Sam, this is honestly a solid channel. You do an excellent job of explaining repairs for DIYers. Everything is clear, concise down to the links for inexpensive tools and parts. I don’t think you get enough appreciation. Thanks for all the great info!
This video is why I like you, you encourage people to do their own work and not always have to replace parts. And you show how to do it with the right tools. You also have a great attitude towards it. Well done man. Thanks.
You can reset the oil change message yourself. There are two messages that you are mixing up. "Inspection Due" and "Service Due". The "Service Due" message you can reset yourself by clicking "Car" by MMI panel, clicking the bottom left quadrant button, "Servicing and Checks", click "Service Intervals", scroll to bottom and click "Reset oil change interval". Takes about 30 seconds at most. The "Inspection Due" you do have to reset with a VCDS/VAG-COM scanner, but the "Service due" oil change message you can do without any scanner. I also recommend changing the coding from 10,000 mile interval to 5,000 interval so everytime you reset the intervals, they start at 5,000 miles and not 10,000.
@@DavidThompson-dr9mb Because who in their right mind would change their oil on an RS7 or any car they drive hard every 10,000 miles, especially DI engines and turbo/supercharged? When I have a car roll into the shop and they follow the 10,000 or 7,500 oil interval from the infotainment, the engine is much more stained compared to those that do 3,750 or 5,000. I can quickly see how clean/stained the engine is by removing the oil cap and looking at the cams and the head surface.
For those interested in the OBD2 scanner, read the fine print for the one Sam's using before committing to the purchase. It will become a brick after the first year if you don't spend another $50 to renew the subscription every year after that. Probably still worth it if you work on cars a lot...
Yeah, 50$/year is not that bad. I would not mind, even if i only work on my one car. Especially if that scanner can really do all the things advertised here.Hell, even Carly is more expensive than that (at least in France)
The dealership wanted over $5k to replace the rotors and brakes on my Audi. I bought 'custom' rotors from a supplier (whom I wouldn't recommend even though the rotors came out fine), new pads + braided lines, scan tool and misc parts/tools for under $3k total. Audi uses a very soft steel on their rotors, so they tend to score and groove worse than other brands or aftermarket. Additionally, an odd thing about Audi (at least mine) the rear brakes wear a lot faster than the front. The theory is that the adaptive cruise control and low speed braking use the rear brake bias to slow the car so you don't have that jerky lurch forward in stop and go traffic.
VW Group cars all bias braking to the rear, so the rear pads always wear out first. I've owned 4 of their cars and all 4 needed rear brakes done well before the fronts.
all my cars always needed front pads way before the rears but not my VW. that car wore out rear pads before the front. as a side note I suspected the dealer did not rotate my tires because the brake dust was significantly worse on the front after the rotation. turns out becuse the rear brakes work so hard the rear wheels get more brake dust than the front ones. only car I've ever owned that does this.
Development engineer for radars here :) To calibrate the radars you can pop off the cap and use the mirror behind it with a simple cross laser. Park on flat surface, and use a target board in from of the vehicle with a mark at the same height with the mirror. For horizontal alignment, you can just use a tube behind the rear wheels and get that axis projected to the front, and you can set the distance between the mirror and the reflected laser vertical line to be parallel with that. This is the simplest way usually, and if your radar doesn't have a mirror but a flat front face, you can still attach a small mirror with a piece of tape on top of that.
@@Drofthechalice🥃🥃 every time I go to the dealer to do my brakes in my bmw x5 with m3 brakes they always change my rotors for that reason 🥃🥃 I mean if u got these sport luxury cars u gotta know what comes with it 🥃🏁🏁🚩
Agreed. I think it’s safe to do this one time. After that replace the rotors. Still a 50% savings on $700 rotors which brings it to what is in my opinion, a reasonable number
Great vid, thanks Sam. Audi engineers are the best, no question about it. They managed to develop an interchangeable steering wheel from left to right and back at the touch of a button 18:09...
Definitely measure the minimum thickness of those rotors, as long as there in spec and you don't have abnormal vibration your brake job should be just fine.
I think the ball hone is fine as long as the rotors aren't warped and the thickness is within spec. The ball will take off any glaze and help the pads seat.
I am amazed that you haven’t removed the wear lips on those rotors. Hillbilly’s do it by turning the rotors just like you did and the use an angle grinder to carefully remove the wear rim. A little more care as in direction of rotation when cutting the wavy rotors but it can be done. Love your channel and how simple it can be to repair things on even late model cars after using the old grey matter to work things out and get the right info before attempting thing.
From everything I understood that he was in debt. A shame. Why does he want to be a slave to the bank with something he doesn't need? It even shows us how much it has to give back. TH-cam has taken his brain.
Nice work. Those rotors WILL need to be replaced one day, but being single piston rears (I'm surprised at that) it may actually be 5 years before you need to do that!
I'd even question that. Why? Because I wouldn't put it past an OEM to say "replace replace replace" new rotors even if they are only worn 1mm off new. New rotors: 8.7295 mm MUST REPLACE ROTORS DANGER DANGER DANGER when the rotors are 8.2235 mm
The most important question about your rotors is what was the measurement of how thick the rotors were? All manufacturers give a limit to wear on rotors (discs). If the rotors are below the minimum measurement then they have to be changed. And just out of interest, how did you manage to do the backside of the rotor with the honing tool?
