Very well explained and analogie. A lot of people don't understand what's going on with the solar controller and then the converter. Which confuses people. Great job. You don't need to change out your converter with a lithium upgrade, but it's best if you want to recover faster to 100 %
I waited to watch this video, I thought it’s not really for me. So I finally got some extra time and I just watched this video I am super impressed it completely explained the difference between inverters and converts! Very helpful video thank you!
I replaced my old converter with the 100 Amp power max. It's great really. It will charge a big bank of batteries and run everything much better than the one that came factory on our holiday rambler. We have 1800 watts of solar and a leaf power wall for our 120 but I kept all the 12 volt stuff too. I like victron it's nice but expensive.
I have not purchased an RV yet, but I have been watching numerous TH-cam videos regarding the topic including upgrades and just plain travel videos. Your videos offer excellent tips and advice. I think that I would lean towards going with a total lithium install or retrofit. Great information as always.
Great idea. We did almost 2 years of research before buying our RV. We finally have our truck and RV and will be hitting the road full time next year. We can't wait.
We just bought a smart battery charger at Walmart. We don’t have the money to buy an expensive converter. The old converter was making weird noises so I disconnected the fan and the primary on the transformer and we got a 15 amp charger and it does a good job. With one solar panel and a 700 watt generator we only pay out $30-$40 a month for gas and oil for the generator that has a 2stroke engine. We plan to get more solar panels
BOY do I wish I had seen this a few months ago! Put an older charger (10 amp) on my brand new wet lead plate battery, and forgot about it, until I saw the battery smoking. Killed that battery, wasted money, put our “home away from home” in a precarious position. AND I had to get a new battery. Lesson learned.
Thanks again for explaining a technical issue in lay mans terms. I have enjoyed viewing your videos. Just discovered your channel as part of following along KYD!
Thanks for doing this video. I am upgrading my RV electrical from the original '91 model...yeah 32 years old and I want to add some upgrades to it (electrical slides, addl plugs, etc.) This gives me the need for one and its so confusing otherwise. Appreciate the clarity!
The converter charger that cam with my 5th wheel died due to a power surge, and I replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power 9200. The batteries I bought after installing that are holding up much better and require less maintenance than the last ones.
Fantastic video! Was thinking about upgrading my batteries and thought it might be a good idea to upgrade the converter to help get the most out of new expensive batteries and this was very helpful. Thanks! Subscribed
Great Video, why not leave the acid battery controller where it is, power off circuit breaker to controller. Install new controller in the front bay on the 5th wheel trailer near the batteries. Run your POS & NEG cables from new controller directly to your lithium batteries? If you ever decide to go back to acid batteries discount new controller and turn old old controller at circuit breaker.?
I can swear in my new RV the fans on the converter have never gone on. I had it replaced under warranty by the dealer because we kept getting a high pitch squeal from the converter when two many DC items were running. The new one does not squeal now, but I check it over an over and I have never seen those fans spinning. Perhaps I should swap it with a different one. Also I would love to get your help with installing solar on my rig if that is something you would be interested in. We can talk in more detail if so. Safe travels and another great video.
I can attest to GoPower being pretty good quality. They are the higher priced inverters on the market but worth the investment. Their customer support is decent too. Great informative video as usual Jared!
I bought the 24v 2000 watt pure sine inverter. That thing has taken a beating for over a year and it’s still running smoothly. I’m gonna be upgrading to the gp 3000 watt inverter/charger soon though
Just replaced my single 12v batteries with dual 6v. Saw comments about how the factory convertor tends to kill batteries. Googled and boom of course you have a video. Should have checked your channel first haha
The biggest problem with the progressive dynamic lithium converter is that it maintains 14.6 volts in lithium mode after charging. This is really not good for lithium batteries. They should be maintained at closer to 13.6 volts and having them sitting that high all the time both significantly shorten their lifespans.
A word of warning about the PowerMax converter-chargers. Put a meter on one and you'll see that they never put out anywhere near their rated output. For example, the 55A unit won't charge at more than 19-20A, no matter what you do. It WILL fully charge your battery if you wait long enough, but only on utility power. If you're trying to charge from a generator, running all night isn't feasible. Second complaint: PowerMax doesn't like to provide firm performance data, troubleshooting info or any technical assistance at all. I and several friends were burned by this brand, and eventually bit the bullet and bought converter-chargers from Iota Engineering. American made, and a solid, reputable company that actually returns phone calls.
So you are saying, my 55amp, does not put out the stayted amps, I am upgrading from a 45 amp, burnt out to 55 amp wyco 3 stage. So should I upgrade breaker from the panel and wires to the battery?
ok..... I just got off the phone with IOTA, (they got bought out, so no longer US assembled...BUT all inventory goes thru them for parts and quality control, plus they employ AZ people so awesome!) Had a great conversation with a tech, helped me with sizing, module type...etc. Need to replace stock WFCO converter and Deep cycle setup on my 5th wheel toy hauler. thanks for the tip, cause NOT many are legit!
This is almost certainly due to the wiring between your battery and the converter. Most camper manufacturers woefully undersize this wiring and it causes a significant voltage drop between the converter and the battery which makes the converter think that the battery is almost fully charged the entire time causing it to not put out the current it's supposed to.
@@DoRC I'm going through this right now. I installed 2 100ah Battleborn battereries and with my original li-AGM-LA charger it took several hours to charge the batteries when set to lithium. So I bought a lithium only 70A converter charger from Progressive Dynamics and still several hours to charge. I'm Getting 14.6V at the charger and 13.4V at the batteries. The amperage will vary between 12A and 30A on my shunt battery monitor. I have 6 gauge wire and the batteries are about 12' away from the charger. Do you think I need to run heavier gauge wire?
