Things I've learned on the Touge: - Seat time is #1 above all mods. A fast driver in a 1.6 miata will smoke any inexperienced driver in an M3 - Good tires can make you go from kinda quick, to godlike fast (but you should always start at 300tw before moving to 200tw) my go to cheap 300tw tire is the Champiro SX2 - Sway bars are the best bang for the buck suspension mod if everything else is stock (Upgrade the rear sway bar first, test it out, and then see if it needs a front bar) - Good brake pads/fluid that don't fade will save your car/life, (assuming your tires can keep up) doubly important on downhill sections - Don't cheap out on bucket seats, fake ones will instantly fall apart in a crash, a quality seat that fits you will boost your confidence in the car by 100% - Find the weak points in your car before upgrading them. Most of the time you don't need to spend money on stuff that won't make you faster - Be safe and don't cross the mustard
I thought a rear sway bar induces oversteer? I don’t really know about sway bars but I’ve been running a racing beat front sway bar on my miata since I bought it and I’ve been considering upgrading the rear too
Good to know, I am currently looking for my first car and just have been studying up about mods (this just happened to be uploaded) and obviously the cars in particular i'm looking for and it's common faults. Sadly I don't have a mountain road super close so it will have to be a weekend thing/ summer break.
A good rule of thumb is if you have a FWD car upgrade the rear sway bar first and if you have a RWD car upgrade the front sway bar first, then decide if you want to upgrade the other one after experimenting
I always tell newbies to go with the triple T's. Tune, Tires, Tint Performance, safety, aesthetics all get a box ticked. Each completely transforming the car and being a great value.
One thing about cheap seats is safety. Most bucket seats from brands like Bride, Sparco, or Recaro will be FIA-certified with extensive testing so you won't be worrying about your seat snapping in half in an accident, which is why people are willing to pay more.
Seat time, seat time, seat time. I like to tell people to drive the car into the ground as stock as possible until your driving capabilities exceed the cars limit. THAT is when you start upgrading. So many stock kids who have tons of seat time can wreck people who have all the works (ie. JRZ Coils, tires, wheels yada yada) Also Road knowledge is hand in hand with seat time.
I love how relatable your videos are! You have a rx7 and r32 and still manage to be down to earth with your content, You gotta be like top 5 in car TH-camrs
about pads: is not necessarily the stopping power (friction) - it's more so the heat that compound can withstand (brake fade). Even stock pads can (or rather should) lock up the wheel.
Yep, how I understand it is that if your brakes can lock the wheels then the brakes are strong enough for those tyres. Of course smaller brakes can't handle as much heat before they start getting fade so that's something to take into consideration. At the end of the day a well maintained factory brake setup is still perfectly usable and should be a bare minimum if someone wants to race seriously.
for me an S tier mod is a short throw shifter. Just because even a cheap one will really improve the feeling of the car and make driving more fun. It's the first thing I would do
I would actually advise against running led headlights, I prefer a dimmer bulb on the mountain just because it allows you to see better if there are cars approaching on a blind turn
IMO adding power (especially with turbos or superchargers) isn’t worth it unless you have the time and money to add supporting mods. For example if you add power you’ll probably want wider wheels/tires and a better tire compound than stock. You might want to upgrade your engine cooling and stuff like that as well. There’s a lot more to it than that, but most cars on a mountain road are great with stock power and some handling mods like tires and suspension (+ the ever-important driver mod). I’m almost never full throttle on a mountain road in my 2nd Gen BRZ which makes roughly 220 at the crank. Extra power is super cool but for touge it won’t be as helpful as wheels, tires, suspension mods, and brakes.
Just a reminder bro that I came to the channel for the car, but stayed as a sub due to you as a person. I will watch anything you put out so whatever you wanna try, go for it. I know I'm not the only one that feels the same
Here's an S tier mod, a proper fast road alignment that you actually maintain. It will change the cars responsiveness in corners. Also, ITB's, short shifter kits and a set of proper floor mounted pedals to replace the factory ones are all good mods in my opinion. Aero in general is a good mod, but it is a hard mod to do as it has to be optimized for a specific speed and it can speed limit a car. Also you can absolutely just slap a turbo on a Honda motor and turn up the boost and it'll keep going. It just has to be an old ass single cam Honda Motor from like 70's and 80's. Those things are as close to indestructible as I've seen. It took me and my friend compound charging his old D block from his EF that he was gonna K swap, we stuffed almost 50 psi of boost in that engine before it exploded. At 40 psi that old ass D16 still kept going like crazy.
