I highly recommend a mix of linseed oil, pine tar, and pine turpentine. The water resistance comes from the pine tar, the oil and turp are mostly there to aid it in penetration. Also ads a nice "grippy-ness" to the wood without being sticky. You don't want to get the pine tar intended for horse hooves. You want Auson pine tar, which is intended for wood, and comes in light, medium, and dark. Light won't darken pine any more than pure linseed oil, while dark will turn pine almost black. The difference is a lot less pronounced in hardwoods like walnut or birch.
Thanks Sir.. you do good. I use tight bond on your recommendation. I am NOT!! a wood worker. I work metal. But unlike the Woods clan, I am a loner. Garrett, I have seen and love your work. Keep on keepin on...
That wax tip is a huge pro tip. I do the same thing. Wood wax on the steel prevents rust. Also shines up nice too. I use renaissance wax on my color case guns where I don’t want any color on the finish and I don’t want oil seeping in the wood. I’m going to order that alfy shine. Here’s a tip for you. Give Daleys products a try. I use their ship and shore sealer and their teak oil finish. It’s about the same as linseed oil it just absorbs a little faster and fills the grain better. That said it’s not traditional and if you are trying to stick with tradition well Daleys ain’t it.
Thank you Garrett for that wonderful presentation this morning it gives me a lot of ideas that I will use but I do not know what I will do with my black powder cuz I can't even find any unicorns around here
nice shop tour... I prefer Johnson paste wax... but since it is no longer in production have tried the Trewax... I find it to be a bit stiffer than Johnsons... but guess I'm stuck with it...
Do yourself a favor and get some good linseed oil. Most of it is made in Sweden. Typical hardware store brands have heavy metal driers. They will also mold and mildew in humid environments. I had used some hardware store linseed oil on an ash shovel handle. Had spores growing all over it. Sanded off all I could, but could never get it out of the open pores. After putting the good stuff on, I had no more problem except from the open pores.
That's where I'm at most of my higher end hardware stores have good Swedish linseed oil and is what I always have used. I have found the pure tung oil to set up better, in my opinion.
I highly recommend a mix of linseed oil, pine tar, and pine turpentine. The water resistance comes from the pine tar, the oil and turp are mostly there to aid it in penetration. The best pine tar and pine turp also come from Sweden. The tar also adds a nice "grippy-ness" to the wood without being sticky.
Hello! I was wondering if you could recommend books on the history, function, types, etc. of gunpowder firearms, generally speaking as early as the French and Indian War up to the end of the U.S Civil War. Much thanks!
@@Real11BangBang Yes I realize the question may have been a little too demanding as far as TH-cam comments go. I was referring to a type of historical chronological illustrated encyclopedia of the history of firearms in the U.S beginning with the early colonies and into the Civil War. With insightful comparisons and explanations thereof, such as smoothbore vs. flintlock, rifle vs musket (I know the difference of the latter comparison just using an example) etc., etc. I've looked into the author you've cited briefly, and it seems to be a couple of works on the colonial period of Pennsylvania and Virginia. Which is kind of limited but will fit the bill well enough. Any books on firearms during the war of 1812 and the Civil War? Would be much obliged. I have a minimal understanding of the weapons throughout the colonial period and early U.S to Civil War and would like to broaden my understanding of the firearms used throughout the early colonial era to Revolutionary and 1812, to Civil War period but have yet to find books on the subject. They'll typically begin at around the end of the Civil War and quickly get into the Spanish War and WW1 which I have no interest in at the moment. Given your entire channel is dedicated to guns, old guns at that, I thought it best to ask you these questions. Hope this comment wasn't too circular and winded in its read. Thanks!
