How to Vent a Clothes Dryer | Ask This Old House
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Ask This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey travels to Cleveland to reroute a lengthy dryer vent.
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Time: 1-2 hours
Cost: $30
Skill Level: Beginner
Tools List for Venting a Clothes Dryer:
Measuring tape
Drill Driver
Hole saw slightly larger than size of vent pipes
Metal cutting scissors or shears
Shopping List:
Rigid dryer pipes
Dryer vent elbows
Dryer vent cover
Critter cover
Foil duct tape
Vent clamp
Steps:
1. Measure and mark the correct location for the rigid pipe to vent to the outside.
2. Drill a pilot hole through the marked location to determine where to drill from outside.
3. When drilling through vinyl siding, set the drill into reverse and lightly score the hole based on the center of the pilot hole using the hole saw.
4. Set the drill into the correct direction and drill the hole. Don’t cut all the way through to the other side.
5. Go back inside and drill the rest of the hole from the inside. This will ensure the cut appears clean on both sides of the hole.
6. Measure and cut the rigid vent pipes to size. Seal the seams of the vent pipes with the duct tape.
7. Insert the pipe into the dryer vent cover. Seal the seam with more duct tape.
8. From the outside, insert the pipe into the hole. Secure the vent cover to the exterior wall with screws. You can add an additional critter cover over the dryer vent cover to prevent pests from coming up.
9. Insert the other end of the pipe into a dryer vent elbow and seal it with duct tape.
10. Push the dryer back into position. Connect the dryer vent to the elbow and secure it using a clamp and a screwdriver.
11. Plug the dryer back in.
Resources:
Richard recommends keeping the dryer vents as short as possible to prevent lint from accumulating and clogging the vent. All of the pieces Richard used to install the vent, including the duct tape, the rigid pipe, elbows, and the duct cover are all available at home centers.
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Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we're ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers-and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O'Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook.
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How to Vent a Clothes Dryer | Ask This Old House
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I just absolutely LOVE this channel. And I would watch "This Old House" as a young man. Believe it or not I think it molded my brain to understand basic homeowner maintenance. Now that I'm a husband and I have my family to take care of this channel really was the father I didn't have. So thanks to ALL the Men and Woman whom have helped me without even knowing it.
Glad they mentioned the lint trap. That's a big one. I clean my lint trap off after every load.
common knowledge
Your supposed to
At 2:31 there is a little kid boogying down the street on his scooter and it brought me joy and made me smile.
Very important to keep the vent cleaned out. I snaked my dryer vent out a few months ago and replaced the busted exterior cover, I'm lucky that I didn't start a fire there was so much lint in there. Also that guy was lucky that he could vent it straight outside, that his laundry was on an exterior wall. My house its a really long 20' run.
The shortest distance should be required when installing a dryer vent. I can't wait to make this change. Thanks for such a great video
I'm guessing the person installing he vent got paid by the foot. :D
Was this man a Electrician?
Weird I watched this video and looked at the comments and saw my name lol. I’m not the only one ha
Lmao
Uhh#
@@christianguevara3122 lmao
Good video, straight to the point. I wonder why he didnt try to avoid the stud?
i would of tried to avoid the stud on the corner of the wall if it was me. I would of also used the flexible pipe to be able to move the dryer around if needed.
Never use flexible duct on a dryer even semi flex isn’t recommended use solid that way the duct doesn’t become a giant lint trap and you don’t have to clean it every 3 to 6 month or you could get fire where as solid duct needs cleaning every 1-2 years
And yeah he should be avoided the stud he drilled straight through not just a bit just straight dang in the middle although 1 shouldn’t be to big a deal it’s still a bad idea
Avoid flex duct whenever possible. Hard pipe is much more stable and easier to clean with drill brushes.
My dryer had provisions for a side discharge. Made it easy to get it right up against st the wall.
Put a couple of blocks of wood, or similar, cut to fit between the washer / dryer to the wall baseboard to prevent them from moving back toward the wall. Unbalanced shaking or bumping into them will try to do this in time.
“Reverse”?! Who would have known. Thank you! Subscribed.
Easy for you. Try replacing the dryer vent that is 3 stories up. Without a 40 foot ladder
1st Dryers are usually rated for max 50ft, (elbows are 10 feet each on 90) anymore then that a booster fan can be used to prevent "a lint trap". Second, they must live in a only warm climate cause usually the first 4 feet from the exterior are required to be insulated to prevent condensation buildup on the pipe and 3rd NEVER use screws when running a dryer vent as that causes a lint buildup without a doubt. 4. I wouldn't use that cage around the dryer hood cause lint could buildup on that as well. 5. I see people complaining about the distance from the wall, this is an after the fact quick fix for the best/shortest run, normally its run through the wall behind it unless its a load bearing wall then usually goes down into the basement and out the rim board
Nice grass!
