Part 1 Chinese 250cc 150cc Go Kart/Buggy Wiring Schematic Roketa-GK-19 Kinroad MotoBravo GY6 Engine
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- This video will take you on a tour of the Chinese Go Kart. My buggy is a DC CDI setup and has a 250cc GY6 model 172MM motor. I bought my buggy in pretty rough shape. What you see is basically what I started with. This content applies to other Chinese Go Kart makes and models. The prior owner tried to figure it out but used the wrong electrical parts (AC CDI). I hoep you find this video useful! Check out Part 2 as I go through the wiring schematic in great detail.
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Hello, I reached out on your 4pt. Vid doing the valve job, and ended up rebuilding my head, and all of the corresponding timing components. This certainly solved my compression issue. I finally replaced the previous owners chopped ignition wiring job, and found your schematic and information VERY helpful. I was able to get my replacement key switch installed first shot, even with the wire color variation on my model!!! Thanks so much for your detailed content. Keep up the excellent work!!!
Ps: my specific issue was a incorrectly installed cam chain tensioner, stretched chain-lead to bent exhaust valve and worn cam gears. Carbon build up was EXCESSIVE! head quality was super poor with burrs throughout the timing chain area, also cleaned that up.
Sometimes we just gotta dive into that engine to see the obvious eh! Thank you for the kind feedback.
Your post has the best explanation on TH-cam considering wiring layout.
I’m glad you found it useful! Thank you for the feedback.
Where is your blue and white wire mines has 3 wires red yellow and white and on the other side there is blue/white and a green wire I don’t have a black and white to go to the key switch what do I do? And I have that same exact key switch
Thank you very much it worked. I had to rewire the whole thing. The only thing I really need is the wiring for the carburetor for the choke.
I have 5 wires coming out engine 3 yellow and the other two are green and red ,is this still a DC setup?
Thx for the reply. I’ve never received a reply to a comment before. On this Honda Helix “clone”, I HAD to replace the worst fuel tank I’ve ever seen ( n filter). Now that I can shoot gas into the carb for a min of running, that vacuum style fuel pump isn’t picking up fuel. Any suggestions?
Thank you for this video I was able to fix my hammerhead someone installed the wrong CDI on it 👍
Glad to hear it! Thanks for letting me know the video helped you!
Hi, which CDI i need to use? My CDI is missing and i had only the engine harness, the second part to the front harness is missing. So i don't know how the wireing is going to fit correctly.
Thats identical to my kinroad run master 2. Litterly the frame is the same thing lol. They all gotta be from the same factory like u said.
Could you make a video of the wiring harness on the buggy. Go over each wire and where it run’s to. Just to keep it simple and painless.
Did you see my Part 2 video on this? I would think this is what you are looking for? th-cam.com/video/zwj9Y4OONJg/w-d-xo.html
I did yes! Thank you for the quick reply. I was just hoping for a quick visual video, my wire colours are different from your’s other then the green’s
@@Linderman01 did you ever get yours fixed? Because on mines my color is blue and white instead of black and white leading to the key switch
One more question sir do you know why oil is coming from the 3 yellow wires next to the stared, I think is 5 wires 3 yellow and other 2 more
I think I understand your question…if you have oil coming out of those same holes the wires are coming out of, you need to replace the crank seal on that side of the engine as it is leaking oil. You should not have any oil in where your stator is housed.
@pattywaktdiy4175 Thanks. any idea where I can buy the seal? Sorry for bothering you. I just want to get fixed
What wiring harness kit did you buy for it and also is the stator 18 pole stator with the 3 holes ?
I did not buy a new harness. I used mostly existing wires and added new ones for those missing.
Yes, my stator had 3 holes. However, the one I replaced it with did not line up exactly correct with the engine case so I only have 2 bolts securing it to the engine case. Other than that, the stator works as needed.
