I know this is an old video, but if you happen upon it here's a hint: When you're pushing the pistons back into the caliper, put the OLD pad on the pistons and use a C-clamp. It will push BOTH pistons at the same time so they don't push each other out, and it adds a spacer (the old pad) to get the pistons all the way back. Great video. Thanks.
Funny coincidence I bough these pads last month, I have a quick question, when I lightly cover the breaks and apply a little pressure they kind of make a funny noise ( like a sssssss noise) that stock brakes didn't, its not really a sequel (so I don't think they are vibrating although I didn't use any copper grease when they were installed...) but when I apply more pressure the sound goes away. Also if I apply alot of pressure and then just cover them again there in no noise, so I think it maybe temperature related? any thoughts? have I done anything wrong? Ride safe!
Blimey Josh, top marks mate, you've clearly got them set up perfectly! That noice which you describe kind of a 'skissssh' sound is sononymous with high performance brakes and it is purely the temperature leveling out as you apply them... quite normal, and quite correct... there's usually no need for copper grease on copper backed pads, as they don't vibrate like organic ones, Take Care mate, and safe braking! Del
Hey buddy, I'm just looking for my brake pads for my yamaha yzf r125 on eBay for some reason i can't find sintered HH brake pads for the rear (found the front ones), is there a alternative compound i should/could get? Thanks in advance.
Contact someone like 'Busters' or 'M&P' to check if EBC even make sinterered pads for the rear of your bike, if they don't then regular EBC organic pads will be fine... the front ones will make a big difference buddy...
Hey Carlos.... Yes mate, the Copper Sintered pads are perfect for your Harley... i use them in my Fatboy and they made a big improvement... Let us know how they feel after you change them.! Del.
Particularly with a relatively unworn rotor, brand-new brake pads can offer some resistance as you’re mounting the caliper, even if the pistons are fully retracted. To overcome that, I squirt a bit of brake cleaner on either side of the disc. This provides a temporary lubricating film, the pads slide right onto the disc, and the brake cleaner evaporates in seconds, leaving no lubricant residue.
What a brilliant idea Tom, hadn't thought of that, and I shall do it next time, it can be a real bun fight to force new pads over a brand new disc, this is a great solution !
Del, after all the help that you have been to me, it is wonderful to hear that I have been of help of some sort to you ... in however small a way. Linda and I send our best to you and Penny..
One recommendation I would use is while you have the old pads in, compress the pad that contacts the pistons to make sure it applies force evenly. Small tip. Great video!
Man, great video! Simple, with no additional BS as usual on other channels, and well explained. Like Your videos, I even watching some of Your videos just because it is pleasant to watch, never boring. Every now and then I recommend your videos to my clients if they need some additional information or tutorial about replacing or adjusting something on bike. I work as professional stunt driver over a decade and I know things or two. :) You have interesting video about cleaning the ``chicken stripe`` of tire, very useful as I may add, but there is even better way to do it...I might write in comments below that video if You agree, or You can make another video with that way of cleaning the stripe.. Keep it up!
Also what else do you recommend using the copper anti sieze on as far as front brake swap goes? I’m going to just use brake clean and a scouring pad to clean the discs and just want to be sure if that will do the trick? I have about 12-14,000 miles on my existing pads that I’m upgrading to double h ebc. I don’t need to bleed the system since it’s crystal clear and I have never had an issue. I did have fluid flushed at around 10k but, didn’t need pads at the time. Would you use the copper anti sieze loctite on any of the front brake bolts as well?
Hi buddy, just so I can work through your many questions and not forget any... firstly, de-glazing the disc, it doesn't really make much difference, I wouldn't use an abrasive paper, as not only is there no point, but you can but score marks in the disc, which it doesn't need to have... but you could certainly use a Scotchpad and hot soapy water and work it all round the disc to give it a good deep clean and get any road grime off and out of the grooves.... so cleaning, rather than scuffing. With the brake pins, I choose not to grease mine, most will recommend some of the appropriate compound on the pins, but I've always taken the view that this, being soft, can attract grit and brake dust, causing them to get gummed up, ok they won't rust, but if they're gummed up, then the pads can't move freely across them, so I just take them out altogether, stick them in an electric drill to 'spin' them, then using a Scotchpad, polish the up to a shiny finish... you can replace them with new stainless ones quite cheaply if you want to. With regard to the brake bolts, which hold the caliper to the leg, it depends what bolts you're using... if you're using regular steel bolts, then I use some anti-seize compound, either the graphite or the copper version is fine, and this will stop the bolts rusting in place... but if you're using stainless bolts to hold your calipers in, then I use some threadlock to hold them in, as obviously stainless bolts won't corrode, so you don't need the anti-seize, and threadlock will keep them in place... finally, once youv'e got them all assembled, if you've found your brakes tend to 'squeal', you can add a little smear of anti-seize compound to the BACK of the brake pads at that will absorb the vibration that leads to squealing, but not too much, you must make sure it doesn't ooze out and get on to the disc... hope that helps you my friend, good luck with it, let us know how you get on !
Very helpful, both of you. Thanks. When you push the pads in should you remove/loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap keeping an eye on the fluid level as you do so, allowing air to air to escape making pushing the pads back into the callipers ever so slightly easier also using a wad of cloths around just in case pushing the pistons back in raises the level so it overflows? Just noticed you don't wear gloves preferring the aux naturel approach when working on your bikes?
I know this is an old video but delboy's videos are some of the absolute best sources of information for the noob motorcycle rider who wants to look after their own stead themselves. I thought I would need to use my local motorcycle service centre but with the quality of intelligent information you provide, I think I can give this a go myself. Thank you delboy, you are truly a legend!
Thank you my friend, you're very kind... we don't deserve such generous praise, it's just basic stuff and we're happy to share it, we see it as no more than housekeeping, and we're really glad it can help you... ride safe!
I know its bad but ive never used a torque wrench, no bolts ever come loose and non snapped, a basic feel for the size of the nut/bolt has worked for me. But if it was a large engine with critical limits i would buy one :) perhaps ha ha :)
If you've been at it long enough you do get a feel for them, but these days with more critical settings and specs on machinery, it might pay to treat yourself, if nothing else, that peace of mind is quite comforting!
I find that copper grease on the pins helps with the service life of my brakes. Especially in winter. Always clean the road crud off the pistons before pushing them back in to the calliper.you risk ruining the seals
Excellent as always, and you even addressed my question (do sintered pads wear the disks quicker) before I had a chance to ask! One word of caution, when you press those pots back into the caliper watch you haven't filled the reservoir in the meantime (with the pads low) or you are gonna get brake fluid gushing out - would you normally take the reservoir cap off to assist in pushing the pots back into the caliper?
If you know your bike, and do your own maintenece, then you will know if you've topped up your fluid...i have not, anf the fluid level was right at the bottom of the reservior, so i knew it would just push the fluid back up to the top level...and as it was replaced last year its fine to last for another 12 months.... and no, you dont need to remove the cap as they all have a vent hole to level the air pressure inside..
Yeh,sound vids DB,nice and confident and well explained,that's the main thing...Seems you have examples of anything that needs our attention . Long may you continue,and great Cam quality from your Lady friend also [crucial!] Thanks both not forgetting the mad machines...Maybe one day I'll get to ride a Triumph Scrambler.Ace
Hi del just be careful with the HH you don't lock up the back wheel. I have been a courier 15 years the HH can catch you out a courier in Dublin where most of the public over 55 years got their licence in a lucky bag love your stuff
Hello mate, Yankee Chris sent me a link to some Goldfren sintered pads for my B6. They're half the price of EBCs and a background search shows they are a well respected company, so worth a shot. The discs look okay, ideally I would change rotor and pads together but I'm not made of money. Another nice little video, cheers
So, my OEM Honda pads are like $37. There's few options for me, but should I go aftermarket? There's like 2 out of 9 that cost more than the OEM. Some are the same price and others a cheaper.
can't watch this, pushing dirty pistons back through the seal, no pin serviced! Just spend 3 pounds on brake cleaner and 2 minutes to clean the caliper and pistons. Also, I would prefer organic at the back, for better control, no need for "initial bite" or high performance, or either they rich high temps on slow riding or approaching a stop.
