Flex board is a common issue when the core is well cooled but other components isn’t. Instead of reballing, it is better to consider switching a heatsink combo with a better physical pressure. It is commonly seen in Inno3d ichill 700 / 900 series and some AMD 200 series high power GPUs. It could be bent too much to get internal traces cracked, and finally switch it back to reference heatsinks (which is good in looking despite a bit hotter)
PART 2 HERE th-cam.com/video/WM1lGCZZnAs/w-d-xo.html As per a few comment, it's still on my bench so I'll try running mats this morning when the card is/isn't working and see if I always get the same RAM chip fault. That may help to narrow it down a bit depending on the results. This would be easiest if I can get it to stay in the non-working state with the heat sink assembly attached
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Yep this is gonna be a broken pcb pad or 2 under one of the ram chips, the one next to the pci-e connector probably. Good luck with the repair :)
Mate you are such a good guy in fixing the graphics cards at really good prices. Unlike your counter part from across the pond.. he is good but chargers an arm and a leg. Maybe you could consider moving to Australia.. we need pple like you here.. much better weather :)
Charges an arm and a leg? Bare in mind, the guy you are referring to was replacing burnt out connectors on 40 series cards before Nvidia would even bother. He was the repair guy who stood by the fact that the connector failures were a factory error and not user error. Experience pays. Also if you do the math. Charging £100-150 to replace a power connector on a 4080 or 4090 card is a bargain considering these cards start at £900. A 1060 goes for no more than £100 (even at the time of this video). With that in mind this repair is around half the value of the 1060. I mean come on. The guy across the pond is so busy that he has to charge for an expedited service. Good business speaks for itself.
try running mats and mods in the state in which the card doesnt boot up. If it is a faulty ram chip connection you should be able to see it however i suspect in cases like these the chis also ri out the solder pads from the board along with the solid solder.
Check the soldering in the front panel connectors basically everything than can move about and has cables plugged in and out, maybe another visual looking closely at joints, I feel your pain the intermittent one's are a nightmare ! hope you get there and another very informative video...cheers.
Thanks for another interesting video. I hate intermittent problems, always hard to locate the cause. Do you ever use freeze spray for a problem like this? Regards, David.
I have freeze spray and use it in some repairs (for example in the All you need to know about power adapters Pt 2) th-cam.com/video/MlDqQpM-VFE/w-d-xo.html
Question ? of all the graphics cards you have repaired, if you were to pick a brand of card thats most reliable, what would it be, or other viewers your opinion, im looking to buy a gtx 1060 or 1080 for my older game rig, a used card of course.
When you were doing the visual inspection I noticed, at about 5:32 that the second PCIe contact has a line across it. Could that be a broken connection?
Hi jeremy I actually found the falut - check out parts 2 and 3 th-cam.com/video/WM1lGCZZnAs/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/_wmqy9j-35Y/w-d-xo.html Parts are currently on order
Is it not possible to use mods/mats etc on it to test the ram ram, I know it doesn’t work on all of the gpu’s so I assume this is one of them ? Loved the part where you asked how to make it not work again and in my head I was laughing as I know the pain and thinking just put it all back together again. It’ll soon break again then. Can you see any signs of visible bending Richard? Like, along the top edge 2/3 of the way along near the ram ? Good fun video, cheers 👍
Yeah I can run mats a few times and see if it is always reporting the same error when the board is not working. This would be easiest if I can get it to stay in the faulty state with the cooler attached. From what I saw, with the heat sink on it's more like an instantaneous bad connection because once i estart the PC it works again without flexing. It does behave differently without the heat sink bolted on. I will give it a go
Why not first try a ram/gpu reflow io reballing ! 75% sure that will work if the fault is not in the pcb... Thanks your vids from canary islands ! Cheers...
Can you clarify? Run flux under the RAM/GPU and get it hot enough to make the solder liquidous - or what some people call a reflow but it can't possibly be because they don't get it hot enough.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Personally, I would run the flux around / under with hot air and the pre-heater first. The board looks bowed, especially when the heatsink is attached. It is no surprise to me that these boards fail due to heat / stress (bad design, in my opinion, but them I'm no expert). Also tap when the board is on your extender thing, rather than in the main board.