BMW dealer tech here, some of the prices we charge are insane. We’re at price level 14 on parts (that means 14 levels over MSRP) and over $260 an hour in labor. A normal front and rear brake job with pads and rotors can go for over $3k for just a regular every day car. M cars are an even bigger price hike. It’s absolutely crazy
LOL $1K on ECS tuning gives you good rotors and ceramic pads and you'll need the VAGCOM (or this OBD-2 Tool) to do the back brakes. IDK how you guys are spending $3K on pads and rotors for Audis LMAO Unless you have the RS6, RS7, or R8 platforms it doesn't make sense. The A-Line Audis don't.
@@jimhimesjr At our dealership we resurface rotors at most once and only if there isn't a huge lip on the rotor. These rotors I definitely wouldn't skim. They're very thin to keep weight down so by the time you resurface you may be at minimum spec, and also the shape will interfere with our resurfacing machine. We only resurface regular rotors.
OBD11 allows you to work on your audi and reset your oil change lights among a bunch of other things. Plus it reads ALL the codes for your car. Best $100 I ever spent for my Q5
Sam what a great channel you have going on here. Thanks for going into detail and sharing all these tips n tricks (Inlcuding the tools). keep'em coming... we will keep on watching!
I just got this like a week ago. I have used so many different scan tools, and many that are the inexpensive Bluetooth to your phone type. Almost every Bluetooth one comes with some compromise, either they can't scan all systems or they can only do it on a few makes. This one is truly a game changer and it's price point is insane. The next cheapest one that's as capable as this one is around $400 that I found. So far I've used it on 2 Range Rovers, and this Audi and its been 👍👍👍
@@Jmoraaevery time I've shown Carly I always mentioned how good it is specifically for VW, Audi, and BMW. They've recently expanded it's capability to include more models, but with the release of this Topscan, so far, the Topscan outshines it in most metrics. Topscan is a bit more "technical," and Carly might have an easier interface, but Topscan can do more, on more cars, for less money.
You don't need a brake rotor turning tool to turn the rotors. Any standard manual lathe with a 15"+ swing will surface them. Then once surfaced, you have the lathe spinning slow, and give the rotor a gentle buff with a 40 or 60 grit flapper wheel. Cover your lathe bed with newspaper before you do that.
I have not read all of the comments on this, but I was wondering about why you couldn't just have these rotors turned either with a lathe designed for this purpose or a conventional lathe like you suggest.
I commend you on your patience in dealing with all these car projects! I am amazed and enjoy hearing how you dissect and sleuth through the issues and solutions. Enjoyable channel!
The dealerships need to wake up. With new car prices soaring service costs need to stay down or you'll drive customers away. There loss is a private shops gain. Great video as always. Hope you have a Happy and safe Thanksgiving Sam and everyone else who reads this.
I think most of the people who would purchase a car like this new make an amount of money that they would lose money by spending time doing the repair. The dealer hopes to get its money out of the first couple owners before the car ends up mechanically totaled. hilariously the insane used car market will keep cars like this on the road a lot longer than in the past. I always recommend looking up the cost of things like tires and brakes, before buying a car. When I was in my 20's, I worked at some independent and dealer auto shops and you'd be surprised how many people driving their first sports sedan or car didn't understand how much more everything cost.
Love it!! I did my brakefluid alone and ran out of fluid and didn't notice and I think I damaged my system.. never felt them back as tight as before.. cayenne S 6 pistons per caliper.. whahhh so recommendation is to have plenty of brake fluid on your reservoir!!! GREAT JOB MAN!!!
I like the idea of the ball hone on the rotors so long as they are within spec. New rotors cost $700/ea. I agree, new car manufacturers are designing their new cars to maximize service revenue.
21:51 You can also get rid of this smell by using a long tube (I've used vacuum silicone line before) and spray a disinfectant like Lysol or something that kills bacteria down the vents. (Just lightly a little goes a long way) Then run the heater for about ten minutes or longer. Don't run the A/C when doing this as it is the reason we get that smell from the condensation left in the vents. You can even avoid the smell happening by turning your A/C off for two minutes after you've been driving it with it on and when you park switch it over to non A/C high fan even better use the heater to dry up the condensation in the vents .
Damn Sam, I remember that other RS7 with the nice ass remote exhaust you had.. that video was in my head when I bought this car. I loved it for the few months I had it. Cars and bids was no luck for me and what was supposed to be a quick flip turned into a money pit but I’m glad you were able to get a good deal on this.. even if it was at my expense 🤣👍🏾
I just bought an RS7 performance with the Carbon Ceramic brakes. What a machine!! It’s surprising how few people know about this car. Twin turbo V8 AWD 0-60 in 3.2, and as it turns out, easy to mod for big power. Probably one of the best car purchases I’ve made in a long time!
Great car, great service from Audi!...just make sure there's an active recall otherwise they'll gut you 😉 Everything else though is great, it's good to know that even modern luxury cars which are unfairly locked behind repair walls can be fixed with some creative thinking
Doing your own brake rotor work is fine, but what about the back side of them? I pull them off and use a good old grinder with an easy grit to not grind the heck out of them. I'm mostly getting the ridges off the inside and outside of the rotor on both sides of the rotor.
I’m skeptical of the calibration on the ACC sensors. Given that it’s a safety system that’s not something I’d want to test myself. The labor they were charging was insane we do it much cheaper at my work.
One of the best things about this channel is doing a lot of the work yourself, showing that we can actually still look after our cars with a little research and a small investment in the right tools.
