@@iluvtim77 4:44 if you pause , you will see him put the pipe in and the small crimped end is going into the larger end. The small end is going to catch lint and build up over time. If it was the other way, the lint would flow from the small end into the larger end with no restriction , or lip to catch lint on. Not a big deal but it is actually best to run the pipe this way to avoid it catching lint as quick. 5:03 again it shows it. 7:38 is another example as well as the next several joints following that as he is putting the elbow and short piece together to join the pieces together.
That downspout is classic! :D :D Just a tip, put the duct about 2 inches below the HVAC flex, you could create a condensation issue or even burn the outer jacket if you don't. Also, run a bead of silicone around the vent flange before securing it to the brick.
Nice job brother, straps and all. good crawl space... ya wish they were all that clean and maneuverable....haha. experience of attics and "crawl spaces". thanks for posting !!
At 4:37, the duct is directly in contact with wood. My mechanical inspector here in Florida advised me you need at least 1” clearance between pipe and wood to allow for heat.
Dryer exhaust falls under low heat appliances. There is no need for clearance to combustibles. The heat produce by a residential heating appliance lower than 180° is considered a low heat appliance. The temperature at the exhaust termination is usually 145° max. This is why single wall rigid metal duct is adequate for exhaust duct. But local codes and jurisdictions may very. The IRC 2015 and 2018 do not require clearances but the state of Florida or the city you are in may have their own amendments to the mechanical code requiring such clearances. Best to always install in accordance with the Authority Having Jurisdiction. This is why it is important to have a licensed or a professional contractor do the installation.
This is just the video I was needing. Similar situation in my home. Old vent duct travels down into the basement, but through the wall. The old outside vent isn't secured to the duct, but it is to the wall. Fortunately, the hole for the vent is in the wood framing, not the cinder block foundation (whew). The old duct is just a long segment of dryer flex duct passing through a large hole in the drywall, through the floor plate, and just hanging as it negotiates its way to the outside vent. Can't go through the floor; the A/C duct is directly below the dryer (🤦♂). Tough situation. But this gives me some great ideas! Thanks! 😁
If I may: It was a good job. The only thing I would have changed is measuring from the male side of the first straight pipe to be cut. The first cut should have been from there crimped/tapered end resulting in a pipe with a male and female end. Start connecting the female end into the floor connection. Next, the opposite end, a male, going into the female end of the elbow. keeping the rest of the connections male into female until the very end where the last piece would be two female ends. 🤔
Hey Chris.. Its Andre.. How are you? I went to TH-cam to check out how to install a dryer vernt correctly on my new/old home and there you were. So cool. Hope all is well my friend...
Thank you so much for watching and leaving a comment! As far as the insulation goes, you are correct! The insulation was removed due to mold. We have another video showing us putting in vapor barrier and a dehumidifier in this same crawl space. Insulation goes in next. 👍
Not the downspout 🤣People will do anything to avoid doing things even remotely close to acceptable. Well done! Installing a rigid duct this weekend for the first time. It seemed pretty straightforward but also daunting since I've only ever worked with the flexible foil ones. I feel like I can handle it now!
No kidding 😂....maybe it was all they could afford at the time...who knows🤗. Thanks so much for watching the video and leaving a comment, always appreciated. Best wishes on your project....YOU CAN DO IT!!
I had a plumber install a dryer vent in one of the units that goes under the house and he put a foil duct instead of a galvanized pipe like your video. Anyways, guy got mad that I called him out on it and offer me a partial refund. Told to keep that but will never have my business again.
Hi Jose. Thanks so much for watching the video...hopefully it didn't cause too many issues for you and the HVAC guy. Hard pipe will definitely last longer and prevent critters from entering the system. Foil dryer ducting can kink easily, clog quicker due to the ridges, and fall apart over time. However, you may need to check with your local codes. It also depends on the length of the run. If your codes still allow for foil or vinyl ducting, your HVAC guy may be following those guidelines. who knows. Thanks again for watching. 👍
That's a lot of bends and overall run length. Looks good but not a recommended install for efficiency or safety. Plus, cleaning that would be very difficult without taking some pieces apart. Dryers are notorious for starting fires so it's important to make that as easy as possible.
I’m no pro, but I would have used 22-1/2 degree or 45 degree elbows, not the hard 90s. Also, I would’ve used a wye with a clean out plug for future maintenance by the homeowner. If homeowner ever wanted to clean out that duct he’ll be wishing it was there. Also I’d install a lint catcher to help avoid having to break the duct apart.
