ABS, ASA, PC, Nylon and POM on my newly enclosed Flashforge A5M.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
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Tip Preheat the enclosure before starting the print.
Manufactures cant do a controlled envelope.
A controlled envelope would have thermistors throughout the build volume and heated ducted fans or other type of heat production.
So to get the stubborn stuff to print properly.
1. Make sure it's not circulating air into the build aerie (the filter vents)
2. Ramp up the heat bed and let it soak until the whole volume warms up. (your looking for half the bed tem p on average for the ambient air around the part)
on other printer designs i've had success speeding this up with a warm/hot air supply. (i wanted to say heat gun on hot air wand but use those verry verry carfully) all my setups used an arduino to monitor the temps inside and the afore minchend hot air sources were being PID controlled so as to not hurt the printer or themselvs or the enclosure.
Warning A UNDAMPEND HOT AIR GUN OR HOT AIR WAND (REWORK STATION) WILL NOT MIGHT BUT WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO EATHER THEMSELVS OR THE PRINTER)
Heck a hair drier would work.
All you want to do is Warm up frame some and take the chill off the plexy walls so a draft wont build up from convection.
So wonce you got the inside warmed up and the heatbed is set to the temp it's going to be using during the print your golden. just let it sit for a few minuts to warm the last of the air in it some.
then start the print (EG soak the heat in) I've gotten wonderfull prints with some nasty stuff from old I3 Style printers.
And no i did not leave the electronics inside the printer enclosure . wich in my case was a large box with some insolation on it for the longest time.
Once printing.
Do not open the door.
Do not open the lid.
If the print is interupted it will probly warp.
Let the whole printer sit after the print is done and cool down slowly.
you can ruin a butiful print by not letting the core of the printed part cool slowly.
even thing things will warp after printing if you cold shock the outer layers.
Thanks for the reply, that's all good info! This isn't my first enclosed printer, I enclosed an Ender 3 years ago, going as far as to move all the electronics outside the enclosure, so I've been through all the step you've outlined, sometimes with good luck, sometimes with bad luck and sometimes heating the enclosure up so much that I've damaged some of the 3D printed parts I made that were inside it. I'll pin your comment so everyone can learn from it! Thanks again!
You should try qidi q1 pro that has enclosure heater and klipper
The internal chamber temp is the single most important factor for avoiding warping. Enclosing is good, but a good complete seal of the chamber is better, and either letting the chamber pre heat using the bed or using an active heater is best. A chamber temp of over 50C is what you want for relieable ABS / ASA and 60C+ for polycarbonate.
With good chamber temp you don't need glues or anything special, just a PEI surface that is cleaned with alcohol between each print.
Consider a different brand of filement. I've had some PLA refuse to print but switching to a different brand resolved the issue. Maybe some of those filements just are not that great. Don't nessisarily assu e it's a printer issue. Cheers.
For printing POM, you will need a heated chamber of between 70°C and 80° and pre heated for 10 mins or so and a bed temp of at least 120°C and print it extremely slow, around 20mm/s
I wonder qidi q1 pro would print it or not
Hey Chuck, your videos are a really good display of how this 3d printer performs.
For me as a beginner this is so enormously helpful. :)
Thank you and greets from the Netherlands.
Ohh and i subscribed.
Thanks! And it's always nice to hear from like minded people from around the world!
This may sound weird but I gained some success with odd materials by turning the fan off. Try that and let me know.
If you're talking about the part cooling fan I typically only use it with PLA and sometimes on PETG if there's bridging or a lot of fine detail and never on the first few layers. Other than that, it's always off.
Thanks! From an old retired Marine living in the UK God bless
@@Mrstrikerace Thanks for your service!
Have link for the vevor thermal camera?
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Check out getting a carbon fiber sheet for printing nylon, scuff it up, use some aleene fabric glue and some vinegar on the carbon fiber sheet. Best surface I ever found for printing nylon.
With PC you should heat the chamber, put the thermometer in there and try and get get to at least 60, 55 will work most of the time
ASA should not warp any more than ABS does. I guess it might be the specific brand you use.
I've been printing for 10 years now and only in ABS, and the last years ASA is slowly replacing ABS as my go to filament. It has all the good stuff of ABS as well as UV resistance, so good for outdoor stuff.
I've printed with a bunch of different brands of ABS and never really noticed any difference in warpage between brands. I've only printed with one brand of ASA and I guess I just assumed that like ABS it would all be about the same. But based on this one roll, it seems to warp quite a bit more than ABS. But I'll get a different brand and give it another try. Thanks for the comment!
Have you added any filters for printing these types of filaments?
What kind of filters are you talking about?
@@3rdpig There are hepa filters that flashforge sells that go behind the grates in the back of the main print chamber. They come standard in the 5m pro. Not sure if they help with anything without adding fans behind them too. But just wondering how the fumes from ABS and ASA were without filtration or ventilation.
Mmmmm, mozzarella
Now here's a guy I can get along with!