Reminded me about Marisa Tomei in the court scene of "My Cousin Vinny" movie: "No, there's moah!" 😄 th-cam.com/video/W7YoxrKa4f0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mhSl2kyszVh_sIL9
@@Ambrose4kthat’s because Subaru people and Audi people aren’t very different. A lot of them are flocking to Hyundai N cars now. Which is good. Bye 😂😂😂
Thank you, Wizard and Mrs. Sad, I used to work for Audi/Porsche (1995-2005) and owed a '96 A6 (2.8L) that went 15 years 350k with regular maint (timing belt/water pump every 100k). You would think if you are spending an extra $10k+ you are getting your money's worth - NOPE.
What people don't understand, even Toyota is doing this now, buy yourself a 2ZR-FAE CVT Non-hybrid Corolla from 2021 and you'll know what I mean, Toyota has completely flushed themselves down the toilet since they got their reputation as being quality
You are if you go LEXUS. Trust. I've owned 8 in a row and they ALL have been excellent and trouble free. I've taken ever ES I've owned from 2004 to my 2023 to over 150k miles and have had zero problems. I've also never needed brakes once! Unreal! Oil changes filter changes and plugs. That's it.
@@gabevillarreal4779 8 cars in 19 years, oh boy! So each car averaged 2 years? No wonder you only needed to do oil changes, tires, and filters, you didnt own them long enough to. The average person owns a vehicle for 5 years or longer!
If you work on VAG vehicles a lot, you should get a VCDS to diagnose them. Mine saved my engine (2.0 TFSI) when it detected valve timing problems, indicating a stretched timing chain.
My son is an Audi enthusiast. He owns a 2015 Q7 TDI Prestige that (fortunately) was under an Audi Extended warranty when the fuel system went. Three weeks (mostly waiting for parts) and an almost $7K bill covered by Audi, it's back on the road for just over a year since and it's flawless. He also owns a 2008 Audi A4 Avant wagon that he has put $4-5K into over the past few years for repairs and maintenance. It's doing just fine for now. He says he'll be replacing it in a few years or so. Nice video M&M Wizard!
He's military and his wife is going to flight school under his GI Bill and not working. Both cars are paid off so it's cheaper right now to keep them both. @@darrellsaunders4267
Next to go is the timing chain. Better hope that the engine survives all the disruption in valve operation with the timing chain stretch or the failure of the plastic guides. Another $3-4K bill.
Time to get rid of it, 10 year/120,000 warranty must be close to up that the fixed TDIs got. He might not be at the mileage but I'll bet the in service date was mid/late 2014. I traded mine at 119,xxx.
I heard newer bmws 2018 and up with the B58 and B57 and S55 engines are really dependable and reliable with lower maintenance costs then some of the older bmws but we will see if that’s still the case in the coming years but from what I heard from other owners is that those models are reliable
When governments start legislating stricter CAFE standards is when you really see quality go down. There’s only so much mpg you can get out of an internal combustion engine so the only solution is to throw on a turbo, give it direct injection and lighten the overall weight, hence, plastic parts. Very few cars built today are built without these issues.
@@lucienswift447 it’s funny, my wife’s old Honda crx from 1984 got 45mpg. It was a complete dog on acceleration but for a road trip it was great. I’m really surprised someone hasn’t just sat down and engineered a reliable 75mpg engine for people that don’t want to drive hellcats.
Use of plastic parts is not the issue. Using cheap poor quality 'breaky-breaky' plastic parts is the real issue - especially so - when fitted in regions of the motor car that are under high cyclic (hot-cold) temperatures. From my experience, plastics used by Toyota/Lexus are far more robust than ones used by VW/AUDI, BMW and Mercedes. There seems to be (sadly) a 'race-to-the-bottom' by the German vehicle OEMs - with BMW currently leading the pack.
Plastic is also allows for finer shapes that helps with flow. It‘s honestly really impressive how efficient theese engines are but as usual the More Complicated the more issues arise
For me, the funniest part of the big grills is that most of the time there is a small hole in the middle of a sea of black plastic. I see the cops driving Explorers in town and the hole for the radiator is less than 25% of the black space where the grill is.
No no they need the big grill to get the most air circulation they can to keep all that plastic as cool as they can so it doesn't get brittle and crack & brake an fall apart...😂@@christian6381
new Fords have the Active Grille Shutter, the reason you see that small hole is there are only a few flaps open on the grille since the car is fine with that, it will open up more when there's more heat to dissipate. It's good to keep the gas engine warm during winter in hybrid vehicles too
C.W. My wife had this exact same car, down to the color. 2.0 Turbo. I had her sell it once it hit 60k. Thanks to you and your experience I’m much wiser with my car knowledge. Keep up the great videos and work
They aren’t even that bad. Ppl just wait to fix stuff till it’s too late. The turbo failure is unacceptable, but the water pump and intake valves are supposed to be done every 50k. Extremely common issues. If ppl looked on forums they’d save lots of money and time.
@@epicswirl they aren’t great I’ll admit. But everyone acts like they are time bombs and money pits. The Ea888.3 has water pump failures but it’s not too bad overall for example. Turbo failure are uncommon
@@ihatefsi The 2.0t is a bomb 😭. Oil consumption nightmare. My new S5 has the 3.0T it’s doing well but I’m hoping when it hits 40-50k it’ll still run great lol. Turbo failure is uncommon but the water pump should be covered under recall anyway for 2013-2016.
Can you show us the intake carbon cleaning process? Assuming you have a walnut blaster it would be cool to see what machine you use and also how you guys clean the manifolds!
Which engine? - If it's the same as in the video, please make yourself aware of the problem with the variable oil pump in that engine and you should take care of it if you want to keep the car th-cam.com/video/Q8_hGckbJTk/w-d-xo.html
If you want to see a big bill, take an Audi V8 or V6 to have the ticking noise investigated! The timing chains (yes there are several) are at the back of the engine against the bulkhead. Chain tensioners are plastic and you know what that means. This can happen at a surprisingly low mileage!
I've had an 06 2.0t A4 Cab with 90k (now 105k) miles for 3 years now. I picked it up for next to nothing during the pandemic. It's given me zero problems that I couldn't fix myself. I replaced a few suspension parts, bushings ect, like any car that age needs. I had one faulty relay near the ECU causing the engine to stutter, but a $5 part fixed that. Once you've figured out how to wire a bluetooth receiver behind old CD din and put a magnetic tablet holder in the CD slot, the difference between that and a new car is mainly the price and the fact you have physical buttons for important internal functions.
The car wizard doesn’t know anything when it comes to Audis, he recommends people to buy pre face lift b8 a4 with the ea888 gen 2, which is known to burn oil and many other problems while the newer ea888 gen 3 like the one in this don’t have those issues, this one in the video has been abused which is why it needs a new turbo but they’re generally very reliable
Blacked out Audi logos were not available in 2017, so yep..obviously modified. I've got a 2017 S3 Prestige and the black optics package did not include black logos.
Really interesting to see whats changed and whats stayed the same against the earlier A4’s I have a 2004 with Quattro and the 1.8T, that little five valve is stout and really reliable. Im at 330,000 km on the original turbo, its only starting to take oil through the seals.
Like I said in previous video, I owned an auto repair shop for 40 years, we specialized in imports, and guess what, the largest number of cars we got for repair were the German cars, a lot of times the VW/Audi dealer was so busy with all the repairs they would send cars over to us to fix. Very few Japanese cars came to us with major issues, just routine maintenance most of the times. Made a very good living repairing German cars, happy retired since 2017, and oh, never owned a German car in my live.
Took me 40 years to figure out that Lexus was the way to go, I have 2 of them with NA V6's. Best cars I've ever owned. I drove GM all my life since my dad worked for them. I'm sure he's rolling in his grave that I own them. He always told me, if I ever drive an Import that my portion of the will would go to the Russians. Sorry dad.
That car is modified. Front grille, splitter, rear diffuser, paddle extensions, etc. i bet it has a modified tune. Perhaps that is why the turbo is gone
these engines take really well to tunes and produce a lot of power so long as you keep up on general maintenance. that is why people choose them over boring NA japanese cars.
That Cadillac coupe in the background looks very clean and amazing... Just saw a glimpse of it but looks amazing.... That generation is way way later than my time perhaps two gens but love those old cars Back when cars looked at their all time best with true class
I had an 86 BMW 325. They used a lot of plastic way back then. The tanks on the side of the radiator were made out of plastic and they broke twice in the 5 years I owned it.
Yes sir. My dad had two e39s (1997 523i and 2002 525i) and two e34s (1992 520i and 1994 530i) All of them had plastic radiator tanks which failed very often
10k mile oil change services kill Turbo's. 280k miles on my MK7 VW GTI just do the maintenance people. Most asian cars also have as much plastic, so don't think its just a European thing. Most new cars are like this. Change my oil every 5000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first. The water pumps are a known issue and are not that expensive to replace. Great cars when taken care of.
Agreed, the internet love to spread misinformation with the ignorant people, I’m sitting at 127k on my MK7 GTI with a hybrid turbo and it pulls strong with 400whp lol
Change your oil every 3000 miles/yearly and your engine will literally run forever. The quickest way to get in trouble with an engine is to go significantly longer than the number I stated- VW/Audi products, if maintained, are not much less reliable than competing Japanese brands. In my experience, at about the 10 years old point, a properly maintained VW/Audi will start to have problems with accessories. RARELY do they have major engine issues. The turbo's on these cars are an item that fails too often, but realistically they are good cars. And they look/drive SO MUCH BETTER than a damn Toyota or Honda!
Try owning a wrx = 1200 miles - add half to full quart... that Amsoil adds up - and mine even passed leakdown/compression tests... EJ "life"... my 370z with 110,000 burns ZERO oil...it's laughable...
@@07wrxtr1 Odd. EJ oil use? I've never heard anything about that with these engines. If an engine is not properly broken in, then it will wind up using more oil; The owners of WRX's are likely to buy the car and go to full power as they leave the dealer lot with a cold engine, and do the same thing all the time. That will destroy rings and head gaskets in short order on any car. I have an '01 Outback with the H6 engine, and though it leaks a little, it burns NO oil whatsoever. Then again, this is an EZ30 engine, not the pile of shit EJ engine....
@@Flies2FLL Bingo...the engine actually lasted... the transmission self destructed...so I firesold it for $7500, got me the 370z...have had a solid ten years with it. EJ engines may as well be treated as near race engines - hourly maintenance... I lived in walking distance to Cobb - so... it was an expensive lesson!
Plastics are fine provided they are well made with the correct materials. I have a Toyota RAV4 from 2014 with lots of plastic parts in the engine. It’s still running like new after 225,000kms
Exactly. Mr. Wizard is coming off a little "boomerish" in this video being upset at all the plastic covers. They actually work well. 13 A4 here, over 140k miles(225k km) now. 0 issues with the covers. Actually 0 issues with the engine in general. I actually PREFER having a plastic oil pan on cars. I never have to worry about them rusting a hole into themselves overtime
@@gabevillarreal4779 2.0T. I change my oil around 6000 miles. I use Liqui Moly 5w40, and once every couple of oil changes I use Liqui Moly Ceratec treatment. It’s all on fcpeuro’s website
So glad I have '08 V70 and '10 C30 Volvos, Build back when cars were made out of metal and made to last. I live in rural ireland and treat the V70 like a pickup truck and it takes all Of it and gets stuff done Without complaining.
I'm glad that you point out these manufacturering details of plastic parts. It saves them (car makers) money, meanwhile the prices go up... Maybe VW and others will go back to using metal parts on critical components.
The Reason of useing Plastic is also the stupid Envairomental mandat´s here in Europe. Cars must bei lighter to saveing fuel and raw Materials (#Recycling).
A majority of the plastic parts on this engine are metal on the 2.0 TDIs. Oil pan, water pump, intake. Really a whole bunch of parts. They still break if you don't stick with the maintenance schedule. Getting 100k out of a water pump is fine. It needs to be changed every 60k on my 928s.
@@TheTardis157 I think the the 2.0TDI´s are more Reliable than the most gasoline Engines. Just the Timing Belt, glow sparks should change by Time and you shouldn´t drive short distances. Myself drive a 2.0TDI with 190HP. The Engine has 190.000km and it run´s fine and econmical.
Same here, and the crazy part is I bought it brand new. My 2017 Honda Civic had 92,000 miles on it and needed motor mounts, struts, and was burning oil like crazy. I was under the impression that Honda was incredibly reliable, but my experience suggests otherwise, despite me being diligent with maintenance.