It works well that is technically the best way to go. I use the wax after one month because it technically seals it up better and gives it a slightly harder finish. It's also historical. In the end, even with the wax, I will still go back once a year and give it a coat of good Swedish boiled linseed oil if that's what I'm using or tongue oil. Definitely on the inside of the gun to make sure that the wood doesn't dry out in the lock mortis
Bang bang you might get upset with me for this might even put a boot a boot in my @$$ and leave the strings hanging out but years ago i re finished my my daisy legacy .22 rifle (yep they made an actual rifle ) it had this painted greenish goldish(an absolute hideous looking color) looking stock so i sanded it down by hand using sand paper and muscle i dont recall what color of stain i used but it was just minwax and then put a coat of minwax polyurethane over it the gun applied with foam brush (no brush strokes that way) and got a great glossy finish that didnt require any sanding thats was probably 20 years ago and the finish still looks like it couldve came from a factory that way and still looks nice and shiny i can do if you want to see it
@Real11BangBang Sorry to seem pendantic it just seemed that way you transitioned from the Walmart "boiled" linseed to the tung ....you didn't really make the point clear.almost as if you were saying Tung oil was just a higher end linseed. Probably just my misunderstanding.
I highly recommend a mix of linseed oil, pine tar, and pine turpentine. The water resistance comes from the pine tar, the oil and turp are mostly there to aid it in penetration. Also ads a nice "grippy-ness" to the wood without being sticky. You don't want to get the pine tar intended for horse hooves. You want Auson pine tar, which is intended for wood, and comes in light, medium, and dark. Light won't darken pine any more than pure linseed oil, while dark will turn pine almost black. The difference is a lot less pronounced in hardwoods like walnut or birch.
excellent info. DId not know that linseed needed a month to really set. That explains a lot about my tacky-feeling grips on my Open Top!
Oh yeah , it needs to be applied about once a day in very , very thin layers for about a month to get the correct non sticky feel
Always a pleasure learning something new from You guys out there!
Awesome, thank you!
Great video with very useful information. That Alfie shine is new to me...I've never seen it for sale around here.
its mostly sold online i think
Thanks a lot. I love hearing what others do you learn so much .
My pleasure!
Thanks Sir.. you do good. I use tight bond on your recommendation. I am NOT!! a wood worker. I work metal. But unlike the Woods clan, I am a loner. Garrett, I have seen and love your work. Keep on keepin on...
thankyou very much... i am not a metal worker so luckily i have brothers for that
You guys are both great to watch...lots of good info 👍
Keep making content, you guys are doing great!
Thankyou will do
That wax tip is a huge pro tip. I do the same thing. Wood wax on the steel prevents rust.
Also shines up nice too.
I use renaissance wax on my color case guns where I don’t want any color on the finish and I don’t want oil seeping in the wood. I’m going to order that alfy shine.
Here’s a tip for you.
Give Daleys products a try. I use their ship and shore sealer and their teak oil finish. It’s about the same as linseed oil it just absorbs a little faster and fills the grain better.
That said it’s not traditional and if you are trying to stick with tradition well Daleys ain’t it.
well thanks for the tip i have never thought about useing daleys. i will look into it
Nice video.
Thanks!
Thanks for this! Want to eventually build my own rifles and I've been on the lookout for info.
glad you ejoyed it
Great info and tips! I have often wondered what all those slots and holes were used for on gluing benches. 👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
Great stuff, thanks. It's frustrating that finding content on this sort of thing is so difficult to come by, but I suppose that's part of the fun.
I have been using paste wax on rifles for years never has let me down. Keep posting and can't wait for part 2 trapdoor series. thank you
Ty.
Thank you Garrett for that wonderful presentation this morning it gives me a lot of ideas that I will use but I do not know what I will do with my black powder cuz I can't even find any unicorns around here
haha
nice shop tour... I prefer Johnson paste wax... but since it is no longer in production have tried the Trewax... I find it to be a bit stiffer than Johnsons... but guess I'm stuck with it...
lol yeah i dig it out with a spoon
@@Real11BangBang LOL… yep, I’ve considered cutting it with ballistol… but have not tried it yet…
Do yourself a favor and get some good linseed oil. Most of it is made in Sweden. Typical hardware store brands have heavy metal driers. They will also mold and mildew in humid environments. I had used some hardware store linseed oil on an ash shovel handle. Had spores growing all over it. Sanded off all I could, but could never get it out of the open pores. After putting the good stuff on, I had no more problem except from the open pores.
