I know this is a little old but the only thing I can think that would make someone give a thumbs down is that the venting system is kind of useless unless the battery boxes are sealed. Slim did seal the small vents on the battery box tops but those tops are open at four points to let the battery cables through. And, even if they were closed off, the edges would need some kind of gasket around the box top to make it air tight. That said, I myself used Slim's method to make my own vented battery box and gave Slim a hardy thumbs up for the video.
Giving a video a thumb down is a good way of letting TH-cam know it shouldn't suggest you videos with a similar topic. Having only 1% of the thumbs down is pretty darn good!
After many years with lead-acid deep cycle, I am experimenting with a couple of lithium batteries (360 amp hours) inside my house, charging with exterior solar panels. Expensive, but many advantages, and the price will come down. As you probably know lithium batteries can be routinely discharged to 10-20% without affecting their lifespan. Love your series!
I've been watching your videos for a while, they're just wonderful, and in high quality. Incidentally, I use for the video editing "Sony Vegas" here there is also a simple version for about $ 50 I also used a trailer years ago. At that time, there were no solar panels or charge controllers for $ 10. What surprised me, in your car is a generator with high power, but unused for the trailer. This was also me Problem. Here I have thought about how I can operate my 100W refrigerator while driving. In addition, I come from the electrical profession and basically can calculate everything. One of the problems to be solved was that the 8m to the trailer battery are much too long, for thin (normal) lines. The second problem was that the 100W is so much power that the engine has to run to not remove the power from the car battery. Solution: A car Relay - 30 amp with built-in fuse (or extra) . This relay has been connected to the ignition coil, so that it is the first problem solving, it is only active if the engine is running. Before the line goes on, another 300 Amp diode and a shunt (Special Resistor) for an Ampere meter were added. The second problem was easier to solve, I pulled a thick 16mm² (AWG 5 or 4 ) wire from the relay, behind of the diode, to the socket for the trailer, all the way through the whole car. There I made another high current plug connection to the trailer. Here, the fridge was supplied by 12 V and 100W while driving. You could improve this circuit with new electronics to load the Trailerbattery and so on..., but maybe it's an idea that is especially useful for campers who are more driving than staying in one same place. For the circuit in the car, if necessary, consult a car electrician. For Details i can draw a Circurit.
Hi Slim, Great idea with moving your battery inside and professional install, the gasses will move out irregardless of the pipe angle and gasses are only produced during charging, I would have made the 1.5" pipe slightly upward to prevent water coming in. Slim you are very innovative and possess a lot of common sense. Well done!
When I mounted my battery inside I did it for two reasons, one was to keep it warm in winter to get more amp hours out of it, but mainly to allow for two bike racks on the tongue. For the battery I purchased an AGM deep cycle and it only charges through my very good MPPT solar charge controller, even when in tow via a 12 to 19volt 8amp converter that swaps from solar panels to car when in tow. AGM's will not off gas so long as the charger does no wrong. For balance my battery is just behind and inside of the door side (right side) wheel well. It helps balance my trailer left to right, and being as close to the axle as I could get it does not impact the balance so much or stress the frame. The balance is affected by taking a 70 lb battery off the tongue, which is put back in balance by 70ish lbs of bikes and racks. On the tongue I switched to twin 11 lb propane tanks and moved them forward to battery location, and the bike racks are where the propane tanks were. I have an old pair of Yakima roof rack mounted bike racks, with some aluminum tubing they now easily bolt and unbolt to the tongue. The bikes stay low and in view when I am towing, and do not not interfere with the roof. I may try to mount a hitch mount bike rack so that when I want to leave the trailer and take the bikes I can more easily transplant a hitch mount rack to the car than the roof rack mounts. Also its not easy getting a bike on top of my Subaru Outback, the new ones are quite a bit taller than the older models. In Winter I was thinking the space on the tongue could be used for my small generator and fuel. Thus far I have not had issue with just my 100 amp hour battery and 200 watts of solar panel, even winter camping. But I have been "lucky" to have only winter camped in my Aliner in really cold weather, which means clear skies.... and 13+ amps charging current off solar.
Thanks Jeffrey. I managed to mount the bike yesterday, but will not release a video until it's been given a good road test. Still have spot where the battery was on the tongue, which I'm thinking of putting a gas can painted black to hold water. That way I can get warm water anytime I'm out in a hot sunny day.