I wish more people would look into heat pump dryers. Most people don't realize that an electric dryer in your house is one of the most energy consuming devices you'll ever find. Using a heat pump dryer means that it will use 25% of the energy and you don't need a vent! They are great in situations where retrofitting a dryer and installing a vent is not ideal like needing to drill through 8 in of a concrete basement wall like the city wanted me to do in a basement apartment I was building. I just said I don't need a vent if the dryer doesn't have one! Problem solved
That was all fine and good but you need a filtered diverter for winter so you do not waste the moist heat yet no lint in home. You only did half the job and you know it.
My dryer is in the middle of the house, and just dumps into the attached garage. Don't know why they did it back in the day, so I have some work to do.
I replaced one of these (still, admittedly- nowhere near this long or indirectly situated to the exterior) in an antebellum house owned by a friend last year. The commonality I found was that both extant vents and openings is that they traveled down and meandered (as I said- this one still a great deal more than the one I replaced) UNDER the house.
Now, if I’m correct, the venting used in bygone years was much more substantial- I.e. hard, solid, thicker metal, vs. the foiled wire tubing that is currently in use… could it have had something to do with some benefit derived from heating or assisting the heating methods of these homes at the time the former ductwork was put in place? Either that or that the ductwork was inherited from the installation of something other than a dryer at one time?The more substantial duct, if not insulated- and what I removed under the house I worked in was not, mostly, at least, underneath the floor- it seems it would’ve conducted and distributed the heat underneath the house.
During the summer, it probably wouldn’t have been enough to have even noticed, but seems like it could’ve made quite a big difference during the cold months of the year.
That’s the only plausible theory I could think of for another (even longer) stretch of ductwork as such, being similar in an older house as well when all of the newer ones I’ve seen from the ‘50s and later go straight out horizontally.
In england our dryers use pvc flex pipe to vent how ever I use aluminium the sort you would find on an extractor fan or cooker hood
Most dryers have a side exit conversion. Wouldn’t it have made sense to come out the side?
You could also by a ventless dryer.
That way you do NOT have to drill a hole in your house.
The water is dumped in the same pipe as the washer dumps his.
Simple, easy and stops from holes to appear in the side of your house.
yeah, walk into an appliance store (in the US) and ask for one of those... better bring 2 credit cards!
@@ingulari3977 not until they become more affordable. If you walked into an appliance store, would you spend twice as much to get the ventless one? doubt it. We waste a LOT of energy in the US.
😂 2 credit cards
25 ft. is the maximum laundry exhaust length, and its shortened with every turn. This one was insane!
nice work richard
15 ft of pipe and two elbows max is the 25 ft which you are correct for rule of thumb.
Can you do that with a brick wall? I would just love that. I have a cellar with no vent at all.
Maybe i am wrong but it looks like he went right through a 2 x 4 when he made that big hole.
And what about not sealing around that new vent.
He did lol like cut more than have it
should have removed siding installed j block to match siding. that cover does not sit flush to the siding. potential leak
I don’t vent. I just open my basement windows. It actually makes the basement smell nice. I only dry an hour every week and a half and no one is there when drying.
Never put a bird screen or a critter grate over the end of your dryer vent. Lint will eventually build up there and it will become a fire hazard
I’m more curious why they weren’t concerned with ripping through a load bear wall stud. It looks like the caught 2 of them.
Steve Larsen definitely got at least one stud in that corner.
Steve Larsen NFG
@Steve Larsen Plumbers don't know or care about structure. If you leave them alone for a minute, they'll destroy the structural integrity of a home just to save themselves a little work or materials.
ncooty , I’ve seen plumbers run water lines through air ducts instead of rerouting the pipes.
how to do you know if there is no electrical or anything in the walls?
I know This Old House and its commentators are known to critique everything they do, but personally I would have rather had this dryer's ducting run through the floor like it did before and go out the wall via the sill plate. That way the ducting would not be exposed in the laundry room.
What probably happened is that the washer and dryer were in the basement, and the homeowners ran such a lengthy ducting in the basement so that they wouldn't have to drill another hole in the wall of their home. Or the old dryer discharge was at the rear of the home where it would be less visible rather than at the side.