NEVER press the cylinders in before cleaning them perfectly. You can and will push dirt into the o ring that keeps oil inside the caliper and the brakes can start leaking oil. Always clean BEFORE pushing them in!!
If the caliper is out he should wash it with water and soap, its not a good idea to install new brake pads on a dirty caliper, or spray it with brake cleaner. The quality is on the details....
Very informative! I have been using EBC HH pads on my track bike for the last two riding seasons and like them a lot; I'll probably use them on my SV650 street bike when I renew those pads this year.
these are great pads, almost. I have a buzzing sound or locust like sound that comes from this type of pads,hh sintered. I don't use grease or the stick that you use because I don't have a squeal issue. would you know what is causing this noise. bike is an '01 honda shadow 1100.
Hi buddy, the noise you hear is best described as a 'skishshsh' and quite normal, and correct for these pads, they're a metallic pad material (much softer than the disc itself) and metal to metal will always make a noise, don't fret it buddy, it's doing what it should !
Del, you should open your own MC garage/repaishop/school ffs ..even for guy like me who's english language is like 4 cylinder engine but just 2 of those is running att follow u is easy as hell ...I can't agree more on aemonn colley comment below... ewesome explanations and vids !!!! keep up the good work .cheers
+Vito GanjaKid Hi Vito... thanks mate, you are very kind! I would love to have a motorcycle school, but setting up a business is a nightmare and if people had to pay for it, I guess they could take their bike to the dealer to be fixed lol ! And also You Tube is great because it reaches people all around the world.. we have had many contacts tonight from South America, Columbia, Mexico, Brazil, etc., and we could not do that with a local bike shop... you keep watching, we'll keep making videos!
Just had to drop a note, bought a bike in October, been quite awhile since I owned one, just wanted to say if it were not for your videos I would be absolutely lost, and broke! So far ... I have lowered the rear, changed crank case oil, adjusted clutch, adjusted throttle cables,did a brake service, and installed some biltwell keystone bars!! Could not have done any of this without your vids, can't tell u how much I appreciate all u do, also u are spot on with the F.R.O. vids as well! Cheers mate! Look forward to many more..
Hi Tony, thank you most kindly Sir... that is really kind of you... and we're so glad to hear the videos are able to help you.. it's great to find an audience when you put the time in to it that we do... great long list of jobs there mate and hope you are going to treat Mrs Payne with the money you've saved lol! All the best, see you on the road, Del
Maybe I've just been lucky but I've never added grease and never had squeaky breaks, surely sintered pads are slightly porous could it not be possible for grease to seep through the pad? I know moto gp and superbikes don't use grease on there brakes..... Apart from that I've learnt a huge amount with your vids and always take a look when I'm working on my bike.
I think it's important to lose the connection with the word "Grease" in the case of this Copper based product it's a misnomer because that implies a lubricant, and this is an antiseize compound, designed to provide a non ferrous barrier between metals and inhibit corrosion, and in fact it is detrimental to use it as a lubricant between two surfaces that will slide across each other, it will then act as an aggregate and erode them. In the old fashioned and very common practice of using a small wipe of Copper Slip on the BACK of a brake pad it acts as no more than a damper to absorb high frequency vibration that leads to a squeal, only use it if your brakes squeal, because that all it's for, a vibration inhibitor, Brake these days tend not to squeal, but with older bikes it was very common, hence why so many younger and less experience riders get their pants in a bunch over it, because they simply dont understand it..and some people will naturally confront what they don't understand and no mate.. it will not "seep through" your brake pad, what ever the porosity of the lining material, they have a solid steel backing.!!!
Just an update from today Del: I've succesfully removed all the remaining 7 studs!:) Prep for painting start tomorrow!:) Metallic black+fazer rim stickers+varnish! Can't wait! Keep up with the good videos Del! Cheers Attila
Wel done Attila, good job on the bolts, they are always stubborn and it's good to get them out cleanly... hope the rest goes well for you, take care, Del
I installed the Sintered HH pads on my Rocket 3 and didn't like them at all. Noisy, grabby and I could visibly see the scratching of the disc. They were some of the strongest braking I have ever had but didn't like the other issues. Replaced with OEM grade and all was better.
Colin Kessler These are all things I've said against sintered pads in the past, they will eat your discs and they do take some getting used to, but I guess for some people braking efficiency is their first concern, specially on a 12ton bike, like a Rocket3... the OEM pads are always more than adequate and as with all things in life, there's always an up-grade if you want it ... thanks for watching!
Just realised why I hadn't been getting your vids up Del, I was unsubscribed to your channel, no ide how that happened. I got a lot of catching up to do mate this was the last one I watched. Sham we didn't have much time to catch up yesterday, but hopefully we will hav more time at Beaulieu. Gave the bike a bit more RPM on the way home.
Gray Viper Hi Geoff, yeah we did wonder, we saw the sub pop in ! Am so sorry we never got a chance to have a good look round the Versys on Sunday, it was just manic, it's always irritating at these shows, with so many of us there, we never get a proper chance to chat to anyone for very long before something else grabs your attention... we never even got time to just stroll round the bikes and look at them all ! So yeah, Beaulieu will be perfect, we'll come up and meet you the night before for a shandy ! See you soon mate
Just changed my pads on the rear of my 2015 triumph, the new pads were EBC, now my concern is my old pads have a honeycomb chrome plate on the rear that hooks over the edge of the pad, now these don't fit on the new pads as the new pad backs are slightly larger, I have fitted the pads without these plates but do you think I should cut off the tabs and fit them anyway, are they just a anti shim plates ? Your advice would be appreciated 👍 cheers great vids 👍
Thanks Will, it's a little bit of nerdy knowledge, but being OCD I like to understand things fully rather than just trusting reputation... a race pad is H rated, but has other qualities, such as greater heat disipation and shamphered leading edges, but are rubbihs in cold weather
Another great vid, thanks. I've just put Hel braided lines on the front, they are a bit better braking wise, but not a lot. Do you think sintered pads are the next upgrade? Do they last as long as a cheaper pad? One more thing, do aftermarket adjustable levers make any difference, or are they an aesthetic/comfort ting only?. Keep up the good work mate, fantastic vids
James Bond Hi James, the adjustable levers are purely a comfort thing, unless you have tiny hands, like Penny, then they are essential! Upgrading to braided hoses once used to have an astonishing effect on improving the brakes, but these days the rubber hoses are far better quality and don't swell as much, so the improvement is less marked... Sintered pads are the next upgrade and they will make a big improvement, but be aware that they are quite aggressive on the discs and will eat them quicker... if you don't mind about that, then get them all round and you'll see a big difference... hope that helps mate !
Another great video Dell. I helped my oldest change the pads on his car the other day. It simply reinforced why it is I enjoy working on bikes so much. Scrabbling around on the concrete, under the bloody car, came out looking like a coal miner and just a trolley jack to use. Now he knows how to do it, so next time...............
Can you do a service on a front brake system on a Harley Davidson Springer there is not one on TH-cam specific to the Springer front end completely different braking system thank you D B
Yet another one of lifes' little mysteries solved! Getting more edumacated all the time :) Really tho, didn't know any of this beforehand. Cheers guys!
Hello mate, bloody love that cap, very fetching lol! Picked me new wheels up for the Scrambler today, so if I can find the time after work this week, I'll be bolting them in... can't wait... then if it warms up enough, it's time for some paint on Penny's bike! Se you Sunday mate, really looking forward to meeting you mate!