Deep cycle, as well as many starter batteries as trunk mounting is becoming more common, have a small hole for a vent nipple (hole might be plugged with a small plastic plug from factory) that you hook up a thin hose (like for windscreen asher fluid) to. For multiple batteries use T or Y connectors on the hose. If the vent is plugged, the caps should be vented, but sealed caps should be available for use when the vent is used, check with the dealer.
Great idea Slim, I’ll give you a heads up after the fact; you can do this ventilation another way by mounting a 120mm x12v silent computer fan on the inside of your box ( mounts with 4 screws) cut the appropriate hole (1 1/2”-3”) & cover the outside hole with a screened vent cover sized like your door vent, run it off your battery to an accessible switch outside your battery box. When at a camp spot, (not moving) , switch it on to vent, when traveling , switch it off, the moving air flow will vent it. Shalom!
Nice looking installation but a question; your battery boxes are NOT airtight? They flare-out in the corners to allow the battery cables a way out of the box, the hydrogen gas you are trying to vent can also escape through these wide areas. You may have been better to simply vent the entire compartment under the cushion (no need for plumbing) allowing the hydrogen to accumulate in the entire compartment then vent out the top in the vent you installed.
Found your channel and subscribed. I want to Boondock more now, but have been thinking about moving my 2 batteries inside, and adding two more to the bank. Way cool. Thanks Slim. :)
nice video, but I would think that you would slope the pipe outside to allow any moisture that accumulated to to drain out side, any gases would still vent
Hi Dave. Hmmm, that's a thought. Easy to tweak. I am planning a long road trip, so I'll see how much moisture I get and if a little adjustment is needed. Thanks!
I know I’m late. My Chalet had the battery inside from the factory and had venting in the bottom as well as the top for cross venting the box. Hydrogen won’t fully vent if you don’t allow air back in, is the theory.
You're so smart to come up with this stuff and you've done to many changes so far. Anything else left to do? The tongue space is to small for a Jacuzzi, but I'll know you find some way to install one some day....LOL
Great idea, Slim. I too moved my battery inside my aliner, but I upgraded to an AGM battery that is sealed and needs no venting. One concern I have is that it is on the left side of the trailer and it weighs about 65 lbs. The water tank is also on the left side and it puts more weight on that side without counter balancing weight on the right. Probably no big deal.
Great video! I have been thinking about doing this to our traditional pop up, but never wanted to invest in new battery boxes with vents. This is a great solution and may give it a shot.
Great video! I totally recommend anyone do this for their LiFePo4 batteries too, in case they fail and their valve vents electrolyte gases - you want that sent outside for fire safety and your health.
Impressive and nicely done as usual . We've always used AGM batteries which didn't require venting... but then on our Aliner, we never had it sealed as tightly as you have yours... Fair weather campers !
Unless I misunderstood you, I would have thought that you'd want the vent pipe to slope down going out to the vent. This would allow for any condensation to flow out of the pipe and not pool towards the capped end.
Nice idea on the battery relocation and venting. My only suggestion (being a 40 year career plumber) would have been to use all pvc water pipe fittings and tee's to simplify the assembly.
Absolutely! There are so many ways this can be done, I used what I could find at any hardware store (Lowes in this case). They didn't have short lengths of 1 1/2" PVC which is why I went to ABS. Maybe Home Depot! Thanks
Your videos are very informative, thank you very much. Have you thought the draft of air might be pushed back to the battery boxes and into your cabin?
Hi Doc, the battery box vent has the rain guard sloped about 30 degrees to the front. Since I always face the trailer into the wind, this pretty well blocks it. Also, in real rough wind there is guaranteed circulation from the gaps where the walls meet the frame. Thanks! SP
The question I would have concerns the tubing vibrating loose! I know you travel some rough roads and wonder if you check it every stop or not! Let us know in a follow up!
Good idea, but here are some ways to do it differently. Use Flexible Liquid Tight Conduit and connectors for the bent parts, getting those two elbows lined up is fussy, flex connections are easy to do one at a time. Keep using the straps to secure the battery box covers. Use more than wood screws, bolt the battery boxes down with good size bolts through the floor. If you hit some big bumps you might spill acid, or short circuit on some metal in the trailer. I think there might be issues with weight distribution and tracking with both batteries on the same side, but I don't know how well the Aliners do when out of balance.
