@@shocktreatment5495 Both if that’s possible. The Cone valve suspension is so much more expensive that it would be very interesting to see why and how that is, beyond just the usual marketing hype.
Compression leg is a modern version of a damper rod fork. I plugged the the top cartridge holes and have a mid valve with a check valve instead of a rebound stack so I still have working reb/comp adjusters.
There are many options you can use to achieve improvement with this fork with varying results. You can still use rebound shims in the compression leg and have comp adjustment. Just ensure the force being generated by both stacks remains biased toward compression and the adjuster will favour this area. The compression stroke will operate at far greater velocities than rebound ensuring that this remains so.
Hello! Great explanation for how this fork works. Would you please tell me if I get this correct - the simplest and cheapest solution to at least substantially reduce the tendency for the compression fork leg to de-stabillize the oil and considerably increase the "consistency of the performance" would be to either swap out the vented upper cartridge part, plug it somehow or replace it with the outer cartridge from the rebound leg + somehow (with some kind of a spacer) create a situation when by turning the compression clicker fully in you cannot fully seat the "conical valve" that is on the end of the cartridge rod, kind of "mimicing" a bleed or a float on a mid-valve when the compression adjuster is turned completely in. I think this solution would take care of both of the problems you mentioned with the compression leg - at least to a considerable degree. It wouldn't allow any oil to migrate from the "rebond" side of the cartridge in neither stroke through the vent holes and even if the compression adjuster would be turned completely in it wouldn't allow the whole volume of oil displaced by the "valve assembly" on the end of the cartridge rod to get pushed through the basevalve, causing the need to refill the chamber totally under vacuum. Sure, finding the right size of this bleed could be imparative to prevent as much cavitation as possible on either stroke which might happen due to "rebound" chamber not filling up properly if the compreesion adjuster is turned fully in and the "bleed" is not large enough", but anyways this should considerably improve the "consistancy" of the performance with really low cost, wouldn't it (I know for a fact that at least here in Europe I can order the upper, non-vented cartridge part from K-Tech for something like 100 AUD)? Would you say that it would still be better just to tune fully tune up the rebound leg with all the base valve shims, mid-valve/rebound shims for a "complete" "cheap" solution and just ignore the compression leg? In such a case, would you recommend reducing the base valve shim stack in the compression leg down to bare minimum and opening the clicker essentially up just to reduce damping as much as possible and thus produce the most "consistant" feel (as if there would be any damping in the compression leg the risk of cavitation would "upset" a bigger portion of the whole "system" damping and thus afect the consistancy of the feel)? Hope you can answer this as I'm just only starting to learn suspension (structural engineering background) and I'm quite interested whether I'm starting to grasp the concepts. Thanks!
Terry. Very informative video. Ive recently installed the race tech kit in my Xplor fork here in Canada. Do you offer remote turing services for DIY installations? Im looking for valving and spring rate specs. I have tried the RT valving database with average results. Thanks Nick
I have 2020 husqvarna te300i. The forks sticker says Wp xplor oc open cartridge. The manual says 5548 fork type. Is this fork considered to be a Wp xplor 48 type fork? Your expertise would be greatly appreciated. Also your video's are excellent. Thanks Steve Johnson
Installed the Scheaffer valve kit in my 2020 150 forks and am totally amazed. They are plush at low speed and accurate and confidence inspiring at high speed. Thanks to the Shock Treatment team my 150 is even easier to ride. Cant believe how bad the original forks are on such a late model bike. Ready to Race ? lol
@@LCARSADV Theres one manufacturer but a number of suspension tuners order the same kit under different names. Just go to a tuner near you and describe the kit. They should be able to help.
I’ve talked to two local tuners (Arizona) and both recommended your cheap option, and they seemed think they could get excellent results that way. I can do the Gold Valve kit myself for cheaper they they quote, I’ve found good resources on how to, guess it ultimately comes down to good RTs shim recommendations work. Really not sure what to do.
The shimstack that they supply will put you in the ballpark at a minimum. Potentially within a couple of clicks. If you find you wish to adjust the stack later on, you already have a baseline to adjust from.
So I installed the RT kit and test rode it yesterday. It really made a noticeable improvement. Can you remove the base valve on these forks without taking the top cap off the fork? For making base valve adjustments without draining oil.