Thanks Delboy for educating me in the type of brake pads to use on my 15 year old kwaka. My wife has just bought me this bike for my 60th birthday, after not having a bike for 20 years, watching you videos is giving me the confidence to maintain and keep it like a new bike. Thank you delboy best wishes to Penny pitstop.
Hi Tommy, that's fantastic news mate and welcome back to biking brother! Where have you been lol! ...it's really cool that the videos can help you and it sounds like you ought to join ou Idiot Collective forum and make some new bike mates to go with your new bike ... check us all out at: www.idiotcollective.com ... get yourself registered and introduce yourself, we have meets all the over the place at least once a month! Welcome aboard mate!
Very informative video mate, i just learnt alot there, i usually go for the cheapest, now i understand the grading behind it all, I'll shop more wisely, 😎
Del firstly thanks for always replying, bought a set for the cbr, couple of questions would you copper slip inbetween the heat shim and pads? And also there is a plastic shim which I assume is to aid with no rattling?, and is the pan pin a no no?? Cheers
Hi mate, just a thin smear of copper slip between the pad and the shim is fine, but I mean a very small amount... and what do you mean by 'pan pin'... do you mean grease the pad pin?? If so, then NO, they must be bone dry and clean... hope that helps mate, good luck!
I almost always learn something new and useful from your vids. Although I have been using them for years, I really never understood what the term "sintered" actually meant. I have been running with EBC HH pads on my souped up Buell X1 Lightning for a while now and have found them to be top notch. Thanks again, and keep 'em coming
what grease if any would you recommend when putting ur wheels back on the spindle?got the bike back from paint and going to be building her tomorrow hopefully
Hi Jayson, just some regular ordinary LM grease is fine for your axle... nothing special, and not too much either, just a light smear along it's length... hope that helps, good luck with the re-build!
Hi del can you do a video on the best bike for all round work horse I had vstrom 650 that did fore hundred thousand km on it k7 this bike is still going I sold it to a polish guy and he has had it to Poland its un believable. The tiger that you have is along the same lines
I can't really do a video like that cos I wouldn't know where to start, any modern bike these days will go round the world, the average Triumph Triple will do a quarter million with the right care and we know of a Harley Tour Glide 1340 Evo that did 400k in two laps round the world... and never got stripped below the base gaskets! It's all about how you look after them and how you ride them these days!
Hi Again Carlos... just did a little searching, these guys sell EBC Sintered you may need to do a little more searching of maybe call them to ask if they can supply for your Heritage..! www.jpcycles.com/product/244-646?DSA%2520-%2520general&cid=Google+SEARCH+NON-BRAND+none&adpos=1t4&creative=82456140610&device=c&matchtype=b&network=g&gclid=CO7Tk6aomtECFYwQ0wod1h0M1w
I am a bit concerned that sintered pads are being put on the rear of a street bike. The risk of locking rear and fishtailing especially for a new rider is my reason to worry. Will it not be best to use sintered in front and organic - regular in rear?
As a new rider, remember what your instructor told you, which should have been go gently on the rear brake... it's more a brake to steady the bike, than stop the bike, it's also excellent for slowing down with a pillion on, because it prevents forward rotation of the frame and diving, but don't criticise efficient brakes for being too efficient, simply apply the brakes accordingly, it's hardly right to deliberately opt for weaker brakes so they don't work too well, surely better to have efficient brakes of the finest quality and use them sensitively , and of course, practice your riding and hone your skills... you only truly begin learning 'after' you pass your test...
Thank you most kindly Sir, that is much appreciated... it's good fun hobby and if it can help a few fellow bikers at the same time, then it's a win all round!
If you're going to use it at all, then a thin smear on the back of each pad, but if you want to, you can install them dry and see if they squeal first... if the brake doesn't squeal, just leave them dry , if it does pop a little on both - and obviously the BACKS only...
Hi Steve..Good points mate, .the disc eating issue is a bit overstated.. they will wear more but if you temper your braking and use the extra power they have only when you really need it.. then you'll be fine..
Moonfleet41 Just fitted a new rear tyre on the Bird and guess what. Yep, need new rear pads lol EBC HH from Demon Tweeks for less than £22 delivered. Happy with that :)
That's a good idea mate, it has been that long now, and it's a great helmet... I was also looking for something to review, so perhaps, I'll chuck that up this week if I get time!
as well as the hardware advise he also gives top intelligent, safe and economical advice on riding , look and think ahead avoiding hard, unnecessary and potentially dangerous braking
+zzzpip Hi buddy....the friction on the disc is irrelavant, they are made to take it so dont worry, and the pads will work right from the box on a newish bike with healthy smooth discs....if its an older bike and the discs are heavily grooved, then it could be about 50 miles of town riding or so before you get full grip....but these Sintered pads will still work fine even when just fitted.... Hope that helps.. Del.
Hi there! Really awesome chanel! Got a (stupid) question: What about "cheao chinese"pads? Saw on ebay 3 sets (2 front + 1 rear) for less than 40 USD. Worth a try or not even think about it? Thanks a lot!
I think you've already answered your own question buddy, like you say, in the US, 'it's your ass dude' ... I wouldn't go there unless I had absolutely no other choice!
Sorry about the unorganized questions! I was just shooting out what came to mind last second. I’ll be installing the pads in an hour or so and they are the HH EBC copper sintered front pads. I’m going to use your method moon. I’ll just clean the pins but not lube them. Oh one question lol I promise. Will the brake Kleen Work as well as the soap n water? I notice a lot of guys using contact cleaner but didn’t think it will make a big difference. I couldn’t pass up getting my last use of front pads today in Nyc since it’s beautiful out. 52 degrees is like summer when ya ride all year round lol.
Hi again buddy, with the contact cleaner, I've never used that myself, if I'm gonna use a spray, I go with 'brake and carb cleaner' which is made for the job... it dries away really quickly and leaves no residue, good luck with it... it's great to hear from you all the way from NYC, it sounds great there, warm and sunny... I watch videos of guys riding round the city and it's a place I'd love to visit ! Keep in touch, always be good to hear from you !
Hi again buddy, with the contact cleaner, I've never used that myself, if I'm gonna use a spray, I go with 'brake and carb cleaner' which is made for the job... it dries away really quickly and leaves no residue, good luck with it... it's great to hear from you all the way from NYC, it sounds great there, warm and sunny... I watch videos of guys riding round the city and it's a place I'd love to visit ! Keep in touch, always be good to hear from you !
Really great stuff! I honestly trust your work and just wanna get it right the first time. I’m really gonna promote your videos on my crews page. NYC GOTHAM RIDERS. Feel free to join up I’ll accept you right away. Also I will put my questions in numbered order now that I know you take the time to answer. Great job! Much appreciated. T FZ RIDA
Hey Del! Please enlighten us about the bedding in process after the change. I also need to change the rear set but have no clue how to introduce the new pad to the used disc. Thanks! :) Top
If you're going with copper sintered mate, then, unbelievably, there's practically no bedding in period, they will work better than your old ones within half a dozen stabs, but normally, on regular pads, just take it easy and don't rely on them too much for the first few days, avoid gentle prolonged use which builds up heat, but instead, use short and slightly more 'aggressive' stabs of the pedal to scuff them in whilst not letting them get too hot! Hope that helps, Del
I like that "Butter On a Biscuit" thxs 4 the video copper is softer thas the disk metal, souds good 4 me... "Think AHead" another lesson again! LOL (NRN)
I can never thumbs up your videos. SO.... 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 To make up for all the videos I could not thumps up. Great work. Keep up the good videos.
Ha ha, Thanks Jose....i can still see them if you click the thumbs up icon...i just hid the count because the poison trolls like to amuse thier tiny brains by posting dislikes....bless them.!
I chose EBC double H sintered pads for an FZ6 Yamaha that was ready for new pads. There was a dramatic performance over the stock pads. Make sure you buy EBC or rebutable brands. I tried a knock off cheap ebay brand that was "HH Sintered" and they were awful....worse than stock. When I sold the bike the gentleman contacted me to tell me how impressed he was with the brakes.
