Looks like you've got this process well-sorted. But a couple suggestions if I may be so presumptuous: 1. Rearrange the weld bench so the welder can sit comfortably rather than stand/hover over the work. Welding is always easier/better when the welder has good ergonomics. 2. Consider a bigger gas cup on the welding torch - one of the clear Pyrex ones really enhances the vision of the welder - allowing him to work better/faster/easier. 3. If you're not already, consider a welding power supply that can blend AC current with DC current. My Everlast 255ext does this and it makes welding on thick chunks of aluminum SOO much better. Everlast calls this feature "Advanced AC pulse". It really works great. 4. Try out using 4643 filler rod. It will naturally age (even without heat treatment) harder/stronger than typical 4043 rod will. It flows/welds/works about the same as 4043. 5. Rather than beating the weld with a ball peen hammer, consider trying a pneumatic needle gun. Gives 10X the effect of the ball peen, and does it 10X faster. I use this technique whenever I weld on cast-iron. Works great. Hope you don't take this as criticism of your already-proven work!
Big welding cups are pointless with aluminium, even the product descriptions say not to be used with ac on some of the bigger ones. For stainless and titanium they are great because those are reactive metals and need that gas cover.
I would never take offense to a well thought out response and opinion. That’s how we learn! We have an everlast 325. I’m going to look into that needle gun idea.
Nice response. People are so afraid of giving out information that's so helpful to others, but stuff like this only helps without giving away trade secrets where pros make their money.
I'm not sold on the "Advanced AC pulse", you can't blend AC current with DC current - you can give AC current a DC offset which is basically what the AC balance control does, gives the AC a positive or negative bias. Looks like the "Advanced AC pulse" switches between AC and DC, so the positive cleaning half cycles cease periodically, the current remains negative and is perhaps reduced for a certain amount of time.
Awesome video as always man. Thanks heaps for making a library of quality info i can refer to if need be. You give me all the confidence in the world to weld on heads too. Thanks. Love from New Zealand to you max.
Have you tried spraying a little WD-40 On the deck surface before the finish cut? In my experience it will help prevent the cutter from galling the surface. I usually take a 5 tenths finish cut as well which usually helps with the RA and overall look. I have a feeling you already know all this and I'm wasting my breath. But I just mention it in hopes of helping. Awesome video as always Dave. On a side note do you guys ever bake cylinder heads there during the repair process to straighten them?
No cooling on the block...is this why you never see 1/4 mile cars driving anywhere but the track...thay would melt ...I love going fast but if I can't take it to pick my groceries up I'm not a fan
I think picking up your groceries in your race car is imposible once your making over 1200hp let alone 2000+. You’d be spending more money driving the car than all the crockeries you bought
@@frizzlefry1921 just what i was thinking. There are other ways to still cool that head and other ways to get coolant inside that head if needed. The pro now is that he can use a wider head gasket without blocking the water passages thus sustaining higher boost levels.
Hello Dave, today I have a question. It's not very clear to me (the translator makes things up) because once they apply the solder, they hit it with the hammer, why do they do this? Thank you. A great video as always. Regards Goyo
So Dave, with all this engine work you do at the shop… just wondering what sort of car do you drive? Do you have your own project or even a preference for a certain engine?
I have a few cars. I have 2 supercharged s197 mustangs, a 2jz fox body that I haven’t finished, a twin turbo LS swap grand national/Ttype, a 03’ lightning and I daily a procharged Silverado. Maybe I’ll do a vid on it sometime
Isnt there still open water jackets on block side of the head gasket .so water could still get out if head lifts..for that to work ud have to weld the block side 2..think about it. For real
Good morning Dave find your technical details and information very insightful, I have been an engineer rebuilder since 1981 have you ever tried 4047 filler rod I always found the shrink back of 4043 put way too much tension in the casting would really like to hear your comments
The coming years are going to bring very interesting things to the car world... With 3D printing going where it is, it's not going to be long before the average joe can do a 3d scan and print their own parts out. Like scanning this head and filling in all the coolant jackets, and doing whatever else you could think of.
The way things are going by the time 3D printing advances to the point that printing an entire new cylinder head is possible the internal combustion engine very sadly will be obsolete, a beautiful thing of the past. I hope I am wrong.
bruh, completely left out the part about the water still being flowed through it, like, HOW? In the first part I swear you said you'll show that later, but like, WHERE?
On my small block 350 Chevy heads there are threaded holes in each head that I can attach a temperature sender / sensor or I can run water into the head and then it will come out through the intake just as if I was pumping it from the Block directly into the head. Mooseheads have plugs on them holes that are threaded for sensors or other stuff to be mounted in the head
If you really wanted to run water through the head, you can drill and tap/ weld NPT bungs for water feed/return. But engines like this don't run long enough to require cooling, plus it's likely running on pure methanol which naturally runs MUCH cooler than gasoline.