My reply from renogy “Not at all. The controller will see any outside source charge on the battery and limit any input from the panels to keep the batteries from overcharging. The controller also has a blocking diode to prevent any back feed from that outside source charge through the controller and to the panels. “
thank you for sharing I am a single old woman. My husband was like You but he decided after 37 yrs of marriage this younger woman he met was what he wanted to be doing. So You're wonderful for sharing I luckily got to have two sons, they are married so I can't get as much help as I need but I pick and choose my battles I really need help with. I found TH-cam and its saving my kids from a lot of their time, and me from hearing OH MOM, just hire someone or Oh Mom I wished I had time whatever so many Oh moms. But they are wonderfuful and have all been my Heros since My divorce.
For one, I’m so sorry to hear about this as it just breaks my heart. Second, I’m so thankful that our videos are a help to you and hope that they continue to be helpful to you!
I used a 4 stage boondocker model 60 amp in my last rv and it worked great. Had dual 6v batteries and kept them in tip top shape and after several years still going. In my new trailer I will do the same. Maybe this time a 100amp boondock with dual 6v.
Good video as usual which is why I’m a subscriber lol. I have a question for you. I’m wanting to upgrade the electrical system in my RV and I’m getting lost in all the choices and options as well as all the technical jargon. I’m probably over complicating it so I thought I’d ask for some advice. Can you tell me where I should begin lol. Also, other than your fantastic channel where should I go to get the info I need to keep this a DIY project? Even basics like which battery should I get, do I need a converter or inverter and which should I consider and so on and so forth. I hope that makes sense lol Thank you for any advice/help Cheers mate and happy trails
I like RV with Tito he has a lot of really good information about solar. When it comes to batteries it depends on your budget. Lithium is the best with a large upfront cost, if I couldn’t afford lithium but could get an AGM then that would be my next choice. My last choice if cost was the concern I would do sets of 6 volt golf cart batteries. The place to start is figure out how much power you want in your battery bank how much you plan to use at any given point of time will tell you how big of an inverter you want and then pick how many watts of solar you want to replace what you use out of your batteries or how big of a generator. This might be easier if I just plan to do a video on designing your Rv electrical system.
Yes! Please do a video on designing an RV electrical system. It would be really helpful. I have done a ton of research and am about to go full time (with a wife and two kids), but still feel like I have no clue as to the best system for me and am stumbling in the dark with all the choices. I know I want lithium. I think I am going to start with 400Ah, but I am pretty lost from that point forward. I'd gladly pay for a couple hours of coaching, too, if that is an option.
Great videos! A had purchased and Power Max PM3-100K 100 AMP converter and then wondered how I was supposed to hook it up with my existing Magnatek model 6332 32AMP distribution panel and I t looks like you have a similar Distribution panel to mine. I was wondering how I was supposed to hook it up with the plug that it comes with. I never have taken off the lower part of the distribution panel to see what's in there. I think the reason for my confusion is that the power comes in and as far as I can tell, the 30AMP cord goes right into the panel. So my question is: Where do you put the plug you installed? Is it before the panel or somewhere after the panel? I really appreciate any help you may be able to provide for me. Thank You
Thanks for the details on your posts. You rock! I own a 2020 Forest River Class C. with 2 lead acid batteries. I have a very basic question - How do the house (same thing as coach?) batteries get recharged?
Great video's both in content & production. One thing I keep missing regarding inverters/chargers (or converters?). How are the DC circuits such as awning, slide motors, lights, etc. powered? All I see on the Victron MultiPlus as well as others is DC in, AC in, & AC out. I see where there is an on-board switch to be able to switch from shore or generator to battery power. But can't tell how the on board DC circuits are powered.
Jared, thanks for all the great information. I have a related question; my 15 amp breaker for the converter cuts out when I’m charging the batteries off my generator. My Epoch 300 Ah battery wants to pull in 50-78 amps and it seems like too much for my converter? I bought a 15 amp charger with my Epoch battery and used it to charge my Epoch fully for its initial charge. Can I use my solar generator (off-line from my RV) to power that 15 amp charger to charge my battery while it is hooked up to the RV and being used by the RV? Kind of a convoluted question but don’t want to hurt my lifepo4 battery. Thanks!
Converter chargers can operate quite differently depending on which brand/model you choose. List out what you specifically need and start researching everything available today. Most converter chargers do not care if shore power is from a generator or the power company yet some do. Switching from one to the other is usually done manually. You might speak to Progressive Dynamics as they are customer oriented and always happy to help you find the right unit for your rig.
Really enjoy your videos, and I learned a lot from the install you did for KYD. I need to replace my battery in my 5th wheel, and I'm thinking about switching to an AGM battery. Will the Powermax PM3-55 work with AGM batteries? Thx Kent
Great video! Keep them coming. I am trying to find a by-pass switch on line to by pass my Magnum m3012 inverter from shore power to my sub panel. If I ever need to work on or repair my inverter. I can't seem to find a "by pass" switch on line. Is it called something else? Would a 60amp manual transfer switch work? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Did KYD have one?
Great Vid!! For those of us that may have a single stage, is there something we can put at the battery to turn off the charging power to maybe help it float? I'm aware of the battery minder chargers but that requires 120V.