I will be straight with you mate - never used them ! But I hear good things, I think any EBC pad is a quality product, and will do what it's meant to do, but because I've always been such a stickler for crisp, sharp brakes, I've always just gone for copper sintered every time, sorry I can't be more help mate - let us know how you get on with them, I would be interested to hear!
Great timing. Came across your video, and as a noob to biking your video really helped me out. Fitted these on the front and rear of my Honda hornet this morning. Great pads, great advice. Thanks very much.
also i would like to add .. the chopper is used the the pads to make them heat up fasters as to the soft metal why chopper.? well chopper carrys the heat better then any the eles apart from Gold..! just thougth i would add the to a very well explanation video..! and yes EBC are the best..!!! :)
nice instructions. . I would have used a little brake fluid on a clean cloth to wipe the pistons, then some red rubber grease b4 pushing them in. but that's just me
@ moonfleet. I appreciate the reply and honestly wasn’t expecting one lol. I’m glad us riders stick together. That’s exactly what I bought was the mixed pack of scrub pads by scotch brite. I was just a little concerned about the copper anti seize getting onto the pads just like you mentioned. Some guys were telling me it’s good to use sandpaper and it just didn’t sit right with me. THANK YOU!!
Hi, liking the vid's. I got a bonneville from 2001 and in need of new brake disc's , they are at the min thickness . Thanks to your vid when know about the pads now , but with are your thoughts on disc's. There are some different brands and prises that go with them , I know don't cut corners on brakes . Looking forward to hear from you . Kind regards From Belgium Wout
Hi Wout, I would imagine the Triumph genuine discs are the best and probably the same kind of price as after market ones, but I don't have experience of changing these discs, or buying different ones, so can't help much further than that... good luck with it!
Moonfleet41 Thanks for the input , I will put some aftermarkets on , UK made claim to be better than originals. It is easier to get than originals from the local dealer .
Moonfleet41 Just to let you know. fitted the brake disc's , new sintered pads and a steel brake line for the front , with a world of difference it makes . I did rebuild the brake calipers when I first got the bike , the reason being the back caliper was locked up due to standing stil to long . Love messing around with it . Ride safe
Hi Neil....it ,akes no difference, if you have 'lesser' pads, then you just tend to brake harder to get them to stop....try these out, they have so much feel and bite, that you barely need to touch them by comparison, then just brake more carefully...and then the day you need some real braking force in an emergency... just step on them a bit harder.. your choice mate, but i think you should dumb down your braking enthusiasm and not your equipment.....
I just got gg organic ebc fronts for the bandit 12 as i thought hh would wear quicker and not be so good cold..well now youve explained it i needent have been so picky..great vid mate and very informative..i like your unbiased views on all these things.."heres whats available heres what it does you choose" sort of vibe..thats rare, most people are more " do this do that"...
Ayup Springy.....as long as the chosen pad is "double lettered" so 'GG' or 'HH' then thats rated good at hot or cold....and the difference between G and H is only going to be ferlt at the top of its range....also on the front, you have two discs and they're bigger... so they'll be fine... the Tigers are renouned for eating thier back pads...so the sharpest friction pads mean less pressure is required in the hope that they'll actually last longer...who know...but for now, they're bloody awesome.. ten times more feel than before..
Just found and subscribed to you page after looking how to change pads on my explorer, as im a complete nugget when it comes to bike maintenance. Hopefully you will have a vid about changing tbe real disc as mine is a bit scored, going hunting. ordered the ebc pads to install tomorrow, had a practice tonight based on your vid, very easy many thanks
Another excellent video from Delboys Garage. Some of it I knew, some not. Particularly enjoyed the explanation of E to HH pad ratings. Merci Patron.................
Do you recommend always deglazing the discs when changing pads to sintered ebc from organic oem crap on front? Also what about greasing the pins slightly?
ahh I should of said I have a cbr600f, the rear is good but not great, front is fine, fluid is always renewed every two years, thought maybe EBCs or brembos only on the rear what do you think?
***** Well, sports bike front brakes are always more than adequate and it sounds like you take good care of them but conversely, sports bikes tend to have pretty feeble back brakes, so a little up-grade with some double H pads, would be a great move...!
Just a note while you have the "pad pins" out, make sure they are round and not worn with a shiny groove on one side or the pads will tip in following that groove when braking and wear on an angle.
I had ebc hh in the fronts on the bandit and replaced them with ferodo sintered hh i would say they are rubbish cant wait for them to wear out so i can put the ebc pads on again they get my vote running them on the rear too
Hi Aaron, how much is it worth to put up with rubbish brake pads that you're not happy with... for what it's worth mate, and for what it will cost you, just chuck 'em out and replace them... the guys I got these from charge £64 for 3 pairs... and with the way that would transform your bike, surely it's worth it???!
Yeah i know your right i there not dangerous but there not as good as they could be i probably will give in and get some but spending 40 quid on front brake pads when there still new goes against the grain a little haha
No, not as much mate... and they will grip a lot better than standard pads, so you don' squeeze them as hard, which further helps keep the dust and the wear to a minimum... !
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I know this is an old video, but if you happen upon it here's a hint: When you're pushing the pistons back into the caliper, put the OLD pad on the pistons and use a C-clamp. It will push BOTH pistons at the same time so they don't push each other out, and it adds a spacer (the old pad) to get the pistons all the way back.
Great video. Thanks.
Thank you.
Sintered pads great road pad.Excellant braking & long life.Ride safe.
Too right Denis, gonna upgrade to Sintered on the Harley once i chomp through the current ones...which wont be long..lol
as always great and informative video
Top job, i love this channel
Thanks Jonathan, that's very kind of you mate, we appreciate the support!
Funny coincidence I bough these pads last month, I have a quick question, when I lightly cover the breaks and apply a little pressure they kind of make a funny noise ( like a sssssss noise) that stock brakes didn't, its not really a sequel (so I don't think they are vibrating although I didn't use any copper grease when they were installed...) but when I apply more pressure the sound goes away. Also if I apply alot of pressure and then just cover them again there in no noise, so I think it maybe temperature related? any thoughts? have I done anything wrong?
Ride safe!
Blimey Josh, top marks mate, you've clearly got them set up perfectly! That noice which you describe kind of a 'skissssh' sound is sononymous with high performance brakes and it is purely the temperature leveling out as you apply them... quite normal, and quite correct... there's usually no need for copper grease on copper backed pads, as they don't vibrate like organic ones, Take Care mate, and safe braking! Del
Moonfleet41 Ok thats great to hear, ride safe man
Hey buddy, I'm just looking for my brake pads for my yamaha yzf r125 on eBay for some reason i can't find sintered HH brake pads for the rear (found the front ones), is there a alternative compound i should/could get?
Thanks in advance.
Contact someone like 'Busters' or 'M&P' to check if EBC even make sinterered pads for the rear of your bike, if they don't then regular EBC organic pads will be fine... the front ones will make a big difference buddy...
And don't forget, never put sintered HH pads in the rear wit GG on the front.
Hey Del.. I have a 2014 Heritage softail are those EBC brake pads good for my bike?
Hey Carlos.... Yes mate, the Copper Sintered pads are perfect for your Harley... i use them in my Fatboy and they made a big improvement... Let us know how they feel after you change them.! Del.
👍👍
Man, I love your vids! I learn something new every time. Great explanations!
Thanks mate, you're very kind!
Moonfleet41 f
U make great vids my friend.thx a lot for sharing your knowledge
Don`t forget to pump the brake at the end to push the pads into position.
Particularly with a relatively unworn rotor, brand-new brake pads can offer some resistance as you’re mounting the caliper, even if the pistons are fully retracted. To overcome that, I squirt a bit of brake cleaner on either side of the disc. This provides a temporary lubricating film, the pads slide right onto the disc, and the brake cleaner evaporates in seconds, leaving no lubricant residue.
