Informative video JD. Your routine is very similar to mine. I use my floor jack under my trailer wheel to get it up a bit higher to facilitate draining and then I place a cheap box fan over the engine bay to assist with drying everything out. Your ski looks like new. It's a chore to do the post ride maintenance but it will always pay off in the long run in so many ways! Thanks for posting!
Been using corosion block for 20 years. It's the best. Same company that makes acf50 just a bit thicker. The grease is also top shelf. Buy in bulk and use spray gun
This is the video I needed. Took me two hours to do post ride last weekend but it's a labor of love, not a chore. Two questions. What's the order of operations on your wash? Is it a salt away first and then the Maguires or the reverse? And I'm glad you talked about how much salt away to use on the flush because that wasn't in the flush video. I also hadn't been doing a salt away wash down on the engine, just the Corrosion Block so super glad you dropped that gem. Lastly, holy crap your trailer goes so high. I jack my triton single up as high as it will go then I lift it off the ground. Would love any other suggestions to help make it easier. Thanks JD!!!! It's jetski weather this weekend so I'll be implementing all your feedback starting tomorrow!💪🏿🚤
Haha yeah my wife’s always complaining at me because I’ll be out on the water for a few hours, then come home and spend another two hours cleaning and washing down the ski lol. I spray the entire ski and trailer down with salt away, then wash it off with water, then use the McGuires soap, then wash again with fresh water. Then usually I towel dry the ski. If I see salt deposits on the cylinder head I wash the engine down- but be careful not to use too high pressure when doing this. The clear inspection window is where the salt water gets in…I’ve considered just taping it shut with some butyl since I can just remove the whole cover if needed on the water. The corrosion block is an incredible product- There are some other good products on the market, but I’ve been using this specific one for years and I love it. And yes- with the Saltaway Mixer I will usually use 50% on the intercooler and 50% on the engine. The engine I usually start with fresh water for a bit to clear the initial salt out of the cooling channels, then switch the mixer over..I realize I was getting lots of soap foam out of my exhaust. Spray down your jet pump, impeller, and exit nozzle with the corrosion block too- it eliminates the white corrosion that forms on the aluminum.
Great info really appreciated 👍 Just want to know more about rust Inhibitor corrosion block spray. Would it be safe for my car engine bay (plastic wires/plugs/fittings) as I want something to protect my car as I drive alot at beach sands and mud (very salty)
Yes, I use it on my cars, motorhome, small engines..even my home AC condenser, coils, well pumps etc. Google “Lear chemical” for the master product sheets on corrosion block- it’s an awesome product and the results are real.
No need to wipe it off, the corrosion block in fact needs to be on the metal in order to protect it; it provides a protective hydrophobic barrier To metal components and prevents corrosion from spreading on the porous surface of the metal
You mean the FX SVHO? Wow these are three polar opposite machines…what conditions are you riding in? What is your experience level? Will you be doing your own maintenance or relying on a dealer? The SeaDoo you mentioned I’m not supercharged, while the other two skis are- very different platforms in terms of performance and maintenance. I personally wouldn’t buy anything that wasn’t a Kawasaki, as I’m sure you realized by now from watching my channel. This video has a few reasons why I only ride Kawasaki: th-cam.com/video/FW_pZpHOuGY/w-d-xo.html
@@JDsWaterWorld thank you for your kind reply I am in Florida by the Gulf conditions are good to rough waters on windy days I like to cruise around the Bay Area watch the dolphins and go to different islands the seadoo explorer pro was on my list until I watch your Kawasaki video i will be doing my own maintenance I am a beginner as far as experience level
Ok cool. Well a ski like the 310 would probably be too much for someone with no prior mechanical or riding experience. I personally think the explorer is way overkill with that ridiculous windshield…but that’s just my opinion. If you prefer the SeaDoo brand the GTI 170 is a better choice I think for a beginner. The Kawasaki Ultra 160 is a naturally aspirated ski, so the maintenance is very simple compared to the Ultra 310- which is supercharged. I wouldn’t every buy a SeaDoo myself, but people seem to love them. My best advice for you would be to look at each model in person at the dealer- see which one is most comfortable and which one you like the best. I own the skis on my channel and am not a paid corporate influencer- most SeaDoo channels include skis that have been provided to influencers by the corporation- so take that as you will.