I have a couple questions please where did you get the dryer vent Materials bc it seems like Lowe’s doesn’t carry them and what angle is that Elbow your using. I’m doing mine in the basement so I’m going up and out
Hi Kait. I don't remember which store that I went to for the supplies. Sometimes, I end up having to go to both Lowe's and Home Depot to get enough supplies for one job. You might need to do the same if one store doesn't carry all supplies for you. The elbow that I used was a universal elbow. It can be turned and twisted to whatever angle you need for your job. I hope this information helps you with your project 👍
What specific takeoff collar was use? I can't find one with the space between the collar than the tabs that allows it to protrude sufficiently to slide over the tabs.
Hi. Thank you for watching. The first attachment is called a 4" starting collar take off. I purchased this collar at Home Depot for about $6. Hope that this information helps👍
Nice job, but the crimped ends should go in the direction of airflow. Otherwise, there are edges inside the pipe to catch lint. It's very important to put the crimped ends in the direction of flow on water heaters and furnaces. Many people do it the wrong way, but it's important.
AWESOME! I was searching for how to do JUST this. Thanks so much for posting it. I am very grateful. One question, is it ok to not tape vent to the pipe at the end to make it easy to remove vent to clean out duct after a few years of lint collection?
Hi. Thank you so much for watching and leaving a comment, always appreciated 👍. I think it is best to tape the vent to the pipe and then just cut it off when you want to clean it. This is an area where hot steam will be exiting the dryer, and you don't want that escaping between the vent and the pipe and then causing condensation and mold. This should be a closed system from dryer to exterior vent when you are finished. I hope this information helps.
all those conections are going to catch alot of lint their supposed to go with the flow big into small..... first section of 27 inch pipe u cut the reducer off should have left that to install the remainder correctly causing you to use the 90 the wrong way and installing the rest backwards and that vent is not a dryer vent looks more like a exhaust vent
Hi Caleb. Thanks for watching. The ducting that I believe you are asking about is the HVAC floor register boot. It connects to the round duct work under the home, but finishes off as a rectangle shape for the installation of your finished floor register. I hope that helps 👍
Hi Colleen. Thank you for watching and leaving a comment 😊. It should all stay connected as long as you strap it like you see in the video. That way the straps support the pipe and not the connections. Best wishes with your project 👍
I’ve got an extremely tight install behind our dryer. Come out of dryer horizontal next to bottom and then turns 90 down to a basement elbow and straight out. It’s so difficult in moving dryer out that I’m wondering if anyone has ever placed a clean out in a basement horizontal run? What might one use as a clean out?
Hi. Thank you for watching. If you install a cleanout in your basement pipe, you should be able to use a wood stove pipe cleaning brush to clean out the vent. Those usually have flexible handles / extensions that can get into tight spaces.
I may not have caught all the details, but is this for a gas or electric dryer? If it's electric, would the vent system be installed differently on a gas?
Hi TF. That is a great question! Yes... forgot to mention that in the video. You should have a slight 1/4" fall per foot so that if condensation occurs it will run out of the pipe. Thank you for watching 👍
Does one have to use different gauge ductwork for dryer that are gas vs electric. Gas dryers exhaust run hotter since it contains the gas combustibles vs electric which is just the dryer heat. Does the gas exhaust dryer ductwork need to be similar to gas water heater exhaust of galvanized steel or can it be aluminum?
@@tf9160 That's a great question. I cannot give you that answer with confidence as I have not done a gas dryer exhaust that long before. I have exhausted several gas hot water heaters. The joints needed to be sealed to prevent any heat, moisture, and carbon monoxide. As far as vent pipe, I would guess that it needs to be specific to gas exhausting for dryers. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
That vent duct looked awful long. I need to have my dryer vent duct replaced as it is pvc. I was told the maximum length is 20 some feet. Mine is a little over that and I cant find anyone in my area to replace it so I might do it myself. When should you consider a dryer vent booster fan on long runs of duct?
Hi Gene. Thank you for watching the video and leaving a question/comment. If you follow this video you should be able to do it yourself! As far as a dryer vent booster fan it is only required if your run is longer than 25 ft. Having a short run is always optimal, but not always available. To install a booster fan it needs to be at least 15 ft away from the dryer vent. If you install it any closer along the pipe you might actually start pulling wet lint into the fan and clogging it. I hope this information helps you out.
Dryer vent shall not exceed 35’ from the dryer to the wall termination. You also have to remember that every 90 and 45 degree count as 5 feet for 90 degree bend and 2.5 feet for 45 degree bend.