Bro i found your channel like 2 days ago I’ve never been addicted to any content creators content like yours bro keep being yourself you’ll go far #balls
Wheels: cheap light wheels exist, find them. Avoid reps unless you're a cheapskate Tires: 300tw is good for the touge, 200tw if you're a little tryhard, going for a reputable brand is enough. don't get ps4s they're booty, and r888 are too expensive Suspension: lowering springs are more than enough especially on slower cars, if you have a dedicated race car get better bushings and polyeurthane parts, from there get more parts to change camber toe caster etc Brakes: Don't cheap out at all on these, go for reputable non GM brands, switching to braided brake lines and stuff like that is good as well, drilled and slotted isn't completely necessary but helps a ton, go for performance/track pads at least Spoilers: literally this doesnt matter, ignore this, aero won't matter until you're pushing 400+hp Headlights: make sure they work, don't get ugly halo ones Exhaust: Less drone and raspiness no matter what you go with, no straight pipe bs that stuff is lame Seats: Don't cheap out, get FIA certified seats only, plus if you plan on doing autocross or track they won't allow you to go on if you have a rep seat, plus in a crash say goodbye to it if its fake Steering Wheel: Don't change this out unless you need to, anyone whos mature will tell you to keep your airbags unless its a non-street legal race car lmao, NEVER go nrg that shits cheap Intake: ... don't even ECU Tune: this doesn't matter for touge unless you're tracking that said car, period TurboCharge: if you're watching this video and all of this is new to you don't even consider one LOL
Suspension is always the key component of any car. Predictability, ride, comfort, confidence can all be attributed to a good set of dependable shocks. Stock shocks aren't usually that bad. Bilsteins and Koni make sporty oem+ replacements and have great bump travel designed for your car. Replace if leaking. Wider tires is NOT always better. Check out tirerack wheel + tire test. A tire needs to be matched to the correct spring rate as well. You are not going to make a full use of a 200tw tire on stock suspension. For most competition racing, people generally use sway bars as a fine tune adjustment rather than the first mod. While you can have less "roll", data can sometimes show your times will be slower. Springs in my opinion, should be the first option used to control roll and pitch of a car. Afterall, sway bars make an independent suspension system less independent. Some people don't even run a rear sway bar for better rotation. This is up to driver preference. Hybrid autox pads like 309, HP+, or DS2500 are pretty good for the touge assuming you aren't pushing the car 10/10 for tens of minutes. Good brake fluid, ATE Typ 200 is cheap and lasts a long time. I'm against bucket seats for the street. A stock airbag with the stock seat is 100% safer on the street. There is tons of data to support this. Harnesses can cause severe whiplash if caught in an accident. Thats why people on track wear a HANs device, or a neckroll.
Hey tsuchi very nice video- I like watching ur stuff because I learn a little bit every time! I've been doing car stuff since 2022 and have been loving every bit of it! Thanks for banger content as always 💯
Unpopular take ; Learn to take ur car to its limits before mods. Only mods I can ever suggest is Brakes / Tires / and maybe suspension. Mods just hide poor driving techniques. Max your skill before upgrading to the next tier of performance.
Hey bro been following you for a while. Your one my favorite TH-camrs. I personally love these style vids!! When I watch your whole car collection I loved it keep these up! Much love brother
Thanks for the upload man! One question about brakes tho, I hear bigger brakes wont stop you faster, but bigger tires will, do you think still getting better quality aftermarket brakes is worth it? Are they really gonna make a diff?
you'll notice the most difference with more aggressive pads e.g. EBC red stuff pads bigger breaks will not overheat as quickly so you can stop faster for longer, but if the rotor contact surface is physically wider then more force over the surface area is applied which is more braking power.
