where the floor was bowed.
Hi, which wooden primer do you recommend please?
@@PKumar-q8x Hi . SBR bond from Bal or primer G from Mapei . This is what I always used without problems.
Thanks
Valentino.. Why have you used these boards rather than the cement boards that most tilers use..? i am about to lay these type of boards prior to tiling over them but i have been told that cement boards are better...
Hi . I have used this boards as there was no flex in the floorboards. Also I did used self levelling compound over . This boards are better for self levelling compound and also they give you a little bit of insulation. Nothing wrong with the cement board. Cement board is better if there is any flex in the floor .
@@valentinointeriors3023 thank you, great reply, i`ve re watched this clip a few times, i`m about to start a hallway floor
@@gaz4840 Thank you.
Hi thanks for your video. Can I ask some advice? I’m looking at doing my bathroom my house is a bungalow and I don’t want to tile all the hall way. How do you transition from tile to carpet or laminate without having a massive step at the door if say I had to use a cement board on the floor in the bathroom?
Hi ,
You can install some OSB in the hall ( 6-9 mm)
If this is not possible there is not much that you can do apart from a stepped threshold .
Thanks
Just one thing. Can you tell me the brand or name of those boards you use?
It is tile backer board
www.fastwarm.com/fastwarmreg-6mm-tile-backer-insulation-board-11103-p.asp?gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIteuJmemQ_wIVCe3tCh2XtQ7yEAQYASABEgI1RvD_BwE
Hi, what happens if you have to lift the floor boards to get to the radiator pipes if they under the floor boards?
Hi . In our case the pipes are exposed. If there are any pipes under the floor you should inspect them and if any joints need repair/ replacement you should do this before. If you have to do it after you can imagine that it will not be very easy.
Can you put tile over finished hardwood floors the house is 65 years old high quality finish floors
Hi . If the hardwood is glued down and is very stable you can. If its moving, floating, or not very stable I wouldn’t. Obviously is a better job to remove the hardwood floors then to install tiles on top of.
@valentinointeriors3023 houses built in 1957 their nailed down no squeaks nothing who speaks throughout the whole house
Can we lay porcelain tile over hardwood and tile floor? Please advise.. Thanks in advance!
Do you have a floor that is tiled and you want to install porcelain tiles over?
This is possible with the right preparation and right primer
In some areas we have hardwood and in some areas we have existing tiles. Now we want to do all porcelain tiles over existing hardwood and tiles. Is this possible?
@@EswaraiahChalla You can tile over the existing tiles if they are well fitted and don’t show any damage damage.
You can’t tile directly over the hardwood. Ditra mat or backing board need to be used before tiling depending on what type of subfloor you have.
Thank you so much.. appreciate your advice!
@@ParvathiChalla-kp2dm No problem.
Great video 😊
Thank you 🙏
Great video, most interesting
Thanks
Great advice and nice work!
Thank you
im planning on doing my upstairs bathroom and i was wondering if theres anything i must do before going diy on the tiling. the floorboards are bit noisy and im pretty sure some of them "breathing" when stepping on it. dont really rant to replace floorboards cuz dont have that kinda funds available. would it be an issue that the boards breathe when stepping on it? obviously not a major movement in them but still some.. would the glue hold the tiles in place or would they start cracking and disconnecting after a little while?
Hi Peter
You have to make sure that the floorboards don’t have any missing screws or nails. Prime the floorboards and then glue down a 6mm cement board with flexible tile adhesive and screws. Use small screws to fix the cement board into the floorboards. No need for long screws because you will have pipes, cables under .( if you can install a 12mm cement board is even better)
After this you need to prime the cement board and you can install the tiles.
I hope this makes sense, but don’t hesitate to ask any questions if you have.
😊,...bunaaa! ....am vazut asta ...si da ,este bine ca ai gindit sa faci asta...sau sa prezinti si asa👋👋👋
Mulțumesc
👍
Is this good to do a screed over the top sand and cement?
