FIXED || Black Decker 20v Battery flashing red
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2020
- Black Decker 20v Battery flashing red light
This video is about how i fixed my 20V Black decker battery which was not charging and the charger flashes red. quick and easy solution.
Stopped into Lowe's on black Friday 2022 and found a battery in the recycle box. Was reading 1.5 Volts and jumped it with another battery for about a min. It read around 15 volts and charging it now. Thanks for the video.
Made the jumpers, hooked the bad battery to the good one, waited 15 minutes, and it worked! The problem battery ( which had been sitting around uncharged way too long) is now taking a charge. Thank you, you saved me from buying another battery.
Wow!
I have the same batteries and charger and all three of my batteries are getting the flashing red light. Gonna give this a try, thank you 👍
Worked. Just did this on a 2-month old B&D 2.0 AH battery (grey base). I had to let it soak up charge for 40 mins tho off a B&D 1.5 AH battery. But the new battery is now taking a charge. Thank you!!!
Not saying this to knock you in any way but only to help you eliminate possible confusion in the future. You are technically correct. All of the small six sided screw bits are commonly called hex bits. If you went to amazon and searched for hex bit set you would find many different assortments. The most common is 1/4" however there are 5/16 used in frozen screw impact (hammer) extractors and 5/32 used in the smaller "precision" electronic driver kits.
Now, the actual point of the hex bit that interfaces with the screw/bolt will be a subset. In example the plus + shaped bits are called "phillips" with no 1, 2, & 3. Here the bit you are referencing is called a torx tamper resistant or torx security. There is also a standard torx and the difference is a raised pin in the center that prevents a standard bit from seating into the screw enough to engage fully or at least that's the theory anyway... Since their introduction many manufacturers just took producing all torx tamper resistant bits as they will fit either the standard or tamper resistant but it is helpful to know the difference. I have heard them regularly called "star" bits and this does help describe them more clearly but it is not the correct terminology. There are also "Female torx" bolts where the bolt/screw head is shaped like the bit and tool used to remove them is a socket shaped like the head of the screw in this example.
Now if you told a helper to "grab me the the hex bit set" he / she might return with either an entire hex bit set or they might return with a plastic sleeve full of "Allen" wrenches. Allen being the name of the hexagonal multi sized bits or L shaped wrenches. As an aside take the hex bit out of you driver, insert it upside down and you will always have a 1/4 "Allen".
You speak english better than many people who are born and raised here so please don't take it as me being negative. It's just helpful to use the proper terminology when searching for or trying to communicate with others what you need and knowing it will likely save you time in the future.
Thank you for your helpful video, just trying to return the favor :)
Very helpful - just brought my 20v batteries back to life.
Thank you very much ! I have done what you suggested, and my battery has fully recoverd. (From Hungary)
THANK YOU so much.. I had left my "bad" battery to charge overnight but it was still blinking red. After watching this I used a very old 9v battery - multimeter showed 7.5v - to jump the bad battery and after nearly 20 mins the bad battery had about 4-5v. I plugged it in and it started blinking green. After a few hours it went back to red again but I unplugged and plugged it and it was fine. It finally showed a solid green (fully charged)
The 'jump start' worked for me. Thanks!
Now my battery is working again! Thank you so much pal!
Thanks a lot. I had the same problem, and i jumbed my battery, who doesnt worked before, with another battery, and now the battery works. Thanks for the video, it was very halpefull.
Thanks a lot this is very helpful, I jumped it for only 1 min and it’s working now 👍🏻👍🏻
Good job. Worked fine. Jumped the bad one with two pieces of coat hangers for 5 mins.
thank you so much - I did the same steps and restored my battery!!!
Thank you, I took a similar approach. I purchased a cheap (Amazon) variable DC power supply (Kaiweets KP-1010).
I just connected the + and - which are labeled on the battery and slowly moved the DC supply towards 18v and no more than 2 amps, for less than 30 seconds. Voila the battery is now charging with a green charging indicator.
Great video! Definitely going to try this!
So awesome, thank you for this fantastic walk-thorough and resolution!
I jumped the battery that could not charge for 15 minutes... it became very warm and still would not charge (but the red blinking light pattern was different), so after letting it cool down, it charged no problem!!!
Did you did the first test unsoldering the batteries??
@@matrixmatico695 unnecessary he could have just tested all of them from the pins directly by fixing one to the - pin the black wire then the other multimeter prob to each pin left
Very helpful video. I was having the fast blinking light problem and this solved it. One helpful thing, you only really have to jump the battery for one minute or so. After that you can put the battery in the charger and it will charge normally.
Either of these techniques sure beat the manual's reccomendation of disposing of the battery when you see a fast blinking red light.
Thanks John this really helped me, my power guns was almost brand new, and blinking red light, hook it up to another battery for about a minute and now it's charging with flashing green.
