I am always amazed at the ability of the Captains on these sail channels to fix just about anything. I consider myself to be very handy at most household repairs, but there are plenty of jobs that I won't attempt. Really impressed at the variety of skills. Best wishes.
Practice makes perfect ..... you just got to fling yourself into it and learn along the way. Lots of frustrations but its the only way to have confidence in fixing something when it goes in the middle of nowhere, with no support available.
Ich bin ein großer Fan von dir! Ich werde nicht müde deine Wartungsfilme zu sehen. Dein Schiff ist als Halberg Rassy schon etwas besonderes, aber du machst es perfekt. Es ist auch der Rhythmus den du lebst, du gehst völlig unaufgeregt an die Dinge, damit wird es wohl nie zu einer Belastung kommen. Noch nie einen solchen "Seebären" wie dich gesehen. Hut ab.!!
After completing your Barrier and Bottom coats you commented "this is how it should of been in Harrington" and I think you weren't wrong. Some episodes ago I noticed your boat parked behind Osprey Marine at Harrington. I hired them to soda blast below water line allowing me to focus on painting and I was very pleased with end result. Your boat looks great and I enjoy your worldly videos. Oh and I like your special tool for applying grease to seacocks. Thanks
Yes, would have had a soda blast in Herrington but for 2 reasons 1) they wanted $4000 to do it! Antigua was $1200. 2) the temperature was dropping rapidly and was getting too cold to apply the Interprotect barrier coat. So we sailed out of winter to cheap Antigua and warm weather.
Outstanding job Glen.... I just love that you show the detail on your jobs, and you might be as meticulous as I am about running wires, and having things done right. Very quickly have become my favorite sailing channel. I might never get to sail but watching your Video's as been an absolute pleasure. Can't wait for the next one! Fair Winds and Following Seas to you both!
You guys keep an immaculate boat! Loved watching you get her ship-shape! I hope to someday own a Hallberg-Rassy. I crewed on a H.R. 46 from Antigua to Granada, and Panama to Marquesas and fell in love with that boat!
Wunderbar indeed!! She is looking beautiful, spot on waterline 👍😀 A lot of hard work and love has gone into this haul out, hats off to you! Looking forward to that spinnaker again .... in the water this time 🤣 Thank you for sharing, very insightful yet again 🙏👍
Thanks Zeger. We were planning to try the spinnaker when we crossed to Montserrat, but the wind was gusting 20kts so a bit to much for a first try.... or maybe I'm just getting chicken in my old age! Next opportunity will be the downwind run from Anguilla to BVIs in about a month. What we really bought it for was the long light & downwind passages across the Pacific.
Sail Cloudy Bay Well that would mean I am getting old as well ... or am already 😂 Large sails with a crew of two: a gentle breeze with lots of maneuvering space around would be my choice hehe! Although setting it while on the hard is my kind of wild 😜Great work done on the hard, you keep great care of CB, a joy to see 👍
There are so many things to love about your HR54... what a great cruising boat. It's crazy, but the thing I love the most, is all the room you have in the Engine Compartment and in and around the thru hull fittings... We have an Ericson 35, and I think our main cabin has less room than your engine compartment!! HA HA HA... Also love your attention to detail.
@@SailCloudyBay We are in lockdown in Italy. We live aboard our boat in late spring and summers in Mystic CT (Near Stonington where you visited)... waiting to get back to the USA so we can get back on our boat. Wishing you guys luck in your lockdown.... We really enjoy your videos...We are virtually sailing with you two over morning coffee each day! Thank you for the great videos...
Great job attitude and universal skills. Reminds me on my boat. But it is a proof of the common saying the a round the world cruis is a permanent repair at scenic places Have a good and enjoyable trip 👍👍🍀🍀🍀🍀
I have to say that I'm so envious of your engine room. Talisman has such a tight space, and things are impossible to clean. I also wish Oyster had painted the interior cavities white instead of primer gray. There are times I feel like going after it, space by space, with white epoxy or enamel, but I know it's just too big a job. Excellent work on your part to keep things clean and properly sorted.
Another great video love watching you two definitely love her voice narrating these videos and the boat is looking good good job captain y'all be safe have fun
Hi wow fast replay thank you , you are a very talent sea man I'm an ex navy officer as a chief engineer on missile boats , and always when we have the dock poeriod maintinance ALWAYS the paind specially the last anti fouling was sprayed along the boat and that is from long years experience we have .
Yes, sure what you say is correct, I've just never heard this before. I just looked that the video and can see how you picked this up .... the yard guy was doing a really horrible job in putting it on and there are clearly vertical strips showing in the video.
Great job guys, Glen, I enjoy the attention to detail both maintenance and sailing. Oana great job on the narrating and video quality is awesome. Looking forward to more fantastic videos. Wishing you both a Happy and Prosperous New Year, Fair Winds and Following Seas.
I use those same coolers on my Hylas and they work quite well. You should see a reduction in amp hours to maintain the temps. Nice video, thanks for sharing.
Really great video Glen & Oana, as I noted in a previous comment we (s/v Refuge, Toronto) were actually in Jolly Harbour at the same time as you in December. We flew down to see a Dufour 48 GL called Stormbreaker. She had come across on the Arc and is bigger and better equipped for cruising than our current Dehler 39SQ . Haven’t made the offer yet... our hesitation is in managing her size ...had I known you were there at the time I would love to have got your opinion on her (same yard) ! Either way this August we untie the lines from work and start our long awaited cruising life! Keep up the great videos guys ... we really enjoy them and look forward to each episode as we wait out another Canadian winter!! Cheers S/V Refuge!
Really, dont worry about size. The largest boat I had before this was a 34ft. I thought 54ft would be daunting, but I was also told dont fear the size, you will get used to it and never look back. And thats exactly what happened for us. first time out was a bit nerve wracking ... but we soon learned how to handle it. Its like driving a car then being asked to drive a truck. You dont think you can, but you actually can. And the benefits of a bigger boat are huge. Yes, sorry to have missed you. I cant think that I saw a Dufour 48 in the yard. Was it up in the top yard where all the longer term storage is? Enjoy the Canadian winter. At least you guys get a proper winter, not like UK wet, warm and windy and unhealthy. I used to live in Newfoundland for a while ... the land of 10 months of winter and 2 months of shitty weather!
I love your videos and such a fun relationship. The boat is so beautiful and I can only dream of owning one. I have sailed and worked on boats before. Sailing itself is great fun. But the work involved in maintaining a safe and practical boat is overwhelming in both time and cost. One must be a mechanic and an engineer in order to sail these boats. It’s good to document this for sailing dreamers such as myself. It seems that the boats cost millions and, if one can’t be one’s own mechanic, the cost of maintenance by professionals could cost millions more. Or perhaps even doing your own maintenance could cost hundreds of thousands of Euros. I love the sea and the beauty of your boat and relationship. However, the maintenance seems to be a nightmare, even on the very best boats such as a HR. So it’s good to have your videos which reminds me of the nightmare as well as the dream. I will continue to enjoy your sailing adventures and I am glad to be reminded of the nightmare as well as the dream. Thanks and best wishes for happy sailing in 2019.
Great comment. Thanks. Yes you have got to love the maintenance as well as the sailing and the dream. Many other yachts have professionals doing the work, but not us. Whenever we seem to have a "professional" on board we have more troubles than he actually solves! Of course, if you are stationed in one place you soon get to know who you can trust and who not. But continuously on the move that is a challenge.
You two have tremendous attitudes and work ethic. Though I drool over Cloudy Bay, the thought of it scares me as having way too many of the great KIT that has to be maintained, repaired, etc. My boat is rather basic and still overwhelms me at times. I love it but wonder if it will sink me at times!!!! Old salt once told me to question every upgrade as a "Nice to Have" or a "Need to Have". Keep it Simple is something I try for.
Yes, totally agree with you. If I had a day job I would be the same. But this is our life, 100% of the time, so we have plenty of time. And there is a big difference in comfort with these systems (especially for the Admiraless) ... and keeping her happily on board is a key factor to my happiness :) So the maintenance and upkeep just gotta be done!
100% agree and you both seem pretty skilled. Happy Wife, Happy Life. I do love the boat work, have two young ones in school and a wine import business still that takes lions share of schedule. Plan to full on retire in 7 years. Will live vicariously through Cloudy Bay until then!!!! . @@SailCloudyBay
Glenn, if I could also chime in on varnishing.....I used Awlgrip´s Awlwood product on my old boat on several pieces, primarily on a stern cap rail that needed replacing and on the cabin top hand rails. Other pieces of wood trim had Epifanes varnish that had been applied the year before. After just one season in the Texas Gulf heat, the difference was night and day. Epifanes had begun to crack and craze, peeling off in a few spots, while the Awlwood looked like new. Just my opinion, but if you decide to treat your rails again, Awlwood will provide a superior finish and will last for years....many years. It´s a bit pricey (around $90/quart for the primer and finish) but what you save in maintenance is invaluable. Also, the next time you address your bottom, you may wish to consider Hemple´s SilicOne paint. As the name implies, it´s a silicone based product that is non-toxic and non-ablative, therefore is more environmental friendly as opposed to more traditional anti-fouling. The idea is it provides a surface that is so slippery, whatever attaches to the hull while at rest will fall off once you start moving. Similar concept to the Prop Speed you applied to the running gear. I used it on my Oyster 53, applying last spring. After 6 months in the water (2 months in an English estuary) and 1800nm of cruising, the boat was hauled and the bottom was completely clean except for a bit of scum that had accumulated along the waterline while sitting in a Spanish marina. What was there easily washed off with just a swipe of my hand. Price is also competitive. The literature states it will last for 10 years. With normal paint, you´d be looking at 5 or 6 bottom jobs, at least. I´ve only had it on for a year, but so far I´m very impressed. Bonus points......increases hull speed too. Just my 2 cents.