Hi J, I actually looked into the Flexible Liquid Tight Conduit, but found it not flexible enough for such a small area. The batteries have 4 screws each, and the one has been installed for almost two years there without issues, but more secure is always a good idea. I keep all my heavy tools on the other side so it evens out quite well. Thanks for the tips!
I know that it can be hard to do a sharp turn with flex conduit, but if you give it more length it should be doable. The reason I think that would be the way to go is that you can leave the flex connected to the battery box top as you open it to check the battery water level. Sort of like the way you can leave the air intake hose connected to your car's air filter box while you are checking the filter on your car engine. But I'm probably over engineering this, it's just an air vent.
drilling holes in the bottom of the box is not a good idea.one of the functions of the box is to retain any electrolyte that could spill out.drilling holes negates the integrity.fastening some pad eyes or even screw eyes to the floor and then strapping them down is far stronger and more stable than a couple short screws.
I'm planning two deep cycle batteries under my seats. I'm also concerned (as some mention below) about weight distribution. I'm hoping to get one battery on each side of the front dinette. I understand adding weight in heavy tools. Kind of a good excuse to add way more tools to the kit.
Thx for more good ideas. I hope you'll give us a mini update in a year on how those battery boxes & vent pipe is doing after traveling to all your cool 😎 camping spots. Maybe road conditions in Canada are better, but roadways in the US are in poor shape. Also, did you have to redo any wiring, or were you able to just reuse your solar storage battery wiring for both? Did you install some sort of cutoff switch for your batteries (thinking ghost battery hogs like those gas/propane leak detectors that kill batteries when parked between camping trips)?
Hi Karin, for sure I will update as I travel. I will be on those awful US roads shortly! Wiring was just shortened, and new MC4 connectors for the solar. No cutoff needed, as solar keeps battery fully charged when not in use (stored outside). Thanks!
Great Video for sure, I'm curious how you feel after a couple years disassembling that vent set up in order to water your batteries on a regular basis? That's the only downside I could see from this.
@@SlimPotatohead the reason you vent lead acid batteries is they produce gas, the water levels go down over time, if you don't water them the lead gets exposed to air and corrodes and kills your battery. That's why the caps on the batteries come off.
Sorry Kurtis, I thought you were referring to water coming through the vent from outside. Topping the cell levels, yes. Not too big an issue, as it came apart quite easily. Currently I do not use deep cycle, switched to AGM. No more venting issues. Thanks! SP
you are like the bob vila of rv's I like the videos, I can never wrap my head around people with one battery, in America they are so dirt cheap you can get a couple more in there. Im going for 4 105 amp hour rv batteries and 400 watts on top, I will stay tuned :)
I think batteries belong outside. It’s not just venting, it’s malfunction and fire. But, nice installation. How airtight are battery boxes? How much weight on side now?
Hi Constance, I think if your battery is well maintained there shouldn't be problems. Most of my research into battery issues were with poorly maintained batteries. Perhaps I could put a link on proper battery maintenance if I find a good source. The boxes are not airtight, nor should they be. Air has to flow in, vapors out. I don't use the water tank so the balance on that side should be fine. Thanks!
Keep in mind balance, you adding additional weight on the side, could cause a uneven wear and tracking. I would never install batteries on the inside, I've see a battery short out and explode.
Hi Barry, I actually needed more weight on that side as I don't use the water tank. With proper venting and secure connections I consider the risk is very low of any explosions. More risk from using propane and 110v outlets in a trailer! Thanks
Are these agm batteries. I am getting conflicting info. I bought ub121000 have 3 in bus no vents but now want to just add batteries boxes and a vent hole to be sure.
Through the years you've made quite a few changes. It would probably be a good idea to take the trailer to a scale and find the weights on each wheel and the tongue. You want to be sure to have at least 10%-15% weight on the tongue.
Hi Allen, good point. I have made a conscious effort to remove weight from the back (bending frame issue) and am adding a bike and rack to the tongue. May have room for a box on the tongue as well now the battery's not there. Thanks!
Nice but you forgot one thing: Outside air needs to enter the battery boxes from the bottom of the boxes. I don't see where you have provided that feature.
Not to mention he just created wholes in the floor albeit it is skewed into the floor so hopefully these batteries don't have acid in them seep through the gaps and cause acid damage underneath why outside is safer.
that kind of battery box top has built in vents that face downward,so the battery gases still flow into the interior of the rv,making all that piping worthless.