I don't want to discredit the things the wizard is saying, however there are some relatively easy fixes for these cars if you can figure them out. you can order a full metal aftermarket water pump for 350 bucks. the turbo is still 1300 idk if there's a better factory replacement but also turbos tend to be around the early 1000 dollar range anyways. installing a catch can would help with the pcv system and also a little bit with the carbon buildup, just make sure you remember to drain it every now and then. yes the plastic breaks and can be expensive but you can also order metal aftermarket parts instead of replacing them with the stupid plastic parts and some of them can be relatively easy to install. if you want a German car just know that you can make these cars reliable by getting rid of the weak points and doing oil changes every 5000 kilometers and other maintenance stuff like that. as long as you keep up with that stuff and do a bit of research these cars can last quite a while. also I know I wasn't including labor costs in those estimates but if you take it to a third party shop you can pay a decent bit less for labor than taking it to the dealer. also if you don't mind doing some repairs yourself then that would save all the labor for those repairs. Basically if you drive the car as it is with all the plastic and never do maintenance then yeah its going to break down right away. its a German car what did you expect? but I also find that Scotty and the wizard and other mechanics youtubers blow up german cars to be horrible and they never last because of all the complicated tech and plastic parts on them. these problems are really easy to fix if you do a few google searches and these cars can be really good.
Hello to you all, I usually don't comment that much on youtube but I just had the feeling that I have to shine some light on the issues concerning the 2.0 TFSI and other modern engines from the VAG group. Although I'm not a VAG guy or fan at all I just wanted to share this information with you so that owners of these vehicles get aware of the main issue with these newer engines and it does even apply to other makes and models to some extent 🤦♂ - believe it or not but the real issue is the oil pump, specifically the low oil pressure when these engines are below 3000 rpm! Many newer engines have so called variable oil pumps where they alter the pressure of the oil being supplied to the engine in certain RPM/load ranges so in low load or low RPM operation these engines just don't get enough oil pressure to supply the internals of the engines and also the periphery - so literally everything... - From the turbo bearings to the timing chain drive, the timing tensioner, the rod bearings, the crankshaft bearings, the piston cooling, the variable valve timing and even the bearings for the camshaft, all those get insufficient oil pressure for an extended period of time and that's the real reason why component after component starts failing in these engines and it'll eventually lead to a catastrophic engine failure once that damage has reached a certain degree 😐. Especially in the case of the TFSI engines, the oil pressure at idle and in the low rev range is around 1 to 1.5 bar and it keeps being so low until 3000 RPM, that's when the engine computer tells the oil pump to switch to a higher flow delivery rate and starts supplying the engine with sufficient or "normal" oil pressure of around 3-4 bars (which was standard for basically every older car when these variable oil pumps were not being used at all inside an engine) So you may ask what is this crazyness all about or why do they do it? - Unfortunately the reason is higher efficiency, lower fuel consumption and lower emissions, and the manufacturers nowadays are forced to be compliant with ever more restricting policies regarding these issues, especially in Europe. So they have no other choice but to optimize everything towards these aspects to be able to continue offering their cars to the market. I don't want to protect the manufacturers in any way and of course it is a horrible design that's gonna end up as a real misery for the owners but bluntly spoken, that's just the way it is and you have to acknowledge that it's not just the manufacturers to blame for that. If you're interested in more information, I will provide two videos for you that address these issues and also provide a solution. The videos are in German, but I think subtitles are available in English as well so you're welcome to watch in case you're curious. Best greetings from Germany and I hope that I could help someone at least with these information 🖐🥨 Video 1: th-cam.com/video/zi8u2e-XRJw/w-d-xo.html Video 2: th-cam.com/video/Q8_hGckbJTk/w-d-xo.html
@@denvernn Thank you for your comment, actually I cannot answer that question but from the oil pressure perspective, of course when the engine is driven properly (that means a bit of acceleration every now and then) would be better than driving in the very low rev ranges all the time. If I had that engine, I would install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge if possible and take care of the variable oil pump by either getting an upgrade pump like in the videos I posted or try to trick the installed original pump with a software modification from a tuner or by a hardware modification trick: th-cam.com/video/-t_Y_MzZji4/w-d-xo.html - watch this video from minute 21:10 (I cannot guarantee that it works but I assume so)
@@TassieLorenzo Thank you for your comment, I think so actually if properly done. A good tuner should be able to flash a software mod onto the ECU to get the oil pump to deliver maximum pressure at any time or lift up the oil pressure in the low revs so you don't have these problems anymore. Another way is to get an upgraded one as in the videos I posted or to hard-manipulate the original pump. Watch this video from minute 21:10 for more information - th-cam.com/video/-t_Y_MzZji4/w-d-xo.html (I cannot guarantee that it works but I assume so)
I wrenched on Audi’s and VW for 50 years at dealership level, at that mileage it sure can’t be the original water pump, and have seen a lot worse carbon buildup on the intakes. Don’t be surprised to have a timing chain concern in the future.
For 1200 or 1400 bucks the turbo isn't worth servicing but to do the cartridges usually only $200. The cartridges is between the two blades they're self-tightening so you can't really mess that up. The housing is covered the blades but the housings there's one for the intake side and then there's one for the exhaust side and there's usually like 4 to 6 bolts that hold them together. As long as you have clearance, you can spin it with your finger when you put the assembly back together. It's pretty much that simple if you bought a pre-balanced kit. The blades are self-tightening so they don't need to be over tightened when assembled. They just need to have enough that there isn't play so when it spools up it isn't going to slam tight and you don't want it to be hitting the inner side of the housing. As far as that shaft having play in it, you can usually machine that out and then insert a bushing and then reassemble it. And this is stuff you can do at home if you've taken it out yourself for you to do it as a shop when you're charging a couple hundred dollars I'd imagine per hour it's probably not worth it for somebody that has one of these vehicles. That center cartridge is what you have to get to and that controls the movement of the turbin blades, the exhaust, and the intake. They're on the same rotational shaft assembly. Sometimes I would like if you would elaborate on this but I understand why you don't as you are running a business and you're not trying to really help somebody who's doing the work themselves.
Exactly. He has to cover labor cost on the repair, while as the diy-er can get it done for less cost wise if they are capable. Make no since to patch or repair something you don't do everyday and still offer a warranty. Gotta let the Pros/builders do their job. You don't want a knee surgeon doing a heart surgeon job even though they both went to the same school.
@@Go2scout exactly, but for a DIYer that doesn't have a lot of cash but has one of these vehicles. It's a doable job. Also, for him having a business he can't say oh we can repair that here and then get in there and realize that the turbos had damages that were beyond the repairability of the shop. Because there would be a time delay and also an expense increase and for most consumers that's going to upset them. But for somebody who has a vehicle that's just due for maintenance, the offset in cost from doing it yourself would allow you to do the water pump, thermostat etc etc for about the cost of just replacing the turbo and you have a rebuilt turbo. Also when doing it yourself you can increase the size, Port the bypass valve, coat the housing, Go from a cast wheel to a forged one etc etc
@@Go2scout I elaborated on it because the way that he makes it sound is that is jet engine technology. It's sort of is, but it's DIY level type of stuff. And the automotive community traditionally has always helped each other out and so I don't want people to be intimidated by a job that is relatively simple. It's only half a jet engine complex lol 😆
Hey Wizard, Greetings from Australia. I just had my head under the bonnet of my Mercedes 280CE, not much plastic under there. Easy to work on, everything accessible. I wonder will this Audi still be going when it is 44 years old?
Replaced my plastic water pump at 67,000 (2.0T). $1,800. Getting ready for more $$$. But as Wizard says, know what you are buying. ( my other two cars are Hondas).
Hmm. Rs4 grill, teddy bear headliner, fake CF interior, red DSG paddle shifters, Quattro sticker, front lip. I believe this car was abused and it’s 94,000 miles.
That oil pan is exactly like the one on my 2017 VW Golf Alltrack. Once the drain plug strips (a tech at the dealership effed it up) the only fix is to get a new oil pan. Sadly, when that happened to mine I was beyond the extended warranty without any recourse on my part. Pissed me off to no end.
That's just user error, the drain plug gasket, is rubber and replaceable. I thought my oil pan needed to be replaced but it just needed to be torqued down to specs again. Even then a new oil pan and labor should cost
I have a 2019 Audi A5, which is basically an A4. Same engine and all that basically but slightly changed I think. Anyway, for this B8 generation there is a waterpump that is all aluminum from ECS if you're interested in an all metal one. It's a fun car to drive, it's zippy, makes decent power, and the DSG transmission is very fast. However I got it from Carmax with the Maxcare warranty. I'm hoping I don't have to use it, but if I do I'm covered to 100k, but I'll probably get rid of it before I pass that point.
Got the same car. I downloaded all the shop manuals for it on a Audi service site. I change my oil every 5k miles, kind of disappointing the intake valves still get gunked up after all the issues they had a decade ago 😬. The water pump is a well known failure with this car
@@gregorytolson1648 Valves on any direct inject engine are gonna gum up unless it also has port injection. My water pump so far has been fine, but I've been keeping an eye on it.
The build up honestly doesn’t look that bad. Compare to any 4.2 or earlier 2.0T and there would be a mountain of carbon buildup on top of the head, and coating every inch. Since you have everything taken apart, might as well clean it. But it probably was not misfiring
My 2018 A5 convertible, 60k miles. Water pump and motor mounts $3,200. It's great to drive and the convertible is my way of life. Problem is that coming from a 2014 MB E350 (absolute tank), the Audi is clearly part of the new German manufacturing process. Disposable car.
Seems crazy that VAG builds dual injection (direct and port) EA888 engines for EU (thereby avoiding the carbon buildup problem), but only direct injection EA888’s for the US. Really like these “why it failed” forensic videos.
For the carbon on the valves do you do like a walnut blasting or something else? I don’t recall if we’ve seen a video on the channel about carbon cleanup yet.
there was one on Range rover. and Audi S6 V10. He did chemical clean + scrubbing. Walnut blasting does the job better in my opinion but needs pro to make sure walnuts don't end up in the cylidner.
Used to have a 2001 twin turbo Audi A6, while under CPO warranty hardly broke. After the warranty expired, $4,500 to fix the leaking rear main, $5k to clean the heads, $2,500 for the timing service, $800 for a airbag module rebuild, all in 3 years. But it was a blast of a car to drive.
That car is going to run so good when you’re done I know it’s expensive to do those jobs but it is worth it. I bought cars like that before people had given up on in fact, an Audi about five years older than than that one did all that and then some and enjoyed it for a while before selling it.
Had the water pump replaced on my 2015 Audi S3 at 100k as well. I wanted to get a carbon cleaner but the shop I went to said they don’t do it so I’ll have to get that done very soon. Still absolutely love my car tho it’s my dream daily.
@@keelynn4112 just had the water pump junction pipe replaced. It was not replaced when the water pump went out; it should have been. I took the car to a nicer shop and they replaced that and it’s All good now. Other than that not really small stuff here and there not really worth mentioning. These cars are relatively reliable but… if you want to keep them for a long time they are maintenance heavy. Like dsg and haldex etc. which I gotta do soon. Oil changes at 5k not 10. And I’m going to a metal oil pan cause I can’t stand the plastic oil pan any longer. If you know you know.
I have a 2019 Mercedes E300 and I love it. I think that a lot of the problems with German cars is that people buy one and then think that they can treat it like a Toyota Corolla
@@vintagehaynesflute yes and no really , they do get mis treatment but you’re still dealing with low quality plastic interior parts that just squeak and rattle then when the plastic under the engine start to go , good luck should’ve just bought a chevy if you like that lmao If you’re cool with overprice plastic for a entry luxury , maybe u need to get over your ego lol
Just bought my son a 2014 A4. So far all good, hopefully it doesn't turn into a money pit. It drives and feels great on the road. I drive a VW 2015 golf sport wagon with IS20 turbo and apr tune. Now at 125k miles and hasn't gave me any major issues. I swapped the water pump @120k miles even though it was still working.
Yes! Oil change intervals need to come down to 5k with FULL SYNTHETIC OIL and they need to be using TOP TIER gasoline exclusively as well as BG44k in the fuel system or gas tank every single oil change. That would have eliminated all that carbon build up.
