Volvo S60 V70 cabin blower fan removal 2001-2009
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ม.ค. 2019
- See 1st comment about Cabin 'Afterblow' after parking the car
Sites for Parts Fcpeuro.com Ipdusa.com Eeuroparts.com
Forums www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for... (US)
www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumd... (UK)
forums.swedespeed.com/forumdis...) (US) - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thanks for the help, man! I really appreciate that you took the time to make this. It helped me out a lot.
Thank you too. Viewers feedback is most rewarding
Thanks for the video.
My fan was squizing at corners when at speed level 3.
Removed it yesterday and sprayed it over with teflon oil. Stayed over night, blown through with pressured air and now works flawlesly.
My dealer did not have any new for replacement, and buying a used one...better to fix my own. And it worked!
👍👍
very well done - in the middle of this now, thanks for taking the time to share
👍👍
Very underrated youtube channel !!!! still actual video thanks !!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
👍👍
The truth is the long plastic part between the windscreen and the wiper panel does a pretty good job stopping the water from gettin into the cabin.
many years later....had to remove motor (twice) as something in the whole CCM setup isn't working - no fan. Been working my way through fuses, CCM, fan, fan controller resistor, air quality sensor...one thing to note is I have found it is possible to replace the air sensor when you have the fan out. This is worth doing because you should really use a wiper arm puller to remove the wiper arms to get to the sensor from above. If only changing the sensor, sure, this is way less hassle than removing the fan motor. Hella make an air quality sensor for at least half the Volvo stamped one. IMO it is worth replacing this sensor when fan is out because it sometimes messes with the CCM logic. Also replace the CCM bulbs while out, and CAREFULLY clean the cabin air temperature sensor and fan - do not break the wire. If you do, it is possible to obtain correct wire and solder a new one in (search TH-cam), but avoid snapping in first place! I did resolder all the fan speed joints on the rear too. They will dry/break, so you might as well do that too while the whole dash is out!
Great video thanks have watched a few of them seems like I’m always working on my Volvo lol 😂
Thanks, it was very helpful
Thanks bro helped a lot
My broken damper 'fix' th-cam.com/video/KrfMu72sH9k/w-d-xo.html
Blower 'Afterblow' info. Some owners complained about the cabin blower running long time after shutting the engine off and draining the battery. The blower is set to spin for a while with the engine off after using the A/C (so the A/C evaporator doesn't get a mushy smell), but if it spins for really long time and drains the battery, then the controller/resistor could be the culprit (a faulty resistor may also blow the fuse). See the text below. Resistor is same on S60 V70 XC90
NO: 87-53
DATE: October 5 2007
MODEL / YEAR S60 2001 -
S80 1999 - 2006
V70, XC70 2001 - 2007
XC90 2003 -
SUBJECT: Air Conditioning System Odor / Afterblow Function
REFERENCE: VIDA
This TNN superseded the previous 87-53, dated November 21, 2005. The changes
include: updates to the 1999 - 2004 method and added new method for 2005 and later.
Please update your files.
DESCRIPTION:
There may be cases of odor from climate system vents on the vehicles listed above. Ensure
the odor is not from some other source and all other A/C system checks have been
completed. If necessary the Afterblow function can be activated to dry out the ventilation
system and evaporator. There are two ways to activate the Afterblow function depending on
the Model Year (MY). For MY's 2005 and later see page 2 for MY's 1999 - 2004 see page 3.
NOTE: Up through 2002 Afterblow was activated from the factory, 2003 and later Afterblow
will be Retailer activated only.
SERVICE:
In all cases basic fault tracing needs to be performed prior to the afterblow activation. Once
this has been completed see the appropriate instructions for Afterblow activation.
Check / Verify that:
- There are no refrigerant leakages (not PAG oil causing the odor).
- AC drain is not clogged - drains sufficiently i.e. no water standing in the climate box.
- No water standing underneath the floor carpets.
- Cabin air filter inspected / verify it's been replaced according to the maintenance schedule.
- Battery is in good condition.
If all the above has been checked and confirmed that they are not the cause of the odor then
the Afterblow function should be activated to minimize the risk of odor.
NOTE: MY 2005 and later it is only necessary to activate / deactivate Afterblow one time per
vehicle. If ANY new software is downloaded the Afterblow function will stay activated.