@@akaredcrossbow Hi akaredcrossbow. I will have to respectfully disagree with that statement. Per International Residential Code (IRC) at M1502 - Clothes Dryer Exhaust, it states that optimal length shall not exceed 35 ft. However, that is not always going to work for every situation in "real world" application. If you read further in the code it states that longer lengths are acceptable as long as the dryer allows for it, per instructions in the manual, and/or you install an inline booster fan to accommodate for the length. Thank you for watching the video and leaving a comment. Always appreciated!
And state laws if I'm not mistaken. But we can get carried away on the specifics... I just replaced roughly 30' of regular plastic pvc type vent on a almost 50 yo gas dryer. Hadn't been changed for at least that I know of maybe 1986? When I was 8yo I put 1st year garbage pail kid stickers all over it and they're all still on it lol. Anyways, never had any issues, never had any clogs (well at least I don't think so but im about to dive in there and find out), clothes dried quick with no issues... maybe we just got lucky? No 90 or 45 deg bends, just straight cheap white plastic venting from the back of the dryer, diagonal down through the floor into the sub area(very tight down there btw), then a straight shoot at least 25 to 30" under 2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom and a couple closest areas, out a vent. Messed up thing was, there was a sub area vent like 8 feet from the hole in the floor that led into the backyard under the kitchen window. I have no idea why that wasn't utilized...
Hi. Thank you for watching. I used a Bosch Grinder with a thin cutting wheel. If you don't have something like that, you can use a sawzall with a blade designed for cutting metal. Make sure to remove any rough edges around the cut so that lint doesn't build up at that location. Hope this information helps!
Hi Walter. Thanks for watching. When we took the downspout apart there really wasn't much lint at all. The biggest issue we noticed, it that since the downspout wasn't the correct piping a lot of moisture escaped through the joints. This caused noticeable mold on the floor joists that we had to address. In a different video we showed how we used mold armor to kill the mold. Hope this information helps 👍
I envy the height of this crawlspace 😅 I have no clue how to install my vent. I thought about going out a crawlspace vent. There’s no exist vent at all.
It was a nice space to work in. You definitely want to vent your dryer so that it works more efficiently and doesn't cause a mold issue. the idea of running it to a foundation vent screen sounds pretty good (if I'm understanding your thought). Otherwise, you will need to cut a hole in the exterior wall to create a dryer vent, unless your laundry room is in the interior of the home. I hope this information was helpful. Thank you for watching. 👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 very helpful! Thank you! I’m in the middle of encapsulating my crawlspace so I definitely plan to run it out of the vent! I don’t know how else to do it without cutting into the foundation which I’d like to avoid!
@@brandiigiibson sounds good 👍. We also have a video on crawlspace vapor barrier and dehumidifier. You can check it out in our playlist if you are interested in seeing how we did one.
@@brandiigiibsonI have a similar situation and I also ran it out one of the "ovalish" screened crawl space vents. What I did was, using the end vent gate hood thing(flaps open when venting and close when not in use so rodents don't get in), I traced the 4" flange on the vent screen then cut out a hole in the metal screen and pushed the Male end(only end that could attach to the duct work Haha) through the hole in the screen and attached it to the metal duct work that leads back to the dryer. Works great! Only problem was that the metal screen on the crawl space vent was THICK so I had to use some serious snips and manpower! It took a long while but it was worth it. No sense in cutting up foundations or beams or walls when we can use existing openings😊 The good thing about the vents is that they're all over the crawl space, so you've got multiple choices Haha
Hi. Thank you for watching. The first attachment is called a 4" starting collar take off. I purchased this collar at Home Depot for about $6. Hope that this information helps👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 thank you for replying. My local one only has the 6inch and to be honest ordering anything related to this type of work I have had half of everything damaged. I found a quick connect system but it is pvc. I know about the static buildup. But and wondering if that will end up melting the connect
@@zacharyfravel9045 That's a good question. I would guess that the PVC would have a high melting point and be okay. My biggest concern would be the static created within the PVC that could actually cause a buildup of lint. I just went on Amazon for you and they have them available. If you type in 4-inch starting collar take off you can find them. Another option would be to call an HVAC supply house in your area. They will usually sell small items like that to the general public.👍
There is no code requirement for a DEPV simply because it exceeds code equivalency which happens to be 35ft. However, the dryer exhaust must have a tag plate installed within 3ft of the connection point stating the net equivalent length so that it serves as a attentive warning to anyone connecting a dryer to the exhaust duct for which the dryer may not be capable. There are many dryers on the market designed for long vent runs. So unless, the dryer you own does not operate with efficiency with a run length to that of code then it would be helpful but not required by code to install a Dryer Exhaust Power Ventilator (ie. booster fan) or purchase a dryer that can do the run or have a professional install the vent using more efficient materials and design to lower the net equivalent length to a length that satisfies your dryer. All dryer manufacturers have specs on what each model can do in length. Hope that is clearer than mud.