I have the same card with 6gb memory,but same board with the same problem.But I can help if you want to check voltages/resistance. btw try run mats and maybe bios if not working then I think reflow will show you if need reball
Thanks for another interesting video. I have a faulty 2080Ti (error 43) with a KO memory module detected by the "mats" program. Windows is running in low resolution but i cannot update drivers. I did a 6 min reflow with a heat gun on the memory but it's worse, the card no longer sends a video signal, Windows starts up all the same and I hear the drivers updating. What can i do to save my 2080Ti ? Thks
If it were me id drop a stick in the case and give it a bit of pressure between the lowercase and the ram and that might support it so even if he does thump the desk it stays on? im sure if did this with my GPU thats in my server :) thats got no supports
really looks to me like a ram issue, especially the black monitor with light on is classic symptom for 10-series memory fault. I wish you had run MATS to check the memory when the card wasn't working normally
@@LearnElectronicsRepair thanks for following up, the video already showed up in my subscription feed. Looking forward to part 3, fingers crossed the card can be fixed
Maybe it's worth flexing it, to make it not work again. But since it was beeping/posting maybe then you could run memory diagnostics. If it finds faulty ram chip, then it's the one to reball. If all the ram banks are fine, then it's probably the GPU. What do you think?
u use stupidly big cooler. u need older gpu cooler. small with fan. use rubber band to attach it to board through holes connected on the othr side. than u can freely move card and measure
This is a really hard one to decide what to do. Half working Cards are a nightmare. Nice work to replicate the fault!
Can I say I was here first comment LOL 😁
No fair! Hehehe
Second !
You got it this time as I was sleeping
Flex board is a common issue when the core is well cooled but other components isn’t. Instead of reballing, it is better to consider switching a heatsink combo with a better physical pressure.
It is commonly seen in Inno3d ichill 700 / 900 series and some AMD 200 series high power GPUs. It could be bent too much to get internal traces cracked, and finally switch it back to reference heatsinks (which is good in looking despite a bit hotter)
PART 2 HERE
th-cam.com/video/WM1lGCZZnAs/w-d-xo.html
As per a few comment, it's still on my bench so I'll try running mats this morning when the card is/isn't working and see if I always get the same RAM chip fault. That may help to narrow it down a bit depending on the results. This would be easiest if I can get it to stay in the non-working state with the heat sink assembly attached
Actually this was quite conclusive - watch out for a part 2 video later this week 😉
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Yep this is gonna be a broken pcb pad or 2 under one of the ram chips, the one next to the pci-e connector probably. Good luck with the repair :)
Mate you are such a good guy in fixing the graphics cards at really good prices. Unlike your counter part from across the pond.. he is good but chargers an arm and a leg. Maybe you could consider moving to Australia.. we need pple like you here.. much better weather :)
Charges an arm and a leg? Bare in mind, the guy you are referring to was replacing burnt out connectors on 40 series cards before Nvidia would even bother. He was the repair guy who stood by the fact that the connector failures were a factory error and not user error. Experience pays. Also if you do the math. Charging £100-150 to replace a power connector on a 4080 or 4090 card is a bargain considering these cards start at £900. A 1060 goes for no more than £100 (even at the time of this video). With that in mind this repair is around half the value of the 1060.
I mean come on. The guy across the pond is so busy that he has to charge for an expedited service. Good business speaks for itself.
Love your channel. Greetings from Mexico
try running mats and mods in the state in which the card doesnt boot up. If it is a faulty ram chip connection you should be able to see it however i suspect in cases like these the chis also ri out the solder pads from the board along with the solid solder.
Check the soldering in the front panel connectors basically everything than can move about and has cables plugged in and out, maybe another visual looking closely at joints, I feel your pain the intermittent one's are a nightmare ! hope you get there and another very informative video...cheers.
I spotted a missing R908 @6:18 if anyone missed it?
It does kind of look like it, huh... not the same look as the unpopulated pads.
Thanks for another interesting video. I hate intermittent problems, always hard to locate the cause. Do you ever use freeze spray for a problem like this? Regards, David.