Phillip thanks for sharing your experience. Interesting on the varnish because i heard from another person that Awlwood in the Med needed to be completely stripped off after just one year. So I was put off that product. And in the Caribbean they all swear by Epifanes. Maybe its just the way these products are applied that makes the difference. Anyhow, for now we will leave it bear teak and left it go silver because I joust dont have the time to stop for 2 weeks to get all the necessary coats on. Interesting on the Hemple SilicOne paint. I will go look that up. years ago there was "teflon" antifoul paint with the same idea ... but it never worked. Which English estuary were you in? The Orwell new to Ipswich? If on the east coast, those waters are terrible for growth.
@@SailCloudyBay According the the Awlwood lit, proper application is critical for long-lasting results. I know Epifanes is widely used, but I found it simply doesn´t hold up compared to Awlwood. I used it on my first boat, which was when I was living on Lake Michigan. There, the boat only saw the light of day from late May to October, and in a climate not nearly as harsh as the Gulf coast. Nonetheless, it did the same thing, started looking dull and crazed after only 2 summers. I used Awlwood on my cockpit table and obtained excellent results. Interestingly, Fox´s in Ipswich had never used the product but were so impressed with the results I obtained on my table, they decided to finish the rails on a 56 they were refitting with Awlwood. Back to the bottom paint, I think you´re referring to Interlux´s VC17. It´s commonly used on performance boats in the Great Lakes, and I used it on mine. Yes, still got growth with VC17 but not that bad. But since it was ablative, bottom had to be done every year....spring ritual. With SilicOne, it´s much harder and doesn´t come off unless you hit something. After hauling, I was very impressed with how good the bottom appeared, almost like it had just been painted, and there was not a single barnacle to be found except on the top of the rudder where no paint was applied (I´ll fix that before launch). Yes, we were in the River Orwell getting Bora lá readied for our cruise, and after about a month in the water, we had a nice "beard". By the time we arrived in Guernsey, the waterline was completely clean, and remained so for the remainder of the summer. We sat in a marina in Spain for about a month before hauling, and by then scum had formed along the waterline, but as I said, it washed off easily using only a rag and water. Personally, I´m sold on the product. Cheers.
Great video. If you decide to re-varnish the rail, you might consider using penetrating epoxy as your primer and then as many coats of a good quality varnish on top as you would normally do. Prior to using the penetrating epoxy, give the teak a wipe down with acetone.
John, the issue with epoxy primer is if you ever want to get it back to wood. I was planning to put 2 coats of normal varnish at 50/50 with thinner, as primer. then 8 coats more. This would give a nice flexible coating. Then 2 coats of Awlcraft 2000 Clear to act as UV protection and a hard finish. But we could not find Awlcraft Clear in the islands. Anyway ... the teak is now all bleaching white pretty fast here - so I guess that is how its going to stay now!
@@SailCloudyBay Epoxy penetrating primer like Smith's. Tried and true. Then Epifanes or other spar varnish. If you let teak bleach, you may find that the soft part of grain eats away. You should get more than 6 months from your varnish. Forget two-parts unless you are a pro. It is clear you that you were getting moisture under your varnish.
You weren't kidding, this down to business episode is really great. A most enjoyable narrative from you both, Oana nailing it here with a breezy flow and verse! Great teamwork on what's being done. What I most like about your repairs episodes is that we armchair sailors learn quite a bit. Am currently in a meeting with investors to consider opening a quality discount grocery chain similar to Trader Joe's in Antigua and other islands, those profits should cover my new yacht in a season, wow.. and that tape peel scene.. so satisfying. Well done. Hoping to see Glen's white hat from 2016 to make an appearance as well!
thanks for the great comment. Yes, peeling that tape off was super satisfying! Especially that we had managed to get back, exactly, to the original waterline mark .... within a mm all around. White hat? ... Hmmm, I'll have to go dig that out!
Thanks. Will look into that for sure. Actually, now that we have the bimini up (boom light is above the bimini) we now get a nice warm glow in the cockpit rather than the doctors surgery effect!
It was on for nearly a year then we partially took it off in USA in November, but decided to finish the job in Antigua due to cost in USA. So it looks worse than it was. Plus its done 14,000 mileson that last coat. to see how it looked at exactly 1 year, take a look at the maintenance in Herrington video.
Teflon tape is great stuff for smaller pipes. I use a teflon infused pipe d-ope for residential stuff around the house, etc. The pipe d-ope looks like peanut butter It is even LP and Natural gas certified. The thing about teflon tape is that it doesn't seal large diameter pipe well at all...or at least it is a lot harder to do so.
@@SailCloudyBay Lowes in the US sells it. I have been disappointed with several other brands they sell as well. This stuff never fails me: RectorSeal T Plus 2
"MeetsANSI LC 7-2009 Working Temperature Range -40°F to 125°F. Maximum Working Pressure: 125 psi. For Use With Natural Gas & LP (VAPOR STATE ONLY). Use on Steel, Galvanized Steel, Iron, Brass, Copper and Aluminum. For Pipe Size Up To And Including 1 1/4 Inch". I have used it on much larger pipe than 1 1/4 inches. You just end up using a lot of it. I also think it will probably take temps for a long time up to 140 degrees F or more.
Change your surgery lights and use the one that the strip lights change colour and when sailing use red,otherwise when working on your boat use the brighter light mode,Cheers from Australia !!
@ Cloudy Bay: The correct way to braze refrigeration lines is with fluxless brazing rod AND a nitrogen trickle through the copper line while brazing. Also, a new filter drier is installed every time the lines are exposed to atmosphere.. The system has to be evacuated before refrigerant is added back. Any refrigeration or a/c tech will confirm what I have written. Omitting the nitrogen trickle allows a load of black gunk to form on the inside of the tubing and that gets into the expansion valve, evaporator distributor and compressor.
Thanks for the advise Paul. Unfortunately getting good refrigeration people in Caribbean is really tough. I think I will try to find another more qualified person in St.Maarten and have the systems vacuumed.
Yes, I'm just new on that path to learning the intricacies of refrigeration maintenance. Clearly its not rocket science, but it does have its specifics you need to be very careful of. I bought gauges and a bottle of R134. Maybe I should get a vacuum pump too. Question is, where do you stop? vacuum pump? brazing torch? refrigerant detector? In mid Pacific I'll probably be glad to have all that!
@@SailCloudyBay The R 134 is worthless without a vacuum pump, manifold gauge set, fluxless brazing rod, nitrogen bottle and nitrogen regulator. Best to get experience before you need it.. The small sizes you are working with can (probably) be brazed with a Bernzomatic jet torch. When you are in the US, you can get the vacuum pump and manifold gauge set cheap from Harbor Freight.. Practice brazing on some copper scraps with the nitrogen trickle. Pressurize your practice assembly and check for leaks with Windex or soap solution.Cut it apart to confirm that you can make a clean braze.. If your refrigeration circuit does not have service ports,then you need a refrigeration scale and a spec to weigh in the correct amount of R 134.
Paul, fully understand. But what makes "R134 worthless with a vacuum pump"? Not questioning you, just trying to understand, because our fridges seem to be working OK after 3 weeks now. That said, with your advise and several others too, we will be having all 3 systems vacuumed and refilled correctly once we get to St.Maarten, where services are as good as europe.
Patrick Childress Sailing. In Europe I was using Hemple but that was not available this side the Atlantic. So we have been using international Micron Extra - dark blue.
Love how you take care of a Swedish beauty! Regarding the Hydraulic wang. The salty enviroment probably hurts the the seals scrapinglip. A clean with WD 40 now and then. Is probably a good Idea. Did that on my sons dirtbikes. Made the last much longer. Maby a cover for the piston, is not a bad idea too? Big spin, comparing to my tiny 50sqm. :) Are you going to hoist and douse, directly true the hatch? Looks like a pain to handel it otherwaise? Best regards from Sweden.
The piston is stainless steel and doesnt seem to be affected by salt and the seals are only a few months old too. But maybe regular cleaning of salt may help. Yes, this new spinnaker is 228m2. A big boy! With the sock we launch through the hatch (with sock down) then lift the sock up. For dousing we will bring down the sock then bring everything onto the deck. Then later take it down the hatch in a controlled manner, putting back into its bag in the bow cabin. Thats the plan, this is how we did it for our asymmetric. Lets see how that goes with this ParaSailor. We will surely record it on video for everyone to see.
Good suggestion. but how to tighten up the clamp when I could only get 2 fingers max to the whole operation. Then to tighten and loosen each and every 1/6th of a turn? It would take a long time.
The really difficult one (that was leaking) I am tightening at 33:25 in the video. This is the one that I made the very short handled spanner for . Good idea though. Thanks. Glad you enjoy the videos.
Very cool! So meticulous, love it! Question, what did you replaced the “water/cooling” intakes for your fridge?? I have the same water system for my refrigerator, looked exactly like yours.....but I have never seen the ones that you used to replaced the originals?! 😳 Also what kind of system did you use on your teak wood that it comes off like that?? 😱😎
We replaced the Islotherm thru-hull keel coolers with the ones Frigoboat make. The Isotherma are good in cool water and when the boat is bobbin g up and down. But in calm warm seas they just managed to super heat the water in the thru-hull pipe. These new Frigoboat ones are much more efficient. The "varnish" we used on the teak is a German industrial product called Coelan. Challenging to put on but it you get it sealed properly it lasts for year with great UV protection. Unfortunately we had just too many protusions on our gunnels (all the stanchions) and it started to get water under it after 2 years. I was going to revarnish but decided on the easier route!
yes a credit to his yacht,why pay others when you are only happy with your own work ,my way or the highway ,pull the tape off and hooooooo-ra .well done ,this is part of the fun .safe sailing
I have a few questions about your communication equipment, pertaining to cellular data as well as Internet satellite, when you’re cruising the islands you shift between using cellular data from the islands and then jumping to satellite Internet? Do you use a cell phone repeater on the boat as well as what type of satellite Internet are you using and how reliable is it the satellite coverage?