Hi Angel. This project was performed about 9 months ago. Prices on materials are most likely much more expensive...if you can find the materials 😬. It's also difficult to price as the length of ducting for each application can vary greatly affecting the price. I know that that doesn't really help to give you a price, but each installation is so custom that material price can change quite a bit.
Better then what was there but still not done right and 30 feet with that all those turns your looking at at lest a 40 to 45 foot run your going to have trouble with that most dryers should not be more then a 25 foot run 30 max and that’s pushing it each turn you had in there that I saw was a 90 witch adds 5 feet in laugh to that pipe and we will not even get into the cheep vent that you put back on the outside wall 🤷♂️not trying to be mean but your going to do a video do it right
I agree with what your saying but wanted to add you should also check what your owners manual says for your dryer you might be able to have a longer run but it will also say what the max number of elbows you are allowed to have. For example my dryer says I can have a max length of 47 feet with three elbows and as long as 80 feet with 1 elbow. Though without that info from the manufacturer your specs are the recommended to follow.
why don't my 60 " runs from Home Depot just slide together???? The factory crimped end is exactly the same diameter as the none crimped end making it a real pain in the ass to construct a 20 ft run out of 5 ' sections????? Also the crap I got from Home depot was smashed so I also had a hell of a time to construct the tube. what looks so easy on the video sure wasn't!!!!!! I CAN'T IMAGINE paying a HVAc guy $100 or so /hr to screw with Home Depot crap!!!!
Would have liked to see the dryer installed as part of the project. You seem like a good American, please stop using tic Tok. Dumming down of America. Do you see what they are pitching to our kids?
Hi Luke. Thank you for watching the video. The dryer was already installed when we took on this project...sorry about that. Also, as far as TikTok...we actually don't have an account with them, or Twitter, or Facebook...etc😂. I use the hash tag so that our video shows up under the TikTok category.
The crimped end of the duct goes in the direction of the airflow.
I appreciate seeing/learning to use an angle grinder to cut the duct. Thanks!
your crimped pipe end are running the wrong way. so it's going to collect more lint.
OUTSTANDING Good catch
The vent screen on the outside needs removed too, not supposed to have a lint catching screen on there. Still 100 times better than the gutter! LOL
Oh snap what min and sec do you see that at
@@iluvtim77 4:44 if you pause , you will see him put the pipe in and the small crimped end is going into the larger end. The small end is going to catch lint and build up over time. If it was the other way, the lint would flow from the small end into the larger end with no restriction , or lip to catch lint on. Not a big deal but it is actually best to run the pipe this way to avoid it catching lint as quick. 5:03 again it shows it. 7:38 is another example as well as the next several joints following that as he is putting the elbow and short piece together to join the pieces together.
Dang so it’s suppose to be going over it not inside
Very nice work. Thank you for breaking down what you were doing and posting it. ✌️
That downspout is classic! :D :D Just a tip, put the duct about 2 inches below the HVAC flex, you could create a condensation issue or even burn the outer jacket if you don't. Also, run a bead of silicone around the vent flange before securing it to the brick.
witch one are you taking about?
Short,too the point, easy to understand and thorough. Very professional. Thanks
Nice job brother, straps and all. good crawl space... ya wish they were all that clean and maneuverable....haha.
experience of attics and "crawl spaces". thanks for posting !!
At 4:37, the duct is directly in contact with wood. My mechanical inspector here in Florida advised me you need at least 1” clearance between pipe and wood to allow for heat.
Yup. Good ol' Florida
Dryer exhaust falls under low heat appliances.
There is no need for clearance to combustibles. The heat produce by a residential heating appliance lower than 180° is considered a low heat appliance. The temperature at the exhaust termination is usually 145° max. This is why single wall rigid metal duct is adequate for exhaust duct.
But local codes and jurisdictions may very.
The IRC 2015 and 2018 do not require clearances but the state of Florida or the city you are in may have their own amendments to the mechanical code requiring such clearances. Best to always install in accordance with the Authority Having Jurisdiction.