I am just surprised about that RV venting concern: I own two different '80s sailboats and none of them got vented batteries, neither I saw such venting setup on any other sailboat...
its not a bad idea if the batteries are in the living space.if your batteries are in the engine room or engine compartment there should be no problem.batteries give off a small amount of hydrogen gas when charging.so in a ventilated engine space there wouldnt be any build up.
I don’t understand why anyone would give this guy a thumbs down... awesome videos always relaxes me after a days work to watch this guy
They probably just had fat fingers and accidentally pressed it. Only logical answer lol
I know this is a little old but the only thing I can think that would make someone give a thumbs down is that the venting system is kind of useless unless the battery boxes are sealed. Slim did seal the small vents on the battery box tops but those tops are open at four points to let the battery cables through. And, even if they were closed off, the edges would need some kind of gasket around the box top to make it air tight. That said, I myself used Slim's method to make my own vented battery box and gave Slim a hardy thumbs up for the video.
Giving a video a thumb down is a good way of letting TH-cam know it shouldn't suggest you videos with a similar topic. Having only 1% of the thumbs down is pretty darn good!
After many years with lead-acid deep cycle, I am experimenting with a couple of lithium batteries (360 amp hours) inside my house, charging with exterior solar panels. Expensive, but many advantages, and the price will come down. As you probably know lithium batteries can be routinely discharged to 10-20% without affecting their lifespan. Love your series!
I've been watching your videos for a while, they're just wonderful, and in high quality.
Incidentally, I use for the video editing "Sony Vegas" here there is also a simple version for about $ 50
I also used a trailer years ago.
At that time, there were no solar panels or charge controllers for $ 10.
What surprised me, in your car is a generator with high power, but unused for the trailer. This was also me Problem. Here I have thought about how I can operate my 100W refrigerator while driving.
In addition, I come from the electrical profession and basically can calculate everything.
One of the problems to be solved was that the 8m to the trailer battery are much too long, for thin (normal) lines. The second problem was that the 100W is so much power that the engine has to run to not remove the power from the car battery.
Solution:
A car Relay - 30 amp with built-in fuse (or extra) . This relay has been connected to the ignition coil, so that it is the first problem solving, it is only active if the engine is running.
Before the line goes on, another 300 Amp diode and a shunt (Special Resistor) for an Ampere meter were added.
The second problem was easier to solve, I pulled a thick 16mm² (AWG 5 or 4 ) wire from the relay, behind of the diode, to the socket for the trailer, all the way through the whole car.
There I made another high current plug connection to the trailer. Here, the fridge was supplied by 12 V and 100W while driving.
You could improve this circuit with new electronics to load the Trailerbattery and so on..., but maybe it's an idea that is especially useful for campers who are more driving than staying in one same place.
For the circuit in the car, if necessary, consult a car electrician.
For Details i can draw a Circurit.
Hi Slim, Great idea with moving your battery inside and professional install, the gasses will move out irregardless of the pipe angle and gasses are only produced during charging, I would have made the 1.5" pipe slightly upward to prevent water coming in. Slim you are very innovative and possess a lot of common sense. Well done!
Iuuu
I think the outdoor Lourve vent slats will prevent water from coming inside.
Fantastic video, just what I needed to know before moving my batteries inside the trailer.
Creative use of a filter strap wrench! Looked very familiar to the stuff I've done Slim! Glad to hear you've upgraded to AGM batteries!
Good idea, I know a couple who had their batteries freeze. They weren't the same. Appreciate the tip.
I agree. Having it outside will save u nothing. I really like ur idea. Good job.
When I mounted my battery inside I did it for two reasons, one was to keep it warm in winter to get more amp hours out of it, but mainly to allow for two bike racks on the tongue. For the battery I purchased an AGM deep cycle and it only charges through my very good MPPT solar charge controller, even when in tow via a 12 to 19volt 8amp converter that swaps from solar panels to car when in tow. AGM's will not off gas so long as the charger does no wrong. For balance my battery is just behind and inside of the door side (right side) wheel well. It helps balance my trailer left to right, and being as close to the axle as I could get it does not impact the balance so much or stress the frame. The balance is affected by taking a 70 lb battery off the tongue, which is put back in balance by 70ish lbs of bikes and racks.