Michael, For the internet, our preference is to always use cellular phone whenever in range, which in the islands is usually within about 10 miles of the shore. There are cellphone companies that give a package that covers most of the islands. But to conserve our data we use it sparingly, with no video streaming etc. Then, when near to shore (anchored) we always try to link into a WiFi signal using our WiFi booster antenna. We can get WiFi when a signal is within 2-300metres from our position. On rare occasions we find a WiFi that is open, not password protected. But usually its a case of finding a shoreside bar WiFi signal then going for a quick drink to obtain the password. We often re-anchor just to get near to a WiFi signal. For Satellite we have 2 systems. A Fleetbroadband that uses inmarsat and would give data speeds (250kbps) that would just about allow you to open a simple webpage and would have a similar data speed to the old dial-up method that was used land 15-20 years ago. But we have never purchased any airtime because the minimum package for this system costs $400 per month with only 40meg of free data. Its outrageously expensive. To give you an idea, to get a package that would equate to even a small cellphone data package (1Gb/mth) you would pay over $2000/month, and up to $12000 for 10GB of data. It makes the mind boggle when you see multiple inmarsat antennas on superyachts! Our other satellite system is Iridium-Go. Its a VERY slow data link that just about allows you to send emails and received very basic weather data. Its too slow to be able to go on the web. Even then, its $140 per month. So we only buy airtime when we are doing passages of more than 4 days away from cell phone signal. Our other backup is an HF radio with a pactor modem attached. With this we can link into the sailmail service and get email and weather. But using the HF is a bit like voodoo ..... sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't! Connection to the outside world via internet is likely one of the most painful aspects of cruising life. Unless of course you are happy not to have the internet, then its paradise!
They make led kits that are multi color and dimmable... They usually come with a remote. But a lot of em also have an app you can download. You can get them in many different voltage ranges... One brand that's more automobile focused I think. It's called Type S... I have a set in my car for interior lights. They're controlled by an app on my phone. But anyways. The point of me saying all this. You can use the lights at night without being blinded by using the red color instead of white so you don't mess up your night vision too bad... That's mostly why I use them in my car. Red lights glare less as well. Idk. I know this is an old video. But if the interior lights are still an issue... There's other pretty affordable options that are pretty decent...
Yes, we did look briefly at the Amel 54. I liked it as a very good Ocean going yacht, and I liked its ketch rig and the boats available were generally good value for money. But we found the design to be very dated now and we didnt like that "motor boat" feel to the steering position. We really loved the new Amel 55, but we could not afford one.
Hi guys, good job, yes I usually end up tidying up the sanding prep too. On your shackles and QR Fittings I use "Corrosion X", if you see some give it a try; use it sparingly; it has a wicking effect into screw threads and corroded parts, leave it a few minutes to soak and then exercise the fitting parts at fault. usually works. Corrosion X is also very oily too and is great to protect fittings in the weather. Cheers
removing teak plugs ,trick from local -drill small hole in the center of the plug to the top of the screw, use a new screw and screw it into the plug hole you just drilled. the plug come out without splitting the rail.
hi great videos, but I have to ask when the fridge work was done, did they get vacuumed and checked they held a vacuum prior to gas been added? it is imperative it is done to remove moisture from the system or they will be plagued with problems.
Good point. No he didn't. The way he did it, would not have let any "air" into the system. But now that I read up, you are right, it should be vacuumed. I'll get that done in St.Maarten. Thanks for noticing that.
Sail Cloudy Bay, Hope iv helped. Whenever you have a leak in a refrigeration/air-conditioning system ie. needs gas!! there is a leak/hole in which air can ingress and gas escape! Air contains moisture the biggest problem for refrigeration systems and the only way to repair the system is to vacuum it. the couplings that the systems you have will introduce air, we looked and trialled them for many years and were never happy with them when we used to manufacture and supply systems. I also noticed when he brazed the lines, it looked like he changes the fittings it would have left the lines open. the long and the short if it's opened in any way you need to recover the old refrigerant prior to work, carry out the repair maintenance then evacuate the system with a vacuum pump (overnight is best as it dries the system of any moisture yes there is a dryer installed in the system to try to dry the gas but it needs all the help it can get), only when it holds a vacuum with the pump isolated only then add refrigerant to the correct level, the correct level now that has to be calculated and the correct weight of gas added or if you have a sight glass you can watch that till the flow is clear and consistent ( a good sight glass will also have a moisture indicator built in). Moisture in the system will freeze in the capillary tube or if on larger systems the expansion valve and cause the system to fail. I'm an ex-marine engineer/refrigeration engineer and I can assure you unless they use a vacuum pump and the proper service ports that can be evacuated along with the lines and refrigeration gauges all the way to the cylinder with refrigerant it will always introduce air. if I can ever help drop me a line always happy to help.
If you are doing hydraulic fixes it is good to have a very fine sawdust handy. The sawdust from routing “custom wood” as in cheap furniture paneling is best. The fine dust scavenges the oil from the surface it is sitting on.The oil filled dust needs to disposed of away from the boat as it burns slowly but ignites very easily, it burns like candle wax. Regarding the brazing, a safety tip I learned just this week is th-cam.com/video/aqR4_UoBIzY/w-d-xo.html this simple to make magic compound will protect the fibre glass hull from the intense heat of the flame. No doubt you know that when ever flames are part of the work on a boat you must always have a fire watch person. That needs to be you, don’t leave that to others. The person doing the work usually can’t see what is going on around them and can set fires with out knowing it.
Again, very nice work and video! If i knew i would come to help! A question, in the other boat maintenance vid i saw you have 2 webasto heaters. How are they build in? 2 Heaters charing the same pipe or 2 heaters for 2 seperate parts of the boat? Cheers!
Nice video lots of details Glen I did not see a vacuum pump used on your refrigeration also your tech guy opened the valve to let vapour into the system. If this is 134a which most are today it is an isotopic refrigerant it must be charge by liquid feed only . If this was not done you will have problem . Dont know the date of this but if its weeks or month you may have already experienced poor performance. Fairwinds from the @captains.chair
Good point. NO he didn't. The way he did it, would not have let any "air" into the system. But now that I read up, you are right, it should be vacuumed. I'll get that done in St.Maarten. Thanks for noticing that. So initial fill has to be with liquid (with bottle upside down), not with vapor? (bottle right way up).
@@SailCloudyBay I've been an industrial refrigeration mechanic for 33 years. So I do this still every day but on units much bigger .soon to be full time sailor . As for your question yes liquid here are the steps to be followed .if you have any question you can find me on Instagram @captains.chair Step 1) pressure test 200psig min I use nitrogen inert gas and less then 5 micron of moisture which is #1 enemy Step 2 no leak? vacuum pump, time is essential to remove moisture & non condensables these will cause multiple issue .if not removed well. if you have a micro gauge to measures moisture awesome if not evacuate 30 min then break vacuum with a squirt of liquid 134a to 2-3 psig evac this back down to 30" . Close ref gages valves let stand for 15/30 min this should maintain 30" if this deflects 28" 25 " you still have moisture or possible leak repeat til your suction gauge(blue) maintains 30" make sure ALL FITTINGs ARE SNUGGED hoses to gauge and vacum pump etc. Step 3 once you are 100%sure she maintains 30" WC you are ready to charge liquid 134a only This should be weighed in by scale . On the package it will tell you how many ounces .( Tag) Anyone telling you they can charge these very small units any other way are cowboys .period If you do not have a scale or vacuum pump let me know I will explain another method. Once charged. read up on superheat and subcooling if you have digital thermometer you can check the charge using this method but it is time consuming on these little units and very finicky If you follow these instruction to a "T" you will have many many years of carefree refrigeration and when we meet up one day .I will be expecting a very cold beer...or 2 Hopefully sooner then later 🍻🍻⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵. P.S calibrate your gages before you start to 0 psig that little screws on the dial ,be gentle Fairwinds from the @captain. Chair
Jim, That advise has to be worth at least several beers! Thanks so much. I dont have a vacuum nor N2 nor a scale. But we are about to go to Sint Maarten where I will find those things plus a decent guy like yourself to administer. With these instructions in hand I will watch like a hawk this time.
If we were connecting the new keel coolers into a frigoboat system it would have been easy. But the rest of the set up is Isotherm and of course they dont have the same connectors. So we had to chop the Frigoboat connectors off and braze on isotherm ones. Sadly.
Buenos días Una vez plegada la vela y lista para guardar introducir en bolsa de plástico de vacío y con la aspiradora sacar el aire y será más fácil el guardar
Nope. Looks like they will stay bare teak. Much less work to upkeep. And it would have taken too long to varnish properly with the constant tropical rain showers here.
Hi there let me comment about the painting of the bottom NEVER EVER paint the last 2 layers upside down ALWAYS ALONG the boat , it reduces the drag and reduces the anti fouling paint to be scraped away , small advise , :-)
Thanks for the advise, I've certainly never heard that before. If the paint is put on evenly there should be no difference in drag vs any particular direction. That said, maybe you are talking about the coats that we had applied before Glen took over the painting. The guy was rollering in long vertical strips that left the paint thick on the edges and thin where the middle of the roller had gone. So he got kicked off the job and Glen finished it ... painting the last coat evenly.