@@nii-san5485 The tires will always be the limitting factor over any brake pads or big brake upgrade. Upgrading brakes and pads will prolong any negative effects from heat.
While 100 treadwear is faster its not much faster then a 200 treadwear but they wear out mad fast. So I stick with 200 treadwear myself. Getting double the mile and giving up 1/4 of a second is a fair trade.
I had a friend who tried ran r888rs and I was running r1rs and the difference was negligible to me, his was showing wires after 4 months and mine went for 8 but my alignment kinda killed them tbh
Yo dude, I need your help if you don’t mind. I’m turning 16 soon and I’ll be getting my permit in November, I have $10,000 available to get a car and I’m wondering what car to get, you got any recommendations?
Hopefully others have put in the comments as well but to clarify, the thing that stops your car quicker is not inherently brakes (granted yes they are a piece of the puzzle), stopping distance is determined by the thing that's in contact with the ground. Meaning your tires. Order of importance imo should always be Tires > Wheels > Brakes. Brakes allow for more repeated stopping performance (unless you have used up everything or if things are brand new). But Tire Compound and Tire Size will really be the determining factor (and wheels will allow you to run the proper tire size to maximize both of the prior as stock Rims in general will be to small width wise 80%-90% of the time).
respectfully i'd take more advice about these things from someone who goes to the track, top advice? don't cheap out on anything. Good quality items do exist for a reasonable price if you just do a bit of research
dude... I turbo'd my d16 civic and it blew up on the touge... IM disappointed. I watched this video for the BEST togue mods and now my parents are PISSED. I feel like u lied to your fans here.... To anyone watching this DO NOT BUILD YOUR CAR WITH TUSCHI ADVICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I think you need to reevaluate your approach to your engine blueprint... First of all, Tsuchi is a TUNING GOD. I wouldn't be surprised if he had collaborated with the likes of Jeff Evans or the guys in RedZone. I reached out to Tsuchi regarding compressor housing selection based off of my needs, and I ended up going with Precision MFS 5431E per his recommendations! He explained that the volumetric efficiency on my P72 B18C1 GSR cylinder head would exceed the flow of a smaller compressor like that of the 4831B (which would be better suited for a smaller displacement, lesser flowing engine like your D16) and would not only start falling flat above ~6000rpm, but would end up generating extra heat! My particular engine setup has a set of 11:1 static compression pistons, so fighting off heat is crucial to prevent pre-detonation and failure of the ringlands (common on B series engines when boost is introduced, as they are pretty weak from the factory) This video may not have helped you, but don't be afraid to reach out to Tsuchi himself about getting your build clean and correct for hella touge vibes!
@TsuchiFD Sorry to bother you, bro, but I really am concerned for this guy who says he blew up his D16 on the touge because of your advice. Is there any way you could make it right? Maybe you could hook him up with some tuning advice? He says he has a D16, but doesn't specify if it's an A6, Z6, Y7/Y8, etc... I'm not very well versed with building cars. I think this dude may need some advice with touge build specs like injector sizing, final drive ratio, 2618 vs. 4032 piston alloy, reading compressor maps, etc. Keep up the good work!
me and homie talking about what kind of mods we wanna get for our first car in the future: eric: hey im gonna talk about car mods me : "nice timing bro"
Japanese gf mod would go crazy
gf mod too hard
@@medishojo only mod that can leave on their own too😢
@@metropcs6788 tell that to erics gtr trans 😭
Too expensive 🥲
Actually lowers performance with the added weight
Things I've learned on the Touge:
- Seat time is #1 above all mods. A fast driver in a 1.6 miata will smoke any inexperienced driver in an M3
- Good tires can make you go from kinda quick, to godlike fast (but you should always start at 300tw before moving to 200tw) my go to cheap 300tw tire is the Champiro SX2
- Sway bars are the best bang for the buck suspension mod if everything else is stock (Upgrade the rear sway bar first, test it out, and then see if it needs a front bar)
- Good brake pads/fluid that don't fade will save your car/life, (assuming your tires can keep up) doubly important on downhill sections
- Don't cheap out on bucket seats, fake ones will instantly fall apart in a crash, a quality seat that fits you will boost your confidence in the car by 100%
- Find the weak points in your car before upgrading them. Most of the time you don't need to spend money on stuff that won't make you faster
- Be safe and don't cross the mustard
I thought a rear sway bar induces oversteer? I don’t really know about sway bars but I’ve been running a racing beat front sway bar on my miata since I bought it and I’ve been considering upgrading the rear too
Good to know, I am currently looking for my first car and just have been studying up about mods (this just happened to be uploaded) and obviously the cars in particular i'm looking for and it's common faults. Sadly I don't have a mountain road super close so it will have to be a weekend thing/ summer break.
