Thanks for this, Aaron. I'm a big fan of N690, because it has good wear resistance, similar to 14C28N, but arguably has better stain resistance, which is a big win in my always-hot, always-humid tropical climate. Between the two models, I'm definitely going for the BK-1, because I always want a slicer.
Tops figured it out when the BOB came out with a "modified" scandi grind. It is just a micro bevel. I agree with you that it is necessary on most scandi grinds to keep from chipping/rolling of the edge. My BOB is really sharp and I sharpen/strop it just like you suggested. These Boker knives look like the real deal. I may get me one. Thanks for another great video!
Hi, I'm from Argentina, and I understand that price isn't competitive in the global market. However, here both versions cost less than $100. Additionally, the knife market in Argentina isn't very large, making both knives a great option if you live here. Best regards.
I was gifted a Wessex Bushcraft knife way back when I think they're made over in England but I would really love to see you do a review on them they are really well made I don't remember the steel right off hand it come with a really nice leather sheath but I would love to see you do a review on them I don't think there's many reviews out there.
I make danglers with a paracord survival bracelet. Put the bracelet through the D ring, secure with a wire bread bag twister close to the D ring, then you simply put the survival bracelet through your belt without having to take your belt off or even loosen it. It really works well, and I have extra cordage for emergencies in the bracelet. Try it some time and I think you will agree. You can get D rings at Walmart, or just tie a small piece of paracord through the belt loop. Thanks for going into so much detail showing the attributes of all the knives you review.
boker’s using wayyyy better steel. i’d rather have n690 over 1095 all day. but a tops BOB in 154cm beats them both. i’m still a fallkniven guy over all of them
Tops? really? you wanna pay insane prices for 15th century performance? you must be a hardcore USA nationalist to even consider overpriced mediocrity like Tops
Just remember, Böker Magnum is their budget brand they don't produce it themselves. Böker plus is better stuff not produced by themselves. Böker Arbolito is their Argentina made stuff. And Böker Solingen or just Böker is their Germany made stuff.
Like all the major brands. Most all US brand knives are now made in china. Even Buck out sources most knives now. I don't know of any major knife companies that don't outsource their cheaper knives. Spiderco, Gerber, Benchmade, CRKT are all making most of their knives in China.
@ I think the major detractor is Boker charges much more for overseas products. Buck does have China and Taiwan products but are significantly cheaper vs their US line. Boker likes to pretend the quality is the same in Argentina and Germany. $140 for n690 and micarta. Can get the same materials/price USA made from Bradford. Boker is on par with how CRKT used to be/is, charging a premium for cheap materials and relying on the well known designers they attach to the product.
One thing I always liked was that their traditional folders came in carbon steel. Not mystery “stainless” steel. I have to confess, I don’t know where their folders are made.
G'day Aaron, thery're in the "like 'em but dont love 'em" category for me. I'm cool with 14C, though I have a few in N690 and 95, ...... significantly superior in my experience. I purposefully keep the CS Finn Wolf "true" scandi, because the AUS-8A, (A for annealed) is more forgiving at the edge, particularly carving our hardwoods and fruit woods, but other than that "I think", the rest I own have secondaries; ...... though cant remember to be honest, what I've done with various Moras ; ) ...... I did do a slightly "concavey-vex" ; ) on a cheap and cheerful, (quite thin stock to start with), Pro S for gardening/grafting at one point. Re; high or lower grinds; as far as scandies go, not a big deal IMO, you just find the angle for the particular blade, feather sticking/carving and either way should split well. I do like these sheaths, but yeah high ride really P155s me off !!!!!. (Incidentally the Buck 119 suffers the same misfortune). Not cheap, but the Casstrom danglers are fantastic. Quality and you can hang just about anything off anything with quick release/change over; I've been known to use 'em upside down, as a carabiner with a leather loop. These dont appear to have enough girth in the handles for my liking and too much tweaking required out of the box. At the end of the day, enjoyed the vid and I very much appreciated you showing a couple off the radar, ...... though Joker and Terava as examples, have 'em well covered IMO. Cheers Duke.