@@pattywaktdiy4175 the reason I asked is because I have a similar go kart but the wiring is fried and I have to buy all the complete wiring harness but I can’t find anything that fits it
@@joaquinmaciel4431 If your buggy is the same model as mine, you can look up parts for a Roketa GK-19. Most of the parts are interchangeable. Else, you can just get a bunch of spools of wire and start from scratch. I guarantee you'll be an expert on the electrical if you choose this route!
@@pattywaktdiy4175 I’m no even sure on the brand of go kart that’s why I’m having a hard time figuring out the stator and the rectifier that will fit all I know is a 250cc engine
I have a Chinese 2006 Redcat ATV that had a bad wiring harness. The previous owner really mucked it up and couldn't figure out how to wire it. Now I have it and have bought a new wiring harness, but nothing is matching up... I know the harness will work but have found NO wiring diagram on these toys (Duh! Its Chinese) Any suggestions to get this thing running??
Congrats to you on your new project. In your situation, I would start with what I know and make my own wiring diagram. Try to compartmentalize the different “systems”: starter, battery, headlights, taillights, brake lights, coil, etc. That pile of unknown wires will soon become fewer and fewer and before you know it, you’re Ridin’. Focus on what it takes to get the engine to run: fuel, timing/compression, spark. Out of those 3 only 1 is electrical. Start there.
You should still be able to use most of the diagram I have in my Part 2 video, did you see it?
Even knowing this, how do you figure out what wires coming from the ignition match the harness? Are colors or locations in the back of the ignition somehow universal
I don’t think you’re gonna like my answer…you’ll need to go thru the tedious process, like I did, to understand in detail the wiring schematic and then use a multimeter on “beep” mode to identify and label wires.
Yep turn a good multi meter to ohms/ continuity beep. You want the beep. When probe tips touch the meter beeps. With ignition off touch wires until beep. That's your 0 power or off position wires. Then turn key on aux, probe wires till beep. That's aux power, etc erc
How does the temp gauge work? There is only a green wire to a temp sensor located on the carb auto choke... my temp gauge seemed to work once but I'm baffled as to where it is getting it signal from.
Dan, the gauge basically measures resistance which is converted to a degrees (F/C) we care about. See the Part 2 video which I think will help you identify what the wires are doing.
On my liquid-cooled engine, there is a small spark plug-looking widget screwed into the return cooling line to the radiator that has 1 wire coming off of it. Resistance measurements change as temperature changes. Do a quick search on how resistance temp sensors work and it will help you understand. Refrigerators and air conditioning units all use this same concept to measure temperature electronically. It's surprisingly simple! Someone just had to figure out that electricity flows differently depending on temp.
You should have 1 wire going back to the temp gauge (somehow). The wire that connects into your auto-choke is likely just a ground connection.
ill try to be brief... great video too.
I got a new wire harness from Australia off ebay. my Kinroad came with a 2 part harness and the rear section was all chewed up. The new harness does not separate. The issue i have is the key switch has 5 wires but the new harness has only 3. Will this be an issue or do i need to add 2 wires? Love to know where to get a proper Kinroad Raptor 250 rear wiring harness....
Dan, sounds like your replacement wiring harness is for an AC CDI setup. If your ignition switch is "factory", that engine is likely designed for a DC CDI setup (like the one in my video). In which case, you would want the extra wires so you could power your headlights with just the key and battery power (without the engine running). Did your buggy have a CDI when you got it? Do the plugs look like mine in the video with a 4x2 plug? Just looking for signs to validate which factory setup you have there (AC or DC).
@@pattywaktdiy4175 Fairly sure it is a DC... My CDI has 4 wires. tracing back the B/W wire that I am missing seems to go to the upper right plug on the CDI, the kill switch. The other is the ground... So far everything is lining up. Now i need vacuum tube help and timing/ valve adjustment as i cannot get this thing to fire. I got this unit in a box of parts. To this point i have come a long way. I appreciate your reply.