@@gabevillarreal4779 Fuel additives are insignificant, and regular gasoline without special additives is fine. On engines with only direct injection such as all VW/Audi engines, nothing in the fuel will make any difference to carbon, at least in the place it matters most, the intake ports and valves, as fuel never ends up there anyways. Full synthetic oil became commonly available for automotive use as early as the 1980s, and should be used exclusively, no matter if the engine was designed in 1920 or 2020, due to its vastly superior properties over conventional or semi-synthetic oils. 5,000 mile oil change intervals are mandatory on modern engines, and strongly recommended for older engines as well for maximum longevity.
Love you videos wizard. Not posting this as a gotcha moment or anything just something to help you and future customers. GRAF and INA both make all metal water pump Assemblies for these cars. On my area WorldPac sells them. We've been putting these in for about 2 years and they're both great
I had 187,000 miles on my VW, and it was 2011. And my Mercedes is 2017 and that’s on 120,000 miles and still perfect! I just recognise that it’s probably treated worse over there. Maybe the fuel quality maybe the oil, but here in Europe it’s perfectly good to have hundreds of thousands of miles on a car here.
The problem is that North America gets a different type of "German car" than Europe. The VWs and Audi's here in the States are from Mexico and it's a different quality than the ones made in Germany
This engine is actually very good. Durable I should say. The core of the engine. It is designed very well. It’s the accessories that fail, like turbo and water pump. This engine has 2 main failure point. Water pump. And carbon buildup. Turbo, depends on the model. IS38 is very reliable and proven to be indestructible. That is found in Golf R. You wouldn’t find a Gold R with a shot turbo. IS20 and IS16, like found in GTI and I believe this Audi, are common to fail. Some VW Audi dealers recommend carbon cleanup service every 100k miles, even though VAG officially doesn’t mention it at all. Overall these are the only 3 failure points of this engine. If you keep an eye on them, they actually can last a very long time. Oh and timing chain issue isn’t present in 3rd and 4th Gen on these engines. If you buy one that is 2016+, you will be good.
So the important engine parts like the water pump is made from plastic but the shifter knob and rear diffuser is made from strong carbon fiber. Yeah that makes sense.
The plastic isn't an ordinary plastic. Engine bay plastics are typically high temp thermoplastics like polyamide66gf30. That said it's still sucky compared to a regular old metal cast water pump
You put the fear of God in me, Wizard! Living with the same model year A4 quattro. Routine maintenance done but I'm not sure if any of these can be prevented or caught before it explodes on me.
i have a 2009 a4 avant, with the famous 1.8t problem engine, went to the dealer for the oil usage, they repaired the oil problem under leniency, when they teared the engine apart they saw the timing chained needed replacing, also the waterpump was starting to leak, they asked me what to do with it, i told them right away to fix it, not taking any chances. in the end i only paid 800 euro's for the chains and pump, that was luckily cheap. 60000 km later still no problems
There should be a water pump recall on those as its pretty common on the audi/vw with those motors. Carbon buildup is very common on Direct Injection motors like these and many other manufactures.
With aftermarket shift paddles, I wonder if the premature wear with the turbo and water pump was do to aggressive driving; nevertheless, plastic impellers seem prone to early failures.
I own 2004 Audi A6C6 3.0TDI so basically 20 year old car with almost 360k kilometres / 220k miles with no leaks, no issues, everything works. 0-60 in around 7sec and I drove it on German autobahn 260km/h (160mph). Average mpg 25.0 (31-33mpg highway / 17-18mpg city). Highway range of 650 miles per tank.
My 2018 Audi S3 had a higher HP version of the same engine. I'm so glad I traded it in at 4.5 years old with 70K miles. The 7sp DSG started having issues and various other issues started creeping up. They only offered me $22K for it but I took that because I didn't want to keep that ticking time bomb.
Very smart decision, take a smaller loss now, rather than a greater loss later. My Dad just keeps calling me every 6 months, because another thing broke on his Audi, but sure, Dad, this time, it's the last thing and the car runs fine now.
So, you failed to do the basic maintenance on your car, in almost 5 years, and then complain that they paid you not enough for a car that you pretty much minced? Weird.
@@sombraarthurnot all Audi owner know what to do to make a car truly last all they care about is tuning the car and beating it up not staying on top of oil changes and other maintenance
@@Yondaily yeah, I see that now. All they care about is specs, not dealing with maintenances, and then selling it to the next owner with tons of issues that would not be expensive if they had taken care of the car first. In here, where I live, we have the same, but thankfully, some owners (like myself) take really good care of the car, making it last forever. My Audi is a 2000 A3 8L, which I very much care for. 24 years and going strong!
WIZARD! i will say this before watching thank you so much for covering the B9 A4, i was always looking forward to this i even commented asking for it on your last vid when i saw this A4 in the background. As always, love what you do!
Understood. Keep in mind that it has been a very reliable, trouble free car. I have had my 17 A4 Quattro since Aug 2016. Now it has 88,000 miles and have only done brakes and maintenance along the way. All good things come to an end.
I’m a younger guy- I’ll admit it, and I’ll own my house this year. I was actually looking at an red Audi nearly identical to this with the manual transmission (my preferred way of having an vehicle.).. seeing this really makes me second guess my choices for a dream/idle car to own lol
These cars are great with frequent oil changes. These cars are solid and water pump is really the only big issue about 1k to fix max and carbon build up really just is a thing on most Audis after this many miles but it isn’t scary to clean them some people even do it themselves. You will not blow a turbo if previous owner was a regular chap because by the mods this car is most definitely a stage 2 car. He has aftermarket cat which is supporting mod for a stage2 so he probably was pushing 350 hp which the car wasn’t made for. Manual is also more reliable than the dsg in the long run so please don’t be fooled by this video.
@machko1 mentions some great points. The B9 (2017+ in the USA) A4's are solid cars with solid engines. 5K oil/filter changes with good quality oil, use Top Tier gas (Costco is Top Tier btw), etc. Don't deferred or skip services (like brake fluid flush, trans/diff flush, etc.) and you'll be golden. Wizard often time fails to mention how tunes, bad maintenance, etc., lead up to these problems.
When buying a new car, extended warranty come up. I think CR recommended that a buyer of German auto brands should do so. Less on Japanese automobiles. Specifically rated Mercedes as brand that had the highest repairs, I was foolishly thinking of their ancient inline diesel 6 cylinder which used to be bullet proof.
I have a 2009 audi a4 avant “wagon” with 310.000km! And still drives like new. I do 4 oil changes a year, every 3 months. Not the recommended 2 oil yearly oil change because the components are mostly plastic and old oil allows engine to over heat causing damage. I buy oil and filters on sale and do maintenance myself. I work part time at a garage as a second job, we are always changing engines in GM products and Korean cars. I would say preventive maintenance is the key to a car’s longevity. FYI……my Audi is also tuned, I two Audis and two bmws high mileage and I drive regularly with very few issues.🤷😏😎
I also have a 2009 A4 Avant with 165,000 miles. It had the piston rings redone at 75k under warranty, with the turbo (same rattly wastegate as this vid) and timing chain guides done at the same time. Since then, it’s gotten Motul or liquimoly oil changes every 5k miles. I’ve also done the injectors, carbon clean, and transmission fluid at about 120k. She’s still going strong even though I’ve been stage 2 tuned with a downpipe since 2015. I honestly haven’t had an issue the previous five years, though it’s time for a water pump (first one) and CV boot repair. I’m going on nine years with it and wouldn’t change a thing.
there is metal waterpump? idk this video your sounding a lot like scotty, these cars are known to be reliable if if you do 3 things maybe 4, 1. timing chain and guides, 2. waterpump 3. updated intake manifold 4. 5k oil changes
for what it’s worth, i have a 2016 gti since new that uses this same gen 3 ea888 engine and its been very reliable and has needed only proper maintenance and one diy water pump replacement + carbon cleaning. turbo showing no signs of going out at 90k miles and tuned with a downpipe since 50k miles. good engine if you care for it properly i.e. waiting until oil is up to operating temp before getting into boost, synthetic oil changes regularly, allowing turbo to cool down after running it hard before shutting engine off. i would use caution when buying used with shoddy service records.
I own a classic 1989 BMW E32 (7 series) and can honestly say the plastics used in that era a far better quality than ones used on my 2018 Series 5 BMW. What's more the company was more judicious in the manner they employed plastic parts in the 1980s cars. It's also notable that under bonnet (US hood) temperatures were more modest in 1980as cars than the current crop of cars fitted with turbos that generate lots of heat and subject plastic parts to high cyclic (hot-cold) temperatures.
Sounds like my 2017 A4, now at 96k, did the water pump at 68k and turbo at 81k. Seems that VW/Audi are just unable to make a water pump that isn't brittle plastic and needs replacement early in the car's life. If that's the original water pump, that's impressive! The wastegate play is why my turbo went bad at 81k miles, and my mechanic mentioned that it was a very common failure in a tuned car. I'm going in for a carbon cleaning soon, it's about time. Normal Audi maintenance, and $4k for all that sounds like a very reasonable price!
A perk to ea888 gen 3 engine is that it’s reliably unreliable. It has well known problems that you can prepare for. Generally it’s pretty easy to work on.
Right, im eyeing a 2021 A4 45line. And every video I watched on YT said the turbo, and water pump are always going to fail high mileage. The timing chain was recently updated.
@@666cemetaryslut oh that’s crazy because every other car has those “issues” it’s almost like every car has issues because they wear out due to poor maintenance or use….
Make yourself aware of the issue with the variable oil pump that's basically destroying all the major components in that engine: th-cam.com/video/Q8_hGckbJTk/w-d-xo.html
I have a 2015 A4 2.0 Turbo. What do I need to do in order to prevent this shit? Catch can? Oil changes every 3k with Lucas oil stabilizer? I can do all that work myself and I got the car for dirt cheap so all in all won’t be costing me that much even if I have to replace that shit, but is there anything you know of that prevents the turbo etc from failing?
Changing the water pump and the carbon cleaning can be done by anyone and does not require rocket science brains. You can drop that 4k to the 200 dollar water pump ( not oem but german made ) and the cost of a turbo both from rockauto. The 2.0T is easy to maintain and work on, the only issue I would see is the timing chain needing to be looked at or changed every 150k miles.
Luckily the timing chain on the 2.0T is in the front and only requires you to put the car in service position to change it out (so no engine out or even having to remove the front end).
In vehicles with timing belts that need to changed at say, 90,000 miles, often, the water pump needs to be pulled, so it makes sense to replace it, whether it is okay or not. Our Lexus waterpump was replaced during the timing belt service.
How come Scotty and The Wizard NEVER seem to mention (or make a big deal) about timing belt/chain services and water pumps on JDM cars but when it's on a German car, it's the end of the world! Lol. BTW, timing chains on 4-cylinder Audi's are on the FRONT of the engine. Can be changed with the car just in service position. No front end removal, no engine out, etc.
My last two Lexus cars needed a timing belt at 100K miles. My current B8.5 A4's timing chain has 135K miles on it and the cam phase is at -3.62. Recommended change is at -/+5 to -/+6 with cars going to -/+7 w/o damage (I've even seen -/+8 that were ok). So not exactly a failure, eh? Poor maintenance, extended or deferred oil changes (10K-15K mile) , tunes, etc. are the reason for early timing chain issues.
I've just bought an Audi A3 ragtop, looks amazing, dark grey, black wheels, sports suspension, S-tronic flappy paddles, but it's been losing coolant since the day I drove it off the garage forecourt, only has 78k miles, nothing. It's been back in and had the coolant temperature sensor changed and the parking sensor too but again on the way back from the garage the coolant level warning came up. I thought maybe air pockets, topped it up, took it for a spin with the heating on full, but not long after getting home a small puddle appeared under the car, and the coolant smell. I only bought it because my Ampera (Chevy Volt) at 65k miles developed serious gearbox problems which would have cost a fortune to fix and I only bought the Ampera because my last two BMW 3 series had engines which packed up/blew up at not much past 100k miles. I really hope all the accountants and sales & marketing people who ruined BMW haven't all relocated to Audi. The guys at the garage are pretty cool and I have a warranty, but if Audi has done a BMW which would be a total disaster, then Audi aren't just screwing the used car buyers, they're screwing over dealers, first time buyers because of depreciation, and most of all because customers aren't stupid, in the long term they are screwing themselves over.
A Honda accord will break down if you’re driving like it’s on a race track. My 13 Touareg vr6 currently has 178k. I had it since new. The only “major” repair it ever needed was the valve gasket assembly. Drive your car and treat it right, it’ll last you 200k no problem.