I think Boker snubbed their customer base one too many times, so no one really pays attention to them anymore. That, and when i think 'bushcraft/outdoors/survival knife', Boker isn't even on a majority of people's radar
talking about the steel, I widely prefer the N 690Co than the 14C28N. It's a little bit harder to sharpen but the thoughness is worth the difference...
You must have the best knife collection ever. Can you take a picture of all your knives and post in the community section? Or make a short video showing off your knives?
G'day Mate, I'd like to see that, though I reckon you'd have to stand so far back to capture 'em all in a still shot, that you wouldn't see any detail at all and a vid would take so long you could build the pyramids in the mean time ; ) Cheers Duke.
Instead of the n690, I would prefer the 14c, because as you saw, the n690 isn't that tough and couldn't support the true scandi edge. I too have only been able to keep a 0° scandi with a 3v blade, but with an LT Wright
1. Excellent review. 2. Some years ago, putting aside Morakniv approach, I researched what knife would work, generally, as a plain quasi-bush craft knife. The answer was the Kai-bar Mark 1 knife issued to sailors in WW2. I would prefer this knife as its blade is longer. 3. If I wanted a shorter blade than the Ka-bar Mark 1, it would be the Fallknive F-1 survival knife. As people have pointed out in a response to a video years ago, the grip is undersized because a person is most likely wearing gloves in Sweden at night, during cold days, and in rough terrain.
For my bushcraft blades I rather have a low ride or even a dangler. If I'm going out hiking with my edc fixed blade I want it riding high and outta sight or soft straps and cross draw. These are some cool looking blades. But that one with the wonky fire steel holder is definitely Abit hideous 😂
Great review as always. I've come to really enjoy your no hype, no craziness down to earth style. Have you considered reviewing the Buck 102 Woodsman? As for Boker, they put a bad taste in my mouth when I bought an automatic which broke after one month. Their warranty only applies to German made knives, so I have a "push button and flick hard to open" knife
Great review. Glad you're bringing things out. I believe you answered the reasons why these are not really out there. 1. Price......waaay too much $. 2. All the fixing/modifying that needs to be done. 3. The fact that they have true scandi.... as shown in your video of the trouble with that grind. I personally wouldn't even think about these knives again with all that especially after seeing the price.
If Boker wants to sell those knifes in the massive world of bushcraft knifes they have to offer a competitive price especially if they are competing with Morakniv Garberg average carbon steel $72, Cold steel SRK with starting price of $50 with sk5 steel or Cpm 3V steel for about $110, kabar, tops, Gerber, Esse etc some of those knifes are made in the USA with lifetime warranty. I am not sure what Boker is thinking overseas manufacturing and bad price point, good luck for the brand loyalty
We bushmen don't use true scandi's for reasons you covered well. Field sharpening is annoying and any edge less than 100 grams creates problems that don't need to exist. It's all about balance between time and performance for us.
For myself personally a dedicated wood carver needs a true scandi. For when your doing a lot of carving and leaving behind a knife finish for me a true scandi is best.
NO THEY ARE NOT! Buy the tool that you need & understand how to use, rather than what’s trendy!! Zero Ground knives are FANTASTIC, IF you have the sense & knowledge to use them correctly & maintain them correctly.
for my type of use and preference, i do not dig knives with scandi grinds, I will maybe tolerate a thick scandi-vex (like my TOPS Brakimo), I prefer full flat, convex or sabre. Also I think there are better options for the price range.
Hey Aron, I love your videos. I have recently gotten access to a bunch of knives at dealer prices due to cooperation with a german company who sell knives and swords (I sell swords) and this could be a nice opportunity for me to save a couple bucks on knives for myself if i order one know and then along with the swords i order in to resell. so i've been watching your videos all day the last two days and they are sooo good and you cover so many knives, but i have a BIG review request if you get the opportunity, and that is the SOG TRIDENT FX (Fixed blade). I love the tactical tanto look on knives, I do a lot of fishing where a partially serrated blade can be good for cutting through fishbones and ropes. but i am a bit sceptical to the 4116 SS, but then again it is Cryo treated. Even if you should get the opportunity to review it or not, how would you compare SOG's CRYO 4116 to SOG's CRYO 440C ? Thank you so much for awsome, informative, no bullshit videos !
