My armchair quarterback thoughts. On the sachs, if it is anything like the newer ones it will respond to a high exhaust roof. The reason being the high velocity, turbulence, and compression on the intake side coupled with a combustion chamber and squish band that also promotes very good mixing results in excellent atomization of the fuel. This makes for a fast flame front travel speed. The pulse is shorter with a higher pressure spike. In the same vein tighter squish, more squish area, higher compression, tighter lower cases all contribute to being able to raise the exhaust roof with good results. These are my theories. I think all Makita saws come from the factory with to low of an exhaust roof for the internal design.
You are awesome! Thank you so much for sharing this information. After carefully watching your videos I’ve now ported 6 saws and have been very successful with the exception of one which I screwed up all by myself. Thanks brother!!!
Again, nice to know the ball park numbers along with possible ranges and characteristics on either side of the ranges. Very interesting indeed. Thank you for sharing. TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙
I have an 036 oem cylinder that has 159 intake duration stock which I thought was a lot. I opened up the lower transfers, raised and widened exhaust, and Hyway pop up piston. 18 thou squish with no gasket and has 185lbs compression, runs so well and isn’t finicky to tune. With an 18” bar it will outcut most stock 70cc saws. Cool video tinman
Thanks Tinman for all of this work and info. I’ve been watching and reading everything on power saws after playing and catching the bug. Diesel mechanic by trade so this is quite the change, if it wasn’t for guys like you helping us out the curve would be quite steeper.
Professor, you da man. Thanks for the extra effort in detail and comparison. My saws are running great because of your channel. My 630 Jred was out of use for a long time. You should see it go now. Thanks again.
my 38 s is at 96 you can get there quick and i did the big lower transfers and light piston , it works well , thank god i guess it;s not hard to say how did i do that, love this stuff
I am all for porting your saws if you like, but I personally don't need to do it, In my part of Montana we have Spruce, pine, and such and in town where I live we have Cottonwood,Grey Poplar and ash, so there was never anything that my MS 460 wouldn't easily cut, and I was not into racing! Tin Man, I think it's great the info that you put out for everyone!
The difference in how a 460 pulls a 32-36” bar after a base gasket delete and porting job at 80/100/120-125? Absolutely incredible. I am not pushing you to port it, as the 460 is a fantastic saw when stock. But as someone who runs long bars in TN red oak all day long? Ported saws WILL spoil you.
@@ryanbruner8928 building a warmed up saw isn’t something that’s required. Until you run one, and get addicted to the torque and chain speed. My work truck has an Echo 355T, Husky 346XP, 372XP, 395XP, and MS460 on it. All ported / built. I clearly have a problem. I used to build engines in trucks I owned back in the day. Building saws has been the same fun, on the cheap. (I bought all of those saws blown-up for under $300 and repaired.)
Great vid, very helpful. Typicly, I start seeing where the bottom of the top(or only) ring, mark the bottom of the piston with a pencil and that gives me the max room to adjust. Generally Ill adjust the most from the exhaust. What do you think?
make sure you number the video titles to have consistency. pt 1, pt 2, pt 3 etc. and add to your playlists. it makes it easier to find follow up videos later
First off I like the info in your videos. Are you in arborsite? I have a husky 288 that I have been playing with for a while. And see you have quite a few videos on them and would like make it perform the best it can.
Tin man! Rebuilding my 362, piston was junk but the cylinder is salvageable. Going to try my hand at widening up the ports without messing with the timing numbers. Will that work or is it more effort than it’s worth?
Just timed my hyway 52mm 372. No basegasket and it has got 180* of intake duration. That seems wild to me. Rest of the numbers go as follows. Ex open 101* ATDC 156* duration Int open 72* ABDC 180* duration Transfer open 136* ATDC 108* duration Blowdown at 25*
You could have a few race saws. look how many saws you have! Maybe you might learn something that would apply to your work saws if u did a few race saws?