Tech-Net Notes
“Fixed Right - First Time”
Volvo Technicians, Service and Parts Managers
Copyright ©2007 Volvo Cars of North America, LLC. All rights reserved. Page 2 of 3
MY 2005 and later:
MATERIAL for 2005 and later:
Description Quantity Part Number
Activate afterblow software 1 30782577
Deactivate afterblow software (if needed to turn off) 1 30782664
Activation / Deactivation through VIDA:
- Software Tab
- Software product
- Select 30782577 (or 30782664 to deactivate if needed). Enter part number if not listed
- Download software
Read - Out the status "active / not active" in VIDA:
- Diagnostics
- Vehicle communication
- CCM / Advanced
- After - run passenger control status (wording may change in future VIDA updates.)
Note: Active or Not-Activated
When certain criteria are met the interior fan will start to blow 50 minutes after the car has
gone into the sleep mode. The fan will blow for 15 minutes at half speed with the air
directed to the dashboard air outlets.
Make sure the customer is informed of this new function.
ACTIVATION CRITERIA:
Battery voltage greater than 11.9 V
Ambient temp greater than 75°F (24°C) when engine is turned off.
Runs only one time every 20 hrs.
MY's 1999 - 2004:
Activation and Read - Out the status "active / passive" in VIDA:
- Diagnostics
- Vehicle communication
- CCM / Advanced
- Programming the Climate Control Module (CCM).
When certain criteria are met the interior fan will start to blow 50 minutes after the car has
gone into the sleep mode. The fan will blow for 7 minutes at full speed with the air directed
to the dashboard air outlets.
Make sure the customer is informed of this new function.
Copyright ©2007 Volvo Cars of North America, LLC. All rights reserved. Page 3 of 3
ACTIVATION CRITERIA:
A/C compressor has been engaged for more than 4 minutes (continuously) out of the last 11
minutes before engine was turned off.
Ambient temp app 82°F (28°C) and A/C compressor running for more than 50% during a 10
second period
Very good video. Always wondered. Just bought a dash mat to quote mine a little
Those dash mats are very good, for once they cut the windshield glare, and can also cut the heat radiating from the dash in sunny summer days - I put some Mylar material underneath it
Good video, Thanks. For the 5 T25 screws, you can use these from Autozone, Titan 31 piece Bit & Driver set #16068 for the 4 easy ones, for the back one use the T25 from the kit listed and put that in a Titan Micro Bit Driver set #11205.
Also fold an old blanket over a few times for padding and lay it on the lower door frame so you can lay on your back and look up.
Thanks for sharing, mine do the same thing
I use a torx socket with my 3/8 ratchet. If you only have a small torx tip, like those that fit on a screw driver, can use an adjustable pliers, or a 3/8" regular socket size 1/4" imperial (so the 1/4" size socket from a 3/8" set or even from a 1/4" set of you have that smaller ratchet), the torx tip fits inside with a small piece of paper to secure it.
Thank you
Thank you and well done.
Thanks!
Thank you!!!!
cheers
Genuis GUY THANK
Bro, do you know where i can get replacements for the 4 pin connectors?
Great video, but at 5:24 Why all the trouble with the glovebox "flaps" and damper if you´re gonna pull the frame for the glovebox (and thereby the glovebox itself) out anyway ?
Hi, you notice at about 2:40 there's several screws along the glove box frame, I'm not sure if we can access the lower ones without flipping the box down - haven't tried it. Again, careful with those two tabs not to break them
Another great video Peppermint - thanks!! Just wondering - do you really need to pull the carpet back? I need to do this on a 2005 XC90 so wondering if the underneath looks the same, same general process?
That is a good question, I feel like the XC90 is more generous space wise, so hopefully the process will be easier. The screw location seems quite similar, I would expect the job to be on the same level. The real trick is to use a socket torx bit for the 1-2 rear screws. Pulling the carpet (and cutting the soundproof material) on the S60 was quite helpful and really not hard to do.
This job here in the UK is horrendous, I had to cut away some of the sound insulation on the foot well wall to get just enough space to fit back in. After I reconnected the power plugs it failed to work. After I sprayed contact electrical cleaner on the inside of the plugs did the motor start up. Absolutely miserable job but thanks for guidance.
Thanks for the feedback. RHD cars are indeed often times a misery to work on some parts. Same goes for replacing the brake servo or the heater core among other things
@@Peppermint1 I'm scared for life, took me 3 hours plus to get it done. Trying to get the rear two screws off the blower unit finished me. All done now :)
Great video! I managed to break the retainer tabs on the damper when removing it from the mating ball connector.
What is the fix you mentioned to do a permanent repair to that end of the damper?
th-cam.com/video/KrfMu72sH9k/w-d-xo.html
@@Peppermint1 Wow! Never really expected to get a reply since the vid is a few years old.
I thought that if someone, in this case you, figured out how to do an impromptu fix on a broken glovebox door damper, then I should give it a try especially didn't want to hand it off to the wife in that condition.