Ce faci Oana? M-am uitat la 2 video uri si am zis ca femeia 100% e romanca (ai tradus o expresie din roman in engleza). Keep it up! Faine video urile dar cam rare 😔
@@SailCloudyBay It was a poor joke linking refit currency leakage from your wallet to electric current leakage from your boat. Fitting cheap or/and Chinese domestic stuff into your vessel can come back and bite you. Hard. Faulty connectors or earth or maybe that little box within a box symbol that should mean that it doesn't need an earth because its got magic electrickery components inside? Well sometimes that's just assertion.... and it doesn't. It works along the lines that it'll blow, be binned and not followed up..... rather than sink a ship with all hands. Sailing Hilma's rudder was lost mid ocean after the did some electrical work. Look them up. They have a few videos that cover cable work, later mid ocean drama followed by the restoration. The stock corroded fast. You're still here so perhaps you're OK. But if trips are tripping.... www.boatingmag.com/how-to/locating-ground-faults-current-leaks-and-short-circuits/
@@SailCloudyBay Life just gets easier , Iv found 'Napisan' excellent for cleaning teak decks etc.Wet down , light scrub with softish broom , leave for 15 minutes & hose off
Agree in some respects. Especially if you only get to use the boat once in a while. Not worth it for sure. But we get pleasure out of Cloudy Bay every day.
Well, you'd be surprised. After a 33 year career I would say that I've saved enough to have a good pension and we made a decision to sell our house and cars to do this. Cloudy bay look like an amazing yacht, but she is not worth more than the average house .... and unlike a house, a yacht depreciates!
In the yard it was like an operating theater! But now that we have the bimini up and the light is above that, we have a nice warm glow in the cockpit while outside its a good anchor light, bright on the top of the bimini. So it all worked well in the end.
@@SailCloudyBay I just had an idea for getting paint into all those hard to get to places. Get her into a dry Dock. Remove sensors and plug through-holes. Mask off topsides down to the bootline. Give Hull a little rub over. Fill dry Dock with antifoul or copper coat. Drain & dry. Unmask and unblock thru's. Then just add water. I'm sure this would work and dispenses with that support patch nonsense. What do you think? Edit. You may have to refill, drain and dry a couple of more times.
Ratus Bagus what a brilliant idea. But there would be no need to mask off the top sides! And ... how would we paint from waterline to the boot line, eh? Eh? The technique might also use a tad too much paint too!
Hi Guys. Need to get a honest opinion. How often have you wished you were in a much smaller yacht. I ask this because I want something around 50' and I am told it is silly and I should be looking sub 40'. I dont believe I will be comfortable with a smaller yacht.
Short answer: For us, we have never wished for a smaller yacht. FOR LIVEABOARD, if you can afford the yacht, upkeep and mooring fees I would always go for as big as you can up to about 58ft. You get used to handling the size quickly. Above 58ft the loads on everything become significantly higher - too high for a couple to handle if the systems go wrong or you need to drop or raise a sail at sea. Below say 48ft you are struggling to get all the needed equipment on board like fridge/freezer volume, water/diesel volume, generator, watermaker, aircons, heaters, washing machine, all your water toys, bikes, downwind sails, tools, spares parts etc etc. Well, you can get squeeze them in, but you loose valuable stowage. For instance we fell in love with a Malo46, but it had no generator or watermaker. Just adding those we would have lost massive amounts of valuable stowage. We simply couldnt see where everything we needed would fit into the yacht. The other factor is performance. No matter what size yacht you have, when you put all your liveaboard gear onboard, it likely weighs up to 3-4 tons (yes .. really!). The larger the yacht the less waterline you lose for that weight (only 2-3cm on a 30ton yacht like Cloudy Bay). It get worse on a lightweight yacht or cat, the reduction in waterline is significant, leading to reduced sailing performance which could even take the yacht beyond design capabilities in ocean conditions. And lastly, from Oana's point of view, if we are to live full time on the yacht then it needs to feel like home and not camping. The happy-wife-happy-life concept is very important to ones karma :) Likely the people telling you go sub-40ft are not aware of what electric winches, hydraulic furling, bow thrusters etc can do to make handling easy when short handed. Or they dont want all the maintenance that goes with them. They are also likely only weekend sailors with the occasional 2 week holiday on board where hand-grinding winches, slab reefing and "camping" type living is acceptable for that short period of use. That said, we have seen LOTS of people on sub-40ft yachts looking quite happy! But their yachts often look cluttered and low in the water.
@@SailCloudyBay 54 ft. for $2000.00 is a steal. I had to pay $2,100.00 here in San Francisco Bay for 30 foot Sea Ray. No sanding, patching or filling. It did however include the lift and relaunch. See before and after at th-cam.com/video/kT4dhGx69KE/w-d-xo.html Love your channel and your unbelievable work ethic. Your a better man than I. Cheers, Jay
Just to add, we had great work done in Herrington. The gelcoat repair by Osprey was fantastic and the polishing worked out really well too. regarding the bottom, we had no choice but to strip it all off due to a reaction with fresh water and it was the stripping back that was a huge cost compared to having it done in Antigua. The other 2 factors were time and temperature. We really wanted to get south before the weather closed in and doing the bottom properly would have added another week at least. And the temperature was already marginal for applying the 2-pack barrier coat. So yes, we mentioned "this is how it should have looked in Herrington" but it was not meant as a bad mark against services there.
Just to be clear, in Herrington they wanted $4000 just to strip (soda blast) back to original barrier coat - a 1-day job. And then painting would have been $1000 per coat. In Antigua we had a haul/launch, the paint stripped and all the paint (5 coats) applied all for $2000.
I am always amazed at the ability of the Captains on these sail channels to fix just about anything. I consider myself to be very handy at most household repairs, but there are plenty of jobs that I won't attempt. Really impressed at the variety of skills. Best wishes.
Practice makes perfect ..... you just got to fling yourself into it and learn along the way. Lots of frustrations but its the only way to have confidence in fixing something when it goes in the middle of nowhere, with no support available.
Ich bin ein großer Fan von dir! Ich werde nicht müde deine Wartungsfilme zu sehen. Dein Schiff ist als Halberg Rassy schon etwas besonderes, aber du machst es perfekt. Es ist auch der Rhythmus den du lebst, du gehst völlig unaufgeregt an die Dinge, damit wird es wohl nie zu einer Belastung kommen. Noch nie einen solchen "Seebären" wie dich gesehen. Hut ab.!!
Karlheinz, Vielen Dank für den sehr netten Kommentar. Es freut mich sehr, dass dir die Videos gefallen.
Doing a job to perfection is a zen-like experience. Nicely done.
Totally agree. A job worth doing is worth doing well ... or not at all.
After completing your Barrier and Bottom coats you commented "this is how it should of been in Harrington" and I think you weren't wrong. Some episodes ago I noticed your boat parked behind Osprey Marine at Harrington. I hired them to soda blast below water line allowing me to focus on painting and I was very pleased with end result. Your boat looks great and I enjoy your worldly videos. Oh and I like your special tool for applying grease to seacocks. Thanks
Yes, would have had a soda blast in Herrington but for 2 reasons 1) they wanted $4000 to do it! Antigua was $1200. 2) the temperature was dropping rapidly and was getting too cold to apply the Interprotect barrier coat. So we sailed out of winter to cheap Antigua and warm weather.
Outstanding job Glen.... I just love that you show the detail on your jobs, and you might be as meticulous as I am about running wires, and having things done right. Very quickly have become my favorite sailing channel. I might never get to sail but watching your Video's as been an absolute pleasure. Can't wait for the next one! Fair Winds and Following Seas to you both!
Thanks Gordon. love comments of appreciation like this. Keeps us doing it!
You guys keep an immaculate boat! Loved watching you get her ship-shape! I hope to someday own a Hallberg-Rassy. I crewed on a H.R. 46 from Antigua to Granada, and Panama to Marquesas and fell in love with that boat!
Wunderbar indeed!! She is looking beautiful, spot on waterline 👍😀 A lot of hard work and love has gone into this haul out, hats off to you! Looking forward to that spinnaker again .... in the water this time 🤣 Thank you for sharing, very insightful yet again 🙏👍
Thanks Zeger. We were planning to try the spinnaker when we crossed to Montserrat, but the wind was gusting 20kts so a bit to much for a first try.... or maybe I'm just getting chicken in my old age! Next opportunity will be the downwind run from Anguilla to BVIs in about a month. What we really bought it for was the long light & downwind passages across the Pacific.
Sail Cloudy Bay Well that would mean I am getting old as well ... or am already 😂 Large sails with a crew of two: a gentle breeze with lots of maneuvering space around would be my choice hehe! Although setting it while on the hard is my kind of wild 😜Great work done on the hard, you keep great care of CB, a joy to see 👍
There are so many things to love about your HR54... what a great cruising boat. It's crazy, but the thing I love the most, is all the room you have in the Engine Compartment and in and around the thru hull fittings... We have an Ericson 35, and I think our main cabin has less room than your engine compartment!! HA HA HA... Also love your attention to detail.
Anthony Petrillo thanks for the nice compliment on Cloudy Bay. Yes, for me too, the engine room was a huge selling point for this model.
@@SailCloudyBay We are in lockdown in Italy. We live aboard our boat in late spring and summers in Mystic CT (Near Stonington where you visited)... waiting to get back to the USA so we can get back on our boat. Wishing you guys luck in your lockdown.... We really enjoy your videos...We are virtually sailing with you two over morning coffee each day! Thank you for the great videos...
Anthony Petrillo you are welcome. And we loved Mystic. But only visited it on a rainy day by car.
Great job attitude and universal skills. Reminds me on my boat. But it is a proof of the common saying the a round the world cruis is a permanent repair at scenic places Have a good and enjoyable trip
👍👍🍀🍀🍀🍀
Could you imagine listening to Oana speak every day as your school teacher? Would truly be Heaven.
Yea ... shes good at treating me like a kid! haha. Especially if I go near her galley!
