Hi, excellent article mate. I have just changed the two upper strut mounts in my 2003 Mini Cooper today using yiour method. Your sequencing was spot on and easy to follow. Definitely had to use the spring tensioners, to get the top of the strut through the spring top and the new mount before securing the top nut. Thank you, this saved me about $400 for labour through a service centre. Appreciate your post. (Shane from Australia)
Great tip! This totally worked on the driver’s side. Unfortunately when I got to the passenger side the strut was blown, so it became a much bigger job. I ended-up doing strut mounts, struts, control arm bushings and inner/outer ball joints.
Im actually about to do this project this weekend. Instead of tediously jacking up each side to reseat into the mount, insert mount into tower, put nuts on finger tight both sides. Guide strut into mounts and thread nut onto mounts finger tight. Remount the wheels, lower vehicle onto its own weight and then torque down tower nuts and strut nut...Done 👍🏼
Thanks for the video. Great to see someone doing it right. The spring has enough energy to kill. Either replace the whole assembly or leave it inside the car. To make it easier compress the spring while the car is still on the ground. To further assist compression lift the rear opposite side until the wheel is off the ground. That would tilt the car forward and compress the spring more. Use shorter bolts if needed. Thanks again.
Many thanks for this video, I managed to change my mounts in 3 hours. Liked your top tip to do both sides simultaneously due to the ant-roll bar. Things I found 1) an older style 13/16 spark plug socket allows you to get an allen key in AND to turn it using a spanner - better than mole grips, 2) 2 people req'd to tighten that top nut - one to tighten, one to stop allen key turning. Thanks again
Did this today but my '04 R50 didn't have the space to tilt the strut (minus mount) into the wheel well like your S did. Barely had enough space to replace the mount & cup below it. I trimmed my wheel well liner a tiny to get the last spring compressor out. Without this video I would never have tried this way. Thank you!
Wow, that's a nice little trick! Safety Note: Never use jacks or jack stands on soft ground. They should only be used on a stable surface - concrete or asphalt. Probably OK for this sort of job but I wouldn't want to crawl under the vehicle. Using both jacks and jack stands is a good way to reduce the risk.
+Mod MINI Thanks! I'm a fan of yours and it's awesome to see your comment. That's a great point for anyone watching. I don't typically use the jack stands as primary support on soft ground, I use them for backup along with the jacks. In this case I was short on jacks because I had to lift both control arms at the same time to bolt the mounts back into the strut towers. I wouldn't go under the car held up only with a jack by itself or jack stand by itself in any case. If I go under the car I need at least two points/types of support, sometimes I throw a wheel under the car too.
Yes..Thank you for proving my point..I knew it could be done...i seen other videos and wrote if it could be lifted to remove the damage mount and you did it. The videos were done by professionals mechanics that had No idea and done the long process.
Way too hard for a beginner your video is excellent! Thanks to Covid and AutoZone not knowing how to install a battery has made me watch TH-cam to learn about my mini Cooper and now my hobby Working on my car
I have a 2006 R50 with factory sports suspension. I followed this method with success but found that when putting back together the damper rod wouldn’t go through the new top mount enough for me to get a nut over it. Took me a while to figure out the dampers had lost a little gas and had to forcefully encourage them through with vice grips, hammers, chisel and a screwdriver. I also needed the spring compressors to move the strut out of the way; it was not possible for me to pull and squeeze the unit out unfortunately! One hell of a work out but job done.
+jimbo booth Yea quite a bit easier and simpler then having to take all the lower attachments off just to replace something on top of the strut lol. Of course if you ever take struts apart when they're off the car, compressors are definitely needed
Great video, I'm going to replace both of mine soon as one side is mushrooming like mad, I was just wondering do I need the tensioner things as I dont have a set, can I not just lower the car onto the strut top? Like you did first but in reverse? Thanks
Why did you need the spring compressors? Couldn't you line up the top mount and then jack the control arm _before_ threading the strut-shaft-to-top-mount nut, thus compressing the spring?
Excellent video. Wouldn’t it be worth replacing the shocks as well? I have seen another informative video on here where they say a poor shock can cause the strut mount to go in the first place.
I honestly don't think the strut can have any impact on how the strut top wears. As for replacing them; if there's no sign of oil leaking or even misting leave them be!