@@headgames Good stuff, not to mention all the guides and seats falling out from the extreme temps across the head. In my shop in Aus l plug all the water openings, even in a complex water jacket map like a Jz. And cnc plugs for a Jz look like they were never there in the first place, and NO heat.
@@headgamesthere’s 2 kinds of people in the world people who look outside the box and people that do not. No innovations in anything have ever came from the latter. Good job, I’ve never seen this before
That's really deep and insightful factual piece of information. I doo believe this is for racing as much as it's for controling cylinder pressure and safety on something that's going to over 100 psi of boost
Wow, in my 30 years of life its the first time I hear of this. We learn every day 💪
in the first second of the video I thought he was speaking another language
'Haydeblakalii wahekeas "boneworks" today we're gonna talk about...'
Haha I’m still learning how to speak
Looks like you've got this process well-sorted. But a couple suggestions if I may be so presumptuous:
1. Rearrange the weld bench so the welder can sit comfortably rather than stand/hover over the work. Welding is always easier/better when the welder has good ergonomics.
2. Consider a bigger gas cup on the welding torch - one of the clear Pyrex ones really enhances the vision of the welder - allowing him to work better/faster/easier.
3. If you're not already, consider a welding power supply that can blend AC current with DC current. My Everlast 255ext does this and it makes welding on thick chunks of aluminum SOO much better. Everlast calls this feature "Advanced AC pulse". It really works great.
4. Try out using 4643 filler rod. It will naturally age (even without heat treatment) harder/stronger than typical 4043 rod will. It flows/welds/works about the same as 4043.
5. Rather than beating the weld with a ball peen hammer, consider trying a pneumatic needle gun. Gives 10X the effect of the ball peen, and does it 10X faster. I use this technique whenever I weld on cast-iron. Works great.
Hope you don't take this as criticism of your already-proven work!
Big welding cups are pointless with aluminium, even the product descriptions say not to be used with ac on some of the bigger ones. For stainless and titanium they are great because those are reactive metals and need that gas cover.
I would never take offense to a well thought out response and opinion. That’s how we learn! We have an everlast 325. I’m going to look into that needle gun idea.
Nice response. People are so afraid of giving out information that's so helpful to others, but stuff like this only helps without giving away trade secrets where pros make their money.
This is how we get better.
I'm not sold on the "Advanced AC pulse", you can't blend AC current with DC current - you can give AC current a DC offset which is basically what the AC balance control does, gives the AC a positive or negative bias. Looks like the "Advanced AC pulse" switches between AC and DC, so the positive cleaning half cycles cease periodically, the current remains negative and is perhaps reduced for a certain amount of time.
Never tell a welder “you can take metal off but you can’t put it back on” 😂
Awesome video as always man. Thanks heaps for making a library of quality info i can refer to if need be. You give me all the confidence in the world to weld on heads too. Thanks. Love from New Zealand to you max.
Thanks buddy!
Have you tried spraying a little WD-40 On the deck surface before the finish cut? In my experience it will help prevent the cutter from galling the surface. I usually take a 5 tenths finish cut as well which usually helps with the RA and overall look. I have a feeling you already know all this and I'm wasting my breath. But I just mention it in hopes of helping. Awesome video as always Dave.
On a side note do you guys ever bake cylinder heads there during the repair process to straighten them?
We use WD on every head! We used to use PAM. And still do from time to time.
We don’t bake them, we send them out for that.
No cooling on the block...is this why you never see 1/4 mile cars driving anywhere but the track...thay would melt ...I love going fast but if I can't take it to pick my groceries up I'm not a fan
That is correct, these things are for cars you can never drive on the street. World’s fastest. 70-100psi and nitrous. Not a grocery getter.
Thats why you have to stage in a certain time or you are accused of trying to overheat the opponents car.
Still water cooled just not passing between block and head through oem passages.
I think picking up your groceries in your race car is imposible once your making over 1200hp let alone 2000+. You’d be spending more money driving the car than all the crockeries you bought
@@frizzlefry1921 just what i was thinking. There are other ways to still cool that head and other ways to get coolant inside that head if needed. The pro now is that he can use a wider head gasket without blocking the water passages thus sustaining higher boost levels.
Hello Dave, today I have a question.
It's not very clear to me (the translator makes things up) because once they apply the solder, they hit it with the hammer, why do they do this? Thank you.
A great video as always.
Regards
Goyo
To compact the weld and reduce or remove any porosity in it is what was said.
what he said
Bruce Lee said empty ur mind like water waterless heads can hold more pressure
Dave will always be my HERO!
Love you long time
So Dave, with all this engine work you do at the shop… just wondering what sort of car do you drive? Do you have your own project or even a preference for a certain engine?
I have a few cars. I have 2 supercharged s197 mustangs, a 2jz fox body that I haven’t finished, a twin turbo LS swap grand national/Ttype, a 03’ lightning and I daily a procharged Silverado.
Maybe I’ll do a vid on it sometime
Nice. No replacement for displacement.