Do not hone your pads if they are below minimum thickness! You can see from the width of those rotors i'd say they're well past replacement. On the hub you should see a min thickness spec which will outline the minimum thickness of these rotors before they need replacing. I wouldn't recommend anybody mess around with this for something as important as brakes on a high performance RS7! Also the rotor has two sides so honing one side like this isn't going to make much of a difference.
Doing the brake scrub is similar to re-cutting tyres. If there is enough material to work with and it's within safe limits after the refurb it's ok. Good job, Sam.
Great looking Audi, alot of high tech, takes a smart guy like you Sam to do it, I really enjoy watching you go thru all of the steps, the rotors on the rear are a safety thing if you're going to keep the car then your fine, but if you're selling the car then you should replace them. Great video Sam keep up the good content.
Sam, it’d be great if you had some kind of sticky on your channel with the recommended tools and devices that you use in your repairs for us to refer back to as your videos progress in time.
Yeah I was really shocked to see a guy who fixed up many high end cars recommend this. Feel like this would be a ghetto tip I'd see on a TH-cam video for my great grandparents 20yr old Chrysler minivan
I had a 2015 short-wheelbase Audi A8 with the 4.0TT engine. Bought it in early 2017 with about 28k miles on it. Really nice car in great shape with every option imaginable. Drove it for 2.5 years and changed the oil at the dealer according to the recommended schedule. Turbos failed at 68k miles - luckily the car was bought in Rhode Island, which is a CARB state. The turbo replacement was fully covered under a 7/70 CARB state emissions warranty. Saved me about $12k in repair costs.
You should find a shop, who recuts the rotors. Usually there should be a number in the casting with the minimum thickness. You replace the cheap ones, but this type is worth recutting.
There are still shops around that will turn rotors, they are just not as easy to find these days. Also, did not see the back side "buffed" with the DIY tool, but I imagine you could have done that. One last note: the intake cleaning is advised on GDI cars and requires a special abrasive service (I think they shoot nut shells through it). I don't think Seafoam works on GDI, but would love your opinion or LegitStreetCars guy's opinion.
It doesn’t work for intake valve cleaning. They’ll sell it to you, but the results are next to nill. Walnut blasting, hand tool scraping is the best practice with direct, visible and performance, results.
Thanks for doing an Audi ! I have 2 2005 Audi allroad 2.7 twin turbo avants , love the cars but working on them is extremely difficult because of the over engineered way they put them together. I know it's an old car now but it would be nice if you could show the tricks to taking them apart. You do make the best car repair videos ! Period.❤
I’ve had an 04 Allroad and a 06 a4 wagon. I really want to get another Allroad because of the interior space but the cost of repairs is leaning towards another A4😢😢
Do you see the big groove in the disk? They are way past the minimum. I alomst have never seen a disk that worn, and he still tries to cheap out...my God.
Just stopped the video to write this comment because It made me chuckle. Sam pushing a tyre inflator for sale yet nearly every car he features has the tpms light on! It bugs the hell out of me but also makes me laugh. Love your videos, keep up with the great work, oh and reset the tpms everyone once in a while!
Greetings from POLAND!!! Just want to point out one thing to you matey! - in this tool for bleeding brakes you should have pressure regulator which means you open valve (that used to put pressure in) fully and use a knob to set to desired pressure. Then it will keep the set pressure for whole process of bleeding without need to check it anymore. Just wanted to let u know coz have same thing. Regards
We need a walk around Sam, talk us through the plans for all your cars, it’s been a while since we had a video doing this? Great video keep up the hard work
An American living in Germany since ‘98 I bought a new used Q5 with only 30,000 miles on it. The dealer gave me a free inspection and the tech associate (all of like 22 yrs old) tried to tell me it needed new brakes all around. I then sat with the service advisor and asked him if he expected me to believe that after only 50k kilometers or 31k miles, the car needed a complete brake job!? We went out and he looked… began to show me and tell me, but I stuck my face in to look myself and told him I didn’t just fall off planet Pluto. Now, do you want me to demand to speak to the service manager right now, or do you want to revise your assessment. He revised it and I said, ok, what are now going to do for me since I did something for you!? I instantly became his favorite customer. But I ONLY take my car to Audi for recall or guarantee services… when my Q5 needed new brakes, I took it an independent service mechanic for way WAY less $$$$.
Appreciate the content you make. Per your comment of oil reset, I've done so on 2 of our 3 VWs. The Service light and Inspection light are separate, if that matters.
@6:53 The break pad sensor wire just opens up the circuit and the electronics does not have to measure any resistance! if it did, an open circuit would be infinite resistance and there would be nothing to measure! Once the circuit opens up, the warning light on the dash lights up! It's really that simple!!!
I think I've seen a couple of your videos from time to time and they've always been pretty good. This one here is actually really really important I think for a lot of people to watch because it shows you just how bad some of the ignorance can be on the internet as well as some of the ignorance of the customers by going to the dealership for everything. I have a friend who has been a mechanic longer than I've been alive and as long as he supplied with the proper parts or knows how to do something, he has no issue with doing it there. The only time I've ever known him to refuse to do something was on a Toyota Tundra and it had something to do with a starter that required and removing basically the engine block or something ridiculous like that. Simple things like this to save thousands upon thousands of dollars, he absolutely loves jobs like this
We are on our second Audi. The oil change/oil service notice is SEPARATE from the "Inspection Dur" message. The oil service can be reset in the "CAR" menu. The Inspection message does require a capable scan tool to reset.