@@aaronbashnick7581 You can simply turn the fork upside down and remove the base valve. You won't lose any more than a few drops. Just make sure you clean the base perfectly before removing the base bolt.
Hi Terry, great Video, whats the part number or name of the Race Tech solution. I couldnt find it on your website and would like to purchase. Thanks heaps
Am I correct in thinking this upgrade to the Xplor fork essentially makes them the same as the old open cartridge forks as fitted to my 2009 EXC 200? Does the upgraded Xplor fork work better than the old open cartridge stuff?
The hardware is superior to the old fork but does follow the same design principles. Ultimately the performance will come down to how the valves are set up relative to your requirements
Hi buddy what’s happen if you change the spring in wp forks that only have spring in one leg? The ktm 1290 Super adventure R 2021+ have preload adjustment in both legs but only one visible spring in one leg, I it is 6.5nm I’m looking to put 7.0nm, but I don’t know if that will cause problem as the other leg don’t have spring. Thanks
Have you guys had anything to do with n10z compression valve for these forks or had a look at it, do u think it could be a good thing? Thanks for the informative content 👍 👌
Excellent. Can you do xplor shock as well? Have they sorted the needle taper since the early days of pds? or do you still need to buy telescopic needle?
Sure we can have a look at it, the problem with the needle was never the taper but the length. The new Xplor shock does not use the needle it uses a secondary piston and a cup at the top of the shock which creates additional resistance. Once again the cup is too short and only functions in the final stages of travel.
I have cone valve forks you s set up for me through Brendan I live in Thailand just wondering if your one the top off the inner fork tube goes black where its machined like about the top half offf it
It looks like turning the compression adjuster IN would unseat the compression valve and make the setting softer (opposite to regular adjustments). Am I confused?
There were left hand threads to counter this and early upgrade kits became a little confusing as the comp was indeed backwards "after modification". Kits like the Scheaffer kit provide new rebound assemblies which create conventional adjustments.
Do I understand correctly - on XPLOR forks top caps which hold the "screw" mechanism for clickers are of different "threads" for rebound and compression side? That is, if the rebound side has a right hand thread the compression side has a left hand thread or vice-versa? Meaning, if I replace the compression "valve" assembly with a conventional rebound piston and shim stacks my compression adjuster turned in would open up the damping rather than close it? Or am I missunderstanding something here?
Hi Terry and the Shock Treatment Suspension team, can you please tell me where I can find more information about the Shafer kit? I’m lead to believe that is the only kit you will make a custom shim stack to suit the purchaser/rider for? Cheers, Lucas
Hi Lucas. The Scheaffer kit is on our shop site. It is the same kit as the KTech item. We source them from the same manufacturer but place our valving on it that not only works better but we adjust it to suit each riders requirements
@@shocktreatment5495 Thank you very much for your explanation and replying:) Is the Scheaffer kilt your preferred kit if you are custom valving it to the rider or can you do that with the Dal Soggio also? Thanks!
Has there been significant improvement in the 22/23 fork over the 17-19 fork ? The 19 fork in my 450excf was absolute garbage. Revalve helped but still crap.
This is why i dont buy KTM.... always need fixing. But the have the best shock highspeed adjuster....its working. KYB does nothing its just a lowspeed adjuster
We shouldn’t even be having this conversation if White Power designed a half decent fork for 2020-2023 bikes. I’ve just bought a 2023 Husky TE 300 and can’t believe how utterly bad these Xplor forks are. White Power you have totally ruined your reputation with these forks. The standard forks on my 1983 Yamaha IT 250 are way better than these. Very disappointed.
![ประสบการณ์ จ้าง Developer ที่ผมจะไม่มีวันลืม [ภาค2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pZbsSDRrmXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Great to see three solid alternate products that do similar things when going back to rebound / comp in both legs. Must be light years ahead of stock.
Thanks for a great vid Terry. Would be nice to see the comparison explanation of the cone valve vs the upgraded XPlor forks.
Were you looking to compare in terms of ride quality or function?
@@shocktreatment5495 Both if that’s possible. The Cone valve suspension is so much more expensive that it would be very interesting to see why and how that is, beyond just the usual marketing hype.
Compression leg is a modern version of a damper rod fork. I plugged the the top cartridge holes and have a mid valve with a check valve instead of a rebound stack so I still have working reb/comp adjusters.