That's where I'm at most of my higher end hardware stores have good Swedish linseed oil and is what I always have used. I have found the pure tung oil to set up better, in my opinion.
I highly recommend a mix of linseed oil, pine tar, and pine turpentine. The water resistance comes from the pine tar, the oil and turp are mostly there to aid it in penetration. The best pine tar and pine turp also come from Sweden. The tar also adds a nice "grippy-ness" to the wood without being sticky.
When will we get to see the new finish on ole char?
when ethan gets back from the army im sure he will be making a video on just that
Hello! I was wondering if you could recommend books on the history, function, types, etc. of gunpowder firearms, generally speaking as early as the French and Indian War up to the end of the U.S Civil War. Much thanks!
well it really depends what your looking for as that covers alot of ground. in genral keven r spiker has several books in that era
@@Real11BangBang Yes I realize the question may have been a little too demanding as far as TH-cam comments go.
I was referring to a type of historical chronological illustrated encyclopedia of the history of firearms in the U.S beginning with the early colonies and into the Civil War. With insightful comparisons and explanations thereof, such as smoothbore vs. flintlock, rifle vs musket (I know the difference of the latter comparison just using an example) etc., etc.
I've looked into the author you've cited briefly, and it seems to be a couple of works on the colonial period of Pennsylvania and Virginia. Which is kind of limited but will fit the bill well enough. Any books on firearms during the war of 1812 and the Civil War? Would be much obliged.
I have a minimal understanding of the weapons throughout the colonial period and early U.S to Civil War and would like to broaden my understanding of the firearms used throughout the early colonial era to Revolutionary and 1812, to Civil War period but have yet to find books on the subject.
They'll typically begin at around the end of the Civil War and quickly get into the Spanish War and WW1 which I have no interest in at the moment. Given your entire channel is dedicated to guns, old guns at that, I thought it best to ask you these questions. Hope this comment wasn't too circular and winded in its read. Thanks!
Johnson Paste Wax for preventing barrel rust on the underside where it sits in the wooden stock? 🤔 I might try that on a modern gun sometime.
it dont why it wouldnt work
@@Real11BangBang my vz. 24 comes to mind. Next time I clean it, I may try this. Thanx.
Hey Garrett, how do you make black powder out of unicorn horns?
i dont know lol We're gonna have to ask jake from everything black powder hehe
What do you think of the once a day for a week , once a week for a month , once a month for a year and once a year for life for blo ?
It works well that is technically the best way to go. I use the wax after one month because it technically seals it up better and gives it a slightly harder finish. It's also historical. In the end, even with the wax, I will still go back once a year and give it a coat of good Swedish boiled linseed oil if that's what I'm using or tongue oil. Definitely on the inside of the gun to make sure that the wood doesn't dry out in the lock mortis
Bang bang you might get upset with me for this might even put a boot a boot in my @$$ and leave the strings hanging out but years ago i re finished my my daisy legacy .22 rifle (yep they made an actual rifle ) it had this painted greenish goldish(an absolute hideous looking color) looking stock so i sanded it down by hand using sand paper and muscle i dont recall what color of stain i used but it was just minwax and then put a coat of minwax polyurethane over it the gun applied with foam brush (no brush strokes that way) and got a great glossy finish that didnt require any sanding thats was probably 20 years ago and the finish still looks like it couldve came from a factory that way
and still looks nice and shiny i can do if you want to see it
haha shame shame. just kidding if it works it works
Tung oil and linseed oil are differant things, linseed is made from Flax seeds, Tung i beleive is a asian ? Nut.
yes. i prefer the toung oil for its thicker viscosity however a good high end sweedish linseed oil workS well to
@Real11BangBang Sorry to seem pendantic it just seemed that way you transitioned from the Walmart "boiled" linseed to the tung ....you didn't really make the point clear.almost as if you were saying Tung oil was just a higher end linseed. Probably just my misunderstanding.