As noted in comments, you really need to check the specs on the rotor, what's the minimum acceptable thickness. You probably dont want your brake rotors cracking and disintegrating. A standard service youd can get in SA (and prob most other countries) is a brake rotor skim; gets sent to a shop where they're put on a lathe and resurfaced. It's a standard thing to do when changing pads unless the disks are REALLY good, costs maybe $30. Flat surface both sides, square, good as new.
The brake disk price of $7,000 is for ceramic brake disks wich cost aprox. $3,500 each, but the ceramic brake pads have been a expensive option on the RS7, they also last min 3x times longer than the regular brake pads. They are also red, but easy to identify as Audi prints in large letters ceramic on them.
I recently bought a cheap 5.0 L Jag XKR convertible. Same story, lots of little services but probably a big bill at the dealer. Spent around $1200 in parts and fluids. Took me about 2 weeks part time to get it all done. Surprisingly a lot of the suspension parts also fit a Lincoln and weren't expensive. Worst part of the job? Scored my knee caps up in the gravel driveway.
Sam, this is honestly a solid channel. You do an excellent job of explaining repairs for DIYers. Everything is clear, concise down to the links for inexpensive tools and parts. I don’t think you get enough appreciation. Thanks for all the great info!
Thank you very much!
@@Samcraci like how he shills subscription products and dangerous brake mods like a cheapskate
What about back side of rotor?
@@Samcracyou must really like rich rebuilds huh ahhaha 😅
3mm sockets are found in precision screwdriver kits with metric bits.
This video is why I like you, you encourage people to do their own work and not always have to replace parts. And you show how to do it with the right tools. You also have a great attitude towards it. Well done man. Thanks.
Love it how he exposes the dealers and their overpriced services.
You can reset the oil change message yourself. There are two messages that you are mixing up. "Inspection Due" and "Service Due". The "Service Due" message you can reset yourself by clicking "Car" by MMI panel, clicking the bottom left quadrant button, "Servicing and Checks", click "Service Intervals", scroll to bottom and click "Reset oil change interval". Takes about 30 seconds at most.
The "Inspection Due" you do have to reset with a VCDS/VAG-COM scanner, but the "Service due" oil change message you can do without any scanner. I also recommend changing the coding from 10,000 mile interval to 5,000 interval so everytime you reset the intervals, they start at 5,000 miles and not 10,000.
W hy make the coding interval sooner than needed?
@@DavidThompson-dr9mb Because who in their right mind would change their oil on an RS7 or any car they drive hard every 10,000 miles, especially DI engines and turbo/supercharged? When I have a car roll into the shop and they follow the 10,000 or 7,500 oil interval from the infotainment, the engine is much more stained compared to those that do 3,750 or 5,000. I can quickly see how clean/stained the engine is by removing the oil cap and looking at the cams and the head surface.
For those interested in the OBD2 scanner, read the fine print for the one Sam's using before committing to the purchase. It will become a brick after the first year if you don't spend another $50 to renew the subscription every year after that. Probably still worth it if you work on cars a lot...
Yeah, 50$/year is not that bad. I would not mind, even if i only work on my one car. Especially if that scanner can really do all the things advertised here.Hell, even Carly is more expensive than that (at least in France)
That also assumes the company stays around long enough to keep the service running...
I saw that right before I bought it, and didn’t buy it.
Thanks for the headsup!
Been looking for an affordable scanner hence I had a early Carly for Android, but now swapped to an Iphone..
Still a good deal, as most of these things cant do VAG oil change resets and similar. You need an 800 dollar autel for this usually.
The dealership wanted over $5k to replace the rotors and brakes on my Audi. I bought 'custom' rotors from a supplier (whom I wouldn't recommend even though the rotors came out fine), new pads + braided lines, scan tool and misc parts/tools for under $3k total. Audi uses a very soft steel on their rotors, so they tend to score and groove worse than other brands or aftermarket.
Additionally, an odd thing about Audi (at least mine) the rear brakes wear a lot faster than the front. The theory is that the adaptive cruise control and low speed braking use the rear brake bias to slow the car so you don't have that jerky lurch forward in stop and go traffic.
VW Group cars all bias braking to the rear, so the rear pads always wear out first. I've owned 4 of their cars and all 4 needed rear brakes done well before the fronts.
the rear brake is also used as a parking brake as well
all my cars always needed front pads way before the rears but not my VW. that car wore out rear pads before the front. as a side note I suspected the dealer did not rotate my tires because the brake dust was significantly worse on the front after the rotation. turns out becuse the rear brakes work so hard the rear wheels get more brake dust than the front ones. only car I've ever owned that does this.
@@robertzalnis3162 Bought a vintage VW super beetle once. Same issue. Maybe the previous owner was driving it backwards?
@@robertzalnis3162 My wife's 2010 Q5 front brakes get worse dust than the back discs. I get to clean the wheels....
Development engineer for radars here :) To calibrate the radars you can pop off the cap and use the mirror behind it with a simple cross laser. Park on flat surface, and use a target board in from of the vehicle with a mark at the same height with the mirror. For horizontal alignment, you can just use a tube behind the rear wheels and get that axis projected to the front, and you can set the distance between the mirror and the reflected laser vertical line to be parallel with that. This is the simplest way usually, and if your radar doesn't have a mirror but a flat front face, you can still attach a small mirror with a piece of tape on top of that.
complicated as fuck
Haha "engineer here" is the saying when everything becomes more complicated and obnoxious than it needs to be.
Easier said than done.