Nice video bud.. Will be tackling the job myself following your guide. Any chance you could confirm whether the allen key is actually required? I will have to get a hold of a pair of selfgrip pliars in that case.
thanks man, if the shaft spins you will need the allen key....I was lucky and mine didn't spin, but if yours does you don't want to be without the tool to stop it
I tried it this way at first. I found it much harder than removing the struts all together. Prep is everything. Use penetrating spray on the nuts/bolts/strut tube the night before to make it easier.
Long story short I hope. Firestone replaced my front struts and mounts. Car was fine. Two weeks later I had an oil change and tire rotation. Then a sound started coming from that area. Took it back and they said the struts we're faulty but that the axel that fit in the boot was not good..they wanted to replace that along w new struts and mounts. ( Paid only for labor for the boot) Now 2 days later the sound is back. Any clue as to what they are doing wrong? Should they get Mini parts only?
Yo bro! Great awesome shitty video^. ( your words )haha! I was thinking UNDER TOWER INDURATORS so that mushroom won't happen* going to do Tha same on my Mini Cooper. but Tha problem is the towers are not shroom like that on mine. I'm trying to aligned Tha mini but cambers are off so thinking replacing strut mounts. Found out that only the dealer and some race import race place they do it professionally "alignment". cause the gas tank has to be full and they add weights on the passenger side driver side and Tha trunk. But I already payed 190 at Firestone for a lifetime. But Blah it's alright. It's not like I'm going to race haha. Cheers bro have fun doing vids. Keep up Tha awesome work.
Hi, excellent article mate. I have just changed the two upper strut mounts in my 2003 Mini Cooper today using yiour method. Your sequencing was spot on and easy to follow. Definitely had to use the spring tensioners, to get the top of the strut through the spring top and the new mount before securing the top nut. Thank you, this saved me about $400 for labour through a service centre. Appreciate your post. (Shane from Australia)
Great tip! This totally worked on the driver’s side.
Unfortunately when I got to the passenger side the strut was blown, so it became a much bigger job.
I ended-up doing strut mounts, struts, control arm bushings and inner/outer ball joints.
Im actually about to do this project this weekend. Instead of tediously jacking up each side to reseat into the mount, insert mount into tower, put nuts on finger tight both sides. Guide strut into mounts and thread nut onto mounts finger tight. Remount the wheels, lower vehicle onto its own weight and then torque down tower nuts and strut nut...Done 👍🏼
If you did this project then I would like to hear how it went. Specifically, any issues removing the top nut and later re-installing (2 people?).
Thanks for the video. Great to see someone doing it right. The spring has enough energy to kill. Either replace the whole assembly or leave it inside the car. To make it easier compress the spring while the car is still on the ground. To further assist compression lift the rear opposite side until the wheel is off the ground. That would tilt the car forward and compress the spring more. Use shorter bolts if needed. Thanks again.
Many thanks for this video, I managed to change my mounts in 3 hours. Liked your top tip to do both sides simultaneously due to the ant-roll bar. Things I found 1) an older style 13/16 spark plug socket allows you to get an allen key in AND to turn it using a spanner - better than mole grips, 2) 2 people req'd to tighten that top nut - one to tighten, one to stop allen key turning. Thanks again
Great tip regarding the spark plug socket! Cheers bud, doing this job today!
Did this today but my '04 R50 didn't have the space to tilt the strut (minus mount) into the wheel well like your S did. Barely had enough space to replace the mount & cup below it. I trimmed my wheel well liner a tiny to get the last spring compressor out. Without this video I would never have tried this way. Thank you!
Wow, that's a nice little trick! Safety Note: Never use jacks or jack stands on soft ground. They should only be used on a stable surface - concrete or asphalt. Probably OK for this sort of job but I wouldn't want to crawl under the vehicle. Using both jacks and jack stands is a good way to reduce the risk.
+Mod MINI Thanks! I'm a fan of yours and it's awesome to see your comment. That's a great point for anyone watching. I don't typically use the jack stands as primary support on soft ground, I use them for backup along with the jacks. In this case I was short on jacks because I had to lift both control arms at the same time to bolt the mounts back into the strut towers. I wouldn't go under the car held up only with a jack by itself or jack stand by itself in any case. If I go under the car I need at least two points/types of support, sometimes I throw a wheel under the car too.
A nice piece of thick ply board is great as a solid base for jacks and stands.
Yes..Thank you for proving my point..I knew it could be done...i seen other videos and wrote if it could be lifted to remove the damage mount and you did it. The videos were done by professionals mechanics that had No idea and done the long process.