You cam drill them to decrease the weight which will usually increase the rpm before engagement. Or shorten the spring which gives it more force and increases the rpm before engagement once again .
That’s what I figured. Never thought about it until I watched this video. But makes sense. Good to know if you ever go a little too far on intake. Thanks Tinman.
Yesterday I tested my first modified cylinder on a 372. It's a Chinese cylinder. The numbers turned out like this: Squish 0.02 Intake -82 (164) E-98 (164) TR-122 Blowdown 24 I started it on 92 gasoline. While I was setting it up, I felt unstable behavior of the motor. As a result, it was pulled up and the cylinder was thrown into the trash. He never saw the tree! Now I'm trying to understand what was the reason? Low octane gasoline or too high intake duration 164?
![ออกพรรษาน้ำตาหล่น - แอน อรดี [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PFZtOcY9ONA/mqdefault.jpg)
Ive watched a lot of porting vids by many. This is by far the most informative and confirmed vid on porting numbers.
One of the best porting videos ive seen yet, thanks for all you share !!
Very good break down on the port timming and target duration
Amen!!! and Well see you when that limb becomes a tiny twig!!!! Stilh here for years!’
My armchair quarterback thoughts. On the sachs, if it is anything like the newer ones it will respond to a high exhaust roof. The reason being the high velocity, turbulence, and compression on the intake side coupled with a combustion chamber and squish band that also promotes very good mixing results in excellent atomization of the fuel. This makes for a fast flame front travel speed. The pulse is shorter with a higher pressure spike. In the same vein tighter squish, more squish area, higher compression, tighter lower cases all contribute to being able to raise the exhaust roof with good results. These are my theories. I think all Makita saws come from the factory with to low of an exhaust roof for the internal design.
Great information! Wish I would've known this before I was porting saws. Saved me some trouble for sure. Enjoy your content. Thanks
You are awesome! Thank you so much for sharing this information. After carefully watching your videos I’ve now ported 6 saws and have been very successful with the exception of one which I screwed up all by myself. Thanks brother!!!
Again, nice to know the ball park numbers along with possible ranges and characteristics on either side of the ranges. Very interesting indeed. Thank you for sharing. TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙
Awesome 😊
Thanks 😊
Now , about the other little tricks😊
Thank you sir!!! This is some super information. 👍
First, woohoo. Like these videos as it gives me a good idea of where to start
I have an 036 oem cylinder that has 159 intake duration stock which I thought was a lot. I opened up the lower transfers, raised and widened exhaust, and Hyway pop up piston. 18 thou squish with no gasket and has 185lbs compression, runs so well and isn’t finicky to tune. With an 18” bar it will outcut most stock 70cc saws. Cool video tinman
Getting ready to do one myself. What timing numbers did you end up with?
@@grayhawk-bh6bw 160 intake 101 exhaust. Couple small videos of it running on my TH-cam channel
Thank you sir 👌
Thanks Tinman. 👍
Great breakdown on durations! Thank you Tinnman
Thanks Tinman for all of this work and info. I’ve been watching and reading everything on power saws after playing and catching the bug. Diesel mechanic by trade so this is quite the change, if it wasn’t for guys like you helping us out the curve would be quite steeper.
Professor, you da man. Thanks for the extra effort in detail and comparison. My saws are running great because of your channel. My 630 Jred was out of use for a long time. You should see it go now. Thanks again.
Excellent video! Definitely will use this video for future reference. Thanks Tinman.
my 38 s is at 96 you can get there quick and i did the big lower transfers and light piston , it works well , thank god i guess it;s not hard to say how did i do that, love this stuff
Great video, will help a lot of people out 👍👍
Thanks for touching on "smaller: saws. 60 is a "bigger"saw in Oklahoma.
I am all for porting your saws if you like, but I personally don't need to do it, In my part of Montana we have Spruce, pine, and such and in town where I live we have Cottonwood,Grey Poplar and ash, so there was never anything that my MS 460 wouldn't easily cut, and I was not into racing! Tin Man, I think it's great the info that you put out for everyone!