Bro…. What?
I didn’t understand any of that but thanks for sharing
You need a cheap digital caliper set. You could check the thickness of the rotors yourself and know if they are worth refinishing or replacing.
How is he going to fix the vertical fracture in the rear rotor I saw on the video? He should have bought new rear rotors.
Always replace modern cars rotors. Refinishing only makes them thinner. You're just kicking the can down the road.
@@Drofthechalice🥃🥃 every time I go to the dealer to do my brakes in my bmw x5 with m3 brakes they always change my rotors for that reason 🥃🥃 I mean if u got these sport luxury cars u gotta know what comes with it 🥃🏁🏁🚩
17:37 PUFFIN ON ZOOTIEZ
Sam, you're truly a man of culture 🤝
Turn yo clique up right after
You don’t know that one do ya but Sam sure does
@@nickmarshall2676 ok nerd
lmao that song is different
Came right to the comment section when I saw this 😂
I was looking at that too lol
I think it was a good temporary solution. Definitely replace the rotors at some point down the line.
They were not even that worn and still perfectly fine! You can measure them to know when need replacements
Agreed. I think it’s safe to do this one time. After that replace the rotors. Still a 50% savings on $700 rotors which brings it to what is in my opinion, a reasonable number
@@p__jay I’m hoping they will last a brake pad cycle. It’s just to make sure he’s safe.
Nope he should have replaced them theres a massive lip near the hub of the rotor
@@jamesclark4 haha thats far from "massive"
Great vid, thanks Sam. Audi engineers are the best, no question about it. They managed to develop an interchangeable steering wheel from left to right and back at the touch of a button 18:09...
Now that you mention it...he's also driving on the left side of that highway...LOL
Front phone camera's shows image in mirror...
I never knew a Honing-Tool for a rotors existed. THANKS SAMCRAC!!! You are the best Good-Sir!
you gotta be careful: if you don't keep it even you'll get pedal pulse since the surface of the rotor isn't even.
Definitely measure the minimum thickness of those rotors, as long as there in spec and you don't have abnormal vibration your brake job should be just fine.
I agree 💯 measure them and stick the new pads in there are people out there that can skim and check balance on your disks 👍🏴
I think the ball hone is fine as long as the rotors aren't warped and the thickness is within spec. The ball will take off any glaze and help the pads seat.
Did he do the backside?
@@Blasterxp Who doesn't?
@@markg.2501 He didn't appear to pull the rotors and started the car to make it easier, so I'd say HE didn't
@@Blasterxp theres a short sequence in the video where he does the inner side of the brake rotor
Rotors don’t warp
I am amazed that you haven’t removed the wear lips on those rotors. Hillbilly’s do it by turning the rotors just like you did and the use an angle grinder to carefully remove the wear rim. A little more care as in direction of rotation when cutting the wavy rotors but it can be done. Love your channel and how simple it can be to repair things on even late model cars after using the old grey matter to work things out and get the right info before attempting thing.
Sam can’t resist a ‘bargain’ but it always makes for good watching
Can see the cracks in the rotors 😂 Tight arse
@@presleyshand4156where? Some pitting sure, definitely no issue. You idiots are funny.
@@notsoeloquent 11:08 obvious
@@presleyshand4156 You need a better screen. It's Black Friday so help yourself.
From everything I understood that he was in debt. A shame. Why does he want to be a slave to the bank with something he doesn't need? It even shows us how much it has to give back. TH-cam has taken his brain.
Nice work. Those rotors WILL need to be replaced one day, but being single piston rears (I'm surprised at that) it may actually be 5 years before you need to do that!
find disc specs and measure thickness to see if they are within wear limits
I'd even question that. Why? Because I wouldn't put it past an OEM to say "replace replace replace" new rotors even if they are only worn 1mm off new.
New rotors: 8.7295 mm
MUST REPLACE ROTORS DANGER DANGER DANGER when the rotors are 8.2235 mm
The most important question about your rotors is what was the measurement of how thick the rotors were? All manufacturers give a limit to wear on rotors (discs). If the rotors are below the minimum measurement then they have to be changed.
And just out of interest, how did you manage to do the backside of the rotor with the honing tool?
he was keeping it where the caliper sits.
Those rotors are way under spec for sure .
I was wondering g the same thing about the backside of the rotor!
@@stuartfact8361 Me three. Backs of the rotors would still be in rough shape, right?
Haha... Me four!
6:50 Most likely causing an open. Technically this is resistance. It is infinite resistance.
Ask a lightning bolt about "infinite resistance" 😆
Really enjoying your videos!
BMW dealer tech here, some of the prices we charge are insane. We’re at price level 14 on parts (that means 14 levels over MSRP) and over $260 an hour in labor. A normal front and rear brake job with pads and rotors can go for over $3k for just a regular every day car. M cars are an even bigger price hike. It’s absolutely crazy
People need to stop buying bmw cars. 😢
LOL $1K on ECS tuning gives you good rotors and ceramic pads and you'll need the VAGCOM (or this OBD-2 Tool) to do the back brakes. IDK how you guys are spending $3K on pads and rotors for Audis LMAO Unless you have the RS6, RS7, or R8 platforms it doesn't make sense.
The A-Line Audis don't.
i work at Audi Tampa LOL! Was shocked to see our lot in this video. Nice RS7 Sam ive been a fan since the S600 days.
Here in New Zealand you can call a brake skimming company, they remove the rotors and skim off the ridges
There are still places in the US that do it too. I’m sure the dealers don’t but other places do. Not sure what he is talking about.