What a brilliant idea Tom, hadn't thought of that, and I shall do it next time, it can be a real bun fight to force new pads over a brand new disc, this is a great solution !
Del, after all the help that you have been to me, it is wonderful to hear that I have been of help of some sort to you ... in however small a way. Linda and I send our best to you and Penny..
One recommendation I would use is while you have the old pads in, compress the pad that contacts the pistons to make sure it applies force evenly. Small tip. Great video!
Just put these on my cruiser looking forward to giving them a go
Man, great video! Simple, with no additional BS as usual on other channels, and well explained.
Like Your videos, I even watching some of Your videos just because it is pleasant to watch, never boring.
Every now and then I recommend your videos to my clients if they need some additional information or tutorial about replacing or adjusting something on bike.
I work as professional stunt driver over a decade and I know things or two. :)
You have interesting video about cleaning the ``chicken stripe`` of tire, very useful as I may add, but there is even better way to do it...I might write in comments below that video if You agree, or You can make another video with that way of cleaning the stripe..
Keep it up!
Also what else do you recommend using the copper anti sieze on as far as front brake swap goes? I’m going to just use brake clean and a scouring pad to clean the discs and just want to be sure if that will do the trick? I have about 12-14,000 miles on my existing pads that I’m upgrading to double h ebc. I don’t need to bleed the system since it’s crystal clear and I have never had an issue. I did have fluid flushed at around 10k but, didn’t need pads at the time. Would you use the copper anti sieze loctite on any of the front brake bolts as well?
Hi buddy, just so I can work through your many questions and not forget any... firstly, de-glazing the disc, it doesn't really make much difference, I wouldn't use an abrasive paper, as not only is there no point, but you can but score marks in the disc, which it doesn't need to have... but you could certainly use a Scotchpad and hot soapy water and work it all round the disc to give it a good deep clean and get any road grime off and out of the grooves.... so cleaning, rather than scuffing.
With the brake pins, I choose not to grease mine, most will recommend some of the appropriate compound on the pins, but I've always taken the view that this, being soft, can attract grit and brake dust, causing them to get gummed up, ok they won't rust, but if they're gummed up, then the pads can't move freely across them, so I just take them out altogether, stick them in an electric drill to 'spin' them, then using a Scotchpad, polish the up to a shiny finish... you can replace them with new stainless ones quite cheaply if you want to.
With regard to the brake bolts, which hold the caliper to the leg, it depends what bolts you're using... if you're using regular steel bolts, then I use some anti-seize compound, either the graphite or the copper version is fine, and this will stop the bolts rusting in place... but if you're using stainless bolts to hold your calipers in, then I use some threadlock to hold them in, as obviously stainless bolts won't corrode, so you don't need the anti-seize, and threadlock will keep them in place... finally, once youv'e got them all assembled, if you've found your brakes tend to 'squeal', you can add a little smear of anti-seize compound to the BACK of the brake pads at that will absorb the vibration that leads to squealing, but not too much, you must make sure it doesn't ooze out and get on to the disc... hope that helps you my friend, good luck with it, let us know how you get on !
Very helpful, both of you. Thanks.
When you push the pads in should you remove/loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap keeping an eye on the fluid level as you do so, allowing air to air to escape making pushing the pads back into the callipers ever so slightly easier also using a wad of cloths around just in case pushing the pistons back in raises the level so it overflows? Just noticed you don't wear gloves preferring the aux naturel approach when working on your bikes?
so as i live in thailand i should use H not double H no cold weather here.....lol
150F is fairly cold for brakes, just how hot does it get in Thailand? ;
Cheers for in the info fella, looking forward to seeing the new wheels :)
I know this is an old video but delboy's videos are some of the absolute best sources of information for the noob motorcycle rider who wants to look after their own stead themselves. I thought I would need to use my local motorcycle service centre but with the quality of intelligent information you provide, I think I can give this a go myself. Thank you delboy, you are truly a legend!
Thank you my friend, you're very kind... we don't deserve such generous praise, it's just basic stuff and we're happy to share it, we see it as no more than housekeeping, and we're really glad it can help you... ride safe!
I know its bad but ive never used a torque wrench, no bolts ever come loose and non snapped, a basic feel for the size of the nut/bolt has worked for me.
But if it was a large engine with critical limits i would buy one :) perhaps ha ha :)
If you've been at it long enough you do get a feel for them, but these days with more critical settings and specs on machinery, it might pay to treat yourself, if nothing else, that peace of mind is quite comforting!
I find that copper grease on the pins helps with the service life of my brakes. Especially in winter. Always clean the road crud off the pistons before pushing them back in to the calliper.you risk ruining the seals
Excellent as always, and you even addressed my question (do sintered pads wear the disks quicker) before I had a chance to ask! One word of caution, when you press those pots back into the caliper watch you haven't filled the reservoir in the meantime (with the pads low) or you are gonna get brake fluid gushing out - would you normally take the reservoir cap off to assist in pushing the pots back into the caliper?
If you know your bike, and do your own maintenece, then you will know if you've topped up your fluid...i have not, anf the fluid level was right at the bottom of the reservior, so i knew it would just push the fluid back up to the top level...and as it was replaced last year its fine to last for another 12 months.... and no, you dont need to remove the cap as they all have a vent hole to level the air pressure inside..
Yeh,sound vids DB,nice and confident and well explained,that's the main thing...Seems you have examples of anything that needs our attention .
Long may you continue,and great Cam quality from your Lady friend also [crucial!]
Thanks both not forgetting the mad machines...Maybe one day I'll get to ride a Triumph Scrambler.Ace
+eamonn colley Thanks Eamonn, glad you enjoy the videos, you're very kind... ride safe mate !
Hi del just be careful with the HH you don't lock up the back wheel. I have been a courier 15 years the HH can catch you out a courier in Dublin where most of the public over 55 years got their licence in a lucky bag love your stuff
Hello mate, Yankee Chris sent me a link to some Goldfren sintered pads for my B6. They're half the price of EBCs and a background search shows they are a well respected company, so worth a shot. The discs look okay, ideally I would change rotor and pads together but I'm not made of money. Another nice little video, cheers
So, my OEM Honda pads are like $37. There's few options for me, but should I go aftermarket? There's like 2 out of 9 that cost more than the OEM. Some are the same price and others a cheaper.
can't watch this, pushing dirty pistons back through the seal, no pin serviced! Just spend 3 pounds on brake cleaner and 2 minutes to clean the caliper and pistons. Also, I would prefer organic at the back, for better control, no need for "initial bite" or high performance, or either they rich high temps on slow riding or approaching a stop.
NEVER press the cylinders in before cleaning them perfectly. You can and will push dirt into the o ring that keeps oil inside the caliper and the brakes can start leaking oil. Always clean BEFORE pushing them in!!
Thanks mate, I'm changing my pads now and that was a top advice. Cheers Jim in OZ
Great explanation of the compounds Del, you are making good use of that lift. :)
FTI.... Use the old brake pad to push in the caliper piston... goes in evenly and won't damage the piston... Cheers !!!
Why didn't you clean those brake cups of the road grime before pushing them back in.?
?
Yeah that's what I used for my Bandit when I changed mine. Was told they are the best for Suzuki Bandits on the Forums :)
If the caliper is out he should wash it with water and soap, its not a good idea to install new brake pads on a dirty caliper, or spray it with brake cleaner. The quality is on the details....
Will it eat rotor disc faster than factory brake pads? assuming rider is aggressive rider
and do not forget to step on the brake (build up pressure) before you ride of..... right !?
Great info well explained cheers matey.....
Very informative! I have been using EBC HH pads on my track bike for the last two riding seasons and like them a lot; I'll probably use them on my SV650 street bike when I renew those pads this year.
Good plan, can't beat sintered pads!
these are great pads, almost. I have a buzzing sound or locust like sound that comes from this type of pads,hh sintered. I don't use grease or the stick that you use because I don't have a squeal issue. would you know what is causing this noise. bike is an '01 honda shadow 1100.