I had 2 different böker knives fall apart during light use. One during opening the knife and one fell apart during a victim extraction from a car, cutting the seatbelt was to much for the seatbelt cutter. Never that brand ever again.
The thickness of the steel is the same on both? As if the bushcrafter is thinner stock, the height of the grind shouldn't make that much of a difference as thickness has a lot to do with grind angle as well.
My Boker Bushcraft isn't true scandi and has big V-edge, just like the picture you shown from Blade HQ. I don't think it's the same version they sell as the one in the video.
Every Boker I've bought has been disappointing in one way or another... never again. The fact that you had to immediately bevel the edge is a perfect example.
The Boker value for money ratio is unacceptable in 2024. I get the feeling that they sell to people in other parts of the world who know the German (!) brand but are not informed enthusiasts. We knife nerds are probably only a small part of the knife market.
Aaron, thanks for the informative video. I placed an order for the Casstrom dangler right after I watched your video. For me, I hate having to thread my belt through the loop on most fixed blade sheaths and it looks like I can attach the dangler with my belt fashioned. This will be a big plus for me.
I hate the leather sheaths on most knives. They rarely or never make a left handed version. I only buy knives now that come with a left handed version sheath or a least a kydex sheath that can be converted to left hand.
If you need to put a secondary bevel on a scandi there's really no point in it being a scandi in the first place. Might as well give the knife a high saber grind to start with, but that would require it to be thicker to start with. This isn't a dig at you, but at the knives. Even my Gerber Principle out of 420HC doesn't require a secondary bevel to hold an edge. I'm not opposed to modifying any tool to have it do what I want. I heavily modified an Essee 4 to turn it into a truly useful knife.
As of today, 11-03-24, Amazon doesn't list a "Bushlord", they have a "Bushlore" Model CN138. Edit: I Googled it and apparently the CN138 is listed outside the U.S. as the Bushlord.
Problemas de denominación del Modelo idéntico al de Cóndor. Tuvo Joker que modificar el nombre sino se exponía a juicio Abrazo de Bushcraft desde Argentina ✌️🇦🇷✌️
That's why I stopped buying Spyderco. Had one of their bushcraft knives about 10 years back and the handle snapped while making feather sticks. How does a company that large screw up the heat treat on O1? That thing was brittle as a beer bottle.
I bought a BPS Aura in N690 no issues with scandi grind. I find if a scandi rolls in most cases the edge was overheated. I sharpen it to see if i can get to better steel. I also prefer a scandivex. If i need a micro bevel then something is wrong with the knife. 14c28n is tough enough i prefer carbon steel if i can't get 14c28n. But N690 has been ok. It's nice to see more affordable knives but much better knives at those prices. I don't believe they come close to Joker. It's hard to believe my mora Garberg cost $55 an my BPS adventurer $38 i just don't see a improvement in anything making it worth the extra money. My most used knife is a watchman we222 $29 or coldsteel SRK-C $35 don't believe anything new is better it just cost more or has a new fancy steel an costs 3x more.
1:50 disagree. Zero scandi’s are not utility edges at all.. they’re pure “bushcraft” meant for wood, not zipties. However, after several tuneups on a strop at true scandi will develop a little micro bevel anyway, which makes it more durable and more controllable. For me, a scandi with a real honed secondary bevel just sucks. Its lose/lose not good at anything and doesn’t strop back to razor sharp like a zero does.
Boker just seems to be one of them companies.. They've got, what, a million different designs? But not a single flagship model. Not a single one that ever stood out as "their knife". They're all decent, but not a single one that ever made them anything more than a flyover knife company. We all know the name, but I don't even know anyone who owns a single Boker lol.. They've got such a strange reputation. A million designs, Sold everywhere, Moderately priced.. No appeal.