@@jimhimesjr At our dealership we resurface rotors at most once and only if there isn't a huge lip on the rotor. These rotors I definitely wouldn't skim. They're very thin to keep weight down so by the time you resurface you may be at minimum spec, and also the shape will interfere with our resurfacing machine. We only resurface regular rotors.
Sam doesn't know about Mexico and the zillion things that he can do here for much much less money.
At autozone where I am they offer rotor resurfacing
Only makes sense for expensive rotors though
OBD11 allows you to work on your audi and reset your oil change lights among a bunch of other things. Plus it reads ALL the codes for your car. Best $100 I ever spent for my Q5
The amount of money you saved working on the car yourself is insane....i love it
Sam what a great channel you have going on here. Thanks for going into detail and sharing all these tips n tricks (Inlcuding the tools). keep'em coming... we will keep on watching!
I think these cars are beautiful. If I wasn't so scared of the maintenance I'd buy one.
Thanks Sam for the helpful tips on how not to ripped off by the dealers!
Always enjoy watching your videos mate. Keep going and I just bought one of those obd scanners. Can't believe how cheap it was.
I just got this like a week ago. I have used so many different scan tools, and many that are the inexpensive Bluetooth to your phone type.
Almost every Bluetooth one comes with some compromise, either they can't scan all systems or they can only do it on a few makes. This one is truly a game changer and it's price point is insane. The next cheapest one that's as capable as this one is around $400 that I found. So far I've used it on 2 Range Rovers, and this Audi and its been 👍👍👍
@@Samcracso Carly is a no go now?
@@Jmoraaevery time I've shown Carly I always mentioned how good it is specifically for VW, Audi, and BMW. They've recently expanded it's capability to include more models, but with the release of this Topscan, so far, the Topscan outshines it in most metrics. Topscan is a bit more "technical," and Carly might have an easier interface, but Topscan can do more, on more cars, for less money.
You don't need a brake rotor turning tool to turn the rotors. Any standard manual lathe with a 15"+ swing will surface them. Then once surfaced, you have the lathe spinning slow, and give the rotor a gentle buff with a 40 or 60 grit flapper wheel. Cover your lathe bed with newspaper before you do that.
I have not read all of the comments on this, but I was wondering about why you couldn't just have these rotors turned either with a lathe designed for this purpose or a conventional lathe like you suggest.
Sam’s content been great lately
I commend you on your patience in dealing with all these car projects! I am amazed and enjoy hearing how you dissect and sleuth through the issues and solutions.
Enjoyable channel!
The dealerships need to wake up. With new car prices soaring service costs need to stay down or you'll drive customers away. There loss is a private shops gain. Great video as always. Hope you have a Happy and safe Thanksgiving Sam and everyone else who reads this.
They've thought of that, and now make many service jobs impossible to do except at the dealership.
I think most of the people who would purchase a car like this new make an amount of money that they would lose money by spending time doing the repair. The dealer hopes to get its money out of the first couple owners before the car ends up mechanically totaled. hilariously the insane used car market will keep cars like this on the road a lot longer than in the past.
I always recommend looking up the cost of things like tires and brakes, before buying a car. When I was in my 20's, I worked at some independent and dealer auto shops and you'd be surprised how many people driving their first sports sedan or car didn't understand how much more everything cost.
Love it!! I did my brakefluid alone and ran out of fluid and didn't notice and I think I damaged my system.. never felt them back as tight as before.. cayenne S 6 pistons per caliper.. whahhh so recommendation is to have plenty of brake fluid on your reservoir!!! GREAT JOB MAN!!!
I like the idea of the ball hone on the rotors so long as they are within spec. New rotors cost $700/ea. I agree, new car manufacturers are designing their new cars to maximize service revenue.
21:51 You can also get rid of this smell by using a long tube (I've used vacuum silicone line before) and spray a disinfectant like Lysol or something that kills bacteria down the vents. (Just lightly a little goes a long way) Then run the heater for about ten minutes or longer. Don't run the A/C when doing this as it is the reason we get that smell from the condensation left in the vents. You can even avoid the smell happening by turning your A/C off for two minutes after you've been driving it with it on and when you park switch it over to non A/C high fan even better use the heater to dry up the condensation in the vents .
Damn Sam, I remember that other RS7 with the nice ass remote exhaust you had.. that video was in my head when I bought this car. I loved it for the few months I had it. Cars and bids was no luck for me and what was supposed to be a quick flip turned into a money pit but I’m glad you were able to get a good deal on this.. even if it was at my expense 🤣👍🏾
That was the car Rich got
Sam championing DIY car maintenance across the globe. Love it.
With that pad to rotor cost ratio keep throwing pad at is as long as the stoping is good. One rotor pays for 20 sets of pads.
Ya if you buy those turd pads
Extremely knowledgeable, informative and respectful video.
I just bought an RS7 performance with the Carbon Ceramic brakes. What a machine!! It’s surprising how few people know about this car. Twin turbo V8 AWD 0-60 in 3.2, and as it turns out, easy to mod for big power. Probably one of the best car purchases I’ve made in a long time!
I agree.. I got a new bmw x5 .. and my boy was telling me about the rs7 boyyyy I gotta get that car next year!🥃
Man .. Audi RS7 is my dream car . Beautiful car , I bet it drives like a dream .