At least that lengthy dryer run was solid, smooth ducting. My Father's home, built in 1999, has a similar length routing with that vinyl ducting that has the spring in it for rigidity. Has sags in it between the joists, as it is hung on the floor joists in the basement. Vacuumed out the full run last year for the very first time in 19 years and got so much lint out of it, it was unbelievable. I bet his clothes are drying faster now although he said he didn't notice a problem before.
someone pointed out that the floor joists run the other way-- so the duct would have to go down thru the floor, then below the joists, then back up into the space between the last floor joist and the rim joist (if it's even a full width bay), so you figure a 90 to get into the floor, then a 90 right turn-- under a joist bay or two, 90 back up into the bay, then another 90 out the rim joist--that's 360 degrees of turns for that short distance. If the joists were the other way, it would only be two 90s.
@@Cdshakes Very true. I heard somewhere that code only allows 3 90s now regardless of span, but before, there was a calculation for how much span you could have with 5' reduced for every 90 used. However I believe one 90 was grandfathered from the start, presumably the one at the dryer itself, so you started counting 90s after that initial one at the dryer.
In another episode you told us NOT to vent moist air into the soffit! haha!
I just bought an old home, and in the "utility" room, the dryer only has about 2.5/3 inches of clearance from the back of the wall, for the door to shut. ALSO, the exhaust hole is in the floor...underneath the dryer. Would the best thing be to build a platform, then do a 90 degree/tight fit vent extension?
That is a good idea
You did not use the proper vent for vinyl siding. Vinyl siding expands and contracts and screwing directly into it prevents this movement which leads to rippling and buckling over time. This is a common mistake made by contractors. Use a "mount master" vent that slides in behind the siding and fastens directly to the outside plywood or osb.
do yoi have a video on exhaust installation when dryer is in cellar? about 6 feet below ground level.
Would a longer run with a couple of bends b ok as long as you have a little down slope. I get the point tho. Usually one bend anyway eh !
Another great video thanks guys....
They made the dryer vent in that manner to attempt to exchange most of heat into the house. I've seen it before. That seems to always be the reason.
4:36 - Not mentioned and looks like not followed...he did not even bother searching for a stud in the wall before drilling, and consequently it looks like the holesaw just tore right through a stud that may or may not be load bearing. With the dryer flex hose, moving the discharge a couple inches in either direction to avoid a stud is best practice.
great video but one where they are drilling through brick would be better
Great help!😃
Why no horizontal separation from the window?
Milwaukee
Nice that he emphasized *not* duct tape. Duct tape has a lot of uses, but ducts are not one of them.
Question for anyone knowledgeable - how do you know when you drill through a wall like that, there won't be plumbing/electrical in the way?
You should check with a stud finder he clearly did not
@@Vanilla_Icecream1231 well that would tell you if a stud is there, but what about plumbing and electrical? Can you find those too?
@@iamamish most stud sensor unless there magnent ones will tell you if there any ac power in the area but sensors that tell you about pipes are usually expensive but I will say you could simply drill through the drywall with a hole saw and stop when your in a half inch or cut it by hand and you can remove the drywall and see if there’s anything in the way
@@Vanilla_Icecream1231 thank you, that makes sense to me.
All ways new tools 🛠
Why didn't they just cut down the old duct work instead of making new? Maybe just for the purposes of showing how?
Should had caulked the outside vent to the siding.
Get a condenser dryer. It is more efficient and it does not need a vent.
Why not just get a Heat pump Ventless dryer to and not cut holes in the side of your walls? Plus you save money on electricity.
A plethora of faux pas 1. did homeowner have a home inspection? 2. Did the inspector miss the issues? 3. Kinked flexible transition section and the exhaust with too many bends. Industry standards, local jurisdictions, and appliance manufacturers only allow a eight foot flexible metal section, which can not penetrate walls, floors or ceilings, nor have screws for fastening and no screen (Opps-This Old House recommended it) on the exterior termination. The exhaust has several bends which reduces it efficiency. (90 deg. bend reduces the acceptable length by 5 feet while a 45 deg bend = 2.5 ft length reduction) Incorrectly installed exhaust can overheat dryers which can catch fire. The dryer transition should be replaced with a metal type installed per today's industry standards and the exhaust should be reduced in length and relocated.
A power ventilator is optional.
If you think the video showed some stuff, you should see what I have found in twenty years of home inspections!
Did I miss the part where he made sure there wasn't a stud there that he was going to cut a 4 inch gap into?
Did he just drill without collecting all dust? He doesn't live there does he?