This is why it is important to have a licensed or a professional contractor do the installation.
This is just the video I was needing. Similar situation in my home. Old vent duct travels down into the basement, but through the wall. The old outside vent isn't secured to the duct, but it is to the wall. Fortunately, the hole for the vent is in the wood framing, not the cinder block foundation (whew). The old duct is just a long segment of dryer flex duct passing through a large hole in the drywall, through the floor plate, and just hanging as it negotiates its way to the outside vent. Can't go through the floor; the A/C duct is directly below the dryer (🤦♂). Tough situation. But this gives me some great ideas! Thanks! 😁
If I may: It was a good job. The only thing I would have changed is measuring from the male side of the first straight pipe to be cut. The first cut should have been from there crimped/tapered end resulting in a pipe with a male and female end. Start connecting the female end into the floor connection. Next, the opposite end, a male, going into the female end of the elbow. keeping the rest of the connections male into female until the very end where the last piece would be two female ends. 🤔
Great job, the only thing I would have done different is maybe use 1 90 degrees back to back to make it a slower curve, better air flow.
Agreed
Hey Chris.. Its Andre.. How are you? I went to TH-cam to check out how to install a dryer vernt correctly on my new/old home and there you were. So cool. Hope all is well my friend...
Nice installation. Getting ready to do the same thing.
Nice work MAN!! And music...👍👍
Nice job. Surprised the home is not insulated underneath. Need to replace mine this weekend.
Thank you so much for watching and leaving a comment! As far as the insulation goes, you are correct! The insulation was removed due to mold. We have another video showing us putting in vapor barrier and a dehumidifier in this same crawl space. Insulation goes in next. 👍
Well done!
Thank you, very helpful with my dryer project vent install.
Nice Job!
Thanks for sharing! It is very helpful!.
Great job!
The crimped end of duct tubing always points to the exit, keeps dryer fuzz from getting caught in joints.
Otherwise good job.
Thanks for the easy video, the length has me curious. How often would you have to clean it out since the pipe is so long?
Not the downspout 🤣People will do anything to avoid doing things even remotely close to acceptable. Well done! Installing a rigid duct this weekend for the first time. It seemed pretty straightforward but also daunting since I've only ever worked with the flexible foil ones. I feel like I can handle it now!
No kidding 😂....maybe it was all they could afford at the time...who knows🤗. Thanks so much for watching the video and leaving a comment, always appreciated. Best wishes on your project....YOU CAN DO IT!!
Take the peace going through the floor cut the tabs off and flip it over so the crimp the male end is going in the right direction
Great job sir!
That flapper appears to be 2.5 inch swing. According to dryer install manuals, ideally we would use a 4 inch swing for max exhaust.
I had a plumber install a dryer vent in one of the units that goes under the house and he put a foil duct instead of a galvanized pipe like your video. Anyways, guy got mad that I called him out on it and offer me a partial refund. Told to keep that but will never have my business again.
Hi Jose. Thanks so much for watching the video...hopefully it didn't cause too many issues for you and the HVAC guy. Hard pipe will definitely last longer and prevent critters from entering the system. Foil dryer ducting can kink easily, clog quicker due to the ridges, and fall apart over time. However, you may need to check with your local codes. It also depends on the length of the run. If your codes still allow for foil or vinyl ducting, your HVAC guy may be following those guidelines. who knows. Thanks again for watching. 👍
That's a lot of bends and overall run length. Looks good but not a recommended install for efficiency or safety. Plus, cleaning that would be very difficult without taking some pieces apart. Dryers are notorious for starting fires so it's important to make that as easy as possible.
I’m no pro, but I would have used 22-1/2 degree or 45 degree elbows, not the hard 90s. Also, I would’ve used a wye with a clean out plug for future maintenance by the homeowner. If homeowner ever wanted to clean out that duct he’ll be wishing it was there. Also I’d install a lint catcher to help avoid having to break the duct apart.
I have a couple questions please where did you get the dryer vent Materials bc it seems like Lowe’s doesn’t carry them and what angle is that Elbow your using. I’m doing mine in the basement so I’m going up and out
Hi Kait. I don't remember which store that I went to for the supplies. Sometimes, I end up having to go to both Lowe's and Home Depot to get enough supplies for one job. You might need to do the same if one store doesn't carry all supplies for you. The elbow that I used was a universal elbow. It can be turned and twisted to whatever angle you need for your job. I hope this information helps you with your project 👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 what is the blade called you cut the material with
What specific takeoff collar was use? I can't find one with the space between the collar than the tabs that allows it to protrude sufficiently to slide over the tabs.