Great car, great service from Audi!...just make sure there's an active recall otherwise they'll gut you 😉
Everything else though is great, it's good to know that even modern luxury cars which are unfairly locked behind repair walls can be fixed with some creative thinking
Same process on the A8. Same scanner and it works great on many cars. Totally recommend it.
Doing your own brake rotor work is fine, but what about the back side of them? I pull them off and use a good old grinder with an easy grit to not grind the heck out of them. I'm mostly getting the ridges off the inside and outside of the rotor on both sides of the rotor.
We did the backs that's why I showed the inside
Nicely done. You are kicking out some quality content lately. Keep it up chicken boy.
I’m skeptical of the calibration on the ACC sensors. Given that it’s a safety system that’s not something I’d want to test myself. The labor they were charging was insane we do it much cheaper at my work.
He put it within spec, and we know the system refuses to engage when out of spec so I don't see any issue.
One of the best things about this channel is doing a lot of the work yourself, showing that we can actually still look after our cars with a little research and a small investment in the right tools.
Do not hone your pads if they are below minimum thickness! You can see from the width of those rotors i'd say they're well past replacement. On the hub you should see a min thickness spec which will outline the minimum thickness of these rotors before they need replacing. I wouldn't recommend anybody mess around with this for something as important as brakes on a high performance RS7! Also the rotor has two sides so honing one side like this isn't going to make much of a difference.
the rear rotor are not as thick as the front.he will be fine for another year.for sure he will sell the car not his problem.
I see you Sam!!! The song puffin on zooties on the radio 17:31 ! Shout out to future !
been considering either a rs5 or rs7. awesome vids.
Make Sam an offer?
very good solution for the brake rotors !
Doing the brake scrub is similar to re-cutting tyres. If there is enough material to work with and it's within safe limits after the refurb it's ok. Good job, Sam.
Didn’t see him doing the backside of those rotors.
@@robertf9521 @10:30 he's clearly under the car doing the opposite side.
Great looking Audi, alot of high tech, takes a smart guy like you Sam to do it, I really enjoy watching you go thru all of the steps, the rotors on the rear are a safety thing if you're going to keep the car then your fine, but if you're selling the car then you should replace them. Great video Sam keep up the good content.
Sam, it’d be great if you had some kind of sticky on your channel with the recommended tools and devices that you use in your repairs for us to refer back to as your videos progress in time.
Thanks for the idea!
Sam, When I do my brakes, I remove the disc and grind the lips off with a flap disc, been doing it for years.
When you turn rotors, the tolerances are very finely set. If you randomly hone a rotor it will likely vibrate.
Yeah I was really shocked to see a guy who fixed up many high end cars recommend this. Feel like this would be a ghetto tip I'd see on a TH-cam video for my great grandparents 20yr old Chrysler minivan
I had a 2015 short-wheelbase Audi A8 with the 4.0TT engine. Bought it in early 2017 with about 28k miles on it. Really nice car in great shape with every option imaginable. Drove it for 2.5 years and changed the oil at the dealer according to the recommended schedule. Turbos failed at 68k miles - luckily the car was bought in Rhode Island, which is a CARB state. The turbo replacement was fully covered under a 7/70 CARB state emissions warranty. Saved me about $12k in repair costs.
If the discs are still thick enough, they can be smoothed on a metal lathe. People do this often.
You should find a shop, who recuts the rotors. Usually there should be a number in the casting with the minimum thickness. You replace the cheap ones, but this type is worth recutting.
There are still shops around that will turn rotors, they are just not as easy to find these days. Also, did not see the back side "buffed" with the DIY tool, but I imagine you could have done that. One last note: the intake cleaning is advised on GDI cars and requires a special abrasive service (I think they shoot nut shells through it). I don't think Seafoam works on GDI, but would love your opinion or LegitStreetCars guy's opinion.
It doesn’t work for intake valve cleaning. They’ll sell it to you, but the results are next to nill. Walnut blasting, hand tool scraping is the best practice with direct, visible and performance, results.
17:39 - "Puffin On Zootiez" ????
What the hell is that message ? 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for doing an Audi ! I have 2 2005 Audi allroad 2.7 twin turbo avants , love the cars but working on them is extremely difficult because of the over engineered way they put them together. I know it's an old car now but it would be nice if you could show the tricks to taking them apart. You do make the best car repair videos ! Period.❤
I’ve had an 04 Allroad and a 06 a4 wagon. I really want to get another Allroad because of the interior space but the cost of repairs is leaning towards another A4😢😢
Whoever is watching this video, never give up on your dreams.😇
Love Sam's music choice @17:30 PUFFIN ON ZOOTIES. HAHA😂
Replace vs honing all comes down to how much rotor was left. If they were within spec, then no need to replace, imo.
Do you see the big groove in the disk? They are way past the minimum. I alomst have never seen a disk that worn, and he still tries to cheap out...my God.
@@karlos1060 You must work for VAG....
@@karlos1060 nonsense
@@matthiasweigel311 It's clear you know nothing about regulations...thats fine.
@@Charlie_Crown the only nonscense is your word.
Just stopped the video to write this comment because It made me chuckle. Sam pushing a tyre inflator for sale yet nearly every car he features has the tpms light on! It bugs the hell out of me but also makes me laugh. Love your videos, keep up with the great work, oh and reset the tpms everyone once in a while!