Isnt there still open water jackets on block side of the head gasket .so water could still get out if head lifts..for that to work ud have to weld the block side 2..think about it. For real
No, these go on a filled block or billet with no water. Otherwise, like you said it would not make sense.
It's always interesting knowing what makes the 2jz KING 👑💯⭐😎🏁🏁🏁
Ford Barra makes more than that with factory head and block
Beautiful welds
Good morning Dave find your technical details and information very insightful, I have been an engineer rebuilder since 1981 have you ever tried 4047 filler rod I always found the shrink back of 4043 put way too much tension in the casting would really like to hear your comments
no issues this far
How flow coolant in cylinder head after? It need a separate coolant pump and coolant circuit?
They run water through the head with the water pump, no water in the block.
So this is like pouring concrete in your engine to handle the power in a way right? Or am i wrong????
Kinda but we are not filling the head, still runs water. Just no water between the block and the head
Im sure there is some custom headgasket with no holes for water jackets ?
This takes a copper gasket
The coming years are going to bring very interesting things to the car world... With 3D printing going where it is, it's not going to be long before the average joe can do a 3d scan and print their own parts out. Like scanning this head and filling in all the coolant jackets, and doing whatever else you could think of.
I think maybe in many years that would be a reality. But, not soon.
The way things are going by the time 3D printing advances to the point that printing an entire new cylinder head is possible the internal combustion engine very sadly will be obsolete, a beautiful thing of the past.
I hope I am wrong.
File this under: "Things that a customer should never be allowed to see" But I like to know how the bacon is made
Top.notch work👍
Is that for just for racing the head at tracks
yes
It's the guy from law & order
without the law and order paycheck
@@headgames 🤣💪❤️
Bypass??
You dont have a smaller rotary tool?
We have smaller and bigger
I understand it's business but why not simply us a head gasket with no water holes in it ?
It’s not business, it is safety. A head gasket would not solve the problem of water getting under the car if the head lifts.
I wonder if it's possible to cool the block and head with external hoses if you use a dry deck method
You look like Vincent Philip D'Onofrio
ha! I need his fame
bruh, completely left out the part about the water still being flowed through it, like, HOW? In the first part I swear you said you'll show that later, but like, WHERE?
On my small block 350 Chevy heads there are threaded holes in each head that I can attach a temperature sender / sensor or I can run water into the head and then it will come out through the intake just as if I was pumping it from the Block directly into the head. Mooseheads have plugs on them holes that are threaded for sensors or other stuff to be mounted in the head
Nice video
And you have Space now for coper If you want to
not really, it looks like a figure 8 and burns
With sodium filled exhaust valves
nobody doing this much power with sodium filled exhaust valves
Wait so how do you cool the head?
Just let it cool
If you really wanted to run water through the head, you can drill and tap/ weld NPT bungs for water feed/return. But engines like this don't run long enough to require cooling, plus it's likely running on pure methanol which naturally runs MUCH cooler than gasoline.
We still run water through the head. Just like your saying, it has a bung or 3 of them at the top
Why weld a hollow cavity. Fill with block fill.
because we still run water through the head
@@headgamesI’m confused now
Who'd have thunk it?
l wont bring a tig anywhere near a cast head, crazy stuff, simply kills a head, soft as butter now.
20 years of doing this, never made one butter. Takes 100psi and 400 shot of nitrous like a champ.
@@headgames Good stuff, not to mention all the guides and seats falling out from the extreme temps across the head. In my shop in Aus l plug all the water openings, even in a complex water jacket map like a Jz. And cnc plugs for a Jz look like they were never there in the first place, and NO heat.
Sound like alot more work
@@crunchermuncher93 better for the head, hardness
Why wouldn’t you just do that in a milling machine?
Do what in a mill?
@@headgames remove material for welding.
@@MrBlackbutang did you watch the video? We did remove it on the mill
@@MrBlackbutang oh you mean around the water jackets. So much easier to grind it.
It’s not a precision operation. Wouldn’t justify setup time / effort or provide any benefit or advantage.
This really didn't need to be a 9+ minute video.
Thanks! Maybe you can be the director of the next one
I was hoping it would be an hour I wanted more knowledge more dialogue and explanations
@@mankind8088 thanks! I was just on the Street Alpha Podcast
🇦🇬
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️.
🙇🏾♂️
Kill the music good video
thank you for the feedback!
You just ruined that head.
That head has been mid 6’s since the video was taken.
@@headgamesthere’s 2 kinds of people in the world people who look outside the box and people that do not.
No innovations in anything have ever came from the latter. Good job, I’ve never seen this before
Drag racing is really nothing and lacks progress. This a good example😂
Maybe on your island but over here it hasn’t been stagnant for a few decades.
@@headgames It’s a stagnant car-hobby by definition.
That's really deep and insightful factual piece of information. I doo believe this is for racing as much as it's for controling cylinder pressure and safety on something that's going to over 100 psi of boost