I have a 2011 A5 S-Line Quattro, mine has given me issues and has plenty of plastic on the engine, but certainly not the oil pan or transmission cover, thankfully. As for the turbo wastegate, there is a clip you can install to take the play out of it and, from what I've read, can give you another 50,000 miles. But if I was replacing my turbo I would upgrade to the K04 over the K03. If you are looking for an engine to tune and upgrade this is a great base, can get to 400 horsepower with the right tweaks.
Our 2014 Audi allroad (a4) has 152k miles and just now I'm getting into repairs. Water pump is leaking, and had to replace the motor mounts. It's cost us less in repairs than our Toyota Highlander which has 102k...
@@jdm2gdm To bolster our statement regarding Toyota my Highlander now won't pass the next state inspection due to frame rot (even with oil under coatings!). The Highlander now has 112k..and I could drop a list of everything that has been or currently needs to be replaced but, no point because its toast.. The allroad is going strong at 160k though!
I was going to buy an Audi A4 b9 quattro like this one, however my 2008 2.0t fsi Jetta was in rough shape at 160k miles, leaking oil from the vacuum seals, engine starting to burn more oil (even with 6k oil changes, castrol edge). I said I had enough of VAG and bought a low idle hour, low mile 19' Dodge Charger Pursuit Hemi AWD instead for cheap.
VW (before Buick) were the first Western car maker to invest heavily in manufacturing in China, it's the second biggest market after the US and I I said the Chinese loved those big grills. Late BMWs are sooo ugly.@@Chasechillz
Pretty generalistic and not necessarily true. The Chinese prefer longer wheelbase cars with rear passenger seats further rearward from the front. Most Americans prefer shorter cars for a variety of reasons including handling, cost and shorter cars are easier to parallel park. Depends on the market. Americans like the big grilles because it makes the car look sportier and more aggressive. Has nothing to do with the Chinese or their buying tastes. Look closely on the big grilles and you will notice on most North American cars that most of it is blocked off, serving no purpose whatsoever other than cosmetic appearances
Seriously? I'm in the UK, see an F-150 at my local supermarket it sticks out about 3'3" (1metre) past the other cars, then let's talk about US cars up to the late 70's, I owned a 1975 Chrysler New Yorker. Enough said.@@houseofno
4 grand for another 100,000 miles doesn't seem too bad in the big scheme of things ,providing the transmission doesn't fail ! We all know heat is the big killer especially in compact engine bays with motors wrung out to produce high HP . The carbon is created by the emission controls on the engine ??
Wizard - finding other mechanical issues is not an up-sale. Up-sale is somethings like: window treatments, door seal treatment, nitrogen in the tires, cabin air filter, excessively expensive wipers, engine treatments...
Turbos are like clutches, these should last the life of the car or close to it if you take some precautions such as not redlining your engine at every opportunity, using quality oil with frequent changes and allowing a one or two minute cool down before shutting off your engine if you've been driving hard.
My old UK 2004 Audi A4 B6 1.8T (red T) has 116k miles on it now. Even back then they used too much plastic. I had to have the thermostat replaced just recently which is housed in a plastic body. It was the body that split, much like the water pump in your video. I've had other big bills over the years too. Main pinion bearing in the gearbox hardened surface failed at around 85k miles, that wasn't a cheap fix. Cam chain tensioner feet had cracked at around 110k miles. That was noticed when I was having the seal under the cam chain tensioner replaced due to an oil leak. Very lucky I asked for that to be fixed as if the tensioner had totally failed that'd have wrecked my engine.
@@eazy_e.7153 not really. I had it for 5 years. Steering rack went out $3000. Oil leaks thousands. Misfire after misfire. Etc. etc. endless problems. I have a new one and will keep it for 3 more years until I buy an RS5/7. You get what you pay for. Cheap labor is half assed labor. You have to pay to pay. If you can’t afford the bills then don’t buy an Audi.
@@eazy_e.7153 steering rack went out $3000 job. Cv boots. Piston rings failed. Carbon needed cleaning. Misfires left and right. Endless issues. If you have money and realize the cost they’re good cars.
@@epicswirl how many miles did you have man and what engine. ? I only had Audis with 3.0t and 3.2. I was warned to always stay away from 2.0ts and the new s4’s, I heard the b9’s have valves train issues too. Still tho 20k is steep man you got ripped off for sure. I coulda got u a new motor and trans for less then that lol with labor.
several years ago I had an 19 a4. I just a recall notice last week about 17 to 21 a4 for water pump issues, I do remember at times smelling coolant. Now I know why. It had only 29 k on it when sold.
@@saltycarl6581 There are plenty out there, the problem is lack of maintenance and following ridiculous manufacturer recommendations. That is what is killing the reliability not the cars themselves.
Considering that the turbine wheel is almost seized, I would guess low oil or poor maintenance (oil change intervals). Which would then lead to more heat causing the journal bearing to wear prematurely and maybe even the wastegate flapper as well. I'm blown away that the wastegate flapper on A4's is still a thing 15 years later. The extra heat also destroyed the water pump? That's my guess.
I am pretty sure everyone here who’s a Car enthusiast can tell this car was Driven hard, whoever owns it I’m sure they went 10k miles between oil changes and drove it like a Civic. Usually this is a Solid engine when you keep up with it . I have a GTI wit this engine in a 6Speed and already have 145k miles on it and never saw this kind of failure.. it’s a shame.
Nop. Because is a petrol Audi. The diesel are bullet proof, here in Europe is easy to see Tdi with 250k miles and more.. the TSI if you have 70k without issues You're lucky 😂
Plastic 1/4 the weight and 1/10th the price. coming to cars near you. The Germans got the bad rep because they were first to the game of cost reduction back in the 90's, and it only accelerated in 2008 with the new cafe standards. Also, they like to run their cooling systems at a higher pressure. It make them pop sooner. But there's more, Our "Green initiatives" introduced another bane of automotive plastics "bio-degradable". Then Turbos add yet another level of heat under the hood to ramp up the replacement cycle. Great to extract 150-200 HP/l, but you have to pay the piper.
My last car was a 2017 Audi A4 Quattro S line. At 60,000ish miles a plastic coolant line broke that was located on top of the engine. I was able to fix it myself for about $350 and 4 trips to the dealership for parts as more and more of the coolant line snapped as I worked on it. I have since traded it for a Honda. Sure, the Honda is not as good-looking and not as fun as the Audi, but it will last us for years!
The channel should be renamed to "BUT WAIT , THERE'S MORE" LOL
Actually every time you do say "But wait, There's more" I'm going expect the bill to go up $1000, i like the Car Wizard.
Reminded me about Marisa Tomei in the court scene of "My Cousin Vinny" movie: "No, there's moah!" 😄
th-cam.com/video/W7YoxrKa4f0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mhSl2kyszVh_sIL9
no, thats the guy that watches and films trains
"Melted ball of plastic!" 🤣🤣🤣
I'll stick with my old JDMs...
@@Andy_Novosad🤣🤣🤣🤣Great movie!!! "YOU WERE SERIOUS ABOUT THAT!?" Immediately pans to him riding the prison bus!!!!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Blown turbo because it was probably abused or tuned, or both. Also owner probably didn’t stay on top of oil changes
Thought tuned when i saw carbon splitter.
you sound like the Subaru people😂
@@Ambrose4k I have owned 3 Audis and 1 VW MK4 GTI 5 speed. Far from a Subaru person.
@@Ambrose4k no one said a word about headgaskets or piston damage. Tune it you may or may not blow a turbo.
@@Ambrose4kthat’s because Subaru people and Audi people aren’t very different.
A lot of them are flocking to Hyundai N cars now. Which is good. Bye 😂😂😂
Thank you, Wizard and Mrs. Sad, I used to work for Audi/Porsche (1995-2005) and owed a '96 A6 (2.8L) that went 15 years 350k with regular maint (timing belt/water pump every 100k).
You would think if you are spending an extra $10k+ you are getting your money's worth - NOPE.
U got out at EXACTLY the right time 😂
they suck then too@@pri0r_t0_a_weekago...fukwi48
What people don't understand, even Toyota is doing this now, buy yourself a 2ZR-FAE CVT Non-hybrid Corolla from 2021 and you'll know what I mean, Toyota has completely flushed themselves down the toilet since they got their reputation as being quality
You are if you go LEXUS. Trust. I've owned 8 in a row and they ALL have been excellent and trouble free. I've taken ever ES I've owned from 2004 to my 2023 to over 150k miles and have had zero problems. I've also never needed brakes once! Unreal! Oil changes filter changes and plugs. That's it.
@@gabevillarreal4779 8 cars in 19 years, oh boy! So each car averaged 2 years? No wonder you only needed to do oil changes, tires, and filters, you didnt own them long enough to. The average person owns a vehicle for 5 years or longer!
If you work on VAG vehicles a lot, you should get a VCDS to diagnose them. Mine saved my engine (2.0 TFSI) when it detected valve timing problems, indicating a stretched timing chain.
Our Autel IM608 can do this as well. Cam adaptation value
bank 1 phase position..LOL. The joy of owning a VW/Audi product.....@@CarWizard
My brother’s GTI has a plastic oil pan like that. You need a special tool to undo the PLASTIC drain plug for oil changes! 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
@@Powersproductions130 oil changes should be done out of the top of the engine bay
@@Powersproductions130A straight blade screwdriver works fine. The proper tool is only $15.
My son is an Audi enthusiast. He owns a 2015 Q7 TDI Prestige that (fortunately) was under an Audi Extended warranty when the fuel system went. Three weeks (mostly waiting for parts) and an almost $7K bill covered by Audi, it's back on the road for just over a year since and it's flawless. He also owns a 2008 Audi A4 Avant wagon that he has put $4-5K into over the past few years for repairs and maintenance. It's doing just fine for now. He says he'll be replacing it in a few years or so. Nice video M&M Wizard!
Better trade it off while it's fixed....
He's military and his wife is going to flight school under his GI Bill and not working. Both cars are paid off so it's cheaper right now to keep them both.
@@darrellsaunders4267
Sell while it’s running smooth. Don’t let him wait for the odd smoke on startup or rough idle when warm.
Next to go is the timing chain. Better hope that the engine survives all the disruption in valve operation with the timing chain stretch or the failure of the plastic guides. Another $3-4K bill.
Time to get rid of it, 10 year/120,000 warranty must be close to up that the fixed TDIs got. He might not be at the mileage but I'll bet the in service date was mid/late 2014. I traded mine at 119,xxx.
Lesson learned, If you are on a budget, don’t buy an Audi, Mercedes, BMW, Land Rover, Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep, Chevy, GMC, Fiat, VW, Jaguar, ….
I would suggest a Toyota bc they’re extremely reliable. They can last 500,000 miles if properly maintained
So nothing fun or cool ..got it
Toyota or Honda
I heard newer bmws 2018 and up with the B58 and B57 and S55 engines are really dependable and reliable with lower maintenance costs then some of the older bmws but we will see if that’s still the case in the coming years but from what I heard from other owners is that those models are reliable
Buy a Crown Victoria.
When governments start legislating stricter CAFE standards is when you really see quality go down. There’s only so much mpg you can get out of an internal combustion engine so the only solution is to throw on a turbo, give it direct injection and lighten the overall weight, hence, plastic parts. Very few cars built today are built without these issues.
@@lucienswift447 it’s funny, my wife’s old Honda crx from 1984 got 45mpg. It was a complete dog on acceleration but for a road trip it was great. I’m really surprised someone hasn’t just sat down and engineered a reliable 75mpg engine for people that don’t want to drive hellcats.
Use of plastic parts is not the issue. Using cheap poor quality 'breaky-breaky' plastic parts is the real issue - especially so - when fitted in regions of the motor car that are under high cyclic (hot-cold) temperatures. From my experience, plastics used by Toyota/Lexus are far more robust than ones used by VW/AUDI, BMW and Mercedes. There seems to be (sadly) a 'race-to-the-bottom' by the German vehicle OEMs - with BMW currently leading the pack.
The turbo and GDi get worse gas mileage than some older NA cars. It's just stupid.
@@lucienswift447 PRIUS!!!
Plastic is also allows for finer shapes that helps with flow.