I’ve been watching you for a long time now… I have to ask you… If someone gave you a great new hammer, would you take it out back & try to split wood with it? Try to start a bow fire with it &, when it doesn’t go well, talk down about the tool? When it comes to TH-cam, there are 2 kinds of “knife guys”… Those who are simply salesman & will tell you that every knife they speak of is great, and guys who misuse their tools & then say that it isn’t great… Neither really offers anything to me: A working guy who buys knives purely based on how they WORK, with zero concern about what trendy materials they are made of. I really can’t understand what EITHER of these types of programming offer me…
@gideonstactical there isn't a question. The guy's just venting. I'm 71 years old and have been deep into knives my whole life. We are in a knife Renaissance. I look at other knife reviews in addition to yours just to know what's out there, but I find the information you put out to be the most accurate, honest, and helpful. There's always going to be people who for whatever reason don't like what you're doing. Ignore them.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
I put a true scandi on my mora companion (the thin none Stainless blade) and use it for everything and have never had any trouble with it.
Thanks for this, Aaron. I'm a big fan of N690, because it has good wear resistance, similar to 14C28N, but arguably has better stain resistance, which is a big win in my always-hot, always-humid tropical climate. Between the two models, I'm definitely going for the BK-1, because I always want a slicer.
Tops figured it out when the BOB came out with a "modified" scandi grind. It is just a micro bevel. I agree with you that it is necessary on most scandi grinds to keep from chipping/rolling of the edge. My BOB is really sharp and I sharpen/strop it just like you suggested. These Boker knives look like the real deal. I may get me one. Thanks for another great video!
Böker + Bushcraft + Scandi = Vigtig vs Wild, MagnaCut 62-63 hrc + a good kydex sheath.
Hi, I'm from Argentina, and I understand that price isn't competitive in the global market. However, here both versions cost less than $100. Additionally, the knife market in Argentina isn't very large, making both knives a great option if you live here. Best regards.
Thanks for the input!
I was gifted a Wessex Bushcraft knife way back when I think they're made over in England but I would really love to see you do a review on them they are really well made I don't remember the steel right off hand it come with a really nice leather sheath but I would love to see you do a review on them I don't think there's many reviews out there.
I make danglers with a paracord survival bracelet. Put the bracelet through the D ring, secure with a wire bread bag twister close to the D ring, then you simply put the survival bracelet through your belt without having to take your belt off or even loosen it. It really works well, and I have extra cordage for emergencies in the bracelet. Try it some time and I think you will agree. You can get D rings at Walmart, or just tie a small piece of paracord through the belt loop. Thanks for going into so much detail showing the attributes of all the knives you review.
At that price point, get a Tops Brakimo and call it a day.
I got my tops BOB for about $120, and I don't think these Boker knives are as good. Simply put.
boker’s using wayyyy better steel. i’d rather have n690 over 1095 all day. but a tops BOB in 154cm beats them both. i’m still a fallkniven guy over all of them
Tops? really? you wanna pay insane prices for 15th century performance? you must be a hardcore USA nationalist to even consider overpriced mediocrity like Tops
Sure, if you want to pay $30 more for a knife with a lower quality steel.
I’ve lost trust in boker, some of their German blades have been good but anything else is overpriced for materials and being made in China/Argentina.
Just remember, Böker Magnum is their budget brand they don't produce it themselves. Böker plus is better stuff not produced by themselves. Böker Arbolito is their Argentina made stuff. And Böker Solingen or just Böker is their Germany made stuff.
Like all the major brands. Most all US brand knives are now made in china. Even Buck out sources most knives now. I don't know of any major knife companies that don't outsource their cheaper knives. Spiderco, Gerber, Benchmade, CRKT are all making most of their knives in China.
@ I think the major detractor is Boker charges much more for overseas products. Buck does have China and Taiwan products but are significantly cheaper vs their US line.
Boker likes to pretend the quality is the same in Argentina and Germany. $140 for n690 and micarta. Can get the same materials/price USA made from Bradford.
Boker is on par with how CRKT used to be/is, charging a premium for cheap materials and relying on the well known designers they attach to the product.
As a German I agree 😅
One thing I always liked was that their traditional folders came in carbon steel. Not mystery “stainless” steel. I have to confess, I don’t know where their folders are made.
G'day Aaron, thery're in the "like 'em but dont love 'em" category for me.
I'm cool with 14C, though I have a few in N690 and 95, ...... significantly superior in my experience.