This is a teaching video and there should be more content and detail with regard to what could be inside the wall. People watching your video will think they can just drill a hole in the wall and all will be fine. This is missleading and the average home owner may drill into a stud or even worse a live wire.
Every bit of air that comes out of the hose, is air that has to go back in the house somehow. Driers should NEVER be installed in an air conditioned space, it is the single worst thing you can do to your utility bill.
Good point.
What if there has been a stud in the way ?????
No stealing around the new pipe?
You drilled right through the wall stud !! Why weaken your homes structure?? Should have kept the hole out from the corner to avoid this Sure the dryer sits away from the wall by a few inches but just live with that. Also drill drywall side first because it is much easier to patch if things don't work out. I would think the siding would be harder to fix . I spent many years installing laundry equipment and killed myself getting them really close to the wall. Finally stopped that nonsense. If a customer complained I basically told them to just live with it!! Hell, my own equipment is approx 8" from the wall and I like it. Easy to look back there to see if it needs cleaned.. (Oops ! I should have read the other comments. This has been covered well already below)
Keep the drill level and straight on next time. Walking around like that isn't good for fitment
Only issue I can see is he didn't check for electrical wires or studs in the wall before he drilled. You never know what you might hit inside a closed wall.
The dryer and washer would drive me nuts that far from the wall
Every unit is that far to account for the duct work. If yours is pressed up against the wall good chance its crushing the flex house and may cause a fire due to buildup.
Actually mine is not that far and no hose is being crushed. You just need to think outside the box a little and use the cavity in the wall to tuck in the piping. Then use a section of flex hose to be able to pull out the dryer and disconnect when needed. Not saying my dryer is touching the wall, but it’s not that far like in the video.
Mine vents straight out the back through the wall. They could build a shelf right above it and make it not as noticeable
I can't tell for certain, but I believe that Kenmore can be side vented which would have been ideal for this situation.
Flex hose should not be allowed on any dryer period. There is no reason a dryer can’t always be vented with rigid duct. Flex hose is the lazy way out and only leads to problems.
The problem is most laundry areas only leave space for a contortionist to operate
Barely have enough room to open my front load dryer door while still standing directly in front of it...same for most other modern homes I look at. Either architects have no concept of daily reality, or it's a strategic design to squeeze more square footage into other areas of the home (because home buyers don't think about basic things like this during a walk thru).
@@LMBee00 Private residences aren't built to ADA, nor are most rentals/apartments for that matter. The laws of ADA/Fair Housing are a whole semester worth of discussion.
Ur so right
You are cdoing s
Haha so true
Ducttape, fore everything except ducts.
Unless you get them to install a ducted mini split in your attic. They used hella duct tape on one of their other videos.
I was wrong. It's a dehumidifier.
th-cam.com/video/D3wd2yVwzvE/w-d-xo.html
Duck and duct genius
@@Type2DarylBTeas q
IDaryl Boord yess
Two things that, quite frankly I'm surprised were missing. Firstly, *never* drill into a wall without first confirming the absence of any wiring or plumbing. Secondly, though the new vent duct was a snug fit, the *gaps should still be filled* with expanding foam, both inside and out.
Also, a long straight piece of wire hanger chuckled in a drill works a treat for drilling pilot holes through walls. No expense for a single-use drill bit, and the hole made is extremely small and easy to mask in the event of a mistake.
Lastly, the core from the hole drilled for the new duct makes a great plug for the abandoned vent penetration.
Don't worry Milwaukee powertools are insulated to protect from electric shocks
John Coloe the foam may have restricted the unit from moving to service, but I would have liked to at least see them put some silicone around the termination inside and out! They should have said in the video to make sure that there is no plumbing, studs and especially electrical before you drill a hole in the wall. I wonder how many people have had disasters because of the lack of safety warnings since this video came out!
John Coloe I guess they feel if your not smart enough to check for plumbing, studs, and electricity that you wouldn’t even attempt doing it yourself 😂🤣😂🤣😂
How do you check for plumbing and electrical work before? Do you need to drill a hole big enough to peek in?
@@scottymahoney My guess would be to start by drilling from the inside. Once you get through the dry wall layer you stop to check behind it to see what's there.
Also, it would have been important for them to make sure they weren't going through any studs on the exterior wall as they might be structural. They got lucky here.
no bead of silicone where the dryer vent meets the vinyl siding?
Towmy would not be happy
youd be surprised how tradesmen just tell the homeowner to call another tradesman bc they are plumbers not painters.