Hi. Thank you for watching. The first attachment is called a 4" starting collar take off. I purchased this collar at Home Depot for about $6. Hope that this information helps👍
Nice job, but the crimped ends should go in the direction of airflow. Otherwise, there are edges inside the pipe to catch lint. It's very important to put the crimped ends in the direction of flow on water heaters and furnaces. Many people do it the wrong way, but it's important.
AWESOME! I was searching for how to do JUST this. Thanks so much for posting it. I am very grateful. One question, is it ok to not tape vent to the pipe at the end to make it easy to remove vent to clean out duct after a few years of lint collection?
Hi. Thank you so much for watching and leaving a comment, always appreciated 👍. I think it is best to tape the vent to the pipe and then just cut it off when you want to clean it. This is an area where hot steam will be exiting the dryer, and you don't want that escaping between the vent and the pipe and then causing condensation and mold. This should be a closed system from dryer to exterior vent when you are finished. I hope this information helps.
@@YouCanDoIt2 good point. Thank you!
I’m confused they have a vent above the one you secured to the outside wall
all those conections are going to catch alot of lint their supposed to go with the flow big into small..... first section of 27 inch pipe u cut the reducer off should have left that to install the remainder correctly causing you to use the 90 the wrong way and installing the rest backwards and that vent is not a dryer vent looks more like a exhaust vent
Whoops!
Subscribed Very well done!
Thank you Ralph. Really appreciate it 👍
Awesome video! Quick question what is the name of the flange sitting on the floor connecting to the dryer exhaust
Hi Caleb. Thanks for watching. The ducting that I believe you are asking about is the HVAC floor register boot. It connects to the round duct work under the home, but finishes off as a rectangle shape for the installation of your finished floor register. I hope that helps 👍
Good job!! I'm planning on doing mine tomorrow. Once you put a piece of tubing and close it, will it stay closed???
Hi Colleen. Thank you for watching and leaving a comment 😊. It should all stay connected as long as you strap it like you see in the video. That way the straps support the pipe and not the connections. Best wishes with your project 👍
I’ve got an extremely tight install behind our dryer. Come out of dryer horizontal next to bottom and then turns 90 down to a basement elbow and straight out. It’s so difficult in moving dryer out that I’m wondering if anyone has ever placed a clean out in a basement horizontal run? What might one use as a clean out?
Hi. Thank you for watching. If you install a cleanout in your basement pipe, you should be able to use a wood stove pipe cleaning brush to clean out the vent. Those usually have flexible handles / extensions that can get into tight spaces.
You are a pro man.
How much would it cost a job like this ?
How do you charge overall ?
I may not have caught all the details, but is this for a gas or electric dryer? If it's electric, would the vent system be installed differently on a gas?
OMG, they used rain gutter downspouts for a dryer vent ...
Just say no to Craigslist fly-by-night handymen people!!
Great job bro!
Thanks so much for watching and leaving a comment.... always appreciated!!
What did you you use to attach the dryer to the floor. Rigid or flexible pipe?
Hi. It was a rigid pipe in the laundry room and then a universal / rotating 90 directly below the sub floor. I hope this helps 👍
Improvement. Wonder if anyone suggested they move the laundry room to an outer wall room.
😂 good point. It was a suggestion…but, not in her budget. This home belonged to a single, elderly woman.
Is there any minimum slope on long runs for water condensation - if you have to go up at the end, will water collect at your last elbow> Thank you
Hi TF. That is a great question! Yes... forgot to mention that in the video. You should have a slight 1/4" fall per foot so that if condensation occurs it will run out of the pipe. Thank you for watching 👍
Does one have to use different gauge ductwork for dryer that are gas vs electric. Gas dryers exhaust run hotter since it contains the gas combustibles vs electric which is just the dryer heat. Does the gas exhaust dryer ductwork need to be similar to gas water heater exhaust of galvanized steel or can it be aluminum?
@@tf9160 That's a great question. I cannot give you that answer with confidence as I have not done a gas dryer exhaust that long before. I have exhausted several gas hot water heaters. The joints needed to be sealed to prevent any heat, moisture, and carbon monoxide. As far as vent pipe, I would guess that it needs to be specific to gas exhausting for dryers. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
@@YouCanDoIt2you mean run the way it’s going outside
How much would a job like that cost? I've seen a couple of customers that need it & I know not having it can cause rotten wood & mold.