Hello Jared, thank you so much for your detailed videos. My question pertains to leaving my RV plugged in at home while not in use. Primarily, I am worried about leaving the RV plugged in for long periods of time while not in use and damaging the house batteries; mainly by overcharging. I would like to keep the fridge running and allow the A/C to keep the RV cool. I reside in Miami and I don't have to tell the kind of weather we have here. I will be purchasing a 2021 Coachmen Mirada 35OS. It is 50amp RV and I will be installing a 50amp plug at my home. I am not sure if the RV has a single stage or multi-stage converter. In summary, I would like to confirm that if I install a quality multi-stage converter (like one of the ones you recommend) in the RV, will it safely allow me to leave the RV plugged in to the 50amp plug at my home for long periods of time without damaging my house batteries? Thank you so much for your assistance.
Thanks for the explanations in the video. But I have a doubt: how to calculate the power of the battery charger when the campervan is connected to an external source, in a camping. what the specifications of this charger are. thanks
Jared, I have a 15 year old converter charging 4 -12volt deep cycle acid batteries. I noticed after plugging into a park site for 3 hours one battery was really warm so I checked with my multimeter. Incoming charge voltage was still 14.5 volts. I unplugged the converter and all the batteries read 12.5 volts (fully charged). Could my Converter be bad because it's not lowering the charging voltage?
How does it work if there are numerous chargers in the system? 1. Trailer factory single stage converter charger, 2. Solar charger, 3. and I was thinking of connecting a smart charger like NOCO genius G7200. Will they fight each other? Will the smart charger try to maintenance charge when full while the trailer's converter keeps pumping? I'm confused how this all works and how the batteries are actually charged with multiple chargers on the system. Thanks for any help!
Thank you so much for this episode! So this is the new one you put in? PowerMax PM3-55. I have a lead acid battery. Would this one be suitable for my battery type?
My old trailer had a 35 amp converter charger and I never saw over 9 amps on my meter. I think it was due to the long run of small gauge wire to the batteries. I am not sure installing a larger unit would guarantee you ever see the advertised output.
I'm in that same situation where the front two lead acid batteries are a long run, 2/3 of the 29' trailer, to the converter charger and yes, with small gauge wire. So I just ran my own heavy 4 gauge welder's wire from the second terminal of the charger/converter straight to the battery bank. I agree this makes more of a difference vs throwing more amps through a thinner wire. Thus I my opinion I don't need to change out my 55 amp WFCO three stage charger/converter. Now if I had lithium batteries, that's a different story...maybe one day, then I would need massive amps charge capabilities.
Late to the party but I’m adding dual lithium batteries so naturally I’m looking at compatible converter charger . Question is when choosing amperage the original is 55A . Is 100 amp better or will it be too much and cause problems some reviews of converter getting too hot or burning up. Am I safer going with a quality 65A unit ? Thanks.
If is possible too, can you help me? I am in the design phase to transform a Sprinter 211 cdi, new (2021), L1H1, all a little tight !!!!, but perfect for use here in Europe and exploring small towns, easy to park ... etc But now I got to the point of doing the electrical project, which I'm not used to doing, I'm a civil engineer, I understand 110 / 220v AC circuits. I wish you could help me with that part. I'm Brazilian, but I also live a lot here in Portugal, where I'm going to do the conversion. Well, I started making a spreadsheet, with the equipment, the necessary power and time of daily use, I have no intention of filling the motorhome with things, not least because it is a Sprinter L1H1, and I would like to have a simple electrical installation, but I would not like have gas inside, so I would prefer a stove with only one induction zone. To heat the water it would be a D6 truma, which is diesel. But from the calculations I made and compared with others I saw on the net, it seems that it ends up consuming a lot of energy, making the electrical part more expensive. I don't want to spend so much just because of induction. I don't know what other electrical equipment I would still need for everything to work, still using the car's alternator and an external 220v point when stopped at a camping site. In your opinion, which a good configuration sufficient to have a quick meal, with induction and stay out of the network for a day or two?which a good configuration sufficient to have a quick meal, with induction and stay out of the network for a day or two? Well, the result of the spreadsheet was: 220V equipment notebook - 65w - 1 hour of use - 5.4 Ah induction cooker - 1800w - 0,4 hour of use - 60 Ah 12V equipment USB - 50w - 1 hour of use - 4.2 Ah refrigerator - 45w - 8 hours of use - 30 Ah lights - 15w - 3 hours of use - 1.3 Ah water pump - 42 w - 0.5 hours of use - 1.8 Ah exhaust fan wc - 40 w - 1 hour of use - 3.3 Ah I will be very grateful if you can help me by presenting an wiring electrical diagram with the necessary equipment. I appreciate if you answer. my address is: joaolp55 @ gmail com Thanks
VERY informative, however, even with the mountain of internet "info", I am unable to determine whether an upgrade from our AGM is as simple as a multistage converter, or if there are any concerns within the trailer circuitry when drawing from a lithium. We're not hooked up to shore power very often, and would use our standalone generator and external lithium charger (direct to the posts) when needed. Shouldn't be this confusing.
Love your channel! How did you add the outlet?? About to go full time and want to add an outlet behind the toilet for an electric bidet. Can not find videos on adding an outlet to the RV.....
I have acid batteries and my converter overcharges them and got acid all over my front compartment and battery box. What smart converter would you recommend ? Also if you install a smart converter does that require you to change inverter also? Thanks love your videos! Bill Armstrong
Depending on your converter there is a setting or jumper to set it to regular charge instead of fast charge which causes over charging. Inverters are independent of the charging system unless you have an all in one like a Magnum or Victron. With the more expensive inverters the charge settings can be fully adjusted to suit any type of batteries.