I do have to ask what the yellow wire is for on the Carb choke?
@@wigleyd that wire is the “auto-enricher”. Instead of choking off air, it adds fuel to start a cold engine. That wire carries an AC power signal from the stator letting the enricher unit know that the engine is running. Internally, with this now constant source of power enricher slowly extends a plunger/pin where once fully extended inside, it closes off the extra fuel supply. You’ll notice the engine RPMs drop after about 2 minutes of idling. This is the reason why.
@@pattywaktdiy4175 looks like I'll have to splice this into a stator wire then?
@@wigleyd yes. Splice into a wire that goes from the stator to the regulator/rectifier. You could have up to 3 to choose from if you have a 3-phase stator.
Nice video sir. Where can i buy all the harnesses? Thanks in advance ☺️
Unfortunately, I can't answer this. I used what was available and added/replaced wire where I needed to. Depending on your model, which is very likely no longer in production, you'll probably have to do what I did. It'll make you an expert on the electrical for your machine!
@pattywaktdiy4175 any ideas why I went to I press the gas pedal turn off
I have a baja 250 dunne buggy i need a wiring diagram for the Stator, CDI box and the ignition do you have one
Did you see the part 2 video? That should help you. I go over a wiring diagram in detail that you compare to yours and see if it helps you.
I have a vonroad 150cc scooter and switched motors with about the same bike and it wants to start as soon as I touch the battery cables together??
If your wiring is correct, there’s a good chance your solenoid is “stuck”. Which mechanical solenoids tend to do sometimes. Smack it with a hammer to try and jostle it loose inside. The other thing it could be…there’s a relay on the solenoid that could be stuck as well. If you look at the solenoid and see a fuse, that’s the relay portion. It could be stuck as well. May just need to replace the solenoid/relay combo. They’re inexpensive. But, if your ignition wiring is wrong, it’s possible your relay is “engaged” all the time. Your solenoid and solenoid relay could be just fine.
Hi mate, well done on clear camera work and excellent explanations. Thanks for putting this up, there's very little accurate info for the 250cc, this is great. Do you have any info on the valve adjustment process?
Yes, I’m rebuilding the head now.
Working new piston, rings, cylinder, valves, valve springs, cam and rocker arms. That video will be posted within the next month…and as far as accuracy, I’m taking as much as possible from the service manual.
Here's that video (this is the final video in my 4-part head rebuild mini-series): th-cam.com/video/us_sHsQd7nU/w-d-xo.html
What if the engine is idling fine and revs up but no forward or reverse
Is the variator catching and driving the belt? (In case someone doesn’t know, the variator is the front pulley of the drive belt). If it is and you have reverse, you have a separate gear box to look at. On the front or side of the gear box, force the lever one direction or the other and see if it engages (be careful and only do this at idling engine speed. The spring on your gearbox (outside on the lever) may be worn to the point where it doesn’t force it into forward.
As for not going into reverse…these setups are notorious for “cable slippage”. You’ll just need to adjust the cable attaching to the gearbox so I pulls the lever far enough to get into reverse. Hope this makes sense.
Hey! I found one of these carts out in the desert... lucky me. I could really use that schematic on digits if you could help
Really? Wow. Finders keepers. See. Part 2 and that will take you on a tour through the schematic.
@@pattywaktdiy4175 yeah, I'm stationed out in the middle of the high desert and was taking a walk and it was just dumped under a tree. Snagged it up. Ordered a bunch of parts and now need to start chasing wires and getting it running. Watching part 2 now.
Any info on the electric choke? What triggers it? Why it wouldn’t work?
The “auto” choke works much the same way that the coolant temperature sensor works…with a resistor. Powered by 1 wire coming directly from the stator coil, the auto choke is designed to only work for about a minute before “disengaging”. It is assumed the engine warms up in that amount of time and is no longer needed. Basically, there’s a needle in the carburetor attached to a moving “resistor” which retracts slowly once power is given to directly from the stator. It’s resting, “cold” position is “extended” so the needle plugs the special air port in the carb. Hope that makes sense.