Do you mean if is ok to do self levelling on top of a sand and cement screed ?
Love it❤
Thanks
If I wanted to put underfloor heating (electric) would I have to put it under the self levelling compound or under the tile?
Ideally under the tiles. If the tiles are too small is a good idea to use self levelling.
Great vid. 👌🏼
Thank you
nice video mate. v helpful
Thank you 🙏
I have hole on the edge of the floorboards in a few corners, what would I do in this case?
If it is not very big you can fill it with expanding foam. If is bigger then 4-5cm you need to replace that section of floorboard.
Where are you based? Id love to hire you to tile the whole of my downstairs.
@@libralove7410 Hi . I am not living in Uk anymore.
@@valentinointeriors3023 Ohhh Nooooo! Come back hahahaha
@@libralove7410 maybe in the future. You never know 🙏
What is the reason for needing a stiffer backer board on normal floorboards? Would Marmox 4mm board be adequate?
Hi . The reason is because normal floorboards ( without tongue and groove) are moving separately from each other. By using a more rigid backer board ( no more ply , cement boards) you will reduce the chance to have cracks in the tiles. I never used 4mm boards. Always used 6mm or more.
@@valentinointeriors3023 thanks that makes sense. Would you still use adhesive to fix cement board down to floor boards? No More Ply seem to suggest their mega strength mastik is adequate.
@@871danwaters I am using adhesive all the time. I haven’t use no more ply . But if they are recommending something to stick down the board it should be ok .
Just double check if this method works for your application.
@@valentinointeriors3023 what was the budget for this please my bathroom is about the same and I need to save up
some good tips thanks
Thank you
Professional work 👍🏾
Thank you 🙏
Good video. I'll be doing the same in my hallway.
@@shafiquemo4 Thank you
Good video now time to try 😳
Thank you and good luck 👍
Excellent advice
Thank you.
Hello, I am currently in the process of levelling my floor in a 1900 tenement flat. I’ve figured out the biggest dip in the room is 41mm. To level this floor would I just follow this process or would you suggest any additional steps considering it is a significant dip in the middle of the room . Thanks
Hi , in this case I will use a different method. I will remove the floorboards and I will attach another timber (4”x2”) on the existing joist to bring them at the right height. The new timber will have to be screwed and if possible some expanding glue .
Salutare, aceste backbords se reconanda si pentru parchet cand avem podeaua asa ?
Salut
Se pot folosii fără probleme .
Mai recomandat ar fii placaj sau Osb pt parchet fiind mai ieftin .
Great job
Thank you
Perfect, thank you.
You are welcome 🙏
Top job.
Thank you
Thank you very much! This is my next project. Wish me luck 😅
You are welcome, good luck 🤞
i love it
Thank you 🙏
U available in se London for work.
@@Millwall76558 Hi . I don’t live in Uk anymore so unfortunately I can’t help with this occasion.
invaluable, thank you
Thank you
may i asking what is this board called(name)? thanks
Hi
It is called tile backer board.
thisiswholesale.co.uk/next-day-building-material-supplies-uk-stock-wholesale-construction/tile-backer-insulation-cement-backing-hard-rigid-board-wall-floor-6mm-10mm-12mm-tile-adhesive-board?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-ZqgvPCv-wIVFpftCh1bbgTGEAQYASABEgKEWPD_BwE
Hi is fibre cement board serving the same purpose as backer boards on wooden floor?
Valentino, I would have used a continuous piece of backer board in the doorway as that is the tread area. You can raise the PVC door a little on its hinges, not too much but maybe enough to help. Very useful vid though as working on suspended wooden floors is full of complexity. Pity the customer was working to a budget as those radiator pipes needed to go under the floor! That may have given you the access to level the joists from underneath. It must be very frustrating for you to have to compromise. That said, these sort of vids where compromises have to be made are the most useful.
Thank you for your appreciation.
🙏
Very helpful
Thank you
Great
Thank you 🙏
Where are you based?
