Hi, today I ground to a halt due to rear break overheating and locking onto the disk. At a junction leading up to this I noticed the rear break pedal felt like there was no free play I.e. as though it was already pressed in a little. I allowed it to cool which freed it up and limped home using only the front break. I changed the pads about 3 weeks ago, fluid level is not too high which I know can cause this. Could adjusting the pedal resolve this issue or should I be looking first at the master cylinder or perhaps replacing the piston seals in the caliper.
@@adamhendrix7969 have you managed to figure it out? The master cylinder seems to be working fine. I've had it out since, used the rear break excessively and it's been ok so far this is actually my girlfriend's bike, it's one thing happening to me but I don't want it happening to her as she's a brand new rider.
You could try to bend it back out and away from the case. It will likely break or weaken it to the point that it will break when you least need it to. Recommend buying a new one and keeping the old one as a spare.
My pedal was the same way, touching the clutch cover. removed the pedal tip and used a torch to heat the back side of where the pedal curves around the clutch cover. Then I slid a piece of pipe over it and bent it out about a half of an inch. It’s been working pretty well so far.
I've had the same issue on my KTM EXC. Took it out, pinched it in a vice, heated it up with a lamp and gave a few good hammer hits. Everything's good now and it doesn't look fatigued or cracked or anything, have been using it with no problem for several months already.
Well this isn't a Kawasaki 140. They are different bikes using similar but different systems. Simply revers what you did to unlock the rear brake on your bike. You have adjusted it to the point that it is locked.
thanks for filming with tight camera coverage on what you're doing! Much appreciated!!
You are welcome. Thank you for watching
Good information. Exactly what I was looking for.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, my new Duke had me standing on the rear brake to keep from rolling. I think this will help.
Glad it helped. Thank you for watching and have fun with your new bike.
This was all I needed to know!
Glad it was useful.
This was AMAZING!!!!!
Glad it was helpful.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Hope fully this help my ktm 65 is too tight hope this helps
It worked thanksss
Thx for helping
Thank you for your video. Regard Modesto
Thank you for watching!
Also it can affect your braking performance. I did to my vfr750 and get much better and faster rear brake performance.
Good point.
so easy 🙂 thankyou
Glad you found this helpful.
helped me! you got your sub
Outstanding! Thank you for watching.
I have been having a problem where after riding for a little bit my brakes will lock up. I have bled them multiple times. Any idea what’s wrong?
Hi, today I ground to a halt due to rear break overheating and locking onto the disk. At a junction leading up to this I noticed the rear break pedal felt like there was no free play I.e. as though it was already pressed in a little. I allowed it to cool which freed it up and limped home using only the front break. I changed the pads about 3 weeks ago, fluid level is not too high which I know can cause this. Could adjusting the pedal resolve this issue or should I be looking first at the master cylinder or perhaps replacing the piston seals in the caliper.
Literally the exact same thing is happening to me
@@adamhendrix7969 have you managed to figure it out? The master cylinder seems to be working fine. I've had it out since, used the rear break excessively and it's been ok so far this is actually my girlfriend's bike, it's one thing happening to me but I don't want it happening to her as she's a brand new rider.
Snap same happened to me after I adjusted the rear brake leaving some free play, it then started dragging and overheated :(
Check if the adjument bolt is tight
thanks :)
ive a second hand 250 sxf and the pedal is rubbing on the casing is there a way it can move away or was it maybe bent in a fall
Bent then have to buy a new one
You could try to bend it back out and away from the case. It will likely break or weaken it to the point that it will break when you least need it to. Recommend buying a new one and keeping the old one as a spare.
My pedal was the same way, touching the clutch cover. removed the pedal tip and used a torch to heat the back side of where the pedal curves around the clutch cover. Then I slid a piece of pipe over it and bent it out about a half of an inch. It’s been working pretty well so far.
@@mmaaddict78 bought a new bike last week.its brand new so no problems yet lol
I've had the same issue on my KTM EXC. Took it out, pinched it in a vice, heated it up with a lamp and gave a few good hammer hits. Everything's good now and it doesn't look fatigued or cracked or anything, have been using it with no problem for several months already.
Will just adjusting the pedal height affect the engagement point of the brake?
It only affects the angle at which your toe touches the pedal... not the function of the brake or how it engages.
UPSHIFT ONLINE thanks
The bolt under the pedal is not turning only the nut what do i do?
The pivot bolt?
@@UPSHIFT_ONLINE oh yeah, but I figured it out the previous owner had the spring broken off so that's why jt had alot of play
👍
Thank you!
Why am i watching this? I have a yamaha 🤣
Hahaha... there are things to learn from all bikes.
Im weird. I need my brake pedal higher than the adjustment will allow...
So uhh… I used this video for my… Kawasaki 140 rf and I kinda uhh locked my back wheel and can’t unlock it
Well this isn't a Kawasaki 140. They are different bikes using similar but different systems. Simply revers what you did to unlock the rear brake on your bike. You have adjusted it to the point that it is locked.
@@UPSHIFT_ONLINE ok… I’m kinda embarrassed because I used a ktm video xD thx man it worked I know nothing about bikes 😂🤣