@@pattywaktdiy4175 yes it does make sense, any idea on what ohm resistor would be used in the circuit?
@@HammyChigger i replaced my carburetor which came COMPLETE with the new electrical components so I haven’t looked into it…or if it’s even possible to find that individual part separate from the carb.
I really could use your help here. I'm going crazy. I need a step by step lesson
I would suggest watching part 2. That’s pretty much a step by step lesson on the schematic.
I got a question for you I don't even know if you're still involved in these go-karts or not if you are reply and I'll ask you the question thank you
Go ahead with your traffic…
@@pattywaktdiy4175 I picked up a Trailmaster 300 it's a 2021 it's brand new I noticed riding it when you get to a certain Hill or like a stop then try to start back up again the belt squeals I'm wondering if I could change the weights and this one is well drop down to a lighter-weight for a little more low-end
I also got a hammerhead 150cc I'm a little bit more familiar and understanding with those
@@jasonurban3597 hmmm. If it’s squealing that makes me think your belt might be the wrong size or it’s backwards. Did you watch my video on changing gear ratio on these CVT (continuous variable transmissions)? If you have an asymmetrical belt, one edge has a 45 degree bevel and should likely be toward the outside of the axle so it can climb up and down the drive pulley to change the gear ratio. In summary, I’d verify belt size and orientation first.
If you don’t have enough power with the gear ratio you have, your engine should just bog down but the belt should not be slipping.
Full disclosure, I’m not familiar with the trailmaster.
@@pattywaktdiy4175 then it would had to be like that from the factory cuz the thing is brand new it literally only has 54 miles on it but I understand what you're saying and yes I did watch it awesome video by the way it just seems like when you're putting stress on it like starting from a start up a hill and really squeals like it's slipping
I have a kinroad 250 cc can you help me on how the fan I wired up
Sure I can try. What is your question, exactly? Are you installing a new fan where there was not one there before? Are you just replacing a fan?
@@pattywaktdiy4175 just trying to have it stock that's it
And just trying to figure out how it's connected to the buggy.
@@JoseManuel-lj4dk I bet your existing fan is wired directly off of your regulator rectifier. That’s where it gets power. I am finding most manufacturers use black wires for that power source. You should have one wire from your fan to a 12v source and the other to ground. My fan turns on with the key…I’m going to change that because it takes juice away from the starter motor. I’m going to put my fan on a switch. Let me know what questions you have and I’ll try to be more timely in my response.
where is the resistor and how many ohms is it?
The only resistor I know of is the water temp sensor located at the head right next to the carb inlet on this GY6 engine. Is that what you are referring to? See my part 2 video for the wiring schematic that shows the water sensor (which is a resistor).
I have a 2003 gk-03 Roketa it’s in the ghost class to ✌️
There is nothing worse than prople messing with the electrics when they dont know what they are doing.
As somebody that rebuilds anything from motorcycles, excavators, trucks all the way to ambulances i can tell you it is a very painfull time trying to figure out wtf is happening and where is the problem without going thru the entire installation. And most of them come without a diagram
Are you inferring I don’t know what I am doing? If so that’s ok. Just looking for clarity on what you are saying. See part 2 video for an extremely detailed tour of the wiring schematic, as requested.
@@pattywaktdiy4175 What i am saying is that i feel your pain with people cutting wires and doing what they r not soposto.
You seem and sound more than capable to do the job, and you got the thumbs up from me for sure 👍
I wanna pop this in a 150cc Chinese scooter and make sweet sleeper.
Why not actually say and show how to fix?? I stopped 2mins in smh
I think you had better keep watching...also watch part 2. I have an entire video series taking you thru engine rebuild.
Sounds like they just steal other companys designs and act like its ok