I have freeze spray and use it in some repairs (for example in the All you need to know about power adapters Pt 2)
th-cam.com/video/MlDqQpM-VFE/w-d-xo.html
Question ? of all the graphics cards you have repaired, if you were to pick a brand of card thats most reliable, what would it be, or other viewers your opinion, im looking to buy a gtx 1060 or 1080 for my older game rig, a used card of course.
When you were doing the visual inspection I noticed, at about 5:32 that the second PCIe contact has a line across it. Could that be a broken connection?
Hi jeremy
I actually found the falut - check out parts 2 and 3
th-cam.com/video/WM1lGCZZnAs/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/_wmqy9j-35Y/w-d-xo.html
Parts are currently on order
Is it not possible to use mods/mats etc on it to test the ram ram, I know it doesn’t work on all of the gpu’s so I assume this is one of them ? Loved the part where you asked how to make it not work again and in my head I was laughing as I know the pain and thinking just put it all back together again. It’ll soon break again then. Can you see any signs of visible bending Richard? Like, along the top edge 2/3 of the way along near the ram ? Good fun video, cheers 👍
Yeah I can run mats a few times and see if it is always reporting the same error when the board is not working. This would be easiest if I can get it to stay in the faulty state with the cooler attached. From what I saw, with the heat sink on it's more like an instantaneous bad connection because once i estart the PC it works again without flexing. It does behave differently without the heat sink bolted on. I will give it a go
Why not first try a ram/gpu reflow io reballing ! 75% sure that will work if the fault is not in the pcb... Thanks your vids from canary islands ! Cheers...
Can you clarify? Run flux under the RAM/GPU and get it hot enough to make the solder liquidous - or what some people call a reflow but it can't possibly be because they don't get it hot enough.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Personally, I would run the flux around / under with hot air and the pre-heater first. The board looks bowed, especially when the heatsink is attached. It is no surprise to me that these boards fail due to heat / stress (bad design, in my opinion, but them I'm no expert). Also tap when the board is on your extender thing, rather than in the main board.
I have the same card with 6gb memory,but same board with the same problem.But I can help if you want to check voltages/resistance.
btw try run mats and maybe bios if not working then I think reflow will show you if need reball
Heya does fault are always the most difficultie once to repair in my opinion, hopoe we gone get a part 2 from this
I have an msi card that I purchased new, it has just as much heat sink compound as this card and it was from the factory like that.
Thanks for another interesting video. I have a faulty 2080Ti (error 43) with a KO memory module detected by the "mats" program. Windows is running in low resolution but i cannot update drivers. I did a 6 min reflow with a heat gun on the memory but it's worse, the card no longer sends a video signal, Windows starts up all the same and I hear the drivers updating. What can i do to save my 2080Ti ? Thks
If it were me id drop a stick in the case and give it a bit of pressure between the lowercase and the ram and that might support it so even if he does thump the desk it stays on? im sure if did this with my GPU thats in my server :) thats got no supports
really looks to me like a ram issue, especially the black monitor with light on is classic symptom for 10-series memory fault. I wish you had run MATS to check the memory when the card wasn't working normally
Gonna give that a go see if it does give a RAM error and is consistent.
th-cam.com/video/WM1lGCZZnAs/w-d-xo.html
Part 2
@@LearnElectronicsRepair thanks for following up, the video already showed up in my subscription feed. Looking forward to part 3, fingers crossed the card can be fixed
I cannot connect to monitor how can I fix
Just some flux and reflow the ram ?
Maybe it's worth flexing it, to make it not work again. But since it was beeping/posting maybe then you could run memory diagnostics. If it finds faulty ram chip, then it's the one to reball. If all the ram banks are fine, then it's probably the GPU. What do you think?
Check out part 2 😉th-cam.com/video/WM1lGCZZnAs/w-d-xo.html
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I did watch it during breakfast :D
@@LearnElectronicsRepair
Id just tell the customer to place his case upside down
u use stupidly big cooler. u need older gpu cooler. small with fan. use rubber band to attach it to board through holes connected on the othr side. than u can freely move card and measure
Just use Ye Olde PS4 trick and screw it down with washers lol
DOOD!
Yep matey I see something, lots and lots of tiny components and some bigger components. Is that any help to you????? LOL
It might be if you can spot any looking a bit loose 🤣
Cool..Put it in a Oven..lol