@@JDsWaterWorld I appreciate your input I am mechanically inclined if you see my channel I have. Built to cammed hemis I do all my maintenance on my supercharged TRX Ram. I owned two Suzuki hayabusa and topped the speed of 220 mph on land As for the water I have only gone 40 mph I want a reliable powerful ski and I think Kawasaki is the way to go based on your explanations I spoke with a few seadoo mechanics I was told the housing for the impeller is plastic and must be upgraded to a aluminum for reliability
Ahhhh. Well then you would probably have fun working on the Kawasaki like I do- I basically have videos of all the major maintenance items so if you watch those and are comfortable- it’s an awesome fun ski. On dead flat water, the SeaDoos can be staged to go faster than the Kawasakis…but the responsiveness of the Eaton TVS is incredible. I do 75 in pretty much every condition with my current mod package.
Picking my lx-s from the shop today for a 10 hour service just in time for Labor Day weekend! Mechanic said he saw some pieces of the belt and blamed me spraying yamalube on the belt. Is this something you have come across or is some fray from the belt expected spray or no spray?
Thanks for the quick response! Would you recommend the corrosion block over yamalube? Inhave both but the neighbor gave me some leftover yamalube so I’ve just been using that for now.
I can’t speak to the Yamalube but definitely can recommend the corrosion block since that’s what I use. Any lubricant is probably better than nothing though
It’s not flammable, I apply it directly to my exhaust manifold, supercharger, water boxes, etc. also use it on my cars, mowers, never had an issue. It’s as safe as any other commercially available fogging oil or anti corrosive lubricant you could buy
I spray it down when I get home from the boat ramp, it’s usually still fairly hot and does steam…easier to get the salt off while it’s fresh -and the steam helps dissolve deposits I think lol
@@JDsWaterWorld I just don’t want to hurt the engine by spraying cold water on it right after a ride. I know it’s not full blast just mist the engine but still lol. If it works for your it should be ok for mine. It’s a 2006 GTX
Informative video JD. Your routine is very similar to mine. I use my floor jack under my trailer wheel to get it up a bit higher to facilitate draining and then I place a cheap box fan over the engine bay to assist with drying everything out. Your ski looks like new. It's a chore to do the post ride maintenance but it will always pay off in the long run in so many ways! Thanks for posting!
Great tips, yea having a fan like that is great!
Been using corosion block for 20 years. It's the best. Same company that makes acf50 just a bit thicker. The grease is also top shelf. Buy in bulk and use spray gun
Thanks.
Been doing this with my '04 Aquatrax for close to 20 years now..
Awesome! Loved the Honda skis
Good advice 👍
This is the video I needed. Took me two hours to do post ride last weekend but it's a labor of love, not a chore. Two questions. What's the order of operations on your wash? Is it a salt away first and then the Maguires or the reverse? And I'm glad you talked about how much salt away to use on the flush because that wasn't in the flush video. I also hadn't been doing a salt away wash down on the engine, just the Corrosion Block so super glad you dropped that gem. Lastly, holy crap your trailer goes so high. I jack my triton single up as high as it will go then I lift it off the ground. Would love any other suggestions to help make it easier. Thanks JD!!!! It's jetski weather this weekend so I'll be implementing all your feedback starting tomorrow!💪🏿🚤
Haha yeah my wife’s always complaining at me because I’ll be out on the water for a few hours, then come home and spend another two hours cleaning and washing down the ski lol. I spray the entire ski and trailer down with salt away, then wash it off with water, then use the McGuires soap, then wash again with fresh water. Then usually I towel dry the ski. If I see salt deposits on the cylinder head I wash the engine down- but be careful not to use too high pressure when doing this. The clear inspection window is where the salt water gets in…I’ve considered just taping it shut with some butyl since I can just remove the whole cover if needed on the water. The corrosion block is an incredible product- There are some other good products on the market, but I’ve been using this specific one for years and I love it. And yes- with the Saltaway
Mixer I will usually use 50% on the intercooler and 50% on the engine. The engine I usually start with fresh water for a bit to clear the initial salt out of the cooling channels, then switch the mixer over..I realize I was getting lots of soap foam out of my exhaust. Spray down your jet pump, impeller, and exit nozzle with the corrosion block too- it eliminates the white corrosion that forms on the aluminum.
Well earned like and subscribe from me, thanks for all of your posts, super helpful for new guys like me💯
Glad I can help, any special video requests, just let me know! Thanks for watching!
Nice tips 😅
Great info really appreciated 👍
Just want to know more about rust Inhibitor corrosion block spray. Would it be safe for my car engine bay (plastic wires/plugs/fittings) as I want something to protect my car as I drive alot at beach sands and mud (very salty)
Yes, I use it on my cars, motorhome, small engines..even my home AC condenser, coils, well pumps etc. Google “Lear chemical” for the master product sheets on corrosion block- it’s an awesome product and the results are real.