On the tongue I switched to twin 11 lb propane tanks and moved them forward to battery location, and the bike racks are where the propane tanks were. I have an old pair of Yakima roof rack mounted bike racks, with some aluminum tubing they now easily bolt and unbolt to the tongue. The bikes stay low and in view when I am towing, and do not not interfere with the roof. I may try to mount a hitch mount bike rack so that when I want to leave the trailer and take the bikes I can more easily transplant a hitch mount rack to the car than the roof rack mounts. Also its not easy getting a bike on top of my Subaru Outback, the new ones are quite a bit taller than the older models. In Winter I was thinking the space on the tongue could be used for my small generator and fuel. Thus far I have not had issue with just my 100 amp hour battery and 200 watts of solar panel, even winter camping. But I have been "lucky" to have only winter camped in my Aliner in really cold weather, which means clear skies.... and 13+ amps charging current off solar.
Thanks Jeffrey. I managed to mount the bike yesterday, but will not release a video until it's been given a good road test. Still have spot where the battery was on the tongue, which I'm thinking of putting a gas can painted black to hold water. That way I can get warm water anytime I'm out in a hot sunny day.
what stress could it be?its only 30 pounds.the beer in your fridge weighs more than that.
why not use flex hose for the inside venting save a whole lot of messing around.and makes it very easy for maintenance of the batteries
Deep cycle, as well as many starter batteries as trunk mounting is becoming more common, have a small hole for a vent nipple (hole might be plugged with a small plastic plug from factory) that you hook up a thin hose (like for windscreen asher fluid) to. For multiple batteries use T or Y connectors on the hose.
If the vent is plugged, the caps should be vented, but sealed caps should be available for use when the vent is used, check with the dealer.
Great idea Slim, I’ll give you a heads up after the fact; you can do this ventilation another way by mounting a 120mm x12v silent computer fan on the inside of your box ( mounts with 4 screws) cut the appropriate hole (1 1/2”-3”) & cover the outside hole with a screened vent cover sized like your door vent, run it off your battery to an accessible switch outside your battery box. When at a camp spot, (not moving) , switch it on to vent, when traveling , switch it off, the moving air flow will vent it. Shalom!
I’ve thought about this exact situation. Do you have any pictures or further descriptions?
Yes I'd like to see pics too
Nice looking installation but a question; your battery boxes are NOT airtight? They flare-out in the corners to allow the battery cables a way out of the box, the hydrogen gas you are trying to vent can also escape through these wide areas. You may have been better to simply vent the entire compartment under the cushion (no need for plumbing) allowing the hydrogen to accumulate in the entire compartment then vent out the top in the vent you installed.
Found your channel and subscribed. I want to Boondock more now, but have been thinking about moving my 2 batteries inside, and adding two more to the bank. Way cool. Thanks Slim. :)
nice video, but I would think that you would slope the pipe outside to allow any moisture that accumulated to to drain out side, any gases would still vent
Hi Dave. Hmmm, that's a thought. Easy to tweak. I am planning a long road trip, so I'll see how much moisture I get and if a little adjustment is needed. Thanks!
I know I’m late. My Chalet had the battery inside from the factory and had venting in the bottom as well as the top for cross venting the box. Hydrogen won’t fully vent if you don’t allow air back in, is the theory.
@@Robyrob7771 The space for the wires in the lid of the battery box seems to accomplish that bottom flow.
You're so smart to come up with this stuff and you've done to many changes so far. Anything else left to do? The tongue space is to small for a Jacuzzi, but I'll know you find some way to install one some day....LOL
Great idea, Slim. I too moved my battery inside my aliner, but I upgraded to an AGM battery that is sealed and needs no venting. One concern I have is that it is on the left side of the trailer and it weighs about 65 lbs. The water tank is also on the left side and it puts more weight on that side without counter balancing weight on the right. Probably no big deal.
Hi Tom, I removed the tank. Now I can add weight wherever I need it. Thanks!
Jui
Great video! I have been thinking about doing this to our traditional pop up, but never wanted to invest in new battery boxes with vents. This is a great solution and may give it a shot.
Great video! I totally recommend anyone do this for their LiFePo4 batteries too, in case they fail and their valve vents electrolyte gases - you want that sent outside for fire safety and your health.
Slim, your a genius. I will do the same. Thank you!