Thought the same thing but I'm not very craftsman leveled. It's pretty normal to bead silicone when matching 2 non similar materials ya? Plus will a plastic shield really keep squirrels out?
Plus that's now a good way for cold air to enter
@@silverSScamaro or hot ass air/moisture/allergens
edit: and *bugs*
That is almost the most absurd dryer vent configuration I've ever seen.
They probably wanted to save the heat in their house/basement.
I'm just here for the "Why didn't they" "I would have" "The proper way is" "They should have" comments. I leave satisfied.
Haha right
Did he drill right through an outside supporting wall stud...hahahaha. he should have, fill in the blanks....
Lol, “ can you believe” this guys a puss
This clip is only so long. Going over every detail turns it into a 3 hour show. And of course nothing ever goes wrong or tool forgotten but you can learn alot
I read the comments for much the same reason, just cause someone can make a video doesn't mean they know what their doing, I often learn more from the comments than the videos.
I like the reverse drill method for going through thin siding. I burnt out my corded drill doing this normal forward mode.
The guys from This old House are so knowledgeable about every aspect of home improvement, and construction. The show has been around over 40 years wow!
It looks like that hole saw cut through the wall stud. I'd be concerned doing that if it's a load bearing wall.
I can't understand why people/homeowners don't clean the dryer lint trap after every load!! First off it's a fire hazard and 2nd it makes the dryer work harder to dry clothes causing premature motor failure!!
Who the hell doesn't clean out the dryer lint trap every time they use it?
Apparently this dude
@@trevordoeshalloween5994 Apparently so.
regularly yeah, every time is optional
Steve Neumeyer Not for me. It gets cleaned out every time. That’s common sense!
@@nickhuber9627 f'n A
Shouldnt there be some caulk outside where new vent meets the siding or doesnt it rain there?
it only rains on the other side of the house
Nick Stosz absolutely!!
Yeah cause any water that runs down will make its way into the wall. I always make sure to add caulking for every type of dryer vent I install for good measure
Studs? Wires? You don't need to check for no stinking studs or wires!
A good drill bit will go right through. ;p
Yeah. Especially so close to the corner. He definitely went through a stud. Hopefully it’s just blocking for the dry wall and not the load bearing stud. It should NOT have been that difficult/long to get through the interior drywall. Once past the dry wall what’s left? We see fiberglass insulation so it’s not spray foam. I can’t make it out too well but I suspect a lot of wood he blew through. 😳
The magic of tv show editing, I'm gonna guess and say they checked beforehand
Get To The Point but for a show so focused on teaching homeowners how to do their own work, they should at least mention it.
@@jannora4725 It may have been the corner of 'that room' but it wasn't the corner of the outside wall, pretty good chance of missing a stud.
No checks for plumbing, wiring, or structure in the wall? No repair for the vapor barrier? No seal around the new hole? No gasket/ caulk on the vent cap? No concern for huge gap behind the dryer?
Hmm. Maybe this isn't the most complete advice.
A Plumbers license is a license to ignore all other building codes.
My thoughts, exactly.
They're not going to take the time to show everything in a little video like this. That would take an hour.
@TheOtherBill Perhaps, but they could've mentioned some of those important issues. After all, I presume it didn't take you an hour to read my comment.
Also, what good is advice that makes a home-owner just confident enough to be dangerous?
If someone doesn't know that then just mentioning to do it would be useless since they wouldn't know how anyway and probably don't have the proper equipment to do so. Those people should just pay to get it done.
I would recommend a critter cover as Richard mentioned. I never had any trouble with birds and the dryer vent until one Spring I found out they were filling the vent pipe up like crazy with grass and twigs. I cleared it out and 2 days later they had almost filled it up halfway into the house again. On went the critter cover over the exterior vent. No more of that!
One cold winter, I had a small bird come down my chimney and ended up inside my oil-fired water heater. It smelled like roasted chicken
I think caulking the top and sides of the new vent cover would be a good idea.
Red and Green would have just duct taped a 1hp blower fan in-line to force the gunk out.
But this works too~
Bet that dryer works amazing now
what? no just no.
@@Lurod_ i'd bet there's a performance improvement. Reducing a 37 foot run to about 18 inches, with only one one 90 degree turn-- has to make a difference.
How do you make sure you don't hit electrical behind wall?
Only issue drilling that close to corner of the wall is he went through a portion of the stud. You can see it on outside view walls aren't that thick.
Well done, I would have taken care that there were no obstructions in the wall before cutting holes by probing thru the interior drywall with a screwdriver, you can never be too careful.