Excellent video. Many thanks for showing us how tidy a boat should be.
We like to keep it that way .... but when that hull goes back in the water its all downhill for another year!
Thank you for such thorough and very well done video, especially, for the excellent ongoing comments by the "captainess"
Yes Oana (correction: AKA Admiraless) is getting very good and making a good story flow. Thanks for the comment.
Just absolutely love how meticulous you are with your boat!
Thanks John. We like to keep our home and means of transport tidy :)
Beautiful to watch you lavish attention on such a glorious boat.
thanks .... yes it does get quite a lot of attention recently. Now enough .... time to cruise!
I have to say that I'm so envious of your engine room. Talisman has such a tight space, and things are impossible to clean. I also wish Oyster had painted the interior cavities white instead of primer gray. There are times I feel like going after it, space by space, with white epoxy or enamel, but I know it's just too big a job. Excellent work on your part to keep things clean and properly sorted.
Another great video love watching you two definitely love her voice narrating these videos and the boat is looking good good job captain y'all be safe have fun
Thanks Ernest, glad you like the style. Oana is getting pretty good at the narration.
Another sooper vid from the shipy-shorest Captain on the Tube. 👍
😏Custom made tools have a special drawer in my TB...🤓
I vote for teak as teak...🥂
We take your vote ... bare teak it shall stay!
Not sure if "Shipy-shorest" is a good thing or not??
Another great video. Many people hate their on the hard time, but I simply love it.!!
For us .... its a kind of love-hate time! Love to get the work done and enjoy doing it. But trying to live on the boat at the same time is not fun.
Hi wow fast replay thank you , you are a very talent sea man I'm an ex navy officer as a chief engineer on missile boats , and always when we have the dock poeriod maintinance ALWAYS the paind specially the last anti fouling was sprayed along the boat and that is from long years experience we have .
Yes, sure what you say is correct, I've just never heard this before. I just looked that the video and can see how you picked this up .... the yard guy was doing a really horrible job in putting it on and there are clearly vertical strips showing in the video.
Love your attention to detail.
Since finding your channel I have been watching from the beginning.
Keep the great content coming.
Glad you are enjoying them Joshua. Hope you have lots of popcorn there!
Great job guys, Glen, I enjoy the attention to detail both maintenance and sailing. Oana great job on the narrating and video quality is awesome. Looking forward to more fantastic videos. Wishing you both a Happy and Prosperous New Year, Fair Winds and Following Seas.
Thanks for the very nice comment Peter
It seems like those maintenance jobs on the hard are never easy, but everything turned out really nice! Thanks for sharing! 👍👍👍👍👍👍😊⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵
With the "frustrations" and your attention to detail, you will be a happy owner for sure.
You got that right ... no pain, no gain, no happiness :)
I use those same coolers on my Hylas and they work quite well. You should see a reduction in amp hours to maintain the temps. Nice video, thanks for sharing.
Yes, so far so good. You can really feel the heat they dissipate. The old ones just used to heat up the water in the sink drains when at anchor.
I think you could get a job in that boat yard, you do a fine job on everything no cutting corners, enjoyed the video 👍
Thanks ... but they could pay me enough to work on other people's boats!
Really great video Glen & Oana, as I noted in a previous comment we (s/v Refuge, Toronto) were actually in Jolly Harbour at the same time as you in December. We flew down to see a Dufour 48 GL called Stormbreaker. She had come across on the Arc and is bigger and better equipped for cruising than our current Dehler 39SQ . Haven’t made the offer yet... our hesitation is in managing her size ...had I known you were there at the time I would love to have got your opinion on her (same yard) ! Either way this August we untie the lines from work and start our long awaited cruising life! Keep up the great videos guys ... we really enjoy them and look forward to each episode as we wait out another Canadian winter!! Cheers S/V Refuge!
Really, dont worry about size. The largest boat I had before this was a 34ft. I thought 54ft would be daunting, but I was also told dont fear the size, you will get used to it and never look back. And thats exactly what happened for us. first time out was a bit nerve wracking ... but we soon learned how to handle it. Its like driving a car then being asked to drive a truck. You dont think you can, but you actually can. And the benefits of a bigger boat are huge. Yes, sorry to have missed you. I cant think that I saw a Dufour 48 in the yard. Was it up in the top yard where all the longer term storage is? Enjoy the Canadian winter. At least you guys get a proper winter, not like UK wet, warm and windy and unhealthy. I used to live in Newfoundland for a while ... the land of 10 months of winter and 2 months of shitty weather!
Very informative , seems you are quite capable to maintaining your fantastic beautiful boat. Thank you for shearing 👍🍺
Thanks for the comment, again.
great job , great video. All ship shape and Bristol fashion. Well done
Thanks Howard.
The hull thickness is very thick, a lot if boats are half that or less, great boat!
Good to know. Thanks
I love your videos and such a fun relationship. The boat is so beautiful and I can only dream of owning one. I have sailed and worked on boats before. Sailing itself is great fun. But the work involved in maintaining a safe and practical boat is overwhelming in both time and cost. One must be a mechanic and an engineer in order to sail these boats. It’s good to document this for sailing dreamers such as myself.
It seems that the boats cost millions and, if one can’t be one’s own mechanic, the cost of maintenance by professionals could cost millions more. Or perhaps even doing your own maintenance could cost hundreds of thousands of Euros.
I love the sea and the beauty of your boat and relationship. However, the maintenance seems to be a nightmare, even on the very best boats such as a HR. So it’s good to have your videos which reminds me of the nightmare as well as the dream. I will continue to enjoy your sailing adventures and I am glad to be reminded of the nightmare as well as the dream. Thanks and best wishes for happy sailing in 2019.
Great comment. Thanks. Yes you have got to love the maintenance as well as the sailing and the dream. Many other yachts have professionals doing the work, but not us. Whenever we seem to have a "professional" on board we have more troubles than he actually solves! Of course, if you are stationed in one place you soon get to know who you can trust and who not. But continuously on the move that is a challenge.
Sail Cloudy Bay The best part is how kind you both are. Happy New Year 🦋
You two have tremendous attitudes and work ethic. Though I drool over Cloudy Bay, the thought of it scares me as having way too many of the great KIT that has to be maintained, repaired, etc. My boat is rather basic and still overwhelms me at times. I love it but wonder if it will sink me at times!!!! Old salt once told me to question every upgrade as a "Nice to Have" or a "Need to Have". Keep it Simple is something I try for.
Yes, totally agree with you. If I had a day job I would be the same. But this is our life, 100% of the time, so we have plenty of time. And there is a big difference in comfort with these systems (especially for the Admiraless) ... and keeping her happily on board is a key factor to my happiness :) So the maintenance and upkeep just gotta be done!
100% agree and you both seem pretty skilled. Happy Wife, Happy Life. I do love the boat work, have two young ones in school and a wine import business still that takes lions share of schedule. Plan to full on retire in 7 years. Will live vicariously through Cloudy Bay until then!!!!
. @@SailCloudyBay
Great idea ... please do. And spread the SCB word!
Glenn, if I could also chime in on varnishing.....I used Awlgrip´s Awlwood product on my old boat on several pieces, primarily on a stern cap rail that needed replacing and on the cabin top hand rails. Other pieces of wood trim had Epifanes varnish that had been applied the year before. After just one season in the Texas Gulf heat, the difference was night and day. Epifanes had begun to crack and craze, peeling off in a few spots, while the Awlwood looked like new. Just my opinion, but if you decide to treat your rails again, Awlwood will provide a superior finish and will last for years....many years. It´s a bit pricey (around $90/quart for the primer and finish) but what you save in maintenance is invaluable.
Also, the next time you address your bottom, you may wish to consider Hemple´s SilicOne paint. As the name implies, it´s a silicone based product that is non-toxic and non-ablative, therefore is more environmental friendly as opposed to more traditional anti-fouling. The idea is it provides a surface that is so slippery, whatever attaches to the hull while at rest will fall off once you start moving. Similar concept to the Prop Speed you applied to the running gear. I used it on my Oyster 53, applying last spring. After 6 months in the water (2 months in an English estuary) and 1800nm of cruising, the boat was hauled and the bottom was completely clean except for a bit of scum that had accumulated along the waterline while sitting in a Spanish marina. What was there easily washed off with just a swipe of my hand. Price is also competitive. The literature states it will last for 10 years. With normal paint, you´d be looking at 5 or 6 bottom jobs, at least. I´ve only had it on for a year, but so far I´m very impressed. Bonus points......increases hull speed too. Just my 2 cents.
Phillip thanks for sharing your experience. Interesting on the varnish because i heard from another person that Awlwood in the Med needed to be completely stripped off after just one year. So I was put off that product. And in the Caribbean they all swear by Epifanes. Maybe its just the way these products are applied that makes the difference. Anyhow, for now we will leave it bear teak and left it go silver because I joust dont have the time to stop for 2 weeks to get all the necessary coats on.
Interesting on the Hemple SilicOne paint. I will go look that up. years ago there was "teflon" antifoul paint with the same idea ... but it never worked. Which English estuary were you in? The Orwell new to Ipswich? If on the east coast, those waters are terrible for growth.
@@SailCloudyBay According the the Awlwood lit, proper application is critical for long-lasting results. I know Epifanes is widely used, but I found it simply doesn´t hold up compared to Awlwood. I used it on my first boat, which was when I was living on Lake Michigan. There, the boat only saw the light of day from late May to October, and in a climate not nearly as harsh as the Gulf coast. Nonetheless, it did the same thing, started looking dull and crazed after only 2 summers. I used Awlwood on my cockpit table and obtained excellent results. Interestingly, Fox´s in Ipswich had never used the product but were so impressed with the results I obtained on my table, they decided to finish the rails on a 56 they were refitting with Awlwood.