My blinking red regardless connected to the battery or not.I have disassembled the battery pack, charged properly each battery with Litokalla charger but the original charger keep blinking red....Any ideas?
Clip together two 9 volt rectangular batteries (e.g., from your smoke detectors) to get an 18 volt battery. A two or three minute jump start is all it takes to revive your 20 volt battery to the point where it will get a flashing green light and charge normally!
Rather a frustrating issue. Ours is doing the same. After seing your video id have said the chargers realy at fault. Way to smart.
And this is why I will NEVER buy another Black and decker. My mom's did this after 3 months. Mine after about 8 uses. Clearly there is an issue that they arent fixing.
This works for me. Without disconnecting the batteries from the board, I just had to give each of the series a small boost for 10 seconds with another 4.2v battery and it worked.
I just jumped it and it worked, Thanks!
Is there a more simple way to jump the battery ?
@@FLiTVnetwork Don't see how anything could be simpler than a couple wires?
Fixed my problem instantly. thank you sir only thing is you don't need to give it 10 or 15 minutes 10 or 15 seconds will do but thank you again
You are right. Sometimes it works with a shorter time. Just wanted to give enough time that work most of the time
I let mine jump for 20 minutes and it got super hot 🔥
@@humbertoramirez8498 If that is the case good chance you have a bad cell and should not use anymore.
cured my 2 dead batteries. thanks!
Thank you! It worked for me.
2 questions for you, what type of wires do you use to jump start the battery and my battery has strange screws, can i just connect the wires to the outside connections instead?
So is this a version of the 'modern' car battery chargers that will not charge a very low battery, not turning on under those conditions? (I assume a 'save the public' safety feature so the two terminals can't spark or burn up the charger?
What can of wires can we use to jump the battery’s ? Where do we get the wires
Excellent, thank you.
Tenho uma dúvida, eu necessariamente preciso desconectar os fios para checar se as baterias estão funcionando? 😅 Desculpe minha ignorância
Awesome! Jumped mine with a 9V battery from my smoke detector. B&D is sending me a replacement as well.
Did you have to take the battery apart to jump it?
@@ashb4sure I didn't have to take it apart.
Excellent!! Now as someone else has suggested, I will troll the recycle bin at the big box stores for ZOMBIE batteries!!!!
Came out of the box doing this for me. Didn’t realize for a year because didn’t need it. Now I’m probably screwed (pun intended)
Muchas gracias me sirvió mucho el video
Seems best not to jump with more than 20 volts. I hooked up two M12 batteries in series and the volt meter read 24 volts. I jumped the Black Decker battery and the wires got extremely hot. Charger is now blinking green. Thanks for sharing.
My battery will charge up to 18.8v then start blinking red.. supposedly it means it got hot but always cool to touch and not warm at all.. dunno.. i did however modify the battery from a 2ah to a 6ah but circuitry for all are the same whether 1,2 or 3c.. has worked fine for years with the laptop cells i put in it., just started blinking the red light.. if i reseat it the batteryvwill fully charge but just odd itll charge up most the way then blinky red lights..
Thank you for this. I had just the opposite. I left my charger on the battery a few days (Forgot) The safety cutoff might have charged a little each time it tried to charge before cutting out?, (Not sure) It was charged to 21.5 volts and wouldn't power drill. I discharged it to another partly discharged battery until it was down to 20 ish and it started working again. WTH?
Wonder if you could jump the B&D battery with a different battery from like a Dewalt? I only have the one Black and Decker. Thanks for great video
Clip together two 9 volt rectangular batteries (e.g., from your smoke detectors) to get an 18 volt battery. A two or three minute jump start is all it takes to revive your 20 volt battery to the point where it will get a flashing green light and charge normally!
Hi, for jumper battery, is it must be the same as the voltage and current ?
I have two bad batteries, can I use something else to jump them??
What kind of wire do you use to jump the battery from one to another? 🤔
Nice video. Once you jump the bad battery, will it be able to be recharged in future by the charger?
Also, can a bad battery be replaced?
Thank you!
Yes, once jumped it will work with a regular charger
An even simpler solution (at least one worth trying first) is pulse charging: Put the battery in the charger and then plug the charger in and out from the outlet a few times for ~5 seconds at a time. I tried it recently and it took about 5 rounds but then it started charging on its own
very good video!
Used a 40V battery to jump a 20V, which wasn't a good idea... The wires got hot in 2 seconds. But I hooked it up to the charger and worked like new again. Thanks!
Same, unlike another 20v, the 40v got my dead battery working in only a few seconds!
Worked. Thx..👍
As you’re reading individual batteries’ voltage couple of them had negative reading. Does that mean they’re faulty?
It just means each battery is oriented positive/negative in an alternating fashion, but he didn't swap the volt meter poles so every other would give a negative.
no matter if i jump it or force charge it the battery voltage will not move.. is the batteries dead?
