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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ม.ค. 2022
- The tutorial illustrates the importance of the Bust dart and why the Basic Bodice pattern is incomplete without it .
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![[ DETAILED ] HOW TO: MAKE BASIC BODICE BLOCK PATTERN | BUST DART | BODICE FITTING | CILLA SI](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PLSOD0SNgT0/mqdefault.jpg)
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![[ UPDATED ] How To Make A Basic Bodice For Sleeves | The Sleeves Block | Very Detailed | Cilla Si](/img/n.gif)
Thank you for this tutorial! Do you have one where you show how to take the various measurements you used?
👍🏽 You’re a good teacher.
You’re a wonderful instructor, thank you for making these videos ❤
Skip to 3 minutes in.
Thanks
Absolutely fantastic tutorial. Really helpful. Thanks
So well explained. Ty
My amiable tutor ❤ 😘
Hello. Do you have a video showing how you measured all of the measurements you put on your bodice block?
Really professional and thanks for the tuto❤
Wow nice tutorial i want more
Please is side seam measurement?
Excellent 😂
You did a great job dear. Weldone
Thank you so much ❤️❤️
Thank you.
You are welcome Roxanne❤️
@@CillaSi Love that you went all the way to the fitting. I really appreciate that.
Need a description for is draft🥺
Can make tutorial on sewing stretchy materials. Measurement adjustments and cutting
Hello Cilla it’s been a while I am so happy to see you
Happy New year Portia it’s really been a while ❤️❤️I am glad to be back
I really like your teaching. Very clear and straightforward. Is dart really needed for someone whose bust is 38 and waist is 36, just a 2" difference? how do I go about the back, front, and burst dart, please?
Well I will assume the person has a big tummy and I am also not sure who you are are making it for but for mature woman who don’t like their clothes tight you have to use their actual body measurements plus ease .
For a client like this , for the blouse you need a dart because of the bust you could squeeze in a ¾ to 1 as the waist dart width add some ease on the bust like divide the bust 38 ÷4 +1” = 10.5
It means you can curve in the side seam with ½”
for a skirt you can do without the front dart and even the back dart as well .
And you also need a bust dart
Can the bust dart be applied to the princess dart pattern, even if it has to be manipulated into the arm hole dart or the waist dart? If possible please teach me how.
You know what to do, but for a beginner, the pace is too fast. It would have been helpful to get the measurements and how to divide to get the measurements to use.
You are very beautiful❤
Thank you for a well taught video. 👏👏. My back waist length is 16 and half, front waist length is 19, my seam length is 8 and1/2. The difference between my seam Length (bust line) and bust level is too wide: 5 inches. Will this pattern work?
Are you very busty ??
Hi. I tried this method, everything fits fine except my bust line has reduced in measurement creating a gap at the side seam. Can you please help
Hi I have a upper bust 5” smaller than my full bust. Will this method of drafting work for me?
Please read this carefully before you follow the instruction below !!
Now If you follow the process carefully, it will work but my advice to you is this .
First follow the first step and then sew it on a muslin . do a test fit in front of a mirror…. you will definitely see lots of gapping on the armhole.
pinch as much of it as you can , pin it and carefully remove the muslin from you and sew it up you can use hand stitch or sewing machine, next loose the side seam and go down from the armhole about 2 to 3 inches and from the armhole and draw a line to the bust point and cut it open .
Important note !! Note here that your front waist length will be definitely longer than the back waist length because of your full bust so the difference should be a side seam dart already !!! meaning you should already have a side seam dart 2 to 3 inches below the armhole at the first stage before you sew the first muslin .
In this case you will have to press that dart first with iron to mark it or simply use a pen, then loose the side seam dart first and cut the middle of the dart to the bust point ( make sure you have already sewn the gapping at the armhole before this step ) so this will increase the width of the side seam dart you have initially because of the the gapping in the armhole you just transferred to the bust . now copy this on a paper it’s best you copy just half of the front piece . Use a French curve to redraw the front armhole make it smooth.
now for the back pattern, your back armhole curve can be ½” deeper instead of ¹/₄ inch. watch the video of the back pattern you’d understand . Make sure you test this on a muslin after making all the adjustments
Actual video starts at 3.02.
Will this work for e a very large bust 49"
Well as long you using your accurate measurement, there’s a huge possibility it will work . I would advice you draft the pattern, try it on a muslin, see the fit and make any adjustments that needs to be done . You must not get it right the first time and that’s fine.
How do get the side seam measurement. I noticed you’re making adjustments.