That vent duct looked awful long. I need to have my dryer vent duct replaced as it is pvc. I was told the maximum length is 20 some feet. Mine is a little over that and I cant find anyone in my area to replace it so I might do it myself. When should you consider a dryer vent booster fan on long runs of duct?
Hi Gene. Thank you for watching the video and leaving a question/comment. If you follow this video you should be able to do it yourself! As far as a dryer vent booster fan it is only required if your run is longer than 25 ft. Having a short run is always optimal, but not always available. To install a booster fan it needs to be at least 15 ft away from the dryer vent. If you install it any closer along the pipe you might actually start pulling wet lint into the fan and clogging it. I hope this information helps you out.
Dryer vent shall not exceed 35’ from the dryer to the wall termination. You also have to remember that every 90 and 45 degree count as 5 feet for 90 degree bend and 2.5 feet for 45 degree bend.
@@akaredcrossbow Hi akaredcrossbow. I will have to respectfully disagree with that statement. Per International Residential Code (IRC) at M1502 - Clothes Dryer Exhaust, it states that optimal length shall not exceed 35 ft. However, that is not always going to work for every situation in "real world" application. If you read further in the code it states that longer lengths are acceptable as long as the dryer allows for it, per instructions in the manual, and/or you install an inline booster fan to accommodate for the length. Thank you for watching the video and leaving a comment. Always appreciated!
@@YouCanDoIt2 yes you are correct! It’s always based on what the appliance states in the owners manual.
And state laws if I'm not mistaken. But we can get carried away on the specifics... I just replaced roughly 30' of regular plastic pvc type vent on a almost 50 yo gas dryer. Hadn't been changed for at least that I know of maybe 1986? When I was 8yo I put 1st year garbage pail kid stickers all over it and they're all still on it lol. Anyways, never had any issues, never had any clogs (well at least I don't think so but im about to dive in there and find out), clothes dried quick with no issues... maybe we just got lucky? No 90 or 45 deg bends, just straight cheap white plastic venting from the back of the dryer, diagonal down through the floor into the sub area(very tight down there btw), then a straight shoot at least 25 to 30" under 2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom and a couple closest areas, out a vent. Messed up thing was, there was a sub area vent like 8 feet from the hole in the floor that led into the backyard under the kitchen window. I have no idea why that wasn't utilized...
am i wrong but those are the wrong elbows for vent ducting
What store can I buy the duct work at? I have a new dryer going in this week and I definitely need something for dryer exhaust.
Hi! Thank you for watching. I purchased the ducting at Home Depot. Best wishes with your project 👍
I’m wondering what section would it be in
@@iluvtim77usually by the water heaters in the corner past the lights and fixtures
What did you use to cut the pipe?
Hi. Thank you for watching. I used a Bosch Grinder with a thin cutting wheel. If you don't have something like that, you can use a sawzall with a blade designed for cutting metal. Make sure to remove any rough edges around the cut so that lint doesn't build up at that location. Hope this information helps!
How much lint was in the downspout section?
Hi Walter. Thanks for watching. When we took the downspout apart there really wasn't much lint at all. The biggest issue we noticed, it that since the downspout wasn't the correct piping a lot of moisture escaped through the joints. This caused noticeable mold on the floor joists that we had to address. In a different video we showed how we used mold armor to kill the mold. Hope this information helps 👍
I envy the height of this crawlspace 😅 I have no clue how to install my vent. I thought about going out a crawlspace vent. There’s no exist vent at all.
It was a nice space to work in. You definitely want to vent your dryer so that it works more efficiently and doesn't cause a mold issue. the idea of running it to a foundation vent screen sounds pretty good (if I'm understanding your thought). Otherwise, you will need to cut a hole in the exterior wall to create a dryer vent, unless your laundry room is in the interior of the home. I hope this information was helpful. Thank you for watching. 👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 very helpful! Thank you! I’m in the middle of encapsulating my crawlspace so I definitely plan to run it out of the vent! I don’t know how else to do it without cutting into the foundation which I’d like to avoid!
@@brandiigiibson sounds good 👍. We also have a video on crawlspace vapor barrier and dehumidifier. You can check it out in our playlist if you are interested in seeing how we did one.