A good rule of thumb is if you have a FWD car upgrade the rear sway bar first and if you have a RWD car upgrade the front sway bar first, then decide if you want to upgrade the other one after experimenting
best tips
and keep those damn high beams on so other drivers see you coming around corners
I always tell newbies to go with the triple T's.
Tune, Tires, Tint
Performance, safety, aesthetics all get a box ticked. Each completely transforming the car and being a great value.
One thing about cheap seats is safety. Most bucket seats from brands like Bride, Sparco, or Recaro will be FIA-certified with extensive testing so you won't be worrying about your seat snapping in half in an accident, which is why people are willing to pay more.
Watching some donut media ayyyyy
people pay more for the brand and looks
@@cameronscotty3671no they pay more because they're actually safe, put on some $100 nrg seats and see where you end up
Seat time, seat time, seat time.
I like to tell people to drive the car into the ground as stock as possible until your driving capabilities exceed the cars limit. THAT is when you start upgrading.
So many stock kids who have tons of seat time can wreck people who have all the works (ie. JRZ Coils, tires, wheels yada yada)
Also Road knowledge is hand in hand with seat time.
I love how relatable your videos are! You have a rx7 and r32 and still manage to be down to earth with your content, You gotta be like top 5 in car TH-camrs
Do you love Griffin or that "stop the cap" clip more?
about pads: is not necessarily the stopping power (friction) - it's more so the heat that compound can withstand (brake fade). Even stock pads can (or rather should) lock up the wheel.
yeah, most people dont realize bbks dont stop cars faster
Yeah the limitting factor is the tires, not the brake pads, rotors or anything else.
Yep, how I understand it is that if your brakes can lock the wheels then the brakes are strong enough for those tyres. Of course smaller brakes can't handle as much heat before they start getting fade so that's something to take into consideration. At the end of the day a well maintained factory brake setup is still perfectly usable and should be a bare minimum if someone wants to race seriously.
for me an S tier mod is a short throw shifter. Just because even a cheap one will really improve the feeling of the car and make driving more fun. It's the first thing I would do
I would actually advise against running led headlights, I prefer a dimmer bulb on the mountain just because it allows you to see better if there are cars approaching on a blind turn
I'd sad keep a dimmer headlight but run a led fog light pointed lower at the road
that's how I had my legacy set up. even though I bought all LED I had problems. So I just had fog LED and I liked the set-up @@Kielko
IMO adding power (especially with turbos or superchargers) isn’t worth it unless you have the time and money to add supporting mods. For example if you add power you’ll probably want wider wheels/tires and a better tire compound than stock. You might want to upgrade your engine cooling and stuff like that as well. There’s a lot more to it than that, but most cars on a mountain road are great with stock power and some handling mods like tires and suspension (+ the ever-important driver mod). I’m almost never full throttle on a mountain road in my 2nd Gen BRZ which makes roughly 220 at the crank. Extra power is super cool but for touge it won’t be as helpful as wheels, tires, suspension mods, and brakes.
Just a reminder bro that I came to the channel for the car, but stayed as a sub due to you as a person. I will watch anything you put out so whatever you wanna try, go for it. I know I'm not the only one that feels the same
Here's an S tier mod, a proper fast road alignment that you actually maintain. It will change the cars responsiveness in corners. Also, ITB's, short shifter kits and a set of proper floor mounted pedals to replace the factory ones are all good mods in my opinion. Aero in general is a good mod, but it is a hard mod to do as it has to be optimized for a specific speed and it can speed limit a car.