I know I would have hit a stud, especially drilling that close to the inside corner.
@@tomcook4790 HE DID
@@tomcook4790 I did too.
how about patching the hole in the drywall and the hole in the floor, Richard!
That's not the plumbers job! They just make the holes
dropn loads bs.
@@zack9912000 how many plumbers do you know that finish and paint drywall repairs? I never found one
@@steverone7623 Plumbers love making holes that's for sure.
dropn loads most around here do, basic painting and hole patching they do isn’t hard to do at all
Amount the other issues stated in the comments I personally would have put a short piece of flex on just in case the wife or kids shift the drier at some point down the road. Also it would make hooking it up much easier because it could be pulled out a foot or so when hooking it up.
Typical ignorant "prior homeowner" work. Zero research done at all just slap stuff together, wrap it in duct tape and call it good, make it the next owner's problem. Congrats on being the next owner.
Dryer manufacturers need to make a dryer vent that exits on the side or the top, so you can push the dryer all the way against the wall.
Well you didn’t say anything about the studs in the wall! What if someone try’s this and hits a stud?
Brandon Jackson they just drilled right through them in the video lol I would not recommend doing it the way they did it normally these guys are pretty smart but that video was just poor carpentry
Isaac Mcguire yeah that video was pretty bad. But oh well.
Studs are either 16 or 24 inches on center. I'm pretty sure he went through half of one being that close to the corner.
Didn’t even check for wiring either didn’t put silicone on it either
Also wiring
Thanks for this video. I wasn't sure which faces to make while I drill through the wall of the house.
i think they took out part of a stud, which is probably ok
@@honeypot-pd2oc What? 4:08 I think you misread what I said.
Excellent job as always, I can't believe that would have been the original design from the builder.
Umm...don't you wanna seal around the vent? At least on the exterior side? Holy heat loss batman!
Shortest distance between two points is straight line right through studs on load bearing wall. Lucky he didn't snag any romex as well. Quite surprised by this video. Come to expect more from TOH.
Murica where houses are so cheaply made, that you have to fear it will collapse from a little hole in your wall lmao
I always love reading the comments on these videos everyone has something to complain about
Matt Limbs Well you should know any TH-cam video regardless of the topic will attract those who want to complain about the tiniest of things. What a sad world we live in.
@@venividivici4253 there always reasonable complaints I think he did a good job but people complaining that he didn’t put caulk on the vent cover and drilled straight through half the stud are right he should have checks id there was a stud and should have sealed the vent cover with caulking
American houses are like cheese. Try to make that vent in Europe and you would be cutting through bricks and concrete the entire day.
Hes using Aluminum Duct...Not Galvanized. Get it right Richard!
Wow. Didn't even check to see if there was plumbing, wires, venting in the walls! Pretty risky!
4:36 did he just bore right through a stud there?
Maybe electrical wire no plumbing pipes it’s exterior wall hehe
@@igorfabyanchuk9407 wires would be higher than 6" also
Oh great we got lucky! Plumbers creed is to respect no structure, even when there is no gain.
jej3451 yes he did.
I wouldn't use the cheap plastic vent outside they don't last long get the heavy duty steel vent your local Homedepot or Lowes will have it.
The problem with that critter cover is lint gets stuck in it and it will clog the vent
No, not as long as you wipe it once a month. And those are life savers, believe me. Had a squirrel get in once
DXSUCKIT1990 I’m just talking about the cage add on. Wouldn’t the built in flaps do the job?
@@bixbabble3935 not when it is running and not with squirrel, raccoon or even cats. Those animals are, and I have a cat so I am not saying they are nasty, like rats. If the head can fit, so too does the body
I thought the flaps acted like a valve to keep like bugs and the like out and the screen to keep squirrels out. But will the plastic screen really stop squirrels?
Jon They could probably chew though it
You guys are great I most love watching HVAC related stuff. Keep it up!
noticing more Milwaukee tools in the TOH videos, did you guys part ways with festool?
*Face Palm*. I did my dryer vent and I know what to use and what not to use. Then again I am a pipe welder so I know what is considered a restricted flow in a pipe. Bends and rough flexible tin shit you can buy. Best to make it with one strait piece and with very little bends. NO uphills!
They didn't mention that the dryer should also work better and more efficiently since it will be easier for the hot air to blow out.
Totally a improper venting job. 6-8 foot of venting is minimal . Some back pressure is necessary for the heat to stay in the dryer long enough to dry the clothes. Just like a maximum length ,there is a minimum length.