You always have and complete great projects with excellent engineering.
Excellent video. That's how they should all be done. Thanks for teaching us.
Excellent idea for venting. Awesome . . . space for a bike rack! Thanks again, Slim.
Good idea. Escaping battery fumes won't damage the aluminum on the trailer body?
It has not effect on the body. It's only 2 batteries with minimal emissions. Thanks! SP
You might put another propane bottle on front. Two batteries more propane. Ready for the apocalypse and better balance for towing.
Impressive and nicely done as usual . We've always used AGM batteries which didn't require venting... but then on our Aliner, we never had it sealed as tightly as you have yours... Fair weather campers !
Hi Slim...great video.. I was curious if you put the batteries inside on your new travel trailer also?
Entertaining video. 👍 Also, the know-it-alls in the comments are fun to read too.
I'd like to suggest adding a fan! Maybe just a small little 80mm 5v fan to help with the ventilation!
Totally unnecessary. Hydrogen rises (what little there is). SP
Looks very good, but doesn't the hydrogen gas from the batteries sink, since it is heavier than air? How do you get it up into the pipes?
Looks lie a good solution! Thanks for posting, this will help me when I switch the batteries to inside.
Unless I misunderstood you, I would have thought that you'd want the vent pipe to slope down going out to the vent. This would allow for any condensation to flow out of the pipe and not pool towards the capped end.
It is the lighter gases I want to expell, not condensation. I have never had any condensation. Thanks! SP
@@SlimPotatohead I was thinking more of warm moist outside air condensing, unless the interior is the same temp as the outside. I may be overthinking.
Nice idea on the battery relocation and venting. My only suggestion (being a 40 year career plumber) would have been to use all pvc water pipe fittings and tee's to simplify the assembly.
Absolutely! There are so many ways this can be done, I used what I could find at any hardware store (Lowes in this case). They didn't have short lengths of 1 1/2" PVC which is why I went to ABS. Maybe Home Depot! Thanks
or flex pipe
Your videos are very informative, thank you very much. Have you thought the draft of air might be pushed back to the battery boxes and into your cabin?
Hi Doc, the battery box vent has the rain guard sloped about 30 degrees to the front. Since I always face the trailer into the wind, this pretty well blocks it. Also, in real rough wind there is guaranteed circulation from the gaps where the walls meet the frame. Thanks! SP
Your videos are great. Thank you for bring them to us. All of the videos I have seen are great by you. Thank you
And a second propane bottle like the new trails have?
The question I would have concerns the tubing vibrating loose! I know you travel some rough roads and wonder if you check it every stop or not! Let us know in a follow up!
Hi oldschooldiy, I put electrical tape on ends so it doesnt come loose. Since the video I replaced one battery with an AGM sealed as well. Thanks!
I think You will get slightly more power out of Your batteries in the warm camper.
Great idea and it looks very professional.
Good idea, but here are some ways to do it differently.
Use Flexible Liquid Tight Conduit and connectors for the bent parts, getting those two elbows lined up is fussy, flex connections are easy to do one at a time.
Keep using the straps to secure the battery box covers. Use more than wood screws, bolt the battery boxes down with good size bolts through the floor. If you hit some big bumps you might spill acid, or short circuit on some metal in the trailer.
I think there might be issues with weight distribution and tracking with both batteries on the same side, but I don't know how well the Aliners do when out of balance.
Hi J, I actually looked into the Flexible Liquid Tight Conduit, but found it not flexible enough for such a small area. The batteries have 4 screws each, and the one has been installed for almost two years there without issues, but more secure is always a good idea. I keep all my heavy tools on the other side so it evens out quite well. Thanks for the tips!
I know that it can be hard to do a sharp turn with flex conduit, but if you give it more length it should be doable. The reason I think that would be the way to go is that you can leave the flex connected to the battery box top as you open it to check the battery water level. Sort of like the way you can leave the air intake hose connected to your car's air filter box while you are checking the filter on your car engine.
But I'm probably over engineering this, it's just an air vent.
drilling holes in the bottom of the box is not a good idea.one of the functions of the box is to retain any electrolyte that could spill out.drilling holes negates the integrity.fastening some pad eyes or even screw eyes to the floor and then strapping them down is far stronger and more stable than a couple short screws.