Also you can absolutely just slap a turbo on a Honda motor and turn up the boost and it'll keep going. It just has to be an old ass single cam Honda Motor from like 70's and 80's. Those things are as close to indestructible as I've seen. It took me and my friend compound charging his old D block from his EF that he was gonna K swap, we stuffed almost 50 psi of boost in that engine before it exploded. At 40 psi that old ass D16 still kept going like crazy.
exactly, its a very technical thing at most
As a fellow owner of a vehicle held together with zip ties. I must be real with you... I don't think either of us are qualified to make this video.
Bro i found your channel like 2 days ago I’ve never been addicted to any content creators content like yours bro keep being yourself you’ll go far #balls
Wheels: cheap light wheels exist, find them. Avoid reps unless you're a cheapskate
Tires: 300tw is good for the touge, 200tw if you're a little tryhard, going for a reputable brand is enough. don't get ps4s they're booty, and r888 are too expensive
Suspension: lowering springs are more than enough especially on slower cars, if you have a dedicated race car get better bushings and polyeurthane parts, from there get more parts to change camber toe caster etc
Brakes: Don't cheap out at all on these, go for reputable non GM brands, switching to braided brake lines and stuff like that is good as well, drilled and slotted isn't completely necessary but helps a ton, go for performance/track pads at least
Spoilers: literally this doesnt matter, ignore this, aero won't matter until you're pushing 400+hp
Headlights: make sure they work, don't get ugly halo ones
Exhaust: Less drone and raspiness no matter what you go with, no straight pipe bs that stuff is lame
Seats: Don't cheap out, get FIA certified seats only, plus if you plan on doing autocross or track they won't allow you to go on if you have a rep seat, plus in a crash say goodbye to it if its fake
Steering Wheel: Don't change this out unless you need to, anyone whos mature will tell you to keep your airbags unless its a non-street legal race car lmao, NEVER go nrg that shits cheap
Intake: ... don't even
ECU Tune: this doesn't matter for touge unless you're tracking that said car, period
TurboCharge: if you're watching this video and all of this is new to you don't even consider one LOL
Loving the quality and the recent video ideas, Keep it up man !
Suspension is always the key component of any car. Predictability, ride, comfort, confidence can all be attributed to a good set of dependable shocks. Stock shocks aren't usually that bad. Bilsteins and Koni make sporty oem+ replacements and have great bump travel designed for your car. Replace if leaking.
Wider tires is NOT always better. Check out tirerack wheel + tire test. A tire needs to be matched to the correct spring rate as well. You are not going to make a full use of a 200tw tire on stock suspension.
For most competition racing, people generally use sway bars as a fine tune adjustment rather than the first mod. While you can have less "roll", data can sometimes show your times will be slower. Springs in my opinion, should be the first option used to control roll and pitch of a car. Afterall, sway bars make an independent suspension system less independent. Some people don't even run a rear sway bar for better rotation. This is up to driver preference.
Hybrid autox pads like 309, HP+, or DS2500 are pretty good for the touge assuming you aren't pushing the car 10/10 for tens of minutes. Good brake fluid, ATE Typ 200 is cheap and lasts a long time.
I'm against bucket seats for the street. A stock airbag with the stock seat is 100% safer on the street. There is tons of data to support this. Harnesses can cause severe whiplash if caught in an accident. Thats why people on track wear a HANs device, or a neckroll.
Tsuchi uploaded, WE MOVEEEEEE
The tier lists are cool, will always be down for em
Hey tsuchi very nice video- I like watching ur stuff because I learn a little bit every time! I've been doing car stuff since 2022 and have been loving every bit of it! Thanks for banger content as always 💯
Unpopular take ;
Learn to take ur car to its limits before mods.
Only mods I can ever suggest is
Brakes / Tires / and maybe suspension.
Mods just hide poor driving techniques.