Hi buddy, the noise you hear is best described as a 'skishshsh' and quite normal, and correct for these pads, they're a metallic pad material (much softer than the disc itself) and metal to metal will always make a noise, don't fret it buddy, it's doing what it should !
Del, you should open your own MC garage/repaishop/school ffs ..even for guy like me who's english language is like 4 cylinder engine but just 2 of those is running att follow u is easy as hell ...I can't agree more on aemonn colley comment below... ewesome explanations and vids !!!! keep up the good work .cheers
+Vito GanjaKid Hi Vito... thanks mate, you are very kind! I would love to have a motorcycle school, but setting up a business is a nightmare and if people had to pay for it, I guess they could take their bike to the dealer to be fixed lol ! And also You Tube is great because it reaches people all around the world.. we have had many contacts tonight from South America, Columbia, Mexico, Brazil, etc., and we could not do that with a local bike shop... you keep watching, we'll keep making videos!
I'd also use a small amount of locktite on the caliper mounting bolts
Just had to drop a note, bought a bike in October, been quite awhile since I owned one, just wanted to say if it were not for your videos I would be absolutely lost, and broke!
So far ... I have lowered the rear, changed crank case oil, adjusted clutch, adjusted throttle cables,did a brake service, and installed some biltwell keystone bars!!
Could not have done any of this without your vids, can't tell u how much I appreciate all u do, also u are spot on with the F.R.O. vids as well! Cheers mate!
Look forward to many more..
Hi Tony, thank you most kindly Sir... that is really kind of you... and we're so glad to hear the videos are able to help you.. it's great to find an audience when you put the time in to it that we do... great long list of jobs there mate and hope you are going to treat Mrs Payne with the money you've saved lol! All the best, see you on the road, Del
Maybe I've just been lucky but I've never added grease and never had squeaky breaks, surely sintered pads are slightly porous could it not be possible for grease to seep through the pad? I know moto gp and superbikes don't use grease on there brakes..... Apart from that I've learnt a huge amount with your vids and always take a look when I'm working on my bike.
I think it's important to lose the connection with the word "Grease" in the case of this Copper based product it's a misnomer because that implies a lubricant, and this is an antiseize compound, designed to provide a non ferrous barrier between metals and inhibit corrosion, and in fact it is detrimental to use it as a lubricant between two surfaces that will slide across each other, it will then act as an aggregate and erode them. In the old fashioned and very common practice of using a small wipe of Copper Slip on the BACK of a brake pad it acts as no more than a damper to absorb high frequency vibration that leads to a squeal, only use it if your brakes squeal, because that all it's for, a vibration inhibitor, Brake these days tend not to squeal, but with older bikes it was very common, hence why so many younger and less experience riders get their pants in a bunch over it, because they simply dont understand it..and some people will naturally confront what they don't understand and no mate.. it will not "seep through" your brake pad, what ever the porosity of the lining material, they have a solid steel backing.!!!
Just an update from today Del:
I've succesfully removed all the remaining 7 studs!:)
Prep for painting start tomorrow!:)
Metallic black+fazer rim stickers+varnish!
Can't wait!
Keep up with the good videos Del!
Cheers
Attila
Wel done Attila, good job on the bolts, they are always stubborn and it's good to get them out cleanly... hope the rest goes well for you, take care, Del
I installed the Sintered HH pads on my Rocket 3 and didn't like them at all. Noisy, grabby and I could visibly see the scratching of the disc. They were some of the strongest braking I have ever had but didn't like the other issues. Replaced with OEM grade and all was better.
Colin Kessler These are all things I've said against sintered pads in the past, they will eat your discs and they do take some getting used to, but I guess for some people braking efficiency is their first concern, specially on a 12ton bike, like a Rocket3... the OEM pads are always more than adequate and as with all things in life, there's always an up-grade if you want it ... thanks for watching!
Just realised why I hadn't been getting your vids up Del, I was unsubscribed to your channel, no ide how that happened. I got a lot of catching up to do mate this was the last one I watched. Sham we didn't have much time to catch up yesterday, but hopefully we will hav more time at Beaulieu. Gave the bike a bit more RPM on the way home.
Gray Viper Hi Geoff, yeah we did wonder, we saw the sub pop in ! Am so sorry we never got a chance to have a good look round the Versys on Sunday, it was just manic, it's always irritating at these shows, with so many of us there, we never get a proper chance to chat to anyone for very long before something else grabs your attention... we never even got time to just stroll round the bikes and look at them all ! So yeah, Beaulieu will be perfect, we'll come up and meet you the night before for a shandy ! See you soon mate
Just changed my pads on the rear of my 2015 triumph, the new pads were EBC, now my concern is my old pads have a honeycomb chrome plate on the rear that hooks over the edge of the pad, now these don't fit on the new pads as the new pad backs are slightly larger, I have fitted the pads without these plates but do you think I should cut off the tabs and fit them anyway, are they just a anti shim plates ? Your advice would be appreciated 👍 cheers great vids 👍
They are anti-squeal plates, all you need to do is smear some copperslip on the back of the new pads, and they will be fine!
Another good video Del, and I now know what the ratings mean..I did think HH where for race type brakes...everyday is a school day!!
Thanks Will, it's a little bit of nerdy knowledge, but being OCD I like to understand things fully rather than just trusting reputation... a race pad is H rated, but has other qualities, such as greater heat disipation and shamphered leading edges, but are rubbihs in cold weather
Another great vid, thanks. I've just put Hel braided lines on the front, they are a bit better braking wise, but not a lot. Do you think sintered pads are the next upgrade? Do they last as long as a cheaper pad? One more thing, do aftermarket adjustable levers make any difference, or are they an aesthetic/comfort ting only?. Keep up the good work mate, fantastic vids
James Bond Hi James, the adjustable levers are purely a comfort thing, unless you have tiny hands, like Penny, then they are essential!
Upgrading to braided hoses once used to have an astonishing effect on improving the brakes, but these days the rubber hoses are far better quality and don't swell as much, so the improvement is less marked... Sintered pads are the next upgrade and they will make a big improvement, but be aware that they are quite aggressive on the discs and will eat them quicker... if you don't mind about that, then get them all round and you'll see a big difference... hope that helps mate !
Great video, I need new brakes, and someone recommended these to me, now I know why. Thanks for the education.
Another great video Dell.
I helped my oldest change the pads on his car the other day. It simply reinforced why it is I enjoy working on bikes so much. Scrabbling around on the concrete, under the bloody car, came out looking like a coal miner and just a trolley jack to use. Now he knows how to do it, so next time...............
haha, I know what you mean... it just ain't funny when you get to our age, grovelling round on your knees !
Can you do a service on a front brake system on a Harley Davidson Springer there is not one on TH-cam specific to the Springer front end completely different braking system thank you D B
I would love to, I'm a great fan of the Springer front end, I just don't have one available to me to make the video!
Yet another one of lifes' little mysteries solved! Getting more edumacated all the time :) Really tho, didn't know any of this beforehand. Cheers guys!
Thanks Blue, simple nerdy stuff, but nonetheless, interesting!
another great video del see you next sunday cant wait whats next for the garage
Hello mate, bloody love that cap, very fetching lol! Picked me new wheels up for the Scrambler today, so if I can find the time after work this week, I'll be bolting them in... can't wait... then if it warms up enough, it's time for some paint on Penny's bike! Se you Sunday mate, really looking forward to meeting you mate!
Moonfleet41 sounds like a busy week for you see you next week
Thanks Delboy for educating me in the type of brake pads to use on my 15 year old kwaka. My wife has just bought me this bike for my 60th birthday, after not having a bike for 20 years, watching you videos is giving me the confidence to maintain and keep it like a new bike. Thank you delboy best wishes to Penny pitstop.