It‘s honestly really impressive how efficient theese engines are but as usual the More Complicated the more issues arise
For me, the funniest part of the big grills is that most of the time there is a small hole in the middle of a sea of black plastic. I see the cops driving Explorers in town and the hole for the radiator is less than 25% of the black space where the grill is.
Bigger grill with a smaller engine😂
No no they need the big grill to get the most air circulation they can to keep all that plastic as cool as they can so it doesn't get brittle and crack & brake an fall apart...😂@@christian6381
Youd be suprised, cars dont need that much air going into the engine to keep it running. That small plastic hole is more than enough
I can't stand the look of the big grill Lexus. It looks stupid, and makes me want to stick with pre 2015
new Fords have the Active Grille Shutter, the reason you see that small hole is there are only a few flaps open on the grille since the car is fine with that, it will open up more when there's more heat to dissipate. It's good to keep the gas engine warm during winter in hybrid vehicles too
They (all) make’m cheap, sell’m high. Talking about plastic doesn’t like heat or cold, I’m the same way, LOL. I like how you explain everything.
Also plastic for weight saving I could imagine. But they could as well use alloy materials 🤔
Atleast you can upgrade some parts turbos are something that isnt hard water pumps driven by belts or chains im not touching
C.W. My wife had this exact same car, down to the color. 2.0 Turbo. I had her sell it once it hit 60k. Thanks to you and your experience I’m much wiser with my car knowledge. Keep up the great videos and work
They aren’t even that bad. Ppl just wait to fix stuff till it’s too late. The turbo failure is unacceptable, but the water pump and intake valves are supposed to be done every 50k. Extremely common issues. If ppl looked on forums they’d save lots of money and time.
@@ihatefsi exactly lol this is just fear mongering to the max
They are that bad. They’re for people with repair money.
@@epicswirl they aren’t great I’ll admit. But everyone acts like they are time bombs and money pits. The Ea888.3 has water pump failures but it’s not too bad overall for example. Turbo failure are uncommon
@@ihatefsi The 2.0t is a bomb 😭. Oil consumption nightmare. My new S5 has the 3.0T it’s doing well but I’m hoping when it hits 40-50k it’ll still run great lol.
Turbo failure is uncommon but the water pump should be covered under recall anyway for 2013-2016.
Can you show us the intake carbon cleaning process? Assuming you have a walnut blaster it would be cool to see what machine you use and also how you guys clean the manifolds!
Came here to say the same thing!
I just bought a '17 A4 in December, have warranty with it but it's been great with 150,000 km on it. Best vehicle I've owned by far!
Except that now you're like every other poor person driving an Audi pretending you're loaded😂
Which engine? - If it's the same as in the video, please make yourself aware of the problem with the variable oil pump in that engine and you should take care of it if you want to keep the car th-cam.com/video/Q8_hGckbJTk/w-d-xo.html
2 months of ownership.....
You’ve barely owned it 2 months. Give it time, you’ll be in the shop.
@jalopy2472 my wife has this same car since 50k miles absolutely no problems until 103k miles some plastic lines busted about $300 fix
If you want to see a big bill, take an Audi V8 or V6 to have the ticking noise investigated! The timing chains (yes there are several) are at the back of the engine against the bulkhead. Chain tensioners are plastic and you know what that means. This can happen at a surprisingly low mileage!
Agree, that was the case for me 😢
Got 240k on my s4 3.0T… no timing issues lmao. What are u on ?
@@eazy_e.7153maybe the original owner replaced them, you’re getting lucky bro don’t be up on your high horse like that
@@ctsvblk no I did lmao fairly easily. PVC, thermostat and water pump is all the car ever needed. 3.0T is bullet proof.
I've had an 06 2.0t A4 Cab with 90k (now 105k) miles for 3 years now. I picked it up for next to nothing during the pandemic. It's given me zero problems that I couldn't fix myself. I replaced a few suspension parts, bushings ect, like any car that age needs. I had one faulty relay near the ECU causing the engine to stutter, but a $5 part fixed that.
Once you've figured out how to wire a bluetooth receiver behind old CD din and put a magnetic tablet holder in the CD slot, the difference between that and a new car is mainly the price and the fact you have physical buttons for important internal functions.
💯 correct after 2015 all companies starting to add plastic for everything
Well before actually. My 1985 Merkur XR4TI was notorious for its plastic radiator inlet cracking every 40k miles from heat.
@@aussie2uGA , or the old Ford Explorer 4.0L V6 plastic intake that cracked.
The car wizard doesn’t know anything when it comes to Audis, he recommends people to buy pre face lift b8 a4 with the ea888 gen 2, which is known to burn oil and many other problems while the newer ea888 gen 3 like the one in this don’t have those issues, this one in the video has been abused which is why it needs a new turbo but they’re generally very reliable
Judging by the red paddle shifter extensions and an RS4 bumper on an A4 this thing was tuned and beaten on. I agree the plastic is ridiculous though.
Yes it’s obviously tuned with all the mods that it has
S-line is the trim package with splitter etc I believe it's original equipment.
@Sw-so4zj yeah s line does give it a more aggressive S4 bumper but not the RS4 bunper
the German car cope is insane 😂
Blacked out Audi logos were not available in 2017, so yep..obviously modified. I've got a 2017 S3 Prestige and the black optics package did not include black logos.
Really interesting to see whats changed and whats stayed the same against the earlier A4’s
I have a 2004 with Quattro and the 1.8T, that little five valve is stout and really reliable. Im at 330,000 km on the original turbo, its only starting to take oil through the seals.
Like I said in previous video, I owned an auto repair shop for 40 years, we specialized in imports, and guess what, the largest number of cars we got for repair were the German cars, a lot of times the VW/Audi dealer was so busy with all the repairs they would send cars over to us to fix.
Very few Japanese cars came to us with major issues, just routine maintenance most of the times.
Made a very good living repairing German cars, happy retired since 2017, and oh, never owned a German car in my live.
What about British cars?
@@nealp885 About British cars we always used to say..."Add money and stir".
@@alfamontydog 🤣🤣🤣
Took me 40 years to figure out that Lexus was the way to go, I have 2 of them with NA V6's. Best cars I've ever owned. I drove GM all my life since my dad worked for them. I'm sure he's rolling in his grave that I own them. He always told me, if I ever drive an Import that my portion of the will would go to the Russians. Sorry dad.
@@charley95sheridan44I'm 46 and have only ever owned Lexus Toyota or Honda! I knew that at around 9 years old whith was 1986!
That car is modified. Front grille, splitter, rear diffuser, paddle extensions, etc. i bet it has a modified tune. Perhaps that is why the turbo is gone
Yep, my first thought as well. Tuned, driven hard and cheaped out on maintenance.
I was gonna say isn't quattro lettering an RS car exclusive
must be a good tune an mods if it's lasted as long as stock without issues 😊
It's like I'm on the audi forums again
these engines take really well to tunes and produce a lot of power so long as you keep up on general maintenance. that is why people choose them over boring NA japanese cars.
That Cadillac coupe in the background looks very clean and amazing... Just saw a glimpse of it but looks amazing.... That generation is way way later than my time perhaps two gens but love those old cars Back when cars looked at their all time best with true class
I had an 86 BMW 325.
They used a lot of plastic way back then.
The tanks on the side of the radiator were made out of plastic and they broke twice in the 5 years I owned it.
Yes sir. My dad had two e39s (1997 523i and 2002 525i) and two e34s (1992 520i and 1994 530i)
All of them had plastic radiator tanks which failed very often
10k mile oil change services kill Turbo's. 280k miles on my MK7 VW GTI just do the maintenance people. Most asian cars also have as much plastic, so don't think its just a European thing. Most new cars are like this. Change my oil every 5000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first. The water pumps are a known issue and are not that expensive to replace. Great cars when taken care of.
Agreed, the internet love to spread misinformation with the ignorant people, I’m sitting at 127k on my MK7 GTI with a hybrid turbo and it pulls strong with 400whp lol
Change your oil every 3000 miles/yearly and your engine will literally run forever. The quickest way to get in trouble with an engine is to go significantly longer than the number I stated-
VW/Audi products, if maintained, are not much less reliable than competing Japanese brands. In my experience, at about the 10 years old point, a properly maintained VW/Audi will start to have problems with accessories. RARELY do they have major engine issues. The turbo's on these cars are an item that fails too often, but realistically they are good cars. And they look/drive SO MUCH BETTER than a damn Toyota or Honda!
Try owning a wrx = 1200 miles - add half to full quart... that Amsoil adds up - and mine even passed leakdown/compression tests... EJ "life"... my 370z with 110,000 burns ZERO oil...it's laughable...
@@07wrxtr1 Odd. EJ oil use? I've never heard anything about that with these engines.
If an engine is not properly broken in, then it will wind up using more oil; The owners of WRX's are likely to buy the car and go to full power as they leave the dealer lot with a cold engine, and do the same thing all the time. That will destroy rings and head gaskets in short order on any car. I have an '01 Outback with the H6 engine, and though it leaks a little, it burns NO oil whatsoever. Then again, this is an EZ30 engine, not the pile of shit EJ engine....
@@Flies2FLL Bingo...the engine actually lasted... the transmission self destructed...so I firesold it for $7500, got me the 370z...have had a solid ten years with it. EJ engines may as well be treated as near race engines - hourly maintenance... I lived in walking distance to Cobb - so... it was an expensive lesson!
Plastics are fine provided they are well made with the correct materials. I have a Toyota RAV4 from 2014 with lots of plastic parts in the engine. It’s still running like new after 225,000kms
Exactly. Mr. Wizard is coming off a little "boomerish" in this video being upset at all the plastic covers. They actually work well. 13 A4 here, over 140k miles(225k km) now. 0 issues with the covers. Actually 0 issues with the engine in general. I actually PREFER having a plastic oil pan on cars. I never have to worry about them rusting a hole into themselves overtime
@@TheCompyshopWhat engine do you have and what are your oil change intervals and what oil do you prefer!?
@@gabevillarreal4779 2.0T. I change my oil around 6000 miles. I use Liqui Moly 5w40, and once every couple of oil changes I use Liqui Moly Ceratec treatment. It’s all on fcpeuro’s website
When I had an AUDI the dealership told me "We don't sell as many cars as Toyota so our cars have more problems."
So glad I have '08 V70 and '10 C30 Volvos, Build back when cars were made out of metal and made to last. I live in rural ireland and treat the V70 like a pickup truck and it takes all Of it and gets stuff done Without complaining.
I'm glad that you point out these manufacturering details of plastic parts. It saves them (car makers) money, meanwhile the prices go up... Maybe VW and others will go back to using metal parts on critical components.
The Reason of useing Plastic is also the stupid Envairomental mandat´s here in Europe. Cars must bei lighter to saveing fuel and raw Materials (#Recycling).
Correct. Its about weight saving and cost saving - injection moulded plastic parts cheaper than moulded or cast metal parts.
A majority of the plastic parts on this engine are metal on the 2.0 TDIs. Oil pan, water pump, intake. Really a whole bunch of parts. They still break if you don't stick with the maintenance schedule. Getting 100k out of a water pump is fine. It needs to be changed every 60k on my 928s.
@@TheTardis157 I think the the 2.0TDI´s are more Reliable than the most gasoline Engines. Just the Timing Belt, glow sparks should change by Time and you shouldn´t drive short distances.
Myself drive a 2.0TDI with 190HP. The Engine has 190.000km and it run´s fine and econmical.
I’ve had Hondas and Toyotas cost me a lot of money after 100,000 miles also. Struts, exhaust, axles, water pump etc.
Same here, and the crazy part is I bought it brand new. My 2017 Honda Civic had 92,000 miles on it and needed motor mounts, struts, and was burning oil like crazy. I was under the impression that Honda was incredibly reliable, but my experience suggests otherwise, despite me being diligent with maintenance.
I don't want to discredit the things the wizard is saying, however there are some relatively easy fixes for these cars if you can figure them out. you can order a full metal aftermarket water pump for 350 bucks. the turbo is still 1300 idk if there's a better factory replacement but also turbos tend to be around the early 1000 dollar range anyways. installing a catch can would help with the pcv system and also a little bit with the carbon buildup, just make sure you remember to drain it every now and then. yes the plastic breaks and can be expensive but you can also order metal aftermarket parts instead of replacing them with the stupid plastic parts and some of them can be relatively easy to install. if you want a German car just know that you can make these cars reliable by getting rid of the weak points and doing oil changes every 5000 kilometers and other maintenance stuff like that. as long as you keep up with that stuff and do a bit of research these cars can last quite a while. also I know I wasn't including labor costs in those estimates but if you take it to a third party shop you can pay a decent bit less for labor than taking it to the dealer. also if you don't mind doing some repairs yourself then that would save all the labor for those repairs. Basically if you drive the car as it is with all the plastic and never do maintenance then yeah its going to break down right away. its a German car what did you expect? but I also find that Scotty and the wizard and other mechanics youtubers blow up german cars to be horrible and they never last because of all the complicated tech and plastic parts on them. these problems are really easy to fix if you do a few google searches and these cars can be really good.