Does anyone knows why the saw beeps when you turn it on? It works fine but beeps. Or it’s suppose to do it?
Thanks a lot!
So what was your purpose for de-soldering the batteries?
Don't quote me on this but in order to get an accurate reading of the voltage of each cell it has to be disconnected from the rest of the circuit
@@Dubsinsauce It looks to me like the cells are wired in series (to reach 20V)... so not sure why desoldering was necessary - just metering across each cell, one-at-a-time should have been adequate.
I did 2 minutes of jumping and it worked. It got the battery to 9volt from below 1 volt, and now the charger is charging it.
You went through all that trouble to unsolder the cells from the battery management/charger board.
And you would have been far better off to "jump" each cell individually (with a voltage and current controlled power supply) which would also give you an indication of each cell condition when you did that.
You could have also measured the voltage across each cell without taking them out of the circuit for an indication of charge state.
You didn't need to do any of all that just to try a 20V "jump" charge either.
HAHA.
Safer too, if you had one or two shorted cells putting that 20V on the system (with only 2-3 cells "working") could result in an overcurrent disaster to BOTH battery sets and your test area.
Take care, and try that approach next time.
-SG
Thank you for this knowledge..i will try now...salutte
Gracias amigo, si yo tambien cuando me paso, y si pense que fue porque se bajo demasido la carga y el cargador es muy lento, y es de muy poco amperaje y no alacanza a meterle carga cuando estan tan vacias, asi que necesitan un pulso con una carga muy fuerte para que reviva y el cargador a partir de alli pueda recargarla.
Hice lo mismo que tu, con una bateria de 3 amperes solo le di un pulso de 10 segundos y listo cinecte el cargador y con eso fue suficiente para revivirla, saludos...
Do someone knows what is the NTC sensor present in the matrix battery?
Can you jump it with a 12 volt car battery?
Funkade direkt Tack
perfect for the dewalt shop vac
When I individually test my batteries I get 4.00-4.05 volts per battery on 20v battery but when I test them all together Its 0.02? What’s wrong with it. My drill won’t work. It overheated when I was drilling a hole with a dull hole attachment
You may have got water on it it can be fixed with isopropyl alcohol be careful tho drills are complex to reasemble
@@bloopbloop5663 I ruined it already. I tried to resolder it😄😄😄
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 lemme guess the little metal thing with hole in it burned if so just squish them down into echother then sand the surface wipe clean and solder I know cause I burned one out using as a power supply to melt metal so I put a lead chunk under it and squished it then on perpous over heated it by melting alot to get the lead nice and melted in works great not I can use to melt all I want untill it run dead
is jumping the battery, something that needs to be done often going forward with that battery? or is it like jumping a car battery; you do it once and it will last you till the next fu** up?
I had to do it only once and it’s working fine for last one year
@@realinsights5128 jumped my 20v with a 24v for 15 mins today. didn't work for me. :/ something else must be wrong.
Super super thank you ao much ill jump it and then work huhuhu thanks bro
Please like and subscribe if you liked it.
another method is to get an adjustable generator and slow charge each battery to around 3.5 volts...and then charge the whole thing up normally
Awesome that's what I needed to know
Awesome
Which bit is used for the 4 screws. (at time 2:37in the video)?
I think it's a T15
use the one that fits and turns the screw
@@mhere7713 The LBXR20 pack that I have looks like it takes one of those "security" bits with a hollow center... years ago I bought a set, so I will try them. Yeah, the outside looks like a T15.
T10, but one of them is a security T10
@@davidb2438 You're right, I have one from 2020 I just pulled out, and all four are TR10 / security T10
tried with mine nothing
how long do I let it charge
What kind of wires did you use to jump the battery?
I used some scrape 12 gauge wires. You can use any wire as this is just 20V and you will be using it just to jump the battery
@@realinsights5128 Thanks, very detailed, insightful video. I have a dead battery I’m going to try this.
i am glad you liked it. you can go to my channel and checkout my other videos. If you like it please do share and subscribe. I do at least 2 videos per week, sharing real projects.
@@realinsights5128 this is what I was wondering. Thanks for asking
so basically you desoldered all the wires first before you tested the batteries with the multimeter.. then realizing that it just may be drained then resoldering all the connections again..
You are right. To save time you should try jump the batteries first, if that doesn’t work then check individually each battery.
I keep a drill in my my car all the time, i guess after months without charging it, the battery will drain and that causing the red flashing when plugged
What does it mean when the charger blinks red without a battery attached?
I have read that happening, I can only speculate that the charger is defective now for some reason. i suppose if attaching it to a battery it does it's job, may as well still use it?
@@jayc4283 you're right. The charger was defective. My vacuum is still under warranty so I had it replaced.