There are many options you can use to achieve improvement with this fork with varying results. You can still use rebound shims in the compression leg and have comp adjustment. Just ensure the force being generated by both stacks remains biased toward compression and the adjuster will favour this area. The compression stroke will operate at far greater velocities than rebound ensuring that this remains so.
Hello!
Great explanation for how this fork works.
Would you please tell me if I get this correct - the simplest and cheapest solution to at least substantially reduce the tendency for the compression fork leg to de-stabillize the oil and considerably increase the "consistency of the performance" would be to either swap out the vented upper cartridge part, plug it somehow or replace it with the outer cartridge from the rebound leg + somehow (with some kind of a spacer) create a situation when by turning the compression clicker fully in you cannot fully seat the "conical valve" that is on the end of the cartridge rod, kind of "mimicing" a bleed or a float on a mid-valve when the compression adjuster is turned completely in.
I think this solution would take care of both of the problems you mentioned with the compression leg - at least to a considerable degree. It wouldn't allow any oil to migrate from the "rebond" side of the cartridge in neither stroke through the vent holes and even if the compression adjuster would be turned completely in it wouldn't allow the whole volume of oil displaced by the "valve assembly" on the end of the cartridge rod to get pushed through the basevalve, causing the need to refill the chamber totally under vacuum. Sure, finding the right size of this bleed could be imparative to prevent as much cavitation as possible on either stroke which might happen due to "rebound" chamber not filling up properly if the compreesion adjuster is turned fully in and the "bleed" is not large enough", but anyways this should considerably improve the "consistancy" of the performance with really low cost, wouldn't it (I know for a fact that at least here in Europe I can order the upper, non-vented cartridge part from K-Tech for something like 100 AUD)?
Would you say that it would still be better just to tune fully tune up the rebound leg with all the base valve shims, mid-valve/rebound shims for a "complete" "cheap" solution and just ignore the compression leg? In such a case, would you recommend reducing the base valve shim stack in the compression leg down to bare minimum and opening the clicker essentially up just to reduce damping as much as possible and thus produce the most "consistant" feel (as if there would be any damping in the compression leg the risk of cavitation would "upset" a bigger portion of the whole "system" damping and thus afect the consistancy of the feel)?
Hope you can answer this as I'm just only starting to learn suspension (structural engineering background) and I'm quite interested whether I'm starting to grasp the concepts.
Thanks!
Can you do a video explaining your WP telescopic dampening rod in the rear shock..
Great explanation and detail, thank you.
Terry. Very informative video. Ive recently installed the race tech kit in my Xplor fork here in Canada. Do you offer remote turing services for DIY installations? Im looking for valving and spring rate specs. I have tried the RT valving database with average results.
Thanks
Nick
I have 2020 husqvarna te300i.
The forks sticker says Wp xplor oc open cartridge. The manual says 5548 fork type.
Is this fork considered to be a Wp xplor 48 type fork? Your expertise would be greatly appreciated. Also your video's are excellent.
Thanks Steve Johnson
Installed the Scheaffer valve kit in my 2020 150 forks and am totally amazed.
They are plush at low speed and accurate and confidence inspiring at high speed.
Thanks to the Shock Treatment team my 150 is even easier to ride.
Cant believe how bad the original forks are on such a late model bike. Ready to Race ? lol
where do you order that? I can't find anything online.
@@LCARSADV Depends where you are.
US ?
yes
@@RIPPERTON
@@LCARSADV Theres one manufacturer but a number of suspension tuners order the same kit under different names.
Just go to a tuner near you and describe the kit. They should be able to help.
i've been googleing that race tech kit you recommend. I cant find it. What is it called. All i find is gold valve kits and thats not what you show.
Thanks for the nice explanation. Race tech or wp cc insert pro 6500? What would you recommend?
I’ve talked to two local tuners (Arizona) and both recommended your cheap option, and they seemed think they could get excellent results that way. I can do the Gold Valve kit myself for cheaper they they quote, I’ve found good resources on how to, guess it ultimately comes down to good RTs shim recommendations work. Really not sure what to do.
The shimstack that they supply will put you in the ballpark at a minimum. Potentially within a couple of clicks. If you find you wish to adjust the stack later on, you already have a baseline to adjust from.
So I installed the RT kit and test rode it yesterday. It really made a noticeable improvement.