Hello to you all, I usually don't comment that much on youtube but I just had the feeling that I have to shine some light on the issues concerning the 2.0 TFSI and other modern engines from the VAG group.
Although I'm not a VAG guy or fan at all I just wanted to share this information with you so that owners of these vehicles get aware of the main issue with these newer engines and it does even apply to other makes and models to some extent 🤦♂ - believe it or not but the real issue is the oil pump, specifically the low oil pressure when these engines are below 3000 rpm!
Many newer engines have so called variable oil pumps where they alter the pressure of the oil being supplied to the engine in certain RPM/load ranges so in low load or low RPM operation these engines just don't get enough oil pressure to supply the internals of the engines and also the periphery - so literally everything...
- From the turbo bearings to the timing chain drive, the timing tensioner, the rod bearings, the crankshaft bearings, the piston cooling, the variable valve timing and even the bearings for the camshaft, all those get insufficient oil pressure for an extended period of time and that's the real reason why component after component starts failing in these engines and it'll eventually lead to a catastrophic engine failure once that damage has reached a certain degree 😐. Especially in the case of the TFSI engines, the oil pressure at idle and in the low rev range is around 1 to 1.5 bar and it keeps being so low until 3000 RPM, that's when the engine computer tells the oil pump to switch to a higher flow delivery rate and starts supplying the engine with sufficient or "normal" oil pressure of around 3-4 bars (which was standard for basically every older car when these variable oil pumps were not being used at all inside an engine)
So you may ask what is this crazyness all about or why do they do it? - Unfortunately the reason is higher efficiency, lower fuel consumption and lower emissions, and the manufacturers nowadays are forced to be compliant with ever more restricting policies regarding these issues, especially in Europe. So they have no other choice but to optimize everything towards these aspects to be able to continue offering their cars to the market.
I don't want to protect the manufacturers in any way and of course it is a horrible design that's gonna end up as a real misery for the owners but bluntly spoken, that's just the way it is and you have to acknowledge that it's not just the manufacturers to blame for that.
If you're interested in more information, I will provide two videos for you that address these issues and also provide a solution. The videos are in German, but I think subtitles are available in English as well so you're welcome to watch in case you're curious.
Best greetings from Germany and I hope that I could help someone at least with these information 🖐🥨
Video 1: th-cam.com/video/zi8u2e-XRJw/w-d-xo.html
Video 2: th-cam.com/video/Q8_hGckbJTk/w-d-xo.html
Very informative. Thank you. So would you recommend getting the engine above 3000rpm every so often?
Is it is possible to disable the variable oil pump system, or does that cause a check engine light?
@@denvernn Thank you for your comment, actually I cannot answer that question but from the oil pressure perspective, of course when the engine is driven properly (that means a bit of acceleration every now and then) would be better than driving in the very low rev ranges all the time. If I had that engine, I would install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge if possible and take care of the variable oil pump by either getting an upgrade pump like in the videos I posted or try to trick the installed original pump with a software modification from a tuner or by a hardware modification trick: th-cam.com/video/-t_Y_MzZji4/w-d-xo.html - watch this video from minute 21:10 (I cannot guarantee that it works but I assume so)
@@TassieLorenzo Thank you for your comment, I think so actually if properly done. A good tuner should be able to flash a software mod onto the ECU to get the oil pump to deliver maximum pressure at any time or lift up the oil pressure in the low revs so you don't have these problems anymore. Another way is to get an upgraded one as in the videos I posted or to hard-manipulate the original pump. Watch this video from minute 21:10 for more information - th-cam.com/video/-t_Y_MzZji4/w-d-xo.html (I cannot guarantee that it works but I assume so)
@@JohnStonerxD thanks again. very informative.
I wrenched on Audi’s and VW for 50 years at dealership level, at that mileage it sure can’t be the original water pump, and have seen a lot worse carbon buildup on the intakes. Don’t be surprised to have a timing chain concern in the future.
Walnut shell blasted?
For 1200 or 1400 bucks the turbo isn't worth servicing but to do the cartridges usually only $200. The cartridges is between the two blades they're self-tightening so you can't really mess that up. The housing is covered the blades but the housings there's one for the intake side and then there's one for the exhaust side and there's usually like 4 to 6 bolts that hold them together.
As long as you have clearance, you can spin it with your finger when you put the assembly back together. It's pretty much that simple if you bought a pre-balanced kit. The blades are self-tightening so they don't need to be over tightened when assembled. They just need to have enough that there isn't play so when it spools up it isn't going to slam tight and you don't want it to be hitting the inner side of the housing.
As far as that shaft having play in it, you can usually machine that out and then insert a bushing and then reassemble it. And this is stuff you can do at home if you've taken it out yourself for you to do it as a shop when you're charging a couple hundred dollars I'd imagine per hour it's probably not worth it for somebody that has one of these vehicles.
That center cartridge is what you have to get to and that controls the movement of the turbin blades, the exhaust, and the intake. They're on the same rotational shaft assembly.
Sometimes I would like if you would elaborate on this but I understand why you don't as you are running a business and you're not trying to really help somebody who's doing the work themselves.
Exactly. He has to cover labor cost on the repair, while as the diy-er can get it done for less cost wise if they are capable. Make no since to patch or repair something you don't do everyday and still offer a warranty. Gotta let the Pros/builders do their job. You don't want a knee surgeon doing a heart surgeon job even though they both went to the same school.
@@Go2scout exactly, but for a DIYer that doesn't have a lot of cash but has one of these vehicles. It's a doable job.
Also, for him having a business he can't say oh we can repair that here and then get in there and realize that the turbos had damages that were beyond the repairability of the shop. Because there would be a time delay and also an expense increase and for most consumers that's going to upset them.
But for somebody who has a vehicle that's just due for maintenance, the offset in cost from doing it yourself would allow you to do the water pump, thermostat etc etc for about the cost of just replacing the turbo and you have a rebuilt turbo. Also when doing it yourself you can increase the size, Port the bypass valve, coat the housing, Go from a cast wheel to a forged one etc etc
@@gsc512 Guess that's why this is the CarWizard channel and not Bob Villa's Car Improvement repair show.🤣
@@Go2scout I elaborated on it because the way that he makes it sound is that is jet engine technology. It's sort of is, but it's DIY level type of stuff. And the automotive community traditionally has always helped each other out and so I don't want people to be intimidated by a job that is relatively simple.
It's only half a jet engine complex lol 😆
Hey Wizard, Greetings from Australia.
I just had my head under the bonnet of my Mercedes 280CE, not much plastic under there.
Easy to work on, everything accessible.
I wonder will this Audi still be going when it is 44 years old?
Replaced my plastic water pump at 67,000 (2.0T). $1,800. Getting ready for more $$$. But as Wizard says, know what you are buying. ( my other two cars are Hondas).
Can’t you get reimbursed by the class action lawsuit for the water pump?
Hmm. Rs4 grill, teddy bear headliner, fake CF interior, red DSG paddle shifters, Quattro sticker, front lip.
I believe this car was abused and it’s 94,000 miles.
I'd say there might even be a different map on that ECU/TCU🤔
That oil pan is exactly like the one on my 2017 VW Golf Alltrack. Once the drain plug strips (a tech at the dealership effed it up) the only fix is to get a new oil pan. Sadly, when that happened to mine I was beyond the extended warranty without any recourse on my part. Pissed me
off to no end.
Be smart, sell that pos and get a Lexus
That's just user error, the drain plug gasket, is rubber and replaceable. I thought my oil pan needed to be replaced but it just needed to be torqued down to specs again. Even then a new oil pan and labor should cost
I have a 2019 Audi A5, which is basically an A4. Same engine and all that basically but slightly changed I think. Anyway, for this B8 generation there is a waterpump that is all aluminum from ECS if you're interested in an all metal one. It's a fun car to drive, it's zippy, makes decent power, and the DSG transmission is very fast. However I got it from Carmax with the Maxcare warranty. I'm hoping I don't have to use it, but if I do I'm covered to 100k, but I'll probably get rid of it before I pass that point.
Got the same car. I downloaded all the shop manuals for it on a Audi service site. I change my oil every 5k miles, kind of disappointing the intake valves still get gunked up after all the issues they had a decade ago 😬. The water pump is a well known failure with this car
@@gregorytolson1648 Valves on any direct inject engine are gonna gum up unless it also has port injection. My water pump so far has been fine, but I've been keeping an eye on it.
The build up honestly doesn’t look that bad. Compare to any 4.2 or earlier 2.0T and there would be a mountain of carbon buildup on top of the head, and coating every inch.
Since you have everything taken apart, might as well clean it. But it probably was not misfiring
@@Matt-rk3de I thought I heard somewhere that the B9 2.0t’s build carbon up slower on the intake valves than the B8’s
@@gregorytolson1648 for sure. I heard Audi claim that. Only so much you can do. B7 RS4 , carbon clean is recommended every 30-40k miles
My 2018 A5 convertible, 60k miles. Water pump and motor mounts $3,200. It's great to drive and the convertible is my way of life. Problem is that coming from a 2014 MB E350 (absolute tank), the Audi is clearly part of the new German manufacturing process. Disposable car.
So the MB was 4 years old? Most cars are reliable at 4 years....
@@mitchhedberg4415MB had 112k miles added in those 4 years. A5 is 61k miles as of today.
Seems crazy that VAG builds dual injection (direct and port) EA888 engines for EU (thereby avoiding the carbon buildup problem), but only direct injection EA888’s for the US.
Really like these “why it failed” forensic videos.
That very weird, yes. It’s like vag wants US consumers to pay more for repair
I knew there was a reason why we don't hear of this many audi issues over this side
At what mileage point do you think it’s worth getting a walnut shell blast to rectify the carbon buildup
Love your channel and appreciate your directness and honesty. Good qualities in a mechanic and in a human being. 😀
For the carbon on the valves do you do like a walnut blasting or something else? I don’t recall if we’ve seen a video on the channel about carbon cleanup yet.
there was one on Range rover. and Audi S6 V10. He did chemical clean + scrubbing. Walnut blasting does the job better in my opinion but needs pro to make sure walnuts don't end up in the cylidner.
All this gunk from the EGR valve, if its possible for this model i'd blank it.
@@kamilianos thanks! Just looked up those videos
Used to have a 2001 twin turbo Audi A6, while under CPO warranty hardly broke. After the warranty expired, $4,500 to fix the leaking rear main, $5k to clean the heads, $2,500 for the timing service, $800 for a airbag module rebuild, all in 3 years. But it was a blast of a car to drive.
There is actually an upgraded metal water pump available. Metal oil pans are available too.
I love fixing oems mistakes.
@@Syncopia What you call mistakes, manufacturers call "Planned Obsolescence" :P
Are there still common failure parts that don't have metal replacements? Who manufactures the pump and oil pan?
That car is going to run so good when you’re done I know it’s expensive to do those jobs but it is worth it. I bought cars like that before people had given up on in fact, an Audi about five years older than than that one did all that and then some and enjoyed it for a while before selling it.
Had the water pump replaced on my 2015 Audi S3 at 100k as well. I wanted to get a carbon cleaner but the shop I went to said they don’t do it so I’ll have to get that done very soon. Still absolutely love my car tho it’s my dream daily.
It’s a very fun choice and also if you take care of it they will last 250,000 miles I love them I’m going to get one after this Volvo
How’s the car holding up & repairs ?
@@keelynn4112 just had the water pump junction pipe replaced. It was not replaced when the water pump went out; it should have been. I took the car to a nicer shop and they replaced that and it’s All good now. Other than that not really small stuff here and there not really worth mentioning. These cars are relatively reliable but… if you want to keep them for a long time they are maintenance heavy. Like dsg and haldex etc. which I gotta do soon. Oil changes at 5k not 10. And I’m going to a metal oil pan cause I can’t stand the plastic oil pan any longer. If you know you know.