After breaking off the remaining tabs in the receiver/socket, I used a piece of flexible, white, reinforced (braided) water hose which I had on hand. The OD (< 5/8”) fit snugly into the socket-(hose ID 3/8"). Sliced off a small ring-size section of hose, a tad longer than the depth of the socket. Once placed into the socket, I used a retractable utility knife to form a bevel on the inside of the hose end that would accept the mating ball under the dash. The bevel helps the socket 'find' the ball.
It works fine, takes effort to remove from the ball, but don't know how long it'll last .
Since it's the wife's car and want to avoid the possibility of the door dropping unexpectedly, I will order a new damper.
Thank you for your help with the blower replacement (took me about 4 hours- I’m old :-) which would not have been a success without your detailed video and excellent narrative.
I did a brief scan of your TH-cam channel and will likely return, looking for more bits of wisdom and talent that seem to come naturally to you.
You da man, Peppermint!
Take care,
Roger
Hello, does this procedure apply to the 2009 Volvo C30?
Does this apply to the s80 as well
Hello man, last summer i pull out my blower to clean it and put some oil for lubrication s802003. And then in winter i notic that it blow very very cold air!! I dont know what happen and why it colder now than before cleaing.i toke out also the regulater wich attach to it and put it back and im sure not broke it , even i dont know what his job ?? But as i tild u now it take tiiiime to hive me warm air and it blow very cold air.
Hi Ali, working on the blower itself does not affect the cabin temperature in winter time. Last winter the hot air was working fine? There a few reasons when there is no hot air inside the cabin all of a sudden. Was the coolant recently changed? Thermostat? Did you happen to disconnect the car battery recently?
Coolant not touched , thermostat even no, battery disconect yes many 2-3 times thats right ?? How its effectthe cabin temperature and what i ahould do now. Thax man.
@@haidar.al-subaei1934 I can't say for sure - so keep it mind I may not be right, but there is a chance the small temperature sensor inside the climate module has failed. This happens sometimes when connecting the car battery see these two videos where it explains. If you replace the whole climate module, keep the battery disconnected because you will get an SRS message. You can put a used module from a car the same year
th-cam.com/video/jdW0t2FJCfA/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/riC13zbjdgg/w-d-xo.html
if my blower is noisy only in the cold can I grease it up or does it need changing?
These start by 'squeaking' in cold mornings, there are two bushing type bearings, the one under the blade part gets rusted and start seize. The thing is, the blade is impossible to remove (stuck by rust, pulling on it will damage the motor), and the bearing is not accessible. The small bush bearing needs removed and cleaned by hand. I recommend a new blower altogether or a used one from places like Florida with less rust (look on Ebay for one without rust in the center of the blades), good to keep the regulator for spare
I have a red s60! Why are they rare?
It’s it the Same process for the Volvo S40 2008 ?
Hi Zack, I'm not aware, the S60 and S40 are quite different inside
Thanks brother.
So, that plastic piece that he broke. After unlocking with coin, the piece will slide to the left. DO NOT PULL STRAIGHT OUT! Just slide it to the left.
Very good point. I was in a rush but indeed, we rotate with a coin on the small tab at the left side behind the seat, then slightly lift that end and slide the whole plastic trim backwards about 1inch to unhook it
Bro You have voice Like Borat 🤘🏻
a t25 and a 10mm will take 90% of the car apart
Is it necessary to remove the glovebox?
When you remove the lower grey cover (one with two torx screw), you see the bottom of the glove box, the plastic part with the light on it: it covers by about 2inches the blower unit. Because of this I'm not sure you can extract the blower with the glove box in place - the blower already comes out quite difficult even with the glove box removed.
Peppermint - is it necessary to disconnect the battery prior to install?
@@steadisteve No, not for this repair.
Peppermint - last question... any tips on breaking the 5th screw/tab.... by force? I can’t even see the 5th one.... I stopped before taking out the 4th screw ...
@@steadisteve Oh, no, try not to break the tab because then the fan will no longer seal from water (it gets full with water when it rains, which has a hose to drain), and will leak inside the car. I used a torx socket with the wrench -shown at 9:10, you can also use a small torx tip (like the ones sold with a screwdriver) inserted on a small size socket (don't remember the size). You can also use a T25 tip secured with a locking pliers or an adjustable pliers. These are slim enough to reach the 5th torx screw in the back - also notice how I ripped a piece of that foam off the floor under the 5th screw, gives better access. Don't forget to place back all 5 screws and tighten them all the way so as to seal the bottom of the blower.
Давай, ломай на хер всё там!