Can you remove the base valve on these forks without taking the top cap off the fork? For making base valve adjustments without draining oil.
@@aaronbashnick7581 You can simply turn the fork upside down and remove the base valve. You won't lose any more than a few drops. Just make sure you clean the base perfectly before removing the base bolt.
I’ve looked all over your website I can’t find the Scheaffer kit.
Hi Terry, great Video, whats the part number or name of the Race Tech solution. I couldnt find it on your website and would like to purchase. Thanks heaps
If you haven't already found it, FMGV 27523XC is the Race Tech number.
Am I correct in thinking this upgrade to the Xplor fork essentially makes them the same as the old open cartridge forks as fitted to my 2009 EXC 200?
Does the upgraded Xplor fork work better than the old open cartridge stuff?
The hardware is superior to the old fork but does follow the same design principles. Ultimately the performance will come down to how the valves are set up relative to your requirements
Hi buddy what’s happen if you change the spring in wp forks that only have spring in one leg?
The ktm 1290 Super adventure R 2021+ have preload adjustment in both legs but only one visible spring in one leg, I it is 6.5nm I’m looking to put 7.0nm, but I don’t know if that will cause problem as the other leg don’t have spring. Thanks
Have you guys had anything to do with n10z compression valve for these forks or had a look at it, do u think it could be a good thing? Thanks for the informative content 👍 👌
Excellent. Can you do xplor shock as well? Have they sorted the needle taper since the early days of pds? or do you still need to buy telescopic needle?
Sure we can have a look at it, the problem with the needle was never the taper but the length. The new Xplor shock does not use the needle it uses a secondary piston and a cup at the top of the shock which creates additional resistance. Once again the cup is too short and only functions in the final stages of travel.
@@shocktreatment5495 wow i didnt even know that. I'd love to see one pulled apart and discussed by someone who knows whats up
Thats a solid option 👍🏻
I have cone valve forks you s set up for me through Brendan I live in Thailand just wondering if your one the top off the inner fork tube goes black where its machined like about the top half offf it
The machined section does allow for discolouration but it does not affect performance.
It looks like turning the compression adjuster IN would unseat the compression valve and make the setting softer (opposite to regular adjustments). Am I confused?
There were left hand threads to counter this and early upgrade kits became a little confusing as the comp was indeed backwards "after modification". Kits like the Scheaffer kit provide new rebound assemblies which create conventional adjustments.
Do I understand correctly - on XPLOR forks top caps which hold the "screw" mechanism for clickers are of different "threads" for rebound and compression side? That is, if the rebound side has a right hand thread the compression side has a left hand thread or vice-versa? Meaning, if I replace the compression "valve" assembly with a conventional rebound piston and shim stacks my compression adjuster turned in would open up the damping rather than close it? Or am I missunderstanding something here?
Hi Terry and the Shock Treatment Suspension team, can you please tell me where I can find more information about the Shafer kit? I’m lead to believe that is the only kit you will make a custom shim stack to suit the purchaser/rider for?
Cheers,
Lucas
Hi Lucas. The Scheaffer kit is on our shop site. It is the same kit as the KTech item. We source them from the same manufacturer but place our valving on it that not only works better but we adjust it to suit each riders requirements
@@shocktreatment5495 Thank you very much for your explanation and replying:) Is the Scheaffer kilt your preferred kit if you are custom valving it to the rider or can you do that with the Dal Soggio also?
Thanks!
What model and year(s) and WP Forks are you referring to?
The Xplor was introduced in 2017 and continued on the KTMs until 2023. The 24 GAs Gas still has them
@@shocktreatment5495 appreciate the response!
Has there been significant improvement in the 22/23 fork over the 17-19 fork ?
The 19 fork in my 450excf was absolute garbage.
Revalve helped but still crap.
Wheres the three stooges?
This is why i dont buy KTM.... always need fixing. But the have the best shock highspeed adjuster....its working.
KYB does nothing its just a lowspeed adjuster
We shouldn’t even be having this conversation if White Power designed a half decent fork for 2020-2023 bikes. I’ve just bought a 2023 Husky TE 300 and can’t believe how utterly bad these Xplor forks are. White Power you have totally ruined your reputation with these forks. The standard forks on my 1983 Yamaha IT 250 are way better than these. Very disappointed.