VERY good vd keep up the good work.. I HAVE 2PANEL OF MAXIMUM VOLTAGE 52.8V MAXIMUM 3.32 AMP EACH. WHAT SISE OF REGULATER CHARGER WILL I NEED FOR A 12VOLTS AND 30AMP SERVICES PANEL
I'm looking for guidance on converting my standard lead acid system to a LiFePO4 system. I have a 50a DC to DC charge controller, a 3kw pure sine wave inverter, a 200ah LiFePO4 battery, and a battery monitor. All are Renogy products. Any advice?
Hey Jared, thanks so much for this information. Do you know if the PowerMax 55 that you've recommended on this video will work with a 30 Amp system? If not, can you direct me to a converter that will please? Also, I have a 2018 (year) Lance 2375 (model) that does not currently have solar, but I plan on adding at some point. Do you know if I will have to do an additional upgrade to my converter when I decide to add solar? Thanks in advance for your input! BTW, I really appreciate your videos and and explanations of how things work and your advice on what works best for various RV applications. Keep up the great work!
Great video. 👍 and subbed. iotta send you a unit to try yet?? I have lots of experience with the inteliwizard. A company we use that has ove 800 rental trailers for stars uses them exclusively. They last long time and rarley have problems. Looking forward to new batter tech.
So I just pulled the trigger on a PowerMax converter, and then it hit me, what about the stock control toggle switch and indicator light panel. I guess that will be obsolete? Thoughts? 1997 Fleetwood Southwind 32v
I've looked into these multi stage converters and the reviews are mixed which one is the all in one big daddy?running lithium batteries living full time with solar running all electronics
Which victron converter would you recommend. I’m so confuse which ones to get. I bought a new lithium battery (power queen 12v 200 amp hours) and it’s always losing power when I use the leveler or the slide. I reset the battery by detaching the negative wire and reattach it. So I’ve been told the converter needs to be replaced to work with the lithium battery.
I like my Iota... set it for my lead acid batteries...I would like to use a feature with a switch to charge my batteries at 14.4.v when ruining a generator but the location is difficult to access. The location of the converter is important, I'm thinking it should be closer to the batteries with thicker wire?
Nice video -- My dual 6V Golf Cart Interstate Extreme Cycle (GC2-ECL-UTL) batteries recommend: Bulk 14.8 Absorb 14.8 Float 13.5 Equalize 15.6 @ 2 hrs which is a bit higher than most 12V systems -- any recommendations?
Old video but I have a question. I called Xantrex today and they claim that they do NOT have a Convertor option in any of their products. Yes, they have an Invertor/Charger but it only charges the batteries and does NOT provide 12vdc amps for things like a convertor would do, such as you mentioned running out the slides, leveling system, etc, i.e. things that need a boost of amps. So, I'm not sure if I believe the Xantrex rep I spoke with, but perhaps you can comment on the Invertor/Charger from Xantrex actually being a Convertor as well?
Great video! Question: Right now we have a 1200W Xantrax Inverter that only appears to be powering the lights, slides, awnings, that sort of thing. None of our outlets (except the microwave) are hot when on inverter only. Would upgrading the inverter to a higher wattage power some outlets or is the camper hard-wired to only run certain loads regardless? I assume the latter. We have a residential frig that's electric only so we can't even have that powered when traveling or dry camping. Of course the TVs are not powered either. Just curious.
Question??...if on shore power..will by convertor power all my 12v stuff in my rv..Reason i I ask is I'm switching to 24v solar setup with 24v batteries and 24v large inverter.. Can I shut my charge convertor right off?
Hey Jarrad, On a new 2021 Rockwood Travel Trailer with the solar package can I replace the AGM battery with a new Lithium Ion battery just plug and play. It has the charge controller in the bedroom. Thanks for your help Jarrad!
Very well explained and analogie.
A lot of people don't understand what's going on with the solar controller and then the converter.
Which confuses people. Great job.
You don't need to change out your converter with a lithium upgrade, but it's best if you want to recover faster to 100 %
I waited to watch this video, I thought it’s not really for me. So I finally got some extra time and I just watched this video I am super impressed it completely explained the difference between inverters and converts! Very helpful video thank you!
Glad this was helpful to you!
I replaced my old converter with the 100 Amp power max. It's great really. It will charge a big bank of batteries and run everything much better than the one that came factory on our holiday rambler. We have 1800 watts of solar and a leaf power wall for our 120 but I kept all the 12 volt stuff too. I like victron it's nice but expensive.
Outstanding video. My OEM controller failed a week ago, now going thru this exact decision process. Greatly appreciated.
Thank you for being the only one who takes the time to explain this
I have not purchased an RV yet, but I have been watching numerous TH-cam videos regarding the topic including upgrades and just plain travel videos. Your videos offer excellent tips and advice. I think that I would lean towards going with a total lithium install or retrofit. Great information as always.
Thanks!
Great idea. We did almost 2 years of research before buying our RV. We finally have our truck and RV and will be hitting the road full time next year. We can't wait.
I always like the way you can explain and demonstrate concepts for lay RVer’s like me. Thank you
Your explanation was very good. I'm glad your around for us newbies.
We just bought a smart battery charger at Walmart. We don’t have the money to buy an expensive converter. The old converter was making weird noises so I disconnected the fan and the primary on the transformer and we got a 15 amp charger and it does a good job. With one solar panel and a 700 watt generator we only pay out $30-$40 a month for gas and oil for the generator that has a 2stroke engine. We plan to get more solar panels
Brilliant video! You are a master at explaining and simplifying complex ideas. So appreciated! ❣️
I know this is an 'old' video, but you used great analogies. Well Done
I would agree mike! Great analogies used to explain the sulphation process
BOY do I wish I had seen this a few months ago! Put an older charger (10 amp) on my brand new wet lead plate battery, and forgot about it, until I saw the battery smoking. Killed that battery, wasted money, put our “home away from home” in a precarious position. AND I had to get a new battery. Lesson learned.