Hi Tommy, that's fantastic news mate and welcome back to biking brother! Where have you been lol! ...it's really cool that the videos can help you and it sounds like you ought to join ou Idiot Collective forum and make some new bike mates to go with your new bike ... check us all out at: www.idiotcollective.com ... get yourself registered and introduce yourself, we have meets all the over the place at least once a month! Welcome aboard mate!
Come on! Gimmie a brake!! ... Get it? LOL! .... A little Delboy humor for you. ;-)
Ayup Jeff... the wheels for the Scrambler have arrived....s'gonna look brutal !
Very informative video mate, i just learnt alot there, i usually go for the cheapest, now i understand the grading behind it all, I'll shop more wisely, 😎
Ayp Bazza, you know what they say, 'cheap ain't good, and good ain't cheap' ! (but actually, these are still quite reasonable at £23 a pair)
Del firstly thanks for always replying, bought a set for the cbr, couple of questions would you copper slip inbetween the heat shim and pads? And also there is a plastic shim which I assume is to aid with no rattling?, and is the pan pin a no no?? Cheers
Hi mate, just a thin smear of copper slip between the pad and the shim is fine, but I mean a very small amount... and what do you mean by 'pan pin'... do you mean grease the pad pin?? If so, then NO, they must be bone dry and clean... hope that helps mate, good luck!
I almost always learn something new and useful from your vids. Although I have been using them for years, I really never understood what the term "sintered" actually meant. I have been running with EBC HH pads on my souped up Buell X1 Lightning for a while now and have found them to be top notch. Thanks again, and keep 'em coming
Thanks Richard for your kind words.. and beautiful bike you've got there as well... roll on summer eh!
I love it when I actually learn stuff. I'm glad I subscribed. Thanks, WEGGY ZZR, for pointing me in the right direction.
You're most welcome mate and welcome aboard... that Weggy is a proper top fellah!
what grease if any would you recommend when putting ur wheels back on the spindle?got the bike back from paint and going to be building her tomorrow hopefully
Hi Jayson, just some regular ordinary LM grease is fine for your axle... nothing special, and not too much either, just a light smear along it's length... hope that helps, good luck with the re-build!
Hi del can you do a video on the best bike for all round work horse I had vstrom 650 that did fore hundred thousand km on it k7 this bike is still going I sold it to a polish guy and he has had it to Poland its un believable. The tiger that you have is along the same lines
I can't really do a video like that cos I wouldn't know where to start, any modern bike these days will go round the world, the average Triumph Triple will do a quarter million with the right care and we know of a Harley Tour Glide 1340 Evo that did 400k in two laps round the world... and never got stripped below the base gaskets! It's all about how you look after them and how you ride them these days!
just put in some SBS ones few months ago the front and rear are both really good.
Nothing like a pad up-grade eh mate!
Great! only one problem where can I buy it here in south Texas is a little hard to find them.. Is there a web site you recommend?
Hi Again Carlos... just did a little searching, these guys sell EBC Sintered you may need to do a little more searching of maybe call them to ask if they can supply for your Heritage..!
www.jpcycles.com/product/244-646?DSA%2520-%2520general&cid=Google+SEARCH+NON-BRAND+none&adpos=1t4&creative=82456140610&device=c&matchtype=b&network=g&gclid=CO7Tk6aomtECFYwQ0wod1h0M1w
Cool vid,,, thanks for the info about the pad rating and explaining about them,,learnt a lot. Keep them coming
Cheers Ian, simple stuff and it's always better to know the facts...!
I am a bit concerned that sintered pads are being put on the rear of a street bike. The risk of locking rear and fishtailing especially for a new rider is my reason to worry. Will it not be best to use sintered in front and organic - regular in rear?
As a new rider, remember what your instructor told you, which should have been go gently on the rear brake... it's more a brake to steady the bike, than stop the bike, it's also excellent for slowing down with a pillion on, because it prevents forward rotation of the frame and diving, but don't criticise efficient brakes for being too efficient, simply apply the brakes accordingly, it's hardly right to deliberately opt for weaker brakes so they don't work too well, surely better to have efficient brakes of the finest quality and use them sensitively , and of course, practice your riding and hone your skills... you only truly begin learning 'after' you pass your test...
Really good video, you are a Natural infront of the camera...:) you shuld be on TV!!
Thank you most kindly Sir, that is much appreciated... it's good fun hobby and if it can help a few fellow bikers at the same time, then it's a win all round!
Great Videos and tips! Do you use the copper grease on both pads or only the one furthest from the pistons?
If you're going to use it at all, then a thin smear on the back of each pad, but if you want to, you can install them dry and see if they squeal first... if the brake doesn't squeal, just leave them dry , if it does pop a little on both - and obviously the BACKS only...
Great video Del. I've used EBC HH on every bike i've owned. Awesome stopping power and i've never 'eaten' the discs as some people claim.
Hi Steve..Good points mate, .the disc eating issue is a bit overstated.. they will wear more but if you temper your braking and use the extra power they have only when you really need it.. then you'll be fine..
Moonfleet41 Just fitted a new rear tyre on the Bird and guess what. Yep, need new rear pads lol EBC HH from Demon Tweeks for less than £22 delivered. Happy with that :)
geat vid as always del if i can could i request a quick review video of your roof boxer helmet 7 months on in terms of noise comfort so on
That's a good idea mate, it has been that long now, and it's a great helmet... I was also looking for something to review, so perhaps, I'll chuck that up this week if I get time!
as well as the hardware advise he also gives top intelligent, safe and economical advice on riding , look and think ahead avoiding hard, unnecessary and potentially dangerous braking
Excellent vid Del. I believe I now know what brakes I"m putting on the bike next time.
Cheers brother, go for it, you'll be amazed at the improvement!
Great video Del,when new pads are fitted,how much friction is thereon the disks and how long for bedding the pads in thanks.
+zzzpip Hi buddy....the friction on the disc is irrelavant, they are made to take it so dont worry, and the pads will work right from the box on a newish bike with healthy smooth discs....if its an older bike and the discs are heavily grooved, then it could be about 50 miles of town riding or so before you get full grip....but these Sintered pads will still work fine even when just fitted.... Hope that helps.. Del.
thanks for taking the time to reply cheers
Hi there! Really awesome chanel! Got a (stupid) question: What about "cheao chinese"pads? Saw on ebay 3 sets (2 front + 1 rear) for less than 40 USD. Worth a try or not even think about it? Thanks a lot!
*cheap chinese
I think you've already answered your own question buddy, like you say, in the US, 'it's your ass dude' ... I wouldn't go there unless I had absolutely no other choice!
Sorry about the unorganized questions! I was just shooting out what came to mind last second. I’ll be installing the pads in an hour or so and they are the HH EBC copper sintered front pads. I’m going to use your method moon. I’ll just clean the pins but not lube them. Oh one question lol I promise. Will the brake Kleen Work as well as the soap n water? I notice a lot of guys using contact cleaner but didn’t think it will make a big difference.
I couldn’t pass up getting my last use of front pads today in Nyc since it’s beautiful out. 52 degrees is like summer when ya ride all year round lol.
Hi again buddy, with the contact cleaner, I've never used that myself, if I'm gonna use a spray, I go with 'brake and carb cleaner' which is made for the job... it dries away really quickly and leaves no residue, good luck with it... it's great to hear from you all the way from NYC, it sounds great there, warm and sunny... I watch videos of guys riding round the city and it's a place I'd love to visit ! Keep in touch, always be good to hear from you !
Hi again buddy, with the contact cleaner, I've never used that myself, if I'm gonna use a spray, I go with 'brake and carb cleaner' which is made for the job... it dries away really quickly and leaves no residue, good luck with it... it's great to hear from you all the way from NYC, it sounds great there, warm and sunny... I watch videos of guys riding round the city and it's a place I'd love to visit ! Keep in touch, always be good to hear from you !