@@brandiigiibsonI have a similar situation and I also ran it out one of the "ovalish" screened crawl space vents. What I did was, using the end vent gate hood thing(flaps open when venting and close when not in use so rodents don't get in), I traced the 4" flange on the vent screen then cut out a hole in the metal screen and pushed the Male end(only end that could attach to the duct work Haha) through the hole in the screen and attached it to the metal duct work that leads back to the dryer. Works great! Only problem was that the metal screen on the crawl space vent was THICK so I had to use some serious snips and manpower! It took a long while but it was worth it. No sense in cutting up foundations or beams or walls when we can use existing openings😊 The good thing about the vents is that they're all over the crawl space, so you've got multiple choices Haha
What is the floor anchor called?
Hi. Thank you for watching. The first attachment is called a 4" starting collar take off. I purchased this collar at Home Depot for about $6. Hope that this information helps👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 thank you for replying. My local one only has the 6inch and to be honest ordering anything related to this type of work I have had half of everything damaged. I found a quick connect system but it is pvc. I know about the static buildup. But and wondering if that will end up melting the connect
@@zacharyfravel9045 That's a good question. I would guess that the PVC would have a high melting point and be okay. My biggest concern would be the static created within the PVC that could actually cause a buildup of lint. I just went on Amazon for you and they have them available. If you type in 4-inch starting collar take off you can find them. Another option would be to call an HVAC supply house in your area. They will usually sell small items like that to the general public.👍
Hate to bring this up. is that to code? I thought you needed an aux fan after 12' of run and one 90 degree bend is equal to 5' for the calculation.
There is no code requirement for a DEPV simply because it exceeds code equivalency which happens to be 35ft.
However, the dryer exhaust must have a tag plate installed within 3ft of the connection point stating the net equivalent length so that it serves as a attentive warning to anyone connecting a dryer to the exhaust duct for which the dryer may not be capable. There are many dryers on the market designed for long vent runs. So unless, the dryer you own does not operate with efficiency with a run length to that of code then it would be helpful but not required by code to install a Dryer Exhaust Power Ventilator (ie. booster fan) or purchase a dryer that can do the run or have a professional install the vent using more efficient materials and design to lower the net equivalent length to a length that satisfies your dryer.
All dryer manufacturers have specs on what each model can do in length. Hope that is clearer than mud.
I must have got some bad info. thanks.@@jeremiahharris5002
links?
Question
What was the cost of doing this
Hi Angel. This project was performed about 9 months ago. Prices on materials are most likely much more expensive...if you can find the materials 😬. It's also difficult to price as the length of ducting for each application can vary greatly affecting the price. I know that that doesn't really help to give you a price, but each installation is so custom that material price can change quite a bit.
I didn't watch your work. I just watched how handsome you're. ❤
The screen on the vent is illegal.
Better then what was there but still not done right and 30 feet with that all those turns your looking at at lest a 40 to 45 foot run your going to have trouble with that most dryers should not be more then a 25 foot run 30 max and that’s pushing it each turn you had in there that I saw was a 90 witch adds 5 feet in laugh to that pipe and we will not even get into the cheep vent that you put back on the outside wall 🤷♂️not trying to be mean but your going to do a video do it right
I agree with what your saying but wanted to add you should also check what your owners manual says for your dryer you might be able to have a longer run but it will also say what the max number of elbows you are allowed to have. For example my dryer says I can have a max length of 47 feet with three elbows and as long as 80 feet with 1 elbow. Though without that info from the manufacturer your specs are the recommended to follow.
good video,, tip,, always go with no music over bad music.. the world has a glut of bad music
why don't my 60 " runs from Home Depot just slide together???? The factory crimped end is exactly the same diameter as the none crimped end making it a real pain in the ass to construct a 20 ft run out of 5 ' sections????? Also the crap I got from Home depot was smashed so I also had a hell of a time to construct the tube. what looks so easy on the video sure wasn't!!!!!! I CAN'T IMAGINE paying a HVAc guy $100 or so /hr to screw with Home Depot crap!!!!
That’s not going anywhere. :)
Too many turns not good you should install it in angle straight shot to avoid turns
Would have liked to see the dryer installed as part of the project. You seem like a good American, please stop using tic Tok. Dumming down of America. Do you see what they are pitching to our kids?
Hi Luke. Thank you for watching the video. The dryer was already installed when we took on this project...sorry about that. Also, as far as TikTok...we actually don't have an account with them, or Twitter, or Facebook...etc😂. I use the hash tag so that our video shows up under the TikTok category.
Wood screws? Those look like sheet metal screws with the rubber o ring?
Dryer requires 25 feet if straight out back of dryer. Subtract 2.5 feet for every 45, 5 feet for every 90. This is well under that!
Down spout would do the job!😂