I'm planning two deep cycle batteries under my seats. I'm also concerned (as some mention below) about weight distribution. I'm hoping to get one battery on each side of the front dinette. I understand adding weight in heavy tools. Kind of a good excuse to add way more tools to the kit.
I removed my water holding tank so I could store my water in jugs. That way I can re-distribute the weight to make up for the batteries. Thanks! SP
Thanks Slim for the info and the links!
Great setup Slim!
You bet a winner and it looks great.
Another clever idea! Thank you.
Very clever as always but kept wondering if water would get in the louver while driving in the rain? Time will tell!
Hi Mighty Cass, I plan on 10,000 miles the next few months so that should be a good test. Will sure to update any tweaks.Thanks!
like any other vent or louver on an RV?the water wont get in.
Very nice job! Fun to watch, also.
Nice professional job. Just not sure though, although vented, I'd want the batteries situated directly underneath my bed.
@Slim Potatohead Wow! Your a genius, an absolute genius. Thank you so very much in sharing your video. Makes my life easier. 🙂
Would you have to vent the batteries if they were lithium? Seems like that would be an easy choice.
No. But at the time this video was made lithium was an extremely expensive choice. SP
Thx for more good ideas. I hope you'll give us a mini update in a year on how those battery boxes & vent pipe is doing after traveling to all your cool 😎 camping spots. Maybe road conditions in Canada are better, but roadways in the US are in poor shape. Also, did you have to redo any wiring, or were you able to just reuse your solar storage battery wiring for both? Did you install some sort of cutoff switch for your batteries (thinking ghost battery hogs like those gas/propane leak detectors that kill batteries when parked between camping trips)?
Hi Karin, for sure I will update as I travel. I will be on those awful US roads shortly! Wiring was just shortened, and new MC4 connectors for the solar. No cutoff needed, as solar keeps battery fully charged when not in use (stored outside). Thanks!
I76u
Thx Slim. Very creative, as usual.
Excellent video! Thanks!
Great Video for sure, I'm curious how you feel after a couple years disassembling that vent set up in order to water your batteries on a regular basis? That's the only downside I could see from this.
Strange question. Why would I be watering my batteries? SP
@@SlimPotatohead the reason you vent lead acid batteries is they produce gas, the water levels go down over time, if you don't water them the lead gets exposed to air and corrodes and kills your battery. That's why the caps on the batteries come off.
Sorry Kurtis, I thought you were referring to water coming through the vent from outside. Topping the cell levels, yes. Not too big an issue, as it came apart quite easily. Currently I do not use deep cycle, switched to AGM. No more venting issues. Thanks! SP
Very smart vent.
Just curious, do you have a mechanical background? You are very creative. Great solutions.
Wonderful job!
Came out pretty decent!
Thanks Slim, good one!
you are like the bob vila of rv's I like the videos, I can never wrap my head around people with one battery, in America they are so dirt cheap you can get a couple more in there. Im going for 4 105 amp hour rv batteries and 400 watts on top, I will stay tuned :)
same as you, everstarts 31 group
and make sure you bolt those down there, I can see rosco p coltrain chasing you again one day and they go flying lol
Awesome idea! Great job.
Hi, Wouldn't a setup like that need a fan to draw the gases out, or is a fan not need.
Its for venting only. With a small setup of just two batteries the gases during charging are minimal. SP
Why did you use a 90° bend instead of just drilling the hole directly below the pipe and have it go straight up to the large vent pipe?
Easy removal. Just rotate the larger pipe and the branches move clear to access the terminals. SP
You sure are a clever guy!
With the battery inside, how’s the best way to run your solar panel cable from the roof to the inside?
I put it through the floor. On an A-frame the junction is only about 5' long. SP
I think batteries belong outside. It’s not just venting, it’s malfunction and fire. But, nice installation. How airtight are battery boxes? How much weight on side now?
Hi Constance, I think if your battery is well maintained there shouldn't be problems. Most of my research into battery issues were with poorly maintained batteries. Perhaps I could put a link on proper battery maintenance if I find a good source. The boxes are not airtight, nor should they be. Air has to flow in, vapors out. I don't use the water tank so the balance on that side should be fine. Thanks!
theres thousands of installations where the batteries are enclosed in RV's
What gauge do you use on your propane tank?
Keep in mind balance, you adding additional weight on the side, could cause a uneven wear and tracking. I would never install batteries on the inside, I've see a battery short out and explode.