Thanks again for explaining a technical issue in lay mans terms. I have enjoyed viewing your videos. Just discovered your channel as part of following along KYD!
Thanks for doing this video. I am upgrading my RV electrical from the original '91 model...yeah 32 years old and I want to add some upgrades to it (electrical slides, addl plugs, etc.) This gives me the need for one and its so confusing otherwise. Appreciate the clarity!
Our lead acid batteries are much healthier after changing to a 3 stage converter.
My new favorite RV channel.
Love your explanations, your voice is also great. Keep producing.
The converter charger that cam with my 5th wheel died due to a power surge, and I replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power 9200. The batteries I bought after installing that are holding up much better and require less maintenance than the last ones.
Fantastic video! Was thinking about upgrading my batteries and thought it might be a good idea to upgrade the converter to help get the most out of new expensive batteries and this was very helpful. Thanks! Subscribed
Great Video, why not leave the acid battery controller where it is, power off circuit breaker to controller. Install new controller in the front bay on the 5th wheel trailer near the batteries. Run your POS & NEG cables from new controller directly to your lithium batteries? If you ever decide to go back to acid batteries discount new controller and turn old old controller at circuit breaker.?
Nicely done and very helpful. There’s so much information out there i needed a simplified approach.
I can swear in my new RV the fans on the converter have never gone on. I had it replaced under warranty by the dealer because we kept getting a high pitch squeal from the converter when two many DC items were running. The new one does not squeal now, but I check it over an over and I have never seen those fans spinning. Perhaps I should swap it with a different one. Also I would love to get your help with installing solar on my rig if that is something you would be interested in. We can talk in more detail if so. Safe travels and another great video.
Good explanation with examples that make it easy to understand batteries and converters.
I really enjoy your videos. Always useful information. Your explanations are always easy to understand.
Thanks!
Great video. Thank you from an RV newbie. Just picked it up today. :)
I can attest to GoPower being pretty good quality. They are the higher priced inverters on the market but worth the investment. Their customer support is decent too. Great informative video as usual Jared!
I bought the 24v 2000 watt pure sine inverter. That thing has taken a beating for over a year and it’s still running smoothly. I’m gonna be upgrading to the gp 3000 watt inverter/charger soon though
Just replaced my single 12v batteries with dual 6v. Saw comments about how the factory convertor tends to kill batteries. Googled and boom of course you have a video. Should have checked your channel first haha
Good job on the explanation. I am not electrical savvy so I learned. thx
Just ordered the power max- thanks
Let me tell this, l just change mine, and works perfect!!!!
thanks for the info! i just replaced my converter
The biggest problem with the progressive dynamic lithium converter is that it maintains 14.6 volts in lithium mode after charging. This is really not good for lithium batteries. They should be maintained at closer to 13.6 volts and having them sitting that high all the time both significantly shorten their lifespans.
Excellent! (as usual) How about a video on how to do the swap between an old single stage and a multistage.
As always, excellent content. Thanks for sharing.
Very impressed by you...as USUAL!
A word of warning about the PowerMax converter-chargers. Put a meter on one and you'll see that they never put out anywhere near their rated output. For example, the 55A unit won't charge at more than 19-20A, no matter what you do. It WILL fully charge your battery if you wait long enough, but only on utility power. If you're trying to charge from a generator, running all night isn't feasible. Second complaint: PowerMax doesn't like to provide firm performance data, troubleshooting info or any technical assistance at all. I and several friends were burned by this brand, and eventually bit the bullet and bought converter-chargers from Iota Engineering. American made, and a solid, reputable company that actually returns phone calls.
So you are saying, my 55amp, does not put out the stayted amps, I am upgrading from a 45 amp, burnt out to 55 amp wyco 3 stage.
So should I upgrade breaker from the panel and wires to the battery?
@@rejmonwilson I'll be testing this and let you know. I have Just purchased this 55 amp Powermax
ok..... I just got off the phone with IOTA, (they got bought out, so no longer US assembled...BUT all inventory goes thru them for parts and quality control, plus they employ AZ people so awesome!) Had a great conversation with a tech, helped me with sizing, module type...etc. Need to replace stock WFCO converter and Deep cycle setup on my 5th wheel toy hauler. thanks for the tip, cause NOT many are legit!
This is almost certainly due to the wiring between your battery and the converter. Most camper manufacturers woefully undersize this wiring and it causes a significant voltage drop between the converter and the battery which makes the converter think that the battery is almost fully charged the entire time causing it to not put out the current it's supposed to.
@@DoRC I'm going through this right now. I installed 2 100ah Battleborn battereries and with my original li-AGM-LA charger it took several hours to charge the batteries when set to lithium. So I bought a lithium only 70A converter charger from Progressive Dynamics and still several hours to charge. I'm Getting 14.6V at the charger and 13.4V at the batteries. The amperage will vary between 12A and 30A on my shunt battery monitor. I have 6 gauge wire and the batteries are about 12' away from the charger. Do you think I need to run heavier gauge wire?
Good vlog, you’ve made me smarter, job well done...
Thanks man! Good info. Think our converter died this weekend so I’m looking to upgrade
Good info, you do well on al your videos, thank you.
What about lithium batteries?