Do you just leave the corrosion block on while the seat is off? No need to wipe it off? Ty for the video
No need to wipe it off, the corrosion block in fact needs to be on the metal in order to protect it; it provides a protective hydrophobic barrier To metal components and prevents corrosion from spreading on the porous surface of the metal
I CAN NOT decide between the Seadoo Explorer Pro, VX SVHO and Kawasaki, I am leaning more towards the Kawasaki but I need to more re assurance
You mean the FX SVHO? Wow these are three polar opposite machines…what conditions are you riding in? What is your experience level? Will you be doing your own maintenance or relying on a dealer? The SeaDoo you mentioned I’m not supercharged, while the other two skis are- very different platforms in terms of performance and maintenance. I personally wouldn’t buy anything that wasn’t a Kawasaki, as I’m sure you realized by now from watching my channel.
This video has a few reasons why I only ride Kawasaki:
th-cam.com/video/FW_pZpHOuGY/w-d-xo.html
@@JDsWaterWorld thank you for your kind reply I am in Florida by the Gulf conditions are good to rough waters on windy days
I like to cruise around the Bay Area watch the dolphins and go to different islands the seadoo explorer pro was on my list until I watch your Kawasaki video i will be doing my own maintenance I am a beginner as far as experience level
Ok cool. Well a ski like the 310 would probably be too much for someone with no prior mechanical or riding experience. I personally think the explorer is way overkill with that ridiculous windshield…but that’s just my opinion. If you prefer the SeaDoo brand the GTI 170 is a better choice I think for a beginner. The Kawasaki Ultra 160 is a naturally aspirated ski, so the maintenance is very simple compared to the Ultra 310- which is supercharged. I wouldn’t every buy a SeaDoo myself, but people seem to love them. My best advice for you would be to look at each model in person at the dealer- see which one is most comfortable and which one you like the best. I own the skis on my channel and am not a paid corporate influencer- most SeaDoo channels include skis that have been provided to influencers by the corporation- so take that as you will.
@@JDsWaterWorld I appreciate your input
I am mechanically inclined if you see my channel I have. Built to cammed hemis I do all my maintenance on my supercharged TRX Ram. I owned two Suzuki hayabusa and topped the speed of 220 mph on land
As for the water I have only gone 40 mph
I want a reliable powerful ski and I think Kawasaki is the way to go based on your explanations
I spoke with a few seadoo mechanics
I was told the housing for the impeller is plastic and must be upgraded to a aluminum for reliability
Ahhhh. Well then you would probably have fun working on the Kawasaki like I do- I basically have videos of all the major maintenance items so if you watch those and are comfortable- it’s an awesome fun ski. On dead flat water, the SeaDoos can be staged to go faster than the Kawasakis…but the responsiveness of the Eaton TVS is incredible. I do 75 in pretty much every condition with my current mod package.
Picking my lx-s from the shop today for a 10 hour service just in time for Labor Day weekend! Mechanic said he saw some pieces of the belt and blamed me spraying yamalube on the belt. Is this something you have come across or is some fray from the belt expected spray or no spray?
A little bit of black dust in the bilge is normal, but yea definitely don’t get any Yamalube on the belt
Thanks for the quick response! Would you recommend the corrosion block over yamalube? Inhave both but the neighbor gave me some leftover yamalube so I’ve just been using that for now.
I can’t speak to the Yamalube but definitely can recommend the corrosion block since that’s what I use. Any lubricant is probably better than nothing though
Should I be worried about the corrosion block catching on fire in the engine bay or is it safe?
It’s not flammable, I apply it directly to my exhaust manifold, supercharger, water boxes, etc. also use it on my cars, mowers, never had an issue. It’s as safe as any other commercially available fogging oil or anti corrosive lubricant you could buy
Do you also fog the supercharger with fogging oil? And if so, what do you use?
I actually have been using the Lear Corrosion Block to fog it with as well
How long do you wait to spray salt away on the engine? Like right after you ride it and it’s hot or wait a few hours?
I spray it down when I get home from the boat ramp, it’s usually still fairly hot and does steam…easier to get the salt off while it’s fresh -and the steam helps dissolve deposits I think lol
@@JDsWaterWorld I just don’t want to hurt the engine by spraying cold water on it right after a ride. I know it’s not full blast just mist the engine but still lol. If it works for your it should be ok for mine. It’s a 2006 GTX