Same story. Blinks with no battery attached...((
@@nemocap2958 It was actually a charger issue. Since my vacuum was still under warranty I had it replaced.
Great video ..but a lot of work I’m just buying one 😂😂😂
Thank you very much going to try it now
Did it work?
@@realinsights5128 no, I think the board is damaged because I used it to attempt a jump start of a Honda ridgeline
I had a brand new open box B&D drill I bought as a spare. It tested fine for 3-4 bursts, then only the LED light comes on. tried my chargers and existing batteries all work fine. So new battery has an issue. Put on charger fast flash red. outer terminals are 20.3 volts, same as my existing 2 working batteries. The voltage between terminal 2 and positive (term 4) is zero on bad one, but reads 20.4 on good battery. So obviously a difference. being that term 2 is likely also a negative terminal, I was going to just jump it. But I don't want to short out the charger in some way. I did try matching all 4 leads with jumper from good to bad battery sat overnight. did not change anything. Opened battery and all leads are intact, no broken solder traces that I see. Any ideas anyone?
Hi! What can i do to jump it if i don’t have another battery?
yeah can i use a dewalt batter to jump this?
@@XPookeyeX probably. Since Dewalt is the luxury line of B&D (same company)
Clip together two 9 volt rectangular batteries (e.g., from your smoke detectors) to get an 18 volt battery. A two or three minute jump start is all it takes to revive your 20 volt battery to the point where it will get a flashing green light and charge normally!
Wire jumped it for 10 seconds and it was good to start charging red light blink stopped to normal charging
4:56 HAHAHHAHA
I've had so many NEW batteries going bad only in a matter of months. Cheap lithium? No idea what the issue is. Seems like engineered obsolescence to me.
Just jumped my 20v battery successfully with a 12v laptop charger because I didn't have another battery.
my battery holds 3.9v and the charger is just solid green
Just tried this without opening the battery case and the bad battery is now charging
Battery number 2 and 4 display the minus - do you notice
Thats just bc of polarity of tester cable was conected on wrong side of thr batter
My charger is flashing red WITHOUT any battery connected!
on both batteries
Ihave a same problem...
These batteries are awful. Can't hold a charge for more than 3 years. so sad.
I used more often on winter and spring time. Still have 3 batteries almost 5 years. Medium use.
So the smart thing to do is jump it first. Do not disassemble. Would be a waste of time
Sucks cause mines is new
Alls i did was stick my battery back in my hedger and run it for 1 minute and plugged it back into the charger and its charging no need for all the mumbo jumbo you did
Wow... This video is super scary... Connecting the output of one lithium battery to the input of another, can cause a catastrophic voltage spike, which could literally cause them both to explode. Lithium ion batteries need to be charged at a constant voltage and amperage. Using the output of a full cell, will output upwards of 40 amps and these batteries should never be charged above 5 amps. This is a recipe for explosions. I have a 600 amp, 12s10p battery that I made, and trust me, one wrong move will vaporize a connector in microseconds... My arc welder puts out 200 amps... And trust me when I say, vaporize, because there wasn't even melted metal left, just black, charred wire ends. The safest (and still decidedly very unsafe) method would be to use a bench power supply, set to CC at 5 amp or less, and CV set to 4.2v.
There was also, no need whatsoever, to de-solder the wires. You could have easily tested the batteries through the nickel strips they are spot welded to, or even via the wires you removed, as they are the balance wires for the battery, and any RC enthusiast will tell you, we check voltage directly from the balance leads.
BULLSHIT!
This is the kind of comment I was looking for. Do you happen to know what the voltage(s?) should be on this particular battery, without taking it apart and burning down my shed by jumping it with another lithium?
@@targipgadponson5674 each cell should be kept to maximum 4.2 volts for full charge, and not allowed to drop below 3.0 for very long. Litium ion batteries like to live between 3.4 and 4.18 to be their happiest.
The easiest way to bring this back, would be using an adjustable bench power supply set for about 1 amp and 3.6 volts. This won't be a full charge, it's just enough to get the battery management system to notice the battery again.
Best case scenario would be to purchase a hobby grade Lithium polymer charger for RC cars, and balance charge the battery through the balance leads.
@@VulcanGoF Thanks for the reply, that's a lot of helpful info. Based on that it looks like my battery is good now. I too also wondered why there was so much desoldering in the video.
@@targipgadponson5674 there really didn't need to be, unless one of the cells in the pack were actually dead. And even then, you wouldn't really need to desolder the ENTIRE pack. It would be a fairly easy task to replace with a cheap Amazon spot welder. They're like 20 something USD. Not really suggested for Building an E-vehicle battery , but for swapping a couple cells in a power tool pack, they're perfect.
ok, so I need a battery to fix my battery...great...
🤣
laptop charger is at 19v......
what a shitty charger that wont charge a flat battery......
Not needed, as i replied in one of the comment