Max your skill before upgrading to the next tier of performance.
tsuchi with the frequent uploads🔥🔥
Hey bro been following you for a while. Your one my favorite TH-camrs. I personally love these style vids!! When I watch your whole car collection I loved it keep these up! Much love brother
best mod for touge is driver mod. dont think youre takumi and be dumb. take things slow and dont let people peer pressure u
gf mod too hard to get 😔
The return on investment is pretty bad too
Weight trade off ain’t worth it
@@carlweeks2399 LMAO YALL RANCID
There's some pretty cheap ones
Too difficult for me to install in my life
Hashiriya merch adds +10 hp no tune needed
the “she loved me” mod best performance for free
Love yur normal videos, but for some reason, the bedroom ones slap
its a good day when tsuchi uploads
Video quality through the roof!!
You should include sway bars
i love you
Gay😊
@@RayanM50B25not like that bruh
the handwork on 4:54 s immaculate
lightweight flywheels go crazy though
i love these types of videos so much
You forgot the self-detonation mod🔥that ones has saved me so many times… in gta😅
Keep in mind wide wheels on an underpowered car can decrease straight line performance. You want to balance grip and power
I think It's fine with him saying works as a brand a lot only because he's running work vs kf rims which are clean asf
idk how but I predicted almost every tier that you put the mods in
good cheap wheels are konig. Light weight performance wheel.
“I’m only human after all” “I’m only human I make mistakes”
Thanks for the upload man! One question about brakes tho, I hear bigger brakes wont stop you faster, but bigger tires will, do you think still getting better quality aftermarket brakes is worth it? Are they really gonna make a diff?
you'll notice the most difference with more aggressive pads e.g. EBC red stuff pads
bigger breaks will not overheat as quickly so you can stop faster for longer, but if the rotor contact surface is physically wider then more force over the surface area is applied which is more braking power.
@@nii-san5485 The tires will always be the limitting factor over any brake pads or big brake upgrade. Upgrading brakes and pads will prolong any negative effects from heat.
@@nii-san5485 thanks man!
While 100 treadwear is faster its not much faster then a 200 treadwear but they wear out mad fast. So I stick with 200 treadwear myself. Getting double the mile and giving up 1/4 of a second is a fair trade.
I had a friend who tried ran r888rs and I was running r1rs and the difference was negligible to me, his was showing wires after 4 months and mine went for 8 but my alignment kinda killed them tbh
@@Ghost_mx5 yeah I had rt660 and burned thru a set in a weekend at TOTD. ON RT615K I can get 2-3 weekends.
100tw tires are slower than the current super 200tw tires on track. They can tolerate the heat a bit better but most of them are old and outdated.
bigger brakes dont stop car faster, they just more resistant to brake fade. Unless your cars brakes can’t engage abs which i doubt ever happens
Keep it up Love your Videos Bro. Hope you get your R32 back asap❤
intake is an f tier mod 5% of people get a tune after they do it so all it does is make it sound different. usually the car runs worse.
Rear diffuser, Roll Cage, Pedals, short shifter, weight reduction, awd conversion - another video maybe?
these are very entertaining!
man.. love the tier list, but i think all the people watching know what brakes do and how they work, we can skip the 3 minute explanation :D
You dont need more then 200-300hp for touge. All making more power does is make it less reliable.
banger tier list
i love these tier lists
thanks im gonna go tune my car and blow up the ecu and my car
my 04 wrx wheels weigh 16.5lbs and look great hehe and some sticky hankook ventus evo
how do you upgrade a motor to handle supercharger/turbocharger
All I can say is more tier lists videos or other creative stuff you may be contemplating ！！！！
"Tires are pretty important."
*_50$ well spent_*
😂🤣
Enkei Rajin is a a cheap forged wheel plus a great brand just bought some to run on my e46
they are good but they are flow formed not forged, bet they look great on e46!
100% not forged
Yo dude, I need your help if you don’t mind. I’m turning 16 soon and I’ll be getting my permit in November, I have $10,000 available to get a car and I’m wondering what car to get, you got any recommendations?
Civic SI for 5-6k then maintenance for 1.5k Tein coilovers good performance summer tires 800$ brakes for 5-600$
dont mind me, just watching this video day after i blew my cars motor
Going up in tire size doesnt equal more performance. A lightweight car like a eg hatch doesnt need more then a 205/50.