I've had 6VW and 7Audis... no regrets yet, but then again I take care of my stuff.
I have a 2019 Mercedes E300 and I love it. I think that a lot of the problems with German cars is that people buy one and then think that they can treat it like a Toyota Corolla
Couldn't it be, that maybe, many people buy these cars on the used market, and maybe lots of them have tempered odometers?
@@victorgarciap.4788 very possible
@@victorgarciap.4788 possibly but I think more likely it’s deferred maintenance.
@@vintagehaynesflute yes and no really , they do get mis treatment but you’re still dealing with low quality plastic interior parts that just squeak and rattle then when the plastic under the engine start to go , good luck should’ve just bought a chevy if you like that lmao
If you’re cool with overprice plastic for a entry luxury , maybe u need to get over your ego lol
@@cormaro13 well that was certainly rude.
Just bought my son a 2014 A4. So far all good, hopefully it doesn't turn into a money pit. It drives and feels great on the road. I drive a VW 2015 golf sport wagon with IS20 turbo and apr tune. Now at 125k miles and hasn't gave me any major issues. I swapped the water pump @120k miles even though it was still working.
Someone didnt keep up with preventative maintenance on that Audi, it seems.
Yes! Oil change intervals need to come down to 5k with FULL SYNTHETIC OIL and they need to be using TOP TIER gasoline exclusively as well as BG44k in the fuel system or gas tank every single oil change. That would have eliminated all that carbon build up.
@@gabevillarreal4779 Fuel additives are insignificant, and regular gasoline without special additives is fine. On engines with only direct injection such as all VW/Audi engines, nothing in the fuel will make any difference to carbon, at least in the place it matters most, the intake ports and valves, as fuel never ends up there anyways. Full synthetic oil became commonly available for automotive use as early as the 1980s, and should be used exclusively, no matter if the engine was designed in 1920 or 2020, due to its vastly superior properties over conventional or semi-synthetic oils. 5,000 mile oil change intervals are mandatory on modern engines, and strongly recommended for older engines as well for maximum longevity.
Love you videos wizard. Not posting this as a gotcha moment or anything just something to help you and future customers. GRAF and INA both make all metal water pump Assemblies for these cars. On my area WorldPac sells them. We've been putting these in for about 2 years and they're both great
I had 187,000 miles on my VW, and it was 2011. And my Mercedes is 2017 and that’s on 120,000 miles and still perfect! I just recognise that it’s probably treated worse over there. Maybe the fuel quality maybe the oil, but here in Europe it’s perfectly good to have hundreds of thousands of miles on a car here.
The problem is that North America gets a different type of "German car" than Europe. The VWs and Audi's here in the States are from Mexico and it's a different quality than the ones made in Germany
@@bh2155the a4 is strictly made from Germany it’s the owners or previous owner that created all these problems for the next owner
This engine is actually very good. Durable I should say. The core of the engine. It is designed very well. It’s the accessories that fail, like turbo and water pump. This engine has 2 main failure point. Water pump. And carbon buildup. Turbo, depends on the model. IS38 is very reliable and proven to be indestructible. That is found in Golf R. You wouldn’t find a Gold R with a shot turbo. IS20 and IS16, like found in GTI and I believe this Audi, are common to fail. Some VW Audi dealers recommend carbon cleanup service every 100k miles, even though VAG officially doesn’t mention it at all. Overall these are the only 3 failure points of this engine. If you keep an eye on them, they actually can last a very long time. Oh and timing chain issue isn’t present in 3rd and 4th Gen on these engines. If you buy one that is 2016+, you will be good.
lol. “These engines when they’re working well” … said everyone with an Audi before the warranty expired.
False but go off
Good job wizard. Appreciate your honesty. Mrs. W, good job on your interior overviews. You two make a great couple. The very best to you both.
So the important engine parts like the water pump is made from plastic but the shifter knob and rear diffuser is made from strong carbon fiber. Yeah that makes sense.
They're probably aftermarket, and probably not even real carbon fibre
The plastic isn't an ordinary plastic. Engine bay plastics are typically high temp thermoplastics like polyamide66gf30. That said it's still sucky compared to a regular old metal cast water pump
Form over function is what sells these days
@@burntnougat5341all that just to say it's plastic and it sucks haha
Don't you have to frequently change timing belts on other cars, that usually includes the change of the water pump? Not any different, metal or not.
You put the fear of God in me, Wizard! Living with the same model year A4 quattro. Routine maintenance done but I'm not sure if any of these can be prevented or caught before it explodes on me.
i have a 2009 a4 avant, with the famous 1.8t problem engine, went to the dealer for the oil usage, they repaired the oil problem under leniency, when they teared the engine apart they saw the timing chained needed replacing, also the waterpump was starting to leak, they asked me what to do with it, i told them right away to fix it, not taking any chances. in the end i only paid 800 euro's for the chains and pump, that was luckily cheap. 60000 km later still no problems
There should be a water pump recall on those as its pretty common on the audi/vw with those motors. Carbon buildup is very common on Direct Injection motors like these and many other manufactures.
With aftermarket shift paddles, I wonder if the premature wear with the turbo and water pump was do to aggressive driving; nevertheless, plastic impellers seem prone to early failures.
I own 2004 Audi A6C6 3.0TDI so basically 20 year old car with almost 360k kilometres / 220k miles with no leaks, no issues, everything works. 0-60 in around 7sec and I drove it on German autobahn 260km/h (160mph). Average mpg 25.0 (31-33mpg highway / 17-18mpg city). Highway range of 650 miles per tank.
My 2018 Audi S3 had a higher HP version of the same engine. I'm so glad I traded it in at 4.5 years old with 70K miles. The 7sp DSG started having issues and various other issues started creeping up. They only offered me $22K for it but I took that because I didn't want to keep that ticking time bomb.
Very smart decision, take a smaller loss now, rather than a greater loss later. My Dad just keeps calling me every 6 months, because another thing broke on his Audi, but sure, Dad, this time, it's the last thing and the car runs fine now.
So, you failed to do the basic maintenance on your car, in almost 5 years, and then complain that they paid you not enough for a car that you pretty much minced?
Weird.
@@sombraarthurnot all Audi owner know what to do to make a car truly last all they care about is tuning the car and beating it up not staying on top of oil changes and other maintenance
@@Yondaily yeah, I see that now. All they care about is specs, not dealing with maintenances, and then selling it to the next owner with tons of issues that would not be expensive if they had taken care of the car first.
In here, where I live, we have the same, but thankfully, some owners (like myself) take really good care of the car, making it last forever. My Audi is a 2000 A3 8L, which I very much care for. 24 years and going strong!
WIZARD! i will say this before watching thank you so much for covering the B9 A4, i was always looking forward to this i even commented asking for it on your last vid when i saw this A4 in the background. As always, love what you do!
Those Aliexpress paddle extensions 🤣
Understood. Keep in mind that it has been a very reliable, trouble free car. I have had my 17 A4 Quattro since Aug 2016. Now it has 88,000 miles and have only done brakes and maintenance along the way. All good things come to an end.
6:35 . . .those red steering wheel transmission paddle extensions are a TEMU WISH add on ! lol
I’m a younger guy- I’ll admit it, and I’ll own my house this year. I was actually looking at an red Audi nearly identical to this with the manual transmission (my preferred way of having an vehicle.).. seeing this really makes me second guess my choices for a dream/idle car to own lol
These cars are great with frequent oil changes. These cars are solid and water pump is really the only big issue about 1k to fix max and carbon build up really just is a thing on most Audis after this many miles but it isn’t scary to clean them some people even do it themselves. You will not blow a turbo if previous owner was a regular chap because by the mods this car is most definitely a stage 2 car. He has aftermarket cat which is supporting mod for a stage2 so he probably was pushing 350 hp which the car wasn’t made for. Manual is also more reliable than the dsg in the long run so please don’t be fooled by this video.
@machko1 mentions some great points. The B9 (2017+ in the USA) A4's are solid cars with solid engines. 5K oil/filter changes with good quality oil, use Top Tier gas (Costco is Top Tier btw), etc. Don't deferred or skip services (like brake fluid flush, trans/diff flush, etc.) and you'll be golden. Wizard often time fails to mention how tunes, bad maintenance, etc., lead up to these problems.
Used to sell Audi's and had a Quattro TT 225 with manual. As I told everyone, lease instead of buy, And definately sell by 100,000 miles.
Lease and RUN AWAY after 36months!! I'd say the same really for any German brand.. you're playing with fire.
When buying a new car, extended warranty come up. I think CR recommended that a buyer of German auto brands should do so. Less on Japanese automobiles. Specifically rated Mercedes as brand that had the highest repairs, I was foolishly thinking of their ancient inline diesel 6 cylinder which used to be bullet proof.
Agree - except I would add the sell before the 7 year mark -before the cheap poor quality plastics begin to crumble.
Bingo!@@07wrxtr1
I have a 2009 audi a4 avant “wagon” with 310.000km! And still drives like new. I do 4 oil changes a year, every 3 months. Not the recommended 2 oil yearly oil change because the components are mostly plastic and old oil allows engine to over heat causing damage. I buy oil and filters on sale and do maintenance myself. I work part time at a garage as a second job, we are always changing engines in GM products and Korean cars. I would say preventive maintenance is the key to a car’s longevity. FYI……my Audi is also tuned, I two Audis and two bmws high mileage and I drive regularly with very few issues.🤷😏😎
I also have a 2009 A4 Avant with 165,000 miles. It had the piston rings redone at 75k under warranty, with the turbo (same rattly wastegate as this vid) and timing chain guides done at the same time. Since then, it’s gotten Motul or liquimoly oil changes every 5k miles. I’ve also done the injectors, carbon clean, and transmission fluid at about 120k. She’s still going strong even though I’ve been stage 2 tuned with a downpipe since 2015. I honestly haven’t had an issue the previous five years, though it’s time for a water pump (first one) and CV boot repair. I’m going on nine years with it and wouldn’t change a thing.
there is metal waterpump? idk this video your sounding a lot like scotty, these cars are known to be reliable if if you do 3 things maybe 4, 1. timing chain and guides, 2. waterpump 3. updated intake manifold 4. 5k oil changes
You sound like the Subaru people😂, its not the car its the owners🤡
for what it’s worth, i have a 2016 gti since new that uses this same gen 3 ea888 engine and its been very reliable and has needed only proper maintenance and one diy water pump replacement + carbon cleaning. turbo showing no signs of going out at 90k miles and tuned with a downpipe since 50k miles. good engine if you care for it properly i.e. waiting until oil is up to operating temp before getting into boost, synthetic oil changes regularly, allowing turbo to cool down after running it hard before shutting engine off. i would use caution when buying used with shoddy service records.
Kind of enjoyed TH-cam putting an Audi Quattro ad in the middle of this.
I own a classic 1989 BMW E32 (7 series) and can honestly say the plastics used in that era a far better quality than ones used on my 2018 Series 5 BMW. What's more the company was more judicious in the manner they employed plastic parts in the 1980s cars. It's also notable that under bonnet (US hood) temperatures were more modest in 1980as cars than the current crop of cars fitted with turbos that generate lots of heat and subject plastic parts to high cyclic (hot-cold) temperatures.
Sounds like my 2017 A4, now at 96k, did the water pump at 68k and turbo at 81k. Seems that VW/Audi are just unable to make a water pump that isn't brittle plastic and needs replacement early in the car's life. If that's the original water pump, that's impressive! The wastegate play is why my turbo went bad at 81k miles, and my mechanic mentioned that it was a very common failure in a tuned car. I'm going in for a carbon cleaning soon, it's about time. Normal Audi maintenance, and $4k for all that sounds like a very reasonable price!
B8 A4 with 135K miles, original water pump and turbo. No tune.
A perk to ea888 gen 3 engine is that it’s reliably unreliable. It has well known problems that you can prepare for. Generally it’s pretty easy to work on.
Right, im eyeing a 2021 A4 45line. And every video I watched on YT said the turbo, and water pump are always going to fail high mileage. The timing chain was recently updated.
Unreliable? Where? They only have water pump issues just like any car as it’s uncommonly a wear item but treated to last forever lmaoooo
@@Yaboybash Rear main seal, timing chains, constant misfires, carbon buildup and the list goes on.
@@666cemetaryslut oh that’s crazy because every other car has those “issues” it’s almost like every car has issues because they wear out due to poor maintenance or use….