My reply from renogy “Not at all. The controller will see any outside source charge on the battery and limit any input from the panels to keep the batteries from overcharging. The controller also has a blocking diode to prevent any back feed from that outside source charge through the controller and to the panels. “
Great video Jared!
Thanks
thank you for sharing I am a single old woman. My husband was like You but he decided after 37 yrs of marriage this younger woman he met was what he wanted to be doing. So You're wonderful for sharing I luckily got to have two sons, they are married so I can't get as much help as I need but I pick and choose my battles I really need help with. I found TH-cam and its saving my kids from a lot of their time, and me from hearing OH MOM, just hire someone or Oh Mom I wished I had time whatever so many Oh moms. But they are wonderfuful and have all been my Heros since My divorce.
For one, I’m so sorry to hear about this as it just breaks my heart. Second, I’m so thankful that our videos are a help to you and hope that they continue to be helpful to you!
GREAT Ed. thanks.
I used a 4 stage boondocker model 60 amp in my last rv and it worked great. Had dual 6v batteries and kept them in tip top shape and after several years still going. In my new trailer I will do the same. Maybe this time a 100amp boondock with dual 6v.
Boondock comes from the Filipino word "Bundok". Hence boondocking is literally going to the mountains.
Good video as usual which is why I’m a subscriber lol. I have a question for you. I’m wanting to upgrade the electrical system in my RV and I’m getting lost in all the choices and options as well as all the technical jargon. I’m probably over complicating it so I thought I’d ask for some advice. Can you tell me where I should begin lol. Also, other than your fantastic channel where should I go to get the info I need to keep this a DIY project? Even basics like which battery should I get, do I need a converter or inverter and which should I consider and so on and so forth. I hope that makes sense lol
Thank you for any advice/help
Cheers mate and happy trails
I like RV with Tito he has a lot of really good information about solar. When it comes to batteries it depends on your budget. Lithium is the best with a large upfront cost, if I couldn’t afford lithium but could get an AGM then that would be my next choice. My last choice if cost was the concern I would do sets of 6 volt golf cart batteries. The place to start is figure out how much power you want in your battery bank how much you plan to use at any given point of time will tell you how big of an inverter you want and then pick how many watts of solar you want to replace what you use out of your batteries or how big of a generator. This might be easier if I just plan to do a video on designing your Rv electrical system.
Yes! Please do a video on designing an RV electrical system. It would be really helpful. I have done a ton of research and am about to go full time (with a wife and two kids), but still feel like I have no clue as to the best system for me and am stumbling in the dark with all the choices. I know I want lithium. I think I am going to start with 400Ah, but I am pretty lost from that point forward. I'd gladly pay for a couple hours of coaching, too, if that is an option.
what if you have lithium batteries, will i need a differnt convertoer?
That is the million dollar question since no one has lead acid batteries anymore!
Great video as always.
Excellent info. Thanks again!
Outstanding good video thanks 😊
Great job. Could you now explain how to connect battery maintainer to 2 six volt batteries wired in sequence?
Great videos! A had purchased and Power Max PM3-100K 100 AMP converter and then wondered how I was supposed to hook it up with my existing Magnatek model 6332 32AMP distribution panel and I t looks like you have a similar Distribution panel to mine. I was wondering how I was supposed to hook it up with the plug that it comes with. I never have taken off the lower part of the distribution panel to see what's in there. I think the reason for my confusion is that the power comes in and as far as I can tell, the 30AMP cord goes right into the panel.
So my question is: Where do you put the plug you installed? Is it before the panel or somewhere after the panel?
I really appreciate any help you may be able to provide for me. Thank You
Another great video, thanks.
Thanks for the details on your posts. You rock! I own a 2020 Forest River Class C. with 2 lead acid batteries. I have a very basic question - How do the house (same thing as coach?) batteries get recharged?
What if my starter battery is lead-acid but my house battery is lifepo4?
Great video's both in content & production. One thing I keep missing regarding inverters/chargers (or converters?). How are the DC circuits such as awning, slide motors, lights, etc. powered? All I see on the Victron MultiPlus as well as others is DC in, AC in, & AC out. I see where there is an on-board switch to be able to switch from shore or generator to battery power. But can't tell how the on board DC circuits are powered.
Jared, thanks for all the great information. I have a related question; my 15 amp breaker for the converter cuts out when I’m charging the batteries off my generator. My Epoch 300 Ah battery wants to pull in 50-78 amps and it seems like too much for my converter? I bought a 15 amp charger with my Epoch battery and used it to charge my Epoch fully for its initial charge. Can I use my solar generator (off-line from my RV) to power that 15 amp charger to charge my battery while it is hooked up to the RV and being used by the RV? Kind of a convoluted question but don’t want to hurt my lifepo4 battery. Thanks!
Normally Does the negative battery travel uninterrupted from the negative battery terminal directly to the converter charger in an Rv? Thank You.
I love your Videos great info
Thanks.
So do batteries charge through the converter on Shore power and also through the converter when running the generator?
Converter chargers can operate quite differently depending on which brand/model you choose. List out what you specifically need and start researching everything available today. Most converter chargers do not care if shore power is from a generator or the power company yet some do. Switching from one to the other is usually done manually. You might speak to Progressive Dynamics as they are customer oriented and always happy to help you find the right unit for your rig.
Really enjoy your videos, and I learned a lot from the install you did for KYD. I need to replace my battery in my 5th wheel, and I'm thinking about switching to an AGM battery. Will the Powermax PM3-55 work with AGM batteries? Thx Kent
Great video! Keep them coming. I am trying to find a by-pass switch on line to by pass my Magnum m3012 inverter from shore power to my sub panel. If I ever need to work on or repair my inverter. I can't seem to find a "by pass" switch on line. Is it called something else? Would a 60amp manual transfer switch work? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Did KYD have one?