I purposefully keep the CS Finn Wolf "true" scandi, because the AUS-8A, (A for annealed) is more forgiving at the edge, particularly carving our hardwoods and fruit woods, but other than that "I think", the rest I own have secondaries; ...... though cant remember to be honest, what I've done with various Moras ; ) ...... I did do a slightly "concavey-vex" ; ) on a cheap and cheerful, (quite thin stock to start with), Pro S for gardening/grafting at one point.
Re; high or lower grinds; as far as scandies go, not a big deal IMO, you just find the angle for the particular blade, feather sticking/carving and either way should split well.
I do like these sheaths, but yeah high ride really P155s me off !!!!!. (Incidentally the Buck 119 suffers the same misfortune). Not cheap, but the Casstrom danglers are fantastic. Quality and you can hang just about anything off anything with quick release/change over; I've been known to use 'em upside down, as a carabiner with a leather loop.
These dont appear to have enough girth in the handles for my liking and too much tweaking required out of the box.
At the end of the day, enjoyed the vid and I very much appreciated you showing a couple off the radar, ...... though Joker and Terava as examples, have 'em well covered IMO.
Cheers Duke.
I think Boker snubbed their customer base one too many times, so no one really pays attention to them anymore. That, and when i think 'bushcraft/outdoors/survival knife', Boker isn't even on a majority of people's radar
G'day Mate, great comment !!!! Cheers Duke.
Only in the USA, they sell well enough in Europe and Asia.
talking about the steel, I widely prefer the N 690Co than the 14C28N. It's a little bit harder to sharpen but the thoughness is worth the difference...
You must have the best knife collection ever. Can you take a picture of all your knives and post in the community section? Or make a short video showing off your knives?
G'day Mate, I'd like to see that, though I reckon you'd have to stand so far back to capture 'em all in a still shot, that you wouldn't see any detail at all and a vid would take so long you could build the pyramids in the mean time ; ) Cheers Duke.
Instead of the n690, I would prefer the 14c, because as you saw, the n690 isn't that tough and couldn't support the true scandi edge. I too have only been able to keep a 0° scandi with a 3v blade, but with an LT Wright
Nobody can't beat LT in knife craftsmanship, I love my Genesis, GNS and Illuminous 5. Since I bought those knives, I sold every other bushcraft knife.
1. Excellent review.
2. Some years ago, putting aside Morakniv approach, I researched what knife would work, generally, as a plain quasi-bush craft knife. The answer was the Kai-bar Mark 1 knife issued to sailors in WW2. I would prefer this knife as its blade is longer.
3. If I wanted a shorter blade than the Ka-bar Mark 1, it would be the Fallknive F-1 survival knife. As people have pointed out in a response to a video years ago, the grip is undersized because a person is most likely wearing gloves in Sweden at night, during cold days, and in rough terrain.
The Mark1 is way too overloaded, great knife, if the handle fits your hand
For my bushcraft blades I rather have a low ride or even a dangler. If I'm going out hiking with my edc fixed blade I want it riding high and outta sight or soft straps and cross draw. These are some cool looking blades. But that one with the wonky fire steel holder is definitely Abit hideous 😂
Great review as always. I've come to really enjoy your no hype, no craziness down to earth style. Have you considered reviewing the Buck 102 Woodsman? As for Boker, they put a bad taste in my mouth when I bought an automatic which broke after one month. Their warranty only applies to German made knives, so I have a "push button and flick hard to open" knife
True bushcrafter never fond of micro bevel 😊
Great review. Glad you're bringing things out. I believe you answered the reasons why these are not really out there.
1. Price......waaay too much $.
2. All the fixing/modifying that needs to be done.
3. The fact that they have true scandi.... as shown in your video of the trouble with that grind.
I personally wouldn't even think about these knives again with all that especially after seeing the price.
I'll do you one better, I'm not even going to watch it after seeing the price is an issue. I already know i'll never end up buying them
If Boker wants to sell those knifes in the massive world of bushcraft knifes they have to offer a competitive price especially if they are competing with Morakniv Garberg average carbon steel $72, Cold steel SRK with starting price of $50 with sk5 steel or Cpm 3V steel for about $110, kabar, tops, Gerber, Esse etc some of those knifes are made in the USA with lifetime warranty. I am not sure what Boker is thinking overseas manufacturing and bad price point, good luck for the brand loyalty
We bushmen don't use true scandi's for reasons you covered well. Field sharpening is annoying and any edge less than 100 grams creates problems that don't need to exist. It's all about balance between time and performance for us.