Back to the bottom paint, I think you´re referring to Interlux´s VC17. It´s commonly used on performance boats in the Great Lakes, and I used it on mine. Yes, still got growth with VC17 but not that bad. But since it was ablative, bottom had to be done every year....spring ritual. With SilicOne, it´s much harder and doesn´t come off unless you hit something. After hauling, I was very impressed with how good the bottom appeared, almost like it had just been painted, and there was not a single barnacle to be found except on the top of the rudder where no paint was applied (I´ll fix that before launch). Yes, we were in the River Orwell getting Bora lá readied for our cruise, and after about a month in the water, we had a nice "beard". By the time we arrived in Guernsey, the waterline was completely clean, and remained so for the remainder of the summer. We sat in a marina in Spain for about a month before hauling, and by then scum had formed along the waterline, but as I said, it washed off easily using only a rag and water. Personally, I´m sold on the product. Cheers.
Really impressed very talented couple best sail channel on TH-cam.
Thanks David. Really appreciate your comment.
Great video. If you decide to re-varnish the rail, you might consider using penetrating epoxy as your primer and then as many coats of a good quality varnish on top as you would normally do. Prior to using the penetrating epoxy, give the teak a wipe down with acetone.
John, the issue with epoxy primer is if you ever want to get it back to wood. I was planning to put 2 coats of normal varnish at 50/50 with thinner, as primer. then 8 coats more. This would give a nice flexible coating. Then 2 coats of Awlcraft 2000 Clear to act as UV protection and a hard finish. But we could not find Awlcraft Clear in the islands. Anyway ... the teak is now all bleaching white pretty fast here - so I guess that is how its going to stay now!
@@SailCloudyBay
Epoxy penetrating primer like Smith's. Tried and true. Then Epifanes or other spar varnish. If you let teak bleach, you may find that the soft part of grain eats away. You should get more than 6 months from your varnish. Forget two-parts unless you are a pro. It is clear you that you were getting moisture under your varnish.
You weren't kidding, this down to business episode is really great. A most enjoyable narrative from you both, Oana nailing it here with a breezy flow and verse! Great teamwork on what's being done. What I most like about your repairs episodes is that we armchair sailors learn quite a bit. Am currently in a meeting with investors to consider opening a quality discount grocery chain similar to Trader Joe's in Antigua and other islands, those profits should cover my new yacht in a season, wow.. and that tape peel scene.. so satisfying. Well done. Hoping to see Glen's white hat from 2016 to make an appearance as well!
thanks for the great comment. Yes, peeling that tape off was super satisfying! Especially that we had managed to get back, exactly, to the original waterline mark .... within a mm all around.
White hat? ... Hmmm, I'll have to go dig that out!
Thanks for sharing. Loved every second
You can get a dimmer on the LED lights. Just got some of these for my next RV project. Love the videos.
Thanks. Will look into that for sure. Actually, now that we have the bimini up (boom light is above the bimini) we now get a nice warm glow in the cockpit rather than the doctors surgery effect!
wow - a really well cared for yacht - well done!
Thanks Marcus, we do try to keep her neat and tidy :)
Highly interesting. Excellent job again.
Thanks
That teak is a lot of work, but so gorgeous!
Love your cloudy you guys have a Beautiful boat
Thanks John
Oh wouw, how much the antifouling suffered in this short time. The propellor indeed looks great!
It was on for nearly a year then we partially took it off in USA in November, but decided to finish the job in Antigua due to cost in USA. So it looks worse than it was. Plus its done 14,000 mileson that last coat. to see how it looked at exactly 1 year, take a look at the maintenance in Herrington video.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~+++ Your travelogues and boat tips from the very friendly crew are very informative and entertaining ...
I thoroughly enjoy watching you work! lol
Good video. You should include yourself in your videos more. Good sailing and Happy New Year.
I agree Tracy ... Oana should be more in the videos.
Teflon tape is great stuff for smaller pipes. I use a teflon infused pipe d-ope for residential stuff around the house, etc. The pipe d-ope looks like peanut butter It is even LP and Natural gas certified. The thing about teflon tape is that it doesn't seal large diameter pipe well at all...or at least it is a lot harder to do so.
I've not yet found any pipe-dope that provides a seal even at very low pressures. Can you recommend one?
@@SailCloudyBay Lowes in the US sells it. I have been disappointed with several other brands they sell as well. This stuff never fails me: RectorSeal T Plus 2
"MeetsANSI LC 7-2009 Working Temperature Range -40°F to 125°F.
Maximum Working Pressure: 125 psi.
For Use With Natural Gas & LP (VAPOR STATE ONLY).
Use on Steel, Galvanized Steel, Iron, Brass, Copper and Aluminum.
For Pipe Size Up To And Including 1 1/4 Inch".
I have used it on much larger pipe than 1 1/4 inches. You just end up using a lot of it. I also think it will probably take temps for a long time up to 140 degrees F or more.
Lovely boat, nicely maintained!👍
My self relay enjoy & very useful information & very much details
Thank you
You are most welcome
Change your surgery lights and use the one that the strip lights change colour and when sailing use red,otherwise when working on your boat use the brighter light mode,Cheers from Australia !!
Yep, we have since thought about this. Maybe in another year! Cheers mate.
The good thing being able to peel it Of is it’s easy , light sand , revarnish , I don’t think I have seen varnish like this , thanks
Yes, this is a good thing about Coelan varnish. Its basically a rubberized finish.
@@SailCloudyBay I too am impressed with that, had to google it to find out what it is!
Very interesting and nicely done
Thanks
@ Cloudy Bay: The correct way to braze refrigeration lines is with fluxless brazing rod AND a nitrogen trickle through the copper line while brazing. Also, a new filter drier is installed every time the lines are exposed to atmosphere.. The system has to be evacuated before refrigerant is added back. Any refrigeration or a/c tech will confirm what I have written.
Omitting the nitrogen trickle allows a load of black gunk to form on the inside of the tubing and that gets into the expansion valve, evaporator distributor and compressor.
Thanks for the advise Paul. Unfortunately getting good refrigeration people in Caribbean is really tough. I think I will try to find another more qualified person in St.Maarten and have the systems vacuumed.
@@SailCloudyBay You seem to be mechanically capable. It is not too hard to learn how to do your own refrigeration maintenance and repairs,
Yes, I'm just new on that path to learning the intricacies of refrigeration maintenance. Clearly its not rocket science, but it does have its specifics you need to be very careful of. I bought gauges and a bottle of R134. Maybe I should get a vacuum pump too. Question is, where do you stop? vacuum pump? brazing torch? refrigerant detector? In mid Pacific I'll probably be glad to have all that!
@@SailCloudyBay The R 134 is worthless without a vacuum pump, manifold gauge set, fluxless brazing rod, nitrogen bottle and nitrogen regulator. Best to get experience before you need it.. The small sizes you are working with can (probably) be brazed with a Bernzomatic jet torch. When you are in the US, you can get the vacuum pump and manifold gauge set cheap from Harbor Freight..
Practice brazing on some copper scraps with the nitrogen trickle. Pressurize your practice assembly and check for leaks with Windex or soap solution.Cut it apart to confirm that you can make a clean braze..
If your refrigeration circuit does not have service ports,then you need a refrigeration scale and a spec to weigh in the correct amount of R 134.
Paul, fully understand. But what makes "R134 worthless with a vacuum pump"? Not questioning you, just trying to understand, because our fridges seem to be working OK after 3 weeks now. That said, with your advise and several others too, we will be having all 3 systems vacuumed and refilled correctly once we get to St.Maarten, where services are as good as europe.
What kind of antifouling tp did you use on the bottom? -Rebecca on SV Brick House
Patrick Childress Sailing. In Europe I was using Hemple but that was not available this side the Atlantic. So we have been using international Micron Extra - dark blue.
Love how you take care of a Swedish beauty!
Regarding the Hydraulic wang. The salty enviroment probably hurts the the seals scrapinglip. A clean with WD 40 now and then. Is probably a good Idea. Did that on my sons dirtbikes. Made the last much longer. Maby a cover for the piston, is not a bad idea too?
Big spin, comparing to my tiny 50sqm. :) Are you going to hoist and douse, directly true the hatch?
Looks like a pain to handel it otherwaise?
Best regards from Sweden.
The piston is stainless steel and doesnt seem to be affected by salt and the seals are only a few months old too. But maybe regular cleaning of salt may help.
Yes, this new spinnaker is 228m2. A big boy! With the sock we launch through the hatch (with sock down) then lift the sock up. For dousing we will bring down the sock then bring everything onto the deck. Then later take it down the hatch in a controlled manner, putting back into its bag in the bow cabin. Thats the plan, this is how we did it for our asymmetric. Lets see how that goes with this ParaSailor. We will surely record it on video for everyone to see.
A small 2 inch C clamp would work under the water heater to tighten the fitting.
Good suggestion. but how to tighten up the clamp when I could only get 2 fingers max to the whole operation. Then to tighten and loosen each and every 1/6th of a turn? It would take a long time.
I thought I saw you had the fitting in your hand. Anyway, there are many small spaces I have used the C clamp in my 38 😊.
Love your vids.
The really difficult one (that was leaking) I am tightening at 33:25 in the video. This is the one that I made the very short handled spanner for . Good idea though. Thanks. Glad you enjoy the videos.
Nice one. Was hoping for the policeman incident... sigh.. I have learned that I can't have it all... 😊 Looking forward to seeing the next one.
That made us laugh! Are you actually trying to get me jailed! :) "Officer, would you mind if we videoed you arresting us?"
If you still have leaks Try t tape with loctite 567 white sealant over the tape on your plumbing fixtures next time.
Very cool! So meticulous, love it!