Greetings from POLAND!!! Just want to point out one thing to you matey! - in this tool for bleeding brakes you should have pressure regulator which means you open valve (that used to put pressure in) fully and use a knob to set to desired pressure. Then it will keep the set pressure for whole process of bleeding without need to check it anymore. Just wanted to let u know coz have same thing. Regards
I use a flap disc on my rotors almost every time I do pads just to remove lips and give the new pads a fresh break in service
breaks are simple, when they start do make TERRIBLE noises, it's time to change.
I waited till that happened and then I waited a few more days cuz I’m lazy and it stained of of my wheels with rust. It’d baked on from the heat
We need a walk around Sam, talk us through the plans for all your cars, it’s been a while since we had a video doing this? Great video keep up the hard work
An American living in Germany since ‘98 I bought a new used Q5 with only 30,000 miles on it. The dealer gave me a free inspection and the tech associate (all of like 22 yrs old) tried to tell me it needed new brakes all around. I then sat with the service advisor and asked him if he expected me to believe that after only 50k kilometers or 31k miles, the car needed a complete brake job!? We went out and he looked… began to show me and tell me, but I stuck my face in to look myself and told him I didn’t just fall off planet Pluto. Now, do you want me to demand to speak to the service manager right now, or do you want to revise your assessment. He revised it and I said, ok, what are now going to do for me since I did something for you!? I instantly became his favorite customer. But I ONLY take my car to Audi for recall or guarantee services… when my Q5 needed new brakes, I took it an independent service mechanic for way WAY less $$$$.
That's what I do for my BMW. Dealer quoted me $1200 to replace the radiator. My independent mechanic only charged me $650.
@@hotsauce256 Hit it with ur purse and do it yourself for less than $200 cupcake
8:54 that brake disc is looking ruff and groovy !
This RS7 reminds me of the Grey RS7 which is the one reason which I subscribed to your channel years ago!
17:40 no way he was listening to puffin on zooties 😂😂
You got a killer deal on an amazing, very fast vehicle. RS7 is my dream car. Amazing luxury and speed all in one.
Enjoyed it, thanks fir all the hints!
Blows me away that independent shops get cars that the dealers can’t fix. A lot of dealers fire the parts cannon and say, oh well it didn’t work!
Sam, I wish I had your videos when I was young. Thanks, I love all your videos.
You’re the best car guy I’ve ever seen. Needless to say Best Buy and seller. I wish I could be in your category sir. I’m still selling 2005 Honda.
Appreciate the content you make. Per your comment of oil reset, I've done so on 2 of our 3 VWs. The Service light and Inspection light are separate, if that matters.
HOLY SMOKES!!! At 6:02 I freaked out! I thought I was about to get eaten by a velociraptor!
LOVE your channel!!!!! I appreciate your brilliant logic and genius hacks
I do pad slaps all the time. Never had issues. I enjoy that you jailbreaked this car, makes me want to by one now.
I ordered two of the vacuum’s and the tire inflator using your links. The vacuums just arrived at my door. These will really come in handy!
@6:53 The break pad sensor wire just opens up the circuit and the electronics does not have to measure any resistance! if it did, an open circuit would be infinite resistance and there would be nothing to measure! Once the circuit opens up, the warning light on the dash lights up! It's really that simple!!!
I think I've seen a couple of your videos from time to time and they've always been pretty good. This one here is actually really really important I think for a lot of people to watch because it shows you just how bad some of the ignorance can be on the internet as well as some of the ignorance of the customers by going to the dealership for everything. I have a friend who has been a mechanic longer than I've been alive and as long as he supplied with the proper parts or knows how to do something, he has no issue with doing it there. The only time I've ever known him to refuse to do something was on a Toyota Tundra and it had something to do with a starter that required and removing basically the engine block or something ridiculous like that. Simple things like this to save thousands upon thousands of dollars, he absolutely loves jobs like this
dude, greetings from Austria, thanks for sharing your wast knowledge! Love Audi :)
Oh man I love the music selection on the dash!!!! Turn yo clic up!!!! Puffin on zootiez!!!
We are on our second Audi. The oil change/oil service notice is SEPARATE from the "Inspection Dur" message. The oil service can be reset in the "CAR" menu. The Inspection message does require a capable scan tool to reset.
love the music selection on the dash lol 17:39
I can definitely picture Samcrac blasting Turn Yo Clic up while speeding down the highway 🤣😂
I have done this before on much less expensive vehicles. (sanding the rotors) It worked great.
Just bought that brake flush kit. Great info, thanks!
Glad it helped
As noted in comments, you really need to check the specs on the rotor, what's the minimum acceptable thickness. You probably dont want your brake rotors cracking and disintegrating.
A standard service youd can get in SA (and prob most other countries) is a brake rotor skim; gets sent to a shop where they're put on a lathe and resurfaced. It's a standard thing to do when changing pads unless the disks are REALLY good, costs maybe $30. Flat surface both sides, square, good as new.
The brake disk price of $7,000 is for ceramic brake disks wich cost aprox. $3,500 each, but the ceramic brake pads have been a expensive option on the RS7, they also last min 3x times longer than the regular brake pads. They are also red, but easy to identify as Audi prints in large letters ceramic on them.
Haven’t watched in a long time but good to see Sam is still just one giant advertisement for junk! I’ll check back in next year.
I recently bought a cheap 5.0 L Jag XKR convertible. Same story, lots of little services but probably a big bill at the dealer. Spent around $1200 in parts and fluids. Took me about 2 weeks part time to get it all done. Surprisingly a lot of the suspension parts also fit a Lincoln and weren't expensive. Worst part of the job? Scored my knee caps up in the gravel driveway.