For myself personally a dedicated wood carver needs a true scandi. For when your doing a lot of carving and leaving behind a knife finish for me a true scandi is best.
Micro bevels are a must!
NO THEY ARE NOT! Buy the tool that you need & understand how to use, rather than what’s trendy!! Zero Ground knives are FANTASTIC, IF you have the sense & knowledge to use them correctly & maintain them correctly.
for my type of use and preference, i do not dig knives with scandi grinds, I will maybe tolerate a thick scandi-vex (like my TOPS Brakimo), I prefer full flat, convex or sabre. Also I think there are better options for the price range.
Hey Aron, I love your videos. I have recently gotten access to a bunch of knives at dealer prices due to cooperation with a german company who sell knives and swords (I sell swords) and this could be a nice opportunity for me to save a couple bucks on knives for myself if i order one know and then along with the swords i order in to resell. so i've been watching your videos all day the last two days and they are sooo good and you cover so many knives, but i have a BIG review request if you get the opportunity, and that is the SOG TRIDENT FX (Fixed blade). I love the tactical tanto look on knives, I do a lot of fishing where a partially serrated blade can be good for cutting through fishbones and ropes. but i am a bit sceptical to the 4116 SS, but then again it is Cryo treated.
Even if you should get the opportunity to review it or not, how would you compare SOG's CRYO 4116 to SOG's CRYO 440C ? Thank you so much for awsome, informative, no bullshit videos !
Tops Brakimo. Support our man Joe Flowers!
I think Joker occupies this space better than Boker, just on fit/finish not to mention value.
Personally I would take the joker any day over the Boker. Joker knives are very well done
The joker is a beast!
I had 2 different böker knives fall apart during light use. One during opening the knife and one fell apart during a victim extraction from a car, cutting the seatbelt was to much for the seatbelt cutter. Never that brand ever again.
The thickness of the steel is the same on both? As if the bushcrafter is thinner stock, the height of the grind shouldn't make that much of a difference as thickness has a lot to do with grind angle as well.
Yes both are 0.16 on my caliper
My Boker Bushcraft isn't true scandi and has big V-edge, just like the picture you shown from Blade HQ. I don't think it's the same version they sell as the one in the video.
Every Boker I've bought has been disappointing in one way or another... never again. The fact that you had to immediately bevel the edge is a perfect example.
The Boker value for money ratio is unacceptable in 2024. I get the feeling that they sell to people in other parts of the world who know the German (!) brand but are not informed enthusiasts. We knife nerds are probably only a small part of the knife market.
seven words to tickle the fickle algorithm
saying awesome video falls just short 👍
Aaron, thanks for the informative video. I placed an order for the Casstrom dangler right after I watched your video. For me, I hate having to thread my belt through the loop on most fixed blade sheaths and it looks like I can attach the dangler with my belt fashioned. This will be a big plus for me.
I hate the leather sheaths on most knives. They rarely or never make a left handed version. I only buy knives now that come with a left handed version sheath or a least a kydex sheath that can be converted to left hand.
I'm micro bevel all day long on my Scandi knives, but that Boker is mighty sweet!
It really does look great.
I’m a little chunky and high rides in my ribs is a no go.
If you need to put a secondary bevel on a scandi there's really no point in it being a scandi in the first place. Might as well give the knife a high saber grind to start with, but that would require it to be thicker to start with. This isn't a dig at you, but at the knives. Even my Gerber Principle out of 420HC doesn't require a secondary bevel to hold an edge. I'm not opposed to modifying any tool to have it do what I want. I heavily modified an Essee 4 to turn it into a truly useful knife.
Last Boker I bought was $150 and QC was a total miss so I’ve been hesitant to give them another chance
Totally understand.
As of today, 11-03-24, Amazon doesn't list a "Bushlord", they have a "Bushlore" Model CN138.