Question, what did you replaced the “water/cooling” intakes for your fridge?? I have the same water system for my refrigerator, looked exactly like yours.....but I have never seen the ones that you used to replaced the originals?! 😳
Also what kind of system did you use on your teak wood that it comes off like that?? 😱😎
We replaced the Islotherm thru-hull keel coolers with the ones Frigoboat make. The Isotherma are good in cool water and when the boat is bobbin g up and down. But in calm warm seas they just managed to super heat the water in the thru-hull pipe. These new Frigoboat ones are much more efficient.
The "varnish" we used on the teak is a German industrial product called Coelan. Challenging to put on but it you get it sealed properly it lasts for year with great UV protection. Unfortunately we had just too many protusions on our gunnels (all the stanchions) and it started to get water under it after 2 years. I was going to revarnish but decided on the easier route!
yes a credit to his yacht,why pay others when you are only happy with your own work ,my way or the highway ,pull the tape off and hooooooo-ra .well done ,this is part of the fun .safe sailing
thanks for the nice comment guys
I have a few questions about your communication equipment, pertaining to cellular data as well as Internet satellite, when you’re cruising the islands you shift between using cellular data from the islands and then jumping to satellite Internet? Do you use a cell phone repeater on the boat as well as what type of satellite Internet are you using and how reliable is it the satellite coverage?
Michael,
For the internet, our preference is to always use cellular phone whenever in range, which in the islands is usually within about 10 miles of the shore. There are cellphone companies that give a package that covers most of the islands. But to conserve our data we use it sparingly, with no video streaming etc.
Then, when near to shore (anchored) we always try to link into a WiFi signal using our WiFi booster antenna. We can get WiFi when a signal is within 2-300metres from our position. On rare occasions we find a WiFi that is open, not password protected. But usually its a case of finding a shoreside bar WiFi signal then going for a quick drink to obtain the password. We often re-anchor just to get near to a WiFi signal.
For Satellite we have 2 systems. A Fleetbroadband that uses inmarsat and would give data speeds (250kbps) that would just about allow you to open a simple webpage and would have a similar data speed to the old dial-up method that was used land 15-20 years ago. But we have never purchased any airtime because the minimum package for this system costs $400 per month with only 40meg of free data. Its outrageously expensive. To give you an idea, to get a package that would equate to even a small cellphone data package (1Gb/mth) you would pay over $2000/month, and up to $12000 for 10GB of data. It makes the mind boggle when you see multiple inmarsat antennas on superyachts!
Our other satellite system is Iridium-Go. Its a VERY slow data link that just about allows you to send emails and received very basic weather data. Its too slow to be able to go on the web. Even then, its $140 per month. So we only buy airtime when we are doing passages of more than 4 days away from cell phone signal.
Our other backup is an HF radio with a pactor modem attached. With this we can link into the sailmail service and get email and weather. But using the HF is a bit like voodoo ..... sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't!
Connection to the outside world via internet is likely one of the most painful aspects of cruising life. Unless of course you are happy not to have the internet, then its paradise!
They make led kits that are multi color and dimmable... They usually come with a remote. But a lot of em also have an app you can download. You can get them in many different voltage ranges... One brand that's more automobile focused I think. It's called Type S... I have a set in my car for interior lights. They're controlled by an app on my phone. But anyways. The point of me saying all this. You can use the lights at night without being blinded by using the red color instead of white so you don't mess up your night vision too bad... That's mostly why I use them in my car. Red lights glare less as well. Idk. I know this is an old video. But if the interior lights are still an issue... There's other pretty affordable options that are pretty decent...
Thanks for the tip. yes, we have red light in the cabin in cockpit when we are night sailing.
Very beautiful 😍👍
Excellent vid ya'll, before you bought cloudy did you by any chance look at an Amel 54?
Yes, we did look briefly at the Amel 54. I liked it as a very good Ocean going yacht, and I liked its ketch rig and the boats available were generally good value for money. But we found the design to be very dated now and we didnt like that "motor boat" feel to the steering position. We really loved the new Amel 55, but we could not afford one.
Hi guys, good job, yes I usually end up tidying up the sanding prep too. On your shackles and QR Fittings I use "Corrosion X", if you see some give it a try; use it sparingly; it has a wicking effect into screw threads and corroded parts, leave it a few minutes to soak and then exercise the fitting parts at fault. usually works. Corrosion X is also very oily too and is great to protect fittings in the weather. Cheers
Thanks, yes that reminds me that I do have Corrosion-X on board from the previous owner. Must try it.
that is a beautiful boat
thanks Benjamin
removing teak plugs ,trick from local -drill small hole in the center of the plug to the top of the screw, use a new screw and screw it into the plug hole you just drilled. the plug come out without splitting the rail.
good advice. thanks :)
hi great videos, but I have to ask when the fridge work was done, did they get vacuumed and checked they held a vacuum prior to gas been added? it is imperative it is done to remove moisture from the system or they will be plagued with problems.
Good point. No he didn't. The way he did it, would not have let any "air" into the system. But now that I read up, you are right, it should be vacuumed. I'll get that done in St.Maarten. Thanks for noticing that.
Sail Cloudy Bay, Hope iv helped. Whenever you have a leak in a refrigeration/air-conditioning system ie. needs gas!! there is a leak/hole in which air can ingress and gas escape! Air contains moisture the biggest problem for refrigeration systems and the only way to repair the system is to vacuum it. the couplings that the systems you have will introduce air, we looked and trialled them for many years and were never happy with them when we used to manufacture and supply systems. I also noticed when he brazed the lines, it looked like he changes the fittings it would have left the lines open. the long and the short if it's opened in any way you need to recover the old refrigerant prior to work, carry out the repair maintenance then evacuate the system with a vacuum pump (overnight is best as it dries the system of any moisture yes there is a dryer installed in the system to try to dry the gas but it needs all the help it can get), only when it holds a vacuum with the pump isolated only then add refrigerant to the correct level, the correct level now that has to be calculated and the correct weight of gas added or if you have a sight glass you can watch that till the flow is clear and consistent ( a good sight glass will also have a moisture indicator built in). Moisture in the system will freeze in the capillary tube or if on larger systems the expansion valve and cause the system to fail. I'm an ex-marine engineer/refrigeration engineer and I can assure you unless they use a vacuum pump and the proper service ports that can be evacuated along with the lines and refrigeration gauges all the way to the cylinder with refrigerant it will always introduce air. if I can ever help drop me a line always happy to help.
good job guys !
If you are doing hydraulic fixes it is good to have a very fine sawdust handy. The sawdust from routing “custom wood” as in cheap furniture paneling is best. The fine dust scavenges the oil from the surface it is sitting on.The oil filled dust needs to disposed of away from the boat as it burns slowly but ignites very easily, it burns like candle wax. Regarding the brazing, a safety tip I learned just this week is th-cam.com/video/aqR4_UoBIzY/w-d-xo.html this simple to make magic compound will protect the fibre glass hull from the intense heat of the flame. No doubt you know that when ever flames are part of the work on a boat you must always have a fire watch person. That needs to be you, don’t leave that to others. The person doing the work usually can’t see what is going on around them and can set fires with out knowing it.
Very sound advice William, thanks.
Again, very nice work and video! If i knew i would come to help! A question, in the other boat maintenance vid i saw you have 2 webasto heaters. How are they build in? 2 Heaters charing the same pipe or 2 heaters for 2 seperate parts of the boat? Cheers!
Ron, Each heating unit supplies air to a different part of the yacht. Basically one bow and saloon the other saloon and aft.
Can you get the Bermuda marina to reimburse you for the bottom damage? 😀
I dont think they would agree to taking the blame for me not looking closely at the depth reading!
Nice video lots of details
Glen I did not see a vacuum pump used on your refrigeration also your tech guy opened the valve to let vapour into the system. If this is 134a which most are today it is an isotopic refrigerant it must be charge by liquid feed only . If this was not done you will have problem . Dont know the date of this but if its weeks or month you may have already experienced poor performance.
Fairwinds from the @captains.chair
Good point. NO he didn't. The way he did it, would not have let any "air" into the system. But now that I read up, you are right, it should be vacuumed. I'll get that done in St.Maarten. Thanks for noticing that. So initial fill has to be with liquid (with bottle upside down), not with vapor? (bottle right way up).
@@SailCloudyBay I've been an industrial refrigeration mechanic for 33 years. So I do this still every day but on units much bigger .soon to be full time sailor .
As for your question yes liquid here are the steps to be followed .if you have any question you can find me on Instagram @captains.chair
Step 1) pressure test 200psig min I use nitrogen inert gas and less then 5 micron of moisture which is #1 enemy
Step 2 no leak? vacuum pump, time is essential to remove moisture & non condensables these will cause multiple issue .if not removed well.
if you have a micro gauge to measures moisture awesome
if not evacuate 30 min then break vacuum with a squirt of liquid 134a to 2-3 psig evac this back down to 30" . Close ref gages valves let stand for 15/30 min this should maintain 30" if this deflects 28" 25 " you still have moisture or possible leak repeat til your suction gauge(blue) maintains 30" make sure ALL FITTINGs ARE SNUGGED hoses to gauge and vacum pump etc.
Step 3 once you are 100%sure she maintains 30" WC you are ready to charge liquid 134a only
This should be weighed in by scale . On the package it will tell you how many ounces .( Tag)
Anyone telling you they can charge these very small units any other way are cowboys .period
If you do not have a scale or vacuum pump let me know I will explain another method.
Once charged. read up on superheat and subcooling if you have digital thermometer you can check the charge using this method but it is time consuming on these little units and very finicky
If you follow these instruction to a "T" you will have many many years of carefree refrigeration and when we meet up one day .I will be expecting a very cold beer...or 2
Hopefully sooner then later 🍻🍻⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵.