Hi Barry, I actually needed more weight on that side as I don't use the water tank. With proper venting and secure connections I consider the risk is very low of any explosions. More risk from using propane and 110v outlets in a trailer! Thanks
Are these agm batteries. I am getting conflicting info. I bought ub121000 have 3 in bus no vents but now want to just add batteries boxes and a vent hole to be sure.
Nice one Slim. I intend in moving mine inside too. Is yours on same side as your panel or opposite side. Could not tell from your video.
Hi Brian, What panel are you referring to? The batteries are on the front left of the trailer. Thanks
Slim Potatohead . Hi there Slim. I meant your converter panel. Mines on left side behind wheel.
Ahhh, mine too. I actually did initially try putting a battery back there, but I wanted it closer to my solar panels, which are on the front.
Slim Potatohead . Oh I see makes sense.
Huu
nice clean job😀
Can you do this with a car battery inside a car?
How do you reroute the cables?
Now that you have the batteries off the tongue and a little closer to the axle, have you ever considered putting a second propane tank on the tongue?
Hi Stephen, I'm actually finding ways to use less propane, therefore a second tank would not be any advantage in my situation. Thanks! SP
with a small rv like that a 20 pound tank will last for two weeks easy.you dont need the extra weight.use that stowage factor for beer lol
Thank you that is a good idea!!
Thanks for a great fix 👍
What do you do with positive and negative leads that are still out on the tongue?
They are no longer out there. Moved indoors! SP
@@SlimPotatohead I still have to figure out how to power trailer Jack now that battery won’t be there 🤔
Slim - when driving is your car's electrical system charging (or at least connected to) your Aliner battery?
No. Independant. Thanks! SP
Fricken genius. I love it
Through the years you've made quite a few changes. It would probably be a good idea to take the trailer to a scale and find the weights on each wheel and the tongue. You want to be sure to have at least 10%-15% weight on the tongue.
Hi Allen, good point. I have made a conscious effort to remove weight from the back (bending frame issue) and am adding a bike and rack to the tongue. May have room for a box on the tongue as well now the battery's not there. Thanks!
Did you shift weight around side to side to offset having the heavy batteries on the one side of the trailer?
Nice but you forgot one thing: Outside air needs to enter the battery boxes from the bottom of the boxes. I don't see where you have provided that feature.
who said it needs outside air.its not a fireplace
What line of work are you in?
isn't that where you had the shower?
Shower is rear right, batteries front left.
Great idea.
great idea
I was more interested in the wiring part of the job. Wish it would have been shown
good job
Why not use AGMs and not worry about venting?
I use both. Old video. SP
What if the wind blows into the vent?
Then it will provide some circulation. The issue is preventing vapor buildup. SP
WITH THOSE KIND OF BATTERY BOXES THE SULFURIC ACID STILL EASILY GETS INTO THE RV BECAUSE THE LIDS COME WITH LARGE VENT OPENINGS.
Not to mention he just created wholes in the floor albeit it is skewed into the floor so hopefully these batteries don't have acid in them seep through the gaps and cause acid damage underneath why outside is safer.
that kind of battery box top has built in vents that face downward,so the battery gases still flow into the interior of the rv,making all that piping worthless.
Hydrogen rises. SP
@9:09
I can think of a reason, and a good one, too : .....more space inside the trailer!
:P :D ;)
Wouldn't the vent hole allow cold air in?
Only to the batteries. Probably a good thing, and much better than have them baking on the trailer tongue.
thats the idea fresh air in ......gasses out
Use completely sealed AGM gel type battery that do not need vented.
Did that. Old video! SP
That’s what I am talking about 👏🏾🙀😎🍻🍺
I'm I mssing something? Why not remove batteries in the WInter and store in garage with battery tender?
Yes you are missing something. I camp all seasons, including winter! SP
I am just surprised about that RV venting concern: I own two different '80s sailboats and none of them got vented batteries, neither I saw such venting setup on any other sailboat...
its not a bad idea if the batteries are in the living space.if your batteries are in the engine room or engine compartment there should be no problem.batteries give off a small amount of hydrogen gas when charging.so in a ventilated engine space there wouldnt be any build up.
Where did the shower go to?
It's always been rear right. Batteries are front left. SP
Love it!
Iiii
Kiii
Good job Mr. Potatohead.