Way too hard for a beginner your video is excellent! Thanks to Covid and AutoZone not knowing how to install a battery has made me watch TH-cam to learn about my mini Cooper and now my hobby Working on my car
I have a 2006 R50 with factory sports suspension. I followed this method with success but found that when putting back together the damper rod wouldn’t go through the new top mount enough for me to get a nut over it. Took me a while to figure out the dampers had lost a little gas and had to forcefully encourage them through with vice grips, hammers, chisel and a screwdriver. I also needed the spring compressors to move the strut out of the way; it was not possible for me to pull and squeeze the unit out unfortunately! One hell of a work out but job done.
Awesome trick. Without taking the whole suspension apart. Thanks
I've always been told to do it with the compressors how wrong they were lol. Your right it doing it this way makes it tons easier.
+jimbo booth Yea quite a bit easier and simpler then having to take all the lower attachments off just to replace something on top of the strut lol. Of course if you ever take struts apart when they're off the car, compressors are definitely needed
a DIY Car Guy totally
Great video, I'm going to replace both of mine soon as one side is mushrooming like mad, I was just wondering do I need the tensioner things as I dont have a set, can I not just lower the car onto the strut top? Like you did first but in reverse? Thanks
Why did you need the spring compressors? Couldn't you line up the top mount and then jack the control arm _before_ threading the strut-shaft-to-top-mount nut, thus compressing the spring?
I don't remember, but there was a reason, because I'm pretty sure I tried that.
Excellent video. Wouldn’t it be worth replacing the shocks as well? I have seen another informative video on here where they say a poor shock can cause the strut mount to go in the first place.
For sure, I replaced the shocks eventually
I honestly don't think the strut can have any impact on how the strut top wears.
As for replacing them; if there's no sign of oil leaking or even misting leave them be!
4 hour job! Congratulations Kicked ass video was great
Nice video bud.. Will be tackling the job myself following your guide.
Any chance you could confirm whether the allen key is actually required? I will have to get a hold of a pair of selfgrip pliars in that case.
thanks man, if the shaft spins you will need the allen key....I was lucky and mine didn't spin, but if yours does you don't want to be without the tool to stop it
If you did this project then I would like to hear if you ended up needing the allen key?
I tried it this way at first. I found it much harder than removing the struts all together. Prep is everything. Use penetrating spray on the nuts/bolts/strut tube the night before to make it easier.
Great video. I’ll be using this to help so then on my Mrs’s Mini 👌
Can I do one side at a time by disconnecting the sway bar link? I have only one jack with 4 jack stands.
OMGosh I’m so happy to fine you video! Thank you !
Long story short I hope. Firestone replaced my front struts and mounts. Car was fine. Two weeks later I had an oil change and tire rotation. Then a sound started coming from that area. Took it back and they said the struts we're faulty but that the axel that fit in the boot was not good..they wanted to replace that along w new struts and mounts. ( Paid only for labor for the boot) Now 2 days later the sound is back. Any clue as to what they are doing wrong? Should they get Mini parts only?
I don't know, I use aftermarket parts. What kind of sound is it...clunk or hum or squeal or ?
Am I able to replace only the passanger side strut mount without doing the drivers side ?
Yes, I did. Only lifted passenger side. Used a 5’ pry bar above sway bar and under A arm to bring strut down.
Yo bro! Great awesome shitty video^. ( your words )haha!
I was thinking UNDER TOWER INDURATORS so that mushroom won't happen* going to do Tha same on my Mini Cooper. but Tha problem is the towers are not shroom like that on mine. I'm trying to aligned Tha mini but cambers are off so thinking replacing strut mounts. Found out that only the dealer and some race import race place they do it professionally "alignment". cause the gas tank has to be full and they add weights on the passenger side driver side and Tha trunk. But I already payed 190 at Firestone for a lifetime. But Blah it's alright. It's not like I'm going to race haha. Cheers bro have fun doing vids. Keep up Tha awesome work.
Thanks man haha! I didn't know they had to do all that for the alignment. The indurators are always a good thing to put on!
Can this be done on 2006 mazda 3s ?
Is it imposible to do that in r56s ? thanks in advance..
Really why
are those cracks in the new one on the passenger side?
nope, you might be seeing the layer of paint that was on the rubber
I recently got my strut mounts replaced in my 2005 Mini Cooper S JCW.
Will this process work on an R56?
It should work, it would be a similar process for most cars
Nice work.
+thesqaanalyst thanks!
serious mushrooming in your strut towers!!
+Nuno Real tell me about it lol
Use a socket with a hex headed top for better grip :-)