P.S calibrate your gages before you start to 0 psig that little screws on the dial ,be gentle
Fairwinds from the @captain.
Chair
Jim, That advise has to be worth at least several beers! Thanks so much. I dont have a vacuum nor N2 nor a scale. But we are about to go to Sint Maarten where I will find those things plus a decent guy like yourself to administer. With these instructions in hand I will watch like a hawk this time.
Did not your FrigoBoat come pre-charge with leakless connectors?
If we were connecting the new keel coolers into a frigoboat system it would have been easy. But the rest of the set up is Isotherm and of course they dont have the same connectors. So we had to chop the Frigoboat connectors off and braze on isotherm ones. Sadly.
is it possible with the new lighting to install a dimmer switch ?
Yes, we might do that. But now that we have the bimini up we have a nice warm light in the cockpit. So I guess our bimini is the dimmer!
40:10 Ah, that might explain the armed guard at a grocery store, I wonder where the locals shop.
Buenos días
Una vez plegada la vela y lista para guardar introducir en bolsa de plástico de vacío y con la aspiradora sacar el aire y será más fácil el guardar
To set the 'Carry On" style if this chap watch from 5:48.
How much this job cost you? How often you have to do this?
The bootom needs painting about once per year. Costs varies dramatically depending on where you have the work done
Fantastic beautiful
was taught never use acetone on gel or fibreglass,it's an acid which works on breaking down the materiel and weakens it
Interesting .... never heard that before.
Best is to use styrene monomer for fiberglass work.. It cleans and reactivate the old fiberglass making a better bond with the new...
Did you varnish the side rails?
Nope. Looks like they will stay bare teak. Much less work to upkeep. And it would have taken too long to varnish properly with the constant tropical rain showers here.
Hi there let me comment about the painting of the bottom NEVER EVER paint the last 2 layers upside down ALWAYS ALONG the boat , it reduces the drag and reduces the anti fouling paint to be scraped away , small advise , :-)
Thanks for the advise, I've certainly never heard that before. If the paint is put on evenly there should be no difference in drag vs any particular direction. That said, maybe you are talking about the coats that we had applied before Glen took over the painting. The guy was rollering in long vertical strips that left the paint thick on the edges and thin where the middle of the roller had gone. So he got kicked off the job and Glen finished it ... painting the last coat evenly.
Fantastic
Ce faci Oana? M-am uitat la 2 video uri si am zis ca femeia 100% e romanca (ai tradus o expresie din roman in engleza). Keep it up! Faine video urile dar cam rare 😔
I know you leaked currency but did you test for current leakage after those boom lights?
Ratus Bagus not quite sure what you mean but if you are asking the consumption of the boom LED strip, it’s about 10watts
@@SailCloudyBay It was a poor joke linking refit currency leakage from your wallet to electric current leakage from your boat.
Fitting cheap or/and Chinese domestic stuff into your vessel can come back and bite you. Hard.
Faulty connectors or earth or maybe that little box within a box symbol that should mean that it doesn't need an earth because its got magic electrickery components inside? Well sometimes that's just assertion.... and it doesn't. It works along the lines that it'll blow, be binned and not followed up..... rather than sink a ship with all hands.
Sailing Hilma's rudder was lost mid ocean after the did some electrical work. Look them up. They have a few videos that cover cable work, later mid ocean drama followed by the restoration. The stock corroded fast.
You're still here so perhaps you're OK. But if trips are tripping....
www.boatingmag.com/how-to/locating-ground-faults-current-leaks-and-short-circuits/
let the teak silver off , looks good with the deck.
Yep, thats what we have done now. SO nice not to have to worry about touching the varnish!
@@SailCloudyBay Life just gets easier , Iv found 'Napisan' excellent for cleaning teak decks etc.Wet down , light scrub with softish broom , leave for 15 minutes & hose off
Bottom paint is one of the worst, good job on that large boat. The absolute worst is a clogged toilet pipe, hope you never get to that.
We did occasionally get clogged toilet in the bow. But then we fitted and electric macerator and no problem since.
I’m so happy i dont have a sailboat anymore: ......wash......rinse......repeat.
Agree in some respects. Especially if you only get to use the boat once in a while. Not worth it for sure. But we get pleasure out of Cloudy Bay every day.
You guys must be loaded to have a boat like that and to be able to sail around the world
Well, you'd be surprised. After a 33 year career I would say that I've saved enough to have a good pension and we made a decision to sell our house and cars to do this. Cloudy bay look like an amazing yacht, but she is not worth more than the average house .... and unlike a house, a yacht depreciates!
I used half a metre of led underboom lighting and it was more than enough. (I mad the same mistake😂😂⛵️⛵️)
In the yard it was like an operating theater! But now that we have the bimini up and the light is above that, we have a nice warm glow in the cockpit while outside its a good anchor light, bright on the top of the bimini. So it all worked well in the end.
Great job. Bravo. May I say: I would never varnish the teak. It never works really well and it looks better natural.
Philippe, its already going that lovely bleached white colour and I'm kind of liking it again. So thats how its going to stay!
TEFLON tape the best
Top surface of the rudder?
Ratus Bagus what about it?
@@SailCloudyBay did you manage to get to it to paint it?
The boot line was definitely fantastic BTW!
Ratus Bagus yes, with the rudder on full lock I manage to roll paint onto the upper surface.
@@SailCloudyBay I just had an idea for getting paint into all those hard to get to places.
Get her into a dry Dock. Remove sensors and plug through-holes. Mask off topsides down to the bootline. Give Hull a little rub over. Fill dry Dock with antifoul or copper coat. Drain & dry. Unmask and unblock thru's.
Then just add water. I'm sure this would work and dispenses with that support patch nonsense. What do you think?
Edit. You may have to refill, drain and dry a couple of more times.
Ratus Bagus what a brilliant idea. But there would be no need to mask off the top sides! And ... how would we paint from waterline to the boot line, eh? Eh? The technique might also use a tad too much paint too!
Hye !!
Bonjour les moustiques !!!
Good luck !!!
600 ec or us $ ....?
US
LOL @ "I like that hole"
YUP he was doing a bad work , hope next service you will watch it LOL
Hi Guys. Need to get a honest opinion. How often have you wished you were in a much smaller yacht. I ask this because I want something around 50' and I am told it is silly and I should be looking sub 40'. I dont believe I will be comfortable with a smaller yacht.
Short answer: For us, we have never wished for a smaller yacht.
FOR LIVEABOARD, if you can afford the yacht, upkeep and mooring fees I would always go for as big as you can up to about 58ft. You get used to handling the size quickly.
Above 58ft the loads on everything become significantly higher - too high for a couple to handle if the systems go wrong or you need to drop or raise a sail at sea.
Below say 48ft you are struggling to get all the needed equipment on board like fridge/freezer volume, water/diesel volume, generator, watermaker, aircons, heaters, washing machine, all your water toys, bikes, downwind sails, tools, spares parts etc etc. Well, you can get squeeze them in, but you loose valuable stowage. For instance we fell in love with a Malo46, but it had no generator or watermaker. Just adding those we would have lost massive amounts of valuable stowage. We simply couldnt see where everything we needed would fit into the yacht.
The other factor is performance. No matter what size yacht you have, when you put all your liveaboard gear onboard, it likely weighs up to 3-4 tons (yes .. really!). The larger the yacht the less waterline you lose for that weight (only 2-3cm on a 30ton yacht like Cloudy Bay). It get worse on a lightweight yacht or cat, the reduction in waterline is significant, leading to reduced sailing performance which could even take the yacht beyond design capabilities in ocean conditions.
And lastly, from Oana's point of view, if we are to live full time on the yacht then it needs to feel like home and not camping. The happy-wife-happy-life concept is very important to ones karma :)
Likely the people telling you go sub-40ft are not aware of what electric winches, hydraulic furling, bow thrusters etc can do to make handling easy when short handed. Or they dont want all the maintenance that goes with them. They are also likely only weekend sailors with the occasional 2 week holiday on board where hand-grinding winches, slab reefing and "camping" type living is acceptable for that short period of use. That said, we have seen LOTS of people on sub-40ft yachts looking quite happy! But their yachts often look cluttered and low in the water.
@@SailCloudyBay Thank you for taking the time to reply. You have reinforced my decision to go big.
Thanks again.
Seems like you kept throwing Herrington harbor under the bus. Your bottom job would it look like that if you were willing to pay to have it done....
Yes it would have looked like that and my wallet would have been $2000 lighter!
@@SailCloudyBay 54 ft. for $2000.00 is a steal. I had to pay $2,100.00 here in San Francisco Bay for 30 foot Sea Ray. No sanding, patching or filling. It did however include the lift and relaunch.
See before and after at th-cam.com/video/kT4dhGx69KE/w-d-xo.html
Love your channel and your unbelievable work ethic. Your a better man than I.
Cheers,
Jay
Just to add, we had great work done in Herrington. The gelcoat repair by Osprey was fantastic and the polishing worked out really well too. regarding the bottom, we had no choice but to strip it all off due to a reaction with fresh water and it was the stripping back that was a huge cost compared to having it done in Antigua. The other 2 factors were time and temperature. We really wanted to get south before the weather closed in and doing the bottom properly would have added another week at least. And the temperature was already marginal for applying the 2-pack barrier coat. So yes, we mentioned "this is how it should have looked in Herrington" but it was not meant as a bad mark against services there.
Just to be clear, in Herrington they wanted $4000 just to strip (soda blast) back to original barrier coat - a 1-day job. And then painting would have been $1000 per coat. In Antigua we had a haul/launch, the paint stripped and all the paint (5 coats) applied all for $2000.
@@SailCloudyBay Side note: 2000$ for yard work and 600$ for a small cart of provisions: I can't reconcile.
To much work for me.
5+