Make yourself aware of the issue with the variable oil pump that's basically destroying all the major components in that engine: th-cam.com/video/Q8_hGckbJTk/w-d-xo.html
I have a 2015 A4 2.0 Turbo. What do I need to do in order to prevent this shit? Catch can? Oil changes every 3k with Lucas oil stabilizer? I can do all that work myself and I got the car for dirt cheap so all in all won’t be costing me that much even if I have to replace that shit, but is there anything you know of that prevents the turbo etc from failing?
Changing the water pump and the carbon cleaning can be done by anyone and does not require rocket science brains. You can drop that 4k to the 200 dollar water pump ( not oem but german made ) and the cost of a turbo both from rockauto. The 2.0T is easy to maintain and work on, the only issue I would see is the timing chain needing to be looked at or changed every 150k miles.
Luckily the timing chain on the 2.0T is in the front and only requires you to put the car in service position to change it out (so no engine out or even having to remove the front end).
In vehicles with timing belts that need to changed at say, 90,000 miles, often, the water pump needs to be pulled, so it makes sense to replace it, whether it is okay or not. Our Lexus waterpump was replaced during the timing belt service.
Smart man
How come Scotty and The Wizard NEVER seem to mention (or make a big deal) about timing belt/chain services and water pumps on JDM cars but when it's on a German car, it's the end of the world! Lol. BTW, timing chains on 4-cylinder Audi's are on the FRONT of the engine. Can be changed with the car just in service position. No front end removal, no engine out, etc.
I used to work at Audi lol, this failures happened so much. Also, a 2.0? It'll need a timing chain sooner rather than later
My last two Lexus cars needed a timing belt at 100K miles. My current B8.5 A4's timing chain has 135K miles on it and the cam phase is at -3.62. Recommended change is at -/+5 to -/+6 with cars going to -/+7 w/o damage (I've even seen -/+8 that were ok). So not exactly a failure, eh? Poor maintenance, extended or deferred oil changes (10K-15K mile) , tunes, etc. are the reason for early timing chain issues.
@@jdm2gdmthank you for this
I've just bought an Audi A3 ragtop, looks amazing, dark grey, black wheels, sports suspension, S-tronic flappy paddles, but it's been losing coolant since the day I drove it off the garage forecourt, only has 78k miles, nothing. It's been back in and had the coolant temperature sensor changed and the parking sensor too but again on the way back from the garage the coolant level warning came up. I thought maybe air pockets, topped it up, took it for a spin with the heating on full, but not long after getting home a small puddle appeared under the car, and the coolant smell.
I only bought it because my Ampera (Chevy Volt) at 65k miles developed serious gearbox problems which would have cost a fortune to fix and I only bought the Ampera because my last two BMW 3 series had engines which packed up/blew up at not much past 100k miles.
I really hope all the accountants and sales & marketing people who ruined BMW haven't all relocated to Audi.
The guys at the garage are pretty cool and I have a warranty, but if Audi has done a BMW which would be a total disaster, then Audi aren't just screwing the used car buyers, they're screwing over dealers, first time buyers because of depreciation, and most of all because customers aren't stupid, in the long term they are screwing themselves over.
A Honda accord will break down if you’re driving like it’s on a race track. My 13 Touareg vr6 currently has 178k. I had it since new. The only “major” repair it ever needed was the valve gasket assembly. Drive your car and treat it right, it’ll last you 200k no problem.
I have a 2011 A5 S-Line Quattro, mine has given me issues and has plenty of plastic on the engine, but certainly not the oil pan or transmission cover, thankfully. As for the turbo wastegate, there is a clip you can install to take the play out of it and, from what I've read, can give you another 50,000 miles. But if I was replacing my turbo I would upgrade to the K04 over the K03. If you are looking for an engine to tune and upgrade this is a great base, can get to 400 horsepower with the right tweaks.
Our 2014 Audi allroad (a4) has 152k miles and just now I'm getting into repairs.
Water pump is leaking, and had to replace the motor mounts.
It's cost us less in repairs than our Toyota Highlander which has 102k...
Exactly! I've had many Toyota/Lexus cars and they have been no more or less reliable than the Audis I've owned.
@@jdm2gdm
To bolster our statement regarding Toyota my Highlander now won't pass the next state inspection due to frame rot (even with oil under coatings!).
The Highlander now has 112k..and I could drop a list of everything that has been or currently needs to be replaced but, no point because its toast..
The allroad is going strong at 160k though!
I was going to buy an Audi A4 b9 quattro like this one, however my 2008 2.0t fsi Jetta was in rough shape at 160k miles, leaking oil from the vacuum seals, engine starting to burn more oil (even with 6k oil changes, castrol edge). I said I had enough of VAG and bought a low idle hour, low mile 19' Dodge Charger Pursuit Hemi AWD instead for cheap.
The Chinese loved big grills, VW were built there then Lexus and the other Germans copied them, basically for the Chinese market.
Wait seriously? China and VW started the whole grill shit? I had no idea lol
VW (before Buick) were the first Western car maker to invest heavily in manufacturing in China, it's the second biggest market after the US and I I said the Chinese loved those big grills. Late BMWs are sooo ugly.@@Chasechillz
Pretty generalistic and not necessarily true. The Chinese prefer longer wheelbase cars with rear passenger seats further rearward from the front. Most Americans prefer shorter cars for a variety of reasons including handling, cost and shorter cars are easier to parallel park. Depends on the market.
Americans like the big grilles because it makes the car look sportier and more aggressive. Has nothing to do with the Chinese or their buying tastes. Look closely on the big grilles and you will notice on most North American cars that most of it is blocked off, serving no purpose whatsoever other than cosmetic appearances
Seriously? I'm in the UK, see an F-150 at my local supermarket it sticks out about 3'3" (1metre) past the other cars, then let's talk about US cars up to the late 70's, I owned a 1975 Chrysler New Yorker. Enough said.@@houseofno
VW has factories all around the world. Before China they were in Brasil and other Latin American countries and even South Africa
4 grand for another 100,000 miles doesn't seem too bad in the big scheme of things ,providing the transmission doesn't fail !
We all know heat is the big killer especially in compact engine bays with motors wrung out to produce high HP .
The carbon is created by the emission controls on the engine ??
Wizard - finding other mechanical issues is not an up-sale.
Up-sale is somethings like: window treatments, door seal treatment, nitrogen in the tires, cabin air filter, excessively expensive wipers, engine treatments...
Tell that to some of the nasty customers Ive had.
Turbos are like clutches, these should last the life of the car or close to it if you take some precautions such as not redlining your engine at every opportunity, using quality oil with frequent changes and allowing a one or two minute cool down before shutting off your engine if you've been driving hard.
My wife has a b8.5 A4 she’s put 75k on it and the only issues we’ve had has been a crank position sensor and a wheel bearing. I can’t complain at all.
My old UK 2004 Audi A4 B6 1.8T (red T) has 116k miles on it now. Even back then they used too much plastic. I had to have the thermostat replaced just recently which is housed in a plastic body. It was the body that split, much like the water pump in your video. I've had other big bills over the years too. Main pinion bearing in the gearbox hardened surface failed at around 85k miles, that wasn't a cheap fix. Cam chain tensioner feet had cracked at around 110k miles. That was noticed when I was having the seal under the cam chain tensioner replaced due to an oil leak. Very lucky I asked for that to be fixed as if the tensioner had totally failed that'd have wrecked my engine.
I love my 2022 S5 but I’ll be selling it as soon as the 5 year warranty is up. I had a 2013 A4 cost me $20k in repairs because it was out of warranty.
You have no idea where to go for maintenance that’s why 😂. That’s rs7 repair bills my man.
@@eazy_e.7153 not really. I had it for 5 years. Steering rack went out $3000. Oil leaks thousands. Misfire after misfire. Etc. etc. endless problems. I have a new one and will keep it for 3 more years until I buy an RS5/7.
You get what you pay for. Cheap labor is half assed labor. You have to pay to pay. If you can’t afford the bills then don’t buy an Audi.
@@eazy_e.7153 steering rack went out $3000 job. Cv boots. Piston rings failed. Carbon needed cleaning. Misfires left and right. Endless issues. If you have money and realize the cost they’re good cars.
@@epicswirl how many miles did you have man and what engine. ? I only had Audis with 3.0t and 3.2. I was warned to always stay away from 2.0ts and the new s4’s, I heard the b9’s have valves train issues too. Still tho 20k is steep man you got ripped off for sure. I coulda got u a new motor and trans for less then that lol with labor.
You call yourself an Audi fan 😂😂😂 and trying to get rid of a beautiful car that’s crazy
several years ago I had an 19 a4. I just a recall notice last week about 17 to 21 a4 for water pump issues, I do remember at times smelling coolant. Now I know why. It had only 29 k on it when sold.
Sorry wizard the cause of these problems are the owner, not Audi
You're right! It is the owner's fault... For buying an Audi...
@@caramel_butterscotch Every 5+ year old car needs maintenance. I bet his is the first garage this Audi has seen in years.
Asian cars absolutely do not need this much maintenance.
@@Syncopiathat’s because this Audi makes more power than 90% of Asian cars, and it’s not even a top of the line Audi. That’s the difference.
@@Syncopiayes they do speaking from experience
Vw used to have plastic blades on the water pump that would fail, i see they have improved on that design 🙃
CW, that Audi proves your advice to buy a Lexus, Toyota, or Honda.
Have 280k miles on my MK7 VW GTI no mechanical issues just routine maintenance. Don't hate on a brand if people don't do the maintenance.
The key is maintenance. I do all the work on my Passat, sons MK7 GT and TDI. @@eppyz
@@eppyz did you not see all the Audi plastic? Who TF uses a plastic oil drain pan!? that's insane. Audi is junk
@@eppyz thanks for the anecdote but lets look at the total numbers not just one guy.
@@saltycarl6581 There are plenty out there, the problem is lack of maintenance and following ridiculous manufacturer recommendations. That is what is killing the reliability not the cars themselves.
Considering that the turbine wheel is almost seized, I would guess low oil or poor maintenance (oil change intervals). Which would then lead to more heat causing the journal bearing to wear prematurely and maybe even the wastegate flapper as well. I'm blown away that the wastegate flapper on A4's is still a thing 15 years later. The extra heat also destroyed the water pump? That's my guess.
The Wizard never delves into those things. He just like to say how terrible Audis are w/o mentioning how the owner treats it.
Forget the Audi I want to see the beautiful red convertible on the side 😂
Then subscribe to his channel. He has posted a couple on that Ferrari
I am pretty sure everyone here who’s a Car enthusiast can tell this car was Driven hard, whoever owns it I’m sure they went 10k miles between oil changes and drove it like a Civic. Usually this is a Solid engine when you keep up with it . I have a GTI wit this engine in a 6Speed and already have 145k miles on it and never saw this kind of failure.. it’s a shame.
I'd never buy an out of warranty Audi without an extended warranty
Extended warranty sucks
I am the warranty
Wizard, So what’s your procedure on how to clean the valves? I have a 2018 2.0T and want to get prepared since I know it’s coming.
Why? cause its an Audi!!!!!!!!!
😂😂😂
Nop. Because is a petrol Audi. The diesel are bullet proof, here in Europe is easy to see Tdi with 250k miles and more.. the TSI if you have 70k without issues You're lucky 😂
No lack of oil changes
@organiccold we drive many more miles,300k is not super abnormal. Not saying you're wrong,its just not many miles.
No, but f$&@ you, that’s why! We’re AUDI!
@11:09...well- even though the labor is the same- what's the cost of machining/repairing the turbo you have as opposed to buying a new one?
Plastic 1/4 the weight and 1/10th the price. coming to cars near you. The Germans got the bad rep because they were first to the game of cost reduction back in the 90's, and it only accelerated in 2008 with the new cafe standards. Also, they like to run their cooling systems at a higher pressure. It make them pop sooner. But there's more, Our "Green initiatives" introduced another bane of automotive plastics "bio-degradable". Then Turbos add yet another level of heat under the hood to ramp up the replacement cycle. Great to extract 150-200 HP/l, but you have to pay the piper.
last time I checked German cars where the expensive ones
My last car was a 2017 Audi A4 Quattro S line. At 60,000ish miles a plastic coolant line broke that was located on top of the engine. I was able to fix it myself for about $350 and 4 trips to the dealership for parts as more and more of the coolant line snapped as I worked on it. I have since traded it for a Honda. Sure, the Honda is not as good-looking and not as fun as the Audi, but it will last us for years!