Luton
@@valentinointeriors3023 Top job and completely agree with a cement board over normal ply, it makes a big difference to even the sound when you walk on the tiles. Would love to see a video mosaic tile installation. Can we have your number?
Very informative video, I want to tile in my kitchen which has old floorboards and pretty sure it's not even, but I do not want to tile under all existing cabinets I just want to tile on the open floor and where the appliances sit oven, fridge, washing machine. How do I make the floor level and the leveling compound will end up going under the cabinets...
Hi
We normally lay some 2x1 or some scrap timber against the units legs and duct tape. If the self levelling is not too thick you can use duct tape without timber.
I used expanding foam
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Fantastic
Thanks
Why not just tile straight onto the cement board?
@@nihow06 The floor wasn’t level .
I wouldn't put tiles straight onto floorboards. I would put some plywood on top of floorboards first and then put tiles on thus saving the floorboards from getting damaged if you have to take the tiles off.
@@RobertShaw-l9m Hi . If you watch the video you will notice that we haven’t tilted straight on the floorboards.
Plywood is very old school, there are a lot better substrates to tile onto now as shown in the video.
Tell us you didn't watch the video without telling us you didn't watch the video 😂😂😂. He put tile backer board down, as you should.
What happens when u have a leak
There should not be a leak. I am trying not to have connections under the floor where are not accessible ( at least from the ceiling below) . If there is a leak you will have a bigger problem than removing the back board.
If I keep watching this I swear I'll start speaking with your accent. BTW, us Aussies can't readily buy the Ardex K40HB so get the sikafloor 4020 instead 👍
😂😂
Any self levelling that is designed for timber substrates will do .
👍
And if you have a burst pipe or electrical fault you have to smash them up
This is not a reason to have linoleum in stead of tiles . If everything is done well then you should not have a problem.
very good video, thanks for your help you are a legend
Thank you
Why spoil floor boards with horrible tiles anyway?
I prefer sanded and treated floor boards any day to tiling.
To me, if a floor was meant to.have tiles then it would be concrete flooring already.
great work, tiles are horrid though
Thank you, we don’t judge the client choice as we all have different tastes 😀
Whats the backerboard?
The backerboard is the board that we have installed before the self levelling compound and tiles . This one is from Warmup
This tile is gonna crack
@@jasonward759 We did this type of jobs for more then 10 years. 0 problems so far.
Just because someone did a job like this and its cracked doesn’t means the system is not working. You also need to follow some rules.
👍
Way you do it so complicated, just put plywood and that's it
Plywood is not allowed for tiling anymore and for good reasons.
Why is it not allowed anymore?
Plywood shouldn’t be less than 18mm and properly sealed (i.e. with a correct primer). If that’s done, there shouldn’t be any issues.
Btw. tiling onto plywood on the wall is not permitted under British Standards. On the floor it is ok.
@@kawo666 Ok . I don’t know if you are a tiler , probably not. If you want to tile on plywood the plywood needs to be a very good quality. That will be more expensive than a backer board. So who is complicating things?
0:11
Great job! Only one recommendation... I would charge the customer extra for having to install such ugly tile.
😂😂
That’s a good one 👍.
I don’t mind what we are installing as long as we get paid.
nice job but tiles are ugly. like from 1960..now peole usually use moden color tiles. of natural stone hues .creamy, gray or brownish
Thanks. We all have different tastes. If you ask me I can say that people are buying this tiles more often this days . I did quite few jobs with classic tiles in the past few years.
ugly tile
Ugly comment. Get a life and be less pathetic. The tile is not my style but it still looks amazing.
Nail down wire mesh and self leveling on it makes it like liquid hardinacker board! You save a fortune and eliminate build up!
If we are talking about floorboards i Will trust the backer board more .
Wire-mesh and self leveling on top eliminates flimsy foam board you’re using and entire step and protects rubber seal on the bottom of the door that will scrape eventually! Method used for decades, before Schluter came up with its quazzy engineering of Ditra!
👍