Edit: I Googled it and apparently the CN138 is listed outside the U.S. as the Bushlord.
It is a bit confusing
@@gideonstactical I wonder why they would change one letter just for the States?
Ah! I was confused by the Amazon link for the Bushlord. Thanks for straightening that out. 👏
Problemas de denominación del Modelo idéntico al de Cóndor.
Tuvo Joker que modificar el nombre sino se exponía a juicio
Abrazo de Bushcraft desde Argentina ✌️🇦🇷✌️
The scandi-vex is more dudrable. I'll stick with my carbon steel Moras.
No, a true Scandi don’t seem to satisfy me either.
I like the black handle one better.
WHAT DOES THE COLOR OF THE HANDLE MATTER??
@@AnAmericanFatherI think they mean the black handle design.
Boker knives have the most hit & miss heat treats ever.
I do not buy from them anymore.
That's why I stopped buying Spyderco. Had one of their bushcraft knives about 10 years back and the handle snapped while making feather sticks. How does a company that large screw up the heat treat on O1? That thing was brittle as a beer bottle.
I bought a BPS Aura in N690 no issues with scandi grind.
I find if a scandi rolls in most cases the edge was overheated. I sharpen it to see if i can get to better steel. I also prefer a scandivex. If i need a micro bevel then something is wrong with the knife.
14c28n is tough enough i prefer carbon steel if i can't get 14c28n. But N690 has been ok.
It's nice to see more affordable knives but much better knives at those prices. I don't believe they come close to Joker.
It's hard to believe my mora Garberg cost $55 an my BPS adventurer $38 i just don't see a improvement in anything making it worth the extra money.
My most used knife is a watchman we222 $29 or coldsteel SRK-C $35 don't believe anything new is better it just cost more or has a new fancy steel an costs 3x more.
YAWN 🥱 😴
I would think if there were any modifications to be done then it's not worth buying it.
Algorithm comment...
1:50 disagree. Zero scandi’s are not utility edges at all.. they’re pure “bushcraft” meant for wood, not zipties.
However, after several tuneups on a strop at true scandi will develop a little micro bevel anyway, which makes it more durable and more controllable.
For me, a scandi with a real honed secondary bevel just sucks. Its lose/lose not good at anything and doesn’t strop back to razor sharp like a zero does.
Boker just seems to be one of them companies.. They've got, what, a million different designs? But not a single flagship model. Not a single one that ever stood out as "their knife". They're all decent, but not a single one that ever made them anything more than a flyover knife company.
We all know the name, but I don't even know anyone who owns a single Boker lol.. They've got such a strange reputation. A million designs, Sold everywhere, Moderately priced.. No appeal.
Fixed blade knives are not designed for chopping. Hatchets & Axis R 4 chopping. Why do you TH-camrs insist on this ridiculous advice?
TRUMP 2024 BABY! Im sorry you live in Colorado man. 😂 Still love your content
🌲🇦🇷
I’ve been watching you for a long time now… I have to ask you… If someone gave you a great new hammer, would you take it out back & try to split wood with it? Try to start a bow fire with it &, when it doesn’t go well, talk down about the tool? When it comes to TH-cam, there are 2 kinds of “knife guys”… Those who are simply salesman & will tell you that every knife they speak of is great, and guys who misuse their tools & then say that it isn’t great… Neither really offers anything to me: A working guy who buys knives purely based on how they WORK, with zero concern about what trendy materials they are made of. I really can’t understand what EITHER of these types of programming offer me…
Thank for the comment, but I am not really seeing a question.
@@gideonstacticali think he asked if someone gave you a new hammer , would you split wood with it. ? 🤔
@gideonstactical there isn't a question. The guy's just venting. I'm 71 years old and have been deep into knives my whole life. We are in a knife Renaissance. I look at other knife reviews in addition to yours just to know what's out there, but I find the information you put out to be the most accurate, honest, and helpful. There's always going to be people who for whatever reason don't like what you're doing. Ignore them.
No offense Sir.
It's been my experience that Boker knives are shit. Will not buy any more.
overpriced
to me, this is a commercial for mora. I know im being a wise guy. but I do mean it. love my moras
Ya! I totally get that!!