Thank you for the great information!!
Thanks so much easy to understand.
Great Vid!! For those of us that may have a single stage, is there something we can put at the battery to turn off the charging power to maybe help it float? I'm aware of the battery minder chargers but that requires 120V.
Hello Jared, thank you so much for your detailed videos. My question pertains to leaving my RV plugged in at home while not in use. Primarily, I am worried about leaving the RV plugged in for long periods of time while not in use and damaging the house batteries; mainly by overcharging. I would like to keep the fridge running and allow the A/C to keep the RV cool. I reside in Miami and I don't have to tell the kind of weather we have here. I will be purchasing a 2021 Coachmen Mirada 35OS. It is 50amp RV and I will be installing a 50amp plug at my home. I am not sure if the RV has a single stage or multi-stage converter. In summary, I would like to confirm that if I install a quality multi-stage converter (like one of the ones you recommend) in the RV, will it safely allow me to leave the RV plugged in to the 50amp plug at my home for long periods of time without damaging my house batteries? Thank you so much for your assistance.
Just updated ours this year. So quite wasn't sure it was working? Got the 45 amp which is plenty for our RV and the slideout and jack stands
Thank you!
Thanks for the explanations in the video. But I have a doubt: how to calculate the power of the battery charger when the campervan is connected to an external source, in a camping. what the specifications of this charger are. thanks
VERY well explained.
Jared, I have a 15 year old converter charging 4 -12volt deep cycle acid batteries. I noticed after plugging into a park site for 3 hours one battery was really warm so I checked with my multimeter. Incoming charge voltage was still 14.5 volts. I unplugged the converter and all the batteries read 12.5 volts (fully charged). Could my Converter be bad because it's not lowering the charging voltage?
How does it work if there are numerous chargers in the system? 1. Trailer factory single stage converter charger, 2. Solar charger, 3. and I was thinking of connecting a smart charger like NOCO genius G7200. Will they fight each other? Will the smart charger try to maintenance charge when full while the trailer's converter keeps pumping? I'm confused how this all works and how the batteries are actually charged with multiple chargers on the system. Thanks for any help!
Thank you so much for this episode! So this is the new one you put in? PowerMax PM3-55. I have a lead acid battery. Would this one be suitable for my battery type?
Our new one is progressive dynamics for our lithium but that PowerMax should be great for your batteries.
My old trailer had a 35 amp converter charger and I never saw over 9 amps on my meter. I think it was due to the long run of small gauge wire to the batteries. I am not sure installing a larger unit would guarantee you ever see the advertised output.
I'm in that same situation where the front two lead acid batteries are a long run, 2/3 of the 29' trailer, to the converter charger and yes, with small gauge wire. So I just ran my own heavy 4 gauge welder's wire from the second terminal of the charger/converter straight to the battery bank. I agree this makes more of a difference vs throwing more amps through a thinner wire. Thus I my opinion I don't need to change out my 55 amp WFCO three stage charger/converter. Now if I had lithium batteries, that's a different story...maybe one day, then I would need massive amps charge capabilities.
Late to the party but I’m adding dual lithium batteries so naturally I’m looking at compatible converter charger .
Question is when choosing amperage the original is 55A . Is 100 amp better or will it be too much and cause problems some reviews of converter getting too hot or burning up. Am I safer going with a quality 65A unit ? Thanks.
If is possible too, can you help me?
I am in the design phase to transform a Sprinter 211 cdi, new (2021), L1H1, all a little tight !!!!, but perfect for use here in Europe and exploring small towns, easy to park ... etc
But now I got to the point of doing the electrical project, which I'm not used to doing, I'm a civil engineer, I understand 110 / 220v AC circuits.
I wish you could help me with that part.
I'm Brazilian, but I also live a lot here in Portugal, where I'm going to do the conversion.
Well, I started making a spreadsheet, with the equipment, the necessary power and time of daily use, I have no intention of filling the motorhome with things, not least because it is a Sprinter L1H1, and I would like to have a simple electrical installation, but I would not like have gas inside, so I would prefer a stove with only one induction zone.
To heat the water it would be a D6 truma, which is diesel.
But from the calculations I made and compared with others I saw on the net, it seems that it ends up consuming a lot of energy, making the electrical part more expensive.
I don't want to spend so much just because of induction.
I don't know what other electrical equipment I would still need for everything to work, still using the car's alternator and an external 220v point when stopped at a camping site.
In your opinion, which a good configuration sufficient to have a quick meal, with induction and stay out of the network for a day or two?which a good configuration sufficient to have a quick meal, with induction and stay out of the network for a day or two?
Well, the result of the spreadsheet was:
220V equipment
notebook - 65w - 1 hour of use - 5.4 Ah
induction cooker - 1800w - 0,4 hour of use - 60 Ah
12V equipment
USB - 50w - 1 hour of use - 4.2 Ah
refrigerator - 45w - 8 hours of use - 30 Ah
lights - 15w - 3 hours of use - 1.3 Ah
water pump - 42 w - 0.5 hours of use - 1.8 Ah
exhaust fan wc - 40 w - 1 hour of use - 3.3 Ah
I will be very grateful if you can help me by presenting an wiring electrical diagram with the necessary equipment.