Really great stuff! I honestly trust your work and just wanna get it right the first time. I’m really gonna promote your videos on my crews page. NYC GOTHAM RIDERS. Feel free to join up I’ll accept you right away. Also I will put my questions in numbered order now that I know you take the time to answer. Great job! Much appreciated. T FZ RIDA
Hey Del!
Please enlighten us about the bedding in process after the change. I also need to change the rear set but have no clue how to introduce the new pad to the used disc. Thanks! :)
Top
If you're going with copper sintered mate, then, unbelievably, there's practically no bedding in period, they will work better than your old ones within half a dozen stabs, but normally, on regular pads, just take it easy and don't rely on them too much for the first few days, avoid gentle prolonged use which builds up heat, but instead, use short and slightly more 'aggressive' stabs of the pedal to scuff them in whilst not letting them get too hot! Hope that helps, Del
Moonfleet41 Great! Thanks alot for the fast answer, helped me alot. I def go for the HH ones! Cheers, Top
Good vid Del, great info buddy, most appreciated, RSM8.
Thanks Skeggs, that's very kind of you mate!
I like that "Butter On a Biscuit" thxs 4 the video
copper is softer thas the disk metal, souds good 4 me...
"Think AHead" another lesson again! LOL
(NRN)
I can never thumbs up your videos. SO....
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
To make up for all the videos I could not thumps up. Great work. Keep up the good videos.
Ha ha, Thanks Jose....i can still see them if you click the thumbs up icon...i just hid the count because the poison trolls like to amuse thier tiny brains by posting dislikes....bless them.!
I chose EBC double H sintered pads for an FZ6 Yamaha that was ready for new pads. There was a dramatic performance over the stock pads. Make sure you buy EBC or rebutable brands. I tried a knock off cheap ebay brand that was "HH Sintered" and they were awful....worse than stock. When I sold the bike the gentleman contacted me to tell me how impressed he was with the brakes.
Mate, what's your opinion of organic pads? Ordered some from Wemoto. Any experience?
I will be straight with you mate - never used them ! But I hear good things, I think any EBC pad is a quality product, and will do what it's meant to do, but because I've always been such a stickler for crisp, sharp brakes, I've always just gone for copper sintered every time, sorry I can't be more help mate - let us know how you get on with them, I would be interested to hear!
Moonfleet41 will do. Thanks for taking the time to reply. Your channel has kept me sane when I've been stuck on navy bases. Great work. 👍
Great timing.
Came across your video, and as a noob to biking your video really helped me out.
Fitted these on the front and rear of my Honda hornet this morning. Great pads, great advice.
Thanks very much.
also i would like to add .. the chopper is used the the pads to make them heat up fasters as to the soft metal why chopper.? well chopper carrys the heat better then any the eles apart from Gold..! just thougth i would add the to a very well explanation video..!
and yes EBC are the best..!!! :)
nice instructions. . I would have used a little brake fluid on a clean cloth to wipe the pistons, then some red rubber grease b4 pushing them in. but that's just me
@ moonfleet. I appreciate the reply and honestly wasn’t expecting one lol. I’m glad us riders stick together. That’s exactly what I bought was the mixed pack of scrub pads by scotch brite. I was just a little concerned about the copper anti seize getting onto the pads just like you mentioned. Some guys were telling me it’s good to use sandpaper and it just didn’t sit right with me. THANK YOU!!
Hi, liking the vid's.
I got a bonneville from 2001 and in need of new brake disc's , they are at the min thickness .
Thanks to your vid when know about the pads now , but with are your thoughts on disc's.
There are some different brands and prises that go with them , I know don't cut corners on brakes .
Looking forward to hear from you .
Kind regards
From Belgium
Wout
Hi Wout, I would imagine the Triumph genuine discs are the best and probably the same kind of price as after market ones, but I don't have experience of changing these discs, or buying different ones, so can't help much further than that... good luck with it!
Moonfleet41 Thanks for the input , I will put some aftermarkets on , UK made claim to be better than originals. It is easier to get than originals from the local dealer .
Moonfleet41
Just to let you know.
fitted the brake disc's , new sintered pads and a steel brake line for the front , with a world of difference it makes .
I did rebuild the brake calipers when I first got the bike , the reason being the back caliper was locked up due to standing stil to long .
Love messing around with it .
Ride safe
What's your view on using a slightly crappier compound in the rear, as the rear tends to break away more easily (on my big trailie anyway)
Hi Neil....it ,akes no difference, if you have 'lesser' pads, then you just tend to brake harder to get them to stop....try these out, they have so much feel and bite, that you barely need to touch them by comparison, then just brake more carefully...and then the day you need some real braking force in an emergency... just step on them a bit harder.. your choice mate, but i think you should dumb down your braking enthusiasm and not your equipment.....
Ha ha, thanks they will be my next choice. I put it down to size 12 feet and not a lack of finesse on my part... Obviously!
I just got gg organic ebc fronts for the bandit 12 as i thought hh would wear quicker and not be so good cold..well now youve explained it i needent have been so picky..great vid mate and very informative..i like your unbiased views on all these things.."heres whats available heres what it does you choose" sort of vibe..thats rare, most people are more " do this do that"...
Ayup Springy.....as long as the chosen pad is "double lettered" so 'GG' or 'HH' then thats rated good at hot or cold....and the difference between G and H is only going to be ferlt at the top of its range....also on the front, you have two discs and they're bigger... so they'll be fine... the Tigers are renouned for eating thier back pads...so the sharpest friction pads mean less pressure is required in the hope that they'll actually last longer...who know...but for now, they're bloody awesome.. ten times more feel than before..
Just found and subscribed to you page after looking how to change pads on my explorer, as im a complete nugget when it comes to bike maintenance. Hopefully you will have a vid about changing tbe real disc as mine is a bit scored, going hunting. ordered the ebc pads to install tomorrow, had a practice tonight based on your vid, very easy many thanks
Another excellent video from Delboys Garage. Some of it I knew, some not. Particularly enjoyed the explanation of E to HH pad ratings.
Merci Patron.................
Do you recommend always deglazing the discs when changing pads to sintered ebc from organic oem crap on front? Also what about greasing the pins slightly?
Great vids thanks. Most important step, pump pedal or lever to get pads back in contact with the disk. Can be very embarrassing if you forget.
Brilliant del, what's your opinion on using OEMs on the front and HH on the rear as the front is more efficient?
ahh I should of said I have a cbr600f, the rear is good but not great, front is fine, fluid is always renewed every two years, thought maybe EBCs or brembos only on the rear what do you think?
***** Well, sports bike front brakes are always more than adequate and it sounds like you take good care of them but conversely, sports bikes tend to have pretty feeble back brakes, so a little up-grade with some double H pads, would be a great move...!
Thanks, now sintered and HH makes sense!
Ain't hard is it lol!
I tend to get carried away with butter on my biscuit though.
Knew someone would say that, one block of butter on one biscuit lol!
Just a note while you have the "pad pins" out, make sure they are round and not worn with a shiny groove on one side or the pads will tip in following that groove when braking and wear on an angle.
I had ebc hh in the fronts on the bandit and replaced them with ferodo sintered hh i would say they are rubbish cant wait for them to wear out so i can put the ebc pads on again they get my vote running them on the rear too
Hi Aaron, how much is it worth to put up with rubbish brake pads that you're not happy with... for what it's worth mate, and for what it will cost you, just chuck 'em out and replace them... the guys I got these from charge £64 for 3 pairs... and with the way that would transform your bike, surely it's worth it???!
Yeah i know your right i there not dangerous but there not as good as they could be i probably will give in and get some but spending 40 quid on front brake pads when there still new goes against the grain a little haha
Del do these pads leave much dust particles on the wheels, The pads I have in my Fireblade at the mo are horrendous
No, not as much mate... and they will grip a lot better than standard pads, so you don' squeeze them as hard, which further helps keep the dust and the wear to a minimum... !
Arh brilliant, Thanks for the info Del, I will defo be getting a set.