For the Adjustment I made after sewing the first pattern, is simply to show why the pattern is not complete without the bust dart and how to get the bust dart which is the completion of the basic bodice pattern .
For the side seam I like to take the measurement directly on the body . First locate your waist and tie a string around your waist make sure you are standing in front of a mirror. From the side while your arm is stretched in front of you, you will see where your arm is joined to your body at the armpit just place two fingers under that point and measure from the end of the second finger to the string on your waist .you will need someone to help you with this measurement.
You can also divide your back waist length into two to get the side seam length but I prefer to measure as it’s more accurate.
For the adjustment I did on the side seam, I did because after inputting my bust and waist measurements and connecting both together with a line which appears to be slanted because of the proportion of the waist to the bust , this increases the length of the side seam for me from 8½ to 8⁵/₈ of an inch although just ¹/₈ difference I still need to take that off to maintain my original side seam measurement of 8½” and redraw my armhole.
Hi Wendy, just wear a vest and measure from the armhole of that vest to your waist. That'll be your side seam
Hello !!! please my side seam measurement is 8.5 and my back measurement is 16” so by the time I deduct this from my full length I’ll be left with 7.5” …… my shoulder measurement is 14.5” by the time I do the math to get the shoulder slope I fear my armhole length won’t be enough if I just join it to what’s left after I deduct my side seam length from the full back length
What do you mean by your back measurements ?
My back waist length measurement *
Before I answer your question please confirm you took your side seam accurately like this .
First tie a string around your waist
Then look for a ruler that’s 1” in width or cut a cardboard paper 1” wide place it under your armhole and measure from the bottom of the ruler to the string under your waist . Let me know if it’s still thesame
@@CillaSi Thanks so much I just did with a ruler tying an elastic rope around my true waist line , placing 2 fingers under my armhole and measuring with a wooden ruler from where my second finger stopped to the rope around my waist and I got 7 inches which is different from what I got before ….. You’re truly a life saver, God bless you !!!
@@eniolaokunola2082 great 👍 the side seam measurement could be very tricky but I prefer doing this than using any other formula . A very important note !!! you will have to lower the armhole with 1” after you have completed the draft if you are going to use it with sleeves for sleeveless lower it with ½ to ⁵/₈
Make sure you have already gotten your bust dart before you lower the armhole .
Most importantly test your pattern if possible
Please what is the practice fabric you used called? And can i get it in the tailoring material shop?
Calico or Muslin. Yes you can.
@@Omna_100 thank you
@@may2584 you are welcome
Why is better to have the bust dart come in from the side seam? If I’m making a dress with no sleeve can I have the bust dart come in from the arm hole?
Yes you can leave it on the armhole or move it any where around the upper torso .
If you are using this method and you want to leave it on the armhole make sure you close the dart and true the armhole.
@@CillaSi ok thank you!
Also sometimes I get confused with how you read the measuring tape for instance…. I don’t know what 3/16 of an inch is ?
Half of 1 cm is ³/₁₆ of an inch
1 cm same as ³/₈ of an inch
Half of 1 cm is ³/₁₆ of an inch
1 cm same as ³/₈ of an inch
Thanks a lot
Please how about 1/8 and 5/8 of an inch ?
Hi Cilla. My clients nape to waist is longer than front length. How can I draft the dart
What’s the difference??
@@CillaSi The back is 16 and the front is 14
That’s such a big difference I would say you measure again and hope it’s the front waist length you measured and not the Center front length???
@@CillaSi I WILL TRY TO RE MEASURE
GoodMorning. You have like three basic bodice pattern on your channel. Which one is more preferred to follow?
Yes two out of the three videos are the same I only throw more light on one with practical hence this very video . I really do prefer this one because it has worked out mostly for me .
Thank you. Is this the sleeveless body pattern?
@@millicentokwe838 I lowered my armhole with ½ inch to ⁵/₈ of an inch to make this bodice a sleeveless block after everything.
But you have to be sure that your side seam measurement is accurate .
I usually put a 1 inch wide ruler under my armhole before I measure to get my side seam length. so once I get this measurement I can now lower the armhole depth with ½ inch to get my sleeveless block and 1 inch for sleeves block .
The armhole of this very bodice in this video is quite high and might be too tight for sleeveless. So the thing here is that you want your sleeveless block armhole to be high but not so high that it hurts your arm and make you uncomfortable and you also don’t want it low
@@CillaSi thank you so much.
Your volumes is painfully low. Please try to beore audible next time thanks. You're doing a good job
Thank you . I watch the video again after your comments but the volume seems loud enough .
@@CillaSi okay ma. Maybe it's my phone 😢. Thanks for all you do