Touge isn't time attack.
Dude you've got to normalize your tier list. Don't just put everything in A and S
That said nice video
Hopefully others have put in the comments as well but to clarify, the thing that stops your car quicker is not inherently brakes (granted yes they are a piece of the puzzle), stopping distance is determined by the thing that's in contact with the ground. Meaning your tires. Order of importance imo should always be Tires > Wheels > Brakes. Brakes allow for more repeated stopping performance (unless you have used up everything or if things are brand new). But Tire Compound and Tire Size will really be the determining factor (and wheels will allow you to run the proper tire size to maximize both of the prior as stock Rims in general will be to small width wise 80%-90% of the time).
RS Watanabe 😎
Best touge mod is definitely ITBs. Your opponent can't race if his entire brain has been sucked into your engine.
I never tuned a car how do you do it
tsuchi’s cheeks on the next post mod would be lit
Could i turbo my corolla? It has a 4-Afe and there’s an available turbo kit for it lmao
yea
Federal 595 tires are great
The best mod you can get is a driver mod
Restock on the jackets brody
I'M SLAPPING A CENTRIFUGAL ON STOCK INTERNALS I'LL TELL YOU HOW IT GOES
When did Keisuke dye there hair?
IM GONNA PUT A FUCKIN 7270 ON MY B18A1
respectfully i'd take more advice about these things from someone who goes to the track, top advice? don't cheap out on anything. Good quality items do exist for a reasonable price if you just do a bit of research
No Drivetrain Love? No LSD?
but Tsuchiiiii the D16Y8 CAN hit 500hp with a turbo
you forgot the driver mod
Rims 👀
17:49 Do D16s go to D series heaven when they die?
no all single cams go to purgatory
🥲
dude... I turbo'd my d16 civic and it blew up on the touge... IM disappointed. I watched this video for the BEST togue mods and now my parents are PISSED. I feel like u lied to your fans here.... To anyone watching this DO NOT BUILD YOUR CAR WITH TUSCHI ADVICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I think you need to reevaluate your approach to your engine blueprint... First of all, Tsuchi is a TUNING GOD. I wouldn't be surprised if he had collaborated with the likes of Jeff Evans or the guys in RedZone. I reached out to Tsuchi regarding compressor housing selection based off of my needs, and I ended up going with Precision MFS 5431E per his recommendations! He explained that the volumetric efficiency on my P72 B18C1 GSR cylinder head would exceed the flow of a smaller compressor like that of the 4831B (which would be better suited for a smaller displacement, lesser flowing engine like your D16) and would not only start falling flat above ~6000rpm, but would end up generating extra heat! My particular engine setup has a set of 11:1 static compression pistons, so fighting off heat is crucial to prevent pre-detonation and failure of the ringlands (common on B series engines when boost is introduced, as they are pretty weak from the factory) This video may not have helped you, but don't be afraid to reach out to Tsuchi himself about getting your build clean and correct for hella touge vibes!
@TsuchiFD Sorry to bother you, bro, but I really am concerned for this guy who says he blew up his D16 on the touge because of your advice. Is there any way you could make it right? Maybe you could hook him up with some tuning advice? He says he has a D16, but doesn't specify if it's an A6, Z6, Y7/Y8, etc... I'm not very well versed with building cars. I think this dude may need some advice with touge build specs like injector sizing, final drive ratio, 2618 vs. 4032 piston alloy, reading compressor maps, etc. Keep up the good work!
@@kilodc2839 bruh what are you talking about💀💀 bro think im building a nuclear reactor this is just a tuned civic💀💀💀💀💀💀
why no griffin
The S in S - Tier is STOP THE CAP
gutting the interior mod?🥴
48 like lets goooooooo
me and homie talking about what kind of mods we wanna get for our first car in the future:
eric: hey im gonna talk about car mods
me : "nice timing bro"
Dont buy stupid usless parts and save money to buy reputable brand good parts
kiss me tsuchi
OHHHHHH
Driver mod gotta be S tier