The difference in how a 460 pulls a 32-36” bar after a base gasket delete and porting job at 80/100/120-125? Absolutely incredible.
I am not pushing you to port it, as the 460 is a fantastic saw when stock. But as someone who runs long bars in TN red oak all day long? Ported saws WILL spoil you.
I only ran a 25" bar on it, but I imagine I may think differently if my situation was similar to yours?@@WildAcresFarms
@@ryanbruner8928 building a warmed up saw isn’t something that’s required. Until you run one, and get addicted to the torque and chain speed.
My work truck has an Echo 355T, Husky 346XP, 372XP, 395XP, and MS460 on it. All ported / built. I clearly have a problem.
I used to build engines in trucks I owned back in the day. Building saws has been the same fun, on the cheap. (I bought all of those saws blown-up for under $300 and repaired.)
Great vid, very helpful. Typicly, I start seeing where the bottom of the top(or only) ring, mark the bottom of the piston with a pencil and that gives me the max room to adjust. Generally Ill adjust the most from the exhaust. What do you think?
Thanks Bud!
make sure you number the video titles to have consistency. pt 1, pt 2, pt 3 etc. and add to your playlists. it makes it easier to find follow up videos later
First off I like the info in your videos. Are you in arborsite? I have a husky 288 that I have been playing with for a while. And see you have quite a few videos on them and would like make it perform the best it can.
Hi, thanks for checking out my video. I don't use any forums or Facebook these days.
Great vid
Great video Tinman! What about smaller saws and top handles in the 30-40cc range. Still about 2 degrees every 10ccs?
Hallo Tinman,
Can you do a dolmar ps 5105. I'm curious what you think of the chainsaw. And what you can add in power.
Thanks for all your videos
Great information, thanks for sharing. Do you fill gas tanks all the way or leave air gap? Super Bowl?
Tin man! Rebuilding my 362, piston was junk but the cylinder is salvageable. Going to try my hand at widening up the ports without messing with the timing numbers. Will that work or is it more effort than it’s worth?
Like it👍
Can we apply these concept to our 2 stroke (120cc) motorcycle ? Or this is only for 2t saws ?
Great video how much material is removed to to gain 1 degree
That's a great question, 1 degree varies by how long you saws stroke is and where in the stroke you are measuring the timing.
Does adding a pop up piston change how far you can go on the intake due to the extra compression
Another home run
Never knew there was so many adjustments and modifications one could do on a chainsaw 😢
I have to Magnum 038
Ain’t got no gas in it. Mmhhmmm
Just timed my hyway 52mm 372. No basegasket and it has got 180* of intake duration. That seems wild to me.
Rest of the numbers go as follows.
Ex open 101* ATDC
156* duration
Int open 72* ABDC
180* duration
Transfer open 136* ATDC
108* duration
Blowdown at 25*
Check again your numbers, you have an intake duration of 144 (72*2)
You could have a few race saws. look how many saws you have! Maybe you might learn something that would apply to your work saws if u did a few race saws?
How did you modify the clutch to compensate for the higher RPM?
You cam drill them to decrease the weight which will usually increase the rpm before engagement.
Or shorten the spring which gives it more force and increases the rpm before engagement once again
.
That’s what I figured. Never thought about it until I watched this video.
But makes sense.
Good to know if you ever go a little too far on intake.
Thanks Tinman.
How's the Tinman and family
562,what time numbers do you recommend
*PromoSM* 😎
Hey Tinnman I need some guidance. Can I get your email address please
Yesterday I tested my first modified cylinder on a 372. It's a Chinese cylinder. The numbers turned out like this:
Squish 0.02
Intake -82 (164)
E-98 (164)
TR-122
Blowdown 24
I started it on 92 gasoline. While I was setting it up, I felt unstable behavior of the motor. As a result, it was pulled up and the cylinder was thrown into the trash. He never saw the tree!
Now I'm trying to understand what was the reason? Low octane gasoline or too high intake duration 164?