I appreciate if you answer.
my address is: joaolp55 @ gmail com
Thanks
VERY informative, however, even with the mountain of internet "info", I am unable to determine whether an upgrade from our AGM is as simple as a multistage converter, or if there are any concerns within the trailer circuitry when drawing from a lithium. We're not hooked up to shore power very often, and would use our standalone generator and external lithium charger (direct to the posts) when needed. Shouldn't be this confusing.
Love your channel! How did you add the outlet?? About to go full time and want to add an outlet behind the toilet for an electric bidet. Can not find videos on adding an outlet to the RV.....
Thanks for the info. Going to look at this for the RV. On another note did I see you have a way to make a Honeywell T-Stat work in a RV?
I installed the Honeywell Pro 1000 thermostat for my RV furnace. Easy two-wire connection.
Jared....which IOTA converter specifically is the one you mentioned that will charge all types of batteries? (Lead Acid, AGM and Lithum)
thanks. im that guy. lol. that guy who needs to replace my converter on my 96 Nash. It has a Inteli power 9000. 9155. So I think i can upgrade?
Would you go with the progressive for the lithium battery? Has a 60 amp or 100 amp
I have acid batteries and my converter overcharges them and got acid all over my front compartment and battery box.
What smart converter would you recommend ? Also if you install a smart converter does that require you to change inverter also?
Thanks love your videos!
Bill Armstrong
Depending on your converter there is a setting or jumper to set it to regular charge instead of fast charge which causes over charging. Inverters are independent of the charging system unless you have an all in one like a Magnum or Victron. With the more expensive inverters the charge settings can be fully adjusted to suit any type of batteries.
VERY good vd keep up the good work.. I HAVE 2PANEL OF MAXIMUM VOLTAGE 52.8V MAXIMUM 3.32 AMP EACH. WHAT SISE OF REGULATER CHARGER WILL I NEED FOR A 12VOLTS AND 30AMP SERVICES PANEL
I'm looking for guidance on converting my standard lead acid system to a LiFePO4 system. I have a 50a DC to DC charge controller, a 3kw pure sine wave inverter, a 200ah LiFePO4 battery, and a battery monitor. All are Renogy products. Any advice?
Hey Jared, thanks so much for this information. Do you know if the PowerMax 55 that you've recommended on this video will work with a 30 Amp system? If not, can you direct me to a converter that will please? Also, I have a 2018 (year) Lance 2375 (model) that does not currently have solar, but I plan on adding at some point. Do you know if I will have to do an additional upgrade to my converter when I decide to add solar? Thanks in advance for your input! BTW, I really appreciate your videos and and explanations of how things work and your advice on what works best for various RV applications. Keep up the great work!
So the powermax 55 in your link is a multi stage converter ??? Smart charger? Wont over charge the batteries ??? does it work like a charge wizard?
I added a remote pendant to my converter that almost makes mine like a multi charger
Great video. 👍 and subbed.
iotta send you a unit to try yet?? I have lots of experience with the inteliwizard. A company we use that has ove 800 rental trailers for stars uses them exclusively. They last long time and rarley have problems. Looking forward to new batter tech.
So I just pulled the trigger on a PowerMax converter, and then it hit me, what about the stock control toggle switch and indicator light panel. I guess that will be obsolete? Thoughts? 1997 Fleetwood Southwind 32v
I've looked into these multi stage converters and the reviews are mixed which one is the all in one big daddy?running lithium batteries living full time with solar running all electronics
Which victron converter would you recommend. I’m so confuse which ones to get. I bought a new lithium battery (power queen 12v 200 amp hours) and it’s always losing power when I use the leveler or the slide. I reset the battery by detaching the negative wire and reattach it. So I’ve been told the converter needs to be replaced to work with the lithium battery.
I like my Iota... set it for my lead acid batteries...I would like to use a feature with a switch to charge my batteries at 14.4.v when ruining a generator but the location is difficult to access. The location of the converter is important, I'm thinking it should be closer to the batteries with thicker wire?
Nice video -- My dual 6V Golf Cart Interstate Extreme Cycle (GC2-ECL-UTL) batteries recommend:
Bulk 14.8
Absorb 14.8
Float 13.5
Equalize 15.6 @ 2 hrs
which is a bit higher than most 12V systems -- any recommendations?
Old video but I have a question. I called Xantrex today and they claim that they do NOT have a Convertor option in any of their products. Yes, they have an Invertor/Charger but it only charges the batteries and does NOT provide 12vdc amps for things like a convertor would do, such as you mentioned running out the slides, leveling system, etc, i.e. things that need a boost of amps. So, I'm not sure if I believe the Xantrex rep I spoke with, but perhaps you can comment on the Invertor/Charger from Xantrex actually being a Convertor as well?
Great video! Question: Right now we have a 1200W Xantrax Inverter that only appears to be powering the lights, slides, awnings, that sort of thing. None of our outlets (except the microwave) are hot when on inverter only. Would upgrading the inverter to a higher wattage power some outlets or is the camper hard-wired to only run certain loads regardless? I assume the latter. We have a residential frig that's electric only so we can't even have that powered when traveling or dry camping. Of course the TVs are not powered either. Just curious.
Question??...if on shore power..will by convertor power all my 12v stuff in my rv..Reason i I ask is I'm switching to 24v solar setup with 24v batteries and 24v large inverter.. Can I shut my charge convertor right off?
Hey Jarrad, On a new 2021 Rockwood Travel Trailer with the solar package can I replace the AGM battery with a new Lithium Ion battery just plug and play. It has the charge controller in the bedroom. Thanks for your help Jarrad!
My 5th wheel camper overcharges batteries. I find yellow on the ground and it